Tony, love the channel, even though I'm not really a mopar guy, I've learned a lot about them because of you. Here is a tip I learned many years ago from a very experienced car painter. I too have painted many cars over the years, albeit poorly in the bringing, until I learned these very simple tips. Always paint the hard areas first, not last. That way you won't forget them. The first coat should always be a light coat, ie it should look like shit, because you didn't lay much paint down. Do the whole car like this & start on the roof & work your way down. That way, all of the overspray of the area your painting will land on an area you haven't painted yet. Let the first coat dry for about 20 minutes or so, then do the second coat. The second coat will "hang" on the first coat which if you're watching how the paint is laying out or flowing, will not lead to drips. The car should look like its finished at this point, ie nice & shiny & appears to be well covered. wait another 20 minutes or more then apply the third coat the same way as the second coat. The third coat may appear not to be needed, but its really there to build up the paint thickness & cover areas that you may have missed in the first two coats. If you end up with drips, let the paint cure completely, then grab a razor blade & wrap the blade on each end with several wraps of masking tape, making sure each end has the same number of wraps. Gently scrape the top of the drip until the masking tape hits the surrounding paint surface, then remove a wrap of tape on each end, then repeat the process. Do this until you remove the bulk of the drip. This process helps you avoid removing paint from the surrounding areas. Once you get the "drip" area down pretty close to the surrounding area, you can then start with the wet sanding process & compounding. Believe it or not, you can remove drips & make them completely disappear. Good luck with this paint job. I look forward to watching : ) .............& PS please wear a mask.
Tony gets a lot of grief for his work and hundreds of projects but he is doing what he wants and that is what most all of us aspire to get to do in life. UT living the dream! :-)
Here's a trick to help with spraying that metallic green, Uncle Tony: Depending on how much exercise you want while painting, to make an nice even spray along the sides without getting uneven metallic coverage you could try "walking" the sides rather than spraying each panel. After shooting the top, hood and trunk, go to one side and "walk" the gun the entire length of the car, front to back, back to front, starting high and ending low. Just make sure your floor is clear and lighting even. When shooting, you develop a tunnel vision of the surface to your gun tip as well as an even speed. Your turn arounds will be off the front and rear panels only. Makes for a consistent spray for the entire side with no pattern breaks at panel seams.
Good advice. It pays to walk back and forth a few times with gun in hand but not spraying to see how your air hose is going to react. It might need some adjustment in how it is laying. You don't want to be stepping on it and stop your gun stroke or having it flopping up against the fresh paint. Been there done that.
Uncle Tony..we are with you brother. We just picked up a nice 1976 Duster ( driver ) that was about 40% primer. We did the paint job ourselves on the cheap and it looks fine!
I was about to comment on the same thing until I seen yours. You are 100% correct, its nothing but trouble. It's old school lacquer that is not compatible with todays products. If your top coat has hardener in it then everything under it should also. The replacement is referred to as icing. It has hardener but still sands easy like red spot putty and does not shrink. One that I use is polyester finishing putty by USC part # 26006. Around $26.00-30.00 for a 30 oz tube. It's somewhat self leveling. This comment is not meant to criticize your work just your choice of materials.
I remember when nobody wanted this cars they were great looking cars and a great platform to build how you wanted it put a dual snorkel mopar scoop and give it a little rake in back with wide tires and these cars look bad ass!!!!
Really wish I lived closer, would be Stoked to Help out, as an Ironworker I've been yelled at by the Best.. so I have no Fear at all.. Keep at it Boss and Boss lady.. Oi oi oi
I Just painted my 93 cougar (twice so I could fix my terrible job the first time) and it has some striping still....Painting pearl or metallic is a challenge for sure. Mabye next year I will redo it again.
I just want to see more bottle rocket because that was the first project that was started and I and many others really want to see it go and do something before we all grow old and grey lol!
How do you it l was tired just listening to what you have on but lovin the great projects you have on the go the green for the duster will pop ps uncle Kathy hope that you are paid hazard pay for dogging buckets and gas touches regards Anthony from down under
I have done rattle can paint jobs that turned out great, no paint booth just waited for nice days and took my time and did small sections at a time. The key was getting the bodywork perfect which mostly just took time and lots of buffing between coats and wet sanding. I chose black once and will never do that again, it showed every imperfection and scratch and took twice as long to get it right. The biggest tip I can give is not to rush it.
Im going through the same pain on my sons 67 VC Valiant, and a trick a panel beater taught me was when you think your panel is sanded and all straight , using a spray bottle with wax and grease remover, spray the panel all over and while its wet and glossy look along panel and any imperfection shows up easily. You can mark that spot and sort it out.
