the problem of the wobble can be solved by changing the connection to the baseplate. Instead. you can stiffen it and add a dumpning effect by adding a 3d print thats connected both to the "tower" and the baseplate, plastic, even pla will behave like a dumpner, just make it a triangle.
My thought too. Also make the connection to it taller and have a couple bolts going through 90 degrees to the first two. Triangulate the support a bit wider on all sides. Could also add rubber washers to the bolts that could increase the damping. A bit of lead shot in the pole could make it act more like a dead blow hammer too.
I made yours from the last video but with a few changes. I used Neewer threaded shoulder rig mounts which extend straight out so they can't limit my up and down range and it works really well. Made a few other changes as well but I like what you did here. I used push down door stoppers which work well but I really like that yours can stop with just one kick down. Pretty cool!
The wobble got worse _because_ you added the battery pack to the top. You added weight to an arm stretched out over nothing at the top of a long pole. The laws of physics would require more weights near the bottom and middle to absorb the wobble before it could transfer to the thinner, taller structure. Telephone poles aren't larger at the bottom and buried several feet underground for no reason.
Two points of contact, from the base to that center extrusion, would add way more rigidity to that setup. Just add a piece of aluminum from the outside of the base plate to to extrusion about a foot from where it contacts the base on the both axis. You will lose some travel with the carriage, but it will not wobble anymore.
I feel like the common-sense solution staring you in the face was to add angled supporting struts to the base of the pole. The reliance on a single, perpendicular connection point to the base is the thing that makes it an inherently unstable arrangement. Alternatively you could have taken a completely different approach and spaced out the two vertical extrusions, added horizontal beams for rigidity, and have the sleds slide up and down both simultaniously. |--------------| | | -----|--------------|----- | | |--------------| | | | | | | ---------------------------
Fun experiment: Glue a weight to the diaphragm of a chunky speaker and stick two of those to the top of the pole in perpendicular axis. Then see how long the vibrations last as you vary the resistance across the coils shorted through a variable resistor/range of resistors? It should convert the relative motion into heat in the resistors and you could have some fun with variable damping in different axis.
9:08 Bob... concrete is the lazy way, going ham with a sledge is called maximum effort. Lol, love the revisit, it's cool to see some of the changes that you made!
It's funny he mentioned all the other silly ways people tried to fill it up to strengthen it before "the lazy way" of slamming a steel bar through it. That was my first thought. Never even considered sand or whatever. The Dunning-Kruger effect is very prominent I guess.
Love the revisions. I think a quick way to upgrade it would be adding steel cables with turn buckles from the very top (at the back so it's not in the way of the trolley or the mounted camera) all the way down to the edges of the base. Tighten these up, and you've got an isosceles triangle, very very strong.
Really love this vid. Great to see iterative improvement. I know on making it you mentioned a distaste for this type of video, but just know this one landed and was fun!
How about a rod with a rubber tip that extends upward and contacts the ceiling? Perhaps it could be spring loaded. Roll the platform where you need it, then raise the rod to contact the ceiling. You would have zero wobble. I probably would have stuffed the center with a length of square steel tubing. As others have mentioned, 4 struts at the base would help too, but that would necessitate changing your storage at the base.
I used to own a small photography business, so this project scratches an itch i've always had. Love it. Just to add in my 2 cents. Have you thought about removing the camera monitor from the top of the camera? I understand you are trying to remove the movement from the stand itself, but having all that weight on top of the camera can't be helping. Thank you for all of your knowledge and efforts!
I think you need something to damp the wobble. Inside big skyscrapers they have a damped pendulum to stop resonance. I've no idea what would be best here, but try zip tying a small bottle of cooking oil to the top of the post?
Perhaps looking into the engineering of earthquake dampening might help spark ideas for reducing the vibration issue a bit more. Adding tension springs at the bottom of the column, attached to the base plate at an angle, might assist in canceling out vibrations faster, or mitigate them outright.
