Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs. This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional. All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that! Do it the right way! Great video!
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!
your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other RUclips instructors need to learn a lesson from this man. If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed. Step by step instructions and great visual information. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
I learned how to adjust valves by reading my old chiltons repair manual. Any chiltons or hays manual works fine. I follow the instructions and the order it says to follow. I run through twice to make sure I didn’t miss any. And I install the intake and valve covers. I never have to make an adjustment. I always do this with the intake off. I watch the pushrod contact with the lifter plunger. I watch to see when the pushrod makes initial contact and can watch the plunger move. As soon as the pushrod makes contact with the plunger, I tighten the rocker a half turn and I’m done and move to the next valve. Gm never ran the valves hot, and never had to readjust the valves when these engines were assembled. This method has worked every time. The only time you have to pull a valve cover is if there is an issue or something is wrong.
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
Yes I agree spinning the pushrod is a good way to check for zero lash but I adjust all the valves that are closed on number one then rotate to number six compression and adjust the rest it's worked for me for about 45 years and hasn't failed yet.
I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster
The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate. He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.
@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
you got something else going on there We have adjusted this way for 35+ years with zero problems either you didn't follow this correctly or you have engine problems
I'm done a tons of gm small block I'm always using push rod turning method then runs the way they shut with no problems we all have different ways to do but it's good video for begginers
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
Thank you. I have a 288 480 cam. I can just twist the push rods. Lifters have been soaked and motor has been run. For a short period of time. From what I'm gathering from you is. If I'm thinking right or understanding you is I still need to go a half a turn????
good video I learned this after many frustrating years doing it like i was taught (the wrong way) whats better yet on new builds I mark bottom centerline on each lobe before installing cam then look through lifter bore for mark, lube lifter, install and adjust, move to next mark do same.
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
I did your the second method, since I have a roller cam, after I was done I turned the engine on, however, I have now a clanking sound which seems to come from one of the valve covers. What could have caused this 😣. Did I do something wrong?
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
I have a question? I have a 73 Nova and will be putting on a better set of heads. I know I will have to readjust the lifters when I put new heads on. I take it this way of adjusting them will not work it only works on new unused lifters?
Great instructions for the balancer with the 90 degree marks, if you don’t have the marks you can watch the running mates and go through the firing order to find tdc
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
I got a question I just replaced my rocker arms and pushrods when I get zero lash and quarter turn are you able to push down on it and have that cushion spring back like or is that too loose?
Hi there, I looked on the car manual and it says to use the spin method, is that effect the install , my car has a new head gasket, oil pump and rocker arm.
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....
Hi will this method work for roller cam/hydraulic roller lifters? I am going to put a retro fit roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters on my 73 Nova..
Hi thanks for the video, i have the same 327 in my vette, i on hydraulic lifter, i did exactly what you have shown and they are much more quiet but still to much i think at idle !! any advice
Great video. I have a question. When doing this on a new engine. Should you pump up the lifters with oil before adjusting, or do you want to adjust with them dry ? It maybe a stupid question, but I just want to verify. Thank you for your time.
I have a 327 with a mild cam in it, and camel hump heads, and this motor was my dads for a 63 vett but when he passed away it didn't get ran. I have got it back going but now I have a lifter ticking and the engine shakes a lot. Should I pull the lifter out let them drain and start over with this method? By the way this motor has no miles on it just me running it up to temp to keeps things from going bad.
I know this is an old video , I've aways adjusted my valves this way .What do you think of all the videos that say start anywhere nd take out the lash , rotate 90 degrees and do it again . Rotate and repeat ?
Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.
if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.
He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
Awesome video just what I needed ...I have a GM 304 V8 very similar engine same hydraulic setup saw rockers I have the manual and has nothing like this in it .. has torque specs? Do these come loose if not torqued or Cheers thanks heaps
On a stock application, could you not just start at tdc 1, adjust that cylinder, then go down each bank and rotate until the next cylinder is on the base circle of the cam and just go down the line?
