That is exactly what JFK meant when he said "We choose to go to the moon in this decade and do the other thing. Not because they are easy. But because they are hard". The "other thing" was paint your own car.
My old man has done bodywork for almost 50 years. The man has the patience of an elephant I swear. I've seen him throw one tool in anger in 28 years and that was for the sake of a damn PT cruiser.
@@brianhinkemeyer1776 my father was a body and paint man for 27 years before he went into powder coating. He has absolutely no patience when it comes to people. I guess some just do it differently. He just wanted people to leave him alone so he could work on cars.
budget . 50% more than u thought . Time :75% more than u thought . Prep: 100% more time than U thought ... Then it needs to be cut and buffed ..... my advice . Jump in and do it . Plan accordingly.
The problem is trying to find a body shop that will do a full repaint is close to impossible...most prefer the collision/insurance work...others will quote super high prices which is pretty much their way of saying the would rather not do it. So I can see why people would want to try it at home.
So true...I was quoted something around $7000 to paint my squarebody and that's with me doing all the prep work.thats when I decided "patina" would be ok for now
This is awesome advice. I was seriously thinking about painting my 40 Chevy one panel at a time but was worried about color matching since it’s custom. But my lifestyle doesn’t allow for a complete job all at once. So I was very glad to hear you mention your desire to do this NEXT time.
When I was a kid there were still some discount auto paint shops around. My dad would do the prep work and then take it to the discount shop to spray. They would actually lay down a nice job. But this was back in the enamel days. Paint is insanely expensive today. Especially with modern clear coats. You have to spray it three times.
It does help when you tint the primer to a similar color to what your painting .I also use leftover paint from other vehicles similar color of course to cover the primer first , then the real color and then clear. It saves some money and gets rid of the leftover paint . Just a little tip.
As always, thank you very much for all the time you and Uncle Kathy put into these videos. I truly appreciate it! I learned something with every video.
Nice wish I had the balls to paint my ride but its hard as hell to paint a quality paint job. You have to be a master pro at it to accomplish a professional paint job. I'm the type of guy to go to a body shop and pay high dollars to paint my ride but the only thing is I'm broke so I would have to start learning to repaint my huge long suburban. Keep up the good work and get that car looking good👍I appreciate a professional painter.
UT your right on. I'm 78 and have done it all, more than 1/2 pro. Your right about the time, every thing I do now,,, if I think it will take 5 min. More than likely it will take a hour. I love your show I always learn something thanks
We painted my '66 Wildcat Sport Coupe in my broter-in-laws garage. We used a basecoat and and a clearcoat. The basecoat went on great, except a small blue spurt, unbelievably in the same spot 3 times, on the white roof. Drove Gordy nuts. He worked on it and worked on it. Finally, he had it how he wanted it. Then clearcoat, same spot, blue again. Grrrrr...... We finlly got it done, now, some Orange Peel. I told him that I would take care of it. It looks good, just needs a little work. I am grateful for all his work.
I have painted a bunch of my cars, did a frame off resto on my 65 GTO, and it was stupid rusty. I made it into a daily driver with a big engine, lots of power, overdrive trans, and a kick ass stereo. Two years of metal work, and another year putting it all together and making it a driver. Ok honestly my GTO was scrap when I started. I do paint jobs on my cars because it costs me less cash to do it myself. I get tired of doing metal bending/shaping/bumping, and end up hating the sanding and filling, so when that happens I build an engine or transmission, maybe some suspension work. Cover my hands in grease instead of dust... then I go back to sanding and bumping. I don't have lots of cash, but I have lots of cars. That means I gotta do it myself, whatever the hell it is. Today I finished putting a set of Ram Air III heads on a shortblock that has been in 7 or 8 vehicles of mine. Next I am going to put the fuel system together on my street strip toy since the AN fittings showed from Summit today. Had to go get some rocker studs from a chevy friend because my rockers needed 7/16 studs and Pontiacs have screw in studs from the factory. How hard, how much time, how much money.. meh I don't care. What matters to me is enjoying it while I am driving it after its done enough. Paint does take a stupid amount of work, its why it costs so much to have it done for you.
Tony, your decades of knowledge and experience is paying off. It's good to see and receive from. I just painted my van with 100% latex acrylic, left over paint from when I was going to paint a mobile home. Management said the color was too dark. So after 8 years of this paint sitting in a closet, I opened a can and there was not separation. Looked just like it was just taken off the shelf. I remember the paint guy said that this green was very good paint, unlike the blue I had, even though it was the same style paint. Sure enough, the blue separated, but the green did not. I sprayed it with a Graco electric gun that I used to spray my mobile. I was so impressed by the quality of the spray that I knew it would work for my van. This is not the kind of paint you want to wax and make look shiny. It looks a lot like implement paint. It sure hides things. However several times a day the sun will hit it right and then there is no hiding anything, but it's good enough for me. It sure sprayed fast and I used Bondo and an electric orbital sander. It was a real quick job. You get what you pay for, but it's good enough for me. Sure sprayed out fast too. Almost 2 gallons of this leftover paint on it. I call it "good". Enjoyed it. You get out of it whatever you put into it.
Bless your heart Tony. Lessons for me painting my truck in my basement. 1. Gotta have dry air in the breathing air and the compressed air you are using. 2. Don't leave any cracks in your curtains surrounding the paint area. 3. There is no such thing as too much light. If it's so bright you have to squint you have half what you need. 4. Don't go nuts with the accelerator/hardener. You ain't no paint and body man so don't act like one.
Tony here's the best advice u can give you from a guy that paints cars for a living. There's a 7 peace set (I believe 7 pieces that is) of Durablock they make ones for PSA paper and ones for hoop n loop paper, for a kit under 80 bucks usually. They will help you out an amazing amount very light weight and ridged enough with slight flex to help go around the body and come in different shapes. Try to find em, buy em, save yourself tons of work and headache
Hi build primer is the best way to go, cut weld grind back fix the dents sand clean it bang 2 hits of hi build on it and block it all back I have painted out side and got good paint jobs better than they should be considering the spraying in environment prep the car put a plastic sheet over it and hang fire timing is everything no wind and watch the heat.
