could you make the sliding part more trapezoidal with a long magnet to help with wobble? Also maybe adding a small nub, like a screw with a slot on the leg of the original handle/stand connector an then a slot in the barrel you insert to? Good luck with your projects either way :)
I love how the first 2 1/2 minutes of this video could be summed up with “Hi I’m Bob and I like to make stuff, I’m making this because I like to make stuff, I know I could do other things but the channel is not called I like to buy stuff”
I've 3d printed a lot of refrigerator magnets and never put tape on any of the magnets. I have lightly sanded the top of the magnet before inserting them into the 3d print and the hot filament sticks to them fine. I think the tape may have had something to do with your layer separation. You could also leave the magnets on the heat bed while printing the model so they warm up before you insert them, which would also help with the filament adhering to them. Check your magnet specification and see how well they handle heat, some magnets loose strength when they get too warm.
I wasn't thinking about the magnets being cold, but I can see that is likely an issue here especially as big as they are. I expect the edge not bonding on the rim also has to do with the already printed later has cooled, and I find TPU doesn't like cooling, it can cause it to not bond to the prior layer. Cura had a post processing script where it would "reprint" last layer on a pause, or maybe it was a filament change with reprint last layer, that may put additional pressure on the original layer making more secure bond. I don't know if other slicers have a similar option, and I have not used that in a few years myself.
Another guess on a method to potentially fix the layer separation issue after inserting the magnets-- slow the printer down for that first layer after the insertion. Moving the print head slower should allow a little more heat transfer from the nozzle into the previous layer to heat it up a bit more and provide better adhesion.
"Pause at layer" actually pauses at the START of the specified layer, so you're actually doing it 1 layer too early, you insert it on the layer things get sealed in as it's pausing before the sealing happens. Also be careful if you have a magnetic steel nozzle, it can sometimes dislodge a magnet, that can end pretty catastrophically.
Yeah I also made that mistake when I used the pause functionality for the first time. It's not really intuitive when used first and slicer software doesn't really help make it intuitive.
@@rand0mtv660 They just made the name too ambiguous instead of descriptive, should have been "Pause at Start of Layer" and they even could have made a complimentary "Pause at End of Layer" command for completeness. But no, years later and smart folks are still going to run into the issue.
I own a 3D printing company and use this exact camera for my RUclips channel. I cant believe I never thought to use my 3D printing resources to make my filming life easier.....until now 👍🏻
Parameters are cool! For a better friction fit you could taper the interior of the cylinder so it’s slightly narrower at the bottom. Add a wedge at the top of the cylinder as thumb latch.
I always lear something when you do videos like this. Designing and talking about how you are doing it. These are golden. Please never stop producing videos like this.
I always loved the ghia content. I know restoring a car especially doing it the right way can take a long time. just don't forget about the old girl. I've bought many cool old cars off people that sold it to me simply because they've pushed the project off slowly over time and were sick of it by then. Especially, all the stuff you've learned already and the other stuff you'll get to learn through the projects completion, like making an old forgotten engine that's not been produced for decades actually run and be reliable. It's the best feeling in the world to take an awesome old car that hasn't been on the road for a couple decades and breathe new life into it and eventually see the day where you can just hop in and drive it. Great vid as always Bob, cheers!
Really happy to see you working on the Karmann Ghia! Please do more episodes, especially showing you _IN_ the process of learning and making mistakes. That's way more accessible than polished after the fact summary content.
Actually blown away by your audio quality! What ever you did, keep doing it! I didn't see your opening video but i am thinking it's part of the transition or evolution of the channel. Love it either way.
YESSIR!!!!! My man likes to MAKE STUFF! Really really enjoy seeing someone BUILD when they could've BUYed. Bought. ;) (Hope you're staying healthy and happy, my friend.)
I have this exact camera - it literally comes with two different attachments with the threaded 1/4-20 piece for a tripod mount. One is literally just a mount specifically for tripods, and one is the battery extender - so both can screw into your tripod, and you then can pop the camera in and out by just snapping those two little plastic pieces. I get the additional things you were trying to do with magnets, etc - but the main "mounting to a tripod and quickly disconnecting" is baked right into the design of the camera and accessories that it comes with. You even even screw it into the small tripod at the beginning, to which you COULD just pop it off the battery extender in 1 second, leave the battery screwed in, and keep working, then just pop it back on.
Make the cup a square the same size as the battery and deep enough that the tripod bottoms out a centimeter (or 2) below any buttons needed. The tripod doesn't need to a custom fit cup, it is just holding the whole assembly off the bottom. Then when you create the groove for your magnet floppy thingy it is up behind the battery. If you need it higher still, make the square cup deeper and leave a notch/opening for the front controls so you can access those while the back and sides are supported. Think of it like a pistol holster. The holster needs to be the right shape for the barrel and the top back is open for the grip to pass through.
