I've worked with induction heating since 1987. Really nice project. The heating power is quite impressive and has the potential for more. The magnetic flux decreases by the square of the distance to the work. With a tight coil you would couple much better to the output. Of course, the current would still be limited by the power supply and resonant circuit. Commercial coils are filled with sand when winding so that they don't collapse, especially with small diameter coils. Afterward, they are sprayed with Glyptol to provide insulation. Many times they are also lined with a refractory tube, and cast in refractory cement. If not potted, larger bare coils have some type of insulating structural spacers attached parallel to the axis of the coil on the outside to prevent the coil from jumping when energized. Invariably the output coils are water-cooled in all sizes of induction heaters. It's true, you don't want to get bit. Radiofrequency is more than a shock. I once contacted the 650-volt dc buss on a 300KW machine in Yonkers. It knocked me back six feet against a piece of equipment. I was lucky. The most dangerous job I've ever had.
You deserve a standing ovation for providing us a link to your project on your website + for itemizing the contents of this video +listing those contents + adding time-links to the individual contents. You have earned another subscriber, sire. Bravo to your for your clear-minded efforts and lack of confusing waffle.
I got acquainted with induction at a gold caster with gas , induction was a shock to see the speed and localised heat instead of all the heat dissipated in the room. Good job you did.
Nicely done! Speaking on behalf of those of us just venturing into the realm of electronics and induction heating I found your presentation quite informative, logical, linear and very easy to follow! Top notch.
I have build one as well years back. You can increase heating power by making lower diameter coil. You can also try to play with value of capacitor bank - By increasing or decreasing the capacity you change the resonance frequency of the whole circuit. Different materials and thicknesses heats better at a different frequencies
Just discovered your channel looking for induction solder pots. Your channel is gold. The Aussie who said KIWI stands for keen interest without intelligence was sooo wrong. 😂
An old stick welder can make a decent high current power supply. Also, quenching the copper isn't necessary for annealing, air cooling is fine. Both ways work.
@@jcglessner that is a very hard to answer questiom. It depends on the transformer, it depends on the load, it depends on whether or not the magnetic shunt has been removed. Typically, open circuit voltage on a simple ac welder is anywhere between 50 and 120V. Arc voltage hovers around 20~35V
You are the coolest DYI’er out there! You tell what your doing, explain how or where to get parts and or assemblies and then show the detail of the build. Outstanding!
@@JC-11111 save that this is more useful, megawatt pulse lasers aren't exceptionally practical. At least with this, one can do some tempering and hardening of metals.
I suggest a slight design change to improve things: connect one end of the coil to the capacitor farthest from the coil. This will better average current to each capacitor. The capacitor nearest (#1) the coil is handling more than its fair share of current, which is why the solder melted there. The capacitor furthest (#10) from the coil is handling the least current. Like you said, there is hundreds of amps flowing through the traces and will preferentially flow where there is lower resistance. It may not matter at low power but there might be some fireworks at high power. I built one of these using the center-tap variation. It uses a second fixed 12v supply on the driver side to keep the mosfet gates happy. Awesome project. Thanks.
We use an induction heater for welding steel tube at work. Ours runs at 800 volts, is rated for 800 kW, and uses a frequency of about 135 hz. You can increase efficiency, and therefore power, by decreasing the gap between your coil and the heated object. Try it with a piece of steel pipe with a diameter of ½-1" smaller diameter.
From the other side this is one of the poorest design on the entire yt. Path from tank capacitors to work coil is long, MKP capacitors have realy big capacitance change with frequency and voltage accros it, next disadvantage is thin copper connected the all tank cap with coil and especially tinning these paths is a very bad idea due to skin effect. 1400W it is consumption power but i think only due to no filter capacitors on the pcb and using clamp meter - clamp meters are optimal for main 50 or 60 Hz current meter (or DC) but here this is not pesent even on the power connectors.
yeah it was also not powerful enough to be a melt furnace, so what's the point. the parts were not salvaged so that was good, but the power supply was not, so in reality the kit feeling that I could actually get those parts only extended so far.
How exactly is this an exact copy of the comment exactly above, written a full month later, and has more likes and comments than the original by Michael Ford? N why u b stealing other peoples thoughts like that?
I saw many videos on this subject that are just copies with no component list. You on the other hand have given everything needed to build one. My hat is off to you. Thank you so much for your contribution. I can't understand why people take the time to post videos that are just plain lies. They are obviously Sociopath's. What a sad world we live in. They take all that time to make fools out of innocent people that trust them. Thank you for your excellent video.
I used to build RF Induction heaters back in the 80's. We used big tubes back then by Siemens. All the components were hand made, The coils were water cooled, 1.2 KW were the small ones and had some monster ones that were in cabinets equal to server cabinets. Spaulding had used a couple of ours when they had defective grips on their golf clubs and needed to remove them. The machines had fittings on them so different coils could be used to match the projects and the machine had variable current controls and timers.
2:52 To be honest, I like the look of the diode standing up like that, it makes it look artful, many time I wish guys that create one off's boards would purposely do that, That is probably why i have always been a fan of Manhattan-style PCB's
@@patprop74 my experience of mounting diodes like that years ago in a am receiver. Once the leads were shortened and the diodes laid flat the interference went.
Nice project! One of very few high power induction heater videos without lies about the power. I've seen people claiming over 2000W, but the actual power was only 200-300W. This one delivers the advertised power. Thanks!
One suggestion: For the two main high-frequency busses: Instead of filling them with solder, skin some ROMEX (12 or 14AWG solid) make them straight and put two of these next to the capacitor leads on each bus and cover everything with solder. Or better yet, if you can machine two rectangular copper busses with holes for capacitors, do it. For the caps: Search Digi-Key for film capacitors and "high pulse dv/dt" capacitors. These capacitors will carry huge AC currents and their ESR must be as low as possible. ....And NO you may NOT replace two paralled capacitors with one of double capacitance !!!
Could you not simply increase the thickness (4oz) and area of the busses? iirc he said 30Amps should be able to be carried by a thick enough trace, although adding 10ga or 12ga wire should also work with the lack of mechanical robustness, and additional build work.
Amazing project, very well explained. It's a pleasure, once taken the needed time, to realize that still, there is people in YT that present projects AND talk about them knowing what they´re doing and why it's working. Cheers
I know its typical for ppl to argue about soldering but when solging the copper tabs to the coil it helps to heat where u want the solder to go so it can work its way to thier with capilary action.
I am truly impressed by your overall presentation and methods. I picked up your channel a few months back but have never had the chance to drop you a comment. Thank you sincerely for sharing your knowledge as you have definitely cleared up many doubts I had in my mind that were preventing me from getting better. Good luck with your studies and keep up the good work. From Texas USA
If you need thicker tracings, I would recommend adding solid Cu wires, or my favorite is solder wick because leads can be poked through it which hold it in place and transfer power directly to the copper wick.
