Flat Tappet cam break in the right way Recommended Lifters #1 Competition cams #2 Howards #3 Sealed power/Mahle/Clevite I have used all these of these brands with absolutely zero failures
I am 68 years old. Been a auto mech since I was drawing Ed Roth pics on my notebooks in elementary school, Norfolk State auto tech major, Chevy dealer mech, Lincoln Tech, Gas Station, construction mech, U.S. Army, Dept. Of Defense, drag racing but you Professor tell it the best and precise as it should be taught!!!!
I recently have fallen down your rabbit hole and I have to say...I don't think I've seen any series of videos that are so well done, so informative and so obviously you are THE authority. Really Really impressed. You are a teacher, well spoken and professional as well as personable. I applaud you!
@@Myvintageiron7512 My apologies for using someone elses thread, but I wanted to tag you to make sure you got the notification. I'm about to rebuild the 350 in my '93 GMC Sierra K1500. Very similar to this rebuild except I will using Comp Cams' XE256H flat tappet (~.450 lift, 112LSA). New Vortec heads from Clearwater and my TBI Vortec manifold from Summit should be here in Feb. I had to remove the old intake manifold to get to the top two bolts on the trans bellhousing so I could pull the engine. So I will have to install everything from the intake forward with the new engine in the truck. There is not much space in the distributor area because of the firewall and I'm not sure I will be able to put a drill on an oil priming tool and run it back there. My question is: will I be able to finish the rebuild (intake install forward) with the motor in the truck? Any pointers or things to watch out for? (I know I will need to cover up intake ports and the top of the engine in general to make sure nothing gets in there.)
I was just thinking, ironically this guy built a 77 350 into a 383 street/strip car. Except he used my tools, my money, and my hands. Long story short I’ve built a motor watching all these for an 89 RS Camaro. Thanks man you made it a lot less stressful for the average car guy.
I have to say you are the best I've seen as far as explaining what you are talking about. Youve helped me tremendously to back up slow down and get more of an idea of where I should've started at. Lol I didn't quite have the flames on the cam box yet but I was going in that direction and you asked what do your heads flow? I had to regroup at that point and think a little more and now I at least have info to draw from. I'm doing a sbc 400 in a 1988 ranger n it's gonna be interesting for sure. Thanks so much. Todd
My land lord was an motor cycle engine builder and he showed me one day how he tests every lifter with a hardness tester and he would find soft junk lifters all the time. I bet he would recommend that anybody who builds engines to do the same no matter who makes the part.
Back in the 80's I had built maybe 20 SB Chevy engines for local folks. A new guy moved in and was in his garage torquing heads on another small block (his own rebuild) and I noticed him not putting enough effort but was repeating himself. So I went over and he explained that he was a very accomplished engine builder and that torquing to 90 ft. pounds was easier if you just did 30 pounds 3 times. I gently told him how to do it right, and was able to keep from laughing till I got back home. I did end up going clear through the rebuild with him.
Its pretty funny, I was a small block kid and did all my own work. I never did anything right, but had good luck. I remember 1 night putting in a all nighter swapping engines in my truck. I was pretty tired and fired it for the first time. Kept waiting for oil to come out the pushrods, nada. I looked down and realized no oil filter on the engine. I never put it on, and had no oil in it. Lucked out and caught it before it seized. I jury rigged everything. Didn't have the money to do it right. If I junked a piston I would take a spare rod and piston from another motor, slip the old bearings on it and run it.
I work on diesel generators and marine diesel engines. In the Bahamas and other places, I put together Frankenstein engines and generators, assembled voltage regulators from electronics scavenged from a dump. And gotten "dead" engines to come back to life by using methods that would really freak out the people that designed those engines. I have used and reconditioned parts that would have been thrown out if other parts were available. Most mechanics in the U.S, don't have the opportunity to improvise and solve real world problems with what happens to be available. This type of problem solving is the best possible training.
I make my living as a automotive machinist and builder at a full service business, it's nice to see someone doing it the right way. Anyone watching this , it is the correct way to build a 5.7 GM.
I've been a Mechanic since age 14 when I rebuilt my first engine. A 54 Ford Y- block. Learned from an old timer who did everything old school. Worked as a heavy equipment mechanic/shift supervisor until retiring from the City of Mesa Az at age 50 after 31 years. In my time I have seen many people casually working extremely close to a rotating fan like seen in this video. Many I know have a few finger tips missing. I have all of my fingers intact. If you are new to this stuff one word of caution. Be wary of anything rotating fan blades especially. Never for one second allow yourself to be distracted. If you are distracted shut the engine off.
I was certified for 30 consecutive years ASE ! Your video was well done very informative , well explained ! I'm doing a rebuild on a 502 /8.2 Chevy Marine .
Glad to see someone properly using a torque wrench!! Holding only the handle to reach the torque spec and backing the torque wrench off to 0 when not in use! Not many know how to use and care for a torque wrench the right way to preserve your calibration.
Thanks so much for all your videos - and especially this one. I'm rebuilding my 350 chevy and wasn't aware of the lifter manufacturer thing. As fate would have, I bought the "wrong" type (non delphi). At least I have the time to get the "correct" type in before I button-up the engine & fire it up. I did get the assembly lube on all the mentioned parts and the high ZDDP break in oil (made by Lucas - hope they are good for break-in). Great tips like your experience help us "shade tree" guys who do all their own work. Thanks again! You now have a new subscriber.
Totally Awesome video, I once had a guy helping with my 78 Camaro/350 engine. Installed an aluminum intake. He did not know how to do this, because when I got home, and he was working on my car, he failed to get the timing right. My engine is bored .30, and he was confused Big time. So I had him leave, and I told my son how to setup the timing, The guy did not mark the distributor. That was the last time I had anyone help. I had surgery on my knees at the time, so I could not work on my own car at that moment.
That is awesome, I have a 350, that has been waiting for 35 years to become 😀 that!! I live close to our only engine builder!!! He does a great job for alot of dirt track drivers!!! Thanks for the video and information about SBC engines.
Well, yeah. On small block chevy the China wall gaskets are always trash and leak so we just use silicone. So yeah with sbc don't do a hot re-torque on the intake, but in general, he's right.
Thank you so much for this video. I was contemplating converting my small block Chevy in my 1971 El Camino to a roller cam; however, my engine will never develop monster amounts of power and will probably never turn over 4,000 rpm, so I will probably just get new flat tappet parts. Thank you for all of the precautions and I will heed them all. Also, thank you for the proper oil for break-in. I have always thought I would buy a Comp Cam cam/lifter set, so thank you for the reassurance about these parts. Cheers!
