Building a 3kW Induction Heater ll Complete Build Guide
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- Complete build guide to construct your own induction heater at home!
JLCPCB: $2 for 2Layer, 5pcs & $5 for 4Layer, 5pcs: jlcpcb.com/DYE
For components, hardware & more info, visit my website using the link below:
www.schematix.co.nz/forum/how...
Circuit Schematic Download: bit.ly/3dZCDEy
PCB Gerber Files Download: bit.ly/3uM0xJp
0:00 Intro
1:50 JLCPCB Ad
2:35 Build info
2:57 Making 1st set of inductors
4:26 PCB assembly
6:25 Bolstering PCB Traces
10:25 Making the workcoil
14:35 First power up
18:39 Making 2nd set of inductors
21:11 Workcoil design
22:00 Final thoughts
Information provided in this video is for educational purposes only.
If you attempt to recreate/replicate anything you’ve seen in this Or any other video, you’re doing so at your own risk.
Schematix
Good job, I enjoyed the layout, the specs on components, and the very accurate description of the solitary drawback, and the immediate fix, using two cores, and 12 gauge wire. The "scope" shows the exact impact of fixing the core saturation issue. Quite a professional job, I have a 300 amp tig welder in my shop without running water, and found two water cooled motorcycle radiators, Honda, if I remember right, am running a "vibrator pump" circulating water when the welder is on, and it's worked a decade with no problems. I run ten or twenty percent radiator fluid, and have a glass "ball" quart canning jar, with a hole drilled in the bottom and near the top on the side for copper tube epoxied in, for a visual flow indicator and fluid quality view. I leave about half the jar air, for expansion, but haven't ever gotten the water more than warm. Thanks for a great video, good sound electronics, and sound engineering.
Loved this and am going to do it. On a side note, loved the fly checking out your work. It always adds to the video to have an assistant
Awesome! Thank you!
Great to hear you say 'Soldering' as opposed to 'Soddering' ! Cheers mate; keep up the great work...
Nothing wrong with regional dialects having different pronunciations.
LOL - when you pulled out the 2.0 model I audibly cheered I was so happy to see that! This is great, thank you for this video.
A variety of coil sizes matched more closely to the size of the object being heated will greatly increase the temperature of the object
Once worked for a company turning out induction heated rivets and such and our coils were not much more than .25" clearance or less around the part...also our coils had water circulating them for cooling
Johnny, if you are still there...? Could you please elaborate a bit more on what you mean by "coil sizes matched more closely to the size of the object" ? How much margin between the outer edge of an object (assuming it's closely centered in the coil) and the inner edge of the coil would you recommend? Thanks...
@@sempertard
These devices operated at extremely high voltage and the coils were actually copper tubing, round or square, and shaped for the area of the product that needs hardening with water flowing through the tubes constantly. For instance, one item we did a lot of was a rivet slightly larger than a human thumb and the part would go from ice cold steel to bright red hot in a matter of seconds and then quickly removed and dropped into the quench tank
edit: another critical component was the requirement to never ever let the part touch the coil and for that we had heat resistant cloth and a paper-like substance
I would say maybe keep experimenting with coil sizes and if more or less turns in a coil makes a difference and if you want to have a smaller gap then make sure to have something non-conductive between the coil and the part being heated
edit-edit: the gap shown at 21:40 is perfect and to make it even more perfect could be to make a dedicated crucible coil and turn the lower coils such that they maintain that same perfect gap all the way down, making your perfect crucible coil even more perfecter :-)
Also if you can shed enough heat from the copper tube with water you might see higher temps on the crucible
EDIT, EDIT, EDIT: just came back from your channel looking for a video about how the coil worked after hooking up to water and if you've melted anything in the crucible...so, did it work ??
Another way to reduce the temperature of your inductors is to run the tubing of the work-coil through the center of the inductors. It would be best if the cold water side of the work coil went through all inductors. But your very beautiful and symmetrical build might make this difficult unless you run a separate cooling line. You might work this cooling line into a tube that runs up the sides of the capacitors and incorporates the MOSFET’s heat sinks.
I love the attention you give to making your build aesthetically beautiful using symmetry and color. Even if you cover it in a plain bland box, you know how good it looks.
Could just spin the inductors 90 degrees and make come clever bends in the work coil.