You may be able to order the boards made from much thicker copper. 35 micron is kind of standard but 140 micron is pretty widely available also, as long as you don't need fine features. Otherwise, yeah, soldering solid copper wires will also do the trick.
You could also just make the traces wider. There's tons of unused board space there, and really no reason you couldn't make those traces 2 to 3 times the size they currently are.. You could also put the traces on both sides of the board (with a good number of vias connecting them along the way), basically doubling the amount of copper that way as well.
@@cezarcatalin1406 But it will reach equilibrium where resistance dissipates the current so it cannot rise further. It won't be carrying 100s of amp for sure.
The first thing the that came to mind during your assembly... don't cut off the cap leads, bend them over as extra current members. I've soldered paperclips to make higher current traces. (I don't always have a spool of 8AWG wire sitting around.)
I like your quicky power supply. I bought a transformer by error for my bench mill but didn't need it because I purchase a 120V single phase input. I also saved a verac when they closed the building down and move us from Illinois to North Carolina. I package power electronics so was absolutely going to solder copper to the power input and output traces.
This is a beautiful video, very pedagogic and nicely presented. I did forsee the lack of powermanagement in the printed tracks. Solder is not a very good electric leader, so I thought, this is going to melt. In my own induction heater , I solder a cupper track on the printed board to cope with the rising amps :-))
great stuff, nicely done. i'm too lazy to read all of the comments, so sorry if this has been said before: to improve the current carrying potential of your pcb just make the traces wider, you have a LOT of space left and at those voltages arcing won't be a problem. also, never use solder to strengthen your traces, solder has a miserably low conductance, just slightly above a tenth of that of copper. your last tip, soldering wire to the traces, is better, but i'd rather widen the traces and/or get a 70µ copper pcb.
That all depends on whether you're dealing with a ferrous or a non-ferrous metal. The end result of thermal cycling is a desired crystal structure in the metal. If you want hard copper either work the metal or toss it into a 350F oven for an hour and turn off the oven with the metal inside. If you want soft copper heat it the same way an toss it into a bucket of cold water.
Quenching in water has little effect on the final product as the high temperature is what allows the crystals to reform, however quenching it is just faster and can make the outside look nicer. Iron can be work-hardened as well and quenching will have little effect on the heated iron just as copper. Steel WILL harden as it is the rearrangement of the carbon atoms that occurs at higher temperatures that give steel it's high hardness, which obviously if cooled fast enough (tempering), won't have time to go back to their original places, leaving the material in a highly stressed and brittle state, which is essentially what makes a material hard
@@Jakob6174 "if cooled fast enough (tempering)" - uh no, that's the hardening/quenching you're thinking about. Tempering is reducing the stress in the material which, when it comes to steel, is achieved by heating it up to a low , non-glowing heat and maintaining it there for a while giving the carbon atoms enough time and energy to get into a "more comfortable" position, but still kinda stuck in the iron atom lattice. On a macro level this gets us a compromise between hardness and toughness which is desirable for most applications like knives, tools and springs. I'll add this as well: there aren't any other common alloys that can be hardened through heat treatment (maybe some aluminium alloys), but nearly all of them can be work hardened, as that is just a function of the crystal grains elongating while you're deforming the metal until they have nowhere else to move. Moving it beyond that point will cause a break, but the force required to break it is usually much higher than what it previously took to bend it, hence the hardening. Heating it up after work hardening gives it a change to recrystalize so it can be deformed further without breaking, which is also why forging works.
Tip: At 9:59, you want to aim the flame at the center of the bolt thingy you are trying to attach to the copper tube. Way you did it just takes longer but the solder flows to the hottest area through capillary action. So it would be faster to heat it up in the middle of that bolt thingy you trying to attach.
Nice layout but ideally the mosfet should not heat up much and the mass majority of the currant should go within the coil and the capacitor bank. I have made quite a few ZVS and basically you can optimize it by 1. change gate charge resistance until mosfet stays cool, and 2. add capacitors until the frequency reaches close to audible range. I would increase the coil count to maybe 10 turns for 48v input and double the capacitor bank. If the mosfets are too warm, upgrade low R-DS mosfets and or decrease gate drive resistance.
With changes to the circuit board and the coil, you could apply the power from the MOSFETs directly to the ends of the coil. By extending length of the copper used in the coil, the straight portions could be lengthened, You could them use multiple terminals per side on the coil to not only have multiple points on contact between the PCB traces but also extend those traces for the capacitors to the board edge. Since the drain is connected to the connected to the heat sink anyway it does not matter if the heat sink inadvertently touches the copper. Having three terminals would allow the power to be sent through the copper pipe as well as the traces and if the traces extend to the edge they are wider and the current will have more paths to travel in the trace so heat dissipation should also be spread. Plus you can do that on both sides of the board. and also use thinker (not just wider) copper traces.
I just discovered your channel. Nice build!. I do have one suggestion, though. As a relative newcomer to electronics, I'd have found it very useful if you had explained some of the theory behind how this works. Not necessarily down to the level of the equations, but explaining the basic principles: what you're doing with all those capacitors and the two inductors, what the mosfets are for, and so on. Or maybe you have that in a separate video that I missed.
I think if you make the connection of the coil in the center of the PCB you reduce the current running in the traces. At the end of the trace you have the max current running, in the center it comes from left and right and therefore the maximum current in particular part of the trace is less.
My company uses industrial induction heaters that dump +300 and -300 VAC (after rectifying to DC of course) into coils that are a third the size of yours to heat brass and copper for silver soldering. It takes an impressive amount of energy, and the coils are liquid cooled.
Unexpected find in my feed. Thanks for posting. Great attention to detail. Given the usefulness of induction heating for mechanics removing seized rusted bolts, this should be a common tool.
