I Made THIS To Make It Easier To Shoot Ghia Videos!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
- I can teach you 3D modeling in Fusion just like this with our online course! Check out fusionformakers.com
🛠 Join The Maker Alliance to directly support the channel and access exclusive videos, discounts, and our private Discord community!
themakeralliance.com
The Camera (affiliate link): amzn.to/45KJIBy
Subscribe: bit.ly/ILikeToMakestuffSubscribe
Second Channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Check out my Top Videos!: bit.ly/ILikeToMakeStuffTopVideos
Get digital plans, cool merch, and in depth articles at
iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS & SUPPLIES WE USE (affiliate links):
kit.co/iliketomakestuff/my-wo...
kit.co/iliketomakestuff/shop-...
FOLLOW:
/ iliketomakestuff
/ iliketomakestuf
/ iltms
MUSIC: share.epidemicsound.com/iltms
#ILikeToMakeStuff
About I Like To Make Stuff:
We have lots of projects including woodworking, metalworking, electronics, 3D printing, prop making and more!
These videos are our attempt inspire and empower others to make the stuff that they want to have. Hopefully you'll see something here that will inspire you to make something that you're passionate about!
The Ghia is BACK!
• I Made THIS To Make It...
I Like To Make Stuff
/ iliketomakestuff 
Хобби
Wow, totally didn't consider the original title to be clickbait-y... certainly wasn't the intention. Hopefully this new one will sit better 👍🏼
I'm shocked! Shocked I tell you! Shocked!
Hopefully the next video is about the Ghia 😊
Any chance you got a link for that camera 1:38 ? I'm in the market for 1...
could you make the sliding part more trapezoidal with a long magnet to help with wobble? Also maybe adding a small nub, like a screw with a slot on the leg of the original handle/stand connector an then a slot in the barrel you insert to? Good luck with your projects either way :)
Why dont you make a clip design to attach to the cammera and the clip could spin. Maybe that could help solve the issue
I love how the first 2 1/2 minutes of this video could be summed up with “Hi I’m Bob and I like to make stuff, I’m making this because I like to make stuff, I know I could do other things but the channel is not called I like to buy stuff”
How can I ❤❤❤ this comment times 1000???
"I like to make stuff" indeed!!!
"I wouldnt trust these magnets on a car that's moving but that's not really what I'm going to use it for"
First shot... moving car. Made me laugh. 😂
:)
Rules are for squares.
Looks like the camera was inside the car on the road 😉
I've 3d printed a lot of refrigerator magnets and never put tape on any of the magnets. I have lightly sanded the top of the magnet before inserting them into the 3d print and the hot filament sticks to them fine. I think the tape may have had something to do with your layer separation. You could also leave the magnets on the heat bed while printing the model so they warm up before you insert them, which would also help with the filament adhering to them. Check your magnet specification and see how well they handle heat, some magnets loose strength when they get too warm.
I wasn't thinking about the magnets being cold, but I can see that is likely an issue here especially as big as they are.
I expect the edge not bonding on the rim also has to do with the already printed later has cooled, and I find TPU doesn't like cooling, it can cause it to not bond to the prior layer. Cura had a post processing script where it would "reprint" last layer on a pause, or maybe it was a filament change with reprint last layer, that may put additional pressure on the original layer making more secure bond. I don't know if other slicers have a similar option, and I have not used that in a few years myself.
Parameters ARE pretty awesome.
THEY ARE THOUGH
"Pause at layer" actually pauses at the START of the specified layer, so you're actually doing it 1 layer too early, you insert it on the layer things get sealed in as it's pausing before the sealing happens. Also be careful if you have a magnetic steel nozzle, it can sometimes dislodge a magnet, that can end pretty catastrophically.
Hope he will read this comment. Was about to write the same
Jup same here. Probably caused that bad layer adhesion. @iliketomakestuff
Yeah I also made that mistake when I used the pause functionality for the first time. It's not really intuitive when used first and slicer software doesn't really help make it intuitive.
@@rand0mtv660 They just made the name too ambiguous instead of descriptive, should have been "Pause at Start of Layer" and they even could have made a complimentary "Pause at End of Layer" command for completeness. But no, years later and smart folks are still going to run into the issue.
@@Roobotics yeah that would most likely solve most of the issues.
I own a 3D printing company and use this exact camera for my RUclips channel. I cant believe I never thought to use my 3D printing resources to make my filming life easier.....until now 👍🏻
Parameters are cool! For a better friction fit you could taper the interior of the cylinder so it’s slightly narrower at the bottom. Add a wedge at the top of the cylinder as thumb latch.
