Loft Conversion Part 6 - Make & fit purlin supports. Support loft purlins.
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Welcome to part 6 in my series of loft conversion videos where I show the viewer my loft conversion from start to finish. In this video I show how I make and fit purlin supports onto the joists in preparation for building my pitched roof dormers.
#diyloftconversion #purlinsupports #roofconstruction
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For more loft conversions videos please click on the following links:
Loft conversion part 1 - Removing the insulation & lime mortar - • Loft conversion part 1...
Loft Conversion part 2 - Cutting and fitting the joists - • Loft Conversion Part 2...
Loft conversion part 3 - Building the block work wall - • Loft Conversion Part 3...
Loft Conversion part 4 - Fit more joists up to the block work - • Loft Conversion Part 4...
Loft Conversion part 5 - Insulation underboard & plyboard - • Loft Conversion Part 5...
The Amazon links above are affiliate links. As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Thanks for watching!
Music Credits
Artist - Pouse Party
Song Name - Intro / Outro
Artist - The Elephant Rescue Plan
Song Name - Keeping your secrets
Excellent video. I have a house where someone removed the original roof timbers and put a few supports under the purlins either side. The roof now bows, and it's got solar panels fitted one side! Now i need to start doing what I've seen on this video to make the roof safe and secure. Many thanks.
Best of luck with it 👍
After hearing POUSE say "for another few weeks that'll be it....Please keep an eye out for the future videos I'll be uploading." I was laughing to myself that this is RUclips and I'm already in the future - I'll just get the next video right now, if you don't mind!
Then I realised this was only published online last weekend and the joke's on me. Gutted!
This series is the best one we've seen and we love it. Can't wait for some dorma magic in a couple of weeks!
Hi there, yes they are 'now' so to speak hence why they are taking so long to upload! But hopefully another one coming soon. Thanks for watching!
Ha. I am starting this a year in the future so I get to do what you thought you were going to. Very convenient.
@@Luckingsworth Very happy for you mate, with a Pouse about the House, you can't go wrong!
Probably most useful videos I've found whilst doing my loft, thanks
Glad it helped 👍
Shout out to Big Pouse and his Girls Aloud t-shirt 🤪👍🏻. Great video and series. All the best! 🏴
LOL
Thanks for the feedback. He is also a fan of take that!
I used to be a big fan!
What a brilliant video so well explained, yes I missed seeing the birdsmouth cut like somebody else mentioned but, for me who is someone who has helped two separate firms doing a loft conversion, and neither of them had a clue how to do this, or worse even mentioned it, they just got over the prob with timber and packers,.But this is highly skilled carpentry thanks.for this one.
Thanks for the feedback Peter. Not sure about highly skilled but it suited my set up and it's solid and going nowhere so should help with keeping the roof from moving for the next 50 years.....at least that's the plan.
Whoever did that hedge has made a lovely job of it
Ha ha, it was me and you can watch me cut it by clicking here - ruclips.net/video/NB3S7wvJ10U/видео.html
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE haha...i just watched it...I have the same 751 model too. Upgraded all my Stihl petrol to Makita battery last year. So much better....the dun500z is amazing as well. Well worth the investment
Enjoying these videos.
As I am doing a loft conversion at the moment (no dorma - I know my limits) they are showing me different options and giving me things to think about.
Looking forward to future videos
Thanks Paul, best of luck with the conversion.
Thankyou😊
I watched a lot of your videos.You work hard and clean, most important thing iş, i learner alot from you
I appreciate that! It's a shame I don't know what I'm doing! ;-)
Great to see father and son working together and youngsters learning from someone experienced 👷♂️
Ha!!! :)
When you say father and son, you realise Big Pouse is only 3 years older than me?!
Ha must have been the grey 😉
@@derekt7606 cheeky!
So great finally someone I can follow after searching yt for days this is something I can understand and very well explained and filmed keep up the hard work.
Thanks for the feedback, plenty more to come.
Brilliant videos , just got quoted 30000 to do similar job to my attic ,
Thanks for the comment.
Nice video.. I missed how you actually made the bird mouth template?
You Sir are an absolute Legend! Thankyou :)
Well thanks very much 👍
just seen this video for first time and i give it 10 out of 10. can show us how you measure for the bird mount please.