Just painted my 78 Z28 back yellow with restoration shop sunshine yellow. It's a good product on a budget I was very impressed with the result. Now were crusin it down here about an hour south of ya in Manchester Tn. Maybe will see ya at buffalo valley sometime Uncle T.
Hey uncle Tony and uncle Kathy! Looking forward to the Duster final product. Sherwood Green metallic is a really beautiful color! My brother has a 1971 Plymouth Brougham with that color.
I would love to hang out with UT. Not only is he my favorite RUclipsr but I could learn so much from him. Can't wait to see how the paint turns out on this one. good luck!
keep in mind you are developing a parasocial relationship and he would be completely different when you randomly meet him vs when he's shooting a vid for 150k ppl
Can't wait to see this when it's done..Yes, I do bodywork and the Dart was painted better than some so-called painters at some body shops I worked at in the past lol...
It only needs a small amount of body work...until you start doing the body work ! Sorry to be a pita, but...Remember UT- be in love with the process, not the finished results. Don't put a deadline on it and keep at it until you can't do any more. Your the best UT!
Metallic... use a siphon feed gun.. two or three toy marbles or similar size ball bearings in the cup. Swirl the gun like your holding a stir stick after every pass. this will keep the metallic suspended and lessen the clouding .. makes for more uniform spread of metallic flakes. my two cents. Thanks for sharing.. best to you and yours UT.
Metallic! Oh so un forgiving of gun pattern and technique. First time I sprayed metallic, after spraying a lot of solid colors, it came out looking like a bowling ball swirl. :)
I know someone who randomly picked from the list of pearl coats at the parts store. Didn't keep track of which ones. I counted 7 different colors on his Camaro sitting in his garage one night. Next week the panels would be different colors under the same lights.
Nice projects! Nice paint choice for the Duster! I always liked that deep metallic green from that era. My great grandmother’s ‘72 was a root beer brown metallic color is the best way I can describe it. Beautiful in it’s own way.
If u don’t already know about it you can spay the hole car or at lest the spots that your doing body work with shopline or ever coat high build then u wet sand it with 600/800 the ever coat is sweet it sprays on gray and when u sand pink comes out it’s got a build in guid coat now the shop line is cheaper but u need to spay guid coat on to see high and low spots but when your dimes it’s straights it’s a good way to save time and work on your body working time
Been doing body work on my 68 Dart.More or less just a little practice since I haven't put in wheel tubs yet,combined with the fact I warped both quarters when I put new ones on.
Uncle Tony, I'm enjoying all the great info, since I have mopar blood running threw my veins and still own my first mopar that I bought 39 years ago, a 73 roadrunner, 340.Love the updates, but next time you paint, it's okay to wear a respirator and protect your lungs, since we want many more shows out of you! Keep up the great job.
I'm guessing that the weather was hotter and more humid when you painted the Dart. It's amazing how more comfortable weather improves our outlook on just about anything. I've had a fix/flip Ford Explorer at my place for several months. It just needs a fuel pump but I haven't felt like laying under it when it's 90+ degrees with sweat running in my eyes. This weekends forecast is low 70s and low humidity!
Tony, I've been doing custom paint and body for almost 40 years. Do yourself a favor, after doing the body work, put several heavy coats of a product called featherfill on the whole car and block it out. It will help you get it nice and straight. And I would go with a non metallic color unless you're going with a base/clear. Single stage metallics do no lend themselves to be wet sanded.
Although Featherfill is not my first choice the advice you give is solid. Gotta use a longboard and manually block this car out if you want it too look good. That electric sander is just going to make a mess of it. Agree on the BC/CC for metallics. A novice painter is going to struggle to make single stage metallics look even and wet sanding to correct mistakes isn't going to go well with SS.
My dodge charger 1974 had originally the same color yours, man!! I couldn't find it here in Brazil.Than I used chrysler jeep - dark forest green metallic. Looks black in the shadows and metallic green in the sun.
You could have pulled on the bolts you welded on and at the same time used a long spoon panel beating tool (or similar like a broken leaf spring) to fairly firmly hit the outside of the dent. That would have prevented the middle of the roof warping. Like everything else, practice and experience.
Great video UTG! Nice to see ya doing the body & paint on the Duster. I like how you have the little dents & imperfections circled before you started doing any work. It's real easy to see these areas when the car is wet like in video where you were cleaning the car. I think you got overwhelmed on the Dart trying to get the door & fender just right that you over looked the other small stuff, also making RUclips content. I think this one will look 10 times better, not to say you didn't do a good job on the Dart. I feel for ya, there's never enough time!! Tip on mixing the paint you only need to strain it as you fill the hopper on the gun, at least this is how I was taught & I see others doing it this way also.
I dunno man 66 or 69 charger, any superbee, anything that is plum crazy with a 340 6 pack. Have you seen an aar Cuda? I'm a Chevy guy. But I mean darn those are sharp.