I made a similar attachment for mine but it attaches to a magnetic noga arm. It works pretty well but does tend to pick up vibration from machinery. I made a clamp that is lined with leather so you can push it in and it stays put anywhere along the handle. That keeps the base free for my standard tripod mount.
I don't normally comment but based on the feedback thus far, I will comment. BRILLIANT. This is exactly what youtube makers are about. At first I really didn't think I could use this idea but the shots at the end of the video blew my mind. Incredible!! Well thought out video, all videography skills (sound, lighting, camera angles, script, etc) on point, lastly the build itself was purely original. You came up with a problem that effects many folks and made a brilliant product. Your design doesn't even scratch the surface it sits on which broadens the applications. The design also could be tweaked for a varity of different applications. Welding for example: A holder could be made to attach the camera to a welding tank as well as a camera shield to guard flying metal shards and sparks. Possabilities are endless!! Brilliantly done and thank you and your team for all the hard work. I am inspired from this build to take action and be creative. Well done!!
Hi Bob, TPU and PETG have almost the same printing temp so you can try to change fillamentin the layer after finishing the part that you want to be flexible so the dove tail part is rigid and the wing mantain the flexibility.
For my own tripod adapter, I just used 1/4-20 nuts from the big box store. If you design the hex hole just slightly undersized, you can press the nut into place with a vice or vice clamps. You can use a drop of CA glue before inserting the nut to add an extra level of security. Chances are you’ve already got some of these in your garage anyway.
If the inserts are open all the way through you could make a simple set screw.. You could even drop a thin piece of rubber between the set screw and camera to protect it and give it grip
I really like the fact that you designed something on the fly. I have a few suggestions if you'd like... 1, I would add a small flair on the top of the tube part, this would make it easier to insert the camera. 2, I would also add a flair on the dovetail piece making it easier to attach and detach it from the flexible magnet holder. 3, you can make the tube longer so it holds the battery as well, then make your sliding dovetail attach much higher, that should lower the center of gravity and help overall. I hope this make sense and helps. Love the videos!
Long time photographer, hands down the heavier equipment is, the more stability there is. Incorporate the dovetail into the magnetic base again; make it only flexible where it needs to be, at the joints. Something like a 3/4in wide strip between where the magnets and the current central dove tail mount, while making the rest from the rigid plastic. A double dove tail, wedge; only adding flexibility/instability where needed.
Great project! I did something kind of similar with my larger camera where I 3D printed a holder for both the camera and its power plug so that everything can be mounted on a tripod. Now I don't have a bunch of cords dangling in the way every time I go to move the tripod. My recommendation would be to make the cup and magnetic part all one piece if you can. That way it can be stronger and more rigid. Then have just the cup for the tripod mount. It's not as efficient as having the multipurpose setup but each separately can be optimized for its own function.
I dunno where I fit in the spectrum of photo people or DIY-ers but a magnetic attachment exists as a product and 3D design available to download and print for months by now. I personally use the magnetic mount from Sunnylife
Very cool video as someone who is just looking into getting my first 3D printer and know nothing about them but there’s so many things I want to buy to print and hopefully someday learn how to make my own stuff. Thanks for sharing
Nice work Bob! I'm Proud of you and you have given me the confidence to print TPU I have been hesitant to try buy I have a roll on the way now thanks to you! Keep up the excellent work, Have a great day
I would personally split it up in 2 parts. So you can put the entire rig fast in the cup on the tripod, but when you take the camera out of the cup the magnets are still on the camera rig and you can clip it to a metal surface. Taking the camera in out of the cup is even faster and easier then the quick release on the tripod. You can still leave that to swap it out for an other camera quickly of course
Great idea! Here are two suggestions: For the magnet holder, consider creating a plug matching the magnet's diameter, allowing it to friction fit into the flexible material. This would enable easy replacement of the magnets if needed. To address vibration issues, extend the spine above the cylinder's rim and add a second magnetic pad of the same or smaller size. This could stabilize shots in moving vehicles or heavy vibration scenarios.
Extend the dovetail on the cylinder to form a spine. Add notches to the spine so the flexible mount can clip into place further up the spine when necessary?
I've embedded a lot of magnets and my 1 suggestion would be to only have like 2-3 layers between the magnet and where it will stick to metal, every layer there reduces the strength of the magnets and 2 layers is still strong enough (especially with TPU) and yet still allows the magnets to do their job fully. Also, if you find the magnets sliding on metal, I found this amazing thin adhesive backed silicone sheet on Amazon that has a very high friction, cut a piece and place it over where the magnets are and it will not slide down the metal surface and it's like 1mm thick so not too thick.
could you make the sliding part more trapezoidal with a long magnet to help with wobble? Also maybe adding a small nub, like a screw with a slot on the leg of the original handle/stand connector an then a slot in the barrel you insert to? Good luck with your projects either way :)
You could model the tripod foot directly into the holder, it would skip a step and you would have an extra shoe for another piece of equipment. That's one reason I have switched to Arca Swiss plates for my camera equipment. Easy to get extra shoes. (You can even print the bases.)
