Yup he has a good system. I got and old 350 motor that’s all togeather just wondering if the procedure would be the same. I only got it going once been sitting for months.
Absolutely the best way to adjust valves. After taking my 1972 Chevy PU The to the show 3 times this video help me fix it under two hours. Spread the word and help get this video out there. 👍👍👍 Ken
Very Informative video. I never actually figured that turning the block over in quarter increments would work just the same! Also to note, for all those that might think a Haynes Shop manual is only for "stock" blocks, clearly even after modified they still serve an awesome purpose!
thank you!!!!!!! dry lifters i made the mistake of soaking my new lifters did the rotate and then after a few days note i am still building my engine,i found i had to adjust them again loose rockers and push rods they bleed down,long story short adjust them dry do what you said but dry
@AnthonyJ350 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Do you recommend something other? My setup was actually different than yours here so I’m not sure I can adjust the lash. I’m a newb here, learning as I go. It’s a 65 fleetwood with the 429 running a Holley sniper.
Great video Anthony! Question...how tight is the center bolt before you start to tighten the polylocks? Do they get retightenend during your 1/4 turn engine revolutions? I'll be installing a full set of 1.5 rockers in my 327 sbc.
Thanks for watching! The center bolts are only as tight till the push rod stops twisting between your fingers. You leave the polylocks till the end after you ensured you've taken out all the play.
I have a Chevy 350 Motor and I did not start it for 3 weeks which is plenty of time for the Oil to bleed out of the hydraulic Lifters. I went around 3 times. Just exactly Like you said to do. Went to start the motor and it would not roll over. It was to tight. So I back all of them off 1 1/2 turn. Now it turns over but won’t start????
Hi Anthony, Nice tutorial , I have a quick question about GM 5.7 L V8 Vortex engine it starts and drives good no valves noise but after 30-35 minutes of driving I can hear valve knocking continuously. After it cools down it works fine, Is this an indication that the valve lash need to be adjusted . Thank you
@@AnthonyJ350 Its a 2000 has 200050 miles and it does sound like a sewing machine , oil is 5W-30 . when it starts knocking I just force it to a higher RPM and the knocking will stop . it doesn't do the knocking at idle . Its been a mystery to me for a long time.
Hey Anyhony. Good video but I was wondering if you loosened the set screws on the poly locks before you tightened up each poly lock ? Doesn't look like you loosened the set screws. Isn't bad to keep tightening the poly locks if you have not loosened the set screw ? I would think you could possibly damage them that way.
I did mention it in the video. My valve adjustment actually backed off from the original motor build after the break in. So I was basically putting it back to where it was originally.
I stopped as soon as I felt resistance and it couldn't spin in my fingers. Also keep in mind I'm not applying much force at all to make them spin between my fingers.
You think a valve is staying open? I'm not an engine builder but it couldn't definitely cause some issues if all the valves aren't opening and closing the same.
What I'm thinking is that The valve isn't closing all the way which is leading to backfires. I'm really not sure I just 5 minutes ago pulled the heads off my engine and and number 3 and 5 cylinder has no carbon on it at all it's like they're not firing they're not fire firing.
@@AnthonyJ350 Because they can still twist freely even with pressing the plunger down, so it's an inaccurate way to get to zero lash. The vertical play between the pushrod and the rocker arm is all you should be concerned with.
@@AnthonyJ350 I saw his video before I saw yours, and I like it, but I would eliminate the part about spinning the pushrod. Zero lash is all you're concerned about. Spinning the pushrod until you feel resistance is inaccurate and not always reliable.
If I may..... this video is demonstrating how to adjust the depth of the cam follower (aka lifter) plunger....... At 1:37 into the video, Anthony is demonstrating how the cam foller should be at Base Circle when making the adjustment. Anthony lost me after he said that he could go down one side and adjust all rocker arm nuts. That info is simply incorrect! In order to use the tried and proven , we will start at # 1 cylinder @ TDC on the Compression Stroke. Both intake and exhaust cam follower plungers can be set at this point. Next, rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees. This brings the next cylinder in the firing order (#8 for the SBC) up to TDC C/S. Again, both intake and exhaust will now be adjusted. Next, rotate the crankshaft another 90 degrees, and the next cylinder in the firing order will be ready to adjust. Continue doing this right down the firing order, stoping at each 90 degrees and adjusting, and then continue until you reach # 1 again. Now you are finished. At 9:50, and for a mechanical system, the feeler gauge is inserted between the rocker arm roller and the valve stem..... not the spring.