Really happy to see you working on the Karmann Ghia! Please do more episodes, especially showing you _IN_ the process of learning and making mistakes. That's way more accessible than polished after the fact summary content.
YESSIR!!!!! My man likes to MAKE STUFF!
Really really enjoy seeing someone BUILD when they could've BUYed. Bought. ;)
(Hope you're staying healthy and happy, my friend.)
I always lear something when you do videos like this. Designing and talking about how you are doing it. These are golden. Please never stop producing videos like this.
I always loved the ghia content. I know restoring a car especially doing it the right way can take a long time. just don't forget about the old girl. I've bought many cool old cars off people that sold it to me simply because they've pushed the project off slowly over time and were sick of it by then. Especially, all the stuff you've learned already and the other stuff you'll get to learn through the projects completion, like making an old forgotten engine that's not been produced for decades actually run and be reliable. It's the best feeling in the world to take an awesome old car that hasn't been on the road for a couple decades and breathe new life into it and eventually see the day where you can just hop in and drive it. Great vid as always Bob, cheers!
Actually blown away by your audio quality! What ever you did, keep doing it! I didn't see your opening video but i am thinking it's part of the transition or evolution of the channel. Love it either way.
Love me a little iterative design project. Thanks for sharing!
Really awesome vid Bob, i love the progression and your methodology. keep up the good work Bro
Your 3D workshop is sick. I liked the video of you putting that together a lot! Cool to see you working in it.
Thanks Bob! always interesting and inspiring. Loved the Fusion 360 class, starting to put it to use to make very specific solutions to things in my hobbies and life!
Thank You! I have not yet tried TPU. Gave me some ideas to try.
Bob, this little project was AWESOME! Loved the short form look into the 3D printing side some more! I would love even more in depth stuff in your regular videos regarding the modeling portion! Even if it’s just a small tip if you’re figuring out something complex that could be helpful to others!
Nice work Bob! I'm Proud of you and you have given me the confidence to print TPU I have been hesitant to try buy I have a roll on the way now thanks to you! Keep up the excellent work, Have a great day
Love this one. It's great to see the iterative process!
This is your best idea yet. Those shots were awesome with your mount and the little bit of camera movement made it seem more real !
it’s really impressive how entertaining you can make a 3d printing video. the design aspect steals the show and was super interesting
Love the thought process and finished piece.
For my own tripod adapter, I just used 1/4-20 nuts from the big box store. If you design the hex hole just slightly undersized, you can press the nut into place with a vice or vice clamps. You can use a drop of CA glue before inserting the nut to add an extra level of security. Chances are you’ve already got some of these in your garage anyway.
I love the Ghia project videos!
As someone who just got a 3d printer this has me so inspired to try and solve very specific solutions in my life!
I honestly love the idea of a magnetic mount for a small camera, and this is a super cool proof of concept for that.
Cool video love seeing you make things like this. Practical and interesting
Very cool video as someone who is just looking into getting my first 3D printer and know nothing about them but there’s so many things I want to buy to print and hopefully someday learn how to make my own stuff. Thanks for sharing
I think it works pretty good, I like it. And the clean room is looking awesome as well!
Brilliant work, Bob! Really well done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
What a fantastic design! I use the pocket osmo every day in my day job. That's the best mounting option I've seen for a magnetic connection. Also great to see the ghia getting some love again!
I have a pocket 2 and this video was awesome, I’m definitely going to try to recreate for the older model
Great design process. Love these shorter videos. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Really clear, really useful, that is what 3d printing is all about (oh, and I love parameters!!) - loved the video
Really cool way to figure out alternative mounts. When I was driving around yesterday, I thought of you as I saw a nice yellow Ghia driving infront of me. Cant wait to see you end your Ghia project!
That was pretty cool.
Nicely done.
Very awesome idea!! I want to take your online class so bad. Mayne this winter!!
I love the process. Fixing problems.
I love the Karmann Ghia content, we need more.
Really cool little gadget, love watching your design process! Also, the shots turned GREAT.
Make the cup a square the same size as the battery and deep enough that the tripod bottoms out a centimeter (or 2) below any buttons needed. The tripod doesn't need to a custom fit cup, it is just holding the whole assembly off the bottom. Then when you create the groove for your magnet floppy thingy it is up behind the battery. If you need it higher still, make the square cup deeper and leave a notch/opening for the front controls so you can access those while the back and sides are supported.