Hey Bob - Love it!! Thinking out loud... is there some sort of "non driven" dampener you could attach to the top to take those repetitive wobbles out? Oil in a tube? Just a thought
Pass a wire in the middle, attached to the top and the base and tighten it. It will transfert vibrations right into the base. The base acts as a dampener for the whole thing, add weight to it or a dampening material and it should reduce vibrations quite effectively. Just like road lights poles are installed.
I was a pro photographer and had a 10 foot “unipod” in my studio that easily supported an 8x10 view camera. It had a wishbone shaped base on 4 inch lockable casters but the center pole was a 4 or 5 in hollow chromed pipe with the counterweight inside the pole. Solid as an I-beam.
I would add steel cables from the corners of the bottom steel plate up to as high as you can without interfering to the system. You add a screwing device like for cable railings you can tight it as much as you can and even. Im pretty sure this would act just like using triangle angles or adjustable extrusions angle brackets and extrusion 4040. Also without the weight and cost. Maybe Im wrong, but thats what I would try to make it stronger. Other idea was to use 3 bars and put it in a triangle shape, so 2 side by side, and one in front of them so it become way stronger. Last idea would be to use TRUSS (type truss T35) likely the one they use for studio/shows. They even have base with wheels. Then a custom square brackets (like a sleeve) of maybe 2ft high with wheels that will roll on the 4 rounded tube. Can be 8 wheels, but I would go 16 (4 wheels per side but spaced a bit oer side so wheels bracket dont touch). Wheels would be adjustable to roll tight on the truss. Wheels rubber would add damper to stop vibration quickly. Weight counterpart weight could be sliding inside the truss middle with steel cables. Would just add a bottom puley so its a loop system that doesnt move much and the cable cant skip the top pullys. So my 2 ideas for a version 3! 😅
Cool video. Really like the iterative approach and failing along the way. German word for "making things worse, when trying to improve them": "verschlimmbessern" (sort of 'disimproving'.) 😀
This piece of equipment is called a salon stand. Theirs many versions and designs but the best I’ve come across is the ones from Manfrotto. Perhaps you could take and build on some of their ideas.
I-beam or thick rectangular hollow section and you can then screw linear rails or extrusions to the side. The wider the member the less flex. 4 40x40 extrusions with a 1inch space that acts as a flange with be interesting then you have 8 sides to anchors to. Or 4 for heavier stuffs. Might be an idea to put some castor guards on this so if you’re in a hurry you don’t catch the castors with your feet (barefoot or not) and it will save your walls and furniture from dings…
You’re amazing. Some thoughts. Wouldn’t steel be less ridged than aluminum and bend more? What you need is to increase the modulus and a bigger cross section would help, as two do. To be cleaner, I’d run the usb cables inside the extrusions. I’d also try putting diagonal knee braces to make it more ridge, that’d change the bending length dramatically, even if the knee brace was only 2’ off the base I think the effect would be huge… could either be ridged or cable stays.
I have almost all of my big shop tools on that mobile base kit, and it's amazing - except I upgraded to all castor wheels instead of 2 castors and 2 static wheels. I was so annoyed with the movement restriction of having to whip one side around all the time. It's so much better now.
Projects are never "finished". There's always room for iterative improvement. That's okay. You stop when the pain of improving it is more than the pain of living with its imperfection.
the issue of wobbliness is better solved by damping, not increasing the rigidity. Try adapting a bow limb dampener to the top of the pole! effectively just a weight attached with a rubbery connection that will dissipate the vibrations!
Often in skyscrapers they have a dampened weight near the top - maybe a closed box at the top with a viscuos fluid filling it 3/4 of the way - the movement will be damped by the fluid.
CalmFloor was out of budget, I'm guessing? 🤣 But on a more serious note, I would think adding four short extrusions in the corners of the base, and building a truss to the main extrusion would help dampen/stiffen it, I would think. Been too long since my statics class to actually calculate it tho. LOL
Feels like you're trying to fix the vibration with stiffness, which will eventually work. But in cars and such to stop vibrations they usually add dampers. Crazy idea, hear me out: You can't really add dampers to the top where it vibrates because there's nothing to attach them to. But, what you actually need is something that doesn't move relative to the vibration... Maybe you could put two horizontal dampers at the top perpendicular to each other, with a big old mass on the end. Then the inertia of the mass is what opposes the motion of the pole and the damper dissipates the energy? Other idea: two separate poles with magnets between them on one, and induction in the aluminium will dampen the relative motion?
