If you built it like this guy I hope you paid attn. when you tore it out! Get ready to do it again real soon! Sorry ! What I am really sorry about is people like this dude posting videos that are completely misleading others and costing them lots of money and pain when they follow his methods!
I had a shower installer use concrete bricks instead of 2x4 at the opening. Pretty much the same after that. In retrospect, seeing wood rot, bricks is a great idea.
Our constructive method in Brazil is different, full of freshness, Admire and study the American methods and I regret that this type of input so simple adopted in America does not reach my country and when it arrives has prohibitive prices. I study your methods and create parallel alternatives to our reality with items common to our daily lives. Registered now
Thanks Isaac! I’m making my 5th bathroom and your videos answer many questions . Last one was a solid slab shower with lineal drain. This one is a large wet room.
I hear ya but a linear drain is the way to go. Besides how many people are diligent about cleaning their shower drains. It's generally only if they start to drain slow. If you are one of the very few that clean their drain regularly then there won't be any surprises no matter what style you install. I like the fact that the base is on a bit of a slope instead of angled sides plus not having to stand in the dirty bath water while it drains in the centre. I installed a shower for my Dad that utilizes a walker, the linear drain allowed me to eliminate a threshold for him to step over by installing the drain along the far wall. What a great application. Each to his own, though, but to me, it is the way to go. I like the fact that you can install the tile into it so only a small drain slit is visible.
Great video! A trick I picked up, is to just cut an “X” over the drain hole and fold the liner flaps down into the drain. The ring will ensure they stay folded down. Just an extra measure.
The ring will not hold the pan down. I am also failing to see what extra protect that is providing. Also putting the silicone on the bottom flange of the drain before having the pan i place seems like a bad idea as well. Cutting the hole out for the drain properly allows you to lift the pan after it is secured to the walls and apply the silicone exactly where it is needed.
@@spencerhansen8374 The caulk groove? That groove is for the pan to be clamped down with the ridge on the clamp ring. The silicon bead should be between the grove and bolt holes. All pans are water tested for 24 hrs using a test ball. Test balls are used to ensure if a drain backs up the water won't leak under the pan. The inspector makes sure the pan drains and the weep holes are open. In 47 years I have never failed a pan inspection.
House keeper are also men. They are called Cleaning staff. Maids are what they were called in the day. Thanks for this video was very helpful. I have used this liner material before. This is the best product I have found to date. I feel like my next tile job will be better. Thanks Again.
Thanks for the way you do your curbs, that's what I was looking for. Mine are always fat because I keep more of the liner... P.S.... a faster way of cutting out your bolts and drain hole..., cut a cris-cross +.. across the top of the bolts and they just pop right through. And then cut your drain the same way, Then drop the flange down, and follow your direction of tightening down the bolts. You have no waste, and you have a tighter seal with all the liner getting pinned between the flanges!
I strictly use Schluter products from the pan to the wall boards and niches and curbs. You can install and start tiling that same day except the curbs because you have to allow to dry. I have been tiling for since 2013 and still learning the way they change and improve their products. Good to see how the old way is done since I'm taking over a homeowner attempt at the shower pan, which is this rubber membrane. Vary helpful thank you.
Yup... .. but... purple board? If your gonna do a shower...do it right. Who uses drywall anymore? I get called to rip it out. Now u know why. It's a moisture wick.
If when you get to the the curb fold of liner, don't make your cut on the liner straight up, instead cut liner(3rd)layer back horizontally towards back of shower so when it folds over curb you have that piece now up the curbs wall
@@TileCoach no way that purple moisture resistant drywall will last 10 years max or full 1 water leak...that would not fly in my area can't use drywall products in wet areas at all its only protected 1 side.
@@marcfavell Dude, it was a perfectly fine PAN install. And No, he didn't have to use the PAN liner to go over the bench. This was not a video of the water proofing of the shower. If it had been I would be right there with you. However, if I were to do this, I would use Kerdi or Redguard membrane over the drywall and bench to drain into the pan. However, for the purposed of this video he didn't show the rest of the shower install.
@@qball3835must be nice to just blow time and money for a video not properly done then. Myabe his company charges so much that they can just afford extra liner material???
I have zero expertise with tiles and bath renovations, but on the internet, everyone says no purple board in the shower area. Just curious, any reason you are using purple boards on the side, instead of cement boards? What works best? purple board + RedGard, or HardieBacker cement + RedGard? Thanks!
Thanks for the step by step explanations. I'm a DIY'er tackling a shower rebuild for the first time. It started as regrouting the floor, we all know how that goes. I've watched a few videos here and yours is the only one that fully explains how the corner protectors are installed. Thanks again.
58 year old tile setter here, you use dry pack not "Mud" correct? and since that looks like particle board, I always coat that type of material with Red Guard Water proofing. I use it in my YT. Its just added Protections from Moisture under the rubber dam sheeting.
So different to how we do it in Aus. Great workmanship 🤙 we normally sheet the room with cement board (villa board) then caulk any seams, joins or screws and then paint on a waterproof membrane. It gives a even flat finish to tile on. For the floors we the lay a sand cement screed on top for falls. So interesting how different things are done
This is also done this way in the US. I’m going to be doing exactly that (except I’ll be doing a hard pack floor over a pan liner) but otherwise the same
I'm a retired contractor. Never did bathrooms. I learned some great stuff. Thanks!!!! Going to watch more of your videos now while I am doing my own home bathroom. Rule one....Do a great job Rule two....Get your money y'all You really can't do one without the other.
Thanks for everything man I feel better and doing this myself. I love people like you who don’t gatekeeper trade knowledge. Thank you so much keep it up!
Mr. ISAAC, you are definetly the tile coach i wanna learn from, any chance you have episodes in order start to finish, using a liner like in episode 9..
I would like to see you showing viewers how to use a poured concrete curb with the pan liner run up in the middle of the curb. This I a way used to ensure pan doesn't get damaged or have a curb leak
My question is what do u do about the thicknesses difference between the green rock and the liner? Do u go green rock back over the liner or pack it full of thinset ?