Think of it like a pistol holster. The holster needs to be the right shape for the barrel and the top back is open for the grip to pass through.
This. Having the magnets higher and closer to the centre of gravity should reduce movement
sliding the TPU print into the Cylinder print during print (like the magnets) would be a nice touch.
I don't normally comment but based on the feedback thus far, I will comment.
BRILLIANT. This is exactly what youtube makers are about. At first I really didn't think I could use this idea but the shots at the end of the video blew my mind. Incredible!! Well thought out video, all videography skills (sound, lighting, camera angles, script, etc) on point, lastly the build itself was purely original. You came up with a problem that effects many folks and made a brilliant product. Your design doesn't even scratch the surface it sits on which broadens the applications. The design also could be tweaked for a varity of different applications. Welding for example: A holder could be made to attach the camera to a welding tank as well as a camera shield to guard flying metal shards and sparks. Possabilities are endless!! Brilliantly done and thank you and your team for all the hard work. I am inspired from this build to take action and be creative. Well done!!
Great project! I did something kind of similar with my larger camera where I 3D printed a holder for both the camera and its power plug so that everything can be mounted on a tripod. Now I don't have a bunch of cords dangling in the way every time I go to move the tripod.
My recommendation would be to make the cup and magnetic part all one piece if you can. That way it can be stronger and more rigid. Then have just the cup for the tripod mount. It's not as efficient as having the multipurpose setup but each separately can be optimized for its own function.
Love the idea. I did use 3D printing to make a tiny toolbox for my carbon fiber calipers, as well as the microSD cards, adapters, and extension cable for making, and then taking sliced Gcode to my Ender3's. But I need to check out this camera as well since it might be the perfect decide to record the steam trains when I go railfanning!
Really neat little gadget, and also learning about new printable material. Love seeing the process on these sorts of builds, and the footage was pretty solid! Also was momentarily distracted by the Autobot under your monitor. xD
Loved the tpu for the flexible mounts with the magnetic inserts
Being a supporter of ILTMS past few years and not having seen Bob's videos for some time, it does feel weird for the video to actually not start with "Hi I’m Bob and I like to make stuff". And the hairstyle change, its really different but still the same Bob Clagett, and the same ingenious ideas and craftsmanship. :)
I'd make clip on mounts. It's a bit tricky to fine tune out of a 3D printer, but very satisfying when they work
Excellent idea Bob
Hi, you can add a tpu cylinder inside the hard one to make a kind of stabilization unit that observe the vibration and small movement of sending
could you make the sliding part more trapezoidal with a long magnet to help with wobble? Also maybe adding a small nub, like a screw with a slot on the leg of the original handle/stand connector an then a slot in the barrel you insert to? Good luck with your projects either way :)
I really like the fact that you designed something on the fly. I have a few suggestions if you'd like... 1, I would add a small flair on the top of the tube part, this would make it easier to insert the camera. 2, I would also add a flair on the dovetail piece making it easier to attach and detach it from the flexible magnet holder. 3, you can make the tube longer so it holds the battery as well, then make your sliding dovetail attach much higher, that should lower the center of gravity and help overall.
I hope this make sense and helps. Love the videos!
I dunno where I fit in the spectrum of photo people or DIY-ers but a magnetic attachment exists as a product and 3D design available to download and print for months by now. I personally use the magnetic mount from Sunnylife
This is super cool!
I made a similar attachment for mine but it attaches to a magnetic noga arm. It works pretty well but does tend to pick up vibration from machinery.
I made a clamp that is lined with leather so you can push it in and it stays put anywhere along the handle. That keeps the base free for my standard tripod mount.
I was truly disapppinted when this ended! It was fun to watch you iterate on this idea!
Great video bringing multiple themes together! I’m envious of the Ghia - I hope time with her is refreshing regardless of the progress or work being done.
Nice video Bob! Thanks for always sharing with us!💖👍😎JP
It was great watching you work out with Tim
I have this exact camera - it literally comes with two different attachments with the threaded 1/4-20 piece for a tripod mount. One is literally just a mount specifically for tripods, and one is the battery extender - so both can screw into your tripod, and you then can pop the camera in and out by just snapping those two little plastic pieces. I get the additional things you were trying to do with magnets, etc - but the main "mounting to a tripod and quickly disconnecting" is baked right into the design of the camera and accessories that it comes with. You even even screw it into the small tripod at the beginning, to which you COULD just pop it off the battery extender in 1 second, leave the battery screwed in, and keep working, then just pop it back on.
