Thanks for the vids Simon, very well explained, instructive and educational. Looking at my same problem now, I’m feeling that it would be a tad easier if leads of the IGBT to be cut off first before removal and desoldering begins. And, removing and replacing one IGBT at a time and keep the metal holder in place.
@@PowerOn- Hi Simon I recently revisit my same cooktop (IGBT blown again due to my poor workmanship;). This time I’d found out easier way to reinstall the metal clip. Those clips has tiny lip to engage with the groove on heat sink. Just need to position it properly, and press it in with a vice sandwiching just by the heatsink itself (be careful to leave PCB free without force exerted on it during pressing) Even better if you have a pliers wide enough for the clip width.
Hi Simon, great video very informative. Can you please give me some advice as to how you got the clips off from the triac's in the first place, on the board im busy with they are really tight and I dont want to break it. Need to replace 4 of the 8 on the board.
Hi Francois. Yes, you've identified one of the harder parts of this repair. The clips are both difficult to remove and replace. Im sure in the factory they must have a specialist tool. I remember removing the clips by sliding them out from the end of the aluminium heat sink. Gently tapping with a hammer and broad/blunt screwdriver was the technique. Not easy but doable. Refitting is the reverse but a bit more difficult as you have to also lever the clip open as you slide it back into position. Good luck!
Great video. I had exactly the same problem with my GE Profile PHP900DMBB cooktop a couple years ago. The trace on the board was blown. Unfortunately mine didn't have the fuse brackets installed but the board had the mounting points for the fuse brackets (make sure to get the brackets rated for 20amps as the cheap ones are not). The writing on the board even specified a 20A slow blow fuse. That MOSFET clip is probably the hardest part of the job. I'm even impressed that you got it off. In my frustration I cut off all the components on the side of the board figuring that they would be cheap to replace. I was wrong. Each of those MOSFETs was $12. The bridge rectifier in the middle was cheap. I positioned them all with the clips before I soldered them all back into the board and that worked fine. Fortunately I was able to find the exact parts.
Great informative video. I have a Miele currently showing up with an error and havent worked on one of these before, so was good to see in your video the board layoutand what's inside.
Lots of parts sharing between brands. This unit is quite old now but the failure modes are also similar with the igbt's and diodes a primary source of problems.
Great video Simon, even 7 years later :D I concur my Electrolux suffered the same fate and the power generation board is the exact same except I don't have any fuse holders :( I'm repairing mine and will be adding a fuse holder where the in-board fuse failed since there are holes for it.
Great video. Have you had to repeat this for this element or do it for any of the others? I am ordering the new IGBTs and was wondering if I should just go ahead and do all 8 now since my cooktop is part of a slide in range/oven combination. Thank you
No i only changed the failed components. "If it aint broke don't fix it" attitude is at play here😀. As I think I said in the video I think the failure was due to a protective fly back zener diodes not being correctly soldered at the factory being the source of the failure on the 1st place. The cooktop has worked flawlessly since. Thanks for the comment.
A "loud bang" sounds like a MOSFET. I always "enjoy" those loud bangs when I work on SMPS power supplies. It's always a good idea to keep the IGBTs or FETs out of circuit and put a scope on the BASE or GATE and read for clocking, then check the COLLECTOR or DRAIN for a short before replacing them. The CURRENT SENSE resistor is often blown along with the FET so the IC that drives the FET won't be able to detect proper function of the FET even if you replace it, and the IC itself can be blown too. P.S. I've handled MANY FETs and have NEVER "zapped" one with ESD. It's not as big of a risk as you might think.
Hi Rick, lots of good information here, thanks for your reply. Just a note on static electricity and generally on ESD problems. You're experience of never having zapped a device is common. However, what I understand from my studies and also several years of experience at work is that the damage you can do to a device is not to kill it dead but to damage it so it's life is much reduced. You can in effect create 'walking wounded'. By taking simple precautions at home you can minimise this, but at work where we make devices guaranteed to work for 25 years it's a whole different storey of ESD flooring, desks, tools clothing, shoes and humidity control. Honestly, it does my head in sometimes 🤪
Hi Simon, Thanks for the video. I have an Electrolux IC hob EHL7640fok which is a German make with 4 stoves. I guess it's a 2015 model similar to your Teka Induction Hob. The problem is I could not be able to find any screws in the back case that I am unable to open it up to examine its content. I wonder if you have come across such device before or not. Thanks.
Very informative video. Thank you. Have a similar Teka. Can someone please tell me what exactly the F07 error is ? It displays only in the bigger ring.
Nice job. Thermal paste or silicon glue might have helped too, as good thermal contact is critical for the large heat sink to do its thing. Btw What did you do about the blown fuse? :edit: Just spotted the reply below.
Great question but, no I don't know. No marking either. 2 ways to find out. 1 remove a good one and test it, or 2 look up a typical circuit for the igbt on the igbt's data sheet.
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a question for you, what were the specs of the blown Zener Diode you replaced. I have a Kenmore with the same board and searching for it! Thank you
Unfortunately the zener diodes are so small they don't have any marking on them. It is possible to take one out of circuit and apply a voltage to it and see when it stars to conduct (if its in working order of course). Another alternative is to look up in the specification sheet for the mosfet. There may be a reference design inside this document which specs the surrounding components
@@KiwiFrise2573 That sounds like a reasonable value. You probably know this but the diode is there to protect the mosfet from recieving a too high gate voltage ( and a -ve voltage), so making sure the Vgs of the mosfet is not exceded.
Hi Simon, I have a Samsung FTQ307NWGX induction stove. It has blown a fuse, and half of the stove has stopped working (two burners). I replaced the fuse, and it blew the fuse again. Upon close inspection of the boards, I found no damage. What do you think it could be?
While it's difficult to assess, many induction stove problems are due to failure of the igbt's or the large diodes. However, as half of the stove has gone, maybe a short circuit somewhere in the power supply for that side.