Those layer gaps where the print paused are from the material having too much time to cool off before starting the next layer. If you want to avoid them try to make the pause as short as possible. Or even stick the magnets in while the print is ongoing
What if you try to change the connection method between the flexible and non-flexible parts of the holder(something like a latch or a threaded connection?), add grooves inside the glass for the tripod segments and replace two large magnets with more neodymium magnets throughout the entire area of the site (in case the metal surface does not have the smoothest surface (I apologize for the tautology)) Upd:Regarding the lever, you can try to increase the length of the holder cup so that it ends at the level of the additional battery (or leave just the segment so that the battery does not overheat And transfer the fastening of the magnetic segment and the glass to this very segment
Being a supporter of ILTMS past few years and not having seen Bob's videos for some time, it does feel weird for the video to actually not start with "Hi I’m Bob and I like to make stuff". And the hairstyle change, its really different but still the same Bob Clagett, and the same ingenious ideas and craftsmanship. :)
A possible approach for moving the mount point higher: extend just the dovetail piece on the cup up as far as you can go without impeding the operation of the camera, but design a small hole into the dovetail that's just big enough to accept a stiff wire (something like a coathanger wire would be overkill, but you want something thick enough to be fairly rigid) That'd just add a bit of strength and rigidity to this small-and-fragile structure you'd be adding to the cup.
With that same magnet mount/slide system you came up with i would make a clamp solution to slide on as well so you can mount it to any wood 2x4 type surface...
Love the idea. I did use 3D printing to make a tiny toolbox for my carbon fiber calipers, as well as the microSD cards, adapters, and extension cable for making, and then taking sliced Gcode to my Ender3's. But I need to check out this camera as well since it might be the perfect decide to record the steam trains when I go railfanning!
I make my video on my phone and I took an old iPhone outer case and some epoxy and I glued it to the back of the case. I use fence plates from Home Depot and I screw then all over my shop. So I can attach my phone all over the place. Magnets are awesome!
With the cylinder part, have you tried making it with ridges/flutes on the inside rather than smooth walled? Maybe that would offer a good amount of friction to hold the camera without needing precise tolerances.
Maybe you can use TPU for the connection between two rigid parts, like print the magnet holder with PETG or PLA and join that part to the main cylinder via TPU flexible jointer.
I was going to comment about the center of mass is too high, but you said it yourself in the end of video. you can have a clip like bracket to hold magnet, and use screw to tighten. so it won't get lose overtime. also I would have triangle hole on the bottom so the camera won't rotate at all.
Great video bringing multiple themes together! I’m envious of the Ghia - I hope time with her is refreshing regardless of the progress or work being done.
I would suggest to lower the center of mass by removing the tripod and use an adapter for the extra battery. By that it should stay more stable in the printed part.
11:47 maybe some kind of shell/case thing that stays on the top part all the time and has the same dovetail on the back to slide onto the magnet flap directly? alternatively since magnets are already the jam here, you could take inspiration from how magsafe works on iphones and have a pattern of magnets that lock together replacing the dovetail.
Bob, this little project was AWESOME! Loved the short form look into the 3D printing side some more! I would love even more in depth stuff in your regular videos regarding the modeling portion! Even if it’s just a small tip if you’re figuring out something complex that could be helpful to others!
How about a velcro strap attachment so that you could put it around a canoe paddle or a tree branch. Or a flexible strap with magnets and steel inserts fast than Velcro. What about a small bracket with a keyhole slot? You can put a screw in something or use a push pin depending on how heavy it is
This is fantastic. As I am always trying to make new things for filming(which I don't do as much as I used to) I would think about integrating the tripod base into the DJI Osmo holder. Would save on the inserts, and one less step. Just a thought.
I what thought (but maybe it would be harder to use), would be a small puck-shaped 3d-printed piece that goes between the battery and the tripod, connecting both of them. This piece would hold the dovetail for the magnets and could very much have a quick-release to detach the small tripod when needed to be used through a bigger tripod. (or maybe, just get the cylinder as a simple solution for the bigger tripod
a possible iteration of the design for it to fit higher up would be to make the way that it’s held into a clamp that perfectly fits the device snug and then some sort of bearing system that the clamp part is attached to to allow purposeful rotation of it. by clamp i do mean it more as like a wristwatch on an arm rather than a wood clamp holding a piece of wood
Really cool way to figure out alternative mounts. When I was driving around yesterday, I thought of you as I saw a nice yellow Ghia driving infront of me. Cant wait to see you end your Ghia project!
you can use that squarish shape up above, and us that groove under the screen... and the body of the 3d print can have some king of swinging door or hinge clasp to snap the shape in tight.
