I have r1’s and they were the best for mowing. I had r4 turf tires that scalper my hilly yard everytime I mowed. The r1’s took care of my lawn the best
Tim, I couldn't agree with you more about everything you mentioned. On my 1025R, I have the R4 tires, Rimguard, and while I have a BH, I remove it in the winter and I made a concrete counter balance. You have taught me so much over the years. While I am constantly alert on the tractor, I feel safe because of lessons that you and others presented on RUclips. Thank you very much and I will continue to enjoy your channel. God Bless you all
Lesson from dad-don't use 4wd until you're stuck because if you get stuck when using 4wd, well, you're stuck. My point is that I have the Versaturf tires on my 1025R. Snowblowing up the driveway in 2wd no problem. Northern Minnesota winters can be rough ya know. I've only needed to press the rear diff lock a couple of times and only need 4wd snowblowing uphill in the grass yard to make the sled run start hill bigger! Versaturf has been a great tire for me. There are two ways to tear up the lawn with them. 1-4wd and turning. 2-2wd turns that are tight or maybe a little too fast, or both. Other than that, they are the best tire I've used. Keep up the great work Tim!
Lol. My wife told me to get what ever I needed when I ordered my tractor. Hmmm $70k later I got everything. Living in Michigan so told me to get one with a cab. Hmmm I did. I love her ever time I get off my tractor.
Great comparison video Tim. You are absolutely correct, if you are doing just about any type of loader work, have rear ballast. It makes a world of difference on the performance of the tractor. Above all, it provides more stability and safety to the operator in my opinion. I see so many people using tractors with the ROPS folded back or down out of the way, and if you are working on hillsides, it's a disaster waiting to happen. My rear tires are loaded as well, but I still use a box blade or land plane as ballast. As an experiment, I was on a a flat surface, I recall picking up a 22' oak log (roughly about 1800lbs) one time with my grapple, and even with all the weight on the rear of my tractor, I could still feel the rear end getting light on me. I immediately lowered the log and cut in half. Man...and woman have to know their equipment's limitations.
We had turf tires on our BX1860. They did great in snow with a rear blower, even on the steep driveway. On the LX2610 we got when we upgraded, we have R14s, which do equally well on the driveway in winter, with a much larger rear blower, and with the front plow blade. Never used chains on either of them and no issues.
Love the verses at the end!! I use an IBC tote with 100 gallons of water in it in my 58hp tractor for my ballast. Makes a huge difference picking things up!
The last part was certainly heavy. But uplifting 🤪😂😅😜😎. Having done loader work since the 70’s I know ballast makes all the difference. Our neighbor had a 3k concert block he poured just so he could load as he wanted to-quick and safe. I saw a backhoe operator carrying an extra bucket on the backhoe to better transfer load when doing loader work. Proper ballast makes it easier.
Great “ground-engaging” conversation without floating and slipping over the facts with weighted bias or bloated ballast. (Sorry, I just had to do it 😉). Seriously, great addition to this series, and recommended watching for those new and old to the compact tractor community. Blessings to you and Christy.
Very helpful video. I'm not a novice tractor owner (Kubota L3901 for 7 years & a 1960's Case Comfort King for 15 years) but certainly not in the same class as most any farmer. I found that I made a few less-than-knowledgeable choices when I bought my new Kubota. 1.) I paid $500 extra for the industrial (R4) tires only to find that I use my tractor much more in the dirt - both kinda dry but mostly mud or soft - and therefore need to sometimes use my bucket to help get unstuck. My R4's instantly become "bald" because they don't self clean like an R1 would. I never find a need to work on my grass unless I'm rototilling to put in a new lawn so ruining my lawn is nary a problem. I live in Minnesota and the R4's leave a LOT to be desired for snow-plowing traction. 2.) I didn't have a 3rd function installed when I bought it new from the dealer. I just installed one because I wanted to use a grapple. One thing that I did do right was to pay the extra $500 for a skid-steer universal quick-connect loader. I swap my bucket for pallet forks constantly and it takes less than 2 minutes. I am installing Rim Guard in my rear tires this spring which will help out the ballast box that I built for the 3-Pt. hitch. I put from 16-24 40 lb. concrete blocks in it for a total of up to 1100 lbs. incl. the box. It's easily removable so that's a great plus but one time I got both rear tires in mud and the box got hung up so even with the help of the bucket I couldn't get unstuck. I had to bring out my pickup and 200' of rope to get out. That was it's only downfall and the savings over a heavy hitch and many weights has been well worth that one time of getting stuck. I believe the heavy hitch would have been hung up also because my rears were down to the axle!
Good video Tim. Tires in an area where digging in is unlikely more edges equals more traction but where things are soft deep lugs and open voids equals traction. I remember an old farmer saying ag tires are fine on your yard because they wont spin if things are wet and you shouldn't be on it if you leave a bar mark... good wisdom. R4s all the way for me on my L3901 because of their puncture resistance as I use it in my tree service. R4s give pretty decent traction on clay when I use my Ford overland 1 Yard scrapper or other types of drawbar work. R4s larger foot print for flotation over R1s. My favorite ballast is the rotating log grapple on the back as it's nearly enough for anything on the loader and if I need more I can always grab a big chunk of wood for a few more hundred pounds... quick, easy, and adjustable for conditions.
I’ll second what you said, I filled the rear tires with RV/Marine antifreeze, and it transformed my machine- more stable, more power to ground and to the loader. It was an easy diy project that only took a few hours.
Tim, turf tires will have best traction in snow because it has the most amount of biting edges, not necessarily most rubber as stated in the video. This is why adding sipes increase traction in snow. The R1 will have the deepest lugs but least amount of biting edges.
Along those lines, your specific snow and terrain conditions will dictate whether your standard tractor tires will work fine for you in snow. I’ve been running regular R4s with no issues, but I have a fairly flat, large parking area to clear along with a short, fairly flat driveway. You can always add chains as well if you find the standard tires are lacking in traction, but you certainly wouldn’t want to run them on a paved surface.
My last tractor had R4's. In the winter i had to put chains on to snowblow. Without chains it was pretty useless. So my current tractor I went with turf tires. Major difference, no more chains needed! I wanted the R3 but they were not avaliable yet. So being in Northern Mi and getting lots of snow the turf tires have treated me well. I do not miss having to deal with the chains!
Very happy with the R14 all round performance including in the snow! Having used turf tires for the past 10 years, I wasn't sure about changing but wanted more traction in the woods Glad i went with the R14's
Good info...I've gotten very creative with ballast weight. Old anchor chain links, old sewer covers as wheel weights. You can do it cheap if get creative.
I have the r4s on my 1023e and they've been good. I have rim guard and 50lb wheel weights on the rear. I also have the heavy hitch front bracket with 8 42lb weights on the front. Most of my work is done from the rear of my tractor and this is what works best for me. Very informative video.