To heat the Al's and Cu's, to the point of melting, connect a substantial conductor each of the bar, creating a 1 pass closed circuit. Use at least 25mmsq flexible strand copper cable. FFS, use proper crimp lugs and not some bodge business. Nice design and fabrication there. Years ago when I was an apprentice a task was to custom manufacture furnace coils for a well known Cu Co here in Australia. The Cu tube was rectangular extruded profile around 25 x 30mm with a 12mm bore for coolant circulation. Lots of annealing, former bending, asbestos sheet strip insulation between coils set in zircona/clay paste cement. They were double layer wound with both ends 50mm apart at one end. Electrical, mechanical (they need strong restraint) and plumbing connection was done through a copper block brazed to the coil conductor. I think your coil Cross Sectional Area is too low a mass, to confidently pass reasonable current . Wall thickness on that 3/8 10mm is probably less than 0.9 mm thick. 1/2" DN15 tube would do better. OK for now I guess, until you realise limitations and improvements. You could install a 3-5mm copper rod inside the tube which will increase CSA prior to coil forming.... just needs silver soldering inside both ends of the coil. This will increase coolant flow speed through the coil too, by effectively reducing internal diameter of tube water. Restraint is needed to prevent the coil, from magnetic attraction, forming a closed circuit. Try finding woven glass tube to insulate the coil. I would use plumbing fittings - 3/8 compression olive to 3/8 bsp M screwed - for coolant, mechanical mount and electrical connections of the coil. Coolant connection. The compression fitting can be slightly opened if the tube doesn't slip fit till the end of Cu projects past the screw thread. (they are designed to just straight nipple connect a pipe to screwed fitting, so the tube comes to a stop depth) Tighten outer nut (not yet) and a Cu olive crimps down for watertight seal. Electrical connection. You need to limit heat transfer to PCB. Silver braze (not hopeless soft lead solder) a 16mm sq copper crimp lug to the plumbing fitting. When you silver solder wipe off the excess solder dags that look like bird poop. Locate lug on the body hex area at 90deg to tube axis. Maybe either crimp link type (cable to cable) one end flattened out, or palm lug (cable to bolt connection). Long palm type, if you can get, will provide length to braze and extend to provide a hole to mount both coil ends to a ceramic block for mechanical fixing. If no long palm lugs available just cut some brass or steel strip and silver solder to brass fitting at same time. Copper isn't great for strength there. Don't fold lugs down to align with plumbing tube axis yet. Crimp first! The lug copper will be soft from brazing process distorting crimp barrel. Crimp a 300mm long cable - 16mmsq flex strand copper cable to each coil end. Buy the nice high strand synth rubber double insulated cable that usually has an orange jacket. Cut some copper sheet for a busbar that connects along the entire PCB traces as needed. The components solder to this and not PCB trace on board. It can be soldered to pcb, but it only helps align with minimal mechanical torque strength. This saves the messy 'boost' a low CSA trace with solder. The busbar needs to extend beyond PCB so that the cable can connect to the bar using another crimp lug. Use 25mm sq size, unless 20mm of 3/8 tube has a nice fit for both. Bar goes into the lug barrel with coil cable and crimped. DO NOT try to solder high flex cables. Only crimp correctly... that means correct hex tool... not like a bodgy butcher would in a vice.
Would be cool to redesign this so it can accept three different coils interchangeably. 1 coil for 8mm through 15mm nuts/bolts, one for 17mm through 33mm bolts/nuts, and one coil with extended flexible leads (up to 24" for heating nuts/bolts from 8mm thru 17mm nuts/bolts which are in harder to reach spaces (in an engine compartment of an old rusty car/resto mod)...
Awesome video, I've learned so much! Like…I'm not gonna build that, I'd trip my protection here, but still. Awesome. The pure skill behind this video is breathtaking.
I was fortunate enough to be in the right place at the right time to strip a metallurgical laboratory and its equipment, i have the innards of a Leco corp induction furnace that operates with a 304tl tube, its super clean and simple, wish i could post some pics for you lads
I really like this channel. He is a good teacher who has edgy humor and a lot of craftmanship! This device looks sooooo cool. I also like Frankenstein power supply...it looks so badassy.
You did a great job,well-engineered. I suppose you should create a special high current driven path for that high amount of current, the simplest form is to create multiples through-holes in the path to make it temperature-tolerated and well-ventilated. Thanks for sharing
Best induction heater build I've ever seen. Looks great and I loved your meticulous attention to detail. Very fine work indeed sir. One question though...On the Gerber files, would it be an issue to increase the thickness of the traces, in particular the fat ones you have to tin and add more copper to the traces? I was thinking about building this version, but either ordering the PCB with the thickest traces I could select or adding a copper busbar or long copper braid in addition to the tinning on the fat traces. I don't know if that would make much of a difference, but I like the idea of improving the current-carrying potential. Also, if I may offer a suggestion. I had an induction heater similar to yours a few years back and I used a water pump, silicone tubing, a water reservoir, and a CPU AIO radiator from a retired CPU cooler and attached the tubing to both ends of the copper coil creating a water-cooled induction coil which worked really well. I bet that would help your desoldering problem and avoid overheating the PCB.
Not bad. Also try using it with an air core transformer coil inside, did similar with HF x ray transformer coils and it made incredibly high voltage at far more mA than the coil usually is capable of. Also using a big mosfet to switch the stiff current from the psu guarantees the stiff current pulse to start the oscillation process. ❤ Great work.
Just a note on flame soldering... The flame will draw the solder to it. So the idea is to put your torch right in the middle of the clamp, and hit both sides with the solder and it will draw it inside. Just like a fitting on pipe. Excellent video, BTW.... Well done!
You don't anneal any metal by quenching it in water, you anneal it by letting it slowly cool. The more rapidly you cool it from any temperature, the more hard it becomes. You still annealed it a little because you heated it to such a low temperature, but if you want it to be dead soft you will let it cool as slowly as possible.
When working with copper the process is exactly the opposite to Fe alloys... to anneal it you need to cool it as fast as possible, as shown in the video.
@@ethangreenyt If my highschool teacher said INTEGERS and FRACTIONS with the enthusiasm of the "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!" I would have really enjoyed math class, lol. The accent might be part of it too. It never fails to make me laugh.
Caution: Check the mosfet part #'s in these Chinese heaters. Some use the IRFP064N mosfets which are only rated at 55v, and will accept an input of only 16v. The IRFP260N mosfets can take a ZVS input of 60v. GREAT videos!!! How much trouble do you have with blown mosfets in your work??? I have to stock up!
you can make the traces max size of the board and alleviate the need for wire ... the extra copper pad increases the gauge of the trace essentially .. and works as an heatsink ... and adding a heat sink to the trace itself will ensure it stays soldered ...
I enjoy many things.Humor and electro-mechanical together are like p-nut butter + jelly man.You made it fun to learn.(and I'm 60 yrs. old)Keep up the good work.
I appreciate your video. I can tell you from experience that you don't want to get bitten by the rf of the output coil. I once was working on a commercial level final amplified for a hf transmitter. Accidentally contacted the wrong thing in it and was thrown back about 6 feet into a concrete block wall. Not fun. Made me much more cautious when working with HV HF final output devices for sure. Safety is always the primary concern when building projects of this sort. I like your pc board design, but, the main buss lans on the board could have been a lot wider and possibly topped with a copper sheet lan soldered to the tin lan on the board. This would spread out the heat and also carry a great deal more current. Anyway, a very well constructed design. Thanks again for the video. I find these very interesting and informative. Have a great day!
A great video and your delivery is very easy to understand. The needless music does not help however. We are content to simply watch you work. That's why we clicked in the first place. I don't understand where the thinking that music is such a great idea came from.
