I've always wanted to see inside these, and this is a perfect teardown for my interests, hahah. Love the walkthrough, explanation, and analyses you do!
I'm a service repairman for GE Appliances in The United States. I replace these board from time to time. Most of the time the visible failures for these boards are the capacitors. Our induction coils has a glass wool sheet insulation covering them.
I’ve been looking for a new video from you. Very glad to see it! I spend so much time in my lab and doing electronics work and this year has been really shitty and stressful. But your videos, the way you approach electronics with so much excitement… And your cat… Help with my stress. Thank you for your videos
This is fantastic, i have been considering buying a broken induction cooker for a while, just to see how it works, so this video and the next one, couldn't be timed better :)
Thank you Dan. A fantastic set of videos. Fixed my NEFF HobT36FB41X0G (virtually the same as your hob but with additional relay switching).Testing with two temperature sensors swapped seemed to generate a recalibration and removed the fault.
when you called the molten 7 segment LED nice! i think that was the 1st time you called something that was damaged NICE! instead of DODGY!! P.S. that was awesome to see inside one of those.... thank'x a lot, And THANK'S TO THE GUY WHO SENT IT IN... NICE ONE DUDE!!!!
I've seen guts of / repaired several induction hobs from european brands; AEG, Electrolux, Bosch, Whirlpool .. and really, I could swear blind there is only one factory designing and producing these here in europe. This unit our artist has got hold of makes no exception :) And hey @DiodeGoneWild , thanks for the informative video - again. NOT dodgy stuff indeed ;)
@@sioux22 Well, european brands seem to be much alike. I think most of them are at same level regarding to durability. Of course induction hobs are rather challenging environments for components: high voltages combined with high currents are known stress factor for semiconductors. Luckily they seem to get better all the time. So, if buying some of the (european) known brands like Siemens, AEG, Miele etc., I would select by weighing usability, not the internals 😊
I have not seen the data of this but normally they are around 7.5 KW with all the coils on at maximum, but I have also seen 9 KW! It should be added that it is difficult to use all four inductors at full power, because normally it goes to about half, apart from when you have to boil the water for pasta (here in Italy the main food in a meal) where you start full power to a boil and then drop to half to keep it boiling so a salesman told me, hope he wasn't lying in hopes of selling
You're correct, that extra relay around 14:00 temporarily provides a power boost to a coil for boiling water seriously quickly. It automatically cuts out after a few minutes. I have the exact same power boards in my Bosch; I had to replace them after a big voltage surge on the grid. The power company paid, but took the old boards as proof. I kept the massive heat sinks thoigh
I've been looking for a teardown of an induction cooker but couldn't find any, now this pops up in my recommended from my favorite RUclipsr.... youtube was hiding it from me!!
This circuit looks very similar to your SSTC driver. I wonder if it would be possible to modify or replace the control circuitry and drive a Tesla coil with it.
Very interesting, thanks. You clearly know your stuff. And your accent is quite something to behold too. :-) I see you have a website full of good stuff too.
Thank you DGW for your effort that you explain everything to us so precisely, often with a schematic! And a big KISS to your sweet CAT 😙 😽Thanks also to Marcel from Germany for this interesting product❗️❗️❗️ 👏👏😊
Yes power it on and make some measurements. I believe the thing in the middle of the coil is not a temperature sensor but most likely a pot presence sensor. If i am wrong correct me.
No I think it is a temperature sensor. It is measuring the HF current to sense if a pot is present, so the coil itself is the sensor. These induction stoves often have a temperature controlled mode in addition to the constant power modes. Plus they can sense if the coil is overheating with it, which can happen if someone leaves an empty pan on it or similar. It will heat up to hundreds of degrees which eventually gets through the glass and insulation to the coil.
@@Basement-Science Basically you mean this is like one of those wireless charger that make pulses of signal to detect phone presence but this one is for cooking.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk I actually tried to use a ferrire rod for a Tesla coil,but it got warm after maybe 30 seconds.Although it was a spark gap Tesla coil with 7 turns on the primary driven with a 7kV neon sign transformer.So 1kV per turn was probably too much and the ferrite rod saturated.Same thing happened when I tried using flyback transformers in spark gap circuits.
I love this video ! Do you have any waveform to go along with the schematics ? I am a Electrical Engineer . Please add more schematics for the different areas of the induction stove .
@@HaseebElectronics You would need to learn a lot about electronics to fix these in general. I dont think anyone can help much otherwise. The only easy repairs I could think of are broken power components, like broken IGBTs. You can measure if they are short-circuited and replace them with the same type.