I’m with you that if your running turf, how big a “tractor” do you really need? Another advantage to the turfs for snow is chains. The ag tires and lesser to the industrial, tread will tend to let the chain spans fall between the treads making them less effectual…maybe not totally but, the a large extent. I’m liking the new R14’s.
Great video Tim! Weight is key, if your tractor is not ballasted correctly, forget using any tread design! We don't live in the good'ol days anymore where when you bought a 40-50hp tractor to run a loader and it was made of heavy castings. With new materials and such fierce competition to get a lower price manufacturers had to cut down on the steel and iron in the tractors. I've got an old Fordson (Ford) Major. Tough utility tractor, 38hp diesel from 1957. With a loader it would run circles around any tractor now days. Not ballasted the major was in the 5,500lb area. add the loader, you're are 6,200lbs, it will lift 2,200lbs. Now yes I would suggest wheel weights for feeling more comfortable with that load and safety, but from the factory it could do it! These newer tractors are just designed to be more universal and cost reduced. You have to set the new tractors up to do your tasks is all.
Thank you! This was a good review of ballast which was something I was researching for our new tractor buy. I had no idea about axle weights like you showed, pretty cool
Hello Tim. I have to agree that ballast smooths out the ride. I have the Kioti ck2610 and do not use ballast during the summer because it works in the woods and need three point for dragging trees. I do use a ballast box late fall till spring time for snow removal. You can feel the difference immediately with roughy 700 pounds on three point. Keep videos coming and say howdy to Christy.
Hi Tim, about four years ago I had first begun to watch your farm videos and had found them very informative and most of all your dear old dad's words of wisdom and a scripture at the end of each edition,.may I enquire to how is you dad's health and your other siblings Tim? Warm regards, Billy G.
Thanks for the kind words. Specific to my dad, check out this video. Lifetime Of Influence! Tim & Dad LAST Project together!!! ruclips.net/video/zuPfanT1_Io/видео.html Here is a recent one with my mom and some other family: Landscape Questions for YOU!! '96 Buick Roadmaster! Stump Grinding. ruclips.net/video/Wt1QCHNbJto/видео.html We have some others this year with the extended family. Check them out. Welcome back to our channel :-)
I like the solution I have come up with for rear ballast. I have a Kioti DK4710se with rim guard in the R4 tires. When I want to pick 2400 lbs with the pallet forks I put on a carry-all bracket from Tractor Supply and then pick up a pallet of big rocks. I have no idea how much it weighs. The carry-all is rated for 1000lbs so it must be under that but my hydraulic relief valve trips before the back end of the tractor comes up. The carry-all wasn’t too expensive and the pallet of rocks was free.
I find my backhoe is my best ballast. easy to remove when using the chipper. For me the industrial tires work the best on my bigger tractor. As for the BX that cuts the grass turf tires work great. Nicely done video
I have always had turf tires in on my tractors. You absolutely don’t want to get into a thorn situation….it’s a guaranteed puncture!! Good discussion of the various tire options Tim.
Ballast is everything with compact tractors. I run 600lbs of rim guard in my rear tires and another 7-800lbs on the 3pt. Allows my L3301 to do things that makes people's eyes get big.
My main source of 3pt ballast for my 3039 is my logging winch. It doesnt stick out far and isnt nearly as wide as the rear wheels. It weights about 1k and i also hang weights from it. The bonus is that if you get stuck, you just use the winch to pull you out. I also have the tires loaded. I can also verify that the R4s have high "toughness". I ran some cable thru one of the lugs, down in between the lugs, and back out. Snipped the ends of the cable, kept right on going.
I couldn't afford expensive weights, etc. for my three point hitch. I bought a 55 gallon drum, a draw bar and a center link thing. I filled the drum with concrete. It holds about 1000 pounds of concrete. I saw this on a RUclips video and copied it. Works well on our tractor.
Hey Tim I thought about buying a house in your area two reasons why I can get all kinds of Tractor advice and two I would truly enjoy having a Bible study with you and Chrissy
I agree with your radial tire comments as long as you don't put fluid in the tires. All major tire manufacturers do not recommend fluid in the radial as you will lose the radial benefits. Wheel weights will provide a better ride than fluid filled but the cost and weight limitations of iron sort of limit the use on compact tractors. I think the R14 is advertised as a cross between R1 and R4. Thanks Tim. Very informative.
Another great video Tim there is a Heavy hitch and weights in the future for my 1025r when it gets delivered next month always enjoy your videos fun to watch learn some stuff and get a laugh or two out of them aswell keep up the great work
I'll offer a counter to your initial observation about R1 ag and R4 industrial tires being equally "number 1" for loader work. The R4 was designed for hard surfaces, and for skid-steering....slide-steering the tires across a warehouse floor, for example. For that reason, the side lugs are not as aggressive as those of the R1, which are designed to stop you from sliding sideways down a slope. R4s of the same size generally have significantly higher load ratings (they can carry more load) and run higher pressure than a similarly sized R1. Also, R1s are typically quite a bit narrower than an R4 for the same application. So, with a heavy loader, the R4 is a much safer option. I've seen R1s, due to a combination of lower load rating (and thus, lower air pressure), deeper side lugs, and narrower profile, unseat the sidewall beads under a heavy loader, resulting in a flat tire and increased potential for load shift and/or rollover. R4s, if properly sized for the front end loader, generally don't have this issue. It's gotten worse in the last few years as compact tractor manufacturers try to see who can boast the highest front end loader ratings to beat the competition. If you're buying a tractor with R1 tires, you should definitely compare their load ratings with the loader capacity of the tractor.
The r4 tire is a great tire. What you have to do is lower the pressure in the tire let's say down to 15 or 12 lb of pressure . you get a better ride and you get a bigger footprint. We have done a lot of testing in a lot of different conditions and I believe the r4 tire is probably the best all around considering you use enough ballast weight that I believe is the key. My subcompact tractor has 540 lb of axle weight which includes fluid in the tires. Then I put 705 lb on 3 point and it's almost unstoppable. Thanks for a great video Larry
@@TractorTimewithTim I haven't personally but my friend has and that's how I did all our comparisons. I think the r4 doesn't get Justice and it's because of probably and not enough ballast weight and deflate your tires a little it is an awesome tire and I'm sure the radio tires are awesome tire also.
Another well done and informative episode guys. As a suggestion for another episode during the slow times, would be the many different types of tire ballast. One new to the market is agri-lime. Southern states even use water, some windshield washer fluid, etc. Just an idea.
Great discussion. I run R4 tires on both my BX as well as my mower Kubota G1800. When the yard is dry, no damage, when it is wet I need the extra traction.
