Looks great , do you rustproof it as well ? You really should do the headlights , there are a lot of idiot proof kits out there to do it plus once done the graphene products will protect them from yellowing again.
The shop where I learned (how NOT) to detail cars, ALSO did rustproofing, so I learned about that. I had my Camaro rustproofed at that shop 7 years ago. BUT - Knowing what I do NOW, I would never rustproof another car. Rustproofing materials DO NOT FLOW (seep into all the tight cracks and crevices where rust starts). My FIRST CHOICE NOW, would be to have the car oil-sprayed. Oil seeps and creeps EVERYWHERE, preventing salt & other rust-causing materials to even reach sensitive areas, and in the Spring, the oil (usually clean hydraulic oil) can be washed away, taking the crud with it. My "home remedy" is a couple of cans of WD-40 and spraying ALL areas that are prone to rust - door seams & edges on the inside bottom, door jams and hinges, truck/hatchback seams, the leading edge of the hood, etc. Being a penetrating oil, WD-40 creeps EVERYWHERE, and into the tightest cracks and seams. THIS is what I do to the wife's car every year. I've THOUGH about headlights, I actually paid to REPLACE the lights on my brother's 2006 Silverado last year, they were so BAD! On my wife's Escape, only the TOPS of the lights are oxidized, the actual lens part(s) are still crystal clear. It's something I might think about in the future if people ask about it.
If I were forced to chose, and could only keep ONE of the TWHS products, it would be the Ceramic Polish & Wax. It's aggressive enough to enhance or maintain a vehicle's finish, without being TOO aggressive and leaves behind ceramic/wax protection. The only "trick" to using it is to REALLY WORK it into the paint and use it sparingly. A little bit goes a long way.
Nice job done there, it looks amazing for its age, keep up the good work
Thank you
Looks great , do you rustproof it as well ?
You really should do the headlights , there are a lot of idiot proof kits out there to do it plus once done the graphene products will protect them from yellowing again.
The shop where I learned (how NOT) to detail cars, ALSO did rustproofing, so I learned about that. I had my Camaro rustproofed at that shop 7 years ago. BUT - Knowing what I do NOW, I would never rustproof another car. Rustproofing materials DO NOT FLOW (seep into all the tight cracks and crevices where rust starts). My FIRST CHOICE NOW, would be to have the car oil-sprayed. Oil seeps and creeps EVERYWHERE, preventing salt & other rust-causing materials to even reach sensitive areas, and in the Spring, the oil (usually clean hydraulic oil) can be washed away, taking the crud with it. My "home remedy" is a couple of cans of WD-40 and spraying ALL areas that are prone to rust - door seams & edges on the inside bottom, door jams and hinges, truck/hatchback seams, the leading edge of the hood, etc. Being a penetrating oil, WD-40 creeps EVERYWHERE, and into the tightest cracks and seams. THIS is what I do to the wife's car every year.
I've THOUGH about headlights, I actually paid to REPLACE the lights on my brother's 2006 Silverado last year, they were so BAD! On my wife's Escape, only the TOPS of the lights are oxidized, the actual lens part(s) are still crystal clear. It's something I might think about in the future if people ask about it.
I never tried that Polish n wax
If I were forced to chose, and could only keep ONE of the TWHS products, it would be the Ceramic Polish & Wax. It's aggressive enough to enhance or maintain a vehicle's finish, without being TOO aggressive and leaves behind ceramic/wax protection. The only "trick" to using it is to REALLY WORK it into the paint and use it sparingly. A little bit goes a long way.
When 6 hours is hardly enough...lol!
I see you KNOW what's up LMAO