Helpful tip I learned for reaching over grills and fenders on those tall trucks, pull the valve stem core to let the air out of the front tires, it'll drop the front down like 4-5 inches depending on sidewall height, then when you're done with repairs you just air tires back up.
Id recommend contacting your local stanadyne dealer and seeing what prices are like both for parts and for a reman pump. Theyre pretty easy to rebuild ngl but if youre in sw montana i could probably build one
@@michaelc843 hello very much - I possess no part number for the wavy washer. I recommend calling your local stanadyne dealer with the pump part number and asking for a wavy washer. You may have to internet search for your local stanadyne dealer. International service centers will also know, as many of their older engines used stanadyne pumps. Thansk.
@@ramblerclassicman221thank you for the reply I’ll call them with the pump number and see what they say. Also if I pull my pump and rebuild it myself what’s the worry about timing I can’t find much information on it. Pulling the pump apart will that mess up my timing of the pump?
Hello i own a 1986 f250 4x4 6.9 idi c6 truck. Ive had it since new. Over the years ive replaced with parts store reman pumps. Im a old guy now amd going through divorce and sickness. I need some help. I am a retired heavy diesel mechanic. I have tools also. Questions #1 where are you finding a dealer for parts? There are none in my area. #2 cost of the parts kit... i have the rebuild manual for db2 injection pump
I found a dealer by searching online - I searched for Stanadyne dealer Montana (my area) and the web browser returned local dealers (none closer than 90 miles, it's sparse up here). Alternatively, you could ask a local diesel shop if they know who your local Stanadyne dealer is. Stanadyne dealers are often diesel service shops, i.e. pump, injector and nozzle suppliers and rebuilders. If there's no one local, you can order parts through a far-away dealer and have them shipped to you, or to a shop. Thats how I had to do it, it took a couple days by mail. I think the parts kit was about 40 bucks shipped. A wavy washer is 5 dollars; a cam ring is about 150 new, 80 used; a one-piece weight basket will run upwards of 180 dollars (don't cheap out on this one if you need it!) Other parts you will have to run by dealers, as I don't have a reference.
@@ramblerclassicman221 thank you for this am searching. Also mine has bad oil consumption black blue smoke all the time. Pump and injectors are stock not turned up. Think the rings are worn out time for a rebuild. Have alot of miles on her. Been driving on original motor for 37 years now!
@@Jefforey Afternoon! As to your first question - oil change intervals beyond 5000 miles/1 year will (as with most other American made big block gas and diesel engines) wear the rings (non-turbo spec 6.9 and 7.3 IDIs use square cut rings which have a penchant for wearing cylinder walls and allowing blowby - resulting in oil consumption and excessive crankcase pressures), piston skirts, cylinder walls and valve guides prematurely. It can also damage the lifters, lifter bores and camshaft, as International IDI diesels are hydraulic tappet engines. Short trip/In town driving (less than 5 miles) is also hard on engines - it doesnt allow components to attain operating temperature and thermally expand, oil starvation at startup can be an issue, (and especially with gas engines) water accumulation in the oil which isn't burnt off by longer run times will damage components, especially bearings and cylinder walls. Diesel fuel accumulation in the oil (from a bad nozzle) can cause excessive wear. Not sure of your particular oil change schedule; however, a 37-year lifespan is a pretty good run for one of these! That being said, they will run with dead valves, cracked valve seats, blown head gaskets, thrown rods, worn rings, bad injectors etc. I've owned/own rigs with all of these symptoms; these engines are stout! My truck burns oil, about two quarts every tank of fuel. I figure it's an issue with the rings; I will build a 7.3 and put it in the old girl at some point. For now, the 6.9 stays as I'm beyond broke! The other major culprit is insufficient injection nozzle maintenance - the nozzles need to be removed from the engine and tested for pattern and pop pressure every 50,000 miles. Bad nozzles will leak fuel drops and quickly wash the cylinder walls down with diesel fuel, causing rapid wear between the cylinder walls and piston rings (diesel, while a light oil is not a sufficient lubricant for the pressures and temperatures experienced by the materials present in the upper cylinder). A few symptoms to watch for: white smoke at idle, overheating at idle, excessive fuel consumption, although these can also indicate blown