A lot more narration and zero cheesy background music. We came here to learn. I think that was your intention, to teach. Not run a dance club. Also work in such a way that the camera can see exactly what you are doing. Lots of footage of your forearm and elbow. How about start at the back and work towards the front on both sides. Turn it 1/4 turn and go around again. Do this 8 times. Kinda repetitive on camera but it drills it into the students head.
You will never get it accurate like that. As the lifter pumps up and bleeds off. You could have one turned .100 and another .010. You have to find the base of the cam, loosen the poly lock until the lifter print returns all the way up. Slowly tight the poly by hand until you feel the push rod start to move then back off to zero lash. Then apply the manufacturer recommended preload. You could hang valves open that way and making it way to complicated.
Check out the "Ellison Technique" here: ruclips.net/video/5EGlb_VpTAw/видео.html
Yup he has a good system. I got and old 350 motor that’s all togeather just wondering if the procedure would be the same. I only got it going once been sitting for months.
Absolutely the best way to adjust valves. After taking my 1972 Chevy PU The to the show 3 times this video help me fix it under two hours. Spread the word and help get this video out there.
👍👍👍 Ken
Glad the video helped you!
Very Informative video. I never actually figured that turning the block over in quarter increments would work just the same! Also to note, for all those that might think a Haynes Shop manual is only for "stock" blocks, clearly even after modified they still serve an awesome purpose!
Thanks for watching Rocco!
thank you!!!!!!! dry lifters i made the mistake of soaking my new lifters did the rotate and then after a few days note i am still building my engine,i found i had to adjust them again loose rockers and push rods they bleed down,long story short adjust them dry do what you said but dry
Let us know how it goes after you fire it up!
Going to try this tomorrow! Will report back
Let us know thank you. What oil are you running?
@AnthonyJ350 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Do you recommend something other? My setup was actually different than yours here so I’m not sure I can adjust the lash. I’m a newb here, learning as I go. It’s a 65 fleetwood with the 429 running a Holley sniper.
Thank you this video helped me out with my 90😁
Glad the video helped! How does it run?
Great video Anthony! Question...how tight is the center bolt before you start to tighten the polylocks? Do they get retightenend during your 1/4 turn engine revolutions? I'll be installing a full set of 1.5 rockers in my 327 sbc.
Thanks for watching! The center bolts are only as tight till the push rod stops twisting between your fingers. You leave the polylocks till the end after you ensured you've taken out all the play.
How do you ensure the hydraulic lifters are not pumped up with oil? Just let the engine sit for a while? How long?
Let it sit overnight or a day
I have a Chevy 350 Motor and I did not start it for 3 weeks which is plenty of time for the Oil to bleed out of the hydraulic Lifters. I went around 3 times. Just exactly Like you said to do. Went to start the motor and it would not roll over. It was to tight. So I back all of them off 1 1/2 turn. Now it turns over but won’t start????
Ya the rockers only need tightening if too loose. Do you have spark from the distributor?
Hi Anthony,
Nice tutorial , I have a quick question about GM 5.7 L V8 Vortex engine it starts and drives good no valves noise but after 30-35 minutes of driving I can hear valve knocking continuously. After it cools down it works fine, Is this an indication that the valve lash need to be adjusted .
Thank you
How much mileage, what year is the vehicle, and what kind of oil are your using? Does it kind of sound like a sewing machine?
@@AnthonyJ350 Its a 2000 has 200050 miles and it does sound like a sewing machine , oil is 5W-30 . when it starts knocking I just force it to a higher RPM and the knocking will stop . it doesn't do the knocking at idle . Its been a mystery to me for a long time.
@@maxsmith2320 Might be noise from the lifters. This video might help ruclips.net/video/zVjVAAikdYc/видео.html
@@maxsmith2320 Here is the follow up video ruclips.net/video/IgoLVNby9dg/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you
Did you loosen all the rockers first or just start from where it was previously
I just start from where they were. They just seemed they backed off a little. The motor is fresh.
Will this method work on a stock 305 crossfire engine?
Are hydraulic lifters installed?
@AnthonyJ350 not sure it's bone stock 305 crossfire
@@AnthonyJ350 looked it up on rock auto... they seem to be hydraulic flat.. stock
Isn't it still supposed to be a little loose to allow for thermal expansion? Too tight the valve won't fully seat right?
That's why you stop when you feel friction. If you applied more force you could still twist them.
Truck sounds great
Thanks Jason!
I agree
Hey Anyhony. Good video but I was wondering if you loosened the set screws on the poly locks before you tightened up each poly lock ? Doesn't look like you loosened the set screws. Isn't bad to keep tightening the poly locks if you have not loosened the set screw ? I would think you could possibly damage them that way.