Hi Simon, i have the same problems with my miele km 6117. Your video was a realy helpful for finding the problem. It was the IGBT -.-. I already ordered them. But i still need a thermal paste / plates. Do you have any suggestions for me?
From memory there were some green pads already on the existing igbt's I think i reused them but its a few years since i did this repair. Again from memory the igbt's had a metal back so probably requires an electrically insulating layer between the device and the heat sink. Something like this should work fine: au.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-pads/1745691
Hi, thanks for your comment, I should have explained in the video, the insulation tape you note is actually a thermally conductive but electrically insulated sheet. I used this in preference to a thermal paste as the I wanted to ensure the IGBT's were thermally bonded to the aluminium heat sink but the metal back of the IGBT was electrically insulated from the same.
Sweet. Nice to see a person save some serious money by doing the job themselves ....nice to have electronics background. Now if could have only found some repair video for an Electrolux Induction Stove. An "E35" code appeared which shut down the entire cook top. Apparently there is only one board supporting the fault ....but I don't have the expertise to trouble shoot to component level ....but I AM able to replace plug-in boards no different than a useless ...and expensive ...repairman, who does nothing but read the fault code, for $131.25 CDN, once he arrives, then orders the board once paid for and leaves, then comes back with the board, pulls the range out, disassembles the stove top, removes and replaces the board, then reassembles everything, plugs it back in, and assuming it works, leaves.
You can get your boards repaired now, search ebay for my listings ;) If offer a comprehensive induction board service of all brands. Affordably as well I might add.
Hello Simon, First of all, thanks for your video, it is great and very usefull. I've repaired one power PCB like yours, and after repace the transistors and the zener's and put the fusible (20 A), it works. But when I turn on the repaired side it worked in low power < 10. After > 10 the issue got again. The transistors will be damaged again. Do you have any idea what is happening more? regards.
Hi I have the same components (and same fault) in a Miele KM 5753. Do you remember whether you used a slow or normal type fuse in your repair? Excellent video by the way 😀😀😀😀😀👍👍👍👍👍
I can't remember but I'd prefer a slow blow if you have a choice. I usually choose a slow blow in a power circuit, particulary here where the circuit will be exposed to more heat than most curcuits will see. Good luck with your repair.
Nice job. Seems I have the same issue you had. But my induction plate shows E 2 error. Mines a 900 CM 5 burner EGO boards inside. Boards look almost the same as you fixed in your vid. I have same blown circuit board and 2 blown transistor diodes which correlate with inductor that was being used. I though I’d just cut bad transistor diodes out plug a fuse in and use the remaining 4 inductors. Didn’t work. Still gets E2 error Do you think the circuitry would be clever enough to know if 2 transistor diodes were missing or could there have been more damage to the power filter board. It went bang when she blew and tripped a 32 amp circuit breaker.
Hi Simon, I have anothe brand(NOVY) but exact same internal hardware. I HAD E6 on all the hobs, but after change 2 caps on the powerboard (470 microF) the left 2 hobs where working again. The right ones still show E6. I check and verified everithing I could but can't find what is going wrong. When I disconnect all hobs and thempsensors, left (good) gobs give E9 while right still give E6. I absolutly sure it is not the tempsensor because value is same on all 4. Hope you have some tips for me. Thanks in advance
Hi Simon. Thanks for the informative video. I have an electrolux induction range oven with an identical electrical housing as yours. My PCB embedded fuse does no contain any fuse clips but I can solder them on. Can I assume the 20AMP fuse is rated for 250V. Any preference over glass or ceramic? Would a microwave 20a250V ceramic fuse do the trick? Thanks for any help. IAN
Hi Simon I removed the four IGBT's to test using a simple test procedure, (using diode test on digital meter) between the emitter, collector, and gate. Between two IGBT's that were side by side, I got absolutely nothing E-C, and after touching the gate ....no change. Does this suggest the circuitry was completely open? On the other two IGBT's, I got completely shorted on one for both tests (as if probes are touching), and on the last, I got 0.32 reading across E-C for both checks. Any thoughts? As I previously mentioned, I have looked at this board very closely and see no indications of any component failure. Is the component between the IGBT's a diode bridge? Should this be tested? If so, can it be tested in cct? I am thinking about how difficult it would be to remove the clamp. I am shuddering to think of how difficult it is going to be to replace these clamps.
taxicamel Certainty the shorted igbt's have failed and are probably the reason the fuse blew. Now why the igbt blew is a question that i cant answer. The associated large diode needs checking also as its likrly to have gone at the same time.
I did check the center component between the four IGBT's. Assuming it is a diode bridge. I found a procedure to test, on line, testing with bridge connected in the circuit. With diode test position, the readings are: With negative probe on pin one: and pin 2 - 0.53, pin 3 - short, pin 4 0.53 With positive on pin 4: and pin 3 - 0.53, pin 2 - short, pin 1 - 0.53 Is this what should be expected?
Hi, i have a indution hob, that uses the same induction plates as yours. One of the induction hobs simply doesnt detect the pan. IT keeps the Y blinking. Any ideia what could cause this.. thks
Mr. Jowett, Your video is very help full to me. Thanks. On Your video, for each board (4) Is a little transformer. One question for You: On my Electrolux Icon cooktop One of them has: -One side test ~ 1.2 ohm -The other side is open. ( I think is bad ) Give me please a part # for it to order. ( I need to replace it ) even I don't know it's function. Thank You
Hello Again Simon I have researched checking IGBT's while still in the cct. I found one site which suggested how to perform this test, but found none of the IGBT's actually matched the suggested outcomes .....so I will be removing these and testing independently. I am sorry about the previous question about the "failed" board, where the fuse holders are not used. So you simply installed a fuse and everything functioned fine. My board only shows the fuse holders as a graphic. I will install two holders and use only the one fuse. Is this a 20 amp fuse ...and is a fast-blow type? Would you be interested in providing an email? I have taken many photos you might be interested in. I removed the cct brd generator board and found a wire and plug with a what appears to be "load" attached to the end of the wire, under this board. Perhaps some kind of assembly testing cable before closing up the unit(?) I have also done a very close visual throughout this generator board, at every component and found nothing out of the ordinary. Would you say the IGBT's are the weak part of this board? What would you say is the root cause of this failure ....assuming I find one or more IGBT's is bad?
