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@@mikekitcarson4987 do you know how to hail PIG??? 🐽

@@ramblerclassicman221 cute!some of you you tubers have no common sense with filming

@@mikekitcarson4987 thanks b 😉 ♥️ Some of you commenters have no common sense when it comes to hailing PIG 🐽

@@LM-mc2lm yo thats actually super good to know!!! I got the 6 speed back in my truck today, was going to fill it with amsoil but i might switch to redline… Thanks for mentioning that

My condolances... Garbage in, garbage out? Lol my PCM wasn't even trying

@@ramblerclassicman221 nearly the same voltage readings, which is peculiar I feel. However I have just replaced the ME9.7 module, so I don’t really have a next step right now.

@@ramblerclassicman221 what specifically are you referring to when you say PCM? The unit mounted on top of the engine? Or something located elsewhere. It’s been a slightly frustrating journey to now lol

@@ughretweetme6558 honestly no clue. Stupid krauts cant label shit lol i have no clue what module theyre specifying. “ME-SFI” is probably the one on top of the engine. Cant trace through the harness tho since theres a load of resistors inside computers hooked up…

@@etienne8397 lmao no been too busy with school and work fml. U?

@@ramblerclassicman221 i am waiting from parts from Japan to rebuild my E351 out of my Matrix. OEM parts were cheaper than rebuild kit when ordered from Japan

@@etienne8397 I feel that... I went with a Standard Gear rebuild kit - pricey but the bearings are good. damned synchros are chinese sourced tho. Hoping they work... good luck with your tranny btw

@@ramblerclassicman221thank you. <$700 for all the trans parts (bearings, seals, synchros, and a 3-4 sleeve) ordered from Amayama. they got the parts shipped decently quick too. my 3rd gear synchro cone looks very similar to yours except it’s a one piece. it has the vertical gripping surfaces on the inside of the cone like yours. doing the tear down because of third and second gear grinding. third being the worst. ended up wearing down the teeth on a shifter sleeve and luckily that took most of the damage. prev owner never changed gear oil. it’s pretty nasty on the inside. lmk if you want pics. looking forward to your rebuild vid

@@GSKYYT ty king

@@ruaraimckenna you’re correct! I was high… on life

@@n150cz9 damnit i should have tagged you in this one. I knew youd love it

@@ramblerclassicman221 hahaha 🤣

@@sageheroux6348 FURTout amirite hahahahahahah 🐷

What does the spring in the guide block do?

Huh didnt see ur comment till now. What part of the governor assembly are you referring to? The centripetal force of the fly weights pushes and pulls the weight basket and rack back and forward. There should be a small fine gauge wire coil spring inside the guide stud that pushes it slightly forward to give fuel at idle iirc. Lmk a timestamp in here - can have a gander

There is a separate seal for the plunger in the one-inch nut. I'd advise you to look at my newer video on tearing down the pump. IIRC I shew the seal, both removal and installation (with tips).

Huh interesting, didnt have any problems swapping clutch components between years. You might bring yours to a wrecking yard and compare it to other rigs sitting there.

@@ramblerclassicman221 I think you are right even though the parts catalogue says otherwise, rock auto shows the same part for 83-86 clutch fork. Some claim to be available online, but none of them look like the actual clutch fork so I think you can’t find a clutch fork these trucks anymore (online anyway). No junkyards near me. Will reman the old one. Part "E4TZ7515B"

That's because you're not hailing PIG enough...

It’s pretty damn clear on my phone.🤷‍♂️

My condolences!!

It was a nightmare that went on for a couple hours of heating with a torch that I had to go buy from Walmart. The crazy thing is that after using impacts and universal joint with an extension since I couldn't get a straight shot with my big 1/2 Milwaukee impact the first u-joint broke. An actual impact type of U-joint and then I went to the chrome one and it didn't break but, it didn't get the plug loose either. I heated and quenched the drain plug and surrounding metal until the whole housing was uncomfortably warm to the touch. I tried the impact one more time and it still didn't work. Then I thought I'm going to put the breaker bar on it one more time and as soon as I started pushing it came loose with very little effort. I did put the plug back in after draining but, I put anti-seize on the threads this time.

