I really like the shift to problem-solving-type videos. Watching your thought process through the project highlights the “what” and “why”, and is more than just the “how”. Thanks, Bob!
@@DS321oI have a magnet that are about the size of a nickel that I have on my 20v Milwaukee drill that I use to stick it to my bench, it won't come off without force. It will absolutely hold a pole and a camera like that with zero issues.
That's a good suggestion but it's very wasteful when it comes to material. Bobs solution, as usual, not very time efficient 🤣 but, saved loads of waste.
@@simonolphin, A couple dozen 1" x 1" steel plates screwed into the ceiling and a 3D printed adapter/base with an embedded magnet sounds pretty efficient and effective to me.
Been watching you for years now and as much as i really love your project videos, I REALLY like these "got a problem, chill with me while i figure a solution" style you've been doing more. I hope you keep sprinkling these in as you encounter them, its really great to see someone else's problem solving mind at work. Thank you Bob
You seem to be in a season of efficiency. Finding things that annoy you just a little bit, or could be just a little better and finding solutions for it. It's so cool to see these little projects that can help so many people in so many ways. It's a big change from major projects that garage woodworkers will spend weeks on, and I love it.
I'm 2:30 in, and I already like this. I love problem-solving videos like this. Even if the problem is not necessarily that big of a problem. I just like seeing the creativity and ingenuity involved in reaching a solution.
Lol @ 1:10, "I'm not gonna do that." Good for you! I love solving little problems by creative thinking, not by spending money, even if the problem's already been solved. The joy is in the journey. I guess your channel name sums it up!
I love watching the problem-solving process. Instead of watching you come up with a solution that may not apply to me, my brain is engaged, thinking of possibilities and ways I can solve similar problems.
Picture the broom handle holders that feature a captive rolling piece on a ramp. The broom handle is inserted from the bottom, pushing the rolling stop up. when the space is big enough, the broom handle slides past the roller. Then as you let go of the broom handle, the combination of the rolling piece and the ramp, wedges the handle in place. If your "clamp" was two of these facing each other and the largest space between the rollers was just wider than the thickness of the joist closest to the clamp and narrowed as you moved towards the end, you could twist the entire contraption just enough to get the rollers to catch on either side and wedge it in place. Releasing would just be lifting it up and letting gravity pull the rollers down, releasing the clamp. No need for any hardware other than the 1/4x20 needed to mount your camera adapter.
@@ToddRafferty me too! There was a compliant mechanism video from… someone (I forget who)… where they talked about how to design that part and 3D print it out of TPU.
Agree with a lot of what others have said about the recent videos regarding problem-solving skills and just making super specific use-case items. As a recent 3D printer owner, I'm constantly looking at my shop and home differently with an eye of how to solve specific problems. Way to differentiate the channel and really stand out, Bob and team!
I’ve really been enjoying these types of videos you’ve been making lately. It gets my brain working to try to find creative solutions to issues. My art studio is basically a 60 square foot clean room off of my workshop. Filming in there is a chore.
You forgot about another force... Squeeze. You could have a handle with a cable connected to it like a brake lever to transfer the force to the clamp. ❤
Only issue there, is that he wants to use the telescoping nature of the camera pole. If you size the cable to be long enough for full extension, when shortened the cable may then hang down into shot. Obviously that can then be managed as well with an elastic that always pulls cable slack up, but it does mean making the think jamnkier, more complicated an ugglier.
I've been loving all these "let me take you along my thought process" videos you've been doing lately. It makes me feel better about all my failed attempts before getting something working knowing professionals still go through the same struggle. Side question, what do you do with all your scrapped 3d printed parts?
He is reinventing the wheel. Your log skidding tong example is also represented in ironwork to lift steel. They're called Plate Lifting Clamps -- essentially a gripper that translates pulling effort into clamping force. Tongs are great, too.
@@samueldeter9735 You'd probably want grippers suitable for the weights and materials being grabbed onto. I'd probably use grippers with some bite. I mean if you're grabbing onto unfinished, exposed ceiling rafters, it doesn't matter if the grippers leave tiny marks behind.
Of note when you're using that 3d camera for future shots; because the image is stitched together from multiple cameras, plus the housing and whatever, the software in the camera does some trickery to blend the shots together - particularly when you pan the shot up so you don't see the pole, or directly opposite from that looking "down" (in the orientation you're using it, anyway). You can see the distortion particularly well with the cut mat you have under there. So it might be useful to have the camera rotated if you want to capture a horizontal surface below the camera. Or reuse that solution with a slightly different camera mount to get top-down shots of small parts if that's what you want. Really cool build!
3:22 my first idea is something like a crutch holder, modified to be able to lock from afar, type a string or something. These holders often are made with rubber that really grabs hold of things too.