@@Basement-Science power related components are easy to troubleshoot and locate the fault But the situation becomes critical when microcontroller related issues are faced. In that case most of technical staff have no idea, from where to start and which is the probability of failure
@@HaseebElectronics sir, that's why people Don't want to get these things repaired. just replaces control board. I am a regular viewer of ur both English and urdu channel. sir what is ur opinion on electronics repair on business perspective? repair or just replace?
The microcontrollers are probably all types of protections (overvoltage, etc) and of course for controlling the diaplays on the other board.... and probably even for the temperature protection NTCs. imagine designers, how do they actually be able to design this stuff... they have probably a huge experience... which i hope to have because i love electronics!! P.S - broken induction cooker boards are very useful because you can desolder all this components that can be useful (Full bridge, relays, IGBTs, toroids, film capacitors and other stuff)... AND HEATSINKS!
If you are not using those boards you can always salvage components from it. If I had even one of those boards I will not leave a single resistor on it :P
Very informational but a bit above my head. I have a very similar Siemens hob. One side started to malfunction and I have been using only the right side, but now the hob won't even turn on. I don't know where to start to find out what needs to be changed. Maybe you could give me some pointers?
Hi diode. Can you give me a hint, what's wrong with my induction cooker. The two right side areas make E6 error. It should mean that only one phase is delivering even when I wired up with two (400V). When I wire up with only one phase (230 V) all four areas Work Well and I get no errors. It's a Witt WIF70QF.
@@erroraccount367 If you convince the protection circuits to run, then maybe. A tesla coil will look like there is no pot. It could also kill itself if it is not designed for so much resonating power.
@@Basement-Science yeah so if resonance happens what is to stop the high power draw. Um oh yeah i think this had a current sensing transformer. I guess that might regulate it . Not completely sure but i guess it could draw to much power in certain situations.
@@Buzzhumma Problem is, it will most likely just turn off when there is too much resonance (and restart after a while), instead of trying to regulate it. Too much resonance will look like there is no pot, so no point trying to run.
@@mernok2001 of course, and due to the ferrites , the coupling factor to the secondary could be excessive. And the frequency of the cooker it´s probably too low, but was just an idea that came to my mind.
Induction cookers are much more pleasant to use if many power levels (probably determined by duty cycle) are possible. My one-burner cooker has nearly 100 power levels, and that’s unusual. Cheap ones can have as few as 8 levels and unless you’re just boiling water that is annoying. So some complexity could be providing more power levels to the user?
This induction cooker manufacturer is clearly Bosch. I can tell it just by looking at control board symbols and the connection terminals - almost all Bosch cookers share them.
Awesome! Now I know why I hear very loud 100 Hz humming whenever my phone buddy with wired handsfree approaches turned on induction stove. I almost thought 100 Hz is the operating frequency of the cooker but that sounded odd. Lack of smoothing is much more plausible explanation. I don't understand the purpose of bonding the half-bridges together. I would expect they would reconfigure to full bridge, but it is not the case. So basically it just connects the IGBTs in paralel. Is it only to lower that (already pretty low) impedance of turned-on IBGT?
Thankyou for making me smarter! 👍🏻would love to see part2 and measurements and even some modifications to the frequency and tank circuit effect on the heating time of water in a pot etc. Is this a zvs driver circuit??
The audio and video quality in this is the best on your channel to date! I always love learning from your videos. I wonder if you could use one of those coils to make a metal detector?
Thanks :) honestly, I had the same thought about the metal detector when seeing the coils. Maybe one day I may try to build one. In the far past, I've built a simple beat frequency detector.
@@DiodeGoneWild I think it would be a fun project. I was actually JUST looking at projects for Arduino controlled DYI metal detectors yesterday. With enough batteries, it could also function as a portable lock melter! 😂
imho these coils are wasted on a metal detector, which works with small signals and must be as light as possible at the tip so as not to tire the finder too much. If mounted in a support with wheels they could be used for very high power appliances, but finding metals at more than 2 meters deep ... then it makes you dig a lot. solong!
The capacitors are 350V x 2 in series because the connection diagram shows these things are designed for up to 415V AC input. The company must me reusing the same boards from consumer through industrial induction heater products.
13:30 That sounds like the boost function for sure. There is limits on it. On mine it can only be used with two plates on, one on either "group" of two.