* id install the insuctors on the bottom of the pcb because the fets are in the way.
Great heater/melter. Can't wait to see where this one takes you.
Much better with the music by not making it too loud. Great video by the way!
You do good work. People could learn a lot about doing things well regardless of the projects themselves. Thank you for the effort.
Worked for Sundstrand Aerospace in packaging Wild frequency input from a generator mounted to a jet engine gearbox and rectifies it and converts it to 400Hz 3 phase. One in production is a 30KW unit. So I was responsible for coming up with cooling and packaging. One suggestion is to attach that copper tubing to the circuit board for the straight buses for the capacitor bank. Attaching the inductor and semiconductors to the back side with the tubing will make it easier to use the liquid to cool the circuit. Just a thought.
funniest ad I've seen in a long while! You rock.
Omg 😲this is amazing! 👏 I wish I had the tools and money to do the projects you do.
for larger inductor rings check out ham radio supply sources, large rings are used with lower frequency "HF' antennas.
You deserve more subscribers mate thanks for the content. 👍🏻
I would really like to see a video of you using the crucible! What a fantastic idea!!!
I started my own induction heater project, so far you are way ahead of my progress but your project is looking exacly as I want my project to look, amazing, cant wait for the water cooling system, that is goint to be very interesting
You can do it!
I am Nasuh Jaber
I used to work for Vulcan Forge in San Jose we used to forge 2 1/2 inch wrenches for Stanley and Proto in closed die forgings they forged at temperatures 2,300° f , and the induction heaters we used to use were also tuned to the coil, by connections made on the capacitor Bank, and every coil had deionized water going through it, and the billets were fed through it also had two rails liquid-cooled rails going down through the center of the coil, they were all made a stainless steel tubing. The forge had coils that can handle anywhere from a half inch material all the way up to 3 in Plus
You haven't seen hot until you've seen a 400 kW power supply on a 5' dia. chiller-cooled coil, heating a solid graphite billet surrounded by a few hundred pounds of powdered graphite. It was white hot for several hours and took all next day to cool. We were making the first woven carbon-carbon composite rocket nozzles and nose cones at SAI (before it was SAIC) for the Air Farce and NASA. Our technique was used to make the Galileo Jupiter probe's heat shield.
Actually, I've seen hot. In fact, I see hot every day. So have you, and everyone else you or I know. It hangs in the sky. 😉
Excellent video rarely found on this subject
Thanks for the video. Nice work! Just a note on why the temperature of the iron stops climbing. Resistance actually increases with heat but that is not the reason. At these power levels and frequencies the heating depends mostly on the magnetic properties of the workpiece. That is why a non magnetic workpiece does not heat as well. The magnetic workpiece actually becomes non magnetic when it reaches the curie point or curie temperature and does not react with the coil as strongly. For steel this is almost 1400 deg. F. You can mess around with a propane torch, a nail, and a magnet for a demonstration. Nickel and its alloys can do this at lower temperatures. Some magnetic coins are fun to play with (Canadian one dollar loonie).
Can't believe he said resistance decreases with temperature (never heard of superconductors buddy ?). At melting temp of iron its resistance has increased by 100%.
Eddy current losses versus hysteresis losses. Hysteresis losses are typically the bulk of your heating effectiveness with these frequencies and these metals. For metals that don't benefit from hysteresis losses (aka "nonmagnetic"), you generally need higher switching frequencies as well. Take all of this with a grain of salt and confirm yourself, but these are my experiences working in a place that designed these.
Welldone cant wait for the foundry video
Interesting video. I was also thinking about a generator-based induction heater - getting into the 10-15kW range with a 20kVA second-hand genset. Potentially (in the future, after that) getting into higher power than that (Which is completely foreign to me, and will require a whole different set of considerations and learning curves) - but "medium DIY induction furnace" is definately one of the paths my creative endeavours seems to always realign to. I'd also be very interested in (and likely forced to) migrating to PF-corrected supply architectures as well. Subbed.
Really nice job! I love how you explained and showed all the steps. Please make a video where you use the crucible.
Finally an Induction heater build in a language that I can understand
That board layout is absolutely phallic
Using coaxial cable braid is the best for reenforcing copper pcb tracks. Sweat it onto the tracks with a liberal amount of solder. Flexible and easy to work with.
