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Edited to correct Mfg locations: Any thoughts on the “Zetor” compact tractors? I guess the compacts are made in Korea along with many other brands, and the large industrial versions made in Czechoslovakia but can't find much info on them.
Love my Kioti 3510 SE. it has a great lift capacity dual rear remotes that were not add ones and a front hook up for my grapple. Skid steer attachment ready and Daedong is a great diesel engine. Thousand’s cheaper than some of the others and a lot more tractor for the money. You gotta give one a look if your serious about getting a tractor !!!
I bought my farm off foreclosure and the old owner sold me the equipment. A JD 4310 was in the mix but it has a push blade instead of a loader. Took me years to find an affordable tractor with a loader, a 4610 with a backhoe! I never realized how all around useful a front bucket would be. Best piece of equipment..
All good advice. Tried keeping an older tractor (1978 IH 574) to use around the property for mowing, driveway work, etc. Unless you use them every day, they quickly become a maintenance and dependability problem. I couldn't use mine every day and my "Old Farmer" wrenching skills had faded long ago. It left the property and a 2015 JD 4052 (w/ FEL!) took its place. I -- and my knuckles -- do not regret the change.
I bought 2 months ago a brand new 2022 Boncat ct2025 and I work it hard and have been super impressed. They're built much heavier and stronger than a comparable john deere. No complaints yet
I was 12 yrs old and had a 1948 model. When people asked how I spent my time on weekends and after school I tell them they will find it very boring. In regards to the horses comment I would say "Who do you think was training them to do all of the work?". . .that would have been me. I was woken up way too early and taken to heard disbursement sales when farms were being foreclosed on and all of the livestock was going or remote auctions and I had to pick out what horses had decent conformation and minds to be worth loading in the trailer to take home. Then I had to train them and either sell or keep for their intended purpose based on body and mind. I had 1 horsepower!!!
This past summer I bought a 2007 Kubota b7610 with 480hrs for about 9400 CAD about 7500 USD. No loader but I think it was a good deal, my buddy is paying almost the same for a new motor in his BX that he rolled. I got it as dedicated 3 point attachment tractor, brush hog, tiller, rear blade etc and maybe pulling a trailer around once in a while. Needed it to have more ground clearance than my 1025r for my uneven and wet areas. Always a great start to my day with a Good works video.
We have owned a 2010 JD 2320 since it was new. It has been a true workhorse. I did cut a hole in the side panel to access the u-joint as the forum recommended. The only problem we have had is a dead battery some 5 years ago. Hopefully it will serve us well for years to come.
If you are greasing the U-joint then it isn't a problem. the issue is they never said that it even existed in the manual and people didn't know to grease them. They tended to blow up around the 500 hour mark and when they went they took a lot of things with them and even if they didn't people had to move the engine to get the new U-joint in. I have a 2320 as well and it is a pain to get at it. I am thinking about cutting a hole in there because you have to take the bolts out of the dash and move it up to get to the steel cover plate to be able to get in there with a needle attachment. I have toyed with selling the tractor just for the pain of servicing it.
@@vsteel it’s not hard with factory u-joints with a long grease gun with a needle fitting. Even easier if the factory u-joints are replaced with a u-joint on the cap like a Moog 410 has (can get these for less than $30). And really the u-joint repair isn’t all that hard, just a little time consuming. The 2320 is such a nice small machine in its class. Ergonomics are spot on and it’s very capable. Yanmar made is Japan. This model will last a lifetime if properly cared for.
Thanks for taking a position on these tractors. Most would not do that so it's a good thing your doing here. You may have just saved someone some serious money. Good job.