I had somewhat of the same situation but I needed to move a spotlight around. I just stapled strips of velcro to the ceiling and more velcro on a bracket for the light. It’s been working for about 4 years without an issue. I do like how your clamp looks way better than strips of velcro on my ceiling.
Thank you so much for using your videos to show off prototyping and failure. Too many people don't make the stuff they want because theyre too afraid that it won't be perfect on the first try. Your content shows that it doesnt have to be. And it shows that theres value in making mistakes and drafting things.
The two solutions that immediately came to mind for me were a large magnet and a push latch mechanism like what you might use for a self locking cabinet. I think your prototype 1 is basically that latter solution. Cool to see it made from scratch! Great if you need a custom size.
Love seeing the process! Go ahead and search lifting clamps, they use gravity instead of tension and I think it could also be a great fit if you wanna do something similar in the future
Very nice - one other potential application for this kind of thing: put a light on it, and you can have a light you can position to fix any shadows you're finding get in the way of your work. Obviously, you've got a pretty decent lighting setup already, but for some shops this would be great, and even for yours you might at some point find yourself with a super niche setup where you have to be working in such a way that you throw a shadow over your workspace. For less established workshops this would also be a really good way to figure out where you need extra lights - use it as you get started, and then invest in permanent light fixtures over time.
Love this style of video as well. Different design with less moving parts: 2 prongs to straddle the joist rigid in place. rotating cam on each prong with light spring to pull to the inside. pull string attached to the other end of cam to one string to end of handle. pushes onto the joist easily, the more weight pulls down the tighter it gets. push up slightly and pull string it releases both cams and slides easily off joist. less printing, less moving parts. the larger the cams and wider the forked prongs the larger the object or joist it will hold onto. make it out of metal and it will hold hundreds of pounds.
Bob, you've really been singing my song these last two videos. I love this idea. I think there are so many folks that are inspired to make little videos - maybe they upload them, maybe they don't - but the bare joists / studs in many of our garages really really lend themselves to something like this. Kudos.
9:04 "I'm Bob and I like to make stuff!" Including spaghetti with my 3d printer! Thank you for leaving that clip in. It is always reassuring to see people you follow for ideas and inspiration also have things like this happen!
I was thinking more of a flexible TPU featherboard clamp which releases when you push it up onto the joist further. Much more complicated, especially when factoring in the release mechanism and printing of the featherboard.
Weird question Bob, I noticed you set your coffee cup directly on your cutting mat. Have you ever had problems with warping because of that? I have a smaller version of that same mat on my desk and the warping drives me nuts!
You can do the same thing with zero moving parts by exploiting some leverage. I have some "self gripping hangers" I got from Amazon that demonstrate this principle wonderfully. They can be moved around with ease, but as soon as you put weight on them they lock in place and will not let go. The more weight you put on them the tighter they grip. You can search for the product above, but I will try and put a link in a reply comment to this one (it will probably get flagged as spam). I think if you built a hook with the camera pole offset from the hook by a few inches that would give you more than enough leverage to firmly grip the device to a rafter, and there would be zero moving parts to wear or get sloppy. Take a look and see if it works.
Great video, Bob! As a career (non-mechanical) engineer, I love watching your videos and thought process each weekend to solve practical problems. It's one of the highlights of my week, every week. I appreciate your engineering mindset of breaking down the objectives, prototyping, trial and error, etc. I do this as well all the time. I also totally love the over-engineering you often do, because often times you think of things and methods that I never would. In this case, I'd probably just mount some small metal plates all over the ceiling and a strong magnet to the quick release plate or selfie stick. But what's the fun in that? LOL.
Even if the "thing" you is making isn't a problem we all have, seeing the ideation, prototyping, and troubleshooting is extremely interesting to me. Thanks for bringing us along Bob! Although, when I eventually break down and get one of these cameras, I may have the exact same issue.
Very well done Bob, I was wondering if a piece of spring steel like a tool holder could be used to clamp onto the ceiling ? I do enjoy your "problem solving" videos.
Watching the video I just couldn't help but see the similarity between what you made and a bicycle brake. In fact, my first thought for solving your problem would be to use the full brake system with a ratchet and release mechanism on the handle. Squeeze it together and it ratches and holds on to the joist, then squeeze a bit and release a latch or something and it comes off.
I really liked one of the circular sketches a 2:38 A circular, compliant mechanism that grabs on the inside and flexes like a clock spring. It'd be easily scalable and fully printable... maybe. If not, it could use captured compression springs that wear slower than tension springs
Consider printing a TPU band for the "spring". Then you don't have to source the perfect spring. The bands tension could be set by varying the infill percentage and/or by selecting narrower/wider groves along the clamp to anchor the band in. It could pretty much be a rectangular rubber band that stretches over the clamp arms and seats into groves on the outside of each clamp arm.
