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To your point on doing homework before you go to the dealership, I noticed that one of the John Deere dealers in our area had a very low hour 2032 r that is a 2020 model. What I noticed was that other than a three-point quick attach, the price was Just $500 below what another John Deere dealership was offering for a new one. You really couldn't tell on the pictures on the used one if there was a third function or a rear service port so I had to leave a voicemail and point it out how close they were to a new price. As I got off the phone with him I had made several good points as well as some concessions. One was they probably were a little high since it had been sitting at the dealership for a few weeks and they could probably come down $1,000. The second point he made was that the customer that bought it new a few months ago ended up getting a bigger JD model and bought that tractor with the comprehensive extended warranty for 6 years and it stays with the tractor so there's about 5 years left on it. The third concession he made on it's a good value was that I complained that John Deere's quick attach on the three-point is good but like other manufacturers you have to buy their bushings to make them work. Without much hesitation on the phone he said well he could probably throw in two sets if we would do the deal. Just one other point as well because John Deere has such a large financial arm that they could finance the tractor used at 2.65% for 6 years with credit approval of course. Keep up the good work, because the points you make are quite valid regardless of where you are in the country. I'm in the southwest of the US in in the Texas area where I talk to the dealership and our family property is about 4 hours away in Western Arkansas. So, playing one manufacturer even if it's the same brand against another dealership can get you some good deals. I'm still not sure if I'm going to go that route because we have some very specific needs and a used skid steer with treads may work better for what we're trying to do. Keep on tractoring!
Nice video, Boys I just purchased a new 1025R TLB. After months of talking to dealers it's been very hard to get a great deal. Mostly becouse of covid and supply and demand. I'm pleased with the deal I got. But I will point out that if your not a farmer with a gate card. U need to shop possibly out of state. Example on a $20000 machine at 8% tax in GA that's $1600 vs 2.75% in Alabama that's $550. That alone saved u $1050.
Thanks! Right now is a tough time to buy. Supply is low and lots of buyers. Lots of people that didn’t take vacations in 2020 have money to spend on something else. You gotta do your homework and you gotta be willing to negotiate.
Alot of good information here. I have 2 tractors a 1025r and a 3032r. When I went looking for a set of forks I didn't do my homework and I listened to my dealer and ended with a set of skid steer forks. They were good for 3700 lbs. They worked for the 3032r ok but not the 1025r. Way to heavy. I ended up trading them for a set of 2000 lb forks even up. Now I can use the 1025r and lift something. Lesson learned. I mow with the 1025r and I remove the loader whenever I mow. I don't want that weight on the front end plus the loader makes it hard to get around trees. I always buy attachments that are auto connect. I have a quick hitch on the 3 point. Everything comes off quick & easy. Just my views.
Sounds like you have a pretty good approach to things. I like to remove the loader when i mow as well for the same reasons. Thanks for watching and commenting - Jason
Hey guys great video. Love the Farm. I have a JD 5045e 4wd. The lift is 3,600 lbs on the loader. It is very strong however the weight with filled tires makes ruts every where it goes. I do mostly residential grading, clearing and resloping. Folks that have water problems flowing towards their house. We install catch basins and do retaining walls as well. In an open area clearing, grading, moving dirt, spreading gravel it's fantastic but I've found for most jobs this Tractor is too big and heavy around residential areas. Thus I'm going to downsize to a smaller Tractor. I think the 1 series is too small. The 2038r loader lift is a little weak. Perhaps a 3r would be better. Thanks for the videos. Mark.
Thanks for watching Mark. I could easily see the 5045 being too heavy for residential work. Joshs 2032 can be rough on the yard when mowing. Some of that is related to the fact his entire property is a hillside. I would think on a large flat lawn it would do fine. Great use case example. I would agree the 1025R probably isn’t quite big enough for what you are doing. The 2032R does a pretty good job at everything we need to do. Jason
I have heard horror stories of people bush hogging on a slight grade in 2wd and the tractor started slipping and picking up speed down hill. Have you ever experienced this, and how would you prevent it. Also, what would be a reasonable amount of rear ballast to use that would cover all applications for a 1025R. I am thinking of pouring a concrete block for the 3-point. And how likely is it that the 1025R will tip over. Thanks guys... Excellent video's.
The answer to your first question is simple. Use MFWD on hills, that give you more traction, not just for driving but for braking also. As for the ballast, follow the recommendations in the manual and adjust accordingly once you have gained some experience on your tractor. With experience you'll find that you don't always need to max recommended ballast to operate safely, I use a 60" box blade and can hang 4 suitcase weights on it, a combination of my 42 lbers and my 70 lbers works well for all of my needs.