I’ve painted a lot of cars but I never give anybody grief over learning curves because I respect anybody that goes through the suffering and agony to get good at anything.
3 words- My Friend Pete! hees on youtube I call myself a sufficent painter my pops was magic with a binks or devilbiss gun but that cranky cuss Pete tells TONS of tricks!!
I painted my duster at home, turned out okay. Wet sand and some polish and it turned out AWESOME! Alltough we only polished doors, trunk and the roof and have the rest of the car to do.
I build concours show cars from the ground up.......the engines, the suspensions, the electrical, the interior work, and the body/paint work. Mostly because as a young kid I couldn't afford to pay other people to do it, and also because I wouldn't trust anyone else to do anything to my standards. Started out at 15 years old in our family collision repair business. Working on brand new cars that are all smashed to hell forces you to pay close attention to detail......and that transferred over very nicely to the building of classic cars that are perfect in every way. 30 years later I'm still building dream cars because it's rewarding to me and fun to play with the cars I lusted after when I was a kid.
I knew this old guy who used to restore english cars (he's passed away sadly) and he didn't user dent pullers or porta powers. He would take the panel and pull pressure on it and leave it over a week sometimes, he would add and remove counterweights and actually let the metal relax back into it's original shape and not need to do much hammering and dollying at all in comparison to other methods. It was amazing to watch and I've never seen anyone do it like that since, more and more skills like this are going by the wayside now, everybody wants done and gone crap.
Very, very good point about the tutorial videos Tony. The ones making those videos do it for a living (usually) and any mistakes they make few and far between. I learned to play the mandolin by watching RUclips videos, and I was thinking "geesh this guy/gal makes it look easy". Well there's a reason for that....its because it is easy.....FOR THEM! It was a good lesson in patience and perseverance for me, and it's a good reminder that anytime you watch these types of videos that once upon a time those people sucked and went through the same thing that you're going through now. Nobody starts out a pro, but it's a good feeling when you go back and go over what you've done and you can see progress and you can see how you sucked a little less with each lesson. Again, good point to bring up Tony.
Tony it is so very true 95% of the outcome is prep. I painted the tank, side covers and tail piece of my old rice grinder, '78 Suzuki GS750E. I used acrylic lacquer and then found it takes a very very long time to cure. To boot finish coat no wet sand as the color is stage black w/mica. NO paint booth, no temp control will never be a show stopper.
For a cheap little gun to do small areas , I got a husky detail gun. It only holds like 4oz , but it was enough to prime the underside of a hood once. And I had to do some trim pieces with it that were right in the open. the finish came out 100x better than some rattle can. I've accumulated some cheap brush on paints like Rust-Oleum and thin it out and use that little gun for alot of parts painting on cars. The finish alone is worth it , so much nicer than any spray can.
I am a 28 yr certified heavy truck and auto painter and body man . Its hard, stressful but rewarding in the end . Tony try to paint it in the shop in the morning when its cool.. use a high temp hardener so the paint wont dry so fast . That will give you more time to get around the car and not have dry spray . LOL just a few tips , not trying to spew to much info . Hope this helps you . Cant wait to see it .
Uncle Tony's speaking the truth. Just got my 78 Z28 painted at home and I was having to force dedication to it to get it to that point. Would come out in the morning not wanting to touch sandpaper and body filler but by the end of the day I couldn't put the stuff down because I got myself so zoned in on it. For me getting started is the hard part. I just gotta force it and it will cascade from there.
I have done the body work and painted three cars for myself, and 20 cars for my friend’s back yard shop in the late 1970’s. We were fighting Northeast Ohio rust, we pulled all chrome, I never painted outside. All gutters and inner fender wells and door jambs were cleaned. We needed to control dust and bugs. To control insects, we sprayed laquer paint thinner to knock down any summer insects, then we washed the car off with naphtha gas to remove any oils and used cheesecloth to make sure all dust was off the car. We started the spray with all doors open with interiors, such as trunk, engine, car interior all masked off. The spray was started in the door jambs, then the doors closed on second catch, then in the hood and the trunk, we had a weight on a wire to 90% close the trunk. We left the hood closed on 2nd catch. We used the non gravity fed Binks and had a separate one for primer and paint. We kept the paint Binks full of laquer thinner until 2 hours before use to keep all passages clear, then cleaned it by spraying it then dumped most of it out then cleaned the cup and sprayed the head dry. We used PPG enamel paint with hardener and a few drops of fish eye additive to guarantee adherence.
I know what you mean Tony. I'm currently doing some body work on one of my trucks and you don't realize how many scratches dings and imperfections you actually have until you start fixing them. I'm just glad I'm only doing the cab and putting a flat bed on it. It's a 79 Dodge W150 that I'm actually making into a " old school wrecker " when I'm finished with it I'll email you some pictures of it.
I have mad respect to all the auto body guys out there , what a thankless job you guys have . Always on deadlines , angry customers , waiting on parts or paint to dry . Etc etc . Cheers
Amen. Bought a 95 BMW with peeling paint and minor repairs. Repairs done in two days... paint and body almost a YEAR! Every time I primed and blocked found a new defect. With dark green paint it ALL had to be fixed. Turned out great! Son in law scuffed it within 3 months, front end got smashed due to flat bed operator not tying it right just six months ago. Body work= back breaking then heartbreaking. DONT GIVE UP!!
I love this video. I have painted cars since I was in high school and now after 38 years of doing it I'm still learning. It takes me forever to do a car because I can't leave anything alone once I start on it.
back in the early 70s a professional painter told me use RustOleum. its good paint and easy to deal with. just be patient and let it dry properly. he also told me rust oleum thinning oil is really mineral spirits. 4 of the paint jobs I did that way and they turned out good.
You should have learned from your Road Runner back in the late 80's. I remember you sitting in the driveway with a plumber's torch and hammer and dolly removing body filler and repairing all the dents.