I really appreciate you posting the videos up. It has helped me immensely. I am at the stage of installing the shower pan linear and have it exactly where you are in this video. My question is How do you seal the pan linear where it meats the backboard. A colleague of mine says the pan linear needs to be under the backer board so it does not leak.
I prefer a linear drain for many reasons. 1) For balance issues, having no sloping sides etc. 2) Large tile installation. 3) Easy to prepare, having an even slope from one end to the other. 4) Less time to prepare and to install large tiles. 5) Never have to stand in your shower water, it all goes towards the linear drain under the
I thought I wanted a linear drain myself, until I talked to a buddy whose shower has one. He said that he has to clean it frequently, and that it gets kinda disgusting below the grate. Changed my mind to a FloFX drain.
Tile Coach you're the BOSS! Thank you for all the tutorials. I have a right sloping drain on 5 foot tub I want to replace with a walk-in shower pan. The current drain plumbing on the far right is about 8 inches from the wall. How do I slope the pan back to the drain?
Most membranes say right in the instructions not to be used on sheet rock. Like that hack startle does. This video is old and I have not seen this guy use sheetrock in the shower in his newer video. Sheetrock in shower wrong period. Also the seem at the liner is very bad.
@@tuppersdad another opportunity for them to not honor any warranty. They also say to apply with a trowel no? Schluter does work with sheetrock though doesnt it? I just tore apart a shower with green sheetrock and lathe on it. Sheet rock was completely dry no issues (except at the bottom where the sheetrock was making contact with the "shower pan) , and it didn't have a water barrier. Redgard says it can also be used as a shower pan liner. You beleive that? Or you form your own opinions?
@@MrTacolover42 I believe all the membranes can be used as a shower liner. Some you must use a mesh with it. Not sure how red gaurd works don't use it i don't think it is a great product. In my area commercial they use the laticrete products like hydroban for shower liners all the time.
I just ripped out a shower in our new to us modular house in Florida. Difference was, they used Portland cement and tile above the liner. This wouldn't have been so bad, except the plumbing leaked inside the wet wall, trashing the flooring under the shower. I will have to redo the whole thing. Also no vapor liner was used. They just tiled over the regular sheet rock which also was fine, although I would have used mold resistant. I'm going to try solid sheets with a seat similar to what you have here. My layout is flip flopped, wet wall is on the right side looking at the shower from the front.
Awsome reminds me of roofing i do commercial roofing and hand weld pvc and tpo materials at corners and ac curbs on roofs we call those corners hog ears I wonder if an 0.60 thickness pvc membrane can be used as a liner . I know I can make that waterproof and hand weld the corners with a heat gun . Love your videos hopefully be doing my bathrooms over in my new house thanks to your videos
thanks for showing the drain assembly separate. It really helped to see that. Question - I notice the pan liner goes up the wall right on the wood blocking. Do you come back and put backer board over the pan liner on the wall? what do you do there?
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
Ok I stand corrected after watching your vid again about a couple of things! You did go high enough with the pan vinyl on the walls! You still however need some coaching (get it) about building benches in showers and everything i said about all that is still true! You gotta contain your bench inside your pan vinyl! You still havent addressed how that bench is ever going to be waterproof until you do!
Isacc. Here’s 1 for ya. continuity wires. It’s something customers LOVE. In short without much detail unless you want that. Run wires to the areas that leak the most over time. Run to shower valve. You can run 1 or several sets of wires. Pull cover off and use a tester to see if water has leaked under pan. Sounds crazy but it keeps workers from cheating. Customers get a extra service per say. In short it’s a water alarm. You can also do this but there’s pros and cons to it. For 30 yrs plus in construction plus. The biggest is customer satisfaction. It’s always a step above the rest. And if correct your in CA. Same here. Some strict codes. Let alone customers
No one explains that. Especially with all those freaking folds in the corners, and the thickness difference with the backer. Other videos say don't put backer over the membrane, but what holds the tile????
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
I keep the bolts out, install pan liner, cut a smaller hole than the drain in the liner, then X cut the rest so the liner folds down into the drain, then put a bead of caulk through the hole or by lifting the liner up making sure I go over the bolt holes!, I then push liner down by hand and you can feel where the holes are for the flange bolts I just put an X slice for the bolts putting more silicone in each hole. I also make my curbs out of mud bed mortar and run the liner up half through the curb so I don't have to cut my liner and rely on rubber cement. I water proof the inside of the curb and the top very well but leave the outside just motar so any moisture can wick through the grout lines and evaporate. I believe it is a must to use rocks around the drain so the water can weep into the weep holes easily. This is where all the water pools up.
As long as you have slope under the vinyl liner you could but wood subfloors arent built with slope built in! They are built flat thats the nature of the material! Code says 1/4” per ft to the drain ! So if the drain is in the center it needs slope all the way around it first before the vinyl liner goes in! Best way to achieve that is with mortar and let it dry! The whole purpose of that is because water penetrates! It penetrates grout, mortar ,even tile! It penetrates cracked caulking joints in the corners! It doesnt care! When it penetrates it first hits the vinyl pan ,then travels towards the drain which has weep holes around it! If you installed your pan vinyl correctly, you should have caulked the vinyl pan to the drain flange being careful not to plug those weepholes! The water hits the vinyl and goes down the weep holes into the sewer ! If its not sloped under the vinyl it goes to where water goes to which is whatever is downhill! Meaning the curb or the corners of the shower, seat, etc where it becomes acidic because there is no oxygen in that airtight environment! It starts collecting there eating away at the vinyl until a hole is formed and it continues on its downhill journey to your freshly tiled wall and floor substrates (drywall or whatever and subfloor)! Thats a how to in a nutshell on how to build a waterproof shower enclosure!