You can imbed nuts in a print the same way you do magnets, thus eliminating the need for threaded inserts. Also, I've seen good results combining PETG and TPU in one print, they seem to stick to each other well.
I usually add the pause at the first layer covering the hole. As it pauses at the beginning of the layer, I'm sure the nozzle doesn't travel on the magnet.
Maybe a tpu cover for the bottom of the tripod so there is something to compress when inserted into the mount preventing spin unless enough force was applied. Also take wear and tear off the tripod legs so they don't rub against the inside of the mount
What a fantastic design! I use the pocket osmo every day in my day job. That's the best mounting option I've seen for a magnetic connection. Also great to see the ghia getting some love again!
I thought about making a double doveltail but maybe a bigger one is a beeter solution. Using the weight of the battery to stabilize it seems harder problem, because the support will be close to the buttons of the gimble (never seem one upclose) But solving a so specific problem seems enjoyable 😁 good luck!
I'm sure you've already go plans but I was just thinking about a few possible solutions. If you extend the print up and make it locate on the squared portion of the battery that would stop the rotation. Next if you put the male part of the dovetail on the PLA and make the TPU a little thicker to have the female dovetail that would get rid of the thin TPU web and reduce wobbling. Another option would be to make a TPU sleeve for the battery and add a few small magnets in addition to the initial design. Then you would have a magnetic attachment all the time that wouldn't prevent you from using the mini tripod when you want. If you use your initial design plus the sleeve that would significantly increase your magnetic force while giving another point of contact to also mitigate wobbling from the TPU.
Personally I would have gone with the consentric rolling wheel design. You see it a lot with broom and mop racks. You have 2 wheels with a pivot off center, attach them to your magnet plate and make sure that the pivot+ small side of consentric is larger than your target width then you can push your mount into the wheel design at any point in the tripod and you will remove the lever problem.
Thanks Bob! always interesting and inspiring. Loved the Fusion 360 class, starting to put it to use to make very specific solutions to things in my hobbies and life!
Great video, Bob! I love these problem solving ones. So you say there's a stop on the cylinder so it doesn't slip off the magnetic, but should there also be a tab of some sort to keep the magnetic from slipping off the cylinder, once the friction wears out? Just another thing to consider. 👍
So you are looking to make something that already has a mini tripod screwed into it? Then have a thread on that thing that let's you add another tripod adapter to it so that it can be screwed onto a tripod seems likea very redundant idea
It really looks like the gimbal aspect of it all took care of the vibrations you were talking about at the end. But if you're not happy with the footage, maybe taking advantage of said gimbal and making sure any axis that it can shake on can be compensated by the gimbal.
Maybe a long 'neck' that goes up the back past the 'tube' made out of TPU, with more magnets. You'd still be able to quickly slot it into the tube, but then it would 'snap in' to a U shaped part.
Wow, totally didn't consider the original title to be clickbait-y... certainly wasn't the intention. Hopefully this new one will sit better 👍🏼
I'm shocked! Shocked I tell you! Shocked!
Hopefully the next video is about the Ghia 😊
Any chance you got a link for that camera 1:38 ? I'm in the market for 1...
could you make the sliding part more trapezoidal with a long magnet to help with wobble? Also maybe adding a small nub, like a screw with a slot on the leg of the original handle/stand connector an then a slot in the barrel you insert to? Good luck with your projects either way :)
Why dont you make a clip design to attach to the cammera and the clip could spin. Maybe that could help solve the issue
I love how the first 2 1/2 minutes of this video could be summed up with “Hi I’m Bob and I like to make stuff, I’m making this because I like to make stuff, I know I could do other things but the channel is not called I like to buy stuff”
How can I ❤❤❤ this comment times 1000???
"I like to make stuff" indeed!!!
I've 3d printed a lot of refrigerator magnets and never put tape on any of the magnets. I have lightly sanded the top of the magnet before inserting them into the 3d print and the hot filament sticks to them fine. I think the tape may have had something to do with your layer separation. You could also leave the magnets on the heat bed while printing the model so they warm up before you insert them, which would also help with the filament adhering to them. Check your magnet specification and see how well they handle heat, some magnets loose strength when they get too warm.
I wasn't thinking about the magnets being cold, but I can see that is likely an issue here especially as big as they are.
I expect the edge not bonding on the rim also has to do with the already printed later has cooled, and I find TPU doesn't like cooling, it can cause it to not bond to the prior layer. Cura had a post processing script where it would "reprint" last layer on a pause, or maybe it was a filament change with reprint last layer, that may put additional pressure on the original layer making more secure bond. I don't know if other slicers have a similar option, and I have not used that in a few years myself.
Another guess on a method to potentially fix the layer separation issue after inserting the magnets-- slow the printer down for that first layer after the insertion. Moving the print head slower should allow a little more heat transfer from the nozzle into the previous layer to heat it up a bit more and provide better adhesion.