Thanks for your Honesty. You Sir are 1 of a kind . I'm in the market for a new tractor something around 40 to 50 HP. I was looking at LS d but now I just don't know. I love Jonh Deere but thar proprietary stuff burns 🔥 my Backside. I've thought about a Kubota but it don't think I need the mid pro because I have a giant Ferris Z turn that's been Flawless that suspension works and the cut is PERFECT. IF You but a Ferris z turn order the oem blades off ebay new you'll save a minimum of a $135 over dealer and same with belts and those caster wheels on the deck. I receive NOTHING from Ferris but if you're looking to buy a Great Z turn Try it and get the springy seat I didn't, and I wasn't forking out $899 at the time. The reason I even brought up the seat I don't think you Coffee would have A RIPPLE in it. It's great without the Cushion seat it would be just Awesome with it.
Always enjoy your videos. I owned a 2305 for several years and performing maintenance on it was easy and had no problems. Now own a 1025R that I have some issues with. Hydraulic leaks, 3 point position control failure (John Deere stood behind their product and fixed) and the blasted breaking seat suspension (that John Deere says there are no issues with but the 2021 1025Rs have a much improved ,stronger seat suspension) but I still love my tractor. I encourage anyone new to tractors or buying a new model or brand to watch RUclips channels like good works tractors and read related forums. There's lots of information on all Brands and models.
My 3025E (2019) had 3 point position errors. I was able to fix it; there's a silver-colored metal shaft with two nuts on it that moves forward and backward when the rocker arms change position. This controls the other side of the hydraulic valve from the control lever. The nuts were loose, and so the tractor didn't accurately "know" the position. Manually pushed on the rod until the 3 point reached its max travel (the engine lugged, and I backed it off just until it didn't). Tightened the nuts down, and it was good to go. Thing is, they still come loose. Easy fix, just annoying.
@@soundman1402 my 3 point issue turned out to be cut rock shaft cylinder o rings. Dealer and John Deere took care of it quickly now good to go. However, when the tractor came back there's a slight hydraulic leak at the sump screen fitting (o ring) dealer offered to come right out but it so small I told him not to worry about it until next service. But then I remembered that it just was serviced! Dang it!
"No loader, no deal." I couldn't agree more! When I told my Kioti dealer that I didn't require a loader, he assured me that I DID! In fact, he said if I didn't want my loader, six months in, he would buy it back.
@@PamMullinax-q2c I bought pallet forks (my dealer calls them "poor man's grapple." They're very useful, but I use my Everything Attachments grapple more than anything!
Honestly I really like the 1025r and the 1023e, the problem with them is their transmissions. There's a very common problem with them leaking. Which takes about 20 hours to fix. This happens because they don't use gaskets, they use liquid loctite sealer. I'm not kidding about 5 out of 10 of them leak withing the first 100 hours or so. Just be very careful and always be looking for leaks so you can get it fixed before your warranty expires.
I bought a jd 2320 October 2019, knew about the ujoint issue ahead of time. Deal was fantastic, selling dealer maintained and it was traded back to the selling dealer, which I bought it from. Ujoints had been done by said dealer, around 300 hours. I decided after much thought, I'd do them again last year, wasn't anything wrong with them, just figured it was cheap insurance. It's a fantastic tractor, if you are aware of this issue. I've had zero problems in the 2 years I've had it, and it hasn't been babied; this is my lawnmower, and whatever project workhorse.
@@jimolson8424 yes. Only downside is having to take the floorboard up to grease, minor inconvenience tho. It'll only need done once a year, use a quality grease, no worries.
@@seanitaliano8759 I can get to my grease fittings from the underside of my 2320. It’s tight and you need a long hard pipe on the grease gun to reach. I replaced my original u-joints with Moog 410’s. There are several similar. Napa has a 410 ujoint which is the same. The grease fitting is in one of the u-joint caps.
Great information. As an old Ford and Alis user since the 1970s (learned how to drive on an 8N...and plow fields at the same time) and a current Kubota owner, you really break it down quickly. Thank you!