R1 with chains do pretty good in the snow and ice on solid surfaces, if you have road chains. When off road in the fields or woods, using the standard ring tire chains are fabulous with a good level of snow. Around the farm, the two types of chains get you through a lot of conditions if the weight is distributed correctly.
Nice to know video, tires are a big issue it the tire customers are using on there tractors.... and about Re-GEN , you should never stop it , let it go throw the process.... GREAT video...
Another great video Tim! I have Rimguard in my 1025R tires as well as 70 lb wheel weights. I used to use my box blade as 3 point ballast but upgraded to a rear weight bracket once I could afford it. On a subcompact tractor rear attachments or a ballast box work great until you venture off even ground. The subcompacts low ground clearance betrays you. The weight bracket is way better and doubles as a place for other uses with the 2" receiver. I would add that front ballast is also important and often over looked. Depending on the task I will put five 42 lb weights on the front to help with traction and steering. Taking load off the front axle is important, but so is keeping your tractor firmly planted to the ground.
I've got R14's on my Kioti CK2610 and do a good mix of all surfaces, including mowing my three acre yard. They don't tear anything up unless you steer too sharp and then the fronts will peel up some sod. They are amazing in the snow as well as the mud, especially compared to the Galaxy R4 that I've used on a 2038R
How much mud you been in ? Deep mud? or just a little muddy area? I'm planning on r1s when i get a tractor but i like the idea of the hybrids but I'm often in deeper mud and clayish soil and don't know how they'd do with those conditions and I don't want to find out the hard way by sliding my tractor off the hillside as i have some steep hills or burying my tractor lol
Unfortunately I can't buy a R14 in Grand L. I had to settle for R4s. Also Your R1s are cheaper than R4 a n d R14. The upcharge on R4s is $600 over the R1. I know the upcharge is even higher on the R14s. I just don't how much more.
@@jarrodp6068 well I broke through the ice this winter on my pond and drowned the engine bending a rod, but I had to get it out somehow and got it refired in two cylinders and managed to back myself out through 3+ feet of mud and water, so they do really well
@@upstategearheads wow sounds like some good times hahaha Yeah id say they do pretty well if they got you outta that mess lol I won't be going anywhere that crazy lol just a couple feet or so of muck
@@jimmcknight3021 I had actually ordered a Bobcat CT2025 which is the same tractor but the dealer was closer than the Kioti dealer, but the R14's we're enough to convince me to get orange paint instead of white
I have run with either a 6 foot brush cutter (750lbs+-) or a 5' box blade (500lbs+-) with 3 logs (150lbs+-) added for ballast and never had an issue of not enough ballast. I run out of lifting capacity before the back end lifts up. I regularly lift logs from 8'-20' long and 8" to 30" diameter. What I need is a bigger tractor than my Mahindra 2638 or more hydraulic power. I often have to resort to the log arch on the back of my trailer and winch to load some logs. I have even broken 2 bolts on a loader arm from lifting so much.
my 1st 1025r TL had trufs with 3 plugs in them. Just recieved my 1025r TLB with the hybrid tire. Haven't tested them out yet but they sure do look better. Great video as always Tim.
If you have not already done it a video of the steps a tractor goes thru doing a regen. Also is there a different procedure for checking air pressure when tires are filled with rim guard. I enjoyed this video series
I have R1 tires for the summer and the wet areas. I also purchased a set of turf tires to switch for the winter. I use an engine hoist and a magnet to change tires on my 3039R.
Tim After owning an older 2WD tractor 58Hp, with loader how very useless they are in snow, mud, even wet grass, when trying to go somewhere with some weight on the loader. I built a set of forks for the loader and have bins with firewood in them, approx 1/2 cord per bin. When trying to maneuver around the yard, it is impossible to go up small grades , even though the tires are loaded 16,9-30's so not light weights. But I find without weight for the 3 pt, might as well have the grandson's tricycle. LOL Someone new to tractors may look at them as a go anywhere vehicle, I know I thought with the R1 type tires there was not much that would stop them, until owning and using it in all conditions. It is amazing just how useless they are in the snow, without chains, even without any weight in the loader.
We always used Turf tires with the garden tractor and snow blade. We used chains and the tires were filled with anti-freeze. I'm still surprised that was the best choice for snow!
The owner's manual of my tractor list R-4s as having nearly double the weight carrying capacity of R-1s so those would be the choice for major loader work. I had to clear significant amounts of snow this winter with R-1s on a 27 hp. compact tractor (Ford 1715) and except for steep hills I had no problems. Snow was nearly 2' of wind compacted snow on a half mile of gravel driveway. On the hills I couldn't push up hill, I drove up and pushed down hill. The new tractor has R-4s so next winter will tell. I was able to lift a full load (1 ton of wood pellets) without additional ballast beyond the liquid ballast in the tires but decided to put ballast on the 3 point to actually unload it from my pickup. (Boomer 50 Cab)
I have R4’s on my 1023. I’ve heard many say that they aren’t good in snow but with my ballast box on I’ve been very surprised how good they are in snow. I live in NE Ohio and have had no problem pushing snow with them using my edge tamers even without chains. We had 27” this winter and still no issue. My drive is flat though.
Tim, one thing that I don’t think you mentioned… On the smaller tractors (compact and especially subcompact) internal wheel ballast lowers the center if gravity. This reduces the tip over sideways tendencies. Or, did I just make that up?
A sturdy set of rear pallet forks allows me to pick up a pallet of as much cement block ballast as I want. When I don't need ballast I can carry stuff around.
I have r4's, I have to cut grass on the dam around the lake and used to use a zero turn was always sliding, I get the job done faster and feels allot safer. Have rimguard also. Thanks again for your advice and suggestions.
My opinion is, if tractor manufactures are building tractors to accept a loader, then the tractor should be built to handle the load without any added weight. Front end should be built to handle the added weight. Skid steers and payloaders are built at the factory to handle the lifted weight on the loader. They don’t add weigh to the rear, it’s built in to the machine. As far as I know. I could be wrong. And again. Just my opinion.
There's something in the name skidsteer loader that is not in the name tractor. Besides, how would you add rear ballast to a skidsteer if you wanted to? It has no 3 point hitch. If tractor manufacturers did do what you say, it wouldn't come in the form of adding an additional 2500 lbs of cast iron to the frame, they would just fit hugely underpowered loaders.
I agree with Zachary. Loaders are called loaders, that is what they do. Tractors are tractors, they are pulling things along. So if a tractor has a loader it’s doing something it’s not primarily designed for and will be a compromise. Adding ballast is a reasonable compromise. If a tractor was weighed up to handle a loader without the need for additional ballast then it would not be very good using it when using the tractor without the loader installed on the tractor, for example when mowing and wanting to take the loader off.