My Builder used a Wedi Shower Pan, Walls, Ceiling, and the Slightly sloped floor from the toilet. It was all taped with Wedi mesh, Wedi Polyurethane Caulk. There's nothing to rot, I don't see how it could ever leak. Another benefit is the Tile warms quickly. I don't recommend a tile bench, they are cold in the Winter, grow mold. We have a Teak corner bench. I take it out about three times, clean it, set it in the sun to dry, and saturate it with the Teak oil supplied by the bench manufacture.
We will notch the corner 2x studs out 1/8"-1/4" up to 6-8" high so that the corner folds recess into the framing a bit, keeps the durock or kerdi board from bowing out in those corners
Awesome video. Only recommendation I have is to tell the audience that the bottom board (in my opinion/experience) should be 1/4” to cover the liner. It’s easier to build the bottom row/rows of tile out instead of putting 1/2” on like the rest of the showe and the board being kicked out too much because it’s on the liner. I love your videos, learned a lot
I am running into this issue, wondering how I transition from the tile on the wall to the bottom ~10 inches of tile over my pan liner. So you're saying drop down to 1/4" for the bottom piece of Durok? Could I just build up the walls on the bottom 10 inches with mud in order to make it flush to the 1/2" walls?
I noticed on your video, that you didn't recess the wood(studs), to accommodate the folding of the membrane, that once folded, it creates a bulk and by consequence the bottom of the tile install scoops out, so how would you avoid the bulk on completing the wall (cement board or whatever element you use) ?
I tuck the edges nicely inside the studs like you are talking about. He floats his walls out to plumb his walls I used to do this but like my schlutter jolly edge to sit flush and true with the outside drywall edge. This also may take drywall floating for the cleanest finish.
How you doing … I been watching your videos for over a week now great job … but I’m a little indecisive now which way to go with my shower … You go multiple ways on your walls and pans… I already experienced a bad shower and had major damages and now looking for trusted product to avoid another nightmare… I understand the installer is the one that must know how to install what ever product to go with … can you recommend my product ? Thanks.
I do have some questions. I’ve been building showers for 35 years and build lots of them. Why do you have your board up already? It seems more logical to lap your full sheets of wall board down over the membrane to just shy of the bottom. I use go-board. 100% waterproof. That way you can start fastening it about 6” up and it has a more even surface than installing strips like you’ll have to do there. Also I’m not crazy about having horizontal seems that close to the floor. Lots and lots of moisture down that low. Any mistake in seem sealing and you’ll have a real problem down that low. Also I’ve never sliced the membrane to do the curb corner. There is a fold and tuck method that doesn’t require any cutting inside the shower. 👍👍
I learned the trade from my dad and the tricky part that I cant seem to find an instructional video on is after I put the rubber liner on the curb. When I go to wrap it with cement board what would be the proper way of cement boarding the inside curb??? I can send you my email if youd rather respond through that I know everyone on the internet is an opinionated inspector.
@@cubancigar14i9 you can buy pre formed curbs bro. You should check them out. Drop the pan in seal it up and drop your preformed curb on top and nail to the front of the curb not the top or inside.
@@josephmerkle398 thanks for the reply, I've used those pre foamed curbs too but I mean in the instances where I'm wrapping 2x4 curbs with cement board. I'm curious to hear how other guys screw there curbs together when they wrap it with cement board
How do you deal with the extra thick corners were you fold the pan? And what do you fill the bottom 8 inches with on the wall? Thanks, your videos are very informative.
Oatey pan liner has an instructional video that is also very easy to follow. Although the way they show how the liner is cut over the curb seems simpler and more watertight.
I build my benches out of cinder block. That way there's no way they can ever deteriorate. Skim coat with thinset when you are done and waterproof, they are good forever.
I love the fact that you realize it is important to pre-pitch your pan. As far as the weep holes go though, you should just put pea gravel around them allowing for water to get through all of it.
@@stevelopez372 I live in Ohio so just about everything is over wood floors. a shower setup is still the same no matter where you're at though. Everything requires a pan liner to be installed. Just make sure you level the area the bench is going to be built on.
That's a nice job My name is Mike a been at this for 44 years and 61 when still in good shape to continue on doing great work with marble and granite. What was very important back when I was your age is I took galvanized wire laugh and bent it over the curb classically and then I'm rise It off the curb and then re bend it tighter when I've noticed is as you put it back in you don't need any nails isn't that special. The edge of a cut wire laugh is teat a factory edge of the material is in the shower floor area the exterior part is what's cut normally it's about 10" wide and probly 4' long. Now think of the idea of mixing sand and cement with an set and putting his scratch coat vertically and horizontally but not on the outside leave that for later.. Now the fun part is is a nonstick material which I liked use well me I have a sealed piece of plywood as you mud the inside vertical on the curb what you need to understand is that you could put brace wood clamps I'd old care but when you pull it after it dries guess what happens you have a beautiful surface to tile on is and a great.. And by the way there's a trick to the trade out good at makes your sand and cement for your dry pack into buckets by using your drill think about it political water and add a little samat makes it up by your screeds makes little more up guess what you don't have to chop it up with a whole anymore it's pretty simple to do just learn how to do-it-yourself because you guys are good at what you do thank you.
It’s interesting how trades change their scope. I’m a plumber. I started in 99 and then did it til about 2005. Then I got back in the trade in about 2015. In the early 2000s we always did the shower pans using shower pan liner. Now other than drains the only thing we do is put the test on. I understand with fiberglass pans because that’s not something plumbers or tilers would want to invest training and tools for but everything else I’m curious why plumbers don’t do them especially when it’s usually on our permit so if it fails we fail even if we didn’t do it. It’s the same with counter tops. We used to cut all our holes for sinks and lavs but now the cabinet guys do it.
So I read a lot of the comments and, jeez, what a bunch of haters. From what I saw, your liner had a drain penetration + the bolts. It's a SHOWER, folks!! Not a swimming pool Water still runs down hill in 2019
Hey exactly how i do it, but i did get a good laugh when you used chanel locks to tighten the drain flange that was funny. Ok and hot mopping is still probably the best way to seal my opinion.