5m 25 seconds for the birdsmouth. Thanks for the high score!
looking good looking forward to see the end product enjoy the video
To my mind a little over kill with the templates for the in fill over the purlin. From my position in the arm chair I would have bevel cut on the angle of the purlin and the rafter above it on two lengths of timber. Just four cuts over all. And when sheeting in could nail off anywhere into the section above the purling. The insulation and flooring would have gone down long beforehand as I'd be very nervous about damaging lath ceiling below.
I overboarded the lath with plasterboard a few years earlier so it's all plastered and secure. Hope that helps. Thanks for the feedback.
Keep up the good work mate
Thanks for the feedback. Likewise you have a great channel, keep it up!
Cheers man hope your having a good start to the week
thats a lot of work gone into them uprights!! :) when they are not needed for support,. when i done our attic which is exactly the same roof structure as yours . i just put the upright studs to the face of the purlin and they where continuous from the floor right up to the rafters. thats a lot off effort just to nail some plaster board too ! but good work al the same loving the videos!
Hi Neil. If you look in an earlier video you'l see me mention the lack of purlin supports on the coners of the house. They were just never put in, so there was a slight downward bow towards the side of the house. So whilst the timbers weren't need as support all the way along, they were needed at the end to strengthen and stabilise the purlin. As you'll see in a later video I build the cheeks of the dormer in line with the purlin so that's also a reason I support directly under the purlin. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE ah ok! the corners of my semi wer well supported, and also my perlins are huge, my dads in the building trade, and said they wer over kill, no chance of a bow in mine! good job!, all the best Neil, Belfast NI
Brilliant stuff guys. The small detail explained well and camera angles good (not always so in other YT videos). Do you do a series on eaves storage?
No eaves storage vids sorry. Hopefully once all the vids are uploaded you can see what I did with storage. Thanks for watching!
Very nice Girls Aloud t-shirt lol
Is there a video where you've dropped the ceiling below to create headroom in the loft
No, I didn't have to drop the ceiling.
i notice youve used chipboard subfloor, is there a reason for this, since ive read that plywood is much better. also what thickness are you using and why
another great job guy's 😁
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks 🙏
You’re welcome
I see he's really dedicated to the extra loud music. Two and three second loud bursts. Must be trying to promote that band or something.
Hi, unfortunately that was teething problems with my editing software which I have hopefully ironed out since. Once uploaded it was a lot louder than in the original mix so apologies for that but thanks for sticking with it (if you did)!
Great video, coming along nicely ,
Thanks for the feedback.
Brilliant videos , desperate music
Not sure what you mean by desperate, but I think it means you don't like it!!
Would u class this 2 be as strong as having steel beams put in
It's not about one being as strong as the other, it's just different ways of doing it according to your design and existing house structure. The steels and timbers have to be calculated by a structural engineer. People use steel beams to span a large area and also when you do a flat roof, you usually need a steel beam to take the vertical load of the roof at the ridge. I didn't do a flat roof dormer so I just needed joists strong enough to span from the centre wall of my house to the wall plates. Steels are probably quicker really as you level them up, and once in place just fix your joists from one to the other and they should be level, but I did it this way based on my house, design, and budget. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Can I ask why you needed to support the purlin like this? What was supporting it before and did you have to remove it? 👍🏻
Both, the original roof had one support under each purlin in the middle of the loft as seen in earlier videos. There is a brick wall under the end of each purlin but never any support. As a result you can see the roof had a slight sag which you will see me deal with in a later video. I assume back when it was built 130 years ago they left the corner props out for some reason. So to answer your question, these supports are firstly giving the purlins more support than they've ever had before, but on the rear of the roof, and as you'll see later, to the side of the house they act as part of the support for the dormers I build, transferring weight to the joists. The stud timber is c24 graded. The front of my side dormer will be supported by a brick wall but the cheeks are supported by the new joists. As I've said before Mr Brightside it has all been calculated by a structural engineer. Thanks both for watching.
Indeed I am. It's a small dormer so don't worry. I think you need to relax and wait until the end result before passing comment. You seem very up tight. Try and rest.
Hi Danny, I agree every house is different. I have never intended my loft conversion videos to be a 'how to' as that is impossible with loft conversions as each is unique. It is purely for viewers of my channel to have an insight into my loft conversion if they find that kind of thing enjoyable, which a lot of people do. I think it's great to share ideas but unfortunately, given Mr Brightside's track record on the majority of my videos over the last year or two, I think commenting negatively on youtube videos might be a pastime of his or hers. As for the supporting dormer cheeks on joists, it is standard practice. In my house the outer and inner wall are structurally sound, and the span isn't that large so joists from wall to wall are fine. Using steels is often the case when a large roof has a large span from wall to wall, and it is easier in many ways. You level the beam at 2 ends and your joists simply go from one beam to the other. But this often means your walls fall short of the eves. In my conversion I wanted the joists out to the wall for storage space in the eves. There are often several ways to do a job, it just comes down to speed, cost and man power! Thanks for your feedback Danny and thanks for watching.