Kubota does this with their tractors! They just limit the capacity so ya don’t need ballast… I’ve bought two L series over the last 10 years and both loaders would only lift about 1100# ….no ballast needed I’ve increased pressure to the loader and now it lifts 1350# ish ….now I need ballast.
Our Kioti DK6010SE has R4 tires, it does leave dents in the lawn and I did use it a lot this winter in snow and ice and found it had decent traction. I would agree that if R14 tires had been an option when we bought the tractor I would have gotten R14's instead. Rear ballast we are running rim guard in all 4 tires and I usually have a 72 inch rototiller on the back. One thing I would like to point out about 3 point ballast is that it often raises the center of mass of the tractor which can make you more tippy side to side, liquid ballast and axle ballast if anything lowers the center of mass.
Great tire descriptions / comparison! My experience with the R4 has been on grass, dirt/mud and snow. Overall the R4 does a good job. Deep heavy wet snow or thick deep mud and you could get stuck for sure. I have Rim Guard (about 470 lbs) and did not notice any damage to the yard. Definitely helped plant the tractor!
Great video. Put four wheeler tires on my zero turn. More aggressive tread, but did less damage to the lawn. Prior to that wheel spin was killing me. On the big tractor I did 1000# of Rim Guard. I would say that's the bare minimum for safe loader operation. Don't know why so much of compact tractors is made of aluminum when they need weight. Works out for heavy hitch.
The thoroughness by which you make these videos is top notch Tim and Christy. I especially enjoy your comparison videos in this format. I will add, just from my experience, to your tire segment. I do not have experience with hybrid tires, I do have experience with R4's and R1's on my 2038R. As for snow removal, the R1's are superior IMO to the R4's in snow. I've never felt the need for tire chains with the R1's, the R4's on the other hand worked okay, but with chains they worked much better. Ice is ice, it's just miserable, but I'd still take my R1's over the R4's every day of the week and twice on Sunday.
@@TractorTimewithTim Most don't, they're not a very common tire for compact tractors. Lol I did chuckle when you talked about your father using them on his 3320 years. It must be a farmer thing, my FIL drives our 2555 around his yard like it's a garden tractor, the washboard lawn just doesn't bother an old farmer.
Took delivery of my new to me 5075E last Friday. It will not be used until the EA extra heavy superduty 1500# boxblade shows up in a couple of months. Rimguard is in the tires. The only thing I have done is drove it down to the hydraulics expert to get a side link setup on order. Ballast good!
Certainly a thought provoking one today. Oddly enough, my dad told me once that our older Cub Cadet 1650 has calcium in the back tires. Not sure anything is in the rears on the 1046LT. My thing about the hybrid tires is they look like the "all season" type. Certainly better than changing from turf tires for mowing to industrial for other tasks.
Thank you for the great video as always my experience with turf tires and snow has never been good even turf tires with even turf tires with weight although we might just get more snow where I'm located thanks the great video have a great day
Thanks for this comparison Tim. You helped me make a decision. I'm looking for new tires for my 2210. The turf tires are not cutting here on the new homestead. I was surprised the the turf tire is the choice for snow.
The JD X590 I had before my 1025R had HDAP turf tires. Really deep treads that did not harm the yard and really good in snow. The down side of HDAP’s is mud doesn’t clean out very well. The HDAP tires come on the X series lawn tractors but only if you get the 54” deck (don’t know the rime nor reason).
I like my r'4s on my 1025r I really believe their gonna last forever!!! Not as forgiving on grass when mowing compared to truff especially if the ground is even the slightest bit wet but I like the r'4s!
I put Versa-turfs on my John Deere 445 lawn mower Unbelievable diffencrance in ride and traction. I don't use it for much else as I have an old 2040 and a Z997R zero-turn for other jobs.
Good video. When I bought my 2032R, I went with the default industrial R4. Bad mistake. Since they are bias you get the bias size rims. So to upgrade to the R14T you have to stick with the R14T Bias version tire. Or spend $1,600 on just new rims for the radial size. I know sooooooooo much more now than I did 2.5 years ago when I started looking into this tractor category. So naturally if ever again I would do a few things totally different. But 95% overall I am very happy with my 2032R.
Great video Tim. I run rear loaded and an 800 pound ballast box and I never take it off unless using a different implement. I have a ranch and without R1’s, I would be stranded.
Definitely would like to know tractor manufacturers' opinions on spacers. Given all the drama involving midsize SUV rollovers, you'd think OEMs would endorse spacers unless they had other possibly mechanical concerns. What's the best kind of ROPS? The one that never touches the ground. lol
I have R4 tires on my 33R and put studs in my tires about 3 weeks ago. We had 2.5’ of snow on the ground and I had everything cleaned up. Three days later it was 60 degrees and all the snow has melted. ☹️ So I guess the studs work well to keep snow away. 😀
Totally agree with your ballast comments. However, your ballast box comments do not jive with my experience. My box lifts plenty high off the ground, but you need to remember it is back there!
I have r1’s and they were the best for mowing. I had r4 turf tires that scalper my hilly yard everytime I mowed. The r1’s took care of my lawn the best
Tim, I couldn't agree with you more about everything you mentioned. On my 1025R, I have the R4 tires, Rimguard, and while I have a BH, I remove it in the winter and I made a concrete counter balance. You have taught me so much over the years. While I am constantly alert on the tractor, I feel safe because of lessons that you and others presented on RUclips. Thank you very much and I will continue to enjoy your channel. God Bless you all
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I am delighted by your basic honesty. Questioning the need for a tractor for full time turf is a great example!
Lesson from dad-don't use 4wd until you're stuck because if you get stuck when using 4wd, well, you're stuck. My point is that I have the Versaturf tires on my 1025R. Snowblowing up the driveway in 2wd no problem. Northern Minnesota winters can be rough ya know. I've only needed to press the rear diff lock a couple of times and only need 4wd snowblowing uphill in the grass yard to make the sled run start hill bigger! Versaturf has been a great tire for me. There are two ways to tear up the lawn with them. 1-4wd and turning. 2-2wd turns that are tight or maybe a little too fast, or both. Other than that, they are the best tire I've used. Keep up the great work Tim!
Lol. My wife told me to get what ever I needed when I ordered my tractor. Hmmm $70k later I got everything. Living in Michigan so told me to get one with a cab. Hmmm I did. I love her ever time I get off my tractor.
Great comparison video Tim. You are absolutely correct, if you are doing just about any type of loader work, have rear ballast. It makes a world of difference on the performance of the tractor. Above all, it provides more stability and safety to the operator in my opinion. I see so many people using tractors with the ROPS folded back or down out of the way, and if you are working on hillsides, it's a disaster waiting to happen. My rear tires are loaded as well, but I still use a box blade or land plane as ballast. As an experiment, I was on a a flat surface, I recall picking up a 22' oak log (roughly about 1800lbs) one time with my grapple, and even with all the weight on the rear of my tractor, I could still feel the rear end getting light on me. I immediately lowered the log and cut in half. Man...and woman have to know their equipment's limitations.