Thanks for the info man my boss asked me to tile his bathroom and I haven’t done tile in 6 years (been a concrete guy since). Putting in the membrane right now appreciate the video
I’m here to grow as well my man! Great stuff. The only thing I would do different when cutting the holes for the bolts and drain hole is that I would cut out an X instead of the actual shape of the hole. All it does is create another secure way for the water to only go down the hole. Basically creates flaps that point down the drain hole. Either way, great video and very informative. Thanks.
There are female threads inside the drain hole. If you leave flaps, there is no way to thread the adjustable drain to the drain body. The flaps will block the threads. The video doesnt show the the adjustable drain threaded in yet, so this may sound confusing...
What do you think of installing the 2x4 curb about 3/4 short of the wall on both sides ( so basically the 2x4's don't go all the way left and right) now when installing the liner you can tuck the liner in that gap ? This can enable the liner to be completely seamless over the curb and the side of the curb where you had used those patches.....I have done it both ways , but like the tuck method. I round the edge of the 2x4 at the top also, so its not to sharp against the liner.
Once you’ve done it a handful of time with no failure. You know these are good, it’s extremely hard to pierce the liner. Where’s the water going to go? Clients want the job done yesterday. If there no inspection there’s no need. If it’s liquid applied or sealant than yes always water test.
A real water test will be after 5 yrs! My money is on his curb being trashed and his seat as well! A 24 hr water test just says the corners were folded correctly ! Since the seat is outside the shower pan it doesnt address the problems that are bound to occur there! But then again how do you wood frame a seat thats going to not be affected by water if it IS inside the pan? If you do (frame it) ,and ,water test it ,the wood frame would be sitting in the water ! So how do you do it then? Answer is you build the seat and curb out of solid masonary but that requires a very high skill level to get it right so that the tile is nice and flat and the corners are nice and square! Not many people these days have a clue about building showers like that! That includes this guy I bet! It takes too long and its expensive as hell! We live in a time crunch society and no one is willing to spend the time and money to do it this way anymore! So you get guys like this who throw this shit together so it lasts just past the warranty of a few yrs! One year by law!
@@kurtismoeller1512its not hard at all to pierce the liner! Stop with your silly broken english advice that makes no grammatical sense! Or learn to proof read one of the 2!
Hy. good morning. I am watching your video. and now I am a handy guy, do anything with my hands. but I am doing a bathroom walking shower. I am debating to do like tou are doing with the dry packing system or to put back the white fiberboard base / water catcher base. now. my question is can I install that water tite fabric down first and then install the fiberglass shower base water catcher on top ? thanks
Im 56 been doing this for over 30 + years and i love learning and watching.like this guys attitude .
Fantastic help! I tore out my shower and am rebuilding it. Your videos are so helpful! Thank you and God Bless you Isaac
If you built it like this guy I hope you paid attn. when you tore it out! Get ready to do it again real soon! Sorry ! What I am really sorry about is people like this dude posting videos that are completely misleading others and costing them lots of money and pain when they follow his methods!
I had a shower installer use concrete bricks instead of 2x4 at the opening. Pretty much the same after that. In retrospect, seeing wood rot, bricks is a great idea.
Our constructive method in Brazil is different, full of freshness, Admire and study the American methods and I regret that this type of input so simple adopted in America does not reach my country and when it arrives has prohibitive prices. I study your methods and create parallel alternatives to our reality with items common to our daily lives. Registered now
Thanks Isaac! I’m making my 5th bathroom and your videos answer many questions . Last one was a solid slab shower with lineal drain. This one is a large wet room.
Thanks for showing how to use those pre-formed corners.
Love that you share your knowledge. Isaac, you are a good man.
Old Orange County ca tile setter !!, nice videos !! Hot mop is still the best !! , Your a good mechanic !! , it’s good to see !! Thanks , Rick
I like when tradesmen can admit there may be a better way. I learn something every day
I hear ya but a linear drain is the way to go. Besides how many people are diligent about cleaning their shower drains. It's generally only if they start to drain slow. If you are one of the very few that clean their drain regularly then there won't be any surprises no matter what style you install. I like the fact that the base is on a bit of a slope instead of angled sides plus not having to stand in the dirty bath water while it drains in the centre. I installed a shower for my Dad that utilizes a walker, the linear drain allowed me to eliminate a threshold for him to step over by installing the drain along the far wall. What a great application. Each to his own, though, but to me, it is the way to go. I like the fact that you can install the tile into it so only a small drain slit is visible.
Great video! A trick I picked up, is to just cut an “X” over the drain hole and fold the liner flaps down into the drain. The ring will ensure they stay folded down. Just an extra measure.
The ring will not hold the pan down. I am also failing to see what extra protect that is providing. Also putting the silicone on the bottom flange of the drain before having the pan i place seems like a bad idea as well. Cutting the hole out for the drain properly allows you to lift the pan after it is secured to the walls and apply the silicone exactly where it is needed.
I guess if you cut. Perfect O the theory is water may run back under it as it drains. Who knows
Another experiment for the tile coach to do!
@@vic1sch the caulk groove is exactly where it needs to be, how are you planning to change that by not caulking first. Fighting it later doesn't help.
@@spencerhansen8374 The caulk groove? That groove is for the pan to be clamped down with the ridge on the clamp ring. The silicon bead should be between the grove and bolt holes. All pans are water tested for 24 hrs using a test ball. Test balls are used to ensure if a drain backs up the water won't leak under the pan. The inspector makes sure the pan drains and the weep holes are open. In 47 years I have never failed a pan inspection.
House keeper are also men. They are called Cleaning staff. Maids are what they were called in the day. Thanks for this video was very helpful. I have used this liner material before. This is the best product I have found to date. I feel like my next tile job will be better. Thanks Again.
Thanks for the way you do your curbs, that's what I was looking for.