Hi Simon I have rcvd the replacement filter board and found the similar blown trace path beside the other relay to the one you found blown. I could not see this before as it was buried until I removed the elements and took the whole top off. Because it is the "other" relay to what you found, I am assuming it would be the "other" cct brd generator that has caused the failure on the filter board. I am not an electronics expert, but have had exposure to a fair bit of circuitry and only understand electronics ....not to design level. That being said, what did you do with the blown filter board? Did you able to install a 20 amp fuse and "reuse" this board?
taxicamel I can't see another reply but ill try answer your question anyway! From memory the fuse was just a std one. Not slow blow or motor rated. Of course you would want to replace with the same rating as noted on the pcb. NOTE: it's 240VAC here in Australia. If you live in a 110v country the fuse rating will be different.
The graphic on the board shows S12 20A ....which I would assume means 20 amp. This is a stove that is using 230 VAC .....even though our standard outlets are in fact 115 VAC .....so perhaps no difference (?) when it comes to the high-powered appliances (?)
I have problem on Electrolux E36IC75FSS . Your video is the only one that helped me so much. I need to replace ZD (zener diode) You talk in Video. Please tell me the voltage of this zener-diode. At least I need Your suggestion. THANK YOU. 9
Hi Simon. I'm struggling to find out whether Teka induction hobs, specifically IZC 32300 DMS (and/or IZS 34600 DMS, IZ 6420 and other similar) switch on and off (i.e. heat in pulses) at low power setting or heat continuously. Could you tell?
Hi Larry,. I don't know for certain but I'd guess it's a pwm signal that drives the MOSFETs. So to answer your question it is pulsed but at a high frequency. You'd need to get a scope on the gate leg of the MOSFET to see the signal
Very interesting. In which year was built this hob? Does it use the same boards as the current Miele hobs? Which IGBT Transistors were built on? (I have no audio on this PC, if you said it in the video)
The original IGBT Transistor is an IXYS TO-247 ( ISOPLUS-247 ) IXGR32N60CD1 Although there are other equivalents you can use. The hob is about 12 years old now and whilst I can't say for certain when I bought it I think the vendor said it was built in a factory that built Miele branded products also
Thank you. Then these boards are probably of the 1st generation, which had some reliability problems with the IGBTs. But 12 years is a very good duration for an induction hob!! This board is made by the German company EGO. Boards by EGO are mounted on the Miele and AEG/Electrolux hobs. The current boards that I have seen have a different layout and they mount 60Amps IGBTs Toshiba GT60j323. Bosch/Siemens hobs use the.GP4068D. Could they work also on your board?
Quite possibly - If I need to make any further changes I'll take a look at the specs. You may have missed the details int he video but I'm pretty sure the IGBT's failed due to a zener diode not begin properly mounted on the board from day 1.
Thank you. I didn't understand what was happened with the zener. To understand the spoken english is much more difficult for me. Do you know which type is the zener? The present hobs of Miele use EGO boards whith the same layout as these, but I don't know which IGTBs type they use. However these are very good, if they lasted 12 years without failures on the IGBTs.
Sorry I don't know the specification of the zener, its a small smd device with no markings. I made sure it was not short circuited or OC and then simply soldered the one side of the zener that had never been attached properly when the board was 1st made. I assume the zener is in the circuit to clamp any voltage spikes that might damage the igbt's
Hi Simon, Nice video you have here, congrats. Let's see if you can help me with my induction hob problem. Is a Teka VR TC 95 4I it was giving ERROR 5, I changed the IGBT transistors and the Graetz Bridge, also added a new 20A fuse because the line fuse was burn. It happens that the ERROR 5 actually disappeared, but now when I try to switch on any of the 2 fire on that side of the hob it gives me the ERROR 7. I already try to search on internet but I have no results. Can anyone help me please? Thanks
I wish manufacturers would give out error codes... Sorry I can't help any more Rafael. You have clearly made a difference by changing the igbt's and the diodes. I can only suggest you make sure all your connections are good and if it doesn't work then contact teka and see if they can throw some light on the error. Please report back!!
Hello. I have a samsung CTN464 induction hob and it broke down. When I give him the order, I get my fuses. Short-circuit the power supply. Help me please.
Hi Simon I have the same issues with a Smeg board I have removed the IGBT but am struggling to find replacements can you help? It’s a RJH60F7 when I searched I cannot find anything 🤷
Hi Chris, I searched the p/n RJH60F7 and it is a 600v 50A igbt made by Renesas. If you are unable to find this part in stock then try a parametric search on Mouser, RS components or Digikey. Due to covid semiconductor stocks are v low, I found a RJH60D7BDPQ in stock at Digikey which will probably be OK. Alternatively check FGH60N60FDTU, this is also in stock. (I'm assuming the package style is TO247, you didn't specify)
I can't provide you with one on one advice OrM, sorry. Any advice i can will be through comments here and would be very generic, i'm just an ameteur at electromics!
I have a Teka HI345ME oven and hob, the hob is short cycling on and off. The ceramic rings are glowing red briefly, but not long enough to reach temperature then going off and relighting a couple of minutes later, allfour rings doing the same. Any advice please?
Because it's happening on all 4 rings I'd start by looking at the power supply side of the PCB. Apart from that I can't offer any more ideas. Often a thorough visual inspection of the PCB and connections will give some clues also.