What if you stuck multiple steel plates on the ceiling every few feet, and just got a magswitch type of connection on the pole. Repositioning might make it smoother
My impression is you might have less issues with the foot geometry of the bulk of the foot was on the inside side of the pivot rather than the outside side, this way it would self correct into place more readily
I would have loved this about 10 years ago: videoing a band in a run-down house with multiple cameras mounted from the joists. It involved a lot of being on a ladder and moving cameras around.
Idea for the system: make a system on your joists similar to how an etch a sketch works (x and y axis). Then attach that with a couple motors and a computer. Then program areas where you routinely mount your camera. Then have buttons that you can press to have the mount move to those predestinated locations. You could also have a manual mode that allows you to move it to locations as required.
Loved the video for sure. Inventing something like this to solve an issue for yourself is what it's all about. I to love problem solving, Gives the brain a little workout.
Did something similar in my workshop for streaming. Used big magnet on bottom of monopod and some iron plates screwed into the joists at particular locations
Only made it 3:17 into the video: Curious if we came up with the same solution.... My first thought is a locking cam mechanism. Joists are uniform(ish) in size so this should work. You have a set of two cams that can grab the 2by but if you push past a certain point they release much like a air hose reel works.
I highly recommend looking into 3d printed springs. It will be easy to test with your printer and can be scaled for many of the applications you've been using. Keep up the great work! I always look forward to seeing your projects!
I’ve been working on a solution and a video about this exact same thing (the mounting a pole with a camera to the ceiling-part) to shot everywhere in my studio/workshop *and* to do topdown shots as well, *and* hold a small light as well. I was lucky enough that the runners in my ceiling holding the ceiling tiles are metal, and not aluminum, so I’ve made a cross/4 legs with *tons* of magnets so it’s stable (enough) and easy on/off :) But in your space you would then have to attach metal plates at certain good spots maybe?
Always love the problem solving, but me I'd just 3d print 6-8 mounts and spread them through out the shop. make it similar to power outlets, then you can move the camera easily from one spot to another.
Nice! I would suggest to give it a bit of a twist when you pull the clamp off the beam so only the side will wear and not the surface that needs to grab.
You could also put a compression spring between the the finger below the fulcrum. This way you have no exposed springs on the side that get in the way. Maybe try to add some sand paper to the finger tips for more grip and less slide - TPU is not very good in providing friction.
I like the idea of using a grabby hand toy as a possible solution, having it stay closed with a strong spring and a pull on the handle to release it. No idea if it would work but a fun possibility for those who don’t have a 3D printer available!
Hey Bob have you thought about making a pocket hole jig type clamp but with longer arms? One with the width set to grab your joists like the material the jig holds to drill the holes into
Nice solution. I assume a magnet on a metal strip attached to the joists was out of the question. Gluing or screwing washers or other things to joists would likely work as well.
if you want a version that's hardier for a future application needing WAY more grip power, the kind of bistable mechanism used for pens and sd card slots might work. a trigger in the mouth of the claw gets pushed by the joist and makes the claws squeeze way harder, then pushing it further than that makes the bistable mechanism release the pressure again
You should have made a track system to allow the camera mount to slide on. Like a train track you could have turns to allow the camera to slide to parts of the shop.
Interesting. My path would have been to model the camera clip that you put on the bottom of your clamp, and then print lots of them and install them on the ceiling all over your shop in places that are obvious and some in-between. Then you just have to detach the camera pole from one and put it in the next. Also, it would hold all your cameras through the same standardised base. Still fun to see your development process.
nice solution; first thing that came to my mind at the beginning was (very unrealistically): build some kind of monorail network on your ceiling, so you can "hang" the camera-mount on it easily (like a ropeway) and also move it around the shop.
While I was watching the video, I came up with a different design and it will be tricky to describe verbally.. so here goes... since you are clamping to joists that are all a consistent size, I feel like you don't actually need jaws that open or close. instead, if you made the clamping end look like the open end of a wrench, the clamping force will come from the material of the clamp. inside the "jaws", have two tear drop shaped cams where the pointy end is pointing downwards and the inside edge of the tear drop would be flatter than the other side (but this may not be necessary). Have both cams be lightly spring loaded to push the narrow end inwards. make the pivot point of the cams somwhere around the middle of the round half. when you push the clamp up against the joist, the cams will naturally open up, when weight is put back down (when you let go), the cams will be touching the joist due to the springs. since there isn't enough room for the cam to rotate all the way, it will effectively jam up on the joist. Think of the marble/bearing clamping of the rack that holds food orders in a resto kitchen. to open it up again, have two strings or cables attached to the outsides of the cams near the pointy bit and have them leveraged towards the outside of the clamp. and run the cable down the length of the clamp and you can maybe make a pull ring or maybe even a lever that releases the cams. The overall length of the clamp should be longer to place the release cable closer to a working height. or maybe even just 3d print some sort of a bracket that holds the release mechanism and have it snap onto the pole of the 360. A few key points about my idea, the open end of the clamp should be bigger than the joist but only just enough to make it so the cams are able to rotate enough to jam onto the joist. the material of the clamp would need to be a fairly rigid and not flexible at all. the cams would ideally be sandwiched inside the clamp so that the pivot pin would be supported from both sides. maybe 3d print the cams with ridges or short spikes or maybe even dual material like ABS and TPU (for the grippy bit against the joist) to release, pull on the cable while pushing upwards and it should come right off without any fuss. I can try to draw a picture if you dm me an email to send it to.