I did mention it in the video. My valve adjustment actually backed off from the original motor build after the break in. So I was basically putting it back to where it was originally.
Dang, I can't do this process when the engine is warm?
You don't want the lifters pressurized with oil.
Great video! When you adjust, does the pushrod spin at all to get zero lash? Or is it firm and not able to be spun with your fingers?
I stopped as soon as I felt resistance and it couldn't spin in my fingers. Also keep in mind I'm not applying much force at all to make them spin between my fingers.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you
@@SirGuidemere91 Your welcome, let us know how it works out after.
What name brand and size cam?sounds good!!!
Comp Cams Duration: 218 Intake 224 Exhaust
So if your lifters were out of zero lash, would that cause some cylinders to run hotter? Great video. 👽
You think a valve is staying open? I'm not an engine builder but it couldn't definitely cause some issues if all the valves aren't opening and closing the same.
Why do you think that?
What I'm thinking is that The valve isn't closing all the way which is leading to backfires. I'm really not sure I just 5 minutes ago pulled the heads off my engine and and number 3 and 5 cylinder has no carbon on it at all it's like they're not firing they're not fire firing.
You shouldn't twist the pushrods. Just check up & down movement of the rocker arm (ignore side-to-side movement) for zero lash before adding pre-load.
Why can't you twist them?
@@AnthonyJ350 Because they can still twist freely even with pressing the plunger down, so it's an inaccurate way to get to zero lash. The vertical play between the pushrod and the rocker arm is all you should be concerned with.
@@Thirdgen83 We were checking for that but waiting till we felt drag while twisting to determine if they're all being tightened the same
Here's the gentleman that came up with it. Watch the whole video ruclips.net/video/5EGlb_VpTAw/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 I saw his video before I saw yours, and I like it, but I would eliminate the part about spinning the pushrod. Zero lash is all you're concerned about. Spinning the pushrod until you feel resistance is inaccurate and not always reliable.
Vortec head install now I have a high idle,1500 to 2000 rpm
Is it fuel injected or carbureted?
@@AnthonyJ350 Carb,650 street demon
@@Mejia.Gideon Did you try adjusting the idle set screw?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes,I screwed it all the way out,no change in rpms
@@Mejia.Gideon Is there tension on the throttle cable? Or can you easily disconnect the throttle cable to make sure that's not the issue?
Thank You!!
Thanks for watching!
If I may..... this video is demonstrating how to adjust the depth of the cam follower (aka lifter) plunger.......
At 1:37 into the video, Anthony is demonstrating how the cam foller should be at Base Circle when making the adjustment.
Anthony lost me after he said that he could go down one side and adjust all rocker arm nuts.
That info is simply incorrect!
In order to use the tried and proven , we will start at # 1 cylinder @ TDC on the Compression Stroke.
Both intake and exhaust cam follower plungers can be set at this point.
Next, rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees.
This brings the next cylinder in the firing order (#8 for the SBC) up to TDC C/S.
Again, both intake and exhaust will now be adjusted.
Next, rotate the crankshaft another 90 degrees, and the next cylinder in the firing order will be ready to adjust.
Continue doing this right down the firing order, stoping at each 90 degrees and adjusting, and then continue until you reach # 1 again.
Now you are finished.
At 9:50, and for a mechanical system, the feeler gauge is inserted between the rocker arm roller and the valve stem..... not the spring.
Thanks for the feedback!
A lot more narration and zero cheesy background music. We came here to learn. I think that was your intention, to teach. Not run a dance club. Also work in such a way that the camera can see exactly what you are doing. Lots of footage of your forearm and elbow. How about start at the back and work towards the front on both sides. Turn it 1/4 turn and go around again. Do this 8 times. Kinda repetitive on camera but it drills it into the students head.
Thanks for the feedback
Does this technique work on solid rocker arms?
You'll probably have to use a feeler gauge to set the lash.
That trucks starts up faster than Sonic The Hedgehog.
Thanks for watching!
Lash is the up and down play of the pushrod not the spin of said pushrod. You most likely made it too tight and cause other problems.
Thanks for the feedback
Most likely? Or you can verify that?
You will never get it accurate like that. As the lifter pumps up and bleeds off. You could have one turned .100 and another .010. You have to find the base of the cam, loosen the poly lock until the lifter print returns all the way up. Slowly tight the poly by hand until you feel the push rod start to move then back off to zero lash. Then apply the manufacturer recommended preload. You could hang valves open that way and making it way to complicated.
Thanks for the feedback
Not clear at all I got lost at the pass
You can watch this video ruclips.net/video/5EGlb_VpTAw/видео.html