G'day uncle Tony and uncle Kathy l have over the years prepped and painted my own cars and the prep work is the pain in the butt the long hours the dust not too mention pulling door & window trim off my current project l decided pull it apart start with initial prep and then sent off to be professional painted and back to me to assemble l save over $5000. On do this so that's my comprise but uncle Tony this is my last car no more looking forward to seeing it finished you guys rock love your honesty and just plain talk regards Anthony from down under ps can't wait for bottle rocket either for another run
Gave up board sanders in the early '80s. Paint sticks is where it's is. Trick is, ya gotta dig in gramps basement for the old thick, flat ones. Modern ones are all concave/convex. Good show!
I am taking advice you gave at the end. It makes perfect sense. The subject vehicle is a 1990 extended cab long bed F250. A lot of realestate to to cover. I am going to start with the hood. It is dent free and most of the paint is off it anyway.
I learned to paint when my Dad, who has now passed, got old and started wrecking his cars. Always painted the fender, bumper cover, or hood separately and then bolted them to the car. Then I moved on to a few of my old vehicles. I've spent some money on decent name brand guns only to find the Harbor Freight or Cambell Hausfields work better. Of course, tip size needs to be selected for the type of paint. Especially metallic. I like to buy my paint without the reducer in it, because you can play with the ratio a little to accomplish the shine you want. Be careful though, too much reducer and it will all roll off the car. Good luck Tony!
Ahhh my first car. Minnesota rust rotted 1969 Buick Skylark... three gallons of bondo over torch brazed in (coat hanger for brazing rod) tin on the rotted rear quarter panels. Mostly spray can lacquer primer. I traded a pair of 6x9 speakers to the older brother of a friend to actually spray it in a garage. I was as always short on cash so I should have bought a gallon of paint but only got three quarts due to a cash shortage...so three quarts of Lime green poly in the most inexpensive paint NAPA had, Martin Senor "Synthol" enamel (basically what I call cheap tractor paint these days) for $40 plus tax. Car looked like it had stripes, to accompany all the waves from being sanded with a Black and Decker 4" palm sander. :) This was circa 1983.
Just finished up a mirror finish paint job on a 68 Camaro after i did a quarter panel sectioning, and tubbed it out. Body work and paint over mechanical anyday but im still a combo guy at 22 years old!
I paint everyday and I think this is a Great video as far as expectations are concerned....I suggest sticking with single stage paint like Uncle Tony has done....YEAH THOSE METALLIC/PEARL/MICA base coat colors pop but very few guys or gals will get it right....Ive seen a lot of show cars with expensive metallic paint jobs done by pros that are zebra striped or worse...dont think you can get a metallic base coat right doing it only once in a blue moon..what is gonna be your biggest gremlin is gonna be dirt...hose down the floor with water if you paint in a garage...make sure to have a moisture filter on your compressor and on your air line...
I feel your pain.. check out the 69 340 4spd swinger I did for my brother on my channel. Of all colors, Black. And yes all work done in my brothers garage. I made the dash pad, although there’s no pad, only for the gauges. Your videos have been a great help in tuning this car! Thx UT!!
I restored a 1968 442 W30 about 25 years ago. Body and paint took about 2 months, 4 hours a day 6 days a week. I'm an amateur and after stripping the paint, the body was near perfect condition, no rust, and no dents. I had an air board, DA, and was still so tired of sanding I swore I'd never do it again.
Uncle Tony's Garage , perfect timing just bought some duplicolor paint shop jet black base , primer, clear coat.. been working on a sn95 248a code mustang (factory lightweight) for 2 years getting it back to a fun street beater along with a forever of sanding an threatening mustang with a 3lb hammer to act right when no ones around it looks ehh at best haha
as always very informative uncle Tony. thank you for your time amd for sharing your vast knowledge, expertise and experience. you are the average man's car guru.
It should be called a sand job not a paint job . I have spent the last 6 months on and off sanding my Chevy truck and finally got the cab fenders and doors sprayed at least they turned out looking like glass ,now I got to do the bed your right Tony if you think it will take a week plan for a month.
Easy way to decide if you really want to do this kind of work is to visit your local junk yard, find a hood damaged on only one side and work on it till both sides match. It's good practice if you need it. I'd recommend something small like a mini cooper to start with!
I do custom paint and body for a living, it’s hard to explain to people what seems really simple to me is very difficult for others it came natural to me but kinda relate it to trying to explain your knowledge of nitro and airflow carbeuration etc it’s all relative, you need patience to do high end paint and the steps seem assenine but it’s worth it in the end if you think it’s good enough keep going lol I really appreciate your time
Painting is easy as long as you have the proper equipment. Its the prep work and sanding and then the wetsanding and polishing after paint that takes time. I frame off restored a 58 chevy in about a year in my garage one piece at a time. Its the 2nd car i ever painted and it turned out beautiful thanks to wetsanding afterward. The problem with garage paint jobs is you can never get the environment clean enough to prevent dust and trash in your paint. Its always got to be sanded out after the fact. Having the passion for finishing a project is the most important thing. If you arent into it it will never get done. RUclips is the best resource for learning some good tricks and methods so as not to waste time doing things more than once. After i finished painting it then i had to fix and polish all the stainless trim. Imagine about 40 pieces of stainless each taking 3 or 4 hours to fix and finish. Yea you gotta want it real bad to keep at it. Getting burned out is all to easy if youre not careful. Breaking it up into pieces in the best way to avoid that. Making your own door panels is another challenge that involves another skill set.
I call my 73 Mustang an engine stand. It's gonna get some basic bondo/fiberglass and tractor enamel. Later when I get a vacuum pump and some time I want to make some molds for carbon fiber. I figure I'll start with the fenders, then hood and trunk lid, then doors, and finally I'll try to tackle the unibody. I'll get back to you in ten years.
I grew up helping my grandfather and dad fix up and sell man clear title salvage cars back in the 60's and 70's. When other kids were playing Little League I was sanding! Fortunate to have learned how to use real lead with Maple paddles vs Bondo. I myself still prefer using the good old reliable Devilbiss suction cup style gun to the HVLP cup on the top guns!