Amazing info provided! Again never thought about the tires, etc. you are the best and thanks for sharing!
Great episode. The differences in the tires is not covered that often that I have seen
We had turf tires on our BX1860. They did great in snow with a rear blower, even on the steep driveway. On the LX2610 we got when we upgraded, we have R14s, which do equally well on the driveway in winter, with a much larger rear blower, and with the front plow blade. Never used chains on either of them and no issues.
Love the verses at the end!! I use an IBC tote with 100 gallons of water in it in my 58hp tractor for my ballast. Makes a huge difference picking things up!
Tim, I normally love your videos. But I found this one to be a bit Tire-ing.. 🤣
Don’t tread on me! :-)
The last part was certainly heavy. But uplifting 🤪😂😅😜😎. Having done loader work since the 70’s I know ballast makes all the difference. Our neighbor had a 3k concert block he poured just so he could load as he wanted to-quick and safe. I saw a backhoe operator carrying an extra bucket on the backhoe to better transfer load when doing loader work. Proper ballast makes it easier.
Great “ground-engaging” conversation without floating and slipping over the facts with weighted bias or bloated ballast. (Sorry, I just had to do it 😉). Seriously, great addition to this series, and recommended watching for those new and old to the compact tractor community. Blessings to you and Christy.
Very helpful video. I'm not a novice tractor owner (Kubota L3901 for 7 years & a 1960's Case Comfort King for 15 years) but certainly not in the same class as most any farmer. I found that I made a few less-than-knowledgeable choices when I bought my new Kubota. 1.) I paid $500 extra for the industrial (R4) tires only to find that I use my tractor much more in the dirt - both kinda dry but mostly mud or soft - and therefore need to sometimes use my bucket to help get unstuck. My R4's instantly become "bald" because they don't self clean like an R1 would. I never find a need to work on my grass unless I'm rototilling to put in a new lawn so ruining my lawn is nary a problem. I live in Minnesota and the R4's leave a LOT to be desired for snow-plowing traction. 2.) I didn't have a 3rd function installed when I bought it new from the dealer. I just installed one because I wanted to use a grapple.
One thing that I did do right was to pay the extra $500 for a skid-steer universal quick-connect loader. I swap my bucket for pallet forks constantly and it takes less than 2 minutes. I am installing Rim Guard in my rear tires this spring which will help out the ballast box that I built for the 3-Pt. hitch. I put from 16-24 40 lb. concrete blocks in it for a total of up to 1100 lbs. incl. the box. It's easily removable so that's a great plus but one time I got both rear tires in mud and the box got hung up so even with the help of the bucket I couldn't get unstuck. I had to bring out my pickup and 200' of rope to get out. That was it's only downfall and the savings over a heavy hitch and many weights has been well worth that one time of getting stuck. I believe the heavy hitch would have been hung up also because my rears were down to the axle!
Good video Tim. Tires in an area where digging in is unlikely more edges equals more traction but where things are soft deep lugs and open voids equals traction. I remember an old farmer saying ag tires are fine on your yard because they wont spin if things are wet and you shouldn't be on it if you leave a bar mark... good wisdom. R4s all the way for me on my L3901 because of their puncture resistance as I use it in my tree service. R4s give pretty decent traction on clay when I use my Ford overland 1 Yard scrapper or other types of drawbar work. R4s larger foot print for flotation over R1s. My favorite ballast is the rotating log grapple on the back as it's nearly enough for anything on the loader and if I need more I can always grab a big chunk of wood for a few more hundred pounds... quick, easy, and adjustable for conditions.
I’ll second what you said, I filled the rear tires with RV/Marine antifreeze, and it transformed my machine- more stable, more power to ground and to the loader.
It was an easy diy project that only took a few hours.
Tim, turf tires will have best traction in snow because it has the most amount of biting edges, not necessarily most rubber as stated in the video. This is why adding sipes increase traction in snow. The R1 will have the deepest lugs but least amount of biting edges.
Along those lines, your specific snow and terrain conditions will dictate whether your standard tractor tires will work fine for you in snow. I’ve been running regular R4s with no issues, but I have a fairly flat, large parking area to clear along with a short, fairly flat driveway. You can always add chains as well if you find the standard tires are lacking in traction, but you certainly wouldn’t want to run them on a paved surface.
My last tractor had R4's. In the winter i had to put chains on to snowblow. Without chains it was pretty useless. So my current tractor I went with turf tires. Major difference, no more chains needed! I wanted the R3 but they were not avaliable yet. So being in Northern Mi and getting lots of snow the turf tires have treated me well. I do not miss having to deal with the chains!
Turf ARE r3’s.
@@TractorTimewithTim See there is the confusion with these numbers.Lol. I wanted the hybrid tires but was unable to get them at the time.
A mess isn’t it!?!
Tim where I'm enjoying these videos, I'm missing Truck And Trailer Tuesdays. I was learning a lot.
Maybe we'll bring it back again sometime :-)
Very happy with the R14 all round performance including in the snow! Having used turf tires for the past 10 years, I wasn't sure about changing but wanted more traction in the woods
Glad i went with the R14's
Thanks for finally comparing all of these tires side by side! Never knew about the R2's...
Good info...I've gotten very creative with ballast weight. Old anchor chain links, old sewer covers as wheel weights. You can do it cheap if get creative.
I have the r4s on my 1023e and they've been good. I have rim guard and 50lb wheel weights on the rear. I also have the heavy hitch front bracket with 8 42lb weights on the front. Most of my work is done from the rear of my tractor and this is what works best for me. Very informative video.
Great info! I have R4's on my Kubota B2630 and they work great.
I’m with you that if your running turf, how big a “tractor” do you really need? Another advantage to the turfs for snow is chains. The ag tires and lesser to the industrial, tread will tend to let the chain spans fall between the treads making them less effectual…maybe not totally but, the a large extent. I’m liking the new R14’s.
Great video Tim! Weight is key, if your tractor is not ballasted correctly, forget using any tread design! We don't live in the good'ol days anymore where when you bought a 40-50hp tractor to run a loader and it was made of heavy castings. With new materials and such fierce competition to get a lower price manufacturers had to cut down on the steel and iron in the tractors. I've got an old Fordson (Ford) Major. Tough utility tractor, 38hp diesel from 1957. With a loader it would run circles around any tractor now days. Not ballasted the major was in the 5,500lb area. add the loader, you're are 6,200lbs, it will lift 2,200lbs. Now yes I would suggest wheel weights for feeling more comfortable with that load and safety, but from the factory it could do it! These newer tractors are just designed to be more universal and cost reduced. You have to set the new tractors up to do your tasks is all.
