I got 06 access 4.0 4x4 6sp manual. Mine was doing the same thing. I was running ams oil 75w-90. I switched to red line mt90 and it fixed the 2 to 3rd gear grinding
@@LM-mc2lm yo thats actually super good to know!!! I got the 6 speed back in my truck today, was going to fill it with amsoil but i might switch to redline… Thanks for mentioning that
@@ramblerclassicman221 ya no problem! I did some more digging and it looks like the 1st gen 5speed manuals and our 2nd gen 6 speed manual’s gear box along with transfer case do better with gl-4 fluid ( which is redline mt-90). Our front and rear differentials like the GL-5. Let me know how it goes!
@@ramblerclassicman221 ya no problem! I did use and oil 75w90 gl5. If you do use ams oil I would use their 75w90 gl4. It seems these trans do better with gl4 over time
@@LM-mc2lm for sure. I got the tranny together a couple weeks ago. Ran amsoil gl-4 to break it in and drained it after 200 miles. Was full of brass particles lol Now running redline mt-90. It shifts better meow. I dont like the way the three piece synchros shift though… clunky for sure.
@@LM-mc2lm oh and theres some hearsay that gl5 is too acidic for the brass and will eat the synchros given time due to an oxidation - reduction reaction. Not sure but i think ur right, gl4 is the way to go
My 08 grinds in 3rd also if I make it do it. I usually let my rpms go down before changing. I'll definitely have to check into the 2010 synchros swap. Mine also has the throughout bearing chirp aswell. 202k miles. Started grinding after I got it at about 140k.
For the throwout bearing, theres some good forums in adjusting the pedal. The pedal has to be far enough out the bearing doesnt ride against the fingers of the pressure plate when not engaged. The synchros… transmission parts distributors online have a pretty comprehensive bearing and synchro kit for these, they come with updated parts from the third iteration of the transmission
@@ramblerclassicman221 I tried adjusting the pedal but had no luck, just a hurt back and neck lol. When I was adjusting the pedal I was hoping to take up the play in it but it started interfering with how it operated originally so I put it back to normal. Not sure if I was doing it correctly though.
@@52darkhorse i dont remember which forum i was looking at but someone had detailed very well how to adjust the clutch… a haynes manual, the Mitchell manual (pro demand) at napa or carquest, or the toyota dealer oe service info would be where id go to figure out how to adjust it
@@52darkhorse I’m glad you mentioned throw out bearing chirp. I have went down this rabbit hole. Mine started chirping at 70k miles and the chirping got more constant/annoying by the time I hit 130k miles. At that point I used a local shop that specializes in Toyotas/ Lexus. They installed new clutch, TB, and shifter bushings. The chirp went away for 3k miles then it came back. The shop did warranty the work and parts so they opened the trans up again and installed another TB. 2k more miles the chirp came back. I found that URD makes a throw out bearing kit and I had them install it. My clutch feels smoother and the chirp hasn’t come back yet (but it’s only been about 1400 miles since the URD kit was installed).
@LM-mc2lm I'm fixing to replace the spring in the slave cylinder with a new one. I saw a forum saying that it's why the bearing rides against the pressure plate because that spring is worn and not pulling the throughout bearing back far enough. If it works, I'll let you know. Some people say these trucks come with the bearing touching the pressure plates, but that's not true because it took my truck until 130k to start chirping. Then you replace it, and it comes back in 4k miles. Because over time, im guessing that spring is getting weaker and weaker, causing the bearing to move closer over time to the pressure plates. The bearing is only supposed to spin when you push the clutch it. It wasn't designed to spin 24/7.
I got 06 access 4.0 4x4 6sp manual. Mine was doing the same thing. I was running ams oil 75w-90.
I switched to red line mt90 and it fixed the 2 to 3rd gear grinding
@@LM-mc2lm yo thats actually super good to know!!!
I got the 6 speed back in my truck today, was going to fill it with amsoil but i might switch to redline…
Thanks for mentioning that
@@ramblerclassicman221 ya no problem!
I did some more digging and it looks like the 1st gen 5speed manuals and our 2nd gen 6 speed manual’s gear box along with transfer case do better with gl-4 fluid ( which is redline mt-90). Our front and rear differentials like the GL-5.
Let me know how it goes!
@@ramblerclassicman221 ya no problem! I did use and oil 75w90 gl5.
If you do use ams oil I would use their 75w90 gl4. It seems these trans do better with gl4 over time
@@LM-mc2lm for sure. I got the tranny together a couple weeks ago. Ran amsoil gl-4 to break it in and drained it after 200 miles. Was full of brass particles lol
Now running redline mt-90. It shifts better meow. I dont like the way the three piece synchros shift though… clunky for sure.
@@LM-mc2lm oh and theres some hearsay that gl5 is too acidic for the brass and will eat the synchros given time due to an oxidation - reduction reaction. Not sure but i think ur right, gl4 is the way to go
My 08 grinds in 3rd also if I make it do it. I usually let my rpms go down before changing. I'll definitely have to check into the 2010 synchros swap. Mine also has the throughout bearing chirp aswell. 202k miles. Started grinding after I got it at about 140k.
For the throwout bearing, theres some good forums in adjusting the pedal. The pedal has to be far enough out the bearing doesnt ride against the fingers of the pressure plate when not engaged.
The synchros… transmission parts distributors online have a pretty comprehensive bearing and synchro kit for these, they come with updated parts from the third iteration of the transmission
@@ramblerclassicman221 I tried adjusting the pedal but had no luck, just a hurt back and neck lol. When I was adjusting the pedal I was hoping to take up the play in it but it started interfering with how it operated originally so I put it back to normal. Not sure if I was doing it correctly though.
@@52darkhorse i dont remember which forum i was looking at but someone had detailed very well how to adjust the clutch… a haynes manual, the Mitchell manual (pro demand) at napa or carquest, or the toyota dealer oe service info would be where id go to figure out how to adjust it
@@52darkhorse I’m glad you mentioned throw out bearing chirp. I have went down this rabbit hole. Mine started chirping at 70k miles and the chirping got more constant/annoying by the time I hit 130k miles. At that point I used a local shop that specializes in Toyotas/ Lexus. They installed new clutch, TB, and shifter bushings. The chirp went away for 3k miles then it came back. The shop did warranty the work and parts so they opened the trans up again and installed another TB. 2k more miles the chirp came back. I found that URD makes a throw out bearing kit and I had them install it. My clutch feels smoother and the chirp hasn’t come back yet (but it’s only been about 1400 miles since the URD kit was installed).
@LM-mc2lm I'm fixing to replace the spring in the slave cylinder with a new one. I saw a forum saying that it's why the bearing rides against the pressure plate because that spring is worn and not pulling the throughout bearing back far enough. If it works, I'll let you know. Some people say these trucks come with the bearing touching the pressure plates, but that's not true because it took my truck until 130k to start chirping. Then you replace it, and it comes back in 4k miles. Because over time, im guessing that spring is getting weaker and weaker, causing the bearing to move closer over time to the pressure plates. The bearing is only supposed to spin when you push the clutch it. It wasn't designed to spin 24/7.