yes but it will require you to rotate the crank alot more times I don't like that because the more you rotate it the more assembly lube your wiping off the cam
@@Myvintageiron7512 mine would be for an engine that's already been going. Would that be an issue? I have an 89 vette that I'm doing some maintenance on before I move, the ne house doesn't have a garage yet
4 года назад
I have a 400 SBC block that i want to build a 377 from. Do you have any experience with this type of destroking an engine and what are some ways would you go about it? I know many guys just use a 350 crank but I am not really to impressed with the idea of using bearing spacers on the mains to use the smaller journal crank. Does anyone make a large journal 350 stock stroke crank? Also I'm not sure which rod length should be used. I have seen both 5.7 and 6 inch rods mentioned in other builds. Can you give me a few of your thoughts on a build like this.
the use of a 350 crank is a thing of the past, just buy a 377 rotating assembly from Eagle get it balanced and put er togather no clearencing required a 377 is a great engine big rev's big power do me a favor and don't put a set of crappy factory heads on it get something cool like trick flow or AFR and you will have yourself a real screamer
1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, full turn for adjusting preload. I heard 3 different ways from other builders. Which is the best? Once the preload is set do you operate the oil pump to pump up the lifters?
My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.
@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!
@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.
exhaust just starts to open adjust intake. intake just closes, adjust exhaust. its a lot easier and faster. it works on any engine, hydraulic or solid. any number of cylinders.
I'm just getting around to installing my 1998 062 vortec heads on my old Stock 1982 Chevy 350 engine... I want to update my hydraulic lifters...do I buy them to fit my 82 350 Block or the 1998 062 chevy 350 Vortec heads ?
The best teacher on the Avondale campus I learned a lot from you Torres you are the man !!
Probably the Easiest method for Beginners!! Thanks for sharing!!
Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs.
This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional.
All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that!
Do it the right way!
Great video!
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
Thanks
@@Myvintageiron7512 aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa@aaaaaa@a@@a@@@a@@@AA@@a@AA@@a@a@a@@@@@@@@@@@â
@@Myvintageiron7512
No.
Thank you. You have great helpful content :)
I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!
your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
This won't work with a big roller
Thats how Ive done it for 40 yrs and don't know why anybody would do it any other way unless they just love all that extra turning of the crank..
@@georgealmeida7382 right idiots
@@georgealmeida7382 does this work on a 5.3
L
This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other RUclips instructors need to learn a lesson from this man.
If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
What an amazing explanation! I've never heard it explained any better. You sir, win. I learned so much from this .. thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
I’m old school,after watching your video, I feel real comfortable in adjusting the valves on my 74’ Corvette ! Thanks
Thank you for a well explained video on how to adjust valves I realized what I did wrong watching you thank you so much
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed.
Step by step instructions and great visual information.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
Thank You
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
Thanks!
I learned how to adjust valves by reading my old chiltons repair manual. Any chiltons or hays manual works fine. I follow the instructions and the order it says to follow. I run through twice to make sure I didn’t miss any. And I install the intake and valve covers. I never have to make an adjustment.
I always do this with the intake off. I watch the pushrod contact with the lifter plunger. I watch to see when the pushrod makes initial contact and can watch the plunger move.
As soon as the pushrod makes contact with the plunger, I tighten the rocker a half turn and I’m done and move to the next valve.
Gm never ran the valves hot, and never had to readjust the valves when these engines were assembled. This method has worked every time. The only time you have to pull a valve cover is if there is an issue or something is wrong.
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
I never heard this before and I am 80. If you read enough you learn something new everyday. Thanks I will try this next time.
Watching this vid I have learned a lot. How to adjust the valve train on a small block Chevy. Very good demonstration.
Exhaust opening, Intake Closing. Never failed me yet. Great, clear, concise video.
Perfect....always remember boys, most dirt gets into your engine from your tools....make sure your sockets, up inside, are clean😎
GREAT video. I've always spun the pushrod with two fingers. Good to learn new tricks!
Wow this man is awesome ! Literally best lesson i have ever seen .
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
I learn so much from your videos. Have rebuild my first sbc with your videos! Thanks!
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
Best video I've found so far showing this! Been trying to find something as clear and simply put so i can get my old sbc dialed in.
Here is an easier way. I went 40 years doing it the hard way until I found this. ruclips.net/video/5EGlb_VpTAw/видео.html
Yes I agree spinning the pushrod is a good way to check for zero lash but I adjust all the valves that are closed on number one then rotate to number six compression and adjust the rest it's worked for me for about 45 years and hasn't failed yet.
I have never set valve lash before but you explained perfectly so even I could do. I'm going to go do it right now .