Hi Bob... I think magnets would be the easiest solution. magnets on selected spots on the beams and another one on the camera and voilá... you get different magnets with various holding strenghts. 👍
Another great problem solving tutorial Bob. Always interesting on the way you get to the solution. Can I also ask, What is the brand camera is it you have please? 👍🏻🇦🇺
Bob, would some type of grip tape (sand paper, tread tape) on the surface that fits against the joist improve how it hangs? or maybe the flexible filament you printed with is enough to do this now?
I think all the final bit needed is some sort of stop so you don't smash the spring each time. Perhaps just a 3d printed piece that you glue in a magnet that sits on top of the bolt.
I was kinda expecting for the solution to be more akin to how tree pruning scissors work with the Blades situated on one end of the Pole and the Grip on the other... In this case though you'd use the Grip to open the normally closed Clamps instead of the other way around.
I really liked this video. I would say this is one of your better ones you made,. What is the make and model of your camera? I’m looking for one for myself. You could remove all the nuts from the part and save weight by having the parts threaded. And use flathead cap screws might save a little weight too.Kind of give it a cleaner look too. Look forward to your next video.
Curious is the plans are available. I’ve only recently purchased a printer, and haven’t moved to multiple pieces either but and bolt connectivity. So was curious the tolerances for holding nuts. Before a buy a bunch of bolts at different lengths
An alternative approach might be to use magnets. It would mean that you would have to denote fixed attachment places; losing the ability to put the attachment absolutely anywhere, but I’m willing to bet that you tend to mount the camera in one or two key locations all the time. Might be interesting to see that solution as an alternate implementation to this project?
Brilliant, Bob! Fantastic work! 😃 I need to create something similar... But different. My shop has normal selling, it's not like yours. It's going to be way more difficult... 😕 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Love your videos I wonder if instead of the thing - use strong magnets and a steel plate in appropriate places would be more simple as some people may not have exposed joists
I also bought insta360 for my shop, but the low light video quality was just terrible, had to sell it. Does it produce any usable footage for you? I love these specific problem solving videos!
If you have specific locations where you always set the camera, screw cup magnets to each location. Then all you need to do it lift the camera in place, or pull to let it loose.
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I really like the shift to problem-solving-type videos. Watching your thought process through the project highlights the “what” and “why”, and is more than just the “how”. Thanks, Bob!
Yep I came here to say the same thing! Very interesting the see the thought process and the evolution!
Yep, totally agree. It's helpful when learning how to solve problems to watch other people solve problems.
SAME I LOVE IT.
metal strips along the joists and then a strong magnet on the camera pole.
that wouldn't work at my house once my mother-in-law visits because the joist would violently shake and potentially drop the camera
Not a bad alternative
@@DS321oI have a magnet that are about the size of a nickel that I have on my 20v Milwaukee drill that I use to stick it to my bench, it won't come off without force. It will absolutely hold a pole and a camera like that with zero issues.
That's a good suggestion but it's very wasteful when it comes to material. Bobs solution, as usual, not very time efficient 🤣 but, saved loads of waste.
@@simonolphin, A couple dozen 1" x 1" steel plates screwed into the ceiling and a 3D printed adapter/base with an embedded magnet sounds pretty efficient and effective to me.
Been watching you for years now and as much as i really love your project videos, I REALLY like these "got a problem, chill with me while i figure a solution" style you've been doing more. I hope you keep sprinkling these in as you encounter them, its really great to see someone else's problem solving mind at work. Thank you Bob
You seem to be in a season of efficiency. Finding things that annoy you just a little bit, or could be just a little better and finding solutions for it. It's so cool to see these little projects that can help so many people in so many ways. It's a big change from major projects that garage woodworkers will spend weeks on, and I love it.
I'm 2:30 in, and I already like this. I love problem-solving videos like this. Even if the problem is not necessarily that big of a problem. I just like seeing the creativity and ingenuity involved in reaching a solution.
Lol @ 1:10, "I'm not gonna do that." Good for you! I love solving little problems by creative thinking, not by spending money, even if the problem's already been solved. The joy is in the journey. I guess your channel name sums it up!
Exactly!