Hi Simon ....now I have found something ....perhaps the root cause ....ZD11 ....which is located under one of the IGBT's. It is completely blown. Would it be safe to assume this identification means zener diode? You mentioned this in your video. As I look for a schematic, it appears Electrolux only provides board information. Would you happen to know how to identify this diode to purchase? There is another diode at the opposite end for the other element circuit. How does one identify what the diode is? I was looking for a way to attach a photo of this failure, but it doesn't appear to be a way to do this. It appears there are quite a few of these diodes on this board. Is there a generic diode used universally in this application?
taxicamel When i found my zener diode not connected I initially looked around for component markings but it seem like most smd's that tgey are too small to mark. My only suggestion is to remove what looks like a good one in (from the same location on another ring) and test its avalanche voltage. Without a scematic with component values it can become an impossible task to troubleshoot appliances. My only other suggestion is to google for similar circuits and see if you can find some options. The circuit should work without the zener as its role is to protect the igbt from high transients. In fact my hob worked for years before this latdnt defect resulted in the igbt failing.
mac brown a short circuit somewhere! It's impossible for me to make suggestions on other makes and models without actually seeing the device. As the video shows, the igbt's are a frequent failure mode.
mac brown Cool, glad you found it and hopefully you can repair it. The igbt's and the associated diodes are the 2 components of these induction hobs that are doing the "heavy lifting" and are prone to failure.
I just ordered parts for mine - 2 bad IGBTs, 2 bad Zener diodes, and the rectifier was bad too. Hopefully, that was it. I'll find out in a few days when the parts come in.
One question, if anyone knows. Why the manufacturer didn't put an external fuse (which was empty in 3:29) and the fuse was blown inside the PCB? I had the same problem with a miele induction cooker. The PCB was blown-torn, when the fusebox which was connected in parallel was empty.
mbrn01 I can only make assumptions on the pcb designers intent but I think the fuse carrier is installed deliberately to allow repairs such as this. Why the original manufacturer/designer incorporated a pcb fuse as well is a question I don't have a good answer for! I can only say that having a pcb fuse is a very visual indication of a problem.
Thanks for the reply. The problem is that I could not find a datasheet, what would be the alternative solution? The problem is that my two transistors are broken and 3 diodes on that side. Thanks!
It should be ok. If you can, check the gate voltage spec also and see if it's in the same range too. This is the voltage that is required to turn the igbt. Good luck!
No. Unfortunately they don't mark zener diodes with their rating. Nor is the silk screen of the PCB marked. Perhaps a better electronic engineer than I can specify a value by reviewing the data sheet for the mosfet!
You can help me to fix my Electrolux E36IC75FSS1. If the case You explain is for 4 burner, and for each burner is a little transformer (close to capacitor) in my cooktop there 5 capacitots,one of them test bad. Please help me What part number is this and where to find. If You have one, Let me know,I buy from You. Thx. much
I'm not understanding your question. If you are asking about the voltage specification for the diodes I'd check the existing part number and look up the data sheet. There are usually alternative parts from a few different manufacturers available, you just need to match the key parameters as best you can.
Thanks for the clarification Andrew...it was a case of me assuming what they were without actually checking! You can hear relays clicking when you first start the hob up so now i know where the sound comes from. Cheers!
preethi excel + stove I when on power display very fast off inside fan all running inside power also have but not working the stove ..any one know the problem pls help me
Thanks for the vids Simon, very well explained, instructive and educational.
Looking at my same problem now, I’m feeling that it would be a tad easier if leads of the IGBT to be cut off first before removal and desoldering begins. And, removing and replacing one IGBT at a time and keep the metal holder in place.
This might be a better solution, let me know how you get on!
@@PowerOn-
Hi Simon
I recently revisit my same cooktop (IGBT blown again due to my poor workmanship;).
This time I’d found out easier way to reinstall the metal clip.
Those clips has tiny lip to engage with the groove on heat sink. Just need to position it properly, and press it in with a vice sandwiching just by the heatsink itself (be careful to leave PCB free without force exerted on it during pressing)
Even better if you have a pliers wide enough for the clip width.
Your explanations are educationnal and useful to fix Induction Hob . Thanks a lot for the sharing .
Hi Simon, great video very informative. Can you please give me some advice as to how you got the clips off from the triac's in the first place, on the board im busy with they are really tight and I dont want to break it. Need to replace 4 of the 8 on the board.
Hi Francois. Yes, you've identified one of the harder parts of this repair. The clips are both difficult to remove and replace. Im sure in the factory they must have a specialist tool. I remember removing the clips by sliding them out from the end of the aluminium heat sink. Gently tapping with a hammer and broad/blunt screwdriver was the technique. Not easy but doable. Refitting is the reverse but a bit more difficult as you have to also lever the clip open as you slide it back into position. Good luck!
@@PowerOn- sweet, thanks will give it a go over the weekend.
Thank you very much for this video. I have the same problem (on MIELE KM6383) and with yours video I made it . Thaaaaannnnkkk you. :-)
Well done Fluss! I'm glad you were able to follow the video and fux your hob.
Great video. I had exactly the same problem with my GE Profile PHP900DMBB cooktop a couple years ago. The trace on the board was blown. Unfortunately mine didn't have the fuse brackets installed but the board had the mounting points for the fuse brackets (make sure to get the brackets rated for 20amps as the cheap ones are not). The writing on the board even specified a 20A slow blow fuse. That MOSFET clip is probably the hardest part of the job. I'm even impressed that you got it off. In my frustration I cut off all the components on the side of the board figuring that they would be cheap to replace. I was wrong. Each of those MOSFETs was $12. The bridge rectifier in the middle was cheap. I positioned them all with the clips before I soldered them all back into the board and that worked fine. Fortunately I was able to find the exact parts.
Thanks for the reply Bryce - its a bit of a tricky job but ultimately very satisfying to fix something that would have been very expensive to replace.
Bryce, I also have a broken GE PHP900. Did you have an "E5" error? What is the IGBT part number and where did you source it from? John K.
Great informative video. I have a Miele currently showing up with an error and havent worked on one of these before, so was good to see in your video the board layoutand what's inside.
Thanks for the great feedback - I hope your repair goes well too!
As of now, these hobs below uses the same Italian-made Teka hardware as shared by Simon:
- Miele
- Electrolux/Westinghouse
- Smeg
Thank you Simon.
Lots of parts sharing between brands. This unit is quite old now but the failure modes are also similar with the igbt's and diodes a primary source of problems.