I like your philosophy Tony it's the same thing for anything you're going to paint if you're going to paint a kitchen wall if you're going to paint the outside of your house it's all about prepping and when you get into taking care of the wall in your kitchen that's when you start noticing you got to wave you all you want to smooth it you see another wall same old thing the principles of a good job are the same no matter what project you're trying to tackle
I would love for you to go in depth on body work, show us a fender that needs body work, bondo prep etc the whole nine yards. Would love to learn that from you Tony
Yep agreed it is hard, and I am coming across problems with both primer and paint, but its a learning process. . . Not to mention the Bondo work I am doing to one small area, fun, fun, fun. Which reminds me I need to buy more 320, 600, and 1000 grit sand paper.
I'm in the middle of doing the body on my pickup now. Living in the Northeast, salt has taken its toll. I'm replacing cab corners, rocker panels, door bottoms and front fenders. I'm about halfway through the bodywork now. Thankfully, I don't have to be a perfectionist because I'm using a product called Monstaliner on it. But I've been driving it since I bought it new in 1994 and it has 260k on it, so I don't mind putting the work into it. It's been my daily driver for 26 years, still on the original ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, CV joints, alternator, power steering pump, master cylinder, etc. Doesn't even burn a drop of oil. It's worth doing the body!
What kind of truck is it? Just curious. I bought a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 brand new 20 yrs ago, with the 2.7 liter 3RZ motor & automatic.......but I've got 352k miles on it. Runs & drives great. All original CV joints, front end components, wheel bearings, shocks, starter & alternator ( both are Denso ), etc. The only things I've replaced once so far, is the U-joints ( just recently )...... 1 radiator, and 1 valve cover gasket. It could use as new set of shocks though.....and a paint job. Mine doesn't burn a drop of oil either. It's been my only driver since I got it & I wouldn't get rid of it for anything. I don't have to worry about salted roads here in Florida, and I don't live near the beach. No major rust. Cheers.
I just painted my Land Cruiser with Monstaliner. Your bodywork still needs to be 90% good. There's a few spots on mine you can see where I should have spent more time, but you can only see it under side lighting
Howabouthetruth it's a 1994 Chevy K1500 extended cab, 350ci, 4L60E tranny, F44 build package so it came with the tranny cooler and 14-bolt rear end instead of the wimpy car 10-bolt that usually comes in half ton Chevy trucks.
Uncle Tony, New subscriber here from Canada. I've been binge watching your channel to get caught up. Just fantastic!!! I've learned a ton of cool stuff. You teach like a friend. I was able to put some theory to work on a...a...Phord. I'm a Mopar man myself. I'm a child of the 70's/80's so turbo stuff is my poison mostly due to availability when the car bug bit me. I'm one of those sickos that does body and mechanical because I'm not so smart and enjoy punishment at every point. Thanks for being a pure car guy. I'm in. Gotta go beat the shit outta my jacks to pull an axle and do a back rotor on an F-350 now. I don't like Phords so much...and alot of my friends own one. I need better friends! Btw. I wasted half a beer through my nose with the 'I could drink a pint of paint and piss the color on it' line........You sir, are the Champion. Well done.
I painted my '51 Dodge flat grey in 1961 with the spray attachment on my Grandmother's Electrolux blow end. It could have only turned out better if I'd used orange paint. I told my friends that people work hard to achieve that texture, but they keep ending up with smooth. But hey, I painted it, eh?
Tony I applaud your patience, its so much work and you're doing a great job. Years ago I started to paint my car, I put months into it and just as it was getting close my neighbor called the cops on me and said I was running a body shop. I had to keep it from rusting so I grabbed a gallon of Rustoleum, and a gallon of mineral spirits and sprayed the car black. It was passible I just wish i got to follow through like you are. Good luck!
I have lived through two home paint jobs. The fist time, you just don't know what you don't know; you just have to live through it. One word of advice that you don't touch on, buy the sanding blocks. They come in kits of various sizes and shapes and are worth every penny.
If you have to ask, "Is it sanded enough?" No. The answer is no.
until you sand a damn hole in the paint down to the bare metal lol!
To every auto body technician in the world...
God bless you!
Thank you!
THANKS
Well said..speaking nothing but the truth 🤝
That is exactly what JFK meant when he said "We choose to go to the moon in this decade and do the other thing. Not because they are easy. But because they are hard". The "other thing" was paint your own car.
When I heard him I thought he forgot what that other thing was
My old man has done bodywork for almost 50 years. The man has the patience of an elephant I swear. I've seen him throw one tool in anger in 28 years and that was for the sake of a damn PT cruiser.
Well to be fair I’m a tech of 35 years PT cruisers make me throw a fit every time lol
The Delaware Ranch The damn alternator... what dumbass engineer decided to tuck it in where they put it is a damn fool. Hated that car lol
Oh my god pt cruiser s suck
@@brianhinkemeyer1776 my father was a body and paint man for 27 years before he went into powder coating. He has absolutely no patience when it comes to people. I guess some just do it differently. He just wanted people to leave him alone so he could work on cars.
@@brianhinkemeyer1776 Ford escape 3.0 alternator
budget . 50% more than u thought .
Time :75% more than u thought .
Prep: 100% more time than U thought ...
Then it needs to be cut and buffed .....
my advice . Jump in and do it . Plan accordingly.
silverbird58 correct. My father did 33 years at GM .. last 15 months in paint shop. Retired in 99
That time and prep is light
A man of all trades Great teacher a honest man keep it up learning alot
The problem is trying to find a body shop that will do a full repaint is close to impossible...most prefer the collision/insurance work...others will quote super high prices which is pretty much their way of saying the would rather not do it. So I can see why people would want to try it at home.
So true...I was quoted something around $7000 to paint my squarebody and that's with me doing all the prep work.thats when I decided "patina" would be ok for now
This is awesome advice. I was seriously thinking about painting my 40 Chevy one panel at a time but was worried about color matching since it’s custom. But my lifestyle doesn’t allow for a complete job all at once. So I was very glad to hear you mention your desire to do this NEXT time.
I have painted 6 vehicles. the first one not so good. it got better as I learned. I agree with you this job is difficult and taxing on the patience.
The Swinger is looking great so far Uncle Tony, can't wait to see it when it's done!