Congratulations on the project, very interesting. I would like to know what resource you use on the cad PCB to leave the copper track and protective vernis to fill with solder afterwards?
Nice job, but I have some ideas, in order to make it better: First, you can fold in the middle, some of that enameled wire you used to wind the two coils, in order to make the traces thicker. I saw you did it with some braid, but anyway... You could also make the traces themselves wider also, at the first place, I guess... Second: If you would like to have some safety, in accordance to any different power source you might have to use, you could use some automatic, household circuit breakers. Maybe a couple of them in parallel, if the current of the input exceeds 40 amperes. Sorry for any grammar/syntax mistakes that I might have made, but I am from Greece. What do you think of my ideas?
This is my first visit to your channel / site, and I am exceedingly impressed with your video presentation!! Your very detailed documentation is of the highest quality! I have now subscribed with much excitement 🙂
@@hardikjohri6251 I always wonder who the WEASELS are that don't appreciate how much this man is doing towards basically FREE sharing of his hardwom chops in the electronics realm! So he's selling kit parts, at least you can enjoy the experience of what are often over $1,000.00 USD! At 1/3 the cost a large Chinese company of common electronics that starts with a B have sparse distribution of the actual item in question I've got ABSOLUTELY zero skills to build this item, but I would look forward to paying someone to help me to learn this!
Hey, I am an electronics tech and you did a good job explaining things here. THe buils was simple but you explained the dynamics well. Appreciate what you have done here. :)
I was on board with this project until I seen how absolutely dangerous that power supply is. Even so, bravo, my friend. This is wonderfully stupendous.
I would like to see a walk through of the schematic. Tip: When bending metal tubes fill them with sand and crimp the ends, this will prevent them from 'collapsing' (you got away with it in this case because the bend radius was quite large...)
Hey, very cool experiment, I've made some test too in the past with a homebrew induction heater; let me say that IMHO your heater has some inefficiency you can easily improve : 1) a so raw power supply is not so good even with a huge capacitor -> strong current drawn bring down voltage at a frequency of 100 Hz going down with the average voltage value and that impacts on the power... better an array of switching power supply (but that's not adjustable ...and I didn't try honestly, I only tried with a strong self made linear power supply); 2) a so wide inductor is inefficient if there is no reason for that... maybe you can heat a small screw in 10 seconds, but maybe also you can heat it in 5 seconds with a small diameter coil; 3) a non cooled system (with water pumped into the coil) becomes inefficient in few minutes since copper becomes hot decreasing the performances of the system. Bye.
I've worked with induction heating since 1987. Really nice project. The heating power is quite impressive and has the potential for more. The magnetic flux decreases by the square of the distance to the work. With a tight coil you would couple much better to the output. Of course, the current would still be limited by the power supply and resonant circuit. Commercial coils are filled with sand when winding so that they don't collapse, especially with small diameter coils. Afterward, they are sprayed with Glyptol to provide insulation. Many times they are also lined with a refractory tube, and cast in refractory cement. If not potted, larger bare coils have some type of insulating structural spacers attached parallel to the axis of the coil on the outside to prevent the coil from jumping when energized. Invariably the output coils are water-cooled in all sizes of induction heaters. It's true, you don't want to get bit. Radiofrequency is more than a shock. I once contacted the 650-volt dc buss on a 300KW machine in Yonkers. It knocked me back six feet against a piece of equipment. I was lucky. The most dangerous job I've ever had.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
I think you meant to say the flux is proportional to the distance taken to the fourth power.
Nnnbvmkç mini
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magnetism decreases with the fourth power of the distance, not the square
Not lucky, fortunate.
You deserve a standing ovation for providing us a link to your project on your website + for itemizing the contents of this video +listing those contents + adding time-links to the individual contents. You have earned another subscriber, sire. Bravo to your for your clear-minded efforts and lack of confusing waffle.
>sire
>waffle
lmao are you an npc
ruclips.net/video/6Z9SGtPn0j8/видео.html
You took the words out of my mouth! (I agree, exactly) Thanks for sharing so much detailed info, Schematix
Best and most Original Sponsorship Ad for JLC PCB I've ever seen. It makes me want to watch through it instead of skipping
Real shit! Been lookin erwhere for that home made microwave PCB homie....Don't kno wut it is... But that dude has IT 😂😄😁
I got acquainted with induction at a gold caster with gas , induction was a shock to see the speed and localised heat instead of all the heat dissipated in the room. Good job you did.
Nicely done! Speaking on behalf of those of us just venturing into the realm of electronics and induction heating I found your presentation quite informative, logical, linear and very easy to follow! Top notch.
I have build one as well years back. You can increase heating power by making lower diameter coil. You can also try to play with value of capacitor bank - By increasing or decreasing the capacity you change the resonance frequency of the whole circuit. Different materials and thicknesses heats better at a different frequencies
Just discovered your channel looking for induction solder pots. Your channel is gold. The Aussie who said KIWI stands for keen interest without intelligence was sooo wrong. 😂
An old stick welder can make a decent high current power supply.
Also, quenching the copper isn't necessary for annealing, air cooling is fine. Both ways work.
Do you know the voltage on a stick welder when the transformer is loaded?
@@jcglessner that is a very hard to answer questiom. It depends on the transformer, it depends on the load, it depends on whether or not the magnetic shunt has been removed.
Typically, open circuit voltage on a simple ac welder is anywhere between 50 and 120V. Arc voltage hovers around 20~35V
@@randomelectronicsanddispla1765 I think you just answered why those are not such a good idea.
Quenching only hardens
@@mrgreenswelding2853 You are talking about steel not copper!!!!!!
You are the coolest DYI’er out there! You tell what your doing, explain how or where to get parts and or assemblies and then show the detail of the build. Outstanding!
ruclips.net/video/6Z9SGtPn0j8/видео.html
You haven't seen, Styropyro have you? He builds 3 million Watt, handheld laser shooters and stuff. Makes this look like baby toys.
@@JC-11111 save that this is more useful, megawatt pulse lasers aren't exceptionally practical. At least with this, one can do some tempering and hardening of metals.
I suggest a slight design change to improve things: connect one end of the coil to the capacitor farthest from the coil. This will better average current to each capacitor.
The capacitor nearest (#1) the coil is handling more than its fair share of current, which is why the solder melted there.
The capacitor furthest (#10) from the coil is handling the least current.
Like you said, there is hundreds of amps flowing through the traces and will preferentially flow where there is lower resistance. It may not matter at low power but there might be some fireworks at high power.
I built one of these using the center-tap variation. It uses a second fixed 12v supply on the driver side to keep the mosfet gates happy.
Awesome project. Thanks.