Thank you! This was a good review of ballast which was something I was researching for our new tractor buy. I had no idea about axle weights like you showed, pretty cool
Hello Tim. I have to agree that ballast smooths out the ride. I have the Kioti ck2610 and do not use ballast during the summer because it works in the woods and need three point for dragging trees. I do use a ballast box late fall till spring time for snow removal. You can feel the difference immediately with roughy 700 pounds on three point. Keep videos coming and say howdy to Christy.
Thanks Tim. Spot on about rear ballast. It’s a must have.
Great guide to tractor tires and rear ballast, I use R4's on my tractor.
Enjoy this kind of video. I learn a lot . Great information.
Hi Tim, about four years ago I had first begun to watch your farm videos and had found them very informative and most of all your dear old dad's words of wisdom and a scripture at the end of each edition,.may I enquire to how is you dad's health and your other siblings Tim? Warm regards, Billy G.
Thanks for the kind words. Specific to my dad, check out this video. Lifetime Of Influence! Tim & Dad LAST Project together!!!
ruclips.net/video/zuPfanT1_Io/видео.html
Here is a recent one with my mom and some other family: Landscape Questions for YOU!! '96 Buick Roadmaster! Stump Grinding.
ruclips.net/video/Wt1QCHNbJto/видео.html
We have some others this year with the extended family. Check them out.
Welcome back to our channel :-)
I like the solution I have come up with for rear ballast. I have a Kioti DK4710se with rim guard in the R4 tires. When I want to pick 2400 lbs with the pallet forks I put on a carry-all bracket from Tractor Supply and then pick up a pallet of big rocks. I have no idea how much it weighs. The carry-all is rated for 1000lbs so it must be under that but my hydraulic relief valve trips before the back end of the tractor comes up. The carry-all wasn’t too expensive and the pallet of rocks was free.
Super useful video! Tons of good information. Thanks for making it!
I find my backhoe is my best ballast. easy to remove when using the chipper. For me the industrial tires work the best on my bigger tractor. As for the BX that cuts the grass turf tires work great. Nicely done video
I have always had turf tires in on my tractors. You absolutely don’t want to get into a thorn situation….it’s a guaranteed puncture!! Good discussion of the various tire options Tim.
Ballast is everything with compact tractors. I run 600lbs of rim guard in my rear tires and another 7-800lbs on the 3pt. Allows my L3301 to do things that makes people's eyes get big.
My main source of 3pt ballast for my 3039 is my logging winch. It doesnt stick out far and isnt nearly as wide as the rear wheels. It weights about 1k and i also hang weights from it. The bonus is that if you get stuck, you just use the winch to pull you out. I also have the tires loaded. I can also verify that the R4s have high "toughness". I ran some cable thru one of the lugs, down in between the lugs, and back out. Snipped the ends of the cable, kept right on going.
I couldn't afford expensive weights, etc. for my three point hitch. I bought a 55 gallon drum, a draw bar and a center link thing. I filled the drum with concrete. It holds about 1000 pounds of concrete. I saw this on a RUclips video and copied it. Works well on our tractor.
As long as you got sumpin heavy back there :-)
Hey Tim I thought about buying a house in your area two reasons why I can get all kinds of Tractor advice and two I would truly enjoy having a Bible study with you and Chrissy
I agree with your radial tire comments as long as you don't put fluid in the tires. All major tire manufacturers do not recommend fluid in the radial as you will lose the radial benefits. Wheel weights will provide a better ride than fluid filled but the cost and weight limitations of iron sort of limit the use on compact tractors.
I think the R14 is advertised as a cross between R1 and R4.
Thanks Tim. Very informative.
Can you show me a couple of examples of manufacturers recommending against fluid in radials?
I really appreciate these videos you’ve been making on tractor basics; the one you did about PTOs was immensely helpful. Thank You!
Thanks Jack!
I totally agree you’ve got to have rear ballast completely changes the tractor
Another great video Tim there is a Heavy hitch and weights in the future for my 1025r when it gets delivered next month always enjoy your videos fun to watch learn some stuff and get a laugh or two out of them aswell keep up the great work
Thanks for the kind words, Rob!
I'll offer a counter to your initial observation about R1 ag and R4 industrial tires being equally "number 1" for loader work. The R4 was designed for hard surfaces, and for skid-steering....slide-steering the tires across a warehouse floor, for example. For that reason, the side lugs are not as aggressive as those of the R1, which are designed to stop you from sliding sideways down a slope. R4s of the same size generally have significantly higher load ratings (they can carry more load) and run higher pressure than a similarly sized R1. Also, R1s are typically quite a bit narrower than an R4 for the same application. So, with a heavy loader, the R4 is a much safer option. I've seen R1s, due to a combination of lower load rating (and thus, lower air pressure), deeper side lugs, and narrower profile, unseat the sidewall beads under a heavy loader, resulting in a flat tire and increased potential for load shift and/or rollover. R4s, if properly sized for the front end loader, generally don't have this issue. It's gotten worse in the last few years as compact tractor manufacturers try to see who can boast the highest front end loader ratings to beat the competition. If you're buying a tractor with R1 tires, you should definitely compare their load ratings with the loader capacity of the tractor.
The r4 tire is a great tire. What you have to do is lower the pressure in the tire let's say down to 15 or 12 lb of pressure . you get a better ride and you get a bigger footprint. We have done a lot of testing in a lot of different conditions and I believe the r4 tire is probably the best all around considering you use enough ballast weight that I believe is the key. My subcompact tractor has 540 lb of axle weight which includes fluid in the tires. Then I put 705 lb on 3 point and it's almost unstoppable. Thanks for a great video Larry
Have you tried the radial hybrid tires€
@@TractorTimewithTim I haven't personally but my friend has and that's how I did all our comparisons. I think the r4 doesn't get Justice and it's because of probably and not enough ballast weight and deflate your tires a little it is an awesome tire and I'm sure the radio tires are awesome tire also.
Another well done and informative episode guys.
As a suggestion for another episode during the slow times, would be the many different types of tire ballast. One new to the market is agri-lime. Southern states even use water, some windshield washer fluid, etc. Just an idea.
Great discussion. I run R4 tires on both my BX as well as my mower Kubota G1800. When the yard is dry, no damage, when it is wet I need the extra traction.
R1 with chains do pretty good in the snow and ice on solid surfaces, if you have road chains. When off road in the fields or woods, using the standard ring tire chains are fabulous with a good level of snow. Around the farm, the two types of chains get you through a lot of conditions if the weight is distributed correctly.
Nice to know video, tires are a big issue it the tire customers are using on there tractors.... and about Re-GEN , you should never stop it , let it go throw the process.... GREAT video...