Been auto tech for 40years and I've built several small blocks .a couple of weeks ago Started a fresh build 350 and within 30 minutes number 1 exhaust lob was gone . CompCam Comp lifters ..... Did everything I could do for this not to happen... Customers car and engine . Out of my pocket
Nice work, and it sounds great without the mufflers. I always learn something when I watch your videos. I think the gentlemen will enjoy the performance of this build in his car.
Great video! Just what I needed as I get ready to break-in the cam/lifter kit on my 390FE. I appreciate you going over in detail on everything for us newbies.
I enjoy your videos, I’m having a pair of marine 5.7 Vortec inboards being rebuilt, I’m doing some of the work but having the blow is done and assembled and broken in by a local machine shop. I find your videos educational, informative and enjoyable to watch. If you were local I would have used you but wanted a local guy and feel comfortable with the shop I chose as they seem very knowledgeable Nd been in business once the 60’s and it’s a family run business that’s been involved in racing anyway thanks for making these videos. I find them very helpful.
I remember the first 327 SBC I rebuilt like 50 years ago, I did not have a clue what I was doing and did everything wrong! and the engine run great!! and it was powerful around 375 to 400 HP at 8000 RPM, the car was fast!
Great video. I built my first 350 watching your videos the whole way. The only thing you left out was changing the oil after break-in. Thanks for taking the time to help out this shade tree mechanic. The engine you built sounds great.
I was told in the sixties by a old old Mechanic that he always left solid lifters about 2 thousandth under spec's during initial beak in, I did for years never had a problem and drove the piss out of them. But the name of the game is zinc and non detergent oil as said.
Had an 80 Corvette with a 350. Wanted to do something simple to the engine to give it some more power. So I bought a set of 1.6:1 rocker arms and installed them thinking it will give a little more lift and thus a little more power. After I got the rockers in I noticed some of the rockers and valve train weren't moving that much. I realized the cam lobes were worn down. When I got the cam out, which was pretty easy since on the Corvette I didn't need to remove the radiator, sure enough some of the lobes were flat topped. LoL! Put a new cam and lifters in and it ran like new. If I hadn't decided to install new rockers I would have never noticed I had a problem with the cam. Would have had no reason to remove the valve covers and watch the valve train work.
Great informative video; you cover the details which most videos dont; thanks for the time you took to make this video; kept me from making a couple of mistakes !!!! Bravo !!!!
Good afternoon. I'm Albert from Aruba...and have a 350 small block in a RS Camaro 1990. I like this videos...thanks to accept me ass a member of this team.
Most old small block chevys didn't send enough oil to the lifters. Something you got to pay attention to. Your right about the chinesium lifter crisis!
Great video for a novice to learn of, very informative !! Well done . Maybe already mentioned somewhere in the comments , but when you finally drop the dizzy in after you hit the starter and it's home, another tip to should mention put your harmonic back to 10deg BTDC and line up the rotor with the mark on the body or else it would never start like this one did. Just one small tip. Cheers fro Australia
I did valve work on a 2000 Jeep L6 and decided to replace the lifters while I had access to them since one or two lifters were tapping. I did everything right while assembling and breaking in the lifters. About half the lifters were chewed up and they ate the cam. UGH!!! I appreciate the info! I have asked around to a number of auto parts suppliers and machine shop engine assemblers in the area, and they don't have the info. Now they do.
You know what you are doing. I am a 30 years licenced both class 8 and Automotive. Just makes my toes curl seeing that open fan just waiting to grab that timing light chord and take your hand off. Buddy set up an electric fan for that rad and just run the pulley on the water pump. Lost the end of my pinky on a alternator fan years ago when they were exposed. Just saying.
When I prime an engine I rotate he crank to make sure all oil ports get oil. I also set the crank pulley I where I want 1 one to fire and hook a timing light up and set the distributor to the the firing position
I've just subscribed, and have watched several of your videos. I'm not easily impressed by many people, so it's with respect that I speak my thanks for your knowledge and skills. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with others. Great video content.!!!
If you look, diesel oil has the break in additives that you are looking for and a lot cheaper. By that fact there is no reason not to run diesel oil full time for the wear additives also. I also use moly grease (molybdenumdisufide grease) on all metal to metal wear points. inexspensive also. Bearings lubed with STP.
@@jesselarson2570 Check ppm of regular oil, diesel, and manufacture break in oil. I think you will be surprised at similar additives and ppm . Diesel oil I looked up had 1100 ppm. 1000 to 1400 ppm is considered high zinc. Don't stop at 1 or 2 brands ; do several so you will have a larger group so you can see that typically diesel and break in are high in damn near every additive.im not saying you are wrong but here in southern US that seems to be.
Diesel oil is for diesel engines. And the zinc has been reduced in that as well since modern diesel trucks have catalytic converters now. Just use a zinc additive in high quality gasoline engine oil.
No ! Never. They have to be broken into a specific motor to pick up the nuances, irregularities of their new home, otherwise you would be breaking them in twice one to the manufacture home if you will, then into there new home your engine. They could be just as apt, or greater possibility of failure because of small nuances of wear patterns. Lifters always go back to specific bores of specific cam lobe, of a cam, and specific engine of initial break in, if you don't you are asking for trouble. Lifters of flat tappets cammed engines have to rotate, they have crowns on there bottoms, and have friction because of machine process, that comes in contact with a dihedral friction surface of cam lobe, and stack tolerances in bores, lifters, and lobe surface half to break in together because of spacel location.
I'm running Howard's cam roller set up and great torque and horse power. 80's was last of flat tappet sbc and was shock how oil other things changed to the worst! Great video!
Most of us don't rebuild engine , we have them machines by a shop, and use the same rings pistons rods, and lifters by who knows who they have their own suppliers . Some don't fire them ,I think they just hand rotate, an I wrong or right,also I didn't hear filling the oil filter prior to installation, please comment
I've seen them put tape on the outside of the middle of the motor were u put that silicon bead so u can remove the tape and it will look clean if it got squeezed out on the block.
So I’m nobody and have no experience, now that we got that out of the way just some advice, be careful with the silicone, their is such a thing as to much and if by chance some of that that oozes our can come loose on the inside of the engine it can be catastrophic to said engine, just keep that in mind if anything I would rather have it come to the outside of the engine then to the inside. But yes your idea makes a clean appearing build that looks more professional, again just my 2 cents.
I been using Maxima brand oil in my 2 strokes for decades! Castor 927 to be exact. Trust me, it's THE best period. Knowledge overload as usual thanks Vintage
i hope u see this!! i just bought a cam .501 lift and 280 lbs springs from summit .. can i break the cam in with those springs???? 305 sbc... please dont laugh
Good job showing telling,I have a 350 and I want to rebuild my 350 the same way. So thanks for telling showing and I’ll see ya next time see ya bye bye.