We use an induction heater for welding steel tube at work. Ours runs at 800 volts, is rated for 800 kW, and uses a frequency of about 135 hz.
You can increase efficiency, and therefore power, by decreasing the gap between your coil and the heated object. Try it with a piece of steel pipe with a diameter of ½-1" smaller diameter.
This is the “cleanest” induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
From the other side this is one of the poorest design on the entire yt. Path from tank capacitors to work coil is long, MKP capacitors have realy big capacitance change with frequency and voltage accros it, next disadvantage is thin copper connected the all tank cap with coil and especially tinning these paths is a very bad idea due to skin effect. 1400W it is consumption power but i think only due to no filter capacitors on the pcb and using clamp meter - clamp meters are optimal for main 50 or 60 Hz current meter (or DC) but here this is not pesent even on the power connectors.
yeah it was also not powerful enough to be a melt furnace, so what's the point. the parts were not salvaged so that was good, but the power supply was not, so in reality the kit feeling that I could actually get those parts only extended so far.
How exactly is this an exact copy of the comment exactly above, written a full month later, and has more likes and comments than the original by Michael Ford? N why u b stealing other peoples thoughts like that?
@@jonross377 "Hello, Algo!"
@@jonross377 ""Noooo you can't steal other people's comments on the internet!"
The project is cool and all. But the things I really appreciate are all the little tip and tricks you show as you execute the build.
I saw many videos on this subject that are just copies with no component list. You on the other hand have given everything needed to build one. My hat is off to you. Thank you so much for your contribution. I can't understand why people take the time to post videos that are just plain lies. They are obviously Sociopath's. What a sad world we live in. They take all that time to make fools out of innocent people that trust them.
Thank you for your excellent video.
I used to build RF Induction heaters back in the 80's. We used big tubes back then by Siemens. All the components were hand made, The coils were water cooled, 1.2 KW were the small ones and had some monster ones that were in cabinets equal to server cabinets. Spaulding had used a couple of ours when they had defective grips on their golf clubs and needed to remove them. The machines had fittings on them so different coils could be used to match the projects and the machine had variable current controls and timers.
2:52 To be honest, I like the look of the diode standing up like that, it makes it look artful, many time I wish guys that create one off's boards would purposely do that, That is probably why i have always been a fan of Manhattan-style PCB's
Don't try that artful thing with anything that moves.....
Not recommended in radio receivers. It’s a source of noise.
@@tonydoggett7627 lol Depends if one is trying to make a spark gap radio
@@patprop74 my experience of mounting diodes like that years ago in a am receiver. Once the leads were shortened and the diodes laid flat the interference went.
Nice project! One of very few high power induction heater videos without lies about the power. I've seen people claiming
over 2000W, but the actual power was only 200-300W. This one delivers the advertised power. Thanks!
One suggestion:
For the two main high-frequency busses: Instead of filling them with solder, skin some ROMEX (12 or 14AWG solid) make them straight and put two of these next to the capacitor leads on each bus and cover everything with solder.
Or better yet, if you can machine two rectangular copper busses with holes for capacitors, do it.
For the caps: Search Digi-Key for film capacitors and "high pulse dv/dt" capacitors.
These capacitors will carry huge AC currents and their ESR must be as low as possible.
....And NO you may NOT replace two paralled capacitors with one of double capacitance !!!
Eeek! Why you may not "replace two paralled capacitors with one of double capacitance" ??
Could you not simply increase the thickness (4oz) and area of the busses? iirc he said 30Amps should be able to be carried by a thick enough trace, although adding 10ga or 12ga wire should also work with the lack of mechanical robustness, and additional build work.
Amazing project, very well explained. It's a pleasure, once taken the needed time, to realize that still, there is people in YT that present projects AND talk about them knowing what they´re doing and why it's working. Cheers
Dido👍
I know its typical for ppl to argue about soldering but when solging the copper tabs to the coil it helps to heat where u want the solder to go so it can work its way to thier with capilary action.
I am truly impressed by your overall presentation and methods. I picked up your channel a few months back but have never had the chance to drop you a comment. Thank you sincerely for sharing your knowledge as you have definitely cleared up many doubts I had in my mind that were preventing me from getting better. Good luck with your studies and keep up the good work.
From Texas USA
Incredibly easy to follow and understand. You are among my top 5 for this type tutorial and lessons.
If you need thicker tracings, I would recommend adding solid Cu wires, or my favorite is solder wick because leads can be poked through it which hold it in place and transfer power directly to the copper wick.
You may be able to order the boards made from much thicker copper. 35 micron is kind of standard but 140 micron is pretty widely available also, as long as you don't need fine features. Otherwise, yeah, soldering solid copper wires will also do the trick.
You would be amazed at the cost per board when getting the thicker copper compared to the thinner standard stuff.
You could also just make the traces wider. There's tons of unused board space there, and really no reason you couldn't make those traces 2 to 3 times the size they currently are..
You could also put the traces on both sides of the board (with a good number of vias connecting them along the way), basically doubling the amount of copper that way as well.
This is the "cleanest" induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
This is the “cleanest” induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
3:35 solder has about 10x resistance of copper, so better re-inforce your track with a couple of lengths of the 1-2.5mm2 copper wire (soldered on)
And also does NOT "carry hundreds of amps" like he said.
R M
Resonance is crazy dude, a self-exciting resonant tank circuit can take a few miliamps but the current in the circuit can reach a few amps.
@John Smith , good to know!
@@cezarcatalin1406 But it will reach equilibrium where resistance dissipates the current so it cannot rise further. It won't be carrying 100s of amp for sure.
ruclips.net/video/6Z9SGtPn0j8/видео.html
The first thing the that came to mind during your assembly... don't cut off the cap leads, bend them over as extra current members. I've soldered paperclips to make higher current traces. (I don't always have a spool of 8AWG wire sitting around.)
Since ancient times, I love your work. Thank you for this wonderful work and excellent presentation, wishing you success and success.
I like your quicky power supply. I bought a transformer by error for my bench mill but didn't need it because I purchase a 120V single phase input. I also saved a verac when they closed the building down and move us from Illinois to North Carolina. I package power electronics so was absolutely going to solder copper to the power input and output traces.
Just fyi, when annealing the copper tubing it is best to let it cool down slowly and not to quench it quickly as shown.
It doesn't matter. I'm a commercial reloading brass processor and I've designed and built annealing machines. Quench or not, it anneals either way.
Thaught I had it wrong for fifty years for a moment 😊 thanks Richard
I thought it was super weird he was trying to reduce the hardness/brittleness by quenching ! That's basically what you do to increase hardness.
@@ironfront9573 only for steel/ferrous. You can quench brass it doesn't matter
I really like the pinching heatsink. Way easier to attach semi conductor with just a screwdriver. Nice to know this trick Schematix.