head gaskets or other issues. Failed injectors will commonly 'blow torch' holes through the pistons of direct injection diesels, especially tuned heavy haul rigs. A pet hypothesis of mine is that bad nozzles contribute to the chronic issues with cracked valve seats and heads these engines suffer with. By adding excessive fuel - thus heat to a cylinder, bad nozzles cause odd thermal behaviours (insufficient heat dissipation, work hardening and fatigue) in the metals used for the head and valve seat, ultimately leading to failure (cracking). While cracks between valve seats in the cylinder heads don't appear to cause problems (i.e. coolant loss) they can propagate and spread to the valve seats. Cracked valve seats will lower compression on a cylinder and can cause a misfire. My truck has a misfire when cold which I attribute to a burned valve or cracked seat. It seems mainly exhaust seats crack/cause problems and can be heard as a ticking out the exhaust (newer turbo spec IDIs have Inconel or chromed exhaust valves - i dont remember which - but they seem to hold up better). I will say, cracked heads and valve seats are common problems with diesel engines - 24 valve ISB cummins are a common example this. Ive heard stated from others that cracked heads aren't a problem if the cracks dont compromise the head through to an oil passage, coolant passage, head gasket or valve seat... All this to say: I think the cause of your high fuel consumption is attributable to multiple causes. Diagnosis would require testing a few parts of the engine - compression test would indicate if a cylinder were low and can help pinpoint sources of oil consumption/low compression. A leak down test is a great way of indicating the health of the cylinder head and head gaskets, intake and exhaust valves, valve seats, and pistons+rings+cylinder walls. A "cylinder contribution test" consists of cracking each of the nozzle supply lines loose at the injection nozzle, rendering them inoperative while the engine is running. This can indicate if a cylinder has issues, by eliminating white smoke or causing no change in engine rpm (indicating the cylinder is not firing). In conclusion, most commonly for these engines (in my experience) a combination of worn rings and cracked valve seats/burnt valves is responsible for a lack of power, excessive smoke and poor fuel economy. If you're looking to rebuild and stay with the IDI platform engine - I would recommend finding a core 7.3 IDI, especially out of an original turbo spec truck (different rods, pistons, wrist pins, rings - tougher overall) and have a machine shop go through the engine. 6.9s, while good mills are becoming increasingly difficult to find parts for and have more valvetrain/head problems than 7.3s (generally). Otherwise, put thicker oil in the crankcase over the summer and run the old gal! Good luck out there!
@@ramblerclassicman221 wow! I'm doing all the above you described! Leak down test/compression. Will have results on that soon. I run nothing but 15w40 diesel oil in my truck it's entire life. I live south carolina. Winters down here don't get that cold amd rare to see snow!! Just started having shifting problems found out vaccume pump bad and few other things. My brakes were hanging up siezing caliper and early head gasket? It bubbles in the resivor tank if I drive it say 20bmiles or so. I live in the middle of nowhere it takes 30 minutes nearest town
Huh didnt see ur comment till now. What part of the governor assembly are you referring to? The centripetal force of the fly weights pushes and pulls the weight basket and rack back and forward. There should be a small fine gauge wire coil spring inside the guide stud that pushes it slightly forward to give fuel at idle iirc. Lmk a timestamp in here - can have a gander
Use a search engine to find your local Stanadyne dealer. They will be your best source for updated, quality, factory spec parts and information/answers to questions you will inevitably have. You could take a chanse on random pumps and pump parts from online stores but I personally don't trust them any further than I can throw them, and since they're in the aether of the inter-webs, I can't throw them...
Helpful tip I learned for reaching over grills and fenders on those tall trucks, pull the valve stem core to let the air out of the front tires, it'll drop the front down like 4-5 inches depending on sidewall height, then when you're done with repairs you just air tires back up.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
@@alpinehs i am truly sorry for my sins
Lol @ how calm your voice it and then "you little shit" out of the blue.
Comical and informative. I like it.
Being blessed with aspergers is a truly "liberating" experience...
@@ramblerclassicman221 more like we're cursed. I have it too.