If you're into 8n/9n fords(I am not!), you can buy every single part on them. Seems to me they were more trouble free than the modern tractors though. Keep the fluids changed, lube what needs lubed... make sure they get clean air. So unbelievably simple. I grew up on farmall and it's the same story. seems like more complex maintenance to me in the new stuff with hydro transmission, pollution control, etc. I went with IH B414 for our homestead because the engines were strong, dependable, common, and parts availability. They're not that hard to figure out if you have a book.
@@robbiefrentz9427 yeah, I'm not a big fan of over run clutches...I have used one with my 6ft bush hog on a farmall 230. It will let you stop, but changing gears is still a waiting game(at least with mine). I would rather have a drag behind bush hog rather than 3pt on old machines so you still have steering...then I am double cautious about what I drive the tractor into! Ha ha! Other than that they're great!
Can't afford the green ones. If it has plastic fenders, hoods etc, keep it. The biggest thing most need to decide is how long can you wait to get it fixed. A production tractor vs a hobbyist can make some decisions easier. As I got older I knew it was getting dangerous to use a clutch, so I got a used hydro.
I'm with you, on the NO Plastic Hoods especially! When you're lifting large chunks of Snowbanks out of the way with a Loader, there's inevitably going to be pieces that fall back onto the Hoods!
@@balanced4harvest552 i have a BX2350. it has been a decent tractor but the plastic fantastic isnt so fantastic. i treat the body panels like they are made out of eggshells
I live on a homestead where I still use my grandfathers 1947 International Farmall C every year for field work. Old thing will never die. Just put a new set of brake bands on her and she’s good to go again. Around the more civilized parts of the property I use a JD 2320 with an auger, front bucket, belly mower and snowblower. Luckily, the U-joint issue was discovered by my constant use of RUclips several years ago. So I had the original u-joint replaced and now grease the new joint 2-3 times a year depending on how much and where we utilize the tractor. As my grandfather always said “The right amount of grease will keep a machine running forever.”
Thanks for making this video. I purchased a 2015 LS XG 3037 as my first tractor and I have to say that I traded it in last year for a red cab tractor with air conditioner which is great but I really miss my blue tractor because it never had to go back to the dealer for any failures and I put over 700 hours of land clearing and moving dirt with this little blue tractor. It had more than enough power to do anything I wanted it to do and believe me I was not nice to this tractor. Last year I got heat stroke twice while working on my property in Central Florida and for health reasons I had to make an upgrade but I wish I could have found a blue enclosed tractor with AC unfortunately during covid there were none to be found. Thanks always for your great videos and reviews.
I work for kubota dealership and the b3350 is covered under warranty for the dpf and reformer, if you did your research about it you would know, however these are great tractors but it due to operators negligence of not running the machine correctly
Whether or not you need a loader depends on what you’re doing, and your budget. I ended up for going a front in loader and as a result with my same budget I was able to get a much bigger and stronger tractor. The main use I bought my tractor for was grading a quarter mile long dirt driveway. Had I got a much smaller tractor with a front and loader it never would’ve done the job, for example that rinky-dink little John Deere 1025. So in my case I’m very happy without it but I’m not saying that they aren’t useful it’s just a matter of. What do you need and how much money do you have.
Thanks for another great video. I appreciate that even though you are a Kubota and John Deere fan, you pull no punches and show no bias in listing the tractors to avoid. The New Holland dealership we are dealing with is unfortunately 120 miles away, but living in an isolated community leaves little option.
Frank, the economy is getting hard for small tractors. The local Kobota dealership closed up some months ago. They were in business were over 30 years, but the new tractors and parts are not readily available. Other dealerships in the area are John Deere, Case IH (but not compact or subcompact), and New Holland. I have a small Case IH 24DXe (24 hp) diesel equipped with the FEL. I've used it for over ten years but no longer need it; I got all my digging done.
@goodworktractors my dad has owned two Kubotas and there hasn't been any major issues. His first was a 2007 Kubota BX24 thing ran like a champ. Had that for 13 years he sold it to get the LX2610 that Kubota he has now is a beautiful machine.