You’re amazing. Some thoughts. Wouldn’t steel be less ridged than aluminum and oboe more? I’d run the usb cables inside the extrusions. I’d put diagonal knee braces to make it more ridge, that’d change the bending length dramatically, even if the knee brace was only 2’ off the base.
I’m wondering if it is possible to run a cable down the inner center that could be tension tightened to create stability. 🤷🏼♂️ Otherwise awesome video, keep em coming!
How about a gimbal on the camera. So the rod wobbles but you can't see it in the video. Or something crazy like gyroscopes: James Bruton has a RUclips video on "How this Active Gyroscope Balances" Tue gimbal seems like a much easier solution though.
Willing to bet the issue with the wobble is entirely between the baseplate and your vertical post. Steel still bends even though it's 1/2" thick. You need a gusset between the base and the pole. even a 3D printed triangle Gusset will do WAY more for your issue than all the extra stiffness in the vertical post.
How about big old sheets of plastic on the top so when it wobbles it has to move a load of air dissipating the energy? Make the existing surrounding air the dampening "fluid" medium?
I really think you need to make this an "H" shape instead of the "T." Move the 2 extruded piece apart have weights and pulleys on both sides of the center bar. This would not change the functionality and give much better rigidity. The up and down shake would not transfer to sideways movement.
It seems to me that it's a damping issue rather than stiffness, so a heavy liquid in the center might work better because it will slosh around wasting energy rather than acting as a stiffer but stiff efficient spring?
Your casters are protected polyurethane. They are going to " wiggle" due to them being an elastomer. Steel wheels would stop that but where does it end?
Yeah, I think a solid core increases stiffness which reduces the amplitude of the vibration, but a loose filling acts like a damper making it stop moving faster? You ultimately need to either make it so stiff that the vibration is imperceptible. or increase the damping so that it converts the vibrational energy into heat faster?
Why don't you think about a way to connect your pole to the ceiling? You take a plate and screw it on something you can move in the pole. Push it against the ceiling, lock, and the wobble should go.
There is no such thing as "light and stable". Shoulda went with concrete in the base and shaft for stability. All that steal was a waste of money. Also, to add to the bolt cutting, back the nut up a little bit and taper file the starter thread down to "zero".
Where were you 40 years ago when I could have used a stand like that. Your base would be steadier with 3 wheels. Three legged tables don't wobble. Not sure about this but a triangular extrusion might be more stable for whatever diameter vs square. Tensioning might make it more stable too vs wood center. (Really into territory I don't know much about with tensioning.) I think a little larger wheels would let you move the whole system more smoothly. Doing whatever you can to keep things from sticking out, like those wheel locks, would be safer, less likely to trip over. I think you're better off using a cart for your extra gear. It moves it up higher so you don't have to bend over all the time and you have drawers to organize the little stuff. If you drop your camera it could hit the gear below and cause more expensive damage. (I managed a camera store for 27 years and was a pro photographer for 22 years.) Maybe build the cart and attach the extrusion to it but so you can still move the camera up and down to floor level. Standoffs? Anyways it would increase the mass, which should be a good thing. ?? You might also consider a round base so your less likely to bang up your feet or ankles. Harder to trip over too with no edges sticking out. If you use sandbags with handles, instead of bricks, you could transport the entire rig a little easier. You might already have some for weighting down your light stands. I'm new to the channel so will be checking out the original build and other things. Thanks!
Love seeing the Tron Lights shooting around in the background.... Cool Beams!
the problem of the wobble can be solved by changing the connection to the baseplate. Instead. you can stiffen it and add a dumpning effect by adding a 3d print thats connected both to the "tower" and the baseplate, plastic, even pla will behave like a dumpner, just make it a triangle.
My thought exactly, just like stiffening up a pergola to reduce racking
Agreed.