@@aaronanderson7619 all those cars are badass, we had a Charger when I was a kid, and it was balls out fast, but there's just something about the Duster that does it for me.
Chrysler did the Duster with a low budget. I like Dusters - I have a '72, but I never understood why the '67 to '68 Barracuda didn't sell as well as Duster as I think the fish car is better looking. I would have liked to see Plymouth do a shortened A-body, have spent a few more weeks in the styling studio - less rear overhang. The Duster sold amazingly well, but most were slant six equipped, I think Chrysler should have updated the A-body instead of the F-body, as an alternative to the Fox body Mustang.
I’d mix the paint as you need it not all at once and I’d move around the car faster and I’d do the inside and underside areas first and with the outside of the car Youll probably want to start from the roof and work it down to the ground
You should really consider base / clear for a metallic color. Any runs or sags will be almost impossible to get out because the metallic will still look like a run even if its sanded flat.
Scott from cold war motors is a damn master at getting dents out and body guy he's restoring a 1960 Plymouth Fury and it was all rooted underneath so he spliced a 4 door dart's bottom to the 2 door fury and took all the dents out the trim and that it's just5 amazing the things that guy can do. You should check it out sometime his channel is Cold War Motors it's awesome show I like it anyway.
Good to hear you're getting into the body work. Please wear a respirator rated for ISO this time and not a cigarette. Ciggies come after the paint jobs finished lol.
For those hard to reach dents you could use a stud welder and slide hammer combo I've learned a lot of good body work and painting tips from pharraway definitely a channel that worth checking out
Guide coat your primer ..so you know if your bodywork is good.......guide coat is use on /over your body work .....3coats of primer /sanding type say color grey......then one lite coat of either black or red.....when you block it out you will see your highs and lows......use polyester putty only use the red putty on final prep work it doesn't work well on bare metal and it shrinks where as the polyester doesn't shrink and works on bare metal .....heres how I see it done body work to 80 grit or 120..then feather painted areas around it ....3 coats of grey primer surfacer or high build primer .....lite guide coat of say black or red .....block out check for highs or lows ...fix if you noticed by feel/hand ....if pretty good ...3 more coats of primer and one guide coat ..now use your red putty if needed .....primer once more block should be good to go . Using a high build prime epoxy base will most likely skip one step as per a lacquer base primer.........use fast dry thinner if you are using a lacquer base .....this is old school and it has worked for years even George Baris customs used lacquer based primers ..biggest problem is drying time and need to build up......Epoxy High build primers fast track all of it but BUT some older paints like Acrylic enamels don't work well .stick well to it so make note of this....there are ways to fudge it ....but ........good guy to watch is My Friend Pete at DIY Auto school.....I've been a body trades person for now 35yrs ...no ...37 yrs Lols ....... hope this helps you body work 40 to 36 grit ...finished in 80 or 100 grit or better ......1st primer 3x 180 grit ..to 240 2nd 3x primer- 240. to 280 or 320 ......3rd 2to 3xs -primer- 320 to paint...just thought of something..if you are painting your car in hot weather ...use a slow reducer........if you are doing it in cooler weather use a medium reducer ........spray at around 60-5 and depends of temp. and paint flow......you can reduce your final coat out thinner to do a mist coat. this brings out metallics and flows out the paint BUT USE ONLY AFTER THE LAST COAT....think your car gets 3 coats so 3x around your car you start at the front hood to fender to roof to door to quarter to trunk to back panel to trunk to quarter to roof to door to hood to fender let it tack up for 10-15 mins .....then repeat but keep going around the car ...no tack up only 1st time ...it holds the paint from runs sags ........if after the last 3rd go around ...you want to do mist coat thin down your paint by 10% and go around again ..........never try to paint a panel completer ....do it in sections and by panel to panel 1st coat ...go round car second coat go around car 3 coat go around car ......make sure your car surface is clean before any paint or primer goes on the car............My friend Pete @DIY AUTO SCHOOL has many good videos ...with good info but remember he is using todays paint products 70s and 80s don't work with todays paints ..it can but ...to much info. here..I'll just say sealers needed to be used....one last thing if you are spraying metallic and you see Zebra striping ....cross coat ...and then up and down so like a + and try upping the air pressure .......so one coat > and another up and down You'll get it ...........wish I could show you .....all it takes is practice ...remember ..gun trigger action ...you should always hear air ......practice before doing your next paint job...notice the trigger has 2 steps pull to the 1st ....just air comes out ..this will be where your trigger should be when leaving the panel never release until no air comes from the gun .......2nd trigger pull this is when you are painting as you paint you start to leave the panel you release to the first trigger step no further ..practice this as it is important ..you only release the trigger when you are finished and off the car not while in painting mode....practice your trigger action..very important ....... become like you are one with the gun ....lols
Replacing a tricky dented area can be good. Have done it myself. But...you might not want to patch over the entire dent in the future. Two layers tight together often rust...like pinch welds. You'll probably be ok since it's up high and your climate ain't bad. A better way is to cut out the dent and make your patch with a qtr. inch overlap. I always drench the headliner w/water for peace of mind. ALSO: *If there are no high spots -* just use filler. Doesn't matter how thick no matter what anyone says. BUT the majority of the filler should be kitty hair. Short-strand fiber reinforced. It's water proof and bullet proof, though you can't finish-sand it. Make sure it's low enough for a layer of regular filler. This will save a lotta fucken around! Lookin' good!