Another great video Tim! I have Rimguard in my 1025R tires as well as 70 lb wheel weights. I used to use my box blade as 3 point ballast but upgraded to a rear weight bracket once I could afford it. On a subcompact tractor rear attachments or a ballast box work great until you venture off even ground. The subcompacts low ground clearance betrays you. The weight bracket is way better and doubles as a place for other uses with the 2" receiver. I would add that front ballast is also important and often over looked. Depending on the task I will put five 42 lb weights on the front to help with traction and steering. Taking load off the front axle is important, but so is keeping your tractor firmly planted to the ground.
I have Heavy Hitch brackets on machines. I like them both. The cart is really nice for the double bracket.
I've got R14's on my Kioti CK2610 and do a good mix of all surfaces, including mowing my three acre yard. They don't tear anything up unless you steer too sharp and then the fronts will peel up some sod. They are amazing in the snow as well as the mud, especially compared to the Galaxy R4 that I've used on a 2038R
How much mud you been in ? Deep mud? or just a little muddy area? I'm planning on r1s when i get a tractor but i like the idea of the hybrids but I'm often in deeper mud and clayish soil and don't know how they'd do with those conditions and I don't want to find out the hard way by sliding my tractor off the hillside as i have some steep hills or burying my tractor lol
Unfortunately I can't buy a R14 in Grand L. I had to settle for R4s. Also Your R1s are cheaper than R4 a n d R14. The upcharge on R4s is $600 over the R1. I know the upcharge is even higher on the R14s. I just don't how much more.
@@jarrodp6068 well I broke through the ice this winter on my pond and drowned the engine bending a rod, but I had to get it out somehow and got it refired in two cylinders and managed to back myself out through 3+ feet of mud and water, so they do really well
@@upstategearheads wow sounds like some good times hahaha
Yeah id say they do pretty well if they got you outta that mess lol I won't be going anywhere that crazy lol just a couple feet or so of muck
@@jimmcknight3021 I had actually ordered a Bobcat CT2025 which is the same tractor but the dealer was closer than the Kioti dealer, but the R14's we're enough to convince me to get orange paint instead of white
Great video on wheels. I have been debating on getting hybrid tires for my 1025R.
I have run with either a 6 foot brush cutter (750lbs+-) or a 5' box blade (500lbs+-) with 3 logs (150lbs+-) added for ballast and never had an issue of not enough ballast. I run out of lifting capacity before the back end lifts up. I regularly lift logs from 8'-20' long and 8" to 30" diameter. What I need is a bigger tractor than my Mahindra 2638 or more hydraulic power. I often have to resort to the log arch on the back of my trailer and winch to load some logs. I have even broken 2 bolts on a loader arm from lifting so much.
my 1st 1025r TL had trufs with 3 plugs in them. Just recieved my 1025r TLB with the hybrid tire. Haven't tested them out yet but they sure do look better. Great video as always Tim.
Great video keep it up I like your blog
If you have not already done it a video of the steps a tractor goes thru doing a regen.
Also is there a different procedure for checking air pressure when tires are filled with rim guard. I enjoyed this video series
I have R1 tires for the summer and the wet areas. I also purchased a set of turf tires to switch for the winter. I use an engine hoist and a magnet to change tires on my 3039R.
My choice is the r14s love them
Super video, Super series! Great information for new, intermediate and seasoned tractor owners.
Tim
After owning an older 2WD tractor 58Hp, with loader how very useless they are in snow, mud, even wet grass, when trying to go somewhere with some weight on the loader. I built a set of forks for the loader and have bins with firewood in them, approx 1/2 cord per bin. When trying to maneuver around the yard, it is impossible to go up small grades , even though the tires are loaded 16,9-30's so not light weights. But I find without weight for the 3 pt, might as well have the grandson's tricycle. LOL
Someone new to tractors may look at them as a go anywhere vehicle, I know I thought with the R1 type tires there was not much that would stop them, until owning and using it in all conditions. It is amazing just how useless they are in the snow, without chains, even without any weight in the loader.
Just bought a bx2680 with a front scoop. I got my weight box today..which a game changer.. wow..scary lifting anything in the bucket.
We always used Turf tires with the garden tractor and snow blade. We used chains and the tires were filled with anti-freeze. I'm still surprised that was the best choice for snow!
The owner's manual of my tractor list R-4s as having nearly double the weight carrying capacity of R-1s so those would be the choice for major loader work.
I had to clear significant amounts of snow this winter with R-1s on a 27 hp. compact tractor (Ford 1715) and except for steep hills I had no problems. Snow was nearly 2' of wind compacted snow on a half mile of gravel driveway. On the hills I couldn't push up hill, I drove up and pushed down hill.
The new tractor has R-4s so next winter will tell. I was able to lift a full load (1 ton of wood pellets) without additional ballast beyond the liquid ballast in the tires but decided to put ballast on the 3 point to actually unload it from my pickup. (Boomer 50 Cab)
Frustrating that they put such small R1's on these tractors. Wish they would choose a bit wider version.
I have R4’s on my 1023. I’ve heard many say that they aren’t good in snow but with my ballast box on I’ve been very surprised how good they are in snow. I live in NE Ohio and have had no problem pushing snow with them using my edge tamers even without chains. We had 27” this winter and still no issue. My drive is flat though.
I am enjoying this series.
Tim, one thing that I don’t think you mentioned…
On the smaller tractors (compact and especially subcompact) internal wheel ballast lowers the center if gravity. This reduces the tip over sideways tendencies.
Or, did I just make that up?
Yes, true. Thought I mentioned, but maybe not.
A sturdy set of rear pallet forks allows me to pick up a pallet of as much cement block ballast as I want. When I don't need ballast I can carry stuff around.
I have r4's, I have to cut grass on the dam around the lake and used to use a zero turn was always sliding, I get the job done faster and feels allot safer. Have rimguard also. Thanks again for your advice and suggestions.
Tim on the 4066r with snow cab package it offers Nokia tr2 snow tires for rear and Nokia snow tires for the front. Another tire option
My opinion is, if tractor manufactures are building tractors to accept a loader, then the tractor should be built to handle the load without any added weight. Front end should be built to handle the added weight. Skid steers and payloaders are built at the factory to handle the lifted weight on the loader. They don’t add weigh to the rear, it’s built in to the machine. As far as I know. I could be wrong. And again. Just my opinion.
That would mean you would be forced to buy 3 point ballast even if you already have some.
There's something in the name skidsteer loader that is not in the name tractor.
Besides, how would you add rear ballast to a skidsteer if you wanted to? It has no 3 point hitch.
If tractor manufacturers did do what you say, it wouldn't come in the form of adding an additional 2500 lbs of cast iron to the frame, they would just fit hugely underpowered loaders.