"Pause at layer" actually pauses at the START of the specified layer, so you're actually doing it 1 layer too early, you insert it on the layer things get sealed in as it's pausing before the sealing happens. Also be careful if you have a magnetic steel nozzle, it can sometimes dislodge a magnet, that can end pretty catastrophically.
Hope he will read this comment. Was about to write the same
Jup same here. Probably caused that bad layer adhesion. @iliketomakestuff
Yeah I also made that mistake when I used the pause functionality for the first time. It's not really intuitive when used first and slicer software doesn't really help make it intuitive.
@@rand0mtv660 They just made the name too ambiguous instead of descriptive, should have been "Pause at Start of Layer" and they even could have made a complimentary "Pause at End of Layer" command for completeness. But no, years later and smart folks are still going to run into the issue.
@@Roobotics yeah that would most likely solve most of the issues.
I own a 3D printing company and use this exact camera for my RUclips channel. I cant believe I never thought to use my 3D printing resources to make my filming life easier.....until now 👍🏻
Parameters ARE pretty awesome.
THEY ARE THOUGH
Parameters are cool! For a better friction fit you could taper the interior of the cylinder so it’s slightly narrower at the bottom. Add a wedge at the top of the cylinder as thumb latch.
"I wouldnt trust these magnets on a car that's moving but that's not really what I'm going to use it for"
First shot... moving car. Made me laugh. 😂
:)
Rules are for squares.
Looks like the camera was inside the car on the road 😉
I always lear something when you do videos like this. Designing and talking about how you are doing it. These are golden. Please never stop producing videos like this.
I always loved the ghia content. I know restoring a car especially doing it the right way can take a long time. just don't forget about the old girl. I've bought many cool old cars off people that sold it to me simply because they've pushed the project off slowly over time and were sick of it by then. Especially, all the stuff you've learned already and the other stuff you'll get to learn through the projects completion, like making an old forgotten engine that's not been produced for decades actually run and be reliable. It's the best feeling in the world to take an awesome old car that hasn't been on the road for a couple decades and breathe new life into it and eventually see the day where you can just hop in and drive it. Great vid as always Bob, cheers!
Really happy to see you working on the Karmann Ghia! Please do more episodes, especially showing you _IN_ the process of learning and making mistakes. That's way more accessible than polished after the fact summary content.
Actually blown away by your audio quality! What ever you did, keep doing it! I didn't see your opening video but i am thinking it's part of the transition or evolution of the channel. Love it either way.
YESSIR!!!!! My man likes to MAKE STUFF!
Really really enjoy seeing someone BUILD when they could've BUYed. Bought. ;)
(Hope you're staying healthy and happy, my friend.)
I have this exact camera - it literally comes with two different attachments with the threaded 1/4-20 piece for a tripod mount. One is literally just a mount specifically for tripods, and one is the battery extender - so both can screw into your tripod, and you then can pop the camera in and out by just snapping those two little plastic pieces. I get the additional things you were trying to do with magnets, etc - but the main "mounting to a tripod and quickly disconnecting" is baked right into the design of the camera and accessories that it comes with. You even even screw it into the small tripod at the beginning, to which you COULD just pop it off the battery extender in 1 second, leave the battery screwed in, and keep working, then just pop it back on.
Make the cup a square the same size as the battery and deep enough that the tripod bottoms out a centimeter (or 2) below any buttons needed. The tripod doesn't need to a custom fit cup, it is just holding the whole assembly off the bottom. Then when you create the groove for your magnet floppy thingy it is up behind the battery. If you need it higher still, make the square cup deeper and leave a notch/opening for the front controls so you can access those while the back and sides are supported.
Think of it like a pistol holster. The holster needs to be the right shape for the barrel and the top back is open for the grip to pass through.
This. Having the magnets higher and closer to the centre of gravity should reduce movement
Thank You! I have not yet tried TPU. Gave me some ideas to try.
I made a similar attachment for mine but it attaches to a magnetic noga arm. It works pretty well but does tend to pick up vibration from machinery.
I made a clamp that is lined with leather so you can push it in and it stays put anywhere along the handle. That keeps the base free for my standard tripod mount.
Hi, you can add a tpu cylinder inside the hard one to make a kind of stabilization unit that observe the vibration and small movement of sending
I don't normally comment but based on the feedback thus far, I will comment.
BRILLIANT. This is exactly what youtube makers are about. At first I really didn't think I could use this idea but the shots at the end of the video blew my mind. Incredible!! Well thought out video, all videography skills (sound, lighting, camera angles, script, etc) on point, lastly the build itself was purely original. You came up with a problem that effects many folks and made a brilliant product. Your design doesn't even scratch the surface it sits on which broadens the applications. The design also could be tweaked for a varity of different applications. Welding for example: A holder could be made to attach the camera to a welding tank as well as a camera shield to guard flying metal shards and sparks. Possabilities are endless!! Brilliantly done and thank you and your team for all the hard work. I am inspired from this build to take action and be creative. Well done!!