That BRG paint you're getting, is that the Mazda BRG from the mx-5? If so, it's a really pretty color and not far off from the original. I've had in the past both the mopar sherwood and the miata BRG as factory paint and if I remember correctly, the sherwood was a bit darker while the BRG shows off the metallic a bit better in my opinion. Good luck on the Duster, one day I'll score another old A-body to play with.
@@replica4132 That is an unusual way to describe a situation. Maybe they had warrants, owed child support or were in Witness Protection and HAD to disappear ??
🌪...nice 1974 (?) plymouth duster project...🌪 i missed the 1st part of this Duster project...does it have a 318 or 360 KA or Magnum engine for "motorvation"??
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Tony, love the channel, even though I'm not really a mopar guy, I've learned a lot about them because of you. Here is a tip I learned many years ago from a very experienced car painter. I too have painted many cars over the years, albeit poorly in the bringing, until I learned these very simple tips. Always paint the hard areas first, not last. That way you won't forget them. The first coat should always be a light coat, ie it should look like shit, because you didn't lay much paint down. Do the whole car like this & start on the roof & work your way down. That way, all of the overspray of the area your painting will land on an area you haven't painted yet. Let the first coat dry for about 20 minutes or so, then do the second coat. The second coat will "hang" on the first coat which if you're watching how the paint is laying out or flowing, will not lead to drips. The car should look like its finished at this point, ie nice & shiny & appears to be well covered. wait another 20 minutes or more then apply the third coat the same way as the second coat. The third coat may appear not to be needed, but its really there to build up the paint thickness & cover areas that you may have missed in the first two coats. If you end up with drips, let the paint cure completely, then grab a razor blade & wrap the blade on each end with several wraps of masking tape, making sure each end has the same number of wraps. Gently scrape the top of the drip until the masking tape hits the surrounding paint surface, then remove a wrap of tape on each end, then repeat the process. Do this until you remove the bulk of the drip. This process helps you avoid removing paint from the surrounding areas. Once you get the "drip" area down pretty close to the surrounding area, you can then start with the wet sanding process & compounding. Believe it or not, you can remove drips & make them completely disappear. Good luck with this paint job. I look forward to watching : ) .............& PS please wear a mask.
Tony gets a lot of grief for his work and hundreds of projects but he is doing what he wants and that is what most all of us aspire to get to do in life. UT living the dream! :-)
Exactly. I don’t get why so many people miss that.
And this is how Uncle Tony's Garage became Uncle Tony's Body Shop
What i love about this channel is it itches my adhd by never staying on one project
Here's a trick to help with spraying that metallic green, Uncle Tony: Depending on how much exercise you want while painting, to make an nice even spray along the sides without getting uneven metallic coverage you could try "walking" the sides rather than spraying each panel. After shooting the top, hood and trunk, go to one side and "walk" the gun the entire length of the car, front to back, back to front, starting high and ending low. Just make sure your floor is clear and lighting even. When shooting, you develop a tunnel vision of the surface to your gun tip as well as an even speed. Your turn arounds will be off the front and rear panels only. Makes for a consistent spray for the entire side with no pattern breaks at panel seams.
Good advice. It pays to walk back and forth a few times with gun in hand but not spraying to see how your air hose is going to react. It might need some adjustment in how it is laying. You don't want to be stepping on it and stop your gun stroke or having it flopping up against the fresh paint. Been there done that.
Uncle Tony..we are with you brother. We just picked up a nice 1976 Duster ( driver ) that was about 40% primer. We did the paint job ourselves on the cheap and it looks fine!
I'm really looking forward to seeing how the Duster turns out...it's like the perfect daily driver
That red spot putty you're using is a big no no.It never stops shrinking Tony.
It deffinetly cracks when it dries :/
I was about to comment on the same thing until I seen yours. You are 100% correct, its nothing but trouble. It's old school lacquer that is not compatible with todays products. If your top coat has hardener in it then everything under it should also. The replacement is referred to as icing. It has hardener but still sands easy like red spot putty and does not shrink. One that I use is polyester finishing putty by USC part # 26006. Around $26.00-30.00 for a 30 oz tube. It's somewhat self leveling. This comment is not meant to criticize your work just your choice of materials.