Mine are always fat because I keep more of the liner...
P.S.... a faster way of cutting out your bolts and drain hole..., cut a cris-cross +.. across the top of the bolts and they just pop right through.
And then cut your drain the same way, Then drop the flange down, and follow your direction of tightening down the bolts. You have no waste, and you have a tighter seal with all the liner getting pinned between the flanges!
I strictly use Schluter products from the pan to the wall boards and niches and curbs. You can install and start tiling that same day except the curbs because you have to allow to dry. I have been tiling for since 2013 and still learning the way they change and improve their products. Good to see how the old way is done since I'm taking over a homeowner attempt at the shower pan, which is this rubber membrane. Vary helpful thank you.
Yup... .. but... purple board? If your gonna do a shower...do it right. Who uses drywall anymore? I get called to rip it out. Now u know why. It's a moisture wick.
You Rock!!! Been doing tile 40 years and you do it right!!!! and I'm just a girl.
40 yrs? And you think this guy does it right? My friend,You need better education than watching this guy! I dont care if you are girl or guy!
If when you get to the the curb fold of liner, don't make your cut on the liner straight up, instead cut liner(3rd)layer back horizontally towards back of shower so when it folds over curb you have that piece now up the curbs wall
Love the attitude! When you still want to keep learning, then you are on your way to doing a great job!
Thank you for sharing. Your knowledge is not falling on deaf ears.
Nice detail with your shower liner. I remember when you used to tar your old showers.
Thank goodness for RUclips, It's job security for me. I'll be behind these guys
@@TileCoach no way that purple moisture resistant drywall will last 10 years max or full 1 water leak...that would not fly in my area can't use drywall products in wet areas at all its only protected 1 side.
And you should have went higher over the bench with the pvc liner
@@marcfavell Dude, it was a perfectly fine PAN install. And No, he didn't have to use the PAN liner to go over the bench.
This was not a video of the water proofing of the shower. If it had been I would be right there with you. However, if I were to do this, I would use Kerdi or Redguard membrane over the drywall and bench to drain into the pan. However, for the purposed of this video he didn't show the rest of the shower install.
@@marcfavell first thing I was gonna say... Hardy is the chit!
@@qball3835must be nice to just blow time and money for a video not properly done then. Myabe his company charges so much that they can just afford extra liner material???
How did you water proof the bench and walls? Do you have more videos tied to this specific project?
I have zero expertise with tiles and bath renovations, but on the internet, everyone says no purple board in the shower area. Just curious, any reason you are using purple boards on the side, instead of cement boards?
What works best? purple board + RedGard, or HardieBacker cement + RedGard? Thanks!
How do you account for the difference in thickness between the liner and the board above it when installing the tile?
Only thing I do different. No 2x4 in the curb. I run my liner through the middle of a sand mix curb. The only place my liner is cut is for the drain.
Awesome I do the same thing!
Thanks for the step by step explanations. I'm a DIY'er tackling a shower rebuild for the first time. It started as regrouting the floor, we all know how that goes. I've watched a few videos here and yours is the only one that fully explains how the corner protectors are installed. Thanks again.
58 year old tile setter here, you use dry pack not "Mud" correct? and since that looks like particle board,
I always coat that type of material with Red Guard Water proofing. I use it in my YT. Its just added
Protections from Moisture under the rubber dam sheeting.
So different to how we do it in Aus. Great workmanship 🤙 we normally sheet the room with cement board (villa board) then caulk any seams, joins or screws and then paint on a waterproof membrane. It gives a even flat finish to tile on. For the floors we the lay a sand cement screed on top for falls. So interesting how different things are done
This is also done this way in the US. I’m going to be doing exactly that (except I’ll be doing a hard pack floor over a pan liner) but otherwise the same
I replace a few showers a year that have been done like this. I used to curse at this. Now, it’s job security! Thanks man!!
I'm a retired contractor. Never did bathrooms. I learned some great stuff. Thanks!!!!
Going to watch more of your videos now while I am doing my own home bathroom.
Rule one....Do a great job
Rule two....Get your money y'all
You really can't do one without the other.
I don’t know why I’m watching this, but I enjoy your videos.
Thanks for everything man I feel better and doing this myself. I love people like you who don’t gatekeeper trade knowledge. Thank you so much keep it up!
How do you put tile on that surface
@@raymondmaglaris4149 You dont. You put a mortar bed over that liner first. Let it dry. Then tile goes on mortar bed.
@@porcelinaofthevastoceans3903 wow ez pz makes a lot of sense
Mr. ISAAC, you are definetly the tile coach i wanna learn from, any chance you have episodes in order start to finish, using a liner like in episode 9..
I would like to see you showing viewers how to use a poured concrete curb with the pan liner run up in the middle of the curb. This I a way used to ensure pan doesn't get damaged or have a curb leak
Keep up the good work!
Friendly tip: try using a rubber dead blow hammer and gently hit the top of bolts to make a very fast exact fit. 👍🏻
My question is what do u do about the thicknesses difference between the green rock and the liner? Do u go green rock back over the liner or pack it full of thinset ?
Lath followed by mud!
i use small rocks, gravel 1/4" max around the weep holes while sand mix goes on. its a good trick. peace
very hot teacher
I was taught the same. 👍🏻
Awesome,SPECTACULAR, Beautiful Handiwork excellent workmanship.
That video was very helpful you made it look so easy which I'm sure it's not .I wish I could find someone as talented in my area to work on my shower
I really appreciate you posting the videos up. It has helped me immensely. I am at the stage of installing the shower pan linear and have it exactly where you are in this video. My question is How do you seal the pan linear where it meats the backboard. A colleague of mine says the pan linear needs to be under the backer board so it does not leak.
Amazing Video! I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm sure I can get it done after watching the video. Thank you!
Awesome instructional video! Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise! God bless in Jesus'name bro!
Thanks Isaac! I laid down my slope layer and pan yesterday. Going to float walls today!