This is a beautiful video, very pedagogic and nicely presented. I did forsee the lack of powermanagement in the printed tracks. Solder is not a very good electric leader, so I thought, this is going to melt. In my own induction heater , I solder a cupper track on the printed board to cope with the rising amps :-))
great stuff, nicely done. i'm too lazy to read all of the comments, so sorry if this has been said before: to improve the current carrying potential of your pcb just make the traces wider, you have a LOT of space left and at those voltages arcing won't be a problem. also, never use solder to strengthen your traces, solder has a miserably low conductance, just slightly above a tenth of that of copper. your last tip, soldering wire to the traces, is better, but i'd rather widen the traces and/or get a 70µ copper pcb.
prove me wrong but from a smiths point of view, annealing is heating themetal and let it cool *slowly* down to room temperature :P
That all depends on whether you're dealing with a ferrous or a non-ferrous metal. The end result of thermal cycling is a desired crystal structure in the metal. If you want hard copper either work the metal or toss it into a 350F oven for an hour and turn off the oven with the metal inside. If you want soft copper heat it the same way an toss it into a bucket of cold water.
@@artjoly6348 I agree:-))
Quenching in water has little effect on the final product as the high temperature is what allows the crystals to reform, however quenching it is just faster and can make the outside look nicer. Iron can be work-hardened as well and quenching will have little effect on the heated iron just as copper. Steel WILL harden as it is the rearrangement of the carbon atoms that occurs at higher temperatures that give steel it's high hardness, which obviously if cooled fast enough (tempering), won't have time to go back to their original places, leaving the material in a highly stressed and brittle state, which is essentially what makes a material hard
@@Jakob6174 "if cooled fast enough (tempering)" - uh no, that's the hardening/quenching you're thinking about. Tempering is reducing the stress in the material which, when it comes to steel, is achieved by heating it up to a low , non-glowing heat and maintaining it there for a while giving the carbon atoms enough time and energy to get into a "more comfortable" position, but still kinda stuck in the iron atom lattice. On a macro level this gets us a compromise between hardness and toughness which is desirable for most applications like knives, tools and springs.
I'll add this as well: there aren't any other common alloys that can be hardened through heat treatment (maybe some aluminium alloys), but nearly all of them can be work hardened, as that is just a function of the crystal grains elongating while you're deforming the metal until they have nowhere else to move. Moving it beyond that point will cause a break, but the force required to break it is usually much higher than what it previously took to bend it, hence the hardening. Heating it up after work hardening gives it a change to recrystalize so it can be deformed further without breaking, which is also why forging works.
Correct but copper,gold and silver work differently from carbon based alloys
Tip: At 9:59, you want to aim the flame at the center of the bolt thingy you are trying to attach to the copper tube. Way you did it just takes longer but the solder flows to the hottest area through capillary action. So it would be faster to heat it up in the middle of that bolt thingy you trying to attach.
Some of the concepts you presented here helped solidify my solutions for other projects I'm working on.
Many thanks
Can this be used for water heaters?
ruclips.net/video/6Z9SGtPn0j8/видео.html
I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw him drilling into wood. Genius!
Due to such people we are living in this modern era and enjoying easy and cosy life. Thanks man.. 👍
Nice layout but ideally the mosfet should not heat up much and the mass majority of the currant should go within the coil and the capacitor bank. I have made quite a few ZVS and basically you can optimize it by 1. change gate charge resistance until mosfet stays cool, and 2. add capacitors until the frequency reaches close to audible range. I would increase the coil count to maybe 10 turns for 48v input and double the capacitor bank. If the mosfets are too warm, upgrade low R-DS mosfets and or decrease gate drive resistance.
How can you increase the frequency to about 400khz?
With changes to the circuit board and the coil, you could apply the power from the MOSFETs directly to the ends of the coil. By extending length of the copper used in the coil, the straight portions could be lengthened, You could them use multiple terminals per side on the coil to not only have multiple points on contact between the PCB traces but also extend those traces for the capacitors to the board edge. Since the drain is connected to the connected to the heat sink anyway it does not matter if the heat sink inadvertently touches the copper. Having three terminals would allow the power to be sent through the copper pipe as well as the traces and if the traces extend to the edge they are wider and the current will have more paths to travel in the trace so heat dissipation should also be spread. Plus you can do that on both sides of the board. and also use thinker (not just wider) copper traces.
I just discovered your channel. Nice build!. I do have one suggestion, though. As a relative newcomer to electronics, I'd have found it very useful if you had explained some of the theory behind how this works. Not necessarily down to the level of the equations, but explaining the basic principles: what you're doing with all those capacitors and the two inductors, what the mosfets are for, and so on. Or maybe you have that in a separate video that I missed.
👍
I think if you make the connection of the coil in the center of the PCB you reduce the current running in the traces. At the end of the trace you have the max current running, in the center it comes from left and right and therefore the maximum current in particular part of the trace is less.
I love how it looks exactly like a regular induction heater module except it's 100x the size
My company uses industrial induction heaters that dump +300 and -300 VAC (after rectifying to DC of course) into coils that are a third the size of yours to heat brass and copper for silver soldering. It takes an impressive amount of energy, and the coils are liquid cooled.
12:01- ElectroBOOM!!!
Obviously it's him...
😂🤣😂 thanks I was wondering lol
Indeed
Literally any time I here those 3 words
kanka burda 2 türk bi biz varız!
Can't be: the hair is different.
Unexpected find in my feed. Thanks for posting. Great attention to detail.
Given the usefulness of induction heating for mechanics removing seized rusted bolts, this should be a common tool.
This video was great but needed more Echo and gain for whenever you said "Full Bridge Rectifier". only complaint :P Great video Amon :D
True! I'll have to up my editing skillz ;)
@@Schematix gain added during editing only amplifies all the noise along with the poor vocals.
To heat the Al's and Cu's, to the point of melting, connect a substantial conductor each of the bar, creating a 1 pass closed circuit. Use at least 25mmsq flexible strand copper cable. FFS, use proper crimp lugs and not some bodge business.
Nice design and fabrication there. Years ago when I was an apprentice a task was to custom manufacture furnace coils for a well known Cu Co here in Australia. The Cu tube was rectangular extruded profile around 25 x 30mm with a 12mm bore for coolant circulation. Lots of annealing, former bending, asbestos sheet strip insulation between coils set in zircona/clay paste cement. They were double layer wound with both ends 50mm apart at one end. Electrical, mechanical (they need strong restraint) and plumbing connection was done through a copper block brazed to the coil conductor.
I think your coil Cross Sectional Area is too low a mass, to confidently pass reasonable current . Wall thickness on that 3/8 10mm is probably less than 0.9 mm thick. 1/2" DN15 tube would do better. OK for now I guess, until you realise limitations and improvements.