Agreed. That red glaze is trouble. Learned the hard way years ago it doesn't matter how nice it looks,in 3 months it'll have shrunk way down.
I'm glad to hear you're considering to do something for the magnum engines. Thank you.
Hope Kiwi has a nice recovery after his surgery! I also hope you have a nice recovery after so much bodywork, best of luck to you!
ruclips.net/video/t8h_kN5GpKM/видео.html
I remember when nobody wanted this cars they were great looking cars and a great platform to build how you wanted it put a dual snorkel mopar scoop and give it a little rake in back with wide tires and these cars look bad ass!!!!
The Duster/Demon was always my favorite Mopar. I guess cuz I always thought they kinda looked like Novas. 😜
Al Bundy's fashion
Really wish I lived closer, would be Stoked to Help out, as an Ironworker I've been yelled at by the Best.. so I have no Fear at all.. Keep at it Boss and Boss lady.. Oi oi oi
Remember, don’t get into your “zone” where you hurry up and screw it up. You were pissed about that on the dart.
Every duster video puts me in such a good mood for whatever reason! Looking good so far UTG
Magnum headed 273 4 speed! You have my attention sir
Definitely sounds like an interesting combo!
Yay nail that's the joint ya
I like how confident you are with your parts handling Tony.
You mean because he treats them like they are made of metal...?
You keep inspiring me to keep going with bodywork on my car with these videos, thanks Tony!
UT my two bit tip is loop the air line around your neck it keeps it away from the body while your spraying your a natural at painting Im impressed 😁👍
Yay, green! One of my favorites. :)
I could grate cheese on the last car you painted hopefully this one gets at least a paint type finish
The metallic is going to be a challenge. Don't beat your self up if it comes out with tiger strips.
I Just painted my 93 cougar (twice so I could fix my terrible job the first time) and it has some striping still....Painting pearl or metallic is a challenge for sure. Mabye next year I will redo it again.
You're gonna be a professional body man when its all said and done,keep it up Uncle T
I just want to see more bottle rocket because that was the first project that was started and I and many others really want to see it go and do something before we all grow old and grey lol!
How do you it l was tired just listening to what you have on but lovin the great projects you have on the go the green for the duster will pop ps uncle Kathy hope that you are paid hazard pay for dogging buckets and gas touches regards Anthony from down under
I have done rattle can paint jobs that turned out great, no paint booth just waited for nice days and took my time and did small sections at a time. The key was getting the bodywork perfect which mostly just took time and lots of buffing between coats and wet sanding. I chose black once and will never do that again, it showed every imperfection and scratch and took twice as long to get it right. The biggest tip I can give is not to rush it.
Im going through the same pain on my sons 67 VC Valiant, and a trick a panel beater taught me was when you think your panel is sanded and all straight , using a spray bottle with wax and grease remover, spray the panel all over and while its wet and glossy look along panel and any imperfection shows up easily. You can mark that spot and sort it out.
You are sooo right about getting into a rythm with doing different stuff... I would love to see the color on that car. Thanks for Sharing
Glad you picked green for the color. 👌
Thanks for the update. Good to see you holding a gatorade. Need to stay hydrated in this summer weather.
Sorry Tony, but that Honda is a CL360, not a CB360. I have one. The CB has the low pipes and front disc brake.
Just painted my 78 Z28 back yellow with restoration shop sunshine yellow. It's a good product on a budget I was very impressed with the result. Now were crusin it down here about an hour south of ya in Manchester Tn.
Maybe will see ya at buffalo valley sometime Uncle T.
Hey uncle Tony and uncle Kathy! Looking forward to the Duster final product. Sherwood Green metallic is a really beautiful color! My brother has a 1971 Plymouth Brougham with that color.
I'm super glad to see you picked dark green. I think that will look classic on that car.. very cool UT
Good on ya for having another go.
I would love to hang out with UT. Not only is he my favorite RUclipsr but I could learn so much from him. Can't wait to see how the paint turns out on this one. good luck!
keep in mind you are developing a parasocial relationship and he would be completely different when you randomly meet him vs when he's shooting a vid for 150k ppl
@@two_number_nines Thanks Debbie downer. Just seems like a cool guy unlike yourself.
@@louiecevasco7948 never meet your heroes
Yay green!
Can't wait to see this when it's done..Yes, I do bodywork and the Dart was painted better than some so-called painters at some body shops I worked at in the past lol...
It only needs a small amount of body work...until you start doing the body work !
Sorry to be a pita, but...Remember UT- be in love with the process, not the finished results. Don't put a deadline on it and keep at it until you can't do any more. Your the best UT!