@@isaiahj9827 deere doesn't own yanmar. They have a production agreement. That's it. Yanmar Holdings owns yanmar. John Deere owns a john Deere. End of story.
As far as letting people know what tractors may have a history of problems, THAT, is actually a good thing! Other RUclips vids have given the same tractors as example, and (since I'm looking for a good used 40hp tractor) that has given me the lead I needed to look up ANY problems on whatever tractor I'm interested in! Growing up on older tractors have taught me that trying to adapt hydraulics, live power pto, loader and all the other nice additions they were never built with, involves more in time and money than it is worth! Another GREAT video, Courtney! Your insights are helpful!
I work on several tractors, and the parts prices on John Deere have went through the roof, they rape you at the parts counter, and watch the electronics, it breaks down it's gonna cost big. The one that impressed me has been the Kioti, bought one 29 years ago and it will out live me. Seen several issues with Kubota loaders and ring and pinions on the hydrostatic models.
Lots of talk about parts price and availability for the Kioti and Mahindra. What us your opinion on it. The new tractors is like Mercedes Benz, look great, but full of junk parts, emissions control handcaped the manufactories. I'm having a second thought on buying new ones. I think 2018 and prior may be the best years.
The older tractors are far more dependable, electronics on the newer tractors and larger equipment may be cool when it works, but a nightmare when it quits, parts for John Deer are insane high, I needed some bearings and seals for the front drive hub on a mid sized JD, couldn't buy them,had to buy the entire assy, $5.200 dollars,it said made in India on the new part.
@@ronwest4522 Wow! That hurts. At the end, after watching many YT videos, googlelinng, regarding all the brands, new kids on the block and all, my two choices are Kubota or New Holland. NH dealer nearby, 6 miles, been there for 80 years, and price. Kubota, reliable, no parts issues, the dealer is a little far, 40 minutes drive, but Kubota makes the tractors.
in 2018 when we were looking at the subcompact tractors, I hadn't heard of TYM so I avoided them. Kubota was much too expensive, Kioti had a lackluster representation from the dealer so we narrowed it down to Deere or Massey. I wanted the tractor, loader, and backhoe only. Deere wanted $26k and would not change the backhoe to operate like an excavator stating it would void the warranty. Massey wanted $21K and re routed the hoses for my operating style, with no issues and full warranty. Obviously we went with Massey GC1710. Amazing and everything we need.
🤔 help me understand what you mean when you say you wanted the backhoe to operate like an excavator. I am top notch hoe man. So please explain because I must be missing something. Thanks
TYM (Tong Yang Manufacturing) actually makes some Mahindra tractors. They bought out my favorite small hp tractor manufacturer, Kujukie from South Korea, marketed as Branson Tractors here in the USA. I have a 40 hp that is 20 years old and I use it daily. It is my rake tractor during hay season and brush hog, and pto log splitter the rest of the year. It has been a reliable machine. I also have a John Deere 2550 cab tractor for mowing and baleing. It's been good too.
I bought a TYM 474..great tractor 500 hours, nothing but oil, filter. And grease. Shes a honey. Love the Tym compared to kubota. 474 is rock solid. It uses the cummins designed engine and has power to spare.
Classic tractors are dirt simple to work on. If you are at all handy, they can be a good value. But be sure to use your skill to look it over before purchase. I bought a 1968 Ford 5000. Before I handed over the $$, I went over it carefully. Some of the electrics were in rough shape, but that's easy to fix. I knew I needed to rebuild the carb, and again, that is fairly easy. Big things like clutch, engine compression, etc. were all fine, so I knew it needed nothing major. In the end, I upgraded many things such as replacing the points with an electronic ignition, replacing all the lights with LEDs, and such. Paid $6k for the machine and put maybe another $1k into it. I now have a 67hp tractor that is built like a tank. I've already been offered $14k+ for it, so I know it's holding its value. But the real value is that I have a serious machine to do serious work. Oh, and New, Old, Stock (i.e. the parts) are not impacted by the Supply Chain issues. The 50yo radiator burst last winter and I had a new one at my door in 3 days. Yes, there are some parts that are hard to find like power steering cylinders and distributor caps, but I had researched this kind of stuff before hand.