@@DynoSauR4Truth I think heat from a controlled source followed by penetrating oil is the most important factor... That and not getting the socket in the hole cockeyed! Rear diff drain or fill plugs are the same size, I think. I hate it when manufacturers use torx, allen, triple square etc internal bits on hard to reach, tight ass bolts. So dumb lol

@@ramblerclassicman221 one thing to consider is that the penetrating oil is likely not making it to the the threads. It’s not making it past the crush washer which is actually sealing the gear oil into the differential. I still squirted penetrating oil around that plug. I even stuck an ice cube to the back of the plug trying to make it shrink the plug a little while keeping the housing warm. I also saw a video of a specialty tool for this job. It looks like the head of a 24mm socket on one side and immediately on the other side is a male 10mm allen head that is just long enough to stick into the drain plug. So you tap it into the female Allen head until it all the way in and then you can take your 24 mm socket and hopefully spin it out. I tried and tried with my big impact so I don’t know how much more an actual 24mm socket would have helped.

@@DynoSauR4Truth did you use copper anti-seize?

@@JAY-97-97it was more silver in color. It could have had some copper in it I guess.

not sure... both engines i put in it were facked, one had basically no head gasket and the other threw a rod after 20 miles. I parted it out, which was a shame since the body was basically flawless. zero rust, mint patina. Ive got an 84 6.9 now, its got panel rust but its in mechanically way better shape. sad, but i guess we all learn

@@ramblerclassicman221 sad to hear because that body was mint, I’ve got a rusty 83 with an amazing engine and decent frame… these trucks are amazing and I hope I can save mine. I assume it’s the white one on your vids, looks great… you don’t know rust till you’ve seen the trucks up here in Canada lol. Take care.

Turbo or non-turbo? What altitude you run at? Hows the injection pump doing? Hard starts when hot? Tested the injection nozzles lately? IDIs smoke black when at full fuel. Turbo and non-turbo trucks smoke about the same amount. Excessive smoke usually indicates a faulty injector overfueling a cylinder. High altitude means the trucks run comparatively richer for the same fuel volume.

It’s non turbo. I believe it’s probably over fueling. Thank you for your time

Hence, the saying "Rollin' Coal".

Being blessed with aspergers is a truly "liberating" experience...

@@ramblerclassicman221 more like we're cursed. I have it too.

Absolutely! Hopefully you didnt end up having to weld a nut to the plug and heat the piss out of the differential housing...

I found a dealer by searching online - I searched for Stanadyne dealer Montana (my area) and the web browser returned local dealers (none closer than 90 miles, it's sparse up here). Alternatively, you could ask a local diesel shop if they know who your local Stanadyne dealer is. Stanadyne dealers are often diesel service shops, i.e. pump, injector and nozzle suppliers and rebuilders. If there's no one local, you can order parts through a far-away dealer and have them shipped to you, or to a shop. Thats how I had to do it, it took a couple days by mail. I think the parts kit was about 40 bucks shipped. A wavy washer is 5 dollars; a cam ring is about 150 new, 80 used; a one-piece weight basket will run upwards of 180 dollars (don't cheap out on this one if you need it!) Other parts you will have to run by dealers, as I don't have a reference.

@@ramblerclassicman221 thank you for this am searching. Also mine has bad oil consumption black blue smoke all the time. Pump and injectors are stock not turned up. Think the rings are worn out time for a rebuild. Have alot of miles on her. Been driving on original motor for 37 years now!

@@ramblerclassicman221 also what could be reason for very poor fuel milage?? All filters recent changed and engine oil/filter