Looking forward to seeing this car in color! I saw a gorgeous 440 duster today and it had me drooling..
Metallic... use a siphon feed gun.. two or three toy marbles or similar size ball bearings in the cup. Swirl the gun like your holding a stir stick after every pass. this will keep the metallic suspended and lessen the clouding .. makes for more uniform spread of metallic flakes. my two cents. Thanks for sharing.. best to you and yours UT.
I can't wait to see that Honda cb360 scrambler come back together!!! Thanks Uncle Tony!
This one you'll be able to park closer to kiwis.
Hahaha...
@Baron Boghosian hey man
@Baron Boghosian why didn't it come up on your channel?
Metallic! Oh so un forgiving of gun pattern and technique. First time I sprayed metallic, after spraying a lot of solid colors, it came out looking like a bowling ball swirl. :)
lol
ruclips.net/video/t8h_kN5GpKM/видео.html
Tony pay attention, read this comment. Metallic is no joke. Do yourself a big favor - go straight BRG and forget the metallic.
Just use base/clear urethane and get a really good spray gun. Work on your technique on test panels. Stay away from silver colors and you will be ok.
I know someone who randomly picked from the list of pearl coats at the parts store. Didn't keep track of which ones.
I counted 7 different colors on his Camaro sitting in his garage one night.
Next week the panels would be different colors under the same lights.
Nice projects! Nice paint choice for the Duster! I always liked that deep metallic green from that era. My great grandmother’s ‘72 was a root beer brown metallic color is the best way I can describe it. Beautiful in it’s own way.
There's one in that very (brown) color about 2 blocks away from me.Problem is,he seldom takes it out of the garage.
I will be at that moparty event on Saturday
If you have a mig welder, you'd love fitzee's fabrications channel. Perfect body work with basic tool. You'll throw that putty at someone.
If u don’t already know about it you can spay the hole car or at lest the spots that your doing body work with shopline or ever coat high build then u wet sand it with 600/800 the ever coat is sweet it sprays on gray and when u sand pink comes out it’s got a build in guid coat now the shop line is cheaper but u need to spay guid coat on to see high and low spots but when your dimes it’s straights it’s a good way to save time and work on your body working time
I really like British Racing Green. I think it'll look great on the Duster!
It’s true, after a paint/body project, you want to do it again-better. Good luck:)
Glad my xbody was so straight when i got it i did a rusto paint job came out alright just need to fix my breaklights and its on the road again
Been doing body work on my 68 Dart.More or less just a little practice since I haven't put in wheel tubs yet,combined with the fact I warped both quarters when I put new ones on.
Uncle Tony, I'm enjoying all the great info, since I have mopar blood running threw my veins and still own my first mopar that I bought 39 years ago, a 73 roadrunner, 340.Love the updates, but next time you paint, it's okay to wear a respirator and protect your lungs, since we want many more shows out of you! Keep up the great job.
This channel is getting awesome! A 273 with magnum heads AND a Honda CL!
Glad you're going with the original colour (more or less). I was hoping that when you power washed it and I saw the colour under the bonnet/hood
You can always count on Tony to stay on schedule!!!!!
The Honda is a CL360. It has the high exhaust pipes. The CB360 had low pipes.
I’d love to see you go through that Honda! Sweet
I'm guessing that the weather was hotter and more humid when you painted the Dart. It's amazing how more comfortable weather improves our outlook on just about anything. I've had a fix/flip Ford Explorer at my place for several months. It just needs a fuel pump but I haven't felt like laying under it when it's 90+ degrees with sweat running in my eyes. This weekends forecast is low 70s and low humidity!
Tony, I've been doing custom paint and body for almost 40 years. Do yourself a favor, after doing the body work, put several heavy coats of a product called featherfill on the whole car and block it out. It will help you get it nice and straight. And I would go with a non metallic color unless you're going with a base/clear. Single stage metallics do no lend themselves to be wet sanded.
Although Featherfill is not my first choice the advice you give is solid. Gotta use a longboard and manually block this car out if you want it too look good. That electric sander is just going to make a mess of it. Agree on the BC/CC for metallics. A novice painter is going to struggle to make single stage metallics look even and wet sanding to correct mistakes isn't going to go well with SS.
My dodge charger 1974 had originally the same color yours, man!! I couldn't find it here in Brazil.Than I used chrysler jeep - dark forest green metallic. Looks black in the shadows and metallic green in the sun.
You got this uncle tony!!!
YEAGHS!!! UR keeping the Green! I believe that's the original F8 British racing Green Metallic my friend just did his 69 Charger RT/SE
Take a break, I suggest going and renting a V6 Dodge Challenger, strapping in a big NO2 bottle and see how close you can get to matching a hellcat.
Watching this as I paint my car with a paint roller.
Phuqin savage.