In an upcoming buyers guide where we feature the midmount mower I'll give a little insight to one of my most scary occurrences, 2 hours after ownership, mowing on a hill and finding out it was not in MFWD... We always mow in MFWD now and frankly with our hills we almost never take it out in fear of forgetting to put it back in... We have a Froniter ballast box full of concrete that came with the 4052R and I use the backhoe or other implements for ballast often... we do a lot of bushhogging so often the rotary cutters are on the tractors.
If you have it in FWD while mowing, doesn't that tear up the yard? I guess that would be better that scooting down the hill out of control and ending up in the hospital, but I don't want my yard tore up either.
@@johnevans6053 my yard is a country property and all hills. No possible way to mow in 2wd. I’m also only mowing on weekends so it’s not uncommon to have to mow it when the ground is wet. Some damage for sure but maybe when I retire I’ll turn it into a manufactured lawn. :-) - Josh
When I purchased my tractor, I thought I would never use a grapple. Ended up installing a 3rd function and purchased a grapple, boy was I wrong. The grapple has become the most used implement, then the pallet forks.
I'll never ever forget my dad saying .... "Timmy, I'd trade your mom before I trade the loader tractor", since I now own a loader tractor I see why he told me this.
When your looking for grapple check out CTATTACHMENTS.com, I just bought one of his 50" grapples for my 1025r and I love it. I bought the Hydraulic Diverter Valve Kit from SUMMIT HYDRAULICS. Both work great.Love your videos keep them coming.
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another good video guys!
forks are always on the tractors at my stepfathers that's for sure.
Thanks Andrew! We are definitely swapping the forks on and off all the time. Very versatile!
To your point on doing homework before you go to the dealership, I noticed that one of the John Deere dealers in our area had a very low hour 2032 r that is a 2020 model. What I noticed was that other than a three-point quick attach, the price was Just $500 below what another John Deere dealership was offering for a new one. You really couldn't tell on the pictures on the used one if there was a third function or a rear service port so I had to leave a voicemail and point it out how close they were to a new price. As I got off the phone with him I had made several good points as well as some concessions. One was they probably were a little high since it had been sitting at the dealership for a few weeks and they could probably come down $1,000. The second point he made was that the customer that bought it new a few months ago ended up getting a bigger JD model and bought that tractor with the comprehensive extended warranty for 6 years and it stays with the tractor so there's about 5 years left on it. The third concession he made on it's a good value was that I complained that John Deere's quick attach on the three-point is good but like other manufacturers you have to buy their bushings to make them work. Without much hesitation on the phone he said well he could probably throw in two sets if we would do the deal. Just one other point as well because John Deere has such a large financial arm that they could finance the tractor used at 2.65% for 6 years with credit approval of course. Keep up the good work, because the points you make are quite valid regardless of where you are in the country. I'm in the southwest of the US in in the Texas area where I talk to the dealership and our family property is about 4 hours away in Western Arkansas. So, playing one manufacturer even if it's the same brand against another dealership can get you some good deals. I'm still not sure if I'm going to go that route because we have some very specific needs and a used skid steer with treads may work better for what we're trying to do. Keep on tractoring!
Thanks for watching and for all the details you shared. Good info! A few phone calls and some research can certainly save got a lot of money.
Jason
Nice video, Boys I just purchased a new 1025R TLB. After months of talking to dealers it's been very hard to get a great deal. Mostly becouse of covid and supply and demand. I'm pleased with the deal I got. But I will point out that if your not a farmer with a gate card. U need to shop possibly out of state. Example on a $20000 machine at 8% tax in GA that's $1600 vs 2.75% in Alabama that's $550. That alone saved u $1050.
Thanks! Right now is a tough time to buy. Supply is low and lots of buyers. Lots of people that didn’t take vacations in 2020 have money to spend on something else.
You gotta do your homework and you gotta be willing to negotiate.
Love my loader and my forks I like my back hole I've got a 23 05 which is a predecessor to the 10:25r
we use the forks all the time! Jason
Alot of good information here. I have 2 tractors a 1025r and a 3032r. When I went looking for a set of forks I didn't do my homework and I listened to my dealer and ended with a set of skid steer forks. They were good for 3700 lbs. They worked for the 3032r ok but not the 1025r. Way to heavy. I ended up trading them for a set of 2000 lb forks even up. Now I can use the 1025r and lift something. Lesson learned. I mow with the 1025r and I remove the loader whenever I mow. I don't want that weight on the front end plus the loader makes it hard to get around trees. I always buy attachments that are auto connect. I have a quick hitch on the 3 point. Everything comes off quick & easy. Just my views.