When I was a kid there were still some discount auto paint shops around. My dad would do the prep work and then take it to the discount shop to spray. They would actually lay down a nice job. But this was back in the enamel days. Paint is insanely expensive today. Especially with modern clear coats. You have to spray it three times.
It does help when you tint the primer to a similar color to what your painting .I also use leftover paint from other vehicles similar color of course to cover the primer first , then the real color and then clear. It saves some money and gets rid of the leftover paint . Just a little tip.
As always, thank you very much for all the time you and Uncle Kathy put into these videos. I truly appreciate it! I learned something with every video.
Nice wish I had the balls to paint my ride but its hard as hell to paint a quality paint job. You have to be a master pro at it to accomplish a professional paint job. I'm the type of guy to go to a body shop and pay high dollars to paint my ride but the only thing is I'm broke so I would have to start learning to repaint my huge long suburban. Keep up the good work and get that car looking good👍I appreciate a professional painter.
UT your right on. I'm 78 and have done it all, more than 1/2 pro. Your right about the time, every thing I do now,,, if I think it will take 5 min. More than likely it will take a hour. I love your show I always learn something thanks
We painted my '66 Wildcat Sport Coupe in my broter-in-laws garage. We used a basecoat and and a clearcoat. The basecoat went on great, except a small blue spurt, unbelievably in the same spot 3 times, on the white roof. Drove Gordy nuts. He worked on it and worked on it. Finally, he had it how he wanted it. Then clearcoat, same spot, blue again. Grrrrr...... We finlly got it done, now, some Orange Peel. I told him that I would take care of it. It looks good, just needs a little work. I am grateful for all his work.
In the process of painting my Chevy crew cab . Painting fun , sanding not fun . Love you uncle Tony .
I like your humility and honesty Tony!
"Budget for coffee. Gallons and gallons of coffee." Best advice ever given.
Add cigarettes to the list.
I have painted a bunch of my cars, did a frame off resto on my 65 GTO, and it was stupid rusty. I made it into a daily driver with a big engine, lots of power, overdrive trans, and a kick ass stereo. Two years of metal work, and another year putting it all together and making it a driver. Ok honestly my GTO was scrap when I started.
I do paint jobs on my cars because it costs me less cash to do it myself. I get tired of doing metal bending/shaping/bumping, and end up hating the sanding and filling, so when that happens I build an engine or transmission, maybe some suspension work. Cover my hands in grease instead of dust... then I go back to sanding and bumping.
I don't have lots of cash, but I have lots of cars. That means I gotta do it myself, whatever the hell it is. Today I finished putting a set of Ram Air III heads on a shortblock that has been in 7 or 8 vehicles of mine. Next I am going to put the fuel system together on my street strip toy since the AN fittings showed from Summit today. Had to go get some rocker studs from a chevy friend because my rockers needed 7/16 studs and Pontiacs have screw in studs from the factory.
How hard, how much time, how much money.. meh I don't care. What matters to me is enjoying it while I am driving it after its done enough. Paint does take a stupid amount of work, its why it costs so much to have it done for you.
YOU A WISE MAN..
I did read it all
Tony, your decades of knowledge and experience is paying off. It's good to see and receive from.
I just painted my van with 100% latex acrylic, left over paint from when I was going to paint a mobile home. Management said the color was too dark. So after 8 years of this paint sitting in a closet, I opened a can and there was not separation. Looked just like it was just taken off the shelf. I remember the paint guy said that this green was very good paint, unlike the blue I had, even though it was the same style paint. Sure enough, the blue separated, but the green did not.
I sprayed it with a Graco electric gun that I used to spray my mobile. I was so impressed by the quality of the spray that I knew it would work for my van.
This is not the kind of paint you want to wax and make look shiny. It looks a lot like implement paint. It sure hides things. However several times a day the sun will hit it right and then there is no hiding anything, but it's good enough for me. It sure sprayed fast and I used Bondo and an electric orbital sander. It was a real quick job. You get what you pay for, but it's good enough for me. Sure sprayed out fast too. Almost 2 gallons of this leftover paint on it. I call it "good". Enjoyed it. You get out of it whatever you put into it.
I feel your pain I'm doing the same on my 54 savoy.have a good day
The whole 'that you can wax' line resonated hardcore 😂
I laughed out loud at that.
Bless your heart Tony. Lessons for me painting my truck in my basement.
1. Gotta have dry air in the breathing air and the compressed air you are using.
2. Don't leave any cracks in your curtains surrounding the paint area.
3. There is no such thing as too much light. If it's so bright you have to squint you have half what you need.
4. Don't go nuts with the accelerator/hardener. You ain't no paint and body man so don't act like one.
Tony here's the best advice u can give you from a guy that paints cars for a living. There's a 7 peace set (I believe 7 pieces that is) of Durablock they make ones for PSA paper and ones for hoop n loop paper, for a kit under 80 bucks usually. They will help you out an amazing amount very light weight and ridged enough with slight flex to help go around the body and come in different shapes. Try to find em, buy em, save yourself tons of work and headache
Here's a link to some.
www.eastwood.com/7-piece-sanding-block-kit.html
AJ Dyer i got a set of durablocks,cant wait to be at finish sanding stage.
Hi build primer is the best way to go, cut weld grind back fix the dents sand clean it bang 2 hits of hi build on it and block it all back I have painted out side and got good paint jobs better than they should be considering the spraying in environment prep the car put a plastic sheet over it and hang fire timing is everything no wind and watch the heat.
Thank you. Some day I'd like to paint a couple projects, but I know how big a job it is
I’ve painted a lot of cars but I never give anybody grief over learning curves because I respect anybody that goes through the suffering and agony to get good at anything.
3 words- My Friend Pete!
hees on youtube I call myself a sufficent
painter my pops was magic with a binks
or devilbiss gun but that cranky cuss Pete tells TONS of tricks!!
I painted my duster at home, turned out okay. Wet sand and some polish and it turned out AWESOME!
Alltough we only polished doors, trunk and the roof and have the rest of the car to do.
Tony, you are a legit mopar scion sir. I truly enjoy and benefit from your patience and skills.