Photography people on one side.
DIY people on the other.
Bob in the middle.
Brilliant subtlety.
A tripod attachment screw is a standard 1/4 20
Happy Birthday Bob!
❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉
Hi Bob, TPU and PETG have almost the same printing temp so you can try to change fillamentin the layer after finishing the part that you want to be flexible so the dove tail part is rigid and the wing mantain the flexibility.
With that same magnet mount/slide system you came up with i would make a clamp solution to slide on as well so you can mount it to any wood 2x4 type surface...
The new shots were interesting! Miss the team, but glad to see you having fun again.
Great job! Magnets are great. Regarding what you said at the end: How about a clip that braces around the square parts of the gimbal?
Reminds me of the FrogPod. But I like the way you thickened the TPU to make it more rigid while not creating another part. Parameters.
It's also way cooler and so much more fun to make it yourself. That was awesome!
If the inserts are open all the way through you could make a simple set screw.. You could even drop a thin piece of rubber between the set screw and camera to protect it and give it grip
You are the man!!
LOVE the dovetail idea for joining prints. I'll definitely be stealing that!
Do it!! It worked WAY better than expected 👍🏼
That was such a cool design and i wanna have one for my phone 😂😂 also, the Ghia is looking awesome!!! I hope we get a car update soon!
I like your new glasses, Bob!!!
This is fantastic. As I am always trying to make new things for filming(which I don't do as much as I used to) I would think about integrating the tripod base into the DJI Osmo holder. Would save on the inserts, and one less step. Just a thought.
I know you said this wasn't sponsored, but now I definitely want one of those cameras. Especially now that I know there's a convenient 3D printable solution for easy mounting to tripods and magnetic surfaces.
With the Dovetail joint you should also make a spring clip or a ‘G’ clamp to fit it so you can use it on non-metallic stuff
Making the magnetic part out of tpu was a great idea; slapping it on the gas cylinder was also a great example to show it!
Great video, Bob! I love these problem solving ones. So you say there's a stop on the cylinder so it doesn't slip off the magnetic, but should there also be a tab of some sort to keep the magnetic from slipping off the cylinder, once the friction wears out? Just another thing to consider. 👍
Genius idea!
Cool idea!
I like this idea! I've been looking at the pocket 3 for my videos! Are you going to post any of these designs?
you can use that squarish shape up above, and us that groove under the screen... and the body of the 3d print can have some king of swinging door or hinge clasp to snap the shape in tight.
cool beans
C.O.O.L. B.E.A.N.S.
For the next revision, maybe make a tpu sleeve with a dovetail for the camera and a more rigid magnetic mount.
I would personally split it up in 2 parts. So you can put the entire rig fast in the cup on the tripod, but when you take the camera out of the cup the magnets are still on the camera rig and you can clip it to a metal surface. Taking the camera in out of the cup is even faster and easier then the quick release on the tripod. You can still leave that to swap it out for an other camera quickly of course
2:10 the best (maybe unintentional) advice!!!🎉
Wouldnt mind seeing more detail of the design in fusion(dovetail)… like the details given about prusa slicer pausing(that was useful to see how todo that).
cool to see 2 things I've done before Bob. Insert something into a 3d print and melt in threaded inserts.
never knew you could pause the print by adding gcode in the slicer, Thanks Bob that was a game changing tip
Oh yes. It’s very useful for changing colors when you have a one head printer.
You could model the tripod foot directly into the holder, it would skip a step and you would have an extra shoe for another piece of equipment.
That's one reason I have switched to Arca Swiss plates for my camera equipment. Easy to get extra shoes. (You can even print the bases.)
I thought about making a double doveltail but maybe a bigger one is a beeter solution.
Using the weight of the battery to stabilize it seems harder problem, because the support will be close to the buttons of the gimble (never seem one upclose)
But solving a so specific problem seems enjoyable 😁 good luck!
Extend the dovetail on the cylinder to form a spine. Add notches to the spine so the flexible mount can clip into place further up the spine when necessary?
Maybe you can use TPU for the connection between two rigid parts, like print the magnet holder with PETG or PLA and join that part to the main cylinder via TPU flexible jointer.
This was so brilliant that I immediately thought about how to make it ... and the remembered I have no use for it 😅
As someone who bought an Osmo Pocket 3 for similar use cases I love this and wish I could make one to test as well.
With the cylinder part, have you tried making it with ridges/flutes on the inside rather than smooth walled? Maybe that would offer a good amount of friction to hold the camera without needing precise tolerances.