I prefer a linear drain for many reasons. 1) For balance issues, having no sloping sides etc. 2) Large tile installation. 3) Easy to prepare, having an even slope from one end to the other. 4) Less time to prepare and to install large tiles. 5) Never have to stand in your shower water, it all goes towards the linear drain under the
I thought I wanted a linear drain myself, until I talked to a buddy whose shower has one. He said that he has to clean it frequently, and that it gets kinda disgusting below the grate. Changed my mind to a FloFX drain.
Tile Coach you're the BOSS! Thank you for all the tutorials. I have a right sloping drain on 5 foot tub I want to replace with a walk-in shower pan. The current drain plumbing on the far right is about 8 inches from the wall. How do I slope the pan back to the drain?
Thank you 4 your videos...I'm tryng to convert my tub shower in to a walk in so I'm watching all your videos related to this.
Drywall is a great tile backer but ONLY for dry areas... Never in a wet environment like a shower!!
He's likely going to put a water barrier on this mold resistant drywall, and probably epoxy grout after. That backer board will never see water!
Most membranes say right in the instructions not to be used on sheet rock. Like that hack startle does. This video is old and I have not seen this guy use sheetrock in the shower in his newer video. Sheetrock in shower wrong period. Also the seem at the liner is very bad.
@@tuppersdad another opportunity for them to not honor any warranty. They also say to apply with a trowel no? Schluter does work with sheetrock though doesnt it?
I just tore apart a shower with green sheetrock and lathe on it. Sheet rock was completely dry no issues (except at the bottom where the sheetrock was making contact with the "shower pan) , and it didn't have a water barrier.
Redgard says it can also be used as a shower pan liner. You beleive that? Or you form your own opinions?
@@MrTacolover42 I believe all the membranes can be used as a shower liner. Some you must use a mesh with it. Not sure how red gaurd works don't use it i don't think it is a great product. In my area commercial they use the laticrete products like hydroban for shower liners all the time.
Never use sheetrock for a wet area like a shower. Always make sure pan liner is 6” above fill line(curb).
Nice work. I can’t wait to work on my shower. And thanks for teaching me.
I just ripped out a shower in our new to us modular house in Florida. Difference was, they used Portland cement and tile above the liner. This wouldn't have been so bad, except the plumbing leaked inside the wet wall, trashing the flooring under the shower. I will have to redo the whole thing. Also no vapor liner was used. They just tiled over the regular sheet rock which also was fine, although I would have used mold resistant. I'm going to try solid sheets with a seat similar to what you have here. My layout is flip flopped, wet wall is on the right side looking at the shower from the front.
Thank you coach. Im new to shower pans but i love the trades and definitely need help/ guidance at times,
Great video boss. So you would recommend leveling the slab with thinset BEFORE you put the liner in?
Best illustration of using those corner thingies that I've seen yet. Well done!
Thanks brother, I needed to see this!
Awsome reminds me of roofing i do commercial roofing and hand weld pvc and tpo materials at corners and ac curbs on roofs we call those corners hog ears I wonder if an 0.60 thickness pvc membrane can be used as a liner . I know I can make that waterproof and hand weld the corners with a heat gun . Love your videos hopefully be doing my bathrooms over in my new house thanks to your videos
thanks for showing the drain assembly separate. It really helped to see that. Question - I notice the pan liner goes up the wall right on the wood blocking. Do you come back and put backer board over the pan liner on the wall? what do you do there?
Same question ...as pan liner should be behind the wall board or backerboard.
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
"Sometimes its a little tricky" that is the nicest I've ever heard that said..
Ok I stand corrected after watching your vid again about a couple of things! You did go high enough with the pan vinyl on the walls! You still however need some coaching (get it) about building benches in showers and everything i said about all that is still true! You gotta contain your bench inside your pan vinyl! You still havent addressed how that bench is ever going to be waterproof until you do!
Isacc. Here’s 1 for ya.
continuity wires.
It’s something customers LOVE.
In short without much detail unless you want that.
Run wires to the areas that leak the most over time.
Run to shower valve.
You can run 1 or several sets of wires. Pull cover off and use a tester to see if water has leaked under pan.
Sounds crazy but it keeps workers from cheating. Customers get a extra service per say.
In short it’s a water alarm.
You can also do this but there’s pros and cons to it.
For 30 yrs plus in construction plus. The biggest is customer satisfaction. It’s always a step above the rest.
And if correct your in CA. Same here.
Some strict codes. Let alone customers
How do you plan to tile over the liner at the lower wall areas? More drywall!!???
Did you ever figure it out? I have the samequestion
No one explains that. Especially with all those freaking folds in the corners, and the thickness difference with the backer. Other videos say don't put backer over the membrane, but what holds the tile????
I have the same question. I need to know the missing steps between this video and the next one. What did you put over the pan liner on the wall to make it flush with the wall board? I am now stuck at the spot where this video ended. HELP !! Please.
Great work bro very informable teacher in the trade
We do things a lot a like,i never use wood on my curb though i form it and pour a solid concrete curb
Thanks a lot for the tips.
Just wonder if you have a chance to us how to attach the shower base to the PVC pipe
Thank you very much
I keep the bolts out, install pan liner, cut a smaller hole than the drain in the liner, then X cut the rest so the liner folds down into the drain, then put a bead of caulk through the hole or by lifting the liner up making sure I go over the bolt holes!, I then push liner down by hand and you can feel where the holes are for the flange bolts I just put an X slice for the bolts putting more silicone in each hole. I also make my curbs out of mud bed mortar and run the liner up half through the curb so I don't have to cut my liner and rely on rubber cement. I water proof the inside of the curb and the top very well but leave the outside just motar so any moisture can wick through the grout lines and evaporate. I believe it is a must to use rocks around the drain so the water can weep into the weep holes easily. This is where all the water pools up.
Can I install PVC liner over subfloor without mortar underneath the liner.Thank you.