This is “I like to make stuff”
Not “I like to buy stuff”
I love watching the problem-solving process. Instead of watching you come up with a solution that may not apply to me, my brain is engaged, thinking of possibilities and ways I can solve similar problems.
Picture the broom handle holders that feature a captive rolling piece on a ramp. The broom handle is inserted from the bottom, pushing the rolling stop up. when the space is big enough, the broom handle slides past the roller. Then as you let go of the broom handle, the combination of the rolling piece and the ramp, wedges the handle in place. If your "clamp" was two of these facing each other and the largest space between the rollers was just wider than the thickness of the joist closest to the clamp and narrowed as you moved towards the end, you could twist the entire contraption just enough to get the rollers to catch on either side and wedge it in place. Releasing would just be lifting it up and letting gravity pull the rollers down, releasing the clamp.
No need for any hardware other than the 1/4x20 needed to mount your camera adapter.
This was my first immediate thought too. Glad I'm not alone
@@ToddRafferty me too! There was a compliant mechanism video from… someone (I forget who)… where they talked about how to design that part and 3D print it out of TPU.
Exactly the same thing I was thinking, came to the comments just to see if anyone else thought of it
Agree with a lot of what others have said about the recent videos regarding problem-solving skills and just making super specific use-case items. As a recent 3D printer owner, I'm constantly looking at my shop and home differently with an eye of how to solve specific problems. Way to differentiate the channel and really stand out, Bob and team!
I’ve really been enjoying these types of videos you’ve been making lately. It gets my brain working to try to find creative solutions to issues. My art studio is basically a 60 square foot clean room off of my workshop. Filming in there is a chore.
Hi Bob. Love watching how you've grown all these years since you started making content full time. Thank you for your passionate dedication.
You forgot about another force... Squeeze. You could have a handle with a cable connected to it like a brake lever to transfer the force to the clamp. ❤
Only issue there, is that he wants to use the telescoping nature of the camera pole.
If you size the cable to be long enough for full extension, when shortened the cable may then hang down into shot.
Obviously that can then be managed as well with an elastic that always pulls cable slack up, but it does mean making the think jamnkier, more complicated an ugglier.
I've been loving all these "let me take you along my thought process" videos you've been doing lately. It makes me feel better about all my failed attempts before getting something working knowing professionals still go through the same struggle. Side question, what do you do with all your scrapped 3d printed parts?
I enjoyed seeing your practical attempts before moving into fusion to figure out the problems!
Take a look at how log skidding tongs work, the weight of the "pull" locks them in. A similar mechanism would work very well here.
He is reinventing the wheel. Your log skidding tong example is also represented in ironwork to lift steel. They're called Plate Lifting Clamps -- essentially a gripper that translates pulling effort into clamping force. Tongs are great, too.
@scottcates would minimum weight be a concern for such a light camera? Or accidentally bumping it or something?
@@samueldeter9735 You'd probably want grippers suitable for the weights and materials being grabbed onto. I'd probably use grippers with some bite. I mean if you're grabbing onto unfinished, exposed ceiling rafters, it doesn't matter if the grippers leave tiny marks behind.
2:35 in order to get this stop motion, did you draw the same images twice? Once for the wide clip sped up, and once for the stop motion?
Of note when you're using that 3d camera for future shots; because the image is stitched together from multiple cameras, plus the housing and whatever, the software in the camera does some trickery to blend the shots together - particularly when you pan the shot up so you don't see the pole, or directly opposite from that looking "down" (in the orientation you're using it, anyway). You can see the distortion particularly well with the cut mat you have under there. So it might be useful to have the camera rotated if you want to capture a horizontal surface below the camera. Or reuse that solution with a slightly different camera mount to get top-down shots of small parts if that's what you want. Really cool build!
I am absolutely loving these episodes with the awesome thought process and problem solving man. So fantastic
Dude your last fire videos have been top tier. You inspire me to make more thangs and finally buckle down on starting my own videos
3:22 my first idea is something like a crutch holder, modified to be able to lock from afar, type a string or something. These holders often are made with rubber that really grabs hold of things too.
Sick! I love the solution you came up with. Moving it from joist to joist almost looked effortless!
Two feather boards that go around the joist. Shove it up, pull it down. No moving parts and it could be printed in one go.
I had somewhat of the same situation but I needed to move a spotlight around. I just stapled strips of velcro to the ceiling and more velcro on a bracket for the light. It’s been working for about 4 years without an issue. I do like how your clamp looks way better than strips of velcro on my ceiling.
It reminds me of clamps you place on the wall that grab onto your broom/mop. Same tension operation. Nice work
Thank you so much for using your videos to show off prototyping and failure. Too many people don't make the stuff they want because theyre too afraid that it won't be perfect on the first try. Your content shows that it doesnt have to be. And it shows that theres value in making mistakes and drafting things.