I build concours show cars from the ground up.......the engines, the suspensions, the electrical, the interior work, and the body/paint work. Mostly because as a young kid I couldn't afford to pay other people to do it, and also because I wouldn't trust anyone else to do anything to my standards. Started out at 15 years old in our family collision repair business. Working on brand new cars that are all smashed to hell forces you to pay close attention to detail......and that transferred over very nicely to the building of classic cars that are perfect in every way. 30 years later I'm still building dream cars because it's rewarding to me and fun to play with the cars I lusted after when I was a kid.
I knew this old guy who used to restore english cars (he's passed away sadly) and he didn't user dent pullers or porta powers. He would take the panel and pull pressure on it and leave it over a week sometimes, he would add and remove counterweights and actually let the metal relax back into it's original shape and not need to do much hammering and dollying at all in comparison to other methods. It was amazing to watch and I've never seen anyone do it like that since, more and more skills like this are going by the wayside now, everybody wants done and gone crap.
Very, very good point about the tutorial videos Tony. The ones making those videos do it for a living (usually) and any mistakes they make few and far between. I learned to play the mandolin by watching RUclips videos, and I was thinking "geesh this guy/gal makes it look easy". Well there's a reason for that....its because it is easy.....FOR THEM! It was a good lesson in patience and perseverance for me, and it's a good reminder that anytime you watch these types of videos that once upon a time those people sucked and went through the same thing that you're going through now. Nobody starts out a pro, but it's a good feeling when you go back and go over what you've done and you can see progress and you can see how you sucked a little less with each lesson. Again, good point to bring up Tony.
Tony really effort in this perfect daily driver series, thanks! You are my favourite youtuber.
This is quickly becoming my favorite channel your a true bad ass man UTG
Hats off to the paint and body guys. I never had the patience for it. It really takes a certain person to do it and do it well.
I hope this paint job turns out better then you have expected it to, you've certainly put in the work
Me being someone who does paint jobs at home in the shed or in the yard I can confirm this is all very true. Great info.
Tony it is so very true 95% of the outcome is prep. I painted the tank, side covers and tail piece of my old rice grinder, '78 Suzuki GS750E. I used acrylic lacquer and then found it takes a very very long time to cure. To boot finish coat no wet sand as the color is stage black w/mica. NO paint booth, no temp control will never be a show stopper.
For a cheap little gun to do small areas , I got a husky detail gun.
It only holds like 4oz , but it was enough to prime the underside of a hood once.
And I had to do some trim pieces with it that were right in the open. the finish came out 100x better than some rattle can.
I've accumulated some cheap brush on paints like Rust-Oleum and thin it out and use that little gun for alot of parts painting on cars.
The finish alone is worth it , so much nicer than any spray can.
I cannot understand how Uncle Tony does not yet have one million + followers. Love this channel!!!
It's nice seeing someone still in touch with reality enough to admit $300 for paint is a good chunk of change.
...I hear that...everybody else, but me & you, must have money to burn.
talked me out of painting my truck and gained a subscriber while at it. Thanks!
I am a 28 yr certified heavy truck and auto painter and body man . Its hard, stressful but rewarding in the end . Tony try to paint it in the shop in the morning when its cool.. use a high temp hardener so the paint wont dry so fast . That will give you more time to get around the car and not have dry spray . LOL just a few tips , not trying to spew to much info . Hope this helps you . Cant wait to see it .
Uncle Tony's speaking the truth. Just got my 78 Z28 painted at home and I was having to force dedication to it to get it to that point. Would come out in the morning not wanting to touch sandpaper and body filler but by the end of the day I couldn't put the stuff down because I got myself so zoned in on it. For me getting started is the hard part. I just gotta force it and it will cascade from there.
Struggle with the same thing myself!
I have done the body work and painted three cars for myself, and 20 cars for my friend’s back yard shop in the late 1970’s. We were fighting Northeast Ohio rust, we pulled all chrome, I never painted outside. All gutters and inner fender wells and door jambs were cleaned. We needed to control dust and bugs. To control insects, we sprayed laquer paint thinner to knock down any summer insects, then we washed the car off with naphtha gas to remove any oils and used cheesecloth to make sure all dust was off the car. We started the spray with all doors open with interiors, such as trunk, engine, car interior all masked off.
The spray was started in the door jambs, then the doors closed on second catch, then in the hood and the trunk, we had a weight on a wire to 90% close the trunk. We left the hood closed on 2nd catch.
We used the non gravity fed Binks and had a separate one for primer and paint. We kept the paint Binks full of laquer thinner until 2 hours before use to keep all passages clear, then cleaned it by spraying it then dumped most of it out then cleaned the cup and sprayed the head dry. We used PPG enamel paint with hardener and a few drops of fish eye additive to guarantee adherence.
I know what you mean Tony. I'm currently doing some body work on one of my trucks and you don't realize how many scratches dings and imperfections you actually have until you start fixing them. I'm just glad I'm only doing the cab and putting a flat bed on it. It's a 79 Dodge W150 that I'm actually making into a " old school wrecker " when I'm finished with it I'll email you some pictures of it.
I have mad respect to all the auto body guys out there , what a thankless job you guys have . Always on deadlines , angry customers , waiting on parts or paint to dry . Etc etc . Cheers
Amen. Bought a 95 BMW with peeling paint and minor repairs. Repairs done in two days... paint and body almost a YEAR! Every time I primed and blocked found a new defect. With dark green paint it ALL had to be fixed. Turned out great! Son in law scuffed it within 3 months, front end got smashed due to flat bed operator not tying it right just six months ago. Body work= back breaking then heartbreaking. DONT GIVE UP!!
You should do the2k epoxy primer, rustoleum, 2k clear coat thing. Rattle can.😀
I'm following the same method as uncle Tony on a 59 stepside. Work on /paint 1 piece at a time. Just like eating an elephant. Good Stuff Tony !
I love this video. I have painted cars since I was in high school and now after 38 years of doing it I'm still learning. It takes me forever to do a car because I can't leave anything alone once I start on it.
Your daily driver is a dodge dart swinger... I am now subbed to you for the rest of my life.
Love this stuff. Wish I was closer and had the time, I’d come down and help!