As long as you have slope under the vinyl liner you could but wood subfloors arent built with slope built in! They are built flat thats the nature of the material! Code says 1/4” per ft to the drain ! So if the drain is in the center it needs slope all the way around it first before the vinyl liner goes in! Best way to achieve that is with mortar and let it dry! The whole purpose of that is because water penetrates! It penetrates grout, mortar ,even tile! It penetrates cracked caulking joints in the corners! It doesnt care! When it penetrates it first hits the vinyl pan ,then travels towards the drain which has weep holes around it! If you installed your pan vinyl correctly, you should have caulked the vinyl pan to the drain flange being careful not to plug those weepholes! The water hits the vinyl and goes down the weep holes into the sewer ! If its not sloped under the vinyl it goes to where water goes to which is whatever is downhill! Meaning the curb or the corners of the shower, seat, etc where it becomes acidic because there is no oxygen in that airtight environment! It starts collecting there eating away at the vinyl until a hole is formed and it continues on its downhill journey to your freshly tiled wall and floor substrates (drywall or whatever and subfloor)! Thats a how to in a nutshell on how to build a waterproof shower enclosure!
My Builder used a Wedi Shower Pan, Walls, Ceiling, and the Slightly sloped floor from the toilet. It was all taped with Wedi mesh, Wedi Polyurethane Caulk. There's nothing to rot, I don't see how it could ever leak. Another benefit is the Tile warms quickly. I don't recommend a tile bench, they are cold in the Winter, grow mold. We have a Teak corner bench. I take it out about three times, clean it, set it in the sun to dry, and saturate it with the Teak oil supplied by the bench manufacture.
There's so many half assed videos on this out there. I am definitely doing it just like this!
We will notch the corner 2x studs out 1/8"-1/4" up to 6-8" high so that the corner folds recess into the framing a bit, keeps the durock or kerdi board from bowing out in those corners
Nice corner detail. I get the liner stapled in place then make my cuts and glue in the corner, but I like your way better, the way it overlaps.
Awesome video. Only recommendation I have is to tell the audience that the bottom board (in my opinion/experience) should be 1/4” to cover the liner. It’s easier to build the bottom row/rows of tile out instead of putting 1/2” on like the rest of the showe and the board being kicked out too much because it’s on the liner. I love your videos, learned a lot
I am running into this issue, wondering how I transition from the tile on the wall to the bottom ~10 inches of tile over my pan liner. So you're saying drop down to 1/4" for the bottom piece of Durok? Could I just build up the walls on the bottom 10 inches with mud in order to make it flush to the 1/2" walls?
When you stapled the pan liner, did it require any kind of special corrosion/rust resistant staples?
Great video. Alot better than the others I watched for this drain. Great job, I feel very good about installing it now
8
I swear we're the only plumbers with socket sets
I noticed on your video, that you didn't recess the wood(studs), to accommodate the folding of the membrane, that once folded, it creates a bulk and by consequence the bottom of the tile install scoops out, so how would you avoid the bulk on completing the wall (cement board or whatever element you use) ?
Isn't there going to be mortar/ thinset on top of that ?
I tuck the edges nicely inside the studs like you are talking about. He floats his walls out to plumb his walls I used to do this but like my schlutter jolly edge to sit flush and true with the outside drywall edge. This also may take drywall floating for the cleanest finish.
Thanks bro Tomorrow I am gonna do it by myself for my New bathroom.
Sweet dude thanks for the video! Gonna give this a shot
How you doing … I been watching your videos for over a week now great job … but I’m a little indecisive now which way to go with my shower … You go multiple ways on your walls and pans… I already experienced a bad shower and had major damages and now looking for trusted product to avoid another nightmare… I understand the installer is the one that must know how to install what ever product to go with … can you recommend my product ?
Thanks.
I do have some questions. I’ve been building showers for 35 years and build lots of them.
Why do you have your board up already? It seems more logical to lap your full sheets of wall board down over the membrane to just shy of the bottom. I use go-board. 100% waterproof. That way you can start fastening it about 6” up and it has a more even surface than installing strips like you’ll have to do there. Also I’m not crazy about having horizontal seems that close to the floor. Lots and lots of moisture down that low. Any mistake in seem sealing and you’ll have a real problem down that low. Also I’ve never sliced the membrane to do the curb corner. There is a fold and tuck method that doesn’t require any cutting inside the shower. 👍👍
Great video. You're one of the few who explained how to cover the curb.
I learned the trade from my dad and the tricky part that I cant seem to find an instructional video on is after I put the rubber liner on the curb. When I go to wrap it with cement board what would be the proper way of cement boarding the inside curb??? I can send you my email if youd rather respond through that I know everyone on the internet is an opinionated inspector.
@@cubancigar14i9 you can buy pre formed curbs bro. You should check them out. Drop the pan in seal it up and drop your preformed curb on top and nail to the front of the curb not the top or inside.
@@josephmerkle398 thanks for the reply, I've used those pre foamed curbs too
but I mean in the instances where I'm wrapping 2x4 curbs with cement board. I'm curious to hear how other guys screw there curbs together when they wrap it with cement board
How do you deal with the extra thick corners were you fold the pan? And what do you fill the bottom 8 inches with on the wall? Thanks, your videos are very informative.
Great video. Wish you showed how to put the liner on the shower bench as well though
Dewalt Flex Torque 40 piece are awesome impact bits. They don't jump out like that of the other bits i've used.
love it I have old house do not think the floor can handle wieght of a floated pan?
Oatey pan liner has an instructional video that is also very easy to follow. Although the way they show how the liner is cut over the curb seems simpler and more watertight.
I build my benches out of cinder block. That way there's no way they can ever deteriorate. Skim coat with thinset when you are done and waterproof, they are good forever.
I love the fact that you realize it is important to pre-pitch your pan. As far as the weep holes go though, you should just put pea gravel around them allowing for water to get through all of it.
tom styer good idea, what about on wood floor two story house? Thinking about new tiled shower with bench.