The two solutions that immediately came to mind for me were a large magnet and a push latch mechanism like what you might use for a self locking cabinet. I think your prototype 1 is basically that latter solution. Cool to see it made from scratch! Great if you need a custom size.
Love seeing the process! Go ahead and search lifting clamps, they use gravity instead of tension and I think it could also be a great fit if you wanna do something similar in the future
Very nice - one other potential application for this kind of thing: put a light on it, and you can have a light you can position to fix any shadows you're finding get in the way of your work. Obviously, you've got a pretty decent lighting setup already, but for some shops this would be great, and even for yours you might at some point find yourself with a super niche setup where you have to be working in such a way that you throw a shadow over your workspace.
For less established workshops this would also be a really good way to figure out where you need extra lights - use it as you get started, and then invest in permanent light fixtures over time.
Love this style of video as well. Different design with less moving parts: 2 prongs to straddle the joist rigid in place. rotating cam on each prong with light spring to pull to the inside. pull string attached to the other end of cam to one string to end of handle. pushes onto the joist easily, the more weight pulls down the tighter it gets. push up slightly and pull string it releases both cams and slides easily off joist. less printing, less moving parts. the larger the cams and wider the forked prongs the larger the object or joist it will hold onto. make it out of metal and it will hold hundreds of pounds.
Bob, you've really been singing my song these last two videos. I love this idea. I think there are so many folks that are inspired to make little videos - maybe they upload them, maybe they don't - but the bare joists / studs in many of our garages really really lend themselves to something like this. Kudos.
9:04 "I'm Bob and I like to make stuff!" Including spaghetti with my 3d printer!
Thank you for leaving that clip in. It is always reassuring to see people you follow for ideas and inspiration also have things like this happen!
I have my own measley channel and your channel inspires man. Becoming one of my top favorites.
Nice solution to your problem. Really cool to see you using the 3D printer for rapid prototyping.
I see also some possebilities with a few pieces of iron and some strong magnets
I was thinking more of a flexible TPU featherboard clamp which releases when you push it up onto the joist further. Much more complicated, especially when factoring in the release mechanism and printing of the featherboard.
Weird question Bob, I noticed you set your coffee cup directly on your cutting mat. Have you ever had problems with warping because of that? I have a smaller version of that same mat on my desk and the warping drives me nuts!
You can do the same thing with zero moving parts by exploiting some leverage. I have some "self gripping hangers" I got from Amazon that demonstrate this principle wonderfully. They can be moved around with ease, but as soon as you put weight on them they lock in place and will not let go. The more weight you put on them the tighter they grip. You can search for the product above, but I will try and put a link in a reply comment to this one (it will probably get flagged as spam).
I think if you built a hook with the camera pole offset from the hook by a few inches that would give you more than enough leverage to firmly grip the device to a rafter, and there would be zero moving parts to wear or get sloppy. Take a look and see if it works.
Great video, Bob! As a career (non-mechanical) engineer, I love watching your videos and thought process each weekend to solve practical problems. It's one of the highlights of my week, every week. I appreciate your engineering mindset of breaking down the objectives, prototyping, trial and error, etc. I do this as well all the time. I also totally love the over-engineering you often do, because often times you think of things and methods that I never would. In this case, I'd probably just mount some small metal plates all over the ceiling and a strong magnet to the quick release plate or selfie stick. But what's the fun in that? LOL.
Another great problem solving video. I love this. Thanks for sharing Bob
Even if the "thing" you is making isn't a problem we all have, seeing the ideation, prototyping, and troubleshooting is extremely interesting to me. Thanks for bringing us along Bob!
Although, when I eventually break down and get one of these cameras, I may have the exact same issue.
Really cool how you have a problem and then a solution all in one video! I'd say you're getting the hang of the 3d printing!
Very well done Bob, I was wondering if a piece of spring steel like a tool holder could be used to clamp onto the ceiling ? I do enjoy your "problem solving" videos.
Watching the video I just couldn't help but see the similarity between what you made and a bicycle brake. In fact, my first thought for solving your problem would be to use the full brake system with a ratchet and release mechanism on the handle. Squeeze it together and it ratches and holds on to the joist, then squeeze a bit and release a latch or something and it comes off.
I really liked one of the circular sketches a 2:38
A circular, compliant mechanism that grabs on the inside and flexes like a clock spring. It'd be easily scalable and fully printable... maybe. If not, it could use captured compression springs that wear slower than tension springs
Consider printing a TPU band for the "spring". Then you don't have to source the perfect spring. The bands tension could be set by varying the infill percentage and/or by selecting narrower/wider groves along the clamp to anchor the band in. It could pretty much be a rectangular rubber band that stretches over the clamp arms and seats into groves on the outside of each clamp arm.