Comparing this to just putting your pot in a wood fire I realize we're in the future. My induction cooker in my kitchen detects wether there is a pot on it or not, and disconnects after a few seconds. BTW my like was number 256 :-)
In my country induction cooking is slightly more expensive than gas but it has huge advantage like faaster cooking more precise temperature control & most importantly avoids open flames
Great explanation of the boards. In part 2, could you explain how it puts the correct amount of power into steel/iron pots of different types - otherwise you would never get consistent results from your pot collection :o) Also I believe these can detect pot/no pot so you don't destroy your wristwatch near it when there is no pot and a heater is on. Thanks DGW.
It's more related to the form factor of the appliance, the cooker needs to remains thin. It's easier to draw air vertically under the cooker and blow it horizontally across the horizontal heat sinks.
@@KazemitoHaruhi The inductance increases a little bit but the cost increases a lot more. That's why I think. Basically it's enough since it is mostly for shielding.
@@KazemitoHaruhi cover? what kind of cover. The magnetic field dissipates with standard inverse r-square law, you'd have an option to do nothing if the field just penetrates the cover or look at some fireworks if it absorbs it.
I tried to fix one of those last year. And I came to the same conclusion that the cat did. It's way too complicated for the purpose. The bridge rectifier and IGBTs failed shorted on the big induction side. I had a hard time finding thin ceramic insulator sheet to replace the one I mistakenly thought was silicone compound. I broke the ceramic while removing the spring clamped heat sink. The output board works now but the control board has weird intermittant isssues.
@@rushb9388 @Stanimir, @OnStageLighting,. Duh... Now I'm glad I posted this as "anonymous" That was a stupid remark indeed. I thought this was more of a traditional heating element. Being based on induction, it would probably not heat up if there is not enough metal to close the induction loop". So: no heat _and_ frying all the electronic components.... bad idea indeed..
I heard it too, and I had to check if it was the Police coming for me! The Police weren't coming for me, so I think he must have stolen a DIODE and the owner's GONE WILD! 😂😂😂
Cooking for years with these. Old enamel pots work. Only disadvantage is, the lowest level is always too much power, tried many, even 14 level fields got no real low power to boil something long time. And the temperature probe mode never worked on any, ever.
You are talking about the countertop units that sell for about 50 dollars? This is a real induction cooktop, the lowest setting can cook so low it barely keeps stuff warm, much better regulation
I've never had a problem getting low enough power. At low power modes, they usually just turn off completely for a few seconds in between. The temperature modes on these are garbage on most of these. You specifically have to research for this before you buy one. For my mom who likes to drink tea, we bought a single-coil countertop unit which you can plug an external thermometer into. That way you can quickly heat water to a controlled temperature, just put it into the water.
Hey diody which tranformer core do I use for my dual voltage boost converter? Transformer with a air gap or whitout air gap. I will be using a normal boost converter ic and gonna replace the inductor with my transformer with 1:1 ratio pls reply
Air gap is used in transformers inside flyback converters, to reduce magnetic permeability (and so "delay" saturation threshold) In more "conventional" converters it not useful
@@DuroLabs85 If you replace the inductor in a boost converter with a transformer, it becomes a different circuit. It is no longer a boost converter. If this is the only change, it becomes a Flyback converter. So look for info on those. Diode has talked about them in many videos.
Very interesting, thanks for the reverse engineering and explanation! It is nicer and simpler (those two things go together!) than I expected. Though I suppose there is a lot of complexity in the software controlling the thing. I have an induction cooker and ever since I got it I've been wondering what its like inside. They are really nice devices :)
I wonder can if I can connect this to a single phase with only a 20 amp fuse and 230 volt? That’s about 4.6 kW.. should work if i only use two plates at a time🤔
I suppose it detects when only single phase is used and lowers the total power. Otherwise it could not be approved to be used on standard European 16A circuits.
18:56 = the CT used for current sense is on the high frequency path (sensing coil current), but the CT looks looks mains sensing CT. How is it working?
It modulates the current it sends into the coils and thus also the current drawn from the mains. If the current is made to be in proportion to the mains voltage, i.e. sinusoidally modulated, it will appear to be like a resistive load on the mains with a 'good' power factor. How does it modulate it? Hopefully there will be a part 2 with waveforms.
Judging by the controls, this was a LOT nicer than my induction hob which is pretty cheap and basic. Sadly, the glass on mine got cracked and I was unable to find a replacement or another solution so I now only use 2 of the rings. Still, at least I now have donor rings if one of them breaks... :-)
I presume the relays that direct extra power to the other circuit are what make the 'boost' happen which you use when you want a pan full of water to get to boiling point in no time at all.