Nice Ferd Petard
This pig-libtard finna piss on a bitch
If I buy you a new headlamp will you rebuild my pump for me?? Awesome video
Id recommend contacting your local stanadyne dealer and seeing what prices are like both for parts and for a reman pump. Theyre pretty easy to rebuild ngl but if youre in sw montana i could probably build one
Hello, I’m just wondering if you have a part number or anything on the wave washer for this pump or do I just buy “stanadyne wave washer”?
@@michaelc843 hello very much -
I possess no part number for the wavy washer. I recommend calling your local stanadyne dealer with the pump part number and asking for a wavy washer. You may have to internet search for your local stanadyne dealer. International service centers will also know, as many of their older engines used stanadyne pumps.
Thansk.
@@ramblerclassicman221thank you for the reply I’ll call them with the pump number and see what they say. Also if I pull my pump and rebuild it myself what’s the worry about timing I can’t find much information on it. Pulling the pump apart will that mess up my timing of the pump?
Hello i own a 1986 f250 4x4 6.9 idi c6 truck. Ive had it since new. Over the years ive replaced with parts store reman pumps. Im a old guy now amd going through divorce and sickness. I need some help. I am a retired heavy diesel mechanic. I have tools also. Questions #1 where are you finding a dealer for parts? There are none in my area. #2 cost of the parts kit... i have the rebuild manual for db2 injection pump
I found a dealer by searching online - I searched for Stanadyne dealer Montana (my area) and the web browser returned local dealers (none closer than 90 miles, it's sparse up here).
Alternatively, you could ask a local diesel shop if they know who your local Stanadyne dealer is. Stanadyne dealers are often diesel service shops, i.e. pump, injector and nozzle suppliers and rebuilders. If there's no one local, you can order parts through a far-away dealer and have them shipped to you, or to a shop. Thats how I had to do it, it took a couple days by mail.
I think the parts kit was about 40 bucks shipped. A wavy washer is 5 dollars; a cam ring is about 150 new, 80 used; a one-piece weight basket will run upwards of 180 dollars (don't cheap out on this one if you need it!) Other parts you will have to run by dealers, as I don't have a reference.
@@ramblerclassicman221 thank you for this am searching. Also mine has bad oil consumption black blue smoke all the time. Pump and injectors are stock not turned up. Think the rings are worn out time for a rebuild. Have alot of miles on her. Been driving on original motor for 37 years now!
@@ramblerclassicman221 also what could be reason for very poor fuel milage?? All filters recent changed and engine oil/filter
@@Jefforey
Afternoon!
As to your first question - oil change intervals beyond 5000 miles/1 year will (as with most other American made big block gas and diesel engines) wear the rings (non-turbo spec 6.9 and 7.3 IDIs use square cut rings which have a penchant for wearing cylinder walls and allowing blowby - resulting in oil consumption and excessive crankcase pressures), piston skirts, cylinder walls and valve guides prematurely. It can also damage the lifters, lifter bores and camshaft, as International IDI diesels are hydraulic tappet engines. Short trip/In town driving (less than 5 miles) is also hard on engines - it doesnt allow components to attain operating temperature and thermally expand, oil starvation at startup can be an issue, (and especially with gas engines) water accumulation in the oil which isn't burnt off by longer run times will damage components, especially bearings and cylinder walls. Diesel fuel accumulation in the oil (from a bad nozzle) can cause excessive wear. Not sure of your particular oil change schedule; however, a 37-year lifespan is a pretty good run for one of these! That being said, they will run with dead valves, cracked valve seats, blown head gaskets, thrown rods, worn rings, bad injectors etc. I've owned/own rigs with all of these symptoms; these engines are stout! My truck burns oil, about two quarts every tank of fuel. I figure it's an issue with the rings; I will build a 7.3 and put it in the old girl at some point. For now, the 6.9 stays as I'm beyond broke!