You could install a 3-5mm copper rod inside the tube which will increase CSA prior to coil forming.... just needs silver soldering inside both ends of the coil. This will increase coolant flow speed through the coil too, by effectively reducing internal diameter of tube water.
Restraint is needed to prevent the coil, from magnetic attraction, forming a closed circuit.
Try finding woven glass tube to insulate the coil.
I would use plumbing fittings - 3/8 compression olive to 3/8 bsp M screwed - for coolant, mechanical mount and electrical connections of the coil.
Coolant connection. The compression fitting can be slightly opened if the tube doesn't slip fit till the end of Cu projects past the screw thread. (they are designed to just straight nipple connect a pipe to screwed fitting, so the tube comes to a stop depth) Tighten outer nut (not yet) and a Cu olive crimps down for watertight seal.
Electrical connection. You need to limit heat transfer to PCB. Silver braze (not hopeless soft lead solder) a 16mm sq copper crimp lug to the plumbing fitting. When you silver solder wipe off the excess solder dags that look like bird poop. Locate lug on the body hex area at 90deg to tube axis. Maybe either crimp link type (cable to cable) one end flattened out, or palm lug (cable to bolt connection). Long palm type, if you can get, will provide length to braze and extend to provide a hole to mount both coil ends to a ceramic block for mechanical fixing. If no long palm lugs available just cut some brass or steel strip and silver solder to brass fitting at same time. Copper isn't great for strength there. Don't fold lugs down to align with plumbing tube axis yet. Crimp first! The lug copper will be soft from brazing process distorting crimp barrel.
Crimp a 300mm long cable - 16mmsq flex strand copper cable to each coil end. Buy the nice high strand synth rubber double insulated cable that usually has an orange jacket.
Cut some copper sheet for a busbar that connects along the entire PCB traces as needed. The components solder to this and not PCB trace on board. It can be soldered to pcb, but it only helps align with minimal mechanical torque strength. This saves the messy 'boost' a low CSA trace with solder. The busbar needs to extend beyond PCB so that the cable can connect to the bar using another crimp lug. Use 25mm sq size, unless 20mm of 3/8 tube has a nice fit for both. Bar goes into the lug barrel with coil cable and crimped.
DO NOT try to solder high flex cables. Only crimp correctly... that means correct hex tool... not like a bodgy butcher would in a vice.
Would be cool to redesign this so it can accept three different coils interchangeably. 1 coil for 8mm through 15mm nuts/bolts, one for 17mm through 33mm bolts/nuts, and one coil with extended flexible leads (up to 24" for heating nuts/bolts from 8mm thru 17mm nuts/bolts which are in harder to reach spaces (in an engine compartment of an old rusty car/resto mod)...
Awesome video, I've learned so much! Like…I'm not gonna build that, I'd trip my protection here, but still. Awesome.
The pure skill behind this video is breathtaking.
This man deserve more subscribers
ruclips.net/video/6Z9SGtPn0j8/видео.html
Il mérite surtout d'aller prendre des cours avant de conseiller les gens
@@jacquylenoir9097 I don't understand what you are saying say in English
I was fortunate enough to be in the right place at the right time to strip a metallurgical laboratory and its equipment, i have the innards of a Leco corp induction furnace that operates with a 304tl tube, its super clean and simple, wish i could post some pics for you lads
Don’t quench the copper…that will harden it again. Heat and let cool slowly.
Wrong, it is the correct way to anneal copper.
Woldengmasinloken
I really like this channel. He is a good teacher who has edgy humor and a lot of craftmanship! This device looks sooooo cool. I also like Frankenstein power supply...it looks so badassy.
Great video. Love how you explain mistakes so we can also learn from them.
You did a great job,well-engineered. I suppose you should create a special high current driven path for that high amount of current, the simplest form is to create multiples through-holes in the path to make it temperature-tolerated and well-ventilated. Thanks for sharing
Best induction heater build I've ever seen. Looks great and I loved your meticulous attention to detail. Very fine work indeed sir. One question though...On the Gerber files, would it be an issue to increase the thickness of the traces, in particular the fat ones you have to tin and add more copper to the traces? I was thinking about building this version, but either ordering the PCB with the thickest traces I could select or adding a copper busbar or long copper braid in addition to the tinning on the fat traces. I don't know if that would make much of a difference, but I like the idea of improving the current-carrying potential.
Also, if I may offer a suggestion. I had an induction heater similar to yours a few years back and I used a water pump, silicone tubing, a water reservoir, and a CPU AIO radiator from a retired CPU cooler and attached the tubing to both ends of the copper coil creating a water-cooled induction coil which worked really well. I bet that would help your desoldering problem and avoid overheating the PCB.
Not bad. Also try using it with an air core transformer coil inside, did similar with HF x ray transformer coils and it made incredibly high voltage at far more mA than the coil usually is capable of. Also using a big mosfet to switch the stiff current from the psu guarantees the stiff current pulse to start the oscillation process. ❤ Great work.
just found you! Great. love your creativity and the reference to mehdi :)
Just a note on flame soldering... The flame will draw the solder to it. So the idea is to put your torch right in the middle of the clamp, and hit both sides with the solder and it will draw it inside. Just like a fitting on pipe. Excellent video, BTW.... Well done!
I love your sense of humor .
ض
every PC guy now cringing at the thermal paste application 😂😂 2:08
For an instant I thought you were going to hook it up to to a welding machine there. Nice little machine you made.
ruclips.net/video/6Z9SGtPn0j8/видео.html
You don't anneal any metal by quenching it in water, you anneal it by letting it slowly cool. The more rapidly you cool it from any temperature, the more hard it becomes. You still annealed it a little because you heated it to such a low temperature, but if you want it to be dead soft you will let it cool as slowly as possible.
When working with copper the process is exactly the opposite to Fe alloys... to anneal it you need to cool it as fast as possible, as shown in the video.
I hear Mehdi's Voices when he said *FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER*
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Same as soon as I heard FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER I thought of all the times he said it
That guy is pretty crazy, but he sure does know how to make people remember important vocabulary. If only all teachers were so creative.
Teachers: *start saying stuff like INTEGERS or FRACTIONS
(Not as good as FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER)
@@ethangreenyt If my highschool teacher said INTEGERS and FRACTIONS with the enthusiasm of the "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!" I would have really enjoyed math class, lol.
The accent might be part of it too. It never fails to make me laugh.
Caution: Check the mosfet part #'s in these Chinese heaters. Some use the IRFP064N mosfets which are only rated at 55v, and will accept an input of only 16v. The IRFP260N mosfets can take a ZVS input of 60v.
GREAT videos!!!
How much trouble do you have with blown mosfets in your work??? I have to stock up!
For softening Don't water quench. let cool slow.