Awesome video! You should test it :D I think it will not work due to the melted display though, if it's melted it is probably caused by some component failure.
The display probably melted because the glass got too hot and the display was too close. Maybe somebody slided a hot pot from the coil area to the display area.
I've always wanted to see inside these, and this is a perfect teardown for my interests, hahah. Love the walkthrough, explanation, and analyses you do!
You are absolutely right, it is best evaluation. If we know the basics of electronics equipment, then it becomes very easy to repair
Yes. Please power it and make some measurements of the waveforms. Great video!
I did all quasi resonant measure ment on a ikea induction hob kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/general-electronics/hacking-ikea-2kw-induction-hob/
He's not even asking if we want video with measurements and experiments, because he know we want :D
You've done a huge amount of work in reverse engineering this, well done.
I'm a service repairman for GE Appliances in The United States. I replace these board from time to time. Most of the time the visible failures for these boards are the capacitors. Our induction coils has a glass wool sheet insulation covering them.
I’ve been looking for a new video from you. Very glad to see it!
I spend so much time in my lab and doing electronics work and this year has been really shitty and stressful. But your videos, the way you approach electronics with so much excitement… And your cat… Help with my stress. Thank you for your videos
This is art. Can't believe this video was sitting here for 3 months before I even noticed it.
This is fantastic, i have been considering buying a broken induction cooker for a while, just to see how it works, so this video and the next one, couldn't be timed better :)
Fantastic and superb informative presentation to know about induction heater. Best explanation
Thank you Dan. A fantastic set of videos. Fixed my NEFF HobT36FB41X0G (virtually the same as your hob but with additional relay switching).Testing with two temperature sensors swapped seemed to generate a recalibration and removed the fault.
when you called the molten 7 segment LED nice! i think that was the 1st time you called something that was damaged NICE! instead of DODGY!! P.S. that was awesome to see inside one of those.... thank'x a lot, And THANK'S TO THE GUY WHO SENT IT IN... NICE ONE DUDE!!!!
Often you can tap a boost button. Than only one coil can work. But with more power.
Yep, when I had an Induction range I use to do that to boil water. Man ohh man was it fast. Way faster then any gas range I've ever seen.
Diode you are amazing!! I wish I knew half as much electronics as you!!! Fantastic !
You'r italian accent is probably one of the best ones i've heard on youtube
his accent is outside this world😂 and exactly why i stayed till the end
I've seen guts of / repaired several induction hobs from european brands; AEG, Electrolux, Bosch, Whirlpool .. and really, I could swear blind there is only one factory designing and producing these here in europe. This unit our artist has got hold of makes no exception :)
And hey @DiodeGoneWild , thanks for the informative video - again. NOT dodgy stuff indeed ;)
What ones would you recommend for reliability? I see this one has high quality components
@@sioux22 Well, european brands seem to be much alike. I think most of them are at same level regarding to durability.
Of course induction hobs are rather challenging environments for components: high voltages combined with high currents are known stress factor for semiconductors. Luckily they seem to get better all the time.
So, if buying some of the (european) known brands like Siemens, AEG, Miele etc., I would select by weighing usability, not the internals 😊
My god how i love your channel and the way you talk keep up the good work brother stay safe always. thank you again for a great video.
Dam....... this induction board has some serious amount of power
Its damn.
@@AbhishekThakur-wl1pl damn... Wrong spelling
I have not seen the data of this but normally they are around 7.5 KW with all the coils on at maximum, but I have also seen 9 KW!
It should be added that it is difficult to use all four inductors at full power, because normally it goes to about half, apart from when you have to boil the water for pasta (here in Italy the main food in a meal) where you start full power to a boil and then drop to half to keep it boiling so a salesman told me, hope he wasn't lying in hopes of selling
@@zolatanaffa87 I only use full power on my induction cooker for boiling water; it's too hot to cook on.
@@georgehelliar Good! Confirming my thinking, then.
You're correct, that extra relay around 14:00 temporarily provides a power boost to a coil for boiling water seriously quickly. It automatically cuts out after a few minutes.
I have the exact same power boards in my Bosch; I had to replace them after a big voltage surge on the grid. The power company paid, but took the old boards as proof. I kept the massive heat sinks thoigh
Thanks. I just bought an Electrolux Induction cooker, and the input connector looks exaclty the same.
Again a cool walkthrough to an unknown circuit. Well done.Thank you
Thank you Diode! Another video, great production lately!