What if you stuck multiple steel plates on the ceiling every few feet, and just got a magswitch type of connection on the pole. Repositioning might make it smoother
Because that would be too simple
Loved hearing you talk through the problems and possible solutions
My impression is you might have less issues with the foot geometry of the bulk of the foot was on the inside side of the pivot rather than the outside side, this way it would self correct into place more readily
I would have loved this about 10 years ago: videoing a band in a run-down house with multiple cameras mounted from the joists. It involved a lot of being on a ladder and moving cameras around.
Idea for the system: make a system on your joists similar to how an etch a sketch works (x and y axis). Then attach that with a couple motors and a computer. Then program areas where you routinely mount your camera. Then have buttons that you can press to have the mount move to those predestinated locations. You could also have a manual mode that allows you to move it to locations as required.
I love these kind of videos. Your thought process should be teached at schools so everyone can solve their poblems themselves.
Really enjoying theese videos where you are making things you will be activly using!
Have you tried a strong magnet with steel plates? or a roller broom holder... but in reverse? like a receipt hold but joists act like a receipt.
Loved the video for sure. Inventing something like this to solve an issue for yourself is what it's all about. I to love problem solving, Gives the brain a little workout.
Did something similar in my workshop for streaming. Used big magnet on bottom of monopod and some iron plates screwed into the joists at particular locations
Only made it 3:17 into the video: Curious if we came up with the same solution.... My first thought is a locking cam mechanism. Joists are uniform(ish) in size so this should work. You have a set of two cams that can grab the 2by but if you push past a certain point they release much like a air hose reel works.
I highly recommend looking into 3d printed springs. It will be easy to test with your printer and can be scaled for many of the applications you've been using.
Keep up the great work! I always look forward to seeing your projects!
I think putting the hinge point on the TPU closer to the tip of the finger would improve gripping force from the weight.
I’ve been working on a solution and a video about this exact same thing (the mounting a pole with a camera to the ceiling-part) to shot everywhere in my studio/workshop *and* to do topdown shots as well, *and* hold a small light as well.
I was lucky enough that the runners in my ceiling holding the ceiling tiles are metal, and not aluminum, so I’ve made a cross/4 legs with *tons* of magnets so it’s stable (enough) and easy on/off :) But in your space you would then have to attach metal plates at certain good spots maybe?
I love your "problem-solving" videos. Keep it up! Well done!
I really like this idea! I was thinking some gears on the pivot side of the clamp arms to keep both arms in sync.
Wicked cool!
Always love the problem solving, but me I'd just 3d print 6-8 mounts and spread them through out the shop. make it similar to power outlets, then you can move the camera easily from one spot to another.
Great job Bob, Problem Solving at the great level
Nice! I would suggest to give it a bit of a twist when you pull the clamp off the beam so only the side will wear and not the surface that needs to grab.
You could also put a compression spring between the the finger below the fulcrum. This way you have no exposed springs on the side that get in the way.
Maybe try to add some sand paper to the finger tips for more grip and less slide - TPU is not very good in providing friction.
really enjoying these iterative design process videos!
Love the problem solving and project!
Love your solution! Much more exciting and modular and educational than my thought of stainless steel and magnets.
Stainless steel is not very magnetic.
@mikebond6328 looks like some types of stainless steel are magnetic and some aren't! and some can become magnetic after being cold worked.
I like the idea of using a grabby hand toy as a possible solution, having it stay closed with a strong spring and a pull on the handle to release it. No idea if it would work but a fun possibility for those who don’t have a 3D printer available!
Hey Bob have you thought about making a pocket hole jig type clamp but with longer arms? One with the width set to grab your joists like the material the jig holds to drill the holes into
Nice solution. I assume a magnet on a metal strip attached to the joists was out of the question. Gluing or screwing washers or other things to joists would likely work as well.
if you want a version that's hardier for a future application needing WAY more grip power, the kind of bistable mechanism used for pens and sd card slots might work. a trigger in the mouth of the claw gets pushed by the joist and makes the claws squeeze way harder, then pushing it further than that makes the bistable mechanism release the pressure again
You should have made a track system to allow the camera mount to slide on. Like a train track you could have turns to allow the camera to slide to parts of the shop.
Interesting. My path would have been to model the camera clip that you put on the bottom of your clamp, and then print lots of them and install them on the ceiling all over your shop in places that are obvious and some in-between. Then you just have to detach the camera pole from one and put it in the next. Also, it would hold all your cameras through the same standardised base. Still fun to see your development process.
nice solution; first thing that came to my mind at the beginning was (very unrealistically): build some kind of monorail network on your ceiling, so you can "hang" the camera-mount on it easily (like a ropeway) and also move it around the shop.