I've owned a JD 2305 since 2007. The driveshaft u-joints are a challenge to get to. However, if you keep an eye on them and do the maintenance it's really not a problem. I replaced the entire driveshaft assembly last year as a precaution. As with any machine: do the maintenance and you'll eliminate 99% of your problems!
@@Harry-zz2oh You are correct: Deere screwed up on this one. But be inquisitive. Understand and explore how your machine works. Follow forums and RUclips channels like this one. And, sometimes, experience is the hardest teacher!
1025r owner here. I spend way too much time underneath mine just looking. By doing so I know what things should look like and hopefully will catch something before it becomes an issue.
@@Harry-zz2oh You know by looking for grease nipples. Just like looking for loose bolts, damage, etc. my mechanic dad never taught me to look in the manual for grease nipples, he taught me to look at the moving parts. The u-joints are a common one that get missed on many vehicles. If you can't catch something if it's not in the manual, someone else should be servicing your stuff.
I have a b3350 with cab, front loader and backhoe. I work that thing like it’s a red headed step child. The primary issues I’ve since disabled due to starting and staying running have all been related to safety switches. If you jump out the seat switch and the Hydostat trans pedals this will cure random non-start and dying when bouncing in seat. As for the DPF regen, if you run the motor above 2000 rpm you will seldom if ever need to do a park in place regen. If you live in a cold area and have issues you must remove an intake baffle to allow preheated intake air into the engine to keep dpf hot enough. A company in Poland sells a DPF delete kit but I think right now at 250 hours I don’t need it. If you get a deal on a low hour b3350, I’d take it. Mine was included with our house, if I ever leave it will go with me as the house appraisal is above the mortgage without a tractor. I look at it as $30k profit and a free toy to build sand castles all day long 😁😉🇺🇸🪵🚜
Twenty-five years ago I bought a Mitsubishi MT210D from the early 1908s. It is tall and skinny, loud, lacks power steering and is indestructible. Twenty-five days ago I bought a 20-year-old Kubota B7500. The moral of the story: if it still runs well after two decades it will last many more years. And new is, well, boring.
Couldn't help but notice the "REMINGTON" tractor parts on the bench behind you. Some of those parts were hard to find for a while so we had better stock up on them when we find them. Great video BYW.
Loved my Mahindra, but hated the parts situation. Parts just weren't available. Hopefully they've improved that, but we had to wait six weeks for some front axel seals. I sold it to a good friend at a serious discount and got at John Deere 1025R.
HAD THE. SAME SITUATION DURING THE. EARLY DAYS. OF. COVID , VARIOUS DEALERS COULDN'T GET PARTS , CALLED MAHINDRA ------ DIDN'T GET ANYWHERE , TOLD THAT PART MAKERS CLOSED DOWN BECAUSE OF COVID . ***** MAYBE MAHINDRA SHOULD HAVE LET DEALERS DESIGNATE THEIR VARIOUS NEW TRACTORS AS **** PARTS TRACTORS -------- DEALERS REPLACING THOSE PARTS THEN LATER DISCOUNTING THOSE TRACTORS FOR SALE ???????? ***** TRADED MY MAHINDRA FOR ANOTHER BRAND .
Wow you talk fast. Good info. I looked at the bobcat and LS for a while, even Massy Fergussen. I landed on the 1025R for John Deere innovation and dealer access. I am very satisfied with the choice I made. Keep up the "Good Works".
I have a rk55 year and half old 900 plus hours . Baled 598 round bales 1000lbs pound. I have not had one problem with this tractor at all .very good heat ,ac is a must if you want a good tractor I would buy again thank you all for your time!