I've been looking for a teardown of an induction cooker but couldn't find any, now this pops up in my recommended from my favorite RUclipsr.... youtube was hiding it from me!!
This circuit looks very similar to your SSTC driver. I wonder if it would be possible to modify or replace the control circuitry and drive a Tesla coil with it.
You can, its just like a CW SSTC, runs on the mains Line sine wave kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/general-electronics/hacking-ikea-2kw-induction-hob/
If nothing else, it has loads of parts that you could use .
Or it's a device that will torture other electronic devices for fun :-D
Very interesting, thanks. You clearly know your stuff.
And your accent is quite something to behold too. :-)
I see you have a website full of good stuff too.
Does anyone else realize that this man is like he is singing all his words.
Slant front heatsinks.
So stylish.
Thank you DGW for your effort that you explain everything to us so precisely, often with a schematic! And a big KISS to your sweet CAT 😙 😽Thanks also to Marcel from Germany for this interesting product❗️❗️❗️ 👏👏😊
Excellent knowledge and patiently exploring the circuit.
So much to go wrong. Very, very interesting.
Yes power it on and make some measurements. I believe the thing in the middle of the coil is not a temperature sensor but most likely a pot presence sensor. If i am wrong correct me.
Yes, if you have a baggie it will call the po po.
No I think it is a temperature sensor. It is measuring the HF current to sense if a pot is present, so the coil itself is the sensor.
These induction stoves often have a temperature controlled mode in addition to the constant power modes.
Plus they can sense if the coil is overheating with it, which can happen if someone leaves an empty pan on it or similar. It will heat up to hundreds of degrees which eventually gets through the glass and insulation to the coil.
@@Basement-Science Basically you mean this is like one of those wireless charger that make pulses of signal to detect phone presence but this one is for cooking.
Looking forward
Good video. I'm a big fan of induction cookers.
What brand is this induction cooker? The components are top-quality
That's a Neff induction cooker. I got the same one in my kitchen. Easily recognisable by its magnetic control puck.
And by the Neff logo in the bottom left corner (0:43) ;)
I now see where the high ticket price comes from, I think I will keep with ceramic hobs which also are very easy to keep clean.
Well, you can just put a piece of newspaper on top of an induction hob and then it never needs cleaning... ;-)
@@OnStageLighting Handy tip there.
The video I have waited for
Fantastic, thank you so much for this in-depth overview!
power! Either it goes boom or it works and you can analyze it.
I wonder if you could make one that just connects the coils across the mains, or maybe with just a triac
I'm looking at those driver boards and coils and thinking, could they be primary of a Tesla coil?
probably yes, but you'd have to design your own control circuitry for it.
Its too low resonant frequency for a coil of 2kW size, it would be a huge secondary coil to a small input power.
Also,it wouldnt be an original Tesla coil.The primary has ferrite cores.
@@mernok2001 yeah, kind of removed the air core concept that Is a Tesla coil
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk I actually tried to use a ferrire rod for a Tesla coil,but it got warm after maybe 30 seconds.Although it was a spark gap Tesla coil with 7 turns on the primary driven with a 7kV neon sign transformer.So 1kV per turn was probably too much and the ferrite rod saturated.Same thing happened when I tried using flyback transformers in spark gap circuits.
I love this video ! Do you have any waveform to go along with the schematics ? I am a Electrical Engineer . Please add more schematics for the different areas of the induction stove .
Sir how to troubleshoot induction on various fault codes.
Sir
Please share your valuable tips, to help out community
Sounds like a problen to a specific model. No expertise, only the documentation will help.
@@timtim8468 Okay dear, but sometimes there is no proper or authentic documentation is available
@@HaseebElectronics You would need to learn a lot about electronics to fix these in general. I dont think anyone can help much otherwise.
The only easy repairs I could think of are broken power components, like broken IGBTs. You can measure if they are short-circuited and replace them with the same type.
@@Basement-Science power related components are easy to troubleshoot and locate the fault
But the situation becomes critical when microcontroller related issues are faced. In that case most of technical staff have no idea, from where to start and which is the probability of failure
@@HaseebElectronics sir, that's why people Don't want to get these things repaired. just replaces control board. I am a regular viewer of ur both English and urdu channel.
sir what is ur opinion on electronics repair on business perspective? repair or just replace?
The microcontrollers are probably all types of protections (overvoltage, etc) and of course for controlling the diaplays on the other board.... and probably even for the temperature protection NTCs. imagine designers, how do they actually be able to design this stuff... they have probably a huge experience... which i hope to have because i love electronics!!