360° cameras for workshops, great idea, i never thought of this kind of use
While I was watching the video, I came up with a different design and it will be tricky to describe verbally.. so here goes...
since you are clamping to joists that are all a consistent size, I feel like you don't actually need jaws that open or close. instead, if you made the clamping end look like the open end of a wrench, the clamping force will come from the material of the clamp. inside the "jaws", have two tear drop shaped cams where the pointy end is pointing downwards and the inside edge of the tear drop would be flatter than the other side (but this may not be necessary). Have both cams be lightly spring loaded to push the narrow end inwards. make the pivot point of the cams somwhere around the middle of the round half. when you push the clamp up against the joist, the cams will naturally open up, when weight is put back down (when you let go), the cams will be touching the joist due to the springs. since there isn't enough room for the cam to rotate all the way, it will effectively jam up on the joist. Think of the marble/bearing clamping of the rack that holds food orders in a resto kitchen. to open it up again, have two strings or cables attached to the outsides of the cams near the pointy bit and have them leveraged towards the outside of the clamp. and run the cable down the length of the clamp and you can maybe make a pull ring or maybe even a lever that releases the cams. The overall length of the clamp should be longer to place the release cable closer to a working height. or maybe even just 3d print some sort of a bracket that holds the release mechanism and have it snap onto the pole of the 360.
A few key points about my idea, the open end of the clamp should be bigger than the joist but only just enough to make it so the cams are able to rotate enough to jam onto the joist.
the material of the clamp would need to be a fairly rigid and not flexible at all.
the cams would ideally be sandwiched inside the clamp so that the pivot pin would be supported from both sides.
maybe 3d print the cams with ridges or short spikes or maybe even dual material like ABS and TPU (for the grippy bit against the joist)
to release, pull on the cable while pushing upwards and it should come right off without any fuss. I can try to draw a picture if you dm me an email to send it to.
Edge banding clamp at the end of a pole would be clutch
Hi Bob... I think magnets would be the easiest solution. magnets on selected spots on the beams and another one on the camera and voilá... you get different magnets with various holding strenghts. 👍
Another great problem solving tutorial Bob. Always interesting on the way you get to the solution. Can I also ask, What is the brand camera is it you have please? 👍🏻🇦🇺
Bob, would some type of grip tape (sand paper, tread tape) on the surface that fits against the joist improve how it hangs? or maybe the flexible filament you printed with is enough to do this now?
Something like a sheetrock grip could work too. Use the weight of the camera/stick as the leverage for the clamp.
Perhaps a larger version of a jewellers vice would work
I think all the final bit needed is some sort of stop so you don't smash the spring each time. Perhaps just a 3d printed piece that you glue in a magnet that sits on top of the bolt.
Awesome job, man! Loving the content 👌
Very nice problem-solving! Like it a lot.
I was kinda expecting for the solution to be more akin to how tree pruning scissors work with the Blades situated on one end of the Pole and the Grip on the other... In this case though you'd use the Grip to open the normally closed Clamps instead of the other way around.
I really liked this video. I would say this is one of your better ones you made,. What is the make and model of your camera? I’m looking for one for myself. You could remove all the nuts from the part and save weight by having the parts threaded. And use flathead cap screws might save a little weight too.Kind of give it a cleaner look too. Look forward to your next video.
Thanks! It's the X4 from Insta360.. happens to be on sale right now (affiliate link) amzn.to/4hVYT0B
Curious is the plans are available. I’ve only recently purchased a printer, and haven’t moved to multiple pieces either but and bolt connectivity. So was curious the tolerances for holding nuts. Before a buy a bunch of bolts at different lengths
An alternative approach might be to use magnets. It would mean that you would have to denote fixed attachment places; losing the ability to put the attachment absolutely anywhere, but I’m willing to bet that you tend to mount the camera in one or two key locations all the time.
Might be interesting to see that solution as an alternate implementation to this project?
I’m really enjoying these problem solving videos, I have zero use for the thing you made but really enjoyed the video ! 🎉
You could make a track system that you can slide around to the different areas
Brilliant, Bob! Fantastic work! 😃
I need to create something similar... But different. My shop has normal selling, it's not like yours. It's going to be way more difficult... 😕
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Maybe you can add some rubber padding to the clamps to improve their grip
Love your videos I wonder if instead of the thing - use strong magnets and a steel plate in appropriate places would be more simple as some people may not have exposed joists
You sure that you don't create problems just so you can solve them? 😁 Love to watch your thought processes anyway. - Chris
I mean, probably, yeah. But I love to solve problems 🤷🏻 That's like a musician only listening to music, instead of also playing it themselves.
I use a 2 sided magnet I bought on Amazon to mount my camera on literally anything at the gym. Would be easy to implement here I would think.
I also bought insta360 for my shop, but the low light video quality was just terrible, had to sell it. Does it produce any usable footage for you?
I love these specific problem solving videos!
If you have specific locations where you always set the camera, screw cup magnets to each location. Then all you need to do it lift the camera in place, or pull to let it loose.
Excellent!