Everybody get your roll on. What
I'm currently rolling the Eastwood Optiflo primer on my '65 Studebaker.
If BMW & Merc can go flat satin, you can proudly go orange peel. 👍🏻
Makes me nostalgic for my rust-belt roller-painted reliable old '78 Corolla.
I did the $50 paint job a couple times it actually looked good. There was alot of wet sanding though
That's the power of the home depo more doing more saving ?
Would love to see that car B3 blue. Would look beautiful.
Right on
British Racing Green,, Yea Baby!!!
You could have pulled on the bolts you welded on and at the same time used a long spoon panel beating tool (or similar like a broken leaf spring) to fairly firmly hit the outside of the dent. That would have prevented the middle of the roof warping. Like everything else, practice and experience.
Really like the dart Tony..the red one...saw the truck vidio ..on Swiss knife.
My family had 2 cars like that red dodge dart sport, other green dodge demon with 6s, but both had slush pumps for transmission.
Great video UTG! Nice to see ya doing the body & paint on the Duster. I like how you have the little dents & imperfections circled before you started doing any work. It's real easy to see these areas when the car is wet like in video where you were cleaning the car. I think you got overwhelmed on the Dart trying to get the door & fender just right that you over looked the other small stuff, also making RUclips content. I think this one will look 10 times better, not to say you didn't do a good job on the Dart. I feel for ya, there's never enough time!!
Tip on mixing the paint you only need to strain it as you fill the hopper on the gun, at least this is how I was taught & I see others doing it this way also.
I think the 70 Duster is my favorite Mopar.
I dunno man 66 or 69 charger, any superbee, anything that is plum crazy with a 340 6 pack.
Have you seen an aar Cuda? I'm a Chevy guy. But I mean darn those are sharp.
@@aaronanderson7619 all those cars are badass, we had a Charger when I was a kid, and it was balls out fast, but there's just something about the Duster that does it for me.
I like 1970 , 1971 , and 1972. I had a 1971 , and a 1972.
Chrysler did the Duster with a low budget. I like Dusters - I have a '72, but I never understood why the '67 to '68 Barracuda didn't sell as well as Duster as I think the fish car is better looking. I would have liked to see Plymouth do a shortened A-body, have spent a few more weeks in the styling studio - less rear overhang. The Duster sold amazingly well, but most were slant six equipped, I think Chrysler should have updated the A-body instead of the F-body, as an alternative to the Fox body Mustang.
@@aaronanderson7619 70 Superbee hands down.
Good stuff Unk.
Happy Motoring.
this cars gunna look great nice to see fresh paint on an ole mopar
I almost painted my Sherwood Duster British racing green.. ended up going with a high impact green!
Yes sir. Redemption time!
The Dart, looks pretty good, Uncle Tony!
ruclips.net/video/t8h_kN5GpKM/видео.html
Duster is my favorite mopar body style
I’d mix the paint as you need it not all at once and I’d move around the car faster and I’d do the inside and underside areas first and with the outside of the car Youll probably want to start from the roof and work it down to the ground
Love the channel. Its hard to straighten a panel with a DA, at least for us non-pros. Get a longboard, flexible.
ruclips.net/video/t8h_kN5GpKM/видео.html
Always busy with something I am same way!
You should have TCP send you some paint for advertising it .I'm going to try it because of you for sure on my 68 c10
You should really consider base / clear for a metallic color. Any runs or sags will be almost impossible to get out because the metallic will still look like a run even if its sanded flat.
Can’t wait to do my duster
That's what she said.
But tcp global has color chips so you can look up the factory color and order it. I ordered petty blue from them to do my motorcycle in.
Love the vids Uncle Tony !! Keepin coming!!👍
Scott from cold war motors is a damn master at getting dents out and body guy he's restoring a 1960 Plymouth Fury and it was all rooted underneath so he spliced a 4 door dart's bottom to the 2 door fury and took all the dents out the trim and that it's just5 amazing the things that guy can do. You should check it out sometime his channel is Cold War Motors it's awesome show I like it anyway.
Good to hear you're getting into the body work. Please wear a respirator rated for ISO this time and not a cigarette. Ciggies come after the paint jobs finished lol.
gettin dusty from the duster lmao keep up the good content
For those hard to reach dents you could use a stud welder and slide hammer combo I've learned a lot of good body work and painting tips from pharraway definitely a channel that worth checking out
Uncle Tony you truly are a MASTER TEC and body work. I HATE body work I would rather pull and rebuild a motor and trans.
Hey uncle tony! Try block sanding the whole car and take your time... for best results. I saw that power sander!! Cheers
Like the video, Tony, man you got a lot going on.