Man Toney this is so true I’ve been there and I give you a ton of credit for sticking to it
back in the early 70s a professional painter told me use RustOleum. its good paint and easy to deal with. just be patient and let it dry properly. he also told me rust oleum thinning oil is really mineral spirits. 4 of the paint jobs I did that way and they turned out good.
You should have learned from your Road Runner back in the late 80's. I remember you sitting in the driveway with a plumber's torch and hammer and dolly removing body filler and repairing all the dents.
In Tony’s defense that door/fender was pretty bad. It’s hard to straiten the metal that stretched
G'day uncle Tony and uncle Kathy l have over the years prepped and painted my own cars and the prep work is the pain in the butt the long hours the dust not too mention pulling door & window trim off my current project l decided pull it apart start with initial prep and then sent off to be professional painted and back to me to assemble l save over $5000. On do this so that's my comprise but uncle Tony this is my last car no more looking forward to seeing it finished you guys rock love your honesty and just plain talk regards Anthony from down under ps can't wait for bottle rocket either for another run
Gave up board sanders in the early '80s. Paint sticks is where it's is.
Trick is, ya gotta dig in gramps basement for the old thick, flat ones.
Modern ones are all concave/convex. Good show!
I am taking advice you gave at the end. It makes perfect sense. The subject vehicle is a 1990 extended cab long bed F250. A lot of realestate to to cover. I am going to start with the hood. It is dent free and most of the paint is off it anyway.
I learned to paint when my Dad, who has now passed, got old and started wrecking his cars. Always painted the fender, bumper cover, or hood separately and then bolted them to the car. Then I moved on to a few of my old vehicles. I've spent some money on decent name brand guns only to find the Harbor Freight or Cambell Hausfields work better. Of course, tip size needs to be selected for the type of paint. Especially metallic. I like to buy my paint without the reducer in it, because you can play with the ratio a little to accomplish the shine you want. Be careful though, too much reducer and it will all roll off the car. Good luck Tony!
You do what u want to do. I will always be along on the magical bus ride that is Uncle Tony.😃
Restoration Shop Paint? Love your honesty and telling it like it is. Working a paint job at home right now - hoping by October at this rate.
Uncle Tony is a man of great knowledge, when he speaks listen and shut up
Ahhh my first car. Minnesota rust rotted 1969 Buick Skylark... three gallons of bondo over torch brazed in (coat hanger for brazing rod) tin on the rotted rear quarter panels. Mostly spray can lacquer primer. I traded a pair of 6x9 speakers to the older brother of a friend to actually spray it in a garage. I was as always short on cash so I should have bought a gallon of paint but only got three quarts due to a cash shortage...so three quarts of Lime green poly in the most inexpensive paint NAPA had, Martin Senor "Synthol" enamel (basically what I call cheap tractor paint these days) for $40 plus tax. Car looked like it had stripes, to accompany all the waves from being sanded with a Black and Decker 4" palm sander. :) This was circa 1983.
Good on ya uncle Tony
if in doubt painted white
white is always a very forgiving colour on body work......
Tony is 100% keeping it real...Bodywork is weakness and so is wiring....
HARD WORK,GREAT VIDEO ....EVERY NEW PAINTER NEED TO SEE THIS VIDEO
Keep on rollin Uncle Tony you got you got you got your mind you got your mind right
Just finished up a mirror finish paint job on a 68 Camaro after i did a quarter panel sectioning, and tubbed it out. Body work and paint over mechanical anyday but im still a combo guy at 22 years old!
I paint everyday and I think this is a Great video as far as expectations are concerned....I suggest sticking with single stage paint like Uncle Tony has done....YEAH THOSE METALLIC/PEARL/MICA base coat colors pop but very few guys or gals will get it right....Ive seen a lot of show cars with expensive metallic paint jobs done by pros that are zebra striped or worse...dont think you can get a metallic base coat right doing it only once in a blue moon..what is gonna be your biggest gremlin is gonna be dirt...hose down the floor with water if you paint in a garage...make sure to have a moisture filter on your compressor and on your air line...
I feel your pain.. check out the 69 340 4spd swinger I did for my brother on my channel. Of all colors, Black. And yes all work done in my brothers garage. I made the dash pad, although there’s no pad, only for the gauges. Your videos have been a great help in tuning this car! Thx UT!!
Great video Tony....just another thing not to do unless absolutely necessary....like masonry or septic tank cleaning :)
I restored a 1968 442 W30 about 25 years ago. Body and paint took about 2 months, 4 hours a day 6 days a week. I'm an amateur and after stripping the paint, the body was near perfect condition, no rust, and no dents. I had an air board, DA, and was still so tired of sanding I swore I'd never do it again.
Uncle Tony's Garage , perfect timing just bought some duplicolor paint shop jet black base , primer, clear coat.. been working on a sn95 248a code mustang (factory lightweight) for 2 years getting it back to a fun street beater along with a forever of sanding an threatening mustang with a 3lb hammer to act right when no ones around it looks ehh at best haha
as always very informative uncle Tony. thank you for your time amd for sharing your vast knowledge, expertise and experience. you are the average man's car guru.
I did a few of my own, honestly the most work I have EVER put into a car
Informative video as usual, thanks. Question...how do you keep from blowing yourself up when painting while smoking a cigarette?
It should be called a sand job not a paint job . I have spent the last 6 months on and off sanding my Chevy truck and finally got the cab fenders and doors sprayed at least they turned out looking like glass ,now I got to do the bed your right Tony if you think it will take a week plan for a month.
Easy way to decide if you really want to do this kind of work is to visit your local junk yard, find a hood damaged on only one side and work on it till both sides match. It's good practice if you need it. I'd recommend something small like a mini cooper to start with!