P.S - broken induction cooker boards are very useful because you can desolder all this components that can be useful (Full bridge, relays, IGBTs, toroids, film capacitors and other stuff)... AND HEATSINKS!
*Or even coils, this litz wire surely make use
Yeah I bought a broken induction cooker years ago for 11€, best money I ever spent ;)
(just the glass was broken)
If you are not using those boards you can always salvage components from it. If I had even one of those boards I will not leave a single resistor on it :P
Yep, power it on.
Thanks for the info
Good information 👍.I was searching your cat and finally it was seen,this seems you love your cat too much.
The ferrite magnets direct the RF onto the other side.
Excellent use of resonant power, freq. changes as load varies, @around 20K or higher hz
Very informational but a bit above my head. I have a very similar Siemens hob. One side started to malfunction and I have been using only the right side, but now the hob won't even turn on. I don't know where to start to find out what needs to be changed. Maybe you could give me some pointers?
Can you try to power a fly back transforma with it?
hmmmmm good idea too
The transformer wont last long haha
This puts out way too much voltage and power for those.
@@Basement-Science just design a propper one
I just wait for the notification that DGW uploaded a new video... You're my fav youtuber ❤️
COOOOOOOOOKERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! Good breakdown of what used to be a Cooooooooooookerrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
Hi diode. Can you give me a hint, what's wrong with my induction cooker. The two right side areas make E6 error. It should mean that only one phase is delivering even when I wired up with two (400V). When I wire up with only one phase (230 V) all four areas Work Well and I get no errors. It's a Witt WIF70QF.
Danny got 50 FPS now? That's very nice! It's like adding "even more salt" to your videos.
Can it power your tesla coil?
Good idea but I think tesla coils have self resonance therefore may be difficult to achieve.
well at least it have 8 igbt salvaged 🤣
@@erroraccount367 If you convince the protection circuits to run, then maybe. A tesla coil will look like there is no pot.
It could also kill itself if it is not designed for so much resonating power.
@@Basement-Science yeah so if resonance happens what is to stop the high power draw. Um oh yeah i think this had a current sensing transformer. I guess that might regulate it . Not completely sure but i guess it could draw to much power in certain situations.
@@Buzzhumma Problem is, it will most likely just turn off when there is too much resonance (and restart after a while), instead of trying to regulate it. Too much resonance will look like there is no pot, so no point trying to run.
It´s just my disturbed mind that it´s thinking that could be fun to mount a Tesla coil secondary (properly tuned of course) above those cookers?
It wouldnt be original Tesla coil because the primary has ferrite cores.
@@mernok2001 of course, and due to the ferrites , the coupling factor to the secondary could be excessive. And the frequency of the cooker it´s probably too low, but was just an idea that came to my mind.
Induction cookers are much more pleasant to use if many power levels (probably determined by duty cycle) are possible. My one-burner cooker has nearly 100 power levels, and that’s unusual. Cheap ones can have as few as 8 levels and unless you’re just boiling water that is annoying. So some complexity could be providing more power levels to the user?
Most are also temperature controlled. I have a stand alone unit that let's me set a temperature for say simmering soup.
what is the brand of this cooker?
Another comment says it’s Neff brand.
If I take the copper wire and changed it with a water cooled copper tubing will it work? I want to make a melting furnace.
Very good explanation. Great video.
This induction cooker manufacturer is clearly Bosch. I can tell it just by looking at control board symbols and the connection terminals - almost all Bosch cookers share them.
Bosch makes a little bit of just about everything, I sell loads of Bosch auto parts at work every day.
That optical rotary is cool.
5:29 it seems optical encoder
Awesome! Now I know why I hear very loud 100 Hz humming whenever my phone buddy with wired handsfree approaches turned on induction stove. I almost thought 100 Hz is the operating frequency of the cooker but that sounded odd. Lack of smoothing is much more plausible explanation.
I don't understand the purpose of bonding the half-bridges together. I would expect they would reconfigure to full bridge, but it is not the case. So basically it just connects the IGBTs in paralel. Is it only to lower that (already pretty low) impedance of turned-on IBGT?
was there any active PFC chip in the board???
Thankyou for making me smarter! 👍🏻would love to see part2 and measurements and even some modifications to the frequency and tank circuit effect on the heating time of water in a pot etc. Is this a zvs driver circuit??
Yes.