The other major culprit is insufficient injection nozzle maintenance - the nozzles need to be removed from the engine and tested for pattern and pop pressure every 50,000 miles. Bad nozzles will leak fuel drops and quickly wash the cylinder walls down with diesel fuel, causing rapid wear between the cylinder walls and piston rings (diesel, while a light oil is not a sufficient lubricant for the pressures and temperatures experienced by the materials present in the upper cylinder). A few symptoms to watch for: white smoke at idle, overheating at idle, excessive fuel consumption, although these can also indicate blown head gaskets or other issues. Failed injectors will commonly 'blow torch' holes through the pistons of direct injection diesels, especially tuned heavy haul rigs.
A pet hypothesis of mine is that bad nozzles contribute to the chronic issues with cracked valve seats and heads these engines suffer with. By adding excessive fuel - thus heat to a cylinder, bad nozzles cause odd thermal behaviours (insufficient heat dissipation, work hardening and fatigue) in the metals used for the head and valve seat, ultimately leading to failure (cracking). While cracks between valve seats in the cylinder heads don't appear to cause problems (i.e. coolant loss) they can propagate and spread to the valve seats. Cracked valve seats will lower compression on a cylinder and can cause a misfire. My truck has a misfire when cold which I attribute to a burned valve or cracked seat. It seems mainly exhaust seats crack/cause problems and can be heard as a ticking out the exhaust (newer turbo spec IDIs have Inconel or chromed exhaust valves - i dont remember which - but they seem to hold up better). I will say, cracked heads and valve seats are common problems with diesel engines - 24 valve ISB cummins are a common example this. Ive heard stated from others that cracked heads aren't a problem if the cracks dont compromise the head through to an oil passage, coolant passage, head gasket or valve seat...
All this to say: I think the cause of your high fuel consumption is attributable to multiple causes. Diagnosis would require testing a few parts of the engine - compression test would indicate if a cylinder were low and can help pinpoint sources of oil consumption/low compression. A leak down test is a great way of indicating the health of the cylinder head and head gaskets, intake and exhaust valves, valve seats, and pistons+rings+cylinder walls. A "cylinder contribution test" consists of cracking each of the nozzle supply lines loose at the injection nozzle, rendering them inoperative while the engine is running. This can indicate if a cylinder has issues, by eliminating white smoke or causing no change in engine rpm (indicating the cylinder is not firing).
In conclusion, most commonly for these engines (in my experience) a combination of worn rings and cracked valve seats/burnt valves is responsible for a lack of power, excessive smoke and poor fuel economy. If you're looking to rebuild and stay with the IDI platform engine - I would recommend finding a core 7.3 IDI, especially out of an original turbo spec truck (different rods, pistons, wrist pins, rings - tougher overall) and have a machine shop go through the engine. 6.9s, while good mills are becoming increasingly difficult to find parts for and have more valvetrain/head problems than 7.3s (generally). Otherwise, put thicker oil in the crankcase over the summer and run the old gal!
Good luck out there!
@@ramblerclassicman221 wow! I'm doing all the above you described! Leak down test/compression. Will have results on that soon. I run nothing but 15w40 diesel oil in my truck it's entire life. I live south carolina. Winters down here don't get that cold amd rare to see snow!! Just started having shifting problems found out vaccume pump bad and few other things. My brakes were hanging up siezing caliper and early head gasket? It bubbles in the resivor tank if I drive it say 20bmiles or so. I live in the middle of nowhere it takes 30 minutes nearest town
What gives the governor its spring. Mine does not have any resistance. It does not spring back.
What does the spring in the guide block do?
Huh didnt see ur comment till now.
What part of the governor assembly are you referring to? The centripetal force of the fly weights pushes and pulls the weight basket and rack back and forward.
There should be a small fine gauge wire coil spring inside the guide stud that pushes it slightly forward to give fuel at idle iirc.
Lmk a timestamp in here - can have a gander
Where do you find the rebuild kit?
Use a search engine to find your local Stanadyne dealer. They will be your best source for updated, quality, factory spec parts and information/answers to questions you will inevitably have.
You could take a chanse on random pumps and pump parts from online stores but I personally don't trust them any further than I can throw them, and since they're in the aether of the inter-webs, I can't throw them...
Your audio is junk I can't hear nothing of what your saying
That's because you're not hailing PIG enough...
It’s pretty damn clear on my phone.🤷♂️