Great video Simon, even 7 years later :D
I concur my Electrolux suffered the same fate and the power generation board is the exact same except I don't have any fuse holders :( I'm repairing mine and will be adding a fuse holder where the in-board fuse failed since there are holes for it.
Amazing Video. Really appreciate for your informative explaination
No problem Johny, glad to be of help
Made by E.G.O. (Germany) - they also make hobs / cooktops for SMEG and AEG I believe.
Then, Bosch/Neff seems to come from Cerler in Spain.
Great video. Have you had to repeat this for this element or do it for any of the others? I am ordering the new IGBTs and was wondering if I should just go ahead and do all 8 now since my cooktop is part of a slide in range/oven combination. Thank you
No i only changed the failed components. "If it aint broke don't fix it" attitude is at play here😀. As I think I said in the video I think the failure was due to a protective fly back zener diodes not being correctly soldered at the factory being the source of the failure on the 1st place. The cooktop has worked flawlessly since. Thanks for the comment.
A "loud bang" sounds like a MOSFET. I always "enjoy" those loud bangs when I work on SMPS power supplies.
It's always a good idea to keep the IGBTs or FETs out of circuit and put a scope on the BASE or GATE and read for clocking, then check the COLLECTOR or DRAIN for a short before replacing them.
The CURRENT SENSE resistor is often blown along with the FET so the IC that drives the FET won't be able to detect proper function of the FET even if you replace it, and the IC itself can be blown too.
P.S. I've handled MANY FETs and have NEVER "zapped" one with ESD. It's not as big of a risk as you might think.
Hi Rick, lots of good information here, thanks for your reply. Just a note on static electricity and generally on ESD problems. You're experience of never having zapped a device is common. However, what I understand from my studies and also several years of experience at work is that the damage you can do to a device is not to kill it dead but to damage it so it's life is much reduced. You can in effect create 'walking wounded'. By taking simple precautions at home you can minimise this, but at work where we make devices guaranteed to work for 25 years it's a whole different storey of ESD flooring, desks, tools clothing, shoes and humidity control. Honestly, it does my head in sometimes 🤪
I used my drill press as a press to fit those clips , work very well
Nice idea!
Hi Simon, Thanks for the video. I have an Electrolux IC hob EHL7640fok which is a German make with 4 stoves. I guess it's a 2015 model similar to your Teka Induction Hob. The problem is I could not be able to find any screws in the back case that I am unable to open it up to examine its content. I wonder if you have come across such device before or not. Thanks.
Very informative video. Thank you. Have a similar Teka. Can someone please tell me what exactly the F07 error is ? It displays only in the bigger ring.
Great video. Pretty old EGO system.... how many years were you able to get out of it?
Still working now. Can't remenber exactly when purchased, maybe 2004 ish?
@@PowerOn- cool. That's impressive.
Nice job. Thermal paste or silicon glue might have helped too, as good thermal contact is critical for the large heat sink to do its thing. Btw What did you do about the blown fuse? :edit: Just spotted the reply below.
Hello,
Great video. Do you happen to know what rating the zener diodes are? Thanks
Great question but, no I don't know. No marking either. 2 ways to find out. 1 remove a good one and test it, or 2 look up a typical circuit for the igbt on the igbt's data sheet.
Hi Simon, did you have to replace the 2 orange relays? Or just add a fuse to the power board? Thank You
In my case just the fuse.
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a question for you, what were the specs of the blown Zener Diode you replaced. I have a Kenmore with the same board and searching for it! Thank you
Unfortunately the zener diodes are so small they don't have any marking on them. It is possible to take one out of circuit and apply a voltage to it and see when it stars to conduct (if its in working order of course). Another alternative is to look up in the specification sheet for the mosfet. There may be a reference design inside this document which specs the surrounding components
@@PowerOn- thank you For your response, I chose 15V @ 1/2watt, we’ll how it goes. Best regards
@@KiwiFrise2573 That sounds like a reasonable value. You probably know this but the diode is there to protect the mosfet from recieving a too high gate voltage ( and a -ve voltage), so making sure the Vgs of the mosfet is not exceded.
Hi Simon, I have a Samsung FTQ307NWGX induction stove. It has blown a fuse, and half of the stove has stopped working (two burners). I replaced the fuse, and it blew the fuse again. Upon close inspection of the boards, I found no damage. What do you think it could be?
While it's difficult to assess, many induction stove problems are due to failure of the igbt's or the large diodes. However, as half of the stove has gone, maybe a short circuit somewhere in the power supply for that side.
Hi Simon, i have the same problems with my miele km 6117. Your video was a realy helpful for finding the problem. It was the IGBT -.-. I already ordered them. But i still need a thermal paste / plates. Do you have any suggestions for me?
From memory there were some green pads already on the existing igbt's I think i reused them but its a few years since i did this repair. Again from memory the igbt's had a metal back so probably requires an electrically insulating layer between the device and the heat sink. Something like this should work fine:
au.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-pads/1745691
thanks! which IGBT and zener diode part# you use? for IAN - yes use 250V20A ceramic fast fuse.
Did you notice, that you thermaly isolated the transistor case from the cooler ? With the insulation tape.
Hi, thanks for your comment, I should have explained in the video, the insulation tape you note is actually a thermally conductive but electrically insulated sheet. I used this in preference to a thermal paste as the I wanted to ensure the IGBT's were thermally bonded to the aluminium heat sink but the metal back of the IGBT was electrically insulated from the same.
The one I just pulled apart has the tape on from factory. Obviously they mix up their parts suppliers.
Sweet. Nice to see a person save some serious money by doing the job themselves ....nice to have electronics background. Now if could have only found some repair video for an Electrolux Induction Stove. An "E35" code appeared which shut down the entire cook top. Apparently there is only one board supporting the fault ....but I don't have the expertise to trouble shoot to component level ....but I AM able to replace plug-in boards no different than a useless ...and expensive ...repairman, who does nothing but read the fault code, for $131.25 CDN, once he arrives, then orders the board once paid for and leaves, then comes back with the board, pulls the range out, disassembles the stove top, removes and replaces the board, then reassembles everything, plugs it back in, and assuming it works, leaves.