Sounds like you have a pretty good approach to things. I like to remove the loader when i mow as well for the same reasons. Thanks for watching and commenting - Jason
Read my tractor since 2008 and I think I've had to load her off at twice and it comes off real simple the only takes about 10 minutes to drop it off
I’ve never had it off the 4042R but had it off the 1025R quite a few times and it went real smooth. Jason
Great video guys! I enjoy watching your channel. Not sure about the color of those tractors though but nobody is perfect. 😁😆
Thanks for watching Aaron. Glad to hear it! I only bleed scarlet and grey (Ohio State Buckeyes!) so I’m ok with the slight to the green and yellow...
Hey guys great video. Love the Farm. I have a JD 5045e 4wd. The lift is 3,600 lbs on the loader. It is very strong however the weight with filled tires makes ruts every where it goes. I do mostly residential grading, clearing and resloping. Folks that have water problems flowing towards their house. We install catch basins and do retaining walls as well. In an open area clearing, grading, moving dirt, spreading gravel it's fantastic but I've found for most jobs this Tractor is too big and heavy around residential areas. Thus I'm going to downsize to a smaller Tractor. I think the 1 series is too small. The 2038r loader lift is a little weak. Perhaps a 3r would be better. Thanks for the videos. Mark.
Thanks for watching Mark. I could easily see the 5045 being too heavy for residential work. Joshs 2032 can be rough on the yard when mowing. Some of that is related to the fact his entire property is a hillside. I would think on a large flat lawn it would do fine.
Great use case example. I would agree the 1025R probably isn’t quite big enough for what you are doing. The 2032R does a pretty good job at everything we need to do. Jason
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors I am considering the 2038r. It seems to fit pretty well. What is your opinion on the 3e series? Thanks.
I have heard horror stories of people bush hogging on a slight grade in 2wd and the tractor started slipping and picking up speed down hill. Have you ever experienced this, and how would you prevent it. Also, what would be a reasonable amount of rear ballast to use that would cover all applications for a 1025R. I am thinking of pouring a concrete block for the 3-point. And how likely is it that the 1025R will tip over. Thanks guys... Excellent video's.
The answer to your first question is simple. Use MFWD on hills, that give you more traction, not just for driving but for braking also. As for the ballast, follow the recommendations in the manual and adjust accordingly once you have gained some experience on your tractor. With experience you'll find that you don't always need to max recommended ballast to operate safely, I use a 60" box blade and can hang 4 suitcase weights on it, a combination of my 42 lbers and my 70 lbers works well for all of my needs.
In an upcoming buyers guide where we feature the midmount mower I'll give a little insight to one of my most scary occurrences, 2 hours after ownership, mowing on a hill and finding out it was not in MFWD... We always mow in MFWD now and frankly with our hills we almost never take it out in fear of forgetting to put it back in... We have a Froniter ballast box full of concrete that came with the 4052R and I use the backhoe or other implements for ballast often... we do a lot of bushhogging so often the rotary cutters are on the tractors.
If you have it in FWD while mowing, doesn't that tear up the yard? I guess that would be better that scooting down the hill out of control and ending up in the hospital, but I don't want my yard tore up either.
@@johnevans6053 my yard is a country property and all hills. No possible way to mow in 2wd. I’m also only mowing on weekends so it’s not uncommon to have to mow it when the ground is wet. Some damage for sure but maybe when I retire I’ll turn it into a manufactured lawn. :-) - Josh
When I purchased my tractor, I thought I would never use a grapple. Ended up installing a 3rd function and purchased a grapple, boy was I wrong. The grapple has become the most used implement, then the pallet forks.
Funny how that works isn’t it!
I'll never ever forget my dad saying .... "Timmy, I'd trade your mom before I trade the loader tractor", since I now own a loader tractor I see why he told me this.
Hope your mom never heard that!
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors heck no lol
When your looking for grapple check out CTATTACHMENTS.com, I just bought one of his 50" grapples for my 1025r and I love it. I bought the Hydraulic Diverter Valve Kit from SUMMIT HYDRAULICS. Both work great.Love your videos keep them coming.
Awesome, will check them out, thanks for the suggestion! Appreciate you watching and commenting and glad you are enjoying the videos! - Josh