@@stevelopez372 I live in Ohio so just about everything is over wood floors. a shower setup is still the same no matter where you're at though. Everything requires a pan liner to be installed. Just make sure you level the area the bench is going to be built on.
You can check out some of my pictures at Tom's Tile on FB.
Cinder block bench is great idea
That's a nice job My name is Mike a been at this for 44 years and 61 when still in good shape to continue on doing great work with marble and granite. What was very important back when I was your age is I took galvanized wire laugh and bent it over the curb classically and then I'm rise It off the curb and then re bend it tighter when I've noticed is as you put it back in you don't need any nails isn't that special. The edge of a cut wire laugh is teat a factory edge of the material is in the shower floor area the exterior part is what's cut normally it's about 10" wide and probly 4' long. Now think of the idea of mixing sand and cement with an set and putting his scratch coat vertically and horizontally but not on the outside leave that for later.. Now the fun part is is a nonstick material which I liked use well me I have a sealed piece of plywood as you mud the inside vertical on the curb what you need to understand is that you could put brace wood clamps I'd old care but when you pull it after it dries guess what happens you have a beautiful surface to tile on is and a great.. And by the way there's a trick to the trade out good at makes your sand and cement for your dry pack into buckets by using your drill think about it political water and add a little samat makes it up by your screeds makes little more up guess what you don't have to chop it up with a whole anymore it's pretty simple to do just learn how to do-it-yourself because you guys are good at what you do thank you.
socket for bolts helps, we use a hot mop to seal pans up to the blocking, have never used a liner yet on a pan but nice job bro!
It’s interesting how trades change their scope. I’m a plumber. I started in 99 and then did it til about 2005. Then I got back in the trade in about 2015. In the early 2000s we always did the shower pans using shower pan liner. Now other than drains the only thing we do is put the test on. I understand with fiberglass pans because that’s not something plumbers or tilers would want to invest training and tools for but everything else I’m curious why plumbers don’t do them especially when it’s usually on our permit so if it fails we fail even if we didn’t do it. It’s the same with counter tops. We used to cut all our holes for sinks and lavs but now the cabinet guys do it.
Like the use of the existing materials to counter the prefab corners
So I read a lot of the comments and, jeez, what a bunch of haters. From what I saw, your liner had a drain penetration + the bolts. It's a SHOWER, folks!! Not a swimming pool Water still runs down hill in 2019
How do you account for the difference in thickness between the backboard and pan liner?
thinset
4:05
So... the Caulking is already dry?
Or did that after apply the Caulking?
Hey exactly how i do it, but i did get a good laugh when you used chanel locks to tighten the drain flange that was funny. Ok and hot mopping is still probably the best way to seal my opinion.
Only pan liner cement/glue that's worth a sh1t is Pasco. I've had problems with all the rest but Pasco has never failed me....
Thanks for the info man my boss asked me to tile his bathroom and I haven’t done tile in 6 years (been a concrete guy since). Putting in the membrane right now appreciate the video
I’m here to grow as well my man! Great stuff. The only thing I would do different when cutting the holes for the bolts and drain hole is that I would cut out an X instead of the actual shape of the hole. All it does is create another secure way for the water to only go down the hole. Basically creates flaps that point down the drain hole. Either way, great video and very informative. Thanks.
There are female threads inside the drain hole. If you leave flaps, there is no way to thread the adjustable drain to the drain body. The flaps will block the threads. The video doesnt show the the adjustable drain threaded in yet, so this may sound confusing...
Thanx for the up load, awesome job
What do you think of installing the 2x4 curb about 3/4 short of the wall on both sides ( so basically the 2x4's don't go all the way left and right) now when installing the liner you can tuck the liner in that gap ? This can enable the liner to be completely seamless over the curb and the side of the curb where you had used those patches.....I have done it both ways , but like the tuck method. I round the edge of the 2x4 at the top also, so its not to sharp against the liner.
I enjoy watching your videos I’ve learned a lot. I have one question how would you shower liner a wall if it was a block wall with plaster on one side
Nice folding work on those curb corners I do exactly the same.
I watch your channel always good to learn more updated!!!
believe that's don't work we'll like this's back wall folding side wall's under the curb cutting extra material make much better work like that
Before putting the deck mud on top of the vinyl liner, do you spread a layer of thinset across the vinyl to bond with mud?
Finally a real tile setter and a real mud set pan. Only suggestion 24 hr. water test.
Once you’ve done it a handful of time with no failure. You know these are good, it’s extremely hard to pierce the liner. Where’s the water going to go? Clients want the job done yesterday. If there no inspection there’s no need. If it’s liquid applied or sealant than yes always water test.
@@kurtismoeller1512 Building permit requirements
A real water test will be after 5 yrs! My money is on his curb being trashed and his seat as well! A 24 hr water test just says the corners were folded correctly ! Since the seat is outside the shower pan it doesnt address the problems that are bound to occur there! But then again how do you wood frame a seat thats going to not be affected by water if it IS inside the pan? If you do (frame it) ,and ,water test it ,the wood frame would be sitting in the water ! So how do you do it then? Answer is you build the seat and curb out of solid masonary but that requires a very high skill level to get it right so that the tile is nice and flat and the corners are nice and square! Not many people these days have a clue about building showers like that! That includes this guy I bet! It takes too long and its expensive as hell! We live in a time crunch society and no one is willing to spend the time and money to do it this way anymore! So you get guys like this who throw this shit together so it lasts just past the warranty of a few yrs! One year by law!
@@kurtismoeller1512its not hard at all to pierce the liner! Stop with your silly broken english advice that makes no grammatical sense! Or learn to proof read one of the 2!
Hy. good morning. I am watching your video. and now I am a handy guy, do anything with my hands. but I am doing a bathroom walking shower. I am debating to do like tou are doing with the dry packing system or to put back the white fiberboard base / water catcher base. now. my question is can I install that water tite fabric down first and then install the fiberglass shower base water catcher on top ? thanks