You can get your boards repaired now, search ebay for my listings ;) If offer a comprehensive induction board service of all brands. Affordably as well I might add.
I see 4 errormessages on mine..... well troubleshooting will be my hobby for now.
U helped a lot thx for taht!
Hello Simon,
First of all, thanks for your video, it is great and very usefull.
I've repaired one power PCB like yours, and after repace the transistors and the zener's and put the fusible (20 A), it works.
But when I turn on the repaired side it worked in low power < 10. After > 10 the issue got again. The transistors will be damaged again. Do you have any idea what is happening more?
regards.
Hi
I have the same components (and same fault) in a Miele KM 5753. Do you remember whether you used a slow or normal type fuse in your repair? Excellent video by the way 😀😀😀😀😀👍👍👍👍👍
I can't remember but I'd prefer a slow blow if you have a choice. I usually choose a slow blow in a power circuit, particulary here where the circuit will be exposed to more heat than most curcuits will see. Good luck with your repair.
@@PowerOn- mine successfully fixed. Thanks
Nice job. Seems I have the same issue you had. But my induction plate shows E 2 error.
Mines a 900 CM 5 burner EGO boards inside.
Boards look almost the same as you fixed in your vid. I have same blown circuit board and 2 blown transistor diodes which correlate with inductor that was being used.
I though I’d just cut bad transistor diodes out plug a fuse in and use the remaining 4 inductors. Didn’t work. Still gets E2 error
Do you think the circuitry would be clever enough to know if 2 transistor diodes were missing or could there have been more damage to the power filter board. It went bang when she blew and tripped a 32 amp circuit breaker.
As you suggest, Id be guessing that the board can sense missing diodes.
Hi Simon, I have anothe brand(NOVY) but exact same internal hardware. I HAD E6 on all the hobs, but after change 2 caps on the powerboard (470 microF) the left 2 hobs where working again. The right ones still show E6. I check and verified everithing I could but can't find what is going wrong. When I disconnect all hobs and thempsensors, left (good) gobs give E9 while right still give E6. I absolutly sure it is not the tempsensor because value is same on all 4. Hope you have some tips for me. Thanks in advance
Hi Simon. Thanks for the informative video. I have an electrolux induction range oven with an identical electrical housing as yours. My PCB embedded fuse does no contain any fuse clips but I can solder them on. Can I assume the 20AMP fuse is rated for 250V. Any preference over glass or ceramic? Would a microwave 20a250V ceramic fuse do the trick?
Thanks for any help.
IAN
Cup of Tea. Earned.
...and many hundreds have been imbibed since the repair!
Hi Simon
I removed the four IGBT's to test using a simple test procedure, (using diode test on digital meter) between the emitter, collector, and gate. Between two IGBT's that were side by side, I got absolutely nothing E-C, and after touching the gate ....no change. Does this suggest the circuitry was completely open?
On the other two IGBT's, I got completely shorted on one for both tests (as if probes are touching), and on the last, I got 0.32 reading across E-C for both checks.
Any thoughts?
As I previously mentioned, I have looked at this board very closely and see no indications of any component failure.
Is the component between the IGBT's a diode bridge? Should this be tested? If so, can it be tested in cct? I am thinking about how difficult it would be to remove the clamp.
I am shuddering to think of how difficult it is going to be to replace these clamps.
taxicamel Certainty the shorted igbt's have failed and are probably the reason the fuse blew. Now why the igbt blew is a question that i cant answer. The associated large diode needs checking also as its likrly to have gone at the same time.
Yes the clamps are very hard to replace!
I did check the center component between the four IGBT's. Assuming it is a diode bridge.
I found a procedure to test, on line, testing with bridge connected in the circuit.
With diode test position, the readings are:
With negative probe on pin one: and pin 2 - 0.53, pin 3 - short, pin 4 0.53
With positive on pin 4: and pin 3 - 0.53, pin 2 - short, pin 1 - 0.53
Is this what should be expected?
This video was my inspiration (but in Spanish)! ruclips.net/video/hbTMKMqQtAw/видео.html
Hi, i have a indution hob, that uses the same induction plates as yours. One of the induction hobs simply doesnt detect the pan. IT keeps the Y blinking. Any ideia what could cause this.. thks
Mr. Jowett, Your video is very help full to me. Thanks.
On Your video, for each board (4) Is a little transformer.
One question for You:
On my Electrolux Icon cooktop One of them has:
-One side test ~ 1.2 ohm
-The other side is open. ( I think is bad )
Give me please a part # for it to order. ( I need to replace it )
even I don't know it's function.
Thank You
How on earth did you get that clip back on? I'm struggling with it right now.
I've push it back into place with a large piece of wood. You have to push extremely hard onto it to put it back into place.
How did you manage to take the clip out?
Hello Again Simon
I have researched checking IGBT's while still in the cct. I found one site which suggested how to perform this test, but found none of the IGBT's actually matched the suggested outcomes .....so I will be removing these and testing independently.
I am sorry about the previous question about the "failed" board, where the fuse holders are not used. So you simply installed a fuse and everything functioned fine.
My board only shows the fuse holders as a graphic. I will install two holders and use only the one fuse. Is this a 20 amp fuse ...and is a fast-blow type?
Would you be interested in providing an email? I have taken many photos you might be interested in.
I removed the cct brd generator board and found a wire and plug with a what appears to be "load" attached to the end of the wire, under this board. Perhaps some kind of assembly testing cable before closing up the unit(?)
I have also done a very close visual throughout this generator board, at every component and found nothing out of the ordinary. Would you say the IGBT's are the weak part of this board? What would you say is the root cause of this failure ....assuming I find one or more IGBT's is bad?
Hi Simon
I have rcvd the replacement filter board and found the similar blown trace path beside the other relay to the one you found blown.
I could not see this before as it was buried until I removed the elements and took the whole top off.