Great videos - thank you. Building my 383 and decided to go with GM OEM-style hydraulic roller lifters with a Comp Cam. The lifters are filled with some kind of fluid out-of-the-box, and are pumped up -- they don't compress. I can take them apart to drain the fluid out of them, but what a hassle. Should I just clean them in mineral spirits and oil them, or do I need to get the fluid out before installation?
It's not only the sbc lifters that have been failing, its all flat tappet engines that are seeing this issue. Many, many people have been having lifters fail during break in.
Got 1 question recently bought a topend kit for my 327 4bolt how do i adjust the valves with a new cameshaft without damaging anything? im fairly new to building engines started around a year ago buying my first V8 a 327 out of a 68 Impala
Hi, I've been watching all your videos on sbc rebuilds, thanks for the great content in your channel. I removed all the flat tappet lifters in my stock sbc 305 without taking note of their position! Redoing heads only, left the cam installed to reuse. Not a rebuild, just headwork due to leaking gasket and valve guide seals. What do I do with the lifters now?😕
Thank you, not what I hoped to hear but fair advice given you knowledge. Any recommendations on cam for a stock 305 that could use an upgrade in torque? Not a daily driver, chevy K10.
Thanks for the great video, I did a 350 last year and my cam made it for 9 min and ate 3 lobes. Second cam made it for 15 min, I am now doing a new engine for my 1980 z28 , 4speed car. 383 with scat crank , rods and kB pistons, just ordered e street heads . I was going to go with roller cam but after the 5 grand I am already in my budget is getting very low . I watched your video and I think I used the shit lifters. I know what I need to look for now , so here we go again I'll try another flat tappet cam. Comp cam Ex 284h. Thanks again for the info.
There is no reason flat tappets can't be used with good success, We do it daily, you just half to do it correctly, I am huge fan of roller cams they are better than flat tappets in every way and I always use them exclusively in my own stuff, but again when you tell people your looking at and extra $800 to $1000 to go roller they have a hard time swallowing that. I always give the roller option but I can tell you that 80% of customers take the flat tappet option
@@Myvintageiron7512 More specific question. I'm running a flat tappet cam but went with roller rockers. Should cam break in change at all as opposed to normal rockers?
Even. Rollers had an have issues. Many LS rollers have failed simply because they ramp up so quickly causing lobe wear & lifter breakage. The more radical they are the more the potential for the issue increases.
I'm with you I prefer rollers However many people do not have them in their budget your looking at $1000 to upgrade an early small block to a good roller cam The fact is on these engines the flat tappet is still by far the most common cam type used
@@Myvintageiron7512 Quick question sir I've been a fan of Crane Cams for many years what's your opinion on them?? Haven't built a small block Chevy in a while and wonder how the flat tappet hydraulic cams are holding up..thanks
Great video , I’m right about this point in my build and this was very helpful . Do you recommend changing oil right after break in to HR oil ? Or break in oil again ?
Yes change the oil right after 20 minute break in but put fresh break in oil back in for the first 500 miles then change it again using the same break in oil go another 500 miles and change to high zinc detergent based oil keep in mind there is always metel in the pan on a new engine use a magnetic drain plug and you will see it don't panic all new engines do this I had a customer with a new ZO6 and he was in a panic because his vette had metal on the magnet drain plug it's going to happen on any new engine for the first few thousand miles even with a roller cam
Hello, I am a Ford guy but just wanted to say how awesome your videos are. To see a true master machinist at work ...amazing....Anyway, please keep em coming. NIce to see REAL facts. Oh and I am watchingthis because very soon, I will be breaking in a FLAT TAPPET cam on my 66 289 (Edelbrock Cam, Edelbrock double roller chain, manifold and carb and GT40 type aluminum heads) THIS part is very interesting to me.
just use the correct oil and don't let it idle for the first 20 min watch your timing no more than 20 degrees at 2000 it will be fine ford small blocks are very stout engines they make great power with good heads and cam
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you ...your videos have been an inspiration ..my 66 is going to have a nice balance of power (about 310 when done) and handling ...But watching your videos makes me want to BUILD an engine from scratch !!! Thanks again and keep the data flowing
there is one thing about using the silicon on the intake i use the caskets with a little silicon on and in the corners never had a leak but i have seen the way u do it the silicon will flake off on the inside after few thousand miles it can plug up the oil screen seen it dun over 12 times from shops never use to much silicon bad way to go and don't care what u say i know what i have seen and three pro builders that build top fuel engines say the same thing one builder told me that he had a motor last 15 min on break in because of just what u did he said he would never do it again
Hello sir . I just broke my cam in on my sbc changed the oil with penn grade 15-40 high zinc the same as what I broke it in with. Took the Camaro out and put just under 200 miles on it , around town , highway been having fun . All of a sudden #5 exhaust bent and broke a push rod . Pulled lifter found it completely collapsed ( Delphi lifters ) Long story short can I replace just that 1 lifter with comp cams assembly lube and hi zinc oil or do I need to replace the Cam and all lifters and start over
15-40 is Synthetic mix. NEVER break in a new engine with synthetic oil. If you replace the lifter try some Isky lube and break in oil. Break it in like you're doing a new cam. 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Bad Penn straight 30wt break in!
@stardroppercj First of all, idiot. I've been building engines for 35 years. Flat tappet cams have a complely different requirement than roller cams, which have no requirements for specialized zinc packages which DON'T come in synthetics. You have no real world experience obviously.
@stardroppercj Bradd Penn is the only one with ZDDP and Zinc requirements. LOL to open a comment says everything. I'm a pilot by trade, but besides working with muscle car engines I've built many radial and v12s. I have seen many new flat tappet cams fail without the use of specialized oils like Penn Grade break in oil. That wasn't the case 25 years ago. I called what fits. You spouted stuoidity and you're full of crap.
ive recently been binge watching your videos because i got covid and i cant go anywhere for two weeks so ive been watchin you. you are extremely informative and i find your level of knowledge second to none. im gonna be doing a cam swap in my 2008 6.0 ls truck motor ive subscribed and i learned so much from you already sir .thank you so much.
I just bought a elgin cam kit for my 400. Came with lifters,valve springs and cam. I didnt notice a line on the lifters. And the package does not specify what type of lifters they are. Have you heard anything bad about the lifter that come with the Elgin cam kits? Or should I just bite the bullet and run some comp lifters.i dont know if I wanna risk it.