I did it with no issues, thanks a lot 👍👍👍
Perfect explanation and helped me a lot! Greetings from Germany
I have found that your method is the best way, by far. Good job man nice pointers. Good luck in the future.
I appreciate that!
I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster
The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate.
He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.
@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
I always verify compression TDC by watching the lifters. If intake closes just before TDC, then, at TDC, you are on compression.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
This tutorial made my engine run like shit bog, and now ive developed a ticking noise thanks
you got something else going on there We have adjusted this way for 35+ years with zero problems either you didn't follow this correctly or you have engine problems
I have my intake on@@Myvintageiron7512
You are helping me out tremendously brotha thank you.
Glad to help
We can clearly see why youre an instructor at UTI. I almost went there as a high school graduate. I regret not going everyday 🙏💪😎👍🍀🌅🌆
Finally someone that knows what they are talking about!
This is pure gold I appreciate this so much !!!!!!!
you are a great instructor....plain and simple.
Yu CB
I'm done a tons of gm small block I'm always using push rod turning method then runs the way they shut with no problems we all have different ways to do but it's good video for begginers
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
Flat tappet hydraulic or solid? If it's hydraulic it's probably so the valves close more reliably
Great video! Same procedure on hydraulic lifter kohler engines. You got a sub from me!
Hi thanks for the video. Is this method the same either the plunger has leaked down or is it pumped up? Thanks!
Great, clear instructions, simple to follow, we're doing a friends 350 sbc atm. Appreciate your video's. 👍👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
Great video and explanation! Saved me today during a total brainfart!
Great to hear!
Thank you. I have a 288 480 cam. I can just twist the push rods. Lifters have been soaked and motor has been run. For a short period of time. From what I'm gathering from you is. If I'm thinking right or understanding you is I still need to go a half a turn????
After 0 lash yes
@@Myvintageiron7512 it sure does have a sweet sound. Thanks a bunch. God bless.
Awesome video!! I am going to install a Edelbrock top end kit on my 350.
good video I learned this after many frustrating years doing it like i was taught (the wrong way) whats better yet on new builds I mark bottom centerline on each lobe before installing cam then look through lifter bore for mark, lube lifter, install and adjust, move to next mark do same.
Love binge watching your videos. Thank you for sharing you knowledge and making it easy to understand.
I love your videos , you rascal Keep em’ comin
VERY HELPFUL VIDEO NICE WORK 👍👍👍
Blaspheme! A red block? What? Lol I haven't even watched yet, but great vid. You always teach me well and are highly effective.
Glad you enjoyed!
I love your videos, Keep them coming.
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
Extremely helpful, easy to understand. Thanks
On a running motor which has ticking sound do you adjust the same way.
I did your the second method, since I have a roller cam, after I was done I turned the engine on, however, I have now a clanking sound which seems to come from one of the valve covers. What could have caused this 😣. Did I do something wrong?
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
I have a question? I have a 73 Nova and will be putting on a better set of heads. I know I will have to readjust the lifters when I put new heads on. I take it this way of adjusting them will not work it only works on new unused lifters?
no it will work no problem
Great instructions for the balancer with the 90 degree marks, if you don’t have the marks you can watch the running mates and go through the firing order to find tdc
Lunch can wait. I'm gonna watch your vid first. #knowledgeispower
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
I have the other timing tab with the tube and small scale before it,can I install the other tab like you have or how do I do it?
are there other cylinders that you can lash at the same time as you do cylinder #1?
Quick question.... Do you adjust hyd roller lifters the same way with lash and preload?
Excellent video, very clear in your instructions as always.
Cheers
Great Video I have a question with the dry lifters wouldn't they collapse do to the valve spring pressure as you go though the 1/4 turns
I was thinking of buying 383 storker kit for my 1997 k1500 I am keeping the bore size standard size what do you think sir?
Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
I’d work for you any day sir. Thank you for the free knowledge
You explain things very well..And you know your sh**......Keep the good build videos coming!!
I got a question I just replaced my rocker arms and pushrods when I get zero lash and quarter turn are you able to push down on it and have that cushion spring back like or is that too loose?
id go a half turn the lifter should have give unless its pumped up with oil
Hi there, I looked on the car manual and it says to use the spin method, is that effect the install , my car has a new head gasket, oil pump and rocker arm.
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....
Hi will this method work for roller cam/hydraulic roller lifters? I am going to put a retro fit roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters on my 73 Nova..