I tried it hundreds of times it is better if you cool it in water!!
@@johnhili8664 & zippy. For high carbon steel quenching in water from red heat will harden the metal. But for copper quenching will soften it.
you can make the traces max size of the board and alleviate the need for wire ... the extra copper pad increases the gauge of the trace essentially .. and works as an heatsink ... and adding a heat sink to the trace itself will ensure it stays soldered ...
12:02 no no no it's " FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER "
rektifier*
Wreckdafire
I enjoy many things.Humor and electro-mechanical together are like p-nut butter + jelly man.You made it fun to learn.(and I'm 60 yrs. old)Keep up the good work.
i would rather buy from ANYWHERE other than CHI___na tho.lol
I would have laid the cap legs down and used them as a back bone to hold more solder on those traces.
I appreciate your video. I can tell you from experience that you don't want to get bitten by the rf of the output coil. I once was working on a commercial level final amplified for a hf transmitter. Accidentally contacted the wrong thing in it and was thrown back about 6 feet into a concrete block wall. Not fun. Made me much more cautious when working with HV HF final output devices for sure. Safety is always the primary concern when building projects of this sort. I like your pc board design, but, the main buss lans on the board could have been a lot wider and possibly topped with a copper sheet lan soldered to the tin lan on the board. This would spread out the heat and also carry a great deal more current. Anyway, a very well constructed design. Thanks again for the video. I find these very interesting and informative. Have a great day!
But my microwave doesn't have a PCB button :(
what no PCB setting, scrap it
I really need to find a guy like you in southern California. Your video (and knowledge) just blew me away!.. Just catching on - thank you for sharing👍
electromagetic Induction rules apply here, ie your coil is to big and far away from the objects so far less effective
A great video and your delivery is very easy to understand. The needless music does not help however. We are content to simply watch you work. That's why we clicked in the first place. I don't understand where the thinking that music is such a great idea came from.
Congratulations on the project, very interesting. I would like to know what resource you use on the cad PCB to leave the copper track and protective vernis to fill with solder afterwards?
Just came across this by chance and am impressed by your easy going easy to follow methodology, so I'm in. (From Wales UK)
BUILD ONE BIG ENOUGH TO PASS A STEAK THOUGH AND COOK IT IN LESS THAN 1 MINUTE
proving there is iron in a good steak!
Nice job, but I have some ideas, in order to make it better:
First, you can fold in the middle, some of that enameled wire you used to wind the two coils, in order to make the traces thicker. I saw you did it with some braid, but anyway... You could also make the traces themselves wider also, at the first place, I guess...
Second: If you would like to have some safety, in accordance to any different power source you might have to use, you could use some automatic, household circuit breakers. Maybe a couple of them in parallel, if the current of the input exceeds 40 amperes.
Sorry for any grammar/syntax mistakes that I might have made, but I am from Greece. What do you think of my ideas?
Amigo, pessoas como você é que faz o mundo melhor! PARABÉNS , assistindo do Brasil.
ruclips.net/video/6Z9SGtPn0j8/видео.html
There was lot of useful information from this video. I liked the last part even more, you said the solder melted due to more current. Keep it up man
12:02 the one with a bushy unibrow? (Also has boom in the name)
Must be AvE.
No. It is ElectroBoom
@@ethangreenyt I know, It was BigCliveDotCom.
Building a 1.4kW Induction Heater ....creative and I'm happy to see the video, success for "Schematix ....."....Pekalongan, Central Java, Indonesia OK
Can you mad one for melting gold thanks
You can melt gold but it needs to be in a graphite crucible.
Don't know how I stumbled on this video, I have no clue when it comes to electronics, but I found myself glued to it 😁 Great video 👍
Bahahaha! Nice Electroboom reference lol
This is my first visit to your channel / site, and I am exceedingly impressed with your video presentation!!
Your very detailed documentation is of the highest quality!
I have now subscribed with much excitement 🙂
Those who disliked are those who literally tried to make pcb like that 😂
I like your profile pic. ❤️
@@Sufian95 thanks
He is lord Chhatrapati shivaji maharaj
@@hardikjohri6251 I always wonder who the WEASELS are that don't appreciate how much this man is doing towards basically FREE sharing of his hardwom chops in the electronics realm! So he's selling kit parts, at least you can enjoy the experience of what are often over $1,000.00 USD! At 1/3 the cost a large Chinese company of common electronics that starts with a B have sparse distribution of the actual item in question I've got ABSOLUTELY zero skills to build this item, but I would look forward to paying someone to help me to learn this!
All you have to do to make non-ferrous to Ferris is add an electrical current to it. That way you can control the temperature of the metal inside
اهو 17 نئون انفرافيشن منگل کان وڌيڪ آهي ، جيئن ڪئينٽ جي ڪيس جي شماريات ڏيکاري ٿي. هينئر تائين رجسٽرڊ ٿيل انفيڪشن جو تعداد 6928 وڌي ويو آهي - فعال ڪيسن جو تعداد 1601 آهي.
Hey, I am an electronics tech and you did a good job explaining things here.
THe buils was simple but you explained the dynamics well.
Appreciate what you have done here.
:)
Can't I use a realroid instead of a "toyroid"?
That might make it hard to sit down...
He was just playing with us.
I was on board with this project until I seen how absolutely dangerous that power supply is. Even so, bravo, my friend. This is wonderfully stupendous.
FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!!!!!!
When soldering copper fittings, direct the heat on the opposite side of the fittings from the soldering side, solder flows towards the heat.
@@MichaelBushey propane gets plenty hot enough, I've been a plumber, he's just not an experienced solderer.
@@MichaelBushey for soldering? What kind of solder you using? It made of steel or something? Solder has a very low melting temperature.
ElectroBOOM would be proud of your secret jokes
I would like to see a walk through of the schematic.
Tip: When bending metal tubes fill them with sand and crimp the ends, this will prevent them from 'collapsing' (you got away with it in this case because the bend radius was quite large...)
"toyroid" ? ..that's funny? :)
Did you miss the location tag from New Zealand or would you have been amused nonetheless?
Hey, very cool experiment, I've made some test too in the past with a homebrew induction heater; let me say that IMHO your heater has some inefficiency you can easily improve : 1) a so raw power supply is not so good even with a huge capacitor -> strong current drawn bring down voltage at a frequency of 100 Hz going down with the average voltage value and that impacts on the power... better an array of switching power supply (but that's not adjustable ...and I didn't try honestly, I only tried with a strong self made linear power supply); 2) a so wide inductor is inefficient if there is no reason for that... maybe you can heat a small screw in 10 seconds, but maybe also you can heat it in 5 seconds with a small diameter coil; 3) a non cooled system (with water pumped into the coil) becomes inefficient in few minutes since copper becomes hot decreasing the performances of the system. Bye.