I really appreciate your videos.. there are a few that show pictures only, and maybe a little video, but music playing, they do not explain anything. And that is not good. Your videos are really good. I have built engines, and installed, but it is still good to watch your videos. And I know others like me do the same. Among all other videos regarding engines. yours are the best!!
Great job showing I learned a lot I did not no ,thanks for the video. Ps I’ll be watching it more because I have a 350 Chevy motor old one. So have a great time, and thanks again.
Remember how attention to detail mattered on dual pattern lash? At one point in one of my engines lives, I experimented with tighter lash in colder weather. How great thou art. McFly- "I'm your density."
40:02 a good note here for others following: Look at the distributor gear on this freeze frame. You will note the roll pin that holds the gear onto the shaft, but below that you will see a divot drilled into the gear. This divot will only be on this one side of the roll pin & this signifies where the rotor is pointing. This information can be useful should you pull a distributor out of the engine with the cap on.
One of these days I'll do a video how to set distributor and set the timing so close that you're either dead on or 1 to 2 degrees accurate. I learned this from working on VW engines valve adjustment same principle. I hardly ever have to reset the timing after I build a new engine motor. For electronic distributors the triggering points on the pickups are simple as that.
That is a really good tip to use an in/lb torque wrench. I broke an exhaust bolt because it was a fairly low torque spec and all I had was a ½" lb/ft torque wrench. I looked over at my cousin and just as I said, "This thing just keeps turning so easy and hasn't clicked...", The bolt snapped. Long story short, had to pull the head to get the bolt out properly.
That was sick. I rebuild one just like that but never knew about the lifter . ruined my project . just like u said metal shavings all in the engine. Made my exhaust manifolds turn red.
My father always had an auto repair business when i was growing up. I wanted to prove that i could build a sbc from what i had learned watching and learning from the other mechanics in the shop. So my dad let me...i was 13 yrs old. Started it up and it had 80 lbs oil pressure...i thought my sh!t didn't stink. Two days later we had to tow the car in for a no start and long story short...it was seized...i had torqued the mains to 170lbs instead of 70 lbs. Apparently i didn't know how to read the torque wrench correctly haha. But hey...i learned real quick!!!
One of the best break-in oils out there wasn't even mentioned. Penn Grade AKA Brad Penn 30WT break in oil. It's green. However, I have broke in several flat-tappet engines with heavy valve springs with no issue. I also recommend using Isky Lube on the lobes and the bottom of the tappets. Nothing worse than a tear down because of crappy oil or having to remove inner springs. You're usually fine with 100-140 on the seat and 340 open @.600 without removing the inner springs. Good video. Need to do more FE builds.
My brother Erick graduated UTI in '87. He drove down to Phoenix in a yellow '69 Ford Falcon with a guy named Gus Cordova from Oregon. My brother passed away a few years ago. Gus has his own shop in Oregon going strong. Hope your career is going good. Mick
I like putting a coat of Wolf’s Head high temp wheel bearing grease on the lifter. The assembly lube goes flying off when that cam starts spinning. You need something that will stick. Assembly lube is for rod and main bearing surfaces. Also, you are 100% correct most street use rebuilt engines don’t need roller rockers.
I couldn't agree more I almost always use Howards in my personal engines I just put a Howards big Daddy Rattler hyd roller in my 427 BB for the S-10 build
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I was a tech for 28 years, automotive instructor/trainer for 18 years. This guy should be working as an instructor. Clear precise and smart.
He is one. Ever wondered why he wears all the UTI apparel?
@@OneWayWillie oh one way, not this again.
I am 68 years old. Been a auto mech since I was drawing Ed Roth pics on my notebooks in elementary school, Norfolk State auto tech major, Chevy dealer mech, Lincoln Tech, Gas Station, construction mech, U.S. Army, Dept. Of Defense, drag racing but you Professor tell it the best and precise as it should be taught!!!!
I recently have fallen down your rabbit hole and I have to say...I don't think I've seen any series of videos that are so well done, so informative and so obviously you are THE authority. Really Really impressed. You are a teacher, well spoken and professional as well as personable. I applaud you!
wow thanks
I had you as an instructor 12 years ago, I now build engines for part of a living. Hope you're doing well Mr. Torres, great video! Subscribed!
That is awesome!
What school?
@@noahbfromthe9136 UTI in az
@@Myvintageiron7512
My apologies for using someone elses thread, but I wanted to tag you to make sure you got the notification.
I'm about to rebuild the 350 in my '93 GMC Sierra K1500. Very similar to this rebuild except I will using Comp Cams' XE256H flat tappet (~.450 lift, 112LSA). New Vortec heads from Clearwater and my TBI Vortec manifold from Summit should be here in Feb.
I had to remove the old intake manifold to get to the top two bolts on the trans bellhousing so I could pull the engine. So I will have to install everything from the intake forward with the new engine in the truck.
There is not much space in the distributor area because of the firewall and I'm not sure I will be able to put a drill on an oil priming tool and run it back there.
My question is: will I be able to finish the rebuild (intake install forward) with the motor in the truck? Any pointers or things to watch out for? (I know I will need to cover up intake ports and the top of the engine in general to make sure nothing gets in there.)
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I was just thinking, ironically this guy built a 77 350 into a 383 street/strip car. Except he used my tools, my money, and my hands. Long story short I’ve built a motor watching all these for an 89 RS Camaro. Thanks man you made it a lot less stressful for the average car guy.
To him street/strip is not a thing 😂 I agree tho
I have to say you are the best I've seen as far as explaining what you are talking about. Youve helped me tremendously to back up slow down and get more of an idea of where I should've started at. Lol I didn't quite have the flames on the cam box yet but I was going in that direction and you asked what do your heads flow? I had to regroup at that point and think a little more and now I at least have info to draw from. I'm doing a sbc 400 in a 1988 ranger n it's gonna be interesting for sure. Thanks so much. Todd
“There are only 2 brands... I’m not gonna tell you which one to avoid but I will tell you which ones to get” gold lol
I’m guessing the other brand is lunati
My land lord was an motor cycle engine builder and he showed me one day how he tests every lifter with a hardness tester and he would find soft junk lifters all the time. I bet he would recommend that anybody who builds engines to do the same no matter who makes the part.
Back in the 80's I had built maybe 20 SB Chevy engines for local folks. A new guy moved in and was in his garage torquing heads on another small block (his own rebuild) and I noticed him not putting enough effort but was repeating himself. So I went over and he explained that he was a very accomplished engine builder and that torquing to 90 ft. pounds was easier if you just did 30 pounds 3 times. I gently told him how to do it right, and was able to keep from laughing till I got back home. I did end up going clear through the rebuild with him.