The audio and video quality in this is the best on your channel to date!
I always love learning from your videos. I wonder if you could use one of those coils to make a metal detector?
Thanks :) honestly, I had the same thought about the metal detector when seeing the coils. Maybe one day I may try to build one. In the far past, I've built a simple beat frequency detector.
@@DiodeGoneWild I think it would be a fun project. I was actually JUST looking at projects for Arduino controlled DYI metal detectors yesterday.
With enough batteries, it could also function as a portable lock melter! 😂
If you power it up and walk it slowly around a field it might make a good mine detector. Probably better wear some ear protection.
imho these coils are wasted on a metal detector, which works with small signals and must be as light as possible at the tip so as not to tire the finder too much. If mounted in a support with wheels they could be used for very high power appliances, but finding metals at more than 2 meters deep ... then it makes you dig a lot. solong!
@@Rich-on6fe hoping the magnetic field won't trigger the detonator ... I recommend a long, long, loong handle
The capacitors are 350V x 2 in series because the connection diagram shows these things are designed for up to 415V AC input. The company must me reusing the same boards from consumer through industrial induction heater products.
415V are the phase to phase voltage, but you have to use the phase to neutral voltage (240V).
13:30 That sounds like the boost function for sure. There is limits on it. On mine it can only be used with two plates on, one on either "group" of two.
Comparing this to just putting your pot in a wood fire I realize we're in the future.
My induction cooker in my kitchen detects wether there is a pot on it or not, and disconnects after a few seconds.
BTW my like was number 256 :-)
For more efficient and potentially more sustainable cooking, I like my induction hob. As a cook, I miss the gas hob.
In my country induction cooking is slightly more expensive than gas but it has huge advantage like faaster cooking more precise temperature control & most importantly avoids open flames
In our Japanese apartment we had an induction cooker that could boil a large pot of water in like 10 seconds. I can't imagine how beefy that was.
Despite the large power consumption, these devices are quite efficient.
the question is how healthy it is heating water that fast?
@@orange11squares Why would it be unhealthy?
Great explanation of the boards. In part 2, could you explain how it puts the correct amount of power into steel/iron pots of different types - otherwise you would never get consistent results from your pot collection :o) Also I believe these can detect pot/no pot so you don't destroy your wristwatch near it when there is no pot and a heater is on. Thanks DGW.
If you want to salvage the wire from the coils the best way I have found to do it is to use a hot air gun where it is pressed down
6:46 can you tell me what is the advantage of blower instead of fan ?
It's more related to the form factor of the appliance, the cooker needs to remains thin.
It's easier to draw air vertically under the cooker and blow it horizontally across the horizontal heat sinks.
@@BIBIwood can blower produce more pressure then fan if both are same power rated ?
@@omsingharjit I don't know about the pressure but it certainly blow air faster due to the small outlet.
why ferrite core doesn't cover whole back of the coils like wireless charger?
wireless chargers are just transformers.
@@stanimir4197 what happen if cover whole back of the coil?
@@KazemitoHaruhi The inductance increases a little bit but the cost increases a lot more. That's why I think. Basically it's enough since it is mostly for shielding.
@@KazemitoHaruhi cover? what kind of cover. The magnetic field dissipates with standard inverse r-square law, you'd have an option to do nothing if the field just penetrates the cover or look at some fireworks if it absorbs it.
I tried to fix one of those last year. And I came to the same conclusion that the cat did. It's way too complicated for the purpose.
The bridge rectifier and IGBTs failed shorted on the big induction side. I had a hard time finding thin ceramic insulator sheet to replace the one I mistakenly thought was silicone compound. I broke the ceramic while removing the spring clamped heat sink.
The output board works now but the control board has weird intermittant isssues.
Maybe something to convert into a hot plate for SMD soldering?
Great quality video as usual ! Thank you for this great info !
Not sure I'd want to put anything electronic onto something like a giant magnet. :-)
those a horrific idea. any magnetic/ferric material will cook itself
the currents induced in the pcb will explode every semiconductor on it
@@rushb9388 @Stanimir, @OnStageLighting,. Duh... Now I'm glad I posted this as "anonymous"
That was a stupid remark indeed.
I thought this was more of a traditional heating element. Being based on induction, it would probably not heat up if there is not enough metal to close the induction loop".
So: no heat _and_ frying all the electronic components.... bad idea indeed..
"is there a more overcomplicated way to heat your pot?" Hmmm Plasma?
