I'm doing this job right now myself on my 19 Tundra. Got the rear differential plugs loose fairly easy and the fill hole plug on the front came loose easy. The drain plug where you are at is ridiculously tight. I've even tried a Milwaukee 1/2 impact on it and it didn't budge which is unbelievable. The 10mm socket is still going in well so I haven't had to resort to where you are with the Torx bit, yet. That's a big yet. I'm about to hunt up my torch.
It was a nightmare that went on for a couple hours of heating with a torch that I had to go buy from Walmart. The crazy thing is that after using impacts and universal joint with an extension since I couldn't get a straight shot with my big 1/2 Milwaukee impact the first u-joint broke. An actual impact type of U-joint and then I went to the chrome one and it didn't break but, it didn't get the plug loose either. I heated and quenched the drain plug and surrounding metal until the whole housing was uncomfortably warm to the touch. I tried the impact one more time and it still didn't work. Then I thought I'm going to put the breaker bar on it one more time and as soon as I started pushing it came loose with very little effort. I did put the plug back in after draining but, I put anti-seize on the threads this time.
@@DynoSauR4Truth I think heat from a controlled source followed by penetrating oil is the most important factor... That and not getting the socket in the hole cockeyed! Rear diff drain or fill plugs are the same size, I think. I hate it when manufacturers use torx, allen, triple square etc internal bits on hard to reach, tight ass bolts. So dumb lol
@@ramblerclassicman221 one thing to consider is that the penetrating oil is likely not making it to the the threads. It’s not making it past the crush washer which is actually sealing the gear oil into the differential. I still squirted penetrating oil around that plug. I even stuck an ice cube to the back of the plug trying to make it shrink the plug a little while keeping the housing warm. I also saw a video of a specialty tool for this job. It looks like the head of a 24mm socket on one side and immediately on the other side is a male 10mm allen head that is just long enough to stick into the drain plug. So you tap it into the female Allen head until it all the way in and then you can take your 24 mm socket and hopefully spin it out. I tried and tried with my big impact so I don’t know how much more an actual 24mm socket would have helped.
Just stripped the drain plug on my 2011 yesterday. Ordered a replacement that’s not the allen/hex key bullshit. Researching ways to get it out now lol.
@@SlimeInnaTaco unfortunately I can’t find where I bought them. The front diff of the 2nd gen Tacoma is also in a few Lexus cars and the Lexus came with standard plugs instead of the Allen. Can’t find the part numbers sadly.
is it best to Completely remove the driver front wheel, rig on stands, obviously, for the best leverage up close on your shoulder to firmly press on the socket to keep from possibly slipping, if you do not have a service pit for proper leverage so you don't bust your arm? ... i also used a 1/2" hex with 1/2 breaker/ratchet with pipe and looks like you are not using a 1/2" hex?
Did it have oil in it? No oil can cause the bearings to seize and shear the pinion. Were you sending it all the way while in 4wd while turning? If so, did it come down hard on the front end? That’ll snap cv axles, joints and/or pinions or spider gears in pretty short order. Could also be a quality control issue…
Dude I just got mine out. Your video was super helpful bro. This little nightmare was ANNOYING
Absolutely! Hopefully you didnt end up having to weld a nut to the plug and heat the piss out of the differential housing...
I'm doing this job right now myself on my 19 Tundra. Got the rear differential plugs loose fairly easy and the fill hole plug on the front came loose easy. The drain plug where you are at is ridiculously tight. I've even tried a Milwaukee 1/2 impact on it and it didn't budge which is unbelievable. The 10mm socket is still going in well so I haven't had to resort to where you are with the Torx bit, yet. That's a big yet. I'm about to hunt up my torch.
It was a nightmare that went on for a couple hours of heating with a torch that I had to go buy from Walmart. The crazy thing is that after using impacts and universal joint with an extension since I couldn't get a straight shot with my big 1/2 Milwaukee impact the first u-joint broke. An actual impact type of U-joint and then I went to the chrome one and it didn't break but, it didn't get the plug loose either. I heated and quenched the drain plug and surrounding metal until the whole housing was uncomfortably warm to the touch. I tried the impact one more time and it still didn't work. Then I thought I'm going to put the breaker bar on it one more time and as soon as I started pushing it came loose with very little effort. I did put the plug back in after draining but, I put anti-seize on the threads this time.
@@DynoSauR4Truth I think heat from a controlled source followed by penetrating oil is the most important factor... That and not getting the socket in the hole cockeyed! Rear diff drain or fill plugs are the same size, I think. I hate it when manufacturers use torx, allen, triple square etc internal bits on hard to reach, tight ass bolts. So dumb lol
@@ramblerclassicman221 one thing to consider is that the penetrating oil is likely not making it to the the threads. It’s not making it past the crush washer which is actually sealing the gear oil into the differential. I still squirted penetrating oil around that plug. I even stuck an ice cube to the back of the plug trying to make it shrink the plug a little while keeping the housing warm. I also saw a video of a specialty tool for this job. It looks like the head of a 24mm socket on one side and immediately on the other side is a male 10mm allen head that is just long enough to stick into the drain plug. So you tap it into the female Allen head until it all the way in and then you can take your 24 mm socket and hopefully spin it out. I tried and tried with my big impact so I don’t know how much more an actual 24mm socket would have helped.
@@DynoSauR4Truth did you use copper anti-seize?
@@JAY-97-97it was more silver in color. It could have had some copper in it I guess.
Just stripped the drain plug on my 2011 yesterday. Ordered a replacement that’s not the allen/hex key bullshit. Researching ways to get it out now lol.
Heat and shock are the best methods I’ve found…
@@ramblerclassicman221 Yessir, put a notch in it with a hammer and chisel and then bashed on the notch from the side and it came right out.
Do you have a link to the replacement that isn’t Alan?
@@SlimeInnaTaco at the gym, gimme an hour
@@SlimeInnaTaco unfortunately I can’t find where I bought them. The front diff of the 2nd gen Tacoma is also in a few Lexus cars and the Lexus came with standard plugs instead of the Allen. Can’t find the part numbers sadly.
is it best to Completely remove the driver front wheel, rig on stands, obviously, for the best leverage up close on your shoulder to firmly press on the socket to keep from possibly slipping, if you do not have a service pit for proper leverage so you don't bust your arm? ... i also used a 1/2" hex with 1/2 breaker/ratchet with pipe and looks like you are not using a 1/2" hex?
Mechanic says i broke my 2017 front diff. how does that even happen.
Did it have oil in it? No oil can cause the bearings to seize and shear the pinion.
Were you sending it all the way while in 4wd while turning? If so, did it come down hard on the front end? That’ll snap cv axles, joints and/or pinions or spider gears in pretty short order.
Could also be a quality control issue…