I do custom paint and body for a living, it’s hard to explain to people what seems really simple to me is very difficult for others it came natural to me but kinda relate it to trying to explain your knowledge of nitro and airflow carbeuration etc it’s all relative, you need patience to do high end paint and the steps seem assenine but it’s worth it in the end if you think it’s good enough keep going lol I really appreciate your time
Painting is easy as long as you have the proper equipment. Its the prep work and sanding and then the wetsanding and polishing after paint that takes time. I frame off restored a 58 chevy in about a year in my garage one piece at a time. Its the 2nd car i ever painted and it turned out beautiful thanks to wetsanding afterward. The problem with garage paint jobs is you can never get the environment clean enough to prevent dust and trash in your paint. Its always got to be sanded out after the fact. Having the passion for finishing a project is the most important thing. If you arent into it it will never get done. RUclips is the best resource for learning some good tricks and methods so as not to waste time doing things more than once. After i finished painting it then i had to fix and polish all the stainless trim. Imagine about 40 pieces of stainless each taking 3 or 4 hours to fix and finish. Yea you gotta want it real bad to keep at it. Getting burned out is all to easy if youre not careful. Breaking it up into pieces in the best way to avoid that. Making your own door panels is another challenge that involves another skill set.
Well done Tony you do great work and take great pride in your work
I call my 73 Mustang an engine stand. It's gonna get some basic bondo/fiberglass and tractor enamel. Later when I get a vacuum pump and some time I want to make some molds for carbon fiber. I figure I'll start with the fenders, then hood and trunk lid, then doors, and finally I'll try to tackle the unibody. I'll get back to you in ten years.
I grew up helping my grandfather and dad fix up and sell man clear title salvage cars back in the 60's and 70's. When other kids were playing Little League I was sanding! Fortunate to have learned how to use real lead with Maple paddles vs Bondo.
I myself still prefer using the good old reliable Devilbiss suction cup style gun to the HVLP cup on the top guns!
hope you keep the black on the hood scoops....they looked kool
I painted my 79 power wagon with Massey Ferguson red. Mixed and sprayed it myself and it doesn’t look bad for the first time
I dont think i could prep and paint an entire car by myself like this,respect
I like your philosophy Tony it's the same thing for anything you're going to paint if you're going to paint a kitchen wall if you're going to paint the outside of your house it's all about prepping and when you get into taking care of the wall in your kitchen that's when you start noticing you got to wave you all you want to smooth it you see another wall same old thing the principles of a good job are the same no matter what project you're trying to tackle
I would love for you to go in depth on body work, show us a fender that needs body work, bondo prep etc the whole nine yards. Would love to learn that from you Tony
Yep agreed it is hard, and I am coming across problems with both primer and paint, but its a learning process. . . Not to mention the Bondo work I am doing to one small area, fun, fun, fun. Which reminds me I need to buy more 320, 600, and 1000 grit sand paper.
I'm in the middle of doing the body on my pickup now. Living in the Northeast, salt has taken its toll. I'm replacing cab corners, rocker panels, door bottoms and front fenders. I'm about halfway through the bodywork now. Thankfully, I don't have to be a perfectionist because I'm using a product called Monstaliner on it. But I've been driving it since I bought it new in 1994 and it has 260k on it, so I don't mind putting the work into it.
It's been my daily driver for 26 years, still on the original ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, CV joints, alternator, power steering pump, master cylinder, etc. Doesn't even burn a drop of oil. It's worth doing the body!
Member of the family! Make it look right
What kind of truck is it? Just curious. I bought a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 brand new 20 yrs ago, with the 2.7 liter 3RZ motor & automatic.......but I've got 352k miles on it. Runs & drives great. All original CV joints, front end components, wheel bearings, shocks, starter & alternator ( both are Denso ), etc. The only things I've replaced once so far, is the U-joints ( just recently )...... 1 radiator, and 1 valve cover gasket. It could use as new set of shocks though.....and a paint job. Mine doesn't burn a drop of oil either. It's been my only driver since I got it & I wouldn't get rid of it for anything. I don't have to worry about salted roads here in Florida, and I don't live near the beach. No major rust. Cheers.
I just painted my Land Cruiser with Monstaliner. Your bodywork still needs to be 90% good. There's a few spots on mine you can see where I should have spent more time, but you can only see it under side lighting
Howabouthetruth it's a 1994 Chevy K1500 extended cab, 350ci, 4L60E tranny, F44 build package so it came with the tranny cooler and 14-bolt rear end instead of the wimpy car 10-bolt that usually comes in half ton Chevy trucks.
@@9mmARman Nice. Hope your body restoration turns out well. Take care......
Nice bodywork, BTW. The skirtline is beautiful. Before/after is amazing. It’s gonna look great!
Uncle Tony, New subscriber here from Canada. I've been binge watching your channel to get caught up. Just fantastic!!! I've learned a ton of cool stuff. You teach like a friend. I was able to put some theory to work on a...a...Phord. I'm a Mopar man myself.
I'm a child of the 70's/80's so turbo stuff is my poison mostly due to availability when the car bug bit me. I'm one of those sickos that does body and mechanical because I'm not so smart and enjoy punishment at every point.
Thanks for being a pure car guy. I'm in. Gotta go beat the shit outta my jacks to pull an axle and do a back rotor on an F-350 now. I don't like Phords so much...and alot of my friends own one. I need better friends!
Btw. I wasted half a beer through my nose with the 'I could drink a pint of paint and piss the color on it' line........You sir, are the Champion. Well done.
I painted my '51 Dodge flat grey in 1961 with the spray attachment on my Grandmother's Electrolux blow end. It could have only turned out better if I'd used orange paint. I told my friends that people work hard to achieve that texture, but they keep ending up with smooth. But hey, I painted it, eh?
I think it's called "velvet"?
Problem was the Electrolux.... If it had been a Kirby...😂
Tony I applaud your patience, its so much work and you're doing a great job. Years ago I started to paint my car, I put months into it and just as it was getting close my neighbor called the cops on me and said I was running a body shop. I had to keep it from rusting so I grabbed a gallon of Rustoleum, and a gallon of mineral spirits and sprayed the car black. It was passible I just wish i got to follow through like you are. Good luck!
Neighbors suck.
I’ve got a buddy that owns a body shop. I just wouldn’t have the patience for it.
I have lived through two home paint jobs. The fist time, you just don't know what you don't know; you just have to live through it. One word of advice that you don't touch on, buy the sanding blocks. They come in kits of various sizes and shapes and are worth every penny.