Because it is the "other" relay to what you found, I am assuming it would be the "other" cct brd generator that has caused the failure on the filter board.
I am not an electronics expert, but have had exposure to a fair bit of circuitry and only understand electronics ....not to design level.
That being said, what did you do with the blown filter board? Did you able to install a 20 amp fuse and "reuse" this board?
Yes, I simply placed a fuse in the empty fuse carrier. No other repairs were done to this pcb.
Thank you.
I just sent another correspondence asking about the type of fuse.
taxicamel I can't see another reply but ill try answer your question anyway! From memory the fuse was just a std one. Not slow blow or motor rated. Of course you would want to replace with the same rating as noted on the pcb. NOTE: it's 240VAC here in Australia. If you live in a 110v country the fuse rating will be different.
The graphic on the board shows S12 20A ....which I would assume means 20 amp. This is a stove that is using 230 VAC .....even though our standard outlets are in fact 115 VAC .....so perhaps no difference (?) when it comes to the high-powered appliances (?)
taxicamel Sure. If its using 240VAC and marked up 20amp then use that rating
I have problem on Electrolux E36IC75FSS .
Your video is the only one that helped me so much.
I need to replace ZD (zener diode) You talk in Video.
Please tell me the voltage of this zener-diode.
At least I need Your suggestion.
THANK YOU.
9
Hi, did you find out the value of the zener diodes?
This is a half bridge topology that I could find on youtube. Rest all are based on 1 IGBT quasi resonant topology
Hi Simon. I'm struggling to find out whether Teka induction hobs, specifically IZC 32300 DMS (and/or IZS 34600 DMS, IZ 6420 and other similar) switch on and off (i.e. heat in pulses) at low power setting or heat continuously. Could you tell?
Hi Larry,. I don't know for certain but I'd guess it's a pwm signal that drives the MOSFETs. So to answer your question it is pulsed but at a high frequency. You'd need to get a scope on the gate leg of the MOSFET to see the signal
Great video and nice production work!
Very helpful, thank you!
Thanks Corey. 😊
That surely makes my fault search easier on identical module which is used as 2/3 of a bigger AEG stove 😊
My cooktop is still going strong the rest of the kitchen is starting to look a bit tired (23 yrs old).....a bit like me
hello I need your help I have the same problem and I changed the igbt and the rectifier bridge and when I tested they broke again
Thats unfortunate. Probably some other component in the same circuit has a short circuit
You let me ask what is the error code (9 reverse 1) from Bosch kitchen . thanks.
Fantastic!👍🙂
Very interesting. In which year was built this hob? Does it use the
same boards as the current Miele hobs? Which IGBT Transistors were built
on? (I have no audio on this PC, if you said it in the video)
The original IGBT Transistor is an IXYS TO-247 ( ISOPLUS-247 ) IXGR32N60CD1
Although there are other equivalents you can use. The hob is about 12 years old now and whilst I can't say for certain when I bought it I think the vendor said it was built in a factory that built Miele branded products also
Thank you. Then these boards are probably of the 1st generation, which had some reliability problems with the IGBTs. But 12 years is a very good duration for an induction hob!! This board is made by the German company EGO. Boards by EGO are mounted on the Miele and AEG/Electrolux hobs. The current boards that I have seen have a different layout and they mount 60Amps IGBTs Toshiba GT60j323. Bosch/Siemens hobs use the.GP4068D. Could they work also on your board?
Quite possibly - If I need to make any further changes I'll take a look at the specs. You may have missed the details int he video but I'm pretty sure the IGBT's failed due to a zener diode not begin properly mounted on the board from day 1.
Thank you. I didn't understand what was happened with the zener. To understand the spoken english is much more difficult for me. Do you know which type is the zener?
The present hobs of Miele use EGO boards whith the same layout as these, but I don't know which IGTBs type they use. However these are very good, if they lasted 12 years without failures on the IGBTs.
Sorry I don't know the specification of the zener, its a small smd device with no markings. I made sure it was not short circuited or OC and then simply soldered the one side of the zener that had never been attached properly when the board was 1st made. I assume the zener is in the circuit to clamp any voltage spikes that might damage the igbt's
Hi Simon,
Nice video you have here, congrats.
Let's see if you can help me with my induction hob problem. Is a Teka VR TC 95 4I it was giving ERROR 5, I changed the IGBT transistors and the Graetz Bridge, also added a new 20A fuse because the line fuse was burn.
It happens that the ERROR 5 actually disappeared, but now when I try to switch on any of the 2 fire on that side of the hob it gives me the ERROR 7.
I already try to search on internet but I have no results.
Can anyone help me please?
Thanks
I wish manufacturers would give out error codes... Sorry I can't help any more Rafael. You have clearly made a difference by changing the igbt's and the diodes. I can only suggest you make sure all your connections are good and if it doesn't work then contact teka and see if they can throw some light on the error. Please report back!!
Hello.
I have a samsung CTN464 induction hob and it broke down. When I give him the order, I get my fuses. Short-circuit the power supply.
Help me please.
Perfect!Well done!VR
Hi Simon I have the same issues with a Smeg board I have removed the IGBT but am struggling to find replacements can you help? It’s a RJH60F7 when I searched I cannot find anything 🤷
Hi Chris, I searched the p/n RJH60F7 and it is a 600v 50A igbt made by Renesas. If you are unable to find this part in stock then try a parametric search on Mouser, RS components or Digikey. Due to covid semiconductor stocks are v low, I found a RJH60D7BDPQ in stock at Digikey which will probably be OK. Alternatively check FGH60N60FDTU, this is also in stock. (I'm assuming the package style is TO247, you didn't specify)
Hi Simon, i have an induction hob and could really do with some advice. Is there anyway i could contact you? Email?
I can't provide you with one on one advice OrM, sorry. Any advice i can will be through comments here and would be very generic, i'm just an ameteur at electromics!
I have a Teka HI345ME oven and hob, the hob is short cycling on and off. The ceramic rings are glowing red briefly, but not long enough to reach temperature then going off and relighting a couple of minutes later, allfour rings doing the same. Any advice please?