My thought too. Also make the connection to it taller and have a couple bolts going through 90 degrees to the first two. Triangulate the support a bit wider on all sides. Could also add rubber washers to the bolts that could increase the damping. A bit of lead shot in the pole could make it act more like a dead blow hammer too.
Try threaded rod to put tension on the post, more you tighten the nut should be less movement 🤞
I was thinking the same thing... compression would really rule out the flexibility of the aluminum extrusion and couple it more securely to the base.
I was thinking a cable but a rod would be easier due to the available threading 👍
I made yours from the last video but with a few changes. I used Neewer threaded shoulder rig mounts which extend straight out so they can't limit my up and down range and it works really well. Made a few other changes as well but I like what you did here. I used push down door stoppers which work well but I really like that yours can stop with just one kick down. Pretty cool!
Alexandre Chappel here on RUclips made a great version of such crane. Also with 3D Print and Wood/Metal. If you need some inspiration :)
The wobble got worse _because_ you added the battery pack to the top. You added weight to an arm stretched out over nothing at the top of a long pole. The laws of physics would require more weights near the bottom and middle to absorb the wobble before it could transfer to the thinner, taller structure. Telephone poles aren't larger at the bottom and buried several feet underground for no reason.
Two points of contact, from the base to that center extrusion, would add way more rigidity to that setup. Just add a piece of aluminum from the outside of the base plate to to extrusion about a foot from where it contacts the base on the both axis. You will lose some travel with the carriage, but it will not wobble anymore.
I feel like the common-sense solution staring you in the face was to add angled supporting struts to the base of the pole. The reliance on a single, perpendicular connection point to the base is the thing that makes it an inherently unstable arrangement.
Alternatively you could have taken a completely different approach and spaced out the two vertical extrusions, added horizontal beams for rigidity, and have the sleds slide up and down both simultaniously.
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I'm not a spiritual person but being able to model something and then print it is the closest thing to a miracle that you can experience every day.
Fun experiment: Glue a weight to the diaphragm of a chunky speaker and stick two of those to the top of the pole in perpendicular axis. Then see how long the vibrations last as you vary the resistance across the coils shorted through a variable resistor/range of resistors?
It should convert the relative motion into heat in the resistors and you could have some fun with variable damping in different axis.
Have you seen Alexande Chappel's camera stand??
9:08 Bob... concrete is the lazy way, going ham with a sledge is called maximum effort. Lol, love the revisit, it's cool to see some of the changes that you made!
It's funny he mentioned all the other silly ways people tried to fill it up to strengthen it before "the lazy way" of slamming a steel bar through it. That was my first thought. Never even considered sand or whatever. The Dunning-Kruger effect is very prominent I guess.
Thumbs up for the bolt cutting tip, but if you forget the nut before cutting you can also slightly file a taper on the bolt's end.
I was going to add . I taper mine every time. Just doing what my Dad taught me 60+ years ago
Love the revisions. I think a quick way to upgrade it would be adding steel cables with turn buckles from the very top (at the back so it's not in the way of the trolley or the mounted camera) all the way down to the edges of the base. Tighten these up, and you've got an isosceles triangle, very very strong.
Really love this vid. Great to see iterative improvement.
I know on making it you mentioned a distaste for this type of video, but just know this one landed and was fun!
How about a rod with a rubber tip that extends upward and contacts the ceiling? Perhaps it could be spring loaded. Roll the platform where you need it, then raise the rod to contact the ceiling. You would have zero wobble.
I probably would have stuffed the center with a length of square steel tubing. As others have mentioned, 4 struts at the base would help too, but that would necessitate changing your storage at the base.
I used to own a small photography business, so this project scratches an itch i've always had. Love it. Just to add in my 2 cents. Have you thought about removing the camera monitor from the top of the camera? I understand you are trying to remove the movement from the stand itself, but having all that weight on top of the camera can't be helping. Thank you for all of your knowledge and efforts!
I think you need something to damp the wobble. Inside big skyscrapers they have a damped pendulum to stop resonance. I've no idea what would be best here, but try zip tying a small bottle of cooking oil to the top of the post?
Really love the vibe lately on the videos... I can't say whats different but, something is and I like it.