Very interesting project and you are obviously very skilled in electronics. I was drawn to your video by the possibility of using an induction heater for heating some smaller projects in my black smithing work. Firing up my gas forge to do small work is not very efficient. While very informative I want to mention that the steel was no where near a forging temperature. The steel needs to be between 1200- 1300 degrees centigrade to be effectively forged. That is an incandescing yellow heat when viewed in shade. I am confident that you, given your expertise would be able to design an induction circuit to meet the temperature criteria. Again a great video and information thank you for sharing it.
Great project! Thank you - I will be following up.
Love it. Works great
Thanks for this video, very helpful.
Thanks for the great video. It was amazing. well done.
Very cool, great video and detailed instructions. Thank you for making!
Given the equilibrium you mention at #21:05, how do induction furnaces melt iron? Building an induction furnace is what I'd like to do.
Alternatively you can fill the tube with water and freeze it I found it this works better than using sand. Have made heat exchanger coils for condensers for large distillation purposes
Nice project!! I want to see you melting cast iron and bronze using this induction heater
I made a similar induction heater and if you have them, use copper nuts and bolts to cut down on resistance at the joints
I like those clip-on TO-220 heat sinks.
if you use copper brake line to reinforce the traces. you could also use the reinforcemet for watercooling the PCB. possibly.
I was going to recommend just bending the whole work coil to match the trace shape and directly soldering components to it through the PCB, but your idea would be a lot easier...
Thank you, this is fantastic... I am assuming that it heats up to 600-700 deg celcius?
If one was to make the bus bar, would you solder it to the traces or just have it attached at correct points?
around the 21 minute mark you state the internal resistance of the metal decreases with heat - it is actually increasing in resistance.
This can be explained by faradays law of induction. because a constant Bflux is changing, a constant EMF is applied to the metal causing eddy currents. and P = V^2/R. which tells us as resistance increases, P decreases.
AFAIK it has to do with curie temperature
@@ichbineltyb3814 That's right. It's not the electrical resistance that's at issue here. He's heating a FERROUS metal. That means it's highly magnetic and the main heating effect is not from eddy currents but the continuous, rapid reversing of the magnetic field is 'jiggling' the magnetic domains of the metal, causing friction and hence heat. BUT as the metal heats up and passes the Curie point, the magnetic response suddenly drops and that strong heating effect ceases.
Correct i think he just got mixxed up
I'm sure it just a slip of the tongue.
I see, thank you, I will use your inductor oversaturation tips also the frequency, as reference to make similar inductor
Good work ! 👍
Interesting project!
Really cool project. I cant help but see that it resembles the Neo Armstrong Cyclone Jet Armstrong Cannon
Hi thanks for the video, in the first version of the inductor you counter wound the rings. What was the reason for just one continuous winding in this version?
The weak link with these circuits are the resonant capacitors. So many required to obtain the capacitive value and series current capability. Pity those old high power valve transmitter caps are not more common. Capacitors out of the high frequency TiG welders are made by Miller and can take a lot of current. What is really needed are water cooled capacitors. Must try making some.
If i understood the function of this device correctly, the resonance is used to create a high frequency AC to drive the work coil? One could use a microcontroller instead to run the semiconductors at the desired frequency like in an switchmode powersupply and get rid of the coils and capacitors alltogether right? Perhaps only one big cap to smoothen the draw on the supply.
Briliant clean job
Very well documented and laid out video. Have you went ahead with this project anymore and tried melting metal with the crucible? I'm very interested in trying this project myself if it can do this.
You are a very talented person. It was also very entertaining to watch you build it.
@Mikron this video is perfect and you should aim to have a build just like this.
I am a paramedic and have very little knowledge about scratch building any electronics. But I must give credit when due, you are very neat and tidy when you build sir. I wonder if the engineers who built the Apollo rocket systems had to be just as creative, neat, and tidy?
Nice job mate!
another tip - if you own one, pre-heat the pcb and copper wire with a heatgun which helps out when soldering with a undersized iron
Some nice ingenuity employed here
Great video
Very good
Thanks for the free Circuit Schematic. 😊😊
Muito bom amigo, parabéns.
great vid. how hot the water pump into the coil would get. Im looking to build this to heat up water that would be spray on to dry ice to create a low laid fog. Can you spread the turns of the coil to cover a larger area and get a wider hot spot. ?