I agree with Zachary. Loaders are called loaders, that is what they do. Tractors are tractors, they are pulling things along. So if a tractor has a loader it’s doing something it’s not primarily designed for and will be a compromise. Adding ballast is a reasonable compromise.
If a tractor was weighed up to handle a loader without the need for additional ballast then it would not be very good using it when using the tractor without the loader installed on the tractor, for example when mowing and wanting to take the loader off.
@@zachary3777 A lot of skidsteer manufacturer's offer weight kits to add to the rear.
Kubota does this with their tractors! They just limit the capacity so ya don’t need ballast…
I’ve bought two L series over the last 10 years and both loaders would only lift about 1100# ….no ballast needed
I’ve increased pressure to the loader and now it lifts 1350# ish ….now I need ballast.
Our Kioti DK6010SE has R4 tires, it does leave dents in the lawn and I did use it a lot this winter in snow and ice and found it had decent traction. I would agree that if R14 tires had been an option when we bought the tractor I would have gotten R14's instead. Rear ballast we are running rim guard in all 4 tires and I usually have a 72 inch rototiller on the back.
One thing I would like to point out about 3 point ballast is that it often raises the center of mass of the tractor which can make you more tippy side to side, liquid ballast and axle ballast if anything lowers the center of mass.
Thank you for doing an en-tire episode on this ;)
Nice mention of your dad.
Great tire descriptions / comparison!
My experience with the R4 has been on grass, dirt/mud and snow.
Overall the R4 does a good job. Deep heavy wet snow or thick deep mud and you could get stuck for sure.
I have Rim Guard (about 470 lbs) and did not notice any damage to the yard. Definitely helped plant the tractor!
Great video. Put four wheeler tires on my zero turn. More aggressive tread, but did less damage to the lawn. Prior to that wheel spin was killing me. On the big tractor I did 1000# of Rim Guard. I would say that's the bare minimum for safe loader operation.
Don't know why so much of compact tractors is made of aluminum when they need weight. Works out for heavy hitch.
I agree about the aluminum.
aluminum is easy to cast and machine.
Great video .I learned a lot about tires . Keep up the great work . God bless
love the series ...have water in tires and carry an implement ...but may need to add some weights
The thoroughness by which you make these videos is top notch Tim and Christy. I especially enjoy your comparison videos in this format.
I will add, just from my experience, to your tire segment.
I do not have experience with hybrid tires, I do have experience with R4's and R1's on my 2038R. As for snow removal, the R1's are superior IMO to the R4's in snow. I've never felt the need for tire chains with the R1's, the R4's on the other hand worked okay, but with chains they worked much better. Ice is ice, it's just miserable, but I'd still take my R1's over the R4's every day of the week and twice on Sunday.
Interesting! Thanks for the feedback, Pat! I have no experience with R1’s (on a compact tractor) on snow.
@@TractorTimewithTim Most don't, they're not a very common tire for compact tractors. Lol
I did chuckle when you talked about your father using them on his 3320 years. It must be a farmer thing, my FIL drives our 2555 around his yard like it's a garden tractor, the washboard lawn just doesn't bother an old farmer.
Took delivery of my new to me 5075E last Friday. It will not be used until the EA extra heavy superduty 1500# boxblade shows up in a couple of months. Rimguard is in the tires. The only thing I have done is drove it down to the hydraulics expert to get a side link setup on order. Ballast good!
Certainly a thought provoking one today. Oddly enough, my dad told me once that our older Cub Cadet 1650 has calcium in the back tires. Not sure anything is in the rears on the 1046LT. My thing about the hybrid tires is they look like the "all season" type. Certainly better than changing from turf tires for mowing to industrial for other tasks.
Tim, another great informative video.
Thank you for the great video as always my experience with turf tires and snow has never been good even turf tires with even turf tires with weight although we might just get more snow where I'm located thanks the great video have a great day
Thanks for this comparison Tim. You helped me make a decision. I'm looking for new tires for my 2210. The turf tires are not cutting here on the new homestead. I was surprised the the turf tire is the choice for snow.
Hey Tim, the R1W is the radial version of the R1, according to our tire dealer here. Just put some on and depth of thread is the same as R1
The JD X590 I had before my 1025R had HDAP turf tires. Really deep treads that did not harm the yard and really good in snow. The down side of HDAP’s is mud doesn’t clean out very well. The HDAP tires come on the X series lawn tractors but only if you get the 54” deck (don’t know the rime nor reason).
I have the Carlisle radials filled with methanol on my 1025R an haven’t had any problems tearing up my yard.
Lots of great info Tim. Thanks
I like my r'4s on my 1025r I really believe their gonna last forever!!! Not as forgiving on grass when mowing compared to truff especially if the ground is even the slightest bit wet but I like the r'4s!
I put Versa-turfs on my John Deere 445 lawn mower Unbelievable diffencrance in ride and traction. I don't use it for much else as I have an old 2040 and a Z997R zero-turn for other jobs.
Good video. When I bought my 2032R, I went with the default industrial R4. Bad mistake. Since they are bias you get the bias size rims. So to upgrade to the R14T you have to stick with the R14T Bias version tire. Or spend $1,600 on just new rims for the radial size. I know sooooooooo much more now than I did 2.5 years ago when I started looking into this tractor category. So naturally if ever again I would do a few things totally different. But 95% overall I am very happy with my 2032R.
An additional benefit of rear ballast is it reduces the stress and pressure on the front axel when doing loader work.
Good video. What tires are best on gravel? What about mixing tires? for example, R1 on back, R4 in front
Great video Tim. I run rear loaded and an 800 pound ballast box and I never take it off unless using a different implement. I have a ranch and without R1’s, I would be stranded.
I would love to see something about wheel spacers too, for the side to side safety. I have a cabbed LX3310 and it seems real tippy side to side.
Definitely would like to know tractor manufacturers' opinions on spacers. Given all the drama involving midsize SUV rollovers, you'd think OEMs would endorse spacers unless they had other possibly mechanical concerns. What's the best kind of ROPS? The one that never touches the ground. lol
Great video and informative. 👍
I got turf tires they have worked out very good for me from loader work to mowing and if I ever get a different tractor I will have Turf tires again
You might try the hybrids. Very nice!
I have R4 tires on my 33R and put studs in my tires about 3 weeks ago. We had 2.5’ of snow on the ground and I had everything cleaned up. Three days later it was 60 degrees and all the snow has melted. ☹️ So I guess the studs work well to keep snow away. 😀
Totally agree with your ballast comments. However, your ballast box comments do not jive with my experience. My box lifts plenty high off the ground, but you need to remember it is back there!
Great series.
Switched to Versa Turf 2 years ago, much better ride quality and traction. Had the 1025r for 6 years now. Great video Tim.
Thanks John!