Perhaps looking into the engineering of earthquake dampening might help spark ideas for reducing the vibration issue a bit more. Adding tension springs at the bottom of the column, attached to the base plate at an angle, might assist in canceling out vibrations faster, or mitigate them outright.
Hey Bob - Love it!! Thinking out loud... is there some sort of "non driven" dampener you could attach to the top to take those repetitive wobbles out? Oil in a tube? Just a thought
I was thinking the exact same thing, some sort of mass on a spring. Might even make the 1 track feasable
Pass a wire in the middle, attached to the top and the base and tighten it. It will transfert vibrations right into the base. The base acts as a dampener for the whole thing, add weight to it or a dampening material and it should reduce vibrations quite effectively. Just like road lights poles are installed.
I was a pro photographer and had a 10 foot “unipod” in my studio that easily supported an 8x10 view camera. It had a wishbone shaped base on 4 inch lockable casters but the center pole was a 4 or 5 in hollow chromed pipe with the counterweight inside the pole. Solid as an I-beam.
I would add steel cables from the corners of the bottom steel plate up to as high as you can without interfering to the system. You add a screwing device like for cable railings you can tight it as much as you can and even. Im pretty sure this would act just like using triangle angles or adjustable extrusions angle brackets and extrusion 4040. Also without the weight and cost.
Maybe Im wrong, but thats what I would try to make it stronger.
Other idea was to use 3 bars and put it in a triangle shape, so 2 side by side, and one in front of them so it become way stronger.
Last idea would be to use TRUSS (type truss T35) likely the one they use for studio/shows. They even have base with wheels. Then a custom square brackets (like a sleeve) of maybe 2ft high with wheels that will roll on the 4 rounded tube. Can be 8 wheels, but I would go 16 (4 wheels per side but spaced a bit oer side so wheels bracket dont touch).
Wheels would be adjustable to roll tight on the truss. Wheels rubber would add damper to stop vibration quickly. Weight counterpart weight could be sliding inside the truss middle with steel cables. Would just add a bottom puley so its a loop system that doesnt move much and the cable cant skip the top pullys.
So my 2 ideas for a version 3!
😅
Love the safety squints lol
Gotta say, I didn’t see that coming! Totally surprised me.
Cool video. Really like the iterative approach and failing along the way. German word for "making things worse, when trying to improve them": "verschlimmbessern" (sort of 'disimproving'.) 😀
This piece of equipment is called a salon stand. Theirs many versions and designs but the best I’ve come across is the ones from Manfrotto. Perhaps you could take and build on some of their ideas.
Some sort of angled bracing or gussets probably would have gone a long way. But, I'm glad you got it satisfactory.
I-beam or thick rectangular hollow section and you can then screw linear rails or extrusions to the side.
The wider the member the less flex. 4 40x40 extrusions with a 1inch space that acts as a flange with be interesting then you have 8 sides to anchors to. Or 4 for heavier stuffs.
Might be an idea to put some castor guards on this so if you’re in a hurry you don’t catch the castors with your feet (barefoot or not) and it will save your walls and furniture from dings…
Maybe u get an thic threaded rod put it inside the Aluminium Pole and thighten it from Both Sides with big waschers or some sort of end cap
You’re amazing. Some thoughts. Wouldn’t steel be less ridged than aluminum and bend more? What you need is to increase the modulus and a bigger cross section would help, as two do. To be cleaner, I’d run the usb cables inside the extrusions. I’d also try putting diagonal knee braces to make it more ridge, that’d change the bending length dramatically, even if the knee brace was only 2’ off the base I think the effect would be huge… could either be ridged or cable stays.
You could emulate what they did to the 101 floor building Taipei One and add a chunk or steel (ball) on the top to take up the shake. Check it out.
Gussets on the bracket mounting the pole to the base plate would work well too...
I have almost all of my big shop tools on that mobile base kit, and it's amazing - except I upgraded to all castor wheels instead of 2 castors and 2 static wheels. I was so annoyed with the movement restriction of having to whip one side around all the time. It's so much better now.
Oh the anticipation of the wobble!!!