YOUR THE MAN!!
thank for great info
Great video!
You must have triggered some Kens on another of your videos or else 79 people accidentally pressed the thumbs down button. Seriously, very nice board and very thoughtful design and follow-up to clean your sine. And I am grateful for the doubled toroid trick. When I lived in Houston there was a serious electronics surplus and salvage shop with buckets of fist sized toroids on down with maybe the largest being $10 to $15. I always swore to come back and raid their stock when I started prototyping induction furnaces but sadly I have moved too far away now and they don't do online sales. This was the type of place that used to have salvaged ships radars and teletype machines and copper vapor lasers and on and on. I could spend half a day drooling in the aisles.
I love EPO too moved to out of town but still get over their when I can
And if you need anything just let me know I can just grab it for you when I go I only live out past Katy Mills so it's like a 45 min to 8 hours trip depending on how dumb i10 or West Park are being
Great Job !
Build a shroud around the coil and use the convective heat to pull cool air across the components.
Thanks buddy for the learnings 👍🏻 i have been using a cheap inverter arc welder for a power supply . It would be good to see your adaptation of using one to power your zvs .
What would a 10kw or 20kw look like? Would the scale of the project and power requirements be worth the effort for serious forging and heat treating and larger scale foundry work(3-6 kilo copper)? Is melting steel in a crucible realistic? I’ve seen it in other videos, but they didn’t seem to be taking considerations for several of the variables you’ve discussed. Great video, thanks.
Instead of soldering those big wires to beef up the traces, I'd recommend the following on your next design: don't bus the caps. Each cap should have its own dedicated pair of traces going straight to the big terminals for the induction coil. I would make a roughly round PCB with the induction coil terminals in the center and the caps arranged in a circle around them. Also, I'd spread the cap traces over 4 layers so they can be really wide. Some heat sinking may be required at the terminals.
NICE INSIGHT
Love this stuff
I am waiting for it
PC water cooling parts would be perfect for this project. It's 1/4 inch standard, comes in many sizes and uses standard PC fan sizes.
You could use a sanding disk in a Dremel type tool to keep from having to fight the non-ferrous type metal clogging your file
Just rub the file with CHALK. Completely prevents chips from sticking... try it.
Excellent!!
More Power!!!
good circuit I would like to know if this circuit could be used as a magnetic induction cooker or not?
if you hold somthing with a metal bezel that heats up , it seems like nice heat controll on object
beautiful
what solder tip type did you use there @20:05? I think i have the same handle but I only have solder tips for SMD work on that.
Great Job! Now you just need an oscillator to adjust the skin effect and penetration for different materials, also add liquid cooling to the work coil. 😎😊 Lol should have finished watching the video, water cooling incoming lol.
what about designing soft start for that royer oscillator? that beast create massive inrush!
Nice video thanks.
Brilliant.
For induction heating of non-ferrous metals, can one use a longer coil to increase the magnetic field strength to compensate for the low permeability of the material? I don't anticipate using the same diameter coil as yours though as this would make it rather unwieldy.
I already have 34A 100uH inductors, will these work with your 3kW design?
Can you tell me how people melt metal using induction heating ??? Look forward to see more of your creation.
Keep up the good work
Good evening, sir! Please tell me if it is possible to power your 3000W induction heater from a welding inverter? Thanks for the answer!
Nice tankless water heater!!!
perfect.. thanks
Love this! Is it possible to describe it in terms of Teslas or fractions of Teslas?
I really love this video and want to try building this. I really want to build this in very small coil I want heat a very small pipe on my brass instrument can you advise how I can do this without overheating the pipe just keeping it warm ?
thank you for the video. Can you please answer: what does the frequency of the inductor depend on? how to increase it from 40-50khz to 90?
I LIKE THIS VIDEO, GOOD JOB PRO
with that you can also melt metal in a vacuumed controled area.
Can you share any sources for learning about who these are designed and built? I would like to know how I can design and build my own for a specific size and power use-case.
Great innovation, do you sell complete induction heaters?
Can the power on this induction heater be adjusted (lowered down) in case it is too high for PCB desoldering? If it damages the copper on PCB
Is it worth clear coating the copper pipes for additional safety?
You can get cheap contact thermometers from ali, then you can read from specific points
brother you are very good person
What sort of temps are you getting out of it? doesn't look like it gets hot enough for forging