Its pretty funny, I was a small block kid and did all my own work. I never did anything right, but had good luck. I remember 1 night putting in a all nighter swapping engines in my truck. I was pretty tired and fired it for the first time. Kept waiting for oil to come out the pushrods, nada. I looked down and realized no oil filter on the engine. I never put it on, and had no oil in it. Lucked out and caught it before it seized. I jury rigged everything. Didn't have the money to do it right. If I junked a piston I would take a spare rod and piston from another motor, slip the old bearings on it and run it.
Nothing wrong with that! Gotta start somewhere
I work on diesel generators and marine diesel engines. In the Bahamas and other places, I put together Frankenstein engines and generators, assembled voltage regulators from electronics scavenged from a dump. And gotten "dead" engines to come back to life by using methods that would really freak out the people that designed those engines. I have used and reconditioned parts that would have been thrown out if other parts were available. Most mechanics in the U.S, don't have the opportunity to improvise and solve real world problems with what happens to be available. This type of problem solving is the best possible training.
been there
I make my living as a automotive machinist and builder at a full service business, it's nice to see someone doing it the right way. Anyone watching this , it is the correct way to build a 5.7 GM.
I've been a Mechanic since age 14 when I rebuilt my first engine. A 54 Ford Y- block. Learned from an old timer who did everything old school. Worked as a heavy equipment mechanic/shift supervisor until retiring from the City of Mesa Az at age 50 after 31 years. In my time I have seen many people casually working extremely close to a rotating fan like seen in this video. Many I know have a few finger tips missing. I have all of my fingers intact. If you are new to this stuff one word of caution. Be wary of anything rotating fan blades especially. Never for one second allow yourself to be distracted. If you are distracted shut the engine off.
I worked as an industrial mechanic for about 8 years in my youth. The number of people I worked with who had missing digits was way too high.
I was certified for 30 consecutive years ASE !
Your video was well done very informative , well explained ! I'm doing a rebuild on a 502 /8.2 Chevy Marine .
Glad to see someone properly using a torque wrench!! Holding only the handle to reach the torque spec and backing the torque wrench off to 0 when not in use! Not many know how to use and care for a torque wrench the right way to preserve your calibration.
the little distributer trick simply turning the engine over to mesh with oil pump was very helpful, easy and effective. thank you!
Thanks so much for all your videos - and especially this one. I'm rebuilding my 350 chevy and wasn't aware of the lifter manufacturer thing. As fate would have, I bought the "wrong" type (non delphi). At least I have the time to get the "correct" type in before I button-up the engine & fire it up. I did get the assembly lube on all the mentioned parts and the high ZDDP break in oil (made by Lucas - hope they are good for break-in). Great tips like your experience help us "shade tree" guys who do all their own work.
Thanks again! You now have a new subscriber.
Totally Awesome video, I once had a guy helping with my 78 Camaro/350 engine. Installed an aluminum intake. He did not know how to do this, because when I got home, and he was working on my car, he failed to get the timing right. My engine is bored .30, and he was confused Big time. So I had him leave, and I told my son how to setup the timing, The guy did not mark the distributor. That was the last time I had anyone help. I had surgery on my knees at the time, so I could not work on my own car at that moment.
Love listening to you . You explain in a very clear and detailed way so we europeans understands . Keep it up man .
That is awesome, I have a 350, that has been waiting for 35 years to become 😀 that!! I live close to our only engine builder!!! He does a great job for alot of dirt track drivers!!! Thanks for the video and information about SBC engines.
One thing I used to do was a warm retorque on everything. Heads and intake. You'd be surprised.
U don’t retorque intakes with silicone ends because when the silicone is cured and you retorque it you’ll crack the silicone.
Well, yeah. On small block chevy the China wall gaskets are always trash and leak so we just use silicone. So yeah with sbc don't do a hot re-torque on the intake, but in general, he's right.
This clears up so many questions it's hard to digest. I have to think about this for a minute.
Thank you so much for this video. I was contemplating converting my small block Chevy in my 1971 El Camino to a roller cam; however, my engine will never develop monster amounts of power and will probably never turn over 4,000 rpm, so I will probably just get new flat tappet parts. Thank you for all of the precautions and I will heed them all. Also, thank you for the proper oil for break-in. I have always thought I would buy a Comp Cam cam/lifter set, so thank you for the reassurance about these parts. Cheers!
Been auto tech for 40years and I've built several small blocks .a couple of weeks ago Started a fresh build 350 and within 30 minutes number 1 exhaust lob was gone . CompCam Comp lifters ..... Did everything I could do for this not to happen... Customers car and engine . Out of my pocket
what oil
Nice work, and it sounds great without the mufflers. I always learn something when I watch your videos. I think the gentlemen will enjoy the performance of this build in his car.
Great video! Just what I needed as I get ready to break-in the cam/lifter kit on my 390FE. I appreciate you going over in detail on everything for us newbies.
What the hell is a 390 fe? Big block Ford ?
I enjoy your videos, I’m having a pair of marine 5.7 Vortec inboards being rebuilt, I’m doing some of the work but having the blow is done and assembled and broken in by a local machine shop. I find your videos educational, informative and enjoyable to watch. If you were local I would have used you but wanted a local guy and feel comfortable with the shop I chose as they seem very knowledgeable Nd been in business once the 60’s and it’s a family run business that’s been involved in racing anyway thanks for making these videos. I find them very helpful.
That was very educational,, at 58 yrz old,, linked with auto class in 75/76 .. thank you , from vietnam
I remember the first 327 SBC I rebuilt like 50 years ago, I did not have a clue what I was doing and did everything wrong! and the engine run great!! and it was powerful around 375 to 400 HP at 8000 RPM, the car was fast!
back then all the oil had high ZDDP in it it was pretty hard to screw it up
Great video. I built my first 350 watching your videos the whole way. The only thing you left out was changing the oil after break-in. Thanks for taking the time to help out this shade tree mechanic. The engine you built sounds great.
I was told in the sixties by a old old Mechanic that he always left solid lifters about 2 thousandth under spec's during initial beak in, I did for years never had a problem and drove the piss out of them. But the name of the game is zinc and non detergent oil as said.
Do you mean 2 thou less valve clearance?
I knew you were a fellow professional when you backed the torque wrench from your working torque setting back to zero before putting it away!
You only do that if you want the torque wrench to stay calibrated. Otherwise it is a waste of time.
You are 100% right. That's what a professional does.
@@daleeasternbrat816 So why would you not want it to stay calibrated?
@@camcamslim just a tongue in ckeek comment. I have been keeping my clickers like that since I was a kid.
And make sure you turn them to 'OFF' before putting them away.