Because it's happening on all 4 rings I'd start by looking at the power supply side of the PCB. Apart from that I can't offer any more ideas. Often a thorough visual inspection of the PCB and connections will give some clues also.
Hi Simon ....now I have found something ....perhaps the root cause ....ZD11 ....which is located under one of the IGBT's. It is completely blown. Would it be safe to assume this identification means zener diode? You mentioned this in your video.
As I look for a schematic, it appears Electrolux only provides board information.
Would you happen to know how to identify this diode to purchase? There is another diode at the opposite end for the other element circuit. How does one identify what the diode is?
I was looking for a way to attach a photo of this failure, but it doesn't appear to be a way to do this. It appears there are quite a few of these diodes on this board. Is there a generic diode used universally in this application?
taxicamel When i found my zener diode not connected I initially looked around for component markings but it seem like most smd's that tgey are too small to mark. My only suggestion is to remove what looks like a good one in (from the same location on another ring) and test its avalanche voltage. Without a scematic with component values it can become an impossible task to troubleshoot appliances. My only other suggestion is to google for similar circuits and see if you can find some options. The circuit should work without the zener as its role is to protect the igbt from high transients. In fact my hob worked for years before this latdnt defect resulted in the igbt failing.
Hi, if can help someone it’s ZMM16 zener
Hi simon,i have teka 645, and i have proble with error code "er31". Can you help me what it means? thanks
Hi the fuse on my IKEA induction hob keeps blowing when the heat setting is pressed any ideas
mac brown a short circuit somewhere! It's impossible for me to make suggestions on other makes and models without actually seeing the device. As the video shows, the igbt's are a frequent failure mode.
thanks fella i have checked igbt and that has failed many thank
mac brown Cool, glad you found it and hopefully you can repair it. The igbt's and the associated diodes are the 2 components of these induction hobs that are doing the "heavy lifting" and are prone to failure.
i will let you know how it goes thanks
Sometimes the igbt takes out the bridge rectifier. If you are doing this repair check the rectifier to.
I just ordered parts for mine - 2 bad IGBTs, 2 bad Zener diodes, and the rectifier was bad too. Hopefully, that was it. I'll find out in a few days when the parts come in.
One question, if anyone knows. Why the manufacturer didn't put an external fuse (which was empty in 3:29) and the fuse was blown inside the PCB? I had the same problem with a miele induction cooker. The PCB was blown-torn, when the fusebox which was connected in parallel was empty.
mbrn01 I can only make assumptions on the pcb designers intent but I think the fuse carrier is installed deliberately to allow repairs such as this. Why the original manufacturer/designer incorporated a pcb fuse as well is a question I don't have a good answer for! I can only say that having a pcb fuse is a very visual indication of a problem.
hi i want to no the white cover we see is azbest and when they use on top of heater in not harmful or it isnot azbest
Asbestos? No it won't be asbestos, probably a ceraminc/mica compound
Thanks for the reply. The problem is that I could not find a datasheet, what would be the alternative solution? The problem is that my two transistors are broken and 3 diodes on that side.
Thanks!
Did you watch the video? The datasheet is shown in the video
yes, but i am interested in what size diode to get for replacement, that is not in the video!
@@elemergal1189 Gotcha...someone cites success later in the comments with 18 volt, 1/2 watt zener diodes
DenverGuy Thanks
@@elemergal1189 FYI - I pulled a good Zener diode off my board and measured it's voltage to be 16.5 volts. I've ordered TZMC16-GS08.
I could not find the exact model of igbt at RS. I found one that has a same value but the amp is higher would that be ok?
It should be ok. If you can, check the gate voltage spec also and see if it's in the same range too. This is the voltage that is required to turn the igbt. Good luck!
What 20A fuse was used?
Too long ago for me to remember reliably! I'd geuss it was a standard size, 30mm long. If you have a choice Id use a slow blow type if available.
Sir can u put the circuit diagram of the cooktop
do you know the value o the zener diode
No. Unfortunately they don't mark zener diodes with their rating. Nor is the silk screen of the PCB marked. Perhaps a better electronic engineer than I can specify a value by reviewing the data sheet for the mosfet!
Thanks, they are marker with FB on them but this do not tell the voltage. read that they should be 18 volts but reallu not sure of this...
I installed 18 volts 1/2 watt. And for now, it work fine.
they are 16v if it helps anyone
Have you ever fixed F41 error on IRF 9430 model?
Sorry Levan, it's not an error I'm familiar with.... its not happened to the hob I own yet!
You can help me to fix my Electrolux E36IC75FSS1.
If the case You explain is for 4 burner, and for each
burner is a little transformer (close to capacitor)
in my cooktop there 5 capacitots,one of them test bad.
Please help me What part number is this and where to find.
If You have one, Let me know,I buy from You. Thx. much
I'm sorry I do not have any information on any other make/model of hob
Hallo!
how many volt diodes do I need to replace it?
I'm not understanding your question. If you are asking about the voltage specification for the diodes I'd check the existing part number and look up the data sheet. There are usually alternative parts from a few different manufacturers available, you just need to match the key parameters as best you can.
How to find display fualt
2 orange capacitors are relays
Thanks for the clarification Andrew...it was a case of me assuming what they were without actually checking! You can hear relays clicking when you first start the hob up so now i know where the sound comes from. Cheers!
preethi excel + stove I when on power display very fast off inside fan all running inside power also have but not working the stove ..any one know the problem pls help me
Avoid using the 'boost' function.
My old new wave changes temperature randomly. What can it be and can it be fixed?
?
Do you mean the temperature of the pan changes randomly or the display changes randomly?
सर मेरे इंडेक्सन में हर सप्ताह IGBT सॉर्ट हो जा रहा है।कोई वीडियो डाले या विकल्प बताये।
have a Newwave that went caput'
सर मे रे इंडक्शन ईरर E9 आ रहा है कोई उपाय बताया जा ये
Brits would do anything for tea 🙄🙄