Recommendation: Fill the extrusions with a mixture of epoxy and small pebbles.
Projects are never "finished". There's always room for iterative improvement. That's okay. You stop when the pain of improving it is more than the pain of living with its imperfection.
I actually really like seeing a V2 video
It looks like you need gussets at bottom 🤔
I used the same type of rechargeable battery on a mobile TV stand for a sunroom where I wasn’t sure where I wanted it permanently.
I noticed that you have joists overhead. A rigid arm connecting the boom to the rafter should eliminate all wobble
You should try a tuned mass damper like on a skyscraper
the issue of wobbliness is better solved by damping, not increasing the rigidity. Try adapting a bow limb dampener to the top of the pole! effectively just a weight attached with a rubbery connection that will dissipate the vibrations!
Schedule 40 black steel pipe or 2"+ square steel tube might be a cheaper option than the aluminum extrusion.
I think the best structure for the pole is a box truss or something like that
Sand does a great job of dampening vibrations. They fill roller coasters with it
Often in skyscrapers they have a dampened weight near the top - maybe a closed box at the top with a viscuos fluid filling it 3/4 of the way - the movement will be damped by the fluid.
CalmFloor was out of budget, I'm guessing? 🤣 But on a more serious note, I would think adding four short extrusions in the corners of the base, and building a truss to the main extrusion would help dampen/stiffen it, I would think. Been too long since my statics class to actually calculate it tho. LOL
Feels like you're trying to fix the vibration with stiffness, which will eventually work. But in cars and such to stop vibrations they usually add dampers.
Crazy idea, hear me out: You can't really add dampers to the top where it vibrates because there's nothing to attach them to. But, what you actually need is something that doesn't move relative to the vibration... Maybe you could put two horizontal dampers at the top perpendicular to each other, with a big old mass on the end. Then the inertia of the mass is what opposes the motion of the pole and the damper dissipates the energy?
Other idea: two separate poles with magnets between them on one, and induction in the aluminium will dampen the relative motion?
A cable inside the extruded aluminum under tension might work to stiffen the mast quite a bit.
You’re amazing. Some thoughts. Wouldn’t steel be less ridged than aluminum and oboe more? I’d run the usb cables inside the extrusions. I’d put diagonal knee braces to make it more ridge, that’d change the bending length dramatically, even if the knee brace was only 2’ off the base.
One I use 20 yers ago wheigt round 150kg or more. It was cast iron base and 120mm tube. It was dedycate for large and medium format camera.
If u add 45 degree bars attaching to the base and midpoint of the length of the rod, that should decrease the wobble.
Need to put some diagonal cross bracing. So the connection point is not at the bottom
How about using a counter balance like skyscrapers?
Uhm… seeing Bob in two cameras, if you squint right is like true 3d effect!! lol
Hi Bob I have no idea if it's a good idea. But my first thought was a threaded rod running from the top to the bottom
I’m wondering if it is possible to run a cable down the inner center that could be tension tightened to create stability. 🤷🏼♂️ Otherwise awesome video, keep em coming!
How about a gimbal on the camera. So the rod wobbles but you can't see it in the video.
Or something crazy like gyroscopes: James Bruton has a RUclips video on "How this Active Gyroscope Balances" Tue gimbal seems like a much easier solution though.
Instead of aluminum extrusions, I wonder if you could substitute 2 pieces of Unistrut back to back
Why not build a dampener for the top. All you would need is a series of sliders with a weight to bring it back to center.
Thanks Bob
Willing to bet the issue with the wobble is entirely between the baseplate and your vertical post. Steel still bends even though it's 1/2" thick. You need a gusset between the base and the pole. even a 3D printed triangle Gusset will do WAY more for your issue than all the extra stiffness in the vertical post.
How about big old sheets of plastic on the top so when it wobbles it has to move a load of air dissipating the energy?
Make the existing surrounding air the dampening "fluid" medium?
Next time: Arduino based g-sensor with moving mass up top cancelling the harmonic vibrations even before they start.
I love that ball head. I dont see it on the Kit site. Do you recall the model?