I hope you truly realize how much you help people out who are trying to learn something that is such a great asset as this. Thank you!
your very welcome I hope it's helping
Lots of helpful tips, love to hear an episode of engine masters playing in the background hahah
Outstanding compilation video. A great refresher course since my last class in high school with the great Don Erbe , Oceanside Ca.!!!
Had an 80 Corvette with a 350. Wanted to do something simple to the engine to give it some more power. So I bought a set of 1.6:1 rocker arms and installed them thinking it will give a little more lift and thus a little more power. After I got the rockers in I noticed some of the rockers and valve train weren't moving that much. I realized the cam lobes were worn down. When I got the cam out, which was pretty easy since on the Corvette I didn't need to remove the radiator, sure enough some of the lobes were flat topped. LoL! Put a new cam and lifters in and it ran like new. If I hadn't decided to install new rockers I would have never noticed I had a problem with the cam. Would have had no reason to remove the valve covers and watch the valve train work.
Great informative video; you cover the details which most videos dont; thanks for the time you took to make this video; kept me from making a couple of mistakes !!!! Bravo !!!!
Thank you for all that you do. It helps me immensely!
Good afternoon. I'm Albert from Aruba...and have a 350 small block in a RS Camaro 1990. I like this videos...thanks to accept me ass a member of this team.
Most old small block chevys didn't send enough oil to the lifters. Something you got to pay attention to. Your right about the chinesium lifter crisis!
High volume (not to be confused with high pressure) oil pumps usually take care of that just fine.
Great video for a novice to learn of, very informative !! Well done . Maybe already mentioned somewhere in the comments , but when you finally drop the dizzy in after you hit the starter and it's home, another tip to should mention put your harmonic back to 10deg BTDC and line up the rotor with the mark on the body or else it would never start like this one did. Just one small tip. Cheers fro Australia
Really enjoy your videos. Have watched hours of them. Building a drag car. Thanks for showing us the knowledge.
I did valve work on a 2000 Jeep L6 and decided to replace the lifters while I had access to them since one or two lifters were tapping. I did everything right while assembling and breaking in the lifters. About half the lifters were chewed up and they ate the cam. UGH!!! I appreciate the info! I have asked around to a number of auto parts suppliers and machine shop engine assemblers in the area, and they don't have the info. Now they do.
Here from UNCLE TONYS GARAGE he just had the same lifter problem with his Mopar...
Uncle Tony’s Garage is a pretty good channel! I enjoy his content
I always wondered why comp cams had that ring on the lifters. This is great information, thanks for sharing!
Cool video. Thanx for posting.
Good description of everything.
Engine sounds nice.
I have got to start keeping pen and paper handy. Thanks for the free education.
You know what you are doing. I am a 30 years licenced both class 8 and Automotive. Just makes my toes curl seeing that open fan just waiting to grab that timing light chord and take your hand off. Buddy set up an electric fan for that rad and just run the pulley on the water pump. Lost the end of my pinky on a alternator fan years ago when they were exposed. Just saying.
Jason Joncas I was thinking the same thing .
I destroyed a timing light with a shrouded fan LOL
I do like the electric fan idea.
If I were there I'd paint the fan tips yellow or white so they show up better. I'm an aircraft mechanic. An electric fan is the best bet.
yes he pro but please go electric fan save your hands for future pro engine builds
What an amazing video. Now I feel like I have the confidence to build my Chevy 350 and do it right the first time. Thank you!
When I prime an engine I rotate he crank to make sure all oil ports get oil. I also set the crank pulley I where I want 1 one to fire and hook a timing light up and set the distributor to the the firing position
I've just subscribed, and have watched several of your videos. I'm not easily impressed by many people, so it's with respect that I speak my thanks for your knowledge and skills. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with others. Great video content.!!!
THX
If you look, diesel oil has the break in additives that you are looking for and a lot cheaper. By that fact there is no reason not to run diesel oil full time for the wear additives also. I also use moly grease (molybdenumdisufide grease) on all metal to metal wear points. inexspensive also. Bearings lubed with STP.
I pretty much always use diesel oil and ive never had an issue. More dinosaur bones haha
You may want to call the manufacturer of said diesel oil and ask about zinc, you will probably be suprised that diesel oil is generally low zinc.
@@jesselarson2570
Check ppm of regular oil, diesel, and manufacture break in oil. I think you will be surprised at similar additives and ppm . Diesel oil I looked up had 1100 ppm. 1000 to 1400 ppm is considered high zinc. Don't stop at 1 or 2 brands ; do several so you will have a larger group so you can see that typically diesel and break in are high in damn near every additive.im not saying you are wrong but here in southern US that seems to be.
Diesel oil is for diesel engines. And the zinc has been reduced in that as well since modern diesel trucks have catalytic converters now. Just use a zinc additive in high quality gasoline engine oil.
I've done 3 flat-tappet cam break-ins, and SO FAR, no problems.
Wouldn't it be ideal if cam manufacturers broke in the cam and lifters for you? They are the masters.
No ! Never. They have to be broken into a specific motor to pick up the nuances, irregularities of their new home, otherwise you would be breaking them in twice one to the manufacture home if you will, then into there new home your engine. They could be just as apt, or greater possibility of failure because of small nuances of wear patterns. Lifters always go back to specific bores of specific cam lobe, of a cam, and specific engine of initial break in, if you don't you are asking for trouble. Lifters of flat tappets cammed engines have to rotate, they have crowns on there bottoms, and have friction because of machine process, that comes in contact with a dihedral friction surface of cam lobe, and stack tolerances in bores, lifters, and lobe surface half to break in together because of spacel location.
Well said bear
I'm running Howard's cam roller set up and great torque and horse power. 80's was last of flat tappet sbc and was shock how oil other things changed to the worst! Great video!
i wish you where my neighbor
Most of us don't rebuild engine , we have them machines by a shop, and use the same rings pistons rods, and lifters by who knows who they have their own suppliers . Some don't fire them ,I think they just hand rotate, an I wrong or right,also I didn't hear filling the oil filter prior to installation, please comment
can I get an Amen??
@@edwardalamo2507 thats because u dont have to fill the oil filter ive seen guys do that but its not necessary
Swear to Christ I came down to the comments to say that haha
If he was my neighbor i would be broke🤣🤣
That engine sounds very very HEALTHY, GREAT EXPLANATIONS ON EVERYTHING.
I've seen them put tape on the outside of the middle of the motor were u put that silicon bead so u can remove the tape and it will look clean if it got squeezed out on the block.