@@user-km3sg1hy9s Afternoon! As to your first question - oil change intervals beyond 5000 miles/1 year will (as with most other American made big block gas and diesel engines) wear the rings (non-turbo spec 6.9 and 7.3 IDIs use square cut rings which have a penchant for wearing cylinder walls and allowing blowby - resulting in oil consumption and excessive crankcase pressures), piston skirts, cylinder walls and valve guides prematurely. It can also damage the lifters, lifter bores and camshaft, as International IDI diesels are hydraulic tappet engines. Short trip/In town driving (less than 5 miles) is also hard on engines - it doesnt allow components to attain operating temperature and thermally expand, oil starvation at startup can be an issue, (and especially with gas engines) water accumulation in the oil which isn't burnt off by longer run times will damage components, especially bearings and cylinder walls. Diesel fuel accumulation in the oil (from a bad nozzle) can cause excessive wear. Not sure of your particular oil change schedule; however, a 37-year lifespan is a pretty good run for one of these! That being said, they will run with dead valves, cracked valve seats, blown head gaskets, thrown rods, worn rings, bad injectors etc. I've owned/own rigs with all of these symptoms; these engines are stout! My truck burns oil, about two quarts every tank of fuel. I figure it's an issue with the rings; I will build a 7.3 and put it in the old girl at some point. For now, the 6.9 stays as I'm beyond broke! The other major culprit is insufficient injection nozzle maintenance - the nozzles need to be removed from the engine and tested for pattern and pop pressure every 50,000 miles. Bad nozzles will leak fuel drops and quickly wash the cylinder walls down with diesel fuel, causing rapid wear between the cylinder walls and piston rings (diesel, while a light oil is not a sufficient lubricant for the pressures and temperatures experienced by the materials present in the upper cylinder). A few symptoms to watch for: white smoke at idle, overheating at idle, excessive fuel consumption, although these can also indicate blown head gaskets or other issues. Failed injectors will commonly 'blow torch' holes through the pistons of direct injection diesels, especially tuned heavy haul rigs. A pet hypothesis of mine is that bad nozzles contribute to the chronic issues with cracked valve seats and heads these engines suffer with. By adding excessive fuel - thus heat to a cylinder, bad nozzles cause odd thermal behaviours (insufficient heat dissipation, work hardening and fatigue) in the metals used for the head and valve seat, ultimately leading to failure (cracking). While cracks between valve seats in the cylinder heads don't appear to cause problems (i.e. coolant loss) they can propagate and spread to the valve seats. Cracked valve seats will lower compression on a cylinder and can cause a misfire. My truck has a misfire when cold which I attribute to a burned valve or cracked seat. It seems mainly exhaust seats crack/cause problems and can be heard as a ticking out the exhaust (newer turbo spec IDIs have Inconel or chromed exhaust valves - i dont remember which - but they seem to hold up better). I will say, cracked heads and valve seats are common problems with diesel engines - 24 valve ISB cummins are a common example this. Ive heard stated from others that cracked heads aren't a problem if the cracks dont compromise the head through to an oil passage, coolant passage, head gasket or valve seat... All this to say: I think the cause of your high fuel consumption is attributable to multiple causes. Diagnosis would require testing a few parts of the engine - compression test would indicate if a cylinder were low and can help pinpoint sources of oil consumption/low compression. A leak down test is a great way of indicating the health of the cylinder head and head gaskets, intake and exhaust valves, valve seats, and pistons+rings+cylinder walls. A "cylinder contribution test" consists of cracking each of the nozzle supply lines loose at the injection nozzle, rendering them inoperative while the engine is running. This can indicate if a cylinder has issues, by eliminating white smoke or causing no change in engine rpm (indicating the cylinder is not firing). In conclusion, most commonly for these engines (in my experience) a combination of worn rings and cracked valve seats/burnt valves is responsible for a lack of power, excessive smoke and poor fuel economy. If you're looking to rebuild and stay with the IDI platform engine - I would recommend finding a core 7.3 IDI, especially out of an original turbo spec truck (different rods, pistons, wrist pins, rings - tougher overall) and have a machine shop go through the engine. 6.9s, while good mills are becoming increasingly difficult to find parts for and have more valvetrain/head problems than 7.3s (generally). Otherwise, put thicker oil in the crankcase over the summer and run the old gal! Good luck out there!

@@ramblerclassicman221 wow! I'm doing all the above you described! Leak down test/compression. Will have results on that soon. I run nothing but 15w40 diesel oil in my truck it's entire life. I live south carolina. Winters down here don't get that cold amd rare to see snow!! Just started having shifting problems found out vaccume pump bad and few other things. My brakes were hanging up siezing caliper and early head gasket? It bubbles in the resivor tank if I drive it say 20bmiles or so. I live in the middle of nowhere it takes 30 minutes nearest town

Use a search engine to find your local Stanadyne dealer. They will be your best source for updated, quality, factory spec parts and information/answers to questions you will inevitably have. You could take a chanse on random pumps and pump parts from online stores but I personally don't trust them any further than I can throw them, and since they're in the aether of the inter-webs, I can't throw them...

Then mute your speakers

Fo sho!

Lmao its maybe the most garbage part of these engines. So friggin cheap

Id recommend contacting your local stanadyne dealer and seeing what prices are like both for parts and for a reman pump. Theyre pretty easy to rebuild ngl but if youre in sw montana i could probably build one