Guide coat your primer ..so you know if your bodywork is good.......guide coat is use on /over your body work .....3coats of primer /sanding type say color grey......then one lite coat of either black or red.....when you block it out you will see your highs and lows......use polyester putty
only use the red putty on final prep work it doesn't work well on bare metal and it shrinks where as the polyester doesn't shrink and works on bare metal .....heres how I see it done
body work to 80 grit or 120..then feather painted areas around it ....3 coats of grey primer surfacer or high build primer .....lite guide coat of say black or red .....block out check for highs or lows ...fix if you noticed by feel/hand ....if pretty good ...3 more coats of primer and one guide coat ..now use your red putty if needed .....primer once more block should be good to go .
Using a high build prime epoxy base will most likely skip one step as per a lacquer base primer.........use fast dry thinner if you are using a lacquer base .....this is old school and it has worked for years even George Baris customs used lacquer based primers ..biggest problem is drying time and need to build up......Epoxy High build primers fast track all of it but BUT some
older paints like Acrylic enamels don't work well .stick well to it so make note of this....there are ways to fudge it ....but ........good guy to watch is My Friend Pete at DIY Auto school.....I've been a body trades person for now 35yrs ...no ...37 yrs Lols ....... hope this helps you
body work 40 to 36 grit ...finished in 80 or 100 grit or better ......1st primer 3x 180 grit ..to 240
2nd 3x primer- 240. to 280 or 320 ......3rd 2to 3xs -primer- 320 to paint...just thought of something..if you are painting your car in hot weather ...use a slow reducer........if you are doing it in cooler weather use a medium reducer ........spray at around 60-5 and depends of temp. and paint flow......you can reduce your final coat out thinner to do a mist coat. this brings out metallics and flows out the paint BUT USE ONLY AFTER THE LAST COAT....think
your car gets 3 coats so 3x around your car you start at the front hood to fender to roof to door to quarter to trunk to back panel to trunk to quarter to roof to door to hood to fender
let it tack up for 10-15 mins .....then repeat but keep going around the car ...no tack up only 1st time ...it holds the paint from runs sags ........if after the last 3rd go around ...you want to do mist coat thin down your paint by 10% and go around again ..........never try to paint a panel
completer ....do it in sections and by panel to panel 1st coat ...go round car second coat go around car 3 coat go around car ......make sure your car surface is clean before any paint or primer goes on the car............My friend Pete @DIY AUTO SCHOOL has many good videos ...with good info but remember he is using todays paint products 70s and 80s don't work with todays paints ..it can but ...to much info. here..I'll just say sealers needed to be used....one last thing if you are spraying metallic and you see Zebra striping ....cross coat ...and then up and down so like a + and try upping the air pressure .......so one coat > and another up and down
You'll get it ...........wish I could show you .....all it takes is practice ...remember ..gun trigger action ...you should always hear air ......practice before doing your next paint job...notice the trigger has 2 steps pull to the 1st ....just air comes out ..this will be where your trigger should be when leaving the panel never release until no air comes from the gun .......2nd trigger pull
this is when you are painting as you paint you start to leave the panel you release to the first trigger step no further ..practice this as it is important ..you only release the trigger when you are finished and off the car not while in painting mode....practice your trigger action..very important ....... become like you are one with the gun ....lols
PLUM CRAZY BABY!!!!!!!!
Replacing a tricky dented area can be good. Have done it myself. But...you might not want to patch over the entire dent in the future. Two layers tight together often rust...like pinch welds. You'll probably be ok since it's up high and your climate ain't bad. A better way is to cut out the dent and make your patch with a qtr. inch overlap. I always drench the headliner w/water for peace of mind. ALSO: *If there are no high spots -* just use filler. Doesn't matter how thick no matter what anyone says. BUT the majority of the filler should be kitty hair. Short-strand fiber reinforced. It's water proof and bullet proof, though you can't finish-sand it. Make sure it's low enough for a layer of regular filler. This will save a lotta fucken around! Lookin' good!
Excited about the motorcycle content!
That BRG paint you're getting, is that the Mazda BRG from the mx-5? If so, it's a really pretty color and not far off from the original. I've had in the past both the mopar sherwood and the miata BRG as factory paint and if I remember correctly, the sherwood was a bit darker while the BRG shows off the metallic a bit better in my opinion.
Good luck on the Duster, one day I'll score another old A-body to play with.
What ever happened with those two young guys that you helped rebuild their Slant 6? About a year ago?
in a sunday night live he said those dudes peaced the heck out and he has never seen or heard them since
@@replica4132 Well that sucks.
@@replica4132 That is an unusual way to describe a situation.
Maybe they had warrants, owed child support or were in Witness Protection and HAD to disappear ??
🌪...nice 1974 (?) plymouth duster project...🌪
i missed the 1st part of this Duster project...does it have a 318 or 360 KA or Magnum engine for "motorvation"??