So I’m nobody and have no experience, now that we got that out of the way just some advice, be careful with the silicone, their is such a thing as to much and if by chance some of that that oozes our can come loose on the inside of the engine it can be catastrophic to said engine, just keep that in mind if anything I would rather have it come to the outside of the engine then to the inside. But yes your idea makes a clean appearing build that looks more professional, again just my 2 cents.
I been using Maxima brand oil in my 2 strokes for decades! Castor 927 to be exact. Trust me, it's THE best period. Knowledge overload as usual thanks Vintage
You really need to cover the fan up so easy to get your arm in there. Or use a electric water pump and pulley system on your start up stand.
Amazing small block vortec head building knowledge
Looks like you’re the master. I’ve been taking a lot of your advice. I’m getting ready to break in a camshaft myself. Thank you for all your help.
Do a video on how to properly time a engine and the benefits of retartding and advancing the timing.
Fantastic video!!
Thank you for your time!
You are a great teacher.
I can see why you have so many followers.
Thanks
Summit lifters are made in the States. I’ve had good luck with their stuff
i hope u see this!! i just bought a cam .501 lift and 280 lbs springs from summit .. can i break the cam in with those springs???? 305 sbc... please dont laugh
have you ever broken in a cam with 280 lbs springs???? just got a cam from summit
Summit use to have the Delphi lifters in there kits Not Now
Good job showing telling,I have a 350 and I want to rebuild my 350 the same way. So thanks for telling showing and I’ll see ya next time see ya bye bye.
Great videos - thank you. Building my 383 and decided to go with GM OEM-style hydraulic roller lifters with a Comp Cam. The lifters are filled with some kind of fluid out-of-the-box, and are pumped up -- they don't compress. I can take them apart to drain the fluid out of them, but what a hassle. Should I just clean them in mineral spirits and oil them, or do I need to get the fluid out before installation?
nope just install them like they are they will be fine
It's not only the sbc lifters that have been failing, its all flat tappet engines that are seeing this issue. Many, many people have been having lifters fail during break in.
Got 1 question recently bought a topend kit for my 327 4bolt
how do i adjust the valves with a new cameshaft without damaging anything?
im fairly new to building engines started around a year ago buying my first V8 a 327 out of a 68 Impala
Just subscribed. Like the way you explain things so not the so talented wannabe mechanics like myself can understand. Thanks.
Hi, I've been watching all your videos on sbc rebuilds, thanks for the great content in your channel. I removed all the flat tappet lifters in my stock sbc 305 without taking note of their position! Redoing heads only, left the cam installed to reuse. Not a rebuild, just headwork due to leaking gasket and valve guide seals. What do I do with the lifters now?😕
You need a new cam and lifters
Thank you, not what I hoped to hear but fair advice given you knowledge. Any recommendations on cam for a stock 305 that could use an upgrade in torque? Not a daily driver, chevy K10.
Thanks for the great video, I did a 350 last year and my cam made it for 9 min and ate 3 lobes. Second cam made it for 15 min, I am now doing a new engine for my 1980 z28 , 4speed car. 383 with scat crank , rods and kB pistons, just ordered e street heads . I was going to go with roller cam but after the 5 grand I am already in my budget is getting very low . I watched your video and I think I used the shit lifters. I know what I need to look for now , so here we go again I'll try another flat tappet cam. Comp cam Ex 284h. Thanks again for the info.
also use good high zinc break in oil and dont let it idle for first 20 minutes 2000 RPM
This is Crazy....would be better if someone just named the shity lifters to save others from wasting our hard earned money......
Hydrologic roller always. We will not build any engine unless they put a roller in it. unless it’s a complete stock build.
Hydraulic?
There is no reason flat tappets can't be used with good success, We do it daily, you just half to do it correctly, I am huge fan of roller cams they are better than flat tappets in every way and I always use them exclusively in my own stuff, but again when you tell people your looking at and extra $800 to $1000 to go roller they have a hard time swallowing that.
I always give the roller option but I can tell you that 80% of customers take the flat tappet option
@@Myvintageiron7512 More specific question. I'm running a flat tappet cam but went with roller rockers. Should cam break in change at all as opposed to normal rockers?
all I got from this was push rod length can't change then ¬.^
thank you for taking the time to teach I had to watch this video two times and I'm sure I learn more if I watched it again
I’ll drop the extra couple bills and get a roller cam.
Even. Rollers had an have issues. Many LS rollers have failed simply because they ramp up so quickly causing lobe wear & lifter breakage. The more radical they are the more the potential for the issue increases.
I'm with you I prefer rollers However many people do not have them in their budget your looking at $1000 to upgrade an early small block to a good roller cam The fact is on these engines the flat tappet is still by far the most common cam type used
@@Myvintageiron7512 Quick question sir I've been a fan of Crane Cams for many years what's your opinion on them?? Haven't built a small block Chevy in a while and wonder how the flat tappet hydraulic cams are holding up..thanks
@@danielmccoy8875 Crane cams work well I've used them with good results
@@Myvintageiron7512 Does it make any difference when using roller rockers?
So great to hear the info I need!. I love you man. :) You may have saved my 351 Cleveland break-in. thank you.
Great video , I’m right about this point in my build and this was very helpful . Do you recommend changing oil right after break in to HR oil ? Or break in oil again ?
As per royal purple, they said to use break in oil 1000 miles.
Yes change the oil right after 20 minute break in but put fresh break in oil back in for the first 500 miles then change it again using the same break in oil go another 500 miles and change to high zinc detergent based oil keep in mind there is always metel in the pan on a new engine use a magnetic drain plug and you will see it don't panic all new engines do this I had a customer with a new ZO6 and he was in a panic because his vette had metal on the magnet drain plug it's going to happen on any new engine for the first few thousand miles even with a roller cam
Hello, I am a Ford guy but just wanted to say how awesome your videos are. To see a true master machinist at work ...amazing....Anyway, please keep em coming. NIce to see REAL facts. Oh and I am watchingthis because very soon, I will be breaking in a FLAT TAPPET cam on my 66 289 (Edelbrock Cam, Edelbrock double roller chain, manifold and carb and GT40 type aluminum heads) THIS part is very interesting to me.
just use the correct oil and don't let it idle for the first 20 min watch your timing no more than 20 degrees at 2000 it will be fine ford small blocks are very stout engines they make great power with good heads and cam
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you ...your videos have been an inspiration ..my 66 is going to have a nice balance of power (about 310 when done) and handling ...But watching your videos makes me want to BUILD an engine from scratch !!! Thanks again and keep the data flowing
there is one thing about using the silicon on the intake i use the caskets with a little silicon on and in the corners never had a leak but i have seen the way u do it the silicon will flake off on the inside after few thousand miles it can plug up the oil screen seen it dun over 12 times from shops never use to much silicon bad way to go and don't care what u say i know what i have seen and three pro builders that build top fuel engines say the same thing one builder told me that he had a motor last 15 min on break in because of just what u did he said he would never do it again
Everything about this video is perfect.