Hi Bob, TPU and PETG have almost the same printing temp so you can try to change fillamentin the layer after finishing the part that you want to be flexible so the dove tail part is rigid and the wing mantain the flexibility.
For my own tripod adapter, I just used 1/4-20 nuts from the big box store. If you design the hex hole just slightly undersized, you can press the nut into place with a vice or vice clamps. You can use a drop of CA glue before inserting the nut to add an extra level of security. Chances are you’ve already got some of these in your garage anyway.
If the inserts are open all the way through you could make a simple set screw.. You could even drop a thin piece of rubber between the set screw and camera to protect it and give it grip
I really like the fact that you designed something on the fly. I have a few suggestions if you'd like... 1, I would add a small flair on the top of the tube part, this would make it easier to insert the camera. 2, I would also add a flair on the dovetail piece making it easier to attach and detach it from the flexible magnet holder. 3, you can make the tube longer so it holds the battery as well, then make your sliding dovetail attach much higher, that should lower the center of gravity and help overall.
I hope this make sense and helps. Love the videos!
Long time photographer, hands down the heavier equipment is, the more stability there is.
Incorporate the dovetail into the magnetic base again; make it only flexible where it needs to be, at the joints. Something like a 3/4in wide strip between where the magnets and the current central dove tail mount, while making the rest from the rigid plastic. A double dove tail, wedge; only adding flexibility/instability where needed.
Great project! I did something kind of similar with my larger camera where I 3D printed a holder for both the camera and its power plug so that everything can be mounted on a tripod. Now I don't have a bunch of cords dangling in the way every time I go to move the tripod.
My recommendation would be to make the cup and magnetic part all one piece if you can. That way it can be stronger and more rigid. Then have just the cup for the tripod mount. It's not as efficient as having the multipurpose setup but each separately can be optimized for its own function.
Great job! Magnets are great. Regarding what you said at the end: How about a clip that braces around the square parts of the gimbal?
I dunno where I fit in the spectrum of photo people or DIY-ers but a magnetic attachment exists as a product and 3D design available to download and print for months by now. I personally use the magnetic mount from Sunnylife
Very cool video as someone who is just looking into getting my first 3D printer and know nothing about them but there’s so many things I want to buy to print and hopefully someday learn how to make my own stuff. Thanks for sharing
Nice work Bob! I'm Proud of you and you have given me the confidence to print TPU I have been hesitant to try buy I have a roll on the way now thanks to you! Keep up the excellent work, Have a great day
Reminds me of the FrogPod. But I like the way you thickened the TPU to make it more rigid while not creating another part. Parameters.
I would personally split it up in 2 parts. So you can put the entire rig fast in the cup on the tripod, but when you take the camera out of the cup the magnets are still on the camera rig and you can clip it to a metal surface. Taking the camera in out of the cup is even faster and easier then the quick release on the tripod. You can still leave that to swap it out for an other camera quickly of course
As someone who just got a 3d printer this has me so inspired to try and solve very specific solutions in my life!
Great idea! Here are two suggestions:
For the magnet holder, consider creating a plug matching the magnet's diameter, allowing it to friction fit into the flexible material. This would enable easy replacement of the magnets if needed.
To address vibration issues, extend the spine above the cylinder's rim and add a second magnetic pad of the same or smaller size. This could stabilize shots in moving vehicles or heavy vibration scenarios.
Extend the dovetail on the cylinder to form a spine. Add notches to the spine so the flexible mount can clip into place further up the spine when necessary?
I've embedded a lot of magnets and my 1 suggestion would be to only have like 2-3 layers between the magnet and where it will stick to metal, every layer there reduces the strength of the magnets and 2 layers is still strong enough (especially with TPU) and yet still allows the magnets to do their job fully. Also, if you find the magnets sliding on metal, I found this amazing thin adhesive backed silicone sheet on Amazon that has a very high friction, cut a piece and place it over where the magnets are and it will not slide down the metal surface and it's like 1mm thick so not too thick.
A tripod attachment screw is a standard 1/4 20
Your 3D workshop is sick. I liked the video of you putting that together a lot! Cool to see you working in it.
could you make the sliding part more trapezoidal with a long magnet to help with wobble? Also maybe adding a small nub, like a screw with a slot on the leg of the original handle/stand connector an then a slot in the barrel you insert to? Good luck with your projects either way :)
Great concept! I have a Osmo Pocket 2 and may try something like that myself. Thanks!
You could model the tripod foot directly into the holder, it would skip a step and you would have an extra shoe for another piece of equipment.
That's one reason I have switched to Arca Swiss plates for my camera equipment. Easy to get extra shoes. (You can even print the bases.)