I really think you need to make this an "H" shape instead of the "T." Move the 2 extruded piece apart have weights and pulleys on both sides of the center bar. This would not change the functionality and give much better rigidity. The up and down shake would not transfer to sideways movement.
What about adding gusset on the base of the column? Simple and efficient ;
It's a solid idea. You're effectively reducing it's effective length? shorter length should be higher resonant frequency and should stop faster?
Any way to install some braces on the lower portion. A heavier piece of tube slid over the extrusion? A foot or so would make a big difference.
How about a cable that pre-tensions the upright?
Why didn't you add square nuts in the track and bolt in some 45° brackets back to the base?
Just make a tripod adding 2 brackets to the pole.. then use the 2 free faces to slide all the stuff
Hmm while I was watching I kept thinking what if you implemented tension lines. Kind of like a tensegrity table.
It seems to me that it's a damping issue rather than stiffness, so a heavy liquid in the center might work better because it will slosh around wasting energy rather than acting as a stiffer but stiff efficient spring?
I'll be waiting for MK3
I am wondering what hapened to rest of the crew...? I am seeing less of them. Awesome video btw!!
i think more bracing at the bottom. some gussets of sorts
wouldn't adding truss to the bottom help with the wobble? look into c stands
Your casters are protected polyurethane. They are going to " wiggle" due to them being an elastomer. Steel wheels would stop that but where does it end?
Why not adding a cable inside the poll and put a screw and bolt at one end on the top to do a post-tension hardening of the extrusion.
Why instead of doubling it up not put it under tension to stop the wobble?
4 angle brackets on the base to the center pole.
I think you dismissed the sand too quiclky. Lots or large CNC machines are filled with loose sand to dampen vibrations.
Yeah, I think a solid core increases stiffness which reduces the amplitude of the vibration, but a loose filling acts like a damper making it stop moving faster? You ultimately need to either make it so stiff that the vibration is imperceptible. or increase the damping so that it converts the vibrational energy into heat faster?
For stability, my fist thought was guy-wires.
All this work, all you need are gussets at the bottom to stop the wabbling
Why don't you think about a way to connect your pole to the ceiling? You take a plate and screw it on something you can move in the pole. Push it against the ceiling, lock, and the wobble should go.
Version 3: active damping..... like they use in skyscrapers.... you know you want to.....
C🎃🎃L
BEANS
It's top hevery need to support the top 😂
Just have Scottie make you an inertial dampener for the pole.. duh !!
Can't you just add a camera gimbal stabilizer to hold the cam on the arm?
You may not have to go full length with the second pole.
you need a dampening ARB XDDD
Wouldn't it be better if there were side braces at the bottom?
There is no such thing as "light and stable". Shoulda went with concrete in the base and shaft for stability. All that steal was a waste of money. Also, to add to the bolt cutting, back the nut up a little bit and taper file the starter thread down to "zero".
Yo
Where were you 40 years ago when I could have used a stand like that.
Your base would be steadier with 3 wheels. Three legged tables don't wobble.
Not sure about this but a triangular extrusion might be more stable for whatever diameter vs square. Tensioning might make it more stable too vs wood center. (Really into territory I don't know much about with tensioning.)
I think a little larger wheels would let you move the whole system more smoothly. Doing whatever you can to keep things from sticking out, like those wheel locks, would be safer, less likely to trip over.
I think you're better off using a cart for your extra gear. It moves it up higher so you don't have to bend over all the time and you have drawers to organize the little stuff. If you drop your camera it could hit the gear below and cause more expensive damage. (I managed a camera store for 27 years and was a pro photographer for 22 years.)
Maybe build the cart and attach the extrusion to it but so you can still move the camera up and down to floor level. Standoffs? Anyways it would increase the mass, which should be a good thing. ??
You might also consider a round base so your less likely to bang up your feet or ankles. Harder to trip over too with no edges sticking out. If you use sandbags with handles, instead of bricks, you could transport the entire rig a little easier. You might already have some for weighting down your light stands.
I'm new to the channel so will be checking out the original build and other things. Thanks!
Make a desk that lights up when it senses your hands go over it.
Please
mass dampening.