Hello sir .
I just broke my cam in on my sbc changed the oil with penn grade 15-40 high zinc the same as what I broke it in with. Took the Camaro out and put just under 200 miles on it , around town , highway been having fun . All of a sudden #5 exhaust bent and broke a push rod . Pulled lifter found it completely collapsed ( Delphi lifters ) Long story short can I replace just that 1 lifter with comp cams assembly lube and hi zinc oil or do I need to replace the Cam and all lifters and start over
15-40 is Synthetic mix. NEVER break in a new engine with synthetic oil. If you replace the lifter try some Isky lube and break in oil. Break it in like you're doing a new cam. 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Bad Penn straight 30wt break in!
@stardroppercj Flat tappet cams are not broke in with synthetics. They don't have the zinc to protect the cam and lifters during the mating.
@stardroppercj First of all, idiot. I've been building engines for 35 years. Flat tappet cams have a complely different requirement than roller cams, which have no requirements for specialized zinc packages which DON'T come in synthetics. You have no real world experience obviously.
@stardroppercj Bradd Penn is the only one with ZDDP and Zinc requirements.
LOL to open a comment says everything. I'm a pilot by trade, but besides working with muscle car engines I've built many radial and v12s. I have seen many new flat tappet cams fail without the use of specialized oils like Penn Grade break in oil. That wasn't the case 25 years ago.
I called what fits. You spouted stuoidity and you're full of crap.
P.S. No one uses that in the states.
ive recently been binge watching your videos because i got covid and i cant go anywhere for two weeks so ive been watchin you. you are extremely informative and i find your level of knowledge second to none. im gonna be doing a cam swap in my 2008 6.0 ls truck motor ive subscribed and i learned so much from you already sir .thank you so much.
Glad to hear this THX!!
I just bought a elgin cam kit for my 400. Came with lifters,valve springs and cam. I didnt notice a line on the lifters. And the package does not specify what type of lifters they are. Have you heard anything bad about the lifter that come with the Elgin cam kits? Or should I just bite the bullet and run some comp lifters.i dont know if I wanna risk it.
Comp lifters!!
@@kevinshiley9061 just for everyone's info I did use them in my figure 8 car. Broke it in right and beat the hell out of it and no problems.
Great video.... I need to break in a new motor and this helps. So much
What happened to the ls series?
Awesome video thanks for the quick lesson on converting ft-lbs to inch-lbs definitely took some knowledge from this video🤘😎👍
I really appreciate your videos.. there are a few that show pictures only, and maybe a little video, but music playing, they do not explain anything. And that is not good. Your videos are really good. I have built engines, and installed, but it is still good to watch your videos. And I know others like me do the same. Among all other videos regarding engines. yours are the best!!
Thanks
2 cams latter listened to you and got JB-817's lifters now my son will be seen with me. THANK'S IT ONLY COST ME 300.00 BUCK AND A WEEKS WORK.
Great job showing I learned a lot I did not no ,thanks for the video. Ps I’ll be watching it more because I have a 350 Chevy motor old one. So have a great time, and thanks again.
Remember how attention to detail mattered on dual pattern lash? At one point in one of my engines lives, I experimented with tighter lash in colder weather. How great thou art.
McFly- "I'm your density."
LOL
Great video. I appreciate your style and delivery. Enjoy your videos very much, and thanks!
Great explanation, and very nice craftsmanship. Engine sounds health. Keep up the good stuff!!
40:02 a good note here for others following: Look at the distributor gear on this freeze frame. You will note the roll pin that holds the gear onto the shaft, but below that you will see a divot drilled into the gear. This divot will only be on this one side of the roll pin & this signifies where the rotor is pointing. This information can be useful should you pull a distributor out of the engine with the cap on.
One of these days I'll do a video how to set distributor and set the timing so close that you're either dead on or 1 to 2 degrees accurate. I learned this from working on VW engines valve adjustment same principle. I hardly ever have to reset the timing after I build a new engine motor. For electronic distributors the triggering points on the pickups are simple as that.
Nice vid. I like the initial timing setting.
That is a really good tip to use an in/lb torque wrench. I broke an exhaust bolt because it was a fairly low torque spec and all I had was a ½" lb/ft torque wrench. I looked over at my cousin and just as I said, "This thing just keeps turning so easy and hasn't clicked...", The bolt snapped. Long story short, had to pull the head to get the bolt out properly.
That was sick. I rebuild one just like that but never knew about the lifter . ruined my project . just like u said metal shavings all in the engine. Made my exhaust manifolds turn red.
My father always had an auto repair business when i was growing up. I wanted to prove that i could build a sbc from what i had learned watching and learning from the other mechanics in the shop. So my dad let me...i was 13 yrs old. Started it up and it had 80 lbs oil pressure...i thought my sh!t didn't stink. Two days later we had to tow the car in for a no start and long story short...it was seized...i had torqued the mains to 170lbs instead of 70 lbs. Apparently i didn't know how to read the torque wrench correctly haha. But hey...i learned real quick!!!
One of the best break-in oils out there wasn't even mentioned. Penn Grade AKA Brad Penn 30WT break in oil. It's green. However, I have broke in several flat-tappet engines with heavy valve springs with no issue. I also recommend using Isky Lube on the lobes and the bottom of the tappets. Nothing worse than a tear down because of crappy oil or having to remove inner springs. You're usually fine with 100-140 on the seat and 340 open @.600 without removing the inner springs. Good video. Need to do more FE builds.
Really Like your vids Sir. I'm a UTI grad myself. 1987.
My brother Erick graduated UTI in '87. He drove down to Phoenix in a yellow '69 Ford Falcon with a guy named Gus Cordova from Oregon. My brother passed away a few years ago. Gus has his own shop in Oregon going strong.
Hope your career is going good. Mick
@@mickeykreg think I remember Gus
I like putting a coat of Wolf’s Head high temp wheel bearing grease on the lifter. The assembly lube goes flying off when that cam starts spinning. You need something that will stick. Assembly lube is for rod and main bearing surfaces.
Also, you are 100% correct most street use rebuilt engines don’t need roller rockers.
Is that made by Wolf Cola?
I really like Howard's all the way around. Their catalog is very impressive and very in depth compared to most.
I couldn't agree more I almost always use Howards in my personal engines I just put a Howards big Daddy Rattler hyd roller in my 427 BB for the S-10 build