Great videos very helpful thanks,im doing gable wall loft conversion but have no membrane under tiles do I have to change my whole roof thanks mate any advice 👍
No you don't but you need a vented gap of 50mm between the old felt and the insulation board. I was just re-slating mine while I had the scaffolding up. If you're doing it officially through building control they should be able to provide all the advice you need for your particular home. Best of luck with it.
Does the purlin support adhere to regs? Would it pass if they went to sell their house?
Yes as in this case I left the original purlins in, so they're additional support as the original support is still in tact. They are more to create a cupboard space. Hope that helps.
I noticed you use hand saws to cut wood, why not use a battery-powered recip saw? The second house I built from the ground up was in the country all with Dewalt battery-powered tools including nailers and saws.
I am using the plaster board inside wall which size please tell me
Hi great videos and details I’m in the middle of doing a loft conversion my self it’s a old property semi detached hipped roof the joists that are currently up there are 150mm x 50mm for building regs I’ve been told 175mm x 50 for the span I want to run them parallel with the existing ones do you think if I pack the new joists off by 25mm on the load bearing wall the noggings would be okay installed horizontally on the top 50mm of the joists? Thanks Ben
You'd really have to check with your building control officer as they dictate how to meet the regs. They were always happy to help me. Best of luck with the conversion.
Great video Pouse, looking to do the same with purlin support, any chance you can show how you made birdsmouth template on cardboard ?
any more information on how you made the template for the birdsmouth cut?
Good job ..but you could of put a 2x1 batton across the rafters instead of cutting all those packers.
Hi there, I specifically wanted to keep the original purlin in situ and just support below it. But you could have used a 2x4 maybe and removed the old purlin. The purlins provide the line for the cheeks of a dormer I build in a later video so it will all make sense in the end. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Pouse PLEEEEEEASE tell us how you made that birdsmouth template!!
Did I not show it in the video?
Plz come to Scotland and do mine haha
Bit too far sorry! Thanks for watching.
How many times have Building Control been to visit? I'm only suggesting something simple and they want to keep tabs on me.
A few but until everything gets covered up it's all on show for them to see. They just let me know what they would like to see next. Good luck with your project.
is really hard work, but at the end of the day, is worth it.?
Hopefully it'll all be worth it. Thanks again for watching.
Where abouts did you get your 2x4 supports from and do you think it is necessary for the supports to be below every rafter or could I do every other rafter
It's just 2x4 timber bought from a timber yard. I used c24 graded timber. You need a structural engineer to determine what timber you need if it is for structural support. In my example I already have the purlin supported by the original supports so what I did are additional support and will be used to create the front of my cupboard. Every project is different. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
Good video. Just found your channel 👌
Great stuff, hope you enjoy!
Does this great guy do loft conversion? I am interested in his work!
Hi there, no I don't. This is just my own DIY project but thanks for the comment.
Hi there, no I don't. This is just my own DIY project but thanks for the comment.
Excellent video spoilt by ill advised music ; you don’t need it !
I'm sorry if it ruined your viewing experience, please feel free to critique the other loft conversion vids as there are various ill advised (by myself) songs playing throughout! Thanks for watching 👍
great video as always. I have a question for you, I have the same style of attic roof with the bitumen style sheeting under the roof tiles but I want to insulate inbetween the joists but it looks like I need to leave an air gap between the black sheeting and the insulation? have you covered this in a video anywhere or can you answer that for me? it seems so hard to actually get an answer to this for UK houses as everything on youtube seems to be related to american houses.
I have double layer rolled insualtion on the attic floor so I wanted to take one layer and put it inbetween the roofing joists then board over it and do the same for the floor. One layer on the attic floor and then board over the top, and the same for the rafters to make the attic a more usable space without wasting the insulation.
hopefully you can help
You should leave a 50mm gap with bitumen or with a breathable membrane you should really leave 25mm gap. You will need to use insulation which is suitable for the roof. Insulation board is good because for example, if your rafters are 100mm and you use 50mm insulation board, then you can push insuation in flush with the underside of rafters and you know your air gap is just right. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE thanks for the reply! much appreciated. That does help and confirms what i thought I would have to do. many thanks!