Hi thanks for the video, i have the same 327 in my vette, i on hydraulic lifter, i did exactly what you have shown and they are much more quiet but still to much i think at idle !! any advice
turn the radio up and drive it
With a small cam, can you use the method where you do all the cylinders at TDC #1 twice?
Thanks for the training info, learned allot.
I have a question about my rockernuts, when I get 0 lash the nuts are basically at the top of the studs is caused of a bent valve or bent pushrod
Can you put a spark plug in #1 to ensure that you are @ TDC, snug will work, correct? both lifters are down in their bore...
Great video. Keep them coming!
Thank you for making this video.
Great video. I have a question. When doing this on a new engine. Should you pump up the lifters with oil before adjusting, or do you want to adjust with them dry ? It maybe a stupid question, but I just want to verify. Thank you for your time.
do it dry
Will using the spin method instead of up and down cause spark plugs to foul weekly?
no
I have a 327 with a mild cam in it, and camel hump heads, and this motor was my dads for a 63 vett but when he passed away it didn't get ran. I have got it back going but now I have a lifter ticking and the engine shakes a lot. Should I pull the lifter out let them drain and start over with this method? By the way this motor has no miles on it just me running it up to temp to keeps things from going bad.
I know this is an old video , I've aways adjusted my valves this way .What do you think of all the videos that say start anywhere nd take out the lash , rotate 90 degrees and do it again . Rotate and repeat ?
it works either way I just think the method I did her is way less work
thank you for dumbing it down with lash and overall explanation. do you have a link for aftermarket balancer ? thanks again
I found it looks like " pro street "
Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.
if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.
He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
Awesome video just what I needed ...I have a GM 304 V8 very similar engine same hydraulic setup saw rockers I have the manual and has nothing like this in it .. has torque specs? Do these come loose if not torqued or
Cheers thanks heaps
Glad it helped
do the lifters need to be primed with oil before installing them or are they dry inside lifter?
no
On a stock application, could you not just start at tdc 1, adjust that cylinder, then go down each bank and rotate until the next cylinder is on the base circle of the cam and just go down the line?
yes but it will require you to rotate the crank alot more times I don't like that because the more you rotate it the more assembly lube your wiping off the cam
@@Myvintageiron7512 mine would be for an engine that's already been going. Would that be an issue? I have an 89 vette that I'm doing some maintenance on before I move, the ne house doesn't have a garage yet
I have a 400 SBC block that i want to build a 377 from. Do you have any experience with this type of destroking an engine and what are some ways would you go about it? I know many guys just use a 350 crank but I am not really to impressed with the idea of using bearing spacers on the mains to use the smaller journal crank. Does anyone make a large journal 350 stock stroke crank? Also I'm not sure which rod length should be used. I have seen both 5.7 and 6 inch rods mentioned in other builds. Can you give me a few of your thoughts on a build like this.
the use of a 350 crank is a thing of the past, just buy a 377 rotating assembly from Eagle get it balanced and put er togather no clearencing required a 377 is a great engine big rev's big power do me a favor and don't put a set of crappy factory heads on it get something cool like trick flow or AFR and you will have yourself a real screamer
1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, full turn for adjusting preload. I heard 3 different ways from other builders. Which is the best? Once the preload is set do you operate the oil pump to pump up the lifters?
I`m old school I get zero up and down lash. rotate 90 deg 3 times. then 1/.2 turn on all. done..
My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.
if the lifter is bled down you will be half way down the plunger travel before it stops spinning
@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!
@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.
After valve lashing and giving it the 1/2 or 3/4 turn, Should the pushrods be able to twist by hand or should the pushrod be tight?
it doesn't matter
Great Vid, perfect timing, We are at this stage right now!! What is the story on the intake gaskets being held in place with studs? Thanks!
exhaust just starts to open adjust intake. intake just closes, adjust exhaust. its a lot easier and faster. it works on any engine, hydraulic or solid. any number of cylinders.
I'm just getting around to installing my 1998 062 vortec heads on my old Stock 1982 Chevy 350 engine... I want to update my hydraulic lifters...do I buy them to fit my 82 350 Block or the 1998 062 chevy 350 Vortec heads ?
are you changing the cam?
@@Myvintageiron7512
No I'll be using the same old Flat tappet cam. Thanks !