Those layer gaps where the print paused are from the material having too much time to cool off before starting the next layer. If you want to avoid them try to make the pause as short as possible. Or even stick the magnets in while the print is ongoing
What if you try to change the connection method between the flexible and non-flexible parts of the holder(something like a latch or a threaded connection?), add grooves inside the glass for the tripod segments and replace two large magnets with more neodymium magnets throughout the entire area of the site (in case the metal surface does not have the smoothest surface (I apologize for the tautology))
Upd:Regarding the lever, you can try to increase the length of the holder cup so that it ends at the level of the additional battery (or leave just the segment so that the battery does not overheat And transfer the fastening of the magnetic segment and the glass to this very segment
Love me a little iterative design project. Thanks for sharing!
Being a supporter of ILTMS past few years and not having seen Bob's videos for some time, it does feel weird for the video to actually not start with "Hi I’m Bob and I like to make stuff". And the hairstyle change, its really different but still the same Bob Clagett, and the same ingenious ideas and craftsmanship. :)
A possible approach for moving the mount point higher: extend just the dovetail piece on the cup up as far as you can go without impeding the operation of the camera, but design a small hole into the dovetail that's just big enough to accept a stiff wire (something like a coathanger wire would be overkill, but you want something thick enough to be fairly rigid) That'd just add a bit of strength and rigidity to this small-and-fragile structure you'd be adding to the cup.
With that same magnet mount/slide system you came up with i would make a clamp solution to slide on as well so you can mount it to any wood 2x4 type surface...
I love the process. Fixing problems.
I'd make clip on mounts. It's a bit tricky to fine tune out of a 3D printer, but very satisfying when they work
Love the idea. I did use 3D printing to make a tiny toolbox for my carbon fiber calipers, as well as the microSD cards, adapters, and extension cable for making, and then taking sliced Gcode to my Ender3's. But I need to check out this camera as well since it might be the perfect decide to record the steam trains when I go railfanning!
sliding the TPU print into the Cylinder print during print (like the magnets) would be a nice touch.
Really clear, really useful, that is what 3d printing is all about (oh, and I love parameters!!) - loved the video
I make my video on my phone and I took an old iPhone outer case and some epoxy and I glued it to the back of the case. I use fence plates from
Home Depot and I screw then all over my shop. So I can attach my phone all over the place. Magnets are awesome!
Loved the tpu for the flexible mounts with the magnetic inserts
With the cylinder part, have you tried making it with ridges/flutes on the inside rather than smooth walled? Maybe that would offer a good amount of friction to hold the camera without needing precise tolerances.
With the Dovetail joint you should also make a spring clip or a ‘G’ clamp to fit it so you can use it on non-metallic stuff
Maybe you can use TPU for the connection between two rigid parts, like print the magnet holder with PETG or PLA and join that part to the main cylinder via TPU flexible jointer.
it’s really impressive how entertaining you can make a 3d printing video. the design aspect steals the show and was super interesting
I have a pocket 2 and this video was awesome, I’m definitely going to try to recreate for the older model
I was going to comment about the center of mass is too high, but you said it yourself in the end of video.
you can have a clip like bracket to hold magnet, and use screw to tighten. so it won't get lose overtime.
also I would have triangle hole on the bottom so the camera won't rotate at all.
Love this one. It's great to see the iterative process!
Love the thought process and finished piece.
I honestly love the idea of a magnetic mount for a small camera, and this is a super cool proof of concept for that.
cool to see 2 things I've done before Bob. Insert something into a 3d print and melt in threaded inserts.
Great video bringing multiple themes together! I’m envious of the Ghia - I hope time with her is refreshing regardless of the progress or work being done.
I would suggest to lower the center of mass by removing the tripod and use an adapter for the extra battery. By that it should stay more stable in the printed part.
11:47 maybe some kind of shell/case thing that stays on the top part all the time and has the same dovetail on the back to slide onto the magnet flap directly? alternatively since magnets are already the jam here, you could take inspiration from how magsafe works on iphones and have a pattern of magnets that lock together replacing the dovetail.
Bob, this little project was AWESOME! Loved the short form look into the 3D printing side some more! I would love even more in depth stuff in your regular videos regarding the modeling portion! Even if it’s just a small tip if you’re figuring out something complex that could be helpful to others!
How about a velcro strap attachment so that you could put it around a canoe paddle or a tree branch. Or a flexible strap with magnets and steel inserts fast than Velcro. What about a small bracket with a keyhole slot? You can put a screw in something or use a push pin depending on how heavy it is
This is fantastic. As I am always trying to make new things for filming(which I don't do as much as I used to) I would think about integrating the tripod base into the DJI Osmo holder. Would save on the inserts, and one less step. Just a thought.
I what thought (but maybe it would be harder to use), would be a small puck-shaped 3d-printed piece that goes between the battery and the tripod, connecting both of them.
This piece would hold the dovetail for the magnets and could very much have a quick-release to detach the small tripod when needed to be used through a bigger tripod.