Many thanks for this. Always wondered what way to do the inflation boards in the storage eves. Do you think the ply wood over them is a must if its just for storage? Like the idea for the templates
For storage you can just leave the insulation exposed, I did it to avoid the insulation being knocked about. If you're insulating between the rafters, you need to leave an air gap between the insulation and the roof felt or roofing membrane to avoid condensation build up. You really need to put in some vents as well either through the slates or with soffit or fascia vents. If you watch my loft conversion videos you will see I used fascia vents. Best of luck with it!
Only just stumbled upon your videos and I'm glad I did! What a great series! I have a similar roof its nice and open inside, apart from two struts coming across from the perlins on either side of the roof. Perpendicular to the roof. I can convert with them in place but If i brace the Perlin vertically like you have done in this video all the way along can I remove the existing 2 trusses? Thank you
To do this kind of work you need a structural engineer to take a look. They will give you your options as every roof is different. Don't just remove stuff willy nilly!! I also submitted this to building control for approval. Hope that helps and best of luck with it.
Very Neatly done, However...... The stresses pushes vertically downward on the purlin from the roof weight and likewise the counter supports should be placed at 90 degrees to the purlin and NOT at 45 degrees to the floor joist.
Well this is standard practice in loft conversions. If all rafters were supported at 90 degrees following conversion then there would be no interior space. In this scenario the weight is not only transferred down to the joists, but I haven't removed the original supports anyway. If you watch my earlier videos you will see me build a wall around the supports. Hope that's cleared things up. Thanks for watching.
What’s the tune? It’s cool.
The Elephant Rescue Plan - Keeping your secrets
He's gonna want paying now he's got a speaking part
Indeed he did!
He paid me with a packet of hoola-hoops and a mars bar! And even then it was an Aldi's Titan bar!!🤣
i have 3x2 ceiling joists in my loft spaced about 14in apart and i want to board it out for storage but want to strengthen the floor , i was thinking about screwing 3x2 on top of the existing 3x2 to add strength making them 6x2 does this sound ok , or is doing a criss cross method better +
Too heavy for me
Could you please let me know the spec of the screws you have used to fasten the purlin supports?
I think I used goldscrew 6 x 100. Not entirely sure though.
Enjoyed the video. Whats the name of your company? I'm guessing by your accent your somewhere near Newport?
Not a company, just DIY on my house. Thanks for watching.
Hi pouse.... can you give me an idea of what you budgeted .. compared to paying a company to do this
Hi Martin, probably less than a 3rd of paying someone else to do it. I'm re-roofing the whole lot, and replacing all my facias, soffets etc so difficult to compare as just the loft conversion would have been cheaper I guess. I'm doing two dormers and 3 velux windows. If you reduce number of windows and dormers it keeps the cost down. I have a hipped roof which is tricky to work with. If you have a gable end with good head height, no dormers required, it's a lot more straight forward. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Did you have to get planning permission from the local authority for the conversion?
Loft conversions fall under “permitted development” so no need for planning permission however you do need Building Regs
Lol only 2 yrs late for an answer
where is the bass man???
I left it out on the roof!
How big is your loft in meters ? It's hard to tell !
The usable space (without cupboards) is about 5 x 4m but head room is limited, hence why I have to build the dormers. Thanks for watching!
The usable space (without cupboards) is about 5 x 4m but head room is limited, hence why I have to build the dormers. Thanks for watching!
Do you guys work in South Wales UK
I live in South Wales but don't do this for a living.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE ok weird thought you was a builder ok bud
4x2
hi what planning permission do you need ? thanks
No planning for this specific project but building control approval if you want it as a registered habitable room. Hope that helps.
How come you didnt just lay an extra floor board and then lay the base plate for the stud wall on top of that instead of having to then cut an extra slither behind the wall? Would have saved a lot of pissing about
Hi Matty, it was to do with the access I need for wiring etc later. As I'm doing it myself I won't be do I g certain bits of the project until later. Buy leaving the main living space floor exposed, I have full access for wiring and adding chicken wire and insulation to the floor later. Thanks for the comment.
POUSE around the HOUSE very good point. I thought you may have been doing the whole lot yourself so had assumed that would not have been an issue
That seems to be asbestos roof tiles and you are removing them without protection.
They look like slate roof tiles, which are very common around the area due to supply of Welsh slate and strength to weight ratio being good.
Fibre cement, they look very similar.
Gor gor
Looking pouse, not you.... the job lol