Yes, thre definitely is one : ruclips.net/video/-fDM9Eb16Do/видео.html
4:25 we can hear the police... WHAT DID YOU STEAL DIODEGONEWILD?
I heard it too, and I had to check if it was the Police coming for me! The Police weren't coming for me, so I think he must have stolen a DIODE and the owner's GONE WILD! 😂😂😂
Cooking for years with these. Old enamel pots work. Only disadvantage is, the lowest level is always too much power, tried many, even 14 level fields got no real low power to boil something long time. And the temperature probe mode never worked on any, ever.
You are talking about the countertop units that sell for about 50 dollars? This is a real induction cooktop, the lowest setting can cook so low it barely keeps stuff warm, much better regulation
I've never had a problem getting low enough power. At low power modes, they usually just turn off completely for a few seconds in between.
The temperature modes on these are garbage on most of these. You specifically have to research for this before you buy one.
For my mom who likes to drink tea, we bought a single-coil countertop unit which you can plug an external thermometer into. That way you can quickly heat water to a controlled temperature, just put it into the water.
Can you please make a comparison of this cooker with your half bridge resonant Tesla spark generator?
it would be interesting to know if it can be hooked to solar panels to be used as diversion load to cook or heat water as in 60 to 70 volts dc
Where do you find blueprints?schematiq
Really interesting walkthrough, thank you
I was thinking two days back about opening my induction heater. (then I thought my parents would beat me 😅 for that)
Hey diody which tranformer core do I use for my dual voltage boost converter? Transformer with a air gap or whitout air gap. I will be using a normal boost converter ic and gonna replace the inductor with my transformer with 1:1 ratio pls reply
Air gap is used in transformers inside flyback converters, to reduce magnetic permeability (and so "delay" saturation threshold)
In more "conventional" converters it not useful
@@МихаилЦымбал-д9м OK THANK YOU :)
@@DuroLabs85 If you replace the inductor in a boost converter with a transformer, it becomes a different circuit. It is no longer a boost converter. If this is the only change, it becomes a Flyback converter. So look for info on those. Diode has talked about them in many videos.
@@Basement-Science Thank you :)
Really nice induction cooker
You mean it used to be a really nice induction cooker! 👎😂
@@marcse7en You can still cook on induction cooker when plate upside
@@marcse7en sir
Can I use the induction coils to charge my phone?
absolutely! Also you can have it properly cooked too.
📱💥🔥
Very interesting, thanks for the reverse engineering and explanation! It is nicer and simpler (those two things go together!) than I expected. Though I suppose there is a lot of complexity in the software controlling the thing. I have an induction cooker and ever since I got it I've been wondering what its like inside. They are really nice devices :)
If induction heating works directly through mains then why does some industrial induction heater uses SMPS
I wonder can if I can connect this to a single phase with only a 20 amp fuse and 230 volt? That’s about 4.6 kW.. should work if i only use two plates at a time🤔
Good luck trying to get any money from the insurance company after your house/appartment burned down 😂
I suppose it detects when only single phase is used and lowers the total power. Otherwise it could not be approved to be used on standard European 16A circuits.
hi , is this soft switching or hard switching?
The snubber capacitors are directly connected to the transistors with no series resistors, so I hope it's soft switching (zero voltage switching).
18:56 = the CT used for current sense is on the high frequency path (sensing coil current), but the CT looks looks mains sensing CT. How is it working?
11:55 i found this interesting .
But how it changes PF ?
It modulates the current it sends into the coils and thus also the current drawn from the mains. If the current is made to be in proportion to the mains voltage, i.e. sinusoidally modulated, it will appear to be like a resistive load on the mains with a 'good' power factor.
How does it modulate it? Hopefully there will be a part 2 with waveforms.
Wouldn't a big capacitor make it more capacitive thus reduces the PF?
What frequency it is using?
Judging by the controls, this was a LOT nicer than my induction hob which is pretty cheap and basic. Sadly, the glass on mine got cracked and I was unable to find a replacement or another solution so I now only use 2 of the rings. Still, at least I now have donor rings if one of them breaks... :-)
I presume the relays that direct extra power to the other circuit are what make the 'boost' happen which you use when you want a pan full of water to get to boiling point in no time at all.
@@OnStageLighting also maybe a wok !
Awesome video! You should test it :D I think it will not work due to the melted display though, if it's melted it is probably caused by some component failure.
The display probably melted because the glass got too hot and the display was too close. Maybe somebody slided a hot pot from the coil area to the display area.
@@DiodeGoneWild Yes true, that's likely too.