(or maybe, just get the cylinder as a simple solution for the bigger tripod
I was truly disapppinted when this ended! It was fun to watch you iterate on this idea!
a possible iteration of the design for it to fit higher up would be to make the way that it’s held into a clamp that perfectly fits the device snug and then some sort of bearing system that the clamp part is attached to to allow purposeful rotation of it. by clamp i do mean it more as like a wristwatch on an arm rather than a wood clamp holding a piece of wood
Really cool way to figure out alternative mounts. When I was driving around yesterday, I thought of you as I saw a nice yellow Ghia driving infront of me. Cant wait to see you end your Ghia project!
you can use that squarish shape up above, and us that groove under the screen... and the body of the 3d print can have some king of swinging door or hinge clasp to snap the shape in tight.
You can imbed nuts in a print the same way you do magnets, thus eliminating the need for threaded inserts. Also, I've seen good results combining PETG and TPU in one print, they seem to stick to each other well.
Good ideas. I think I’ll try that.
Just like magnet pieces, make one with suction cup like a modular attachment so you can also stick it to not magnetic shiney pieces…. Windshield ect
I usually add the pause at the first layer covering the hole.
As it pauses at the beginning of the layer, I'm sure the nozzle doesn't travel on the magnet.
Maybe a tpu cover for the bottom of the tripod so there is something to compress when inserted into the mount preventing spin unless enough force was applied. Also take wear and tear off the tripod legs so they don't rub against the inside of the mount
Making the magnetic part out of tpu was a great idea; slapping it on the gas cylinder was also a great example to show it!
Really awesome vid Bob, i love the progression and your methodology. keep up the good work Bro
I love the Karmann Ghia content, we need more.
What a fantastic design! I use the pocket osmo every day in my day job. That's the best mounting option I've seen for a magnetic connection. Also great to see the ghia getting some love again!
I thought about making a double doveltail but maybe a bigger one is a beeter solution.
Using the weight of the battery to stabilize it seems harder problem, because the support will be close to the buttons of the gimble (never seem one upclose)
But solving a so specific problem seems enjoyable 😁 good luck!
I'm sure you've already go plans but I was just thinking about a few possible solutions.
If you extend the print up and make it locate on the squared portion of the battery that would stop the rotation. Next if you put the male part of the dovetail on the PLA and make the TPU a little thicker to have the female dovetail that would get rid of the thin TPU web and reduce wobbling. Another option would be to make a TPU sleeve for the battery and add a few small magnets in addition to the initial design. Then you would have a magnetic attachment all the time that wouldn't prevent you from using the mini tripod when you want. If you use your initial design plus the sleeve that would significantly increase your magnetic force while giving another point of contact to also mitigate wobbling from the TPU.
For the next revision, maybe make a tpu sleeve with a dovetail for the camera and a more rigid magnetic mount.
Seems like you could print a bigger holder that would fit over the battery, and maybe part of the camera.
Personally I would have gone with the consentric rolling wheel design. You see it a lot with broom and mop racks. You have 2 wheels with a pivot off center, attach them to your magnet plate and make sure that the pivot+ small side of consentric is larger than your target width then you can push your mount into the wheel design at any point in the tripod and you will remove the lever problem.
Thanks Bob! always interesting and inspiring. Loved the Fusion 360 class, starting to put it to use to make very specific solutions to things in my hobbies and life!
I think it works pretty good, I like it. And the clean room is looking awesome as well!
Could you print a rectangle with two semi circles in it so you can use both the camera rectangle and the tripod circle?
Great video, Bob! I love these problem solving ones. So you say there's a stop on the cylinder so it doesn't slip off the magnetic, but should there also be a tab of some sort to keep the magnetic from slipping off the cylinder, once the friction wears out? Just another thing to consider. 👍
As someone who bought an Osmo Pocket 3 for similar use cases I love this and wish I could make one to test as well.
never knew you could pause the print by adding gcode in the slicer, Thanks Bob that was a game changing tip
Oh yes. It’s very useful for changing colors when you have a one head printer.
That was pretty cool.
Nicely done.
This is your best idea yet. Those shots were awesome with your mount and the little bit of camera movement made it seem more real !
It was great watching you work out with Tim
So you are looking to make something that already has a mini tripod screwed into it? Then have a thread on that thing that let's you add another tripod adapter to it so that it can be screwed onto a tripod seems likea very redundant idea
You missed the entire point lmao
Put a wider flat on the cylinder and make multiple dove dails to connect the magnets
It really looks like the gimbal aspect of it all took care of the vibrations you were talking about at the end. But if you're not happy with the footage, maybe taking advantage of said gimbal and making sure any axis that it can shake on can be compensated by the gimbal.
Maybe a long 'neck' that goes up the back past the 'tube' made out of TPU, with more magnets. You'd still be able to quickly slot it into the tube, but then it would 'snap in' to a U shaped part.