I am addicted to these videos. Based on the last video of what to avoid, I bought a kubota 2501. Couldn’t be happier. 3 hours moving snow just to get out of my driveway. Wouldn’t have made it without my tractor. It’s been a challenge finding implements for it. There is a huge market right now for cat 1. Keep them up Courtney. Thanks.
My best advise is to purchase a tractor large enough to NOT have universal joints in the drive line. I know you think you need a small category 0 but you really don't. Go ahead and get a small category 1 with a solid drive line (no u joints).
Good info thanks. My problem with tractor warranties, the dealers see you coming a mile away & they're ready to rumble (if you will) over not honoring your warranty. There's not much we can do but you better be prepared for a fight.
Speaking of the John Deere 2305, the 2210 is SUPER SIMILAR! If you're not up for tearing apart the operator station and replacing the U-joints (or worse, the whole main drive shaft)... DO NOT BUY IT! Had to do that on mine, wasn't hard but took some time with getting parts. There are a few videos floating around on the procedure if you're interested (DEBOSS Garage has a particularly good one)
It’s not that hard, but takes a little while, 4-6 hours for someone not familiar with the repair. You need $20 worth of tools, and 2 $30 unjoints with grease fittings on the outside and problem is solved. Many RUclips videos and instructions on green tractor website to walk anyone with a little bit of common sense to complete the task. Deere did modify the manual down the road, but they did mess up initially. This issue is really so overblown. The 2210, 2305 and 2320 are some of the best small tractors out there. They are a Yanmar built in Japan tractors and should last a lifetime. Just replace the u-joints if you are unsure if they were maintained and you have a dandy if a machine. Better quality than most in their class, even new machines.
@@chesterinflorida1567 I agree. I have wanted a 1025R or even 1023E for several years, but I came to realize that I'll never justify one at current prices. I started looking at the 2305 and learned about all potential problems. I found a tractor with 468 hours that has only been used for loader duty, and has never had the rear 3-pt or either PTO used. An old guy decided he needed a new tractor one day. I laid under it, there's zero movement in the U-joints and there is evidence they've been greased, looks like it was done regularly. The tractor looks like new throughout. I've talked to guys that have them and they love them. I'm not going to be scared away because one dealer had one that he didn't investigate thoroughly. I'm looking forward to years of happy service from my 2305.
I bought a Massey Ferguson gc 1723 a year ago, Excellent small tractor and my dealer is second to none. Tried to go green but couldn't get a call back from their dealer, Thy seem to be to busy selling tractors to our government !
Another great video Just wanted to tell you that along with the 2305 John Deere, the John Deere 2210 also had the problems with the the driveshaft and I learned the hard way. Just something to look out for when buying one.
I'm a girl and have been looking in the used market and when it doesn't have a loader I basically am like "next" and when it does I am still looking to make sure that things are not rusted and all things are in good and functional order. It was far cheaper and easier to weld issues on an old front end loader or fix the hydraulics than to find a "new to me"/used loader for an older model tractor. I came across more engines and other misc parts left in barns for my old tractor than front end loaders. Old Farmall girl here.
Older tractors ... They are more simple to repair and maintain than modern tractors. And it's surprising how many parts are available for the big runners of their day (Ford N series, Ferguson TO and MF series, etc) -- often newer discontinued tractors from the 80s/90s are harder to find parts for.
Greatful for your insight... JD dealer came to service my 4710 this AM . Starter not impinging on fly wheel after poping in a brand new battery after sub zero temperatures... looking at new tractors...very greatful for your INSIGHT...
Just to add some more JD, Yanmar info. It was 1987. I was an Ag teacher at the local high school. That year we bought a JD 1050. It was completely made by Yanmar. Right down to the Goodyear tires which were made in Japan. It was a great tractor and is still running at the school. That says a lot about a piece of equipment that has been used by teenagers it's entire life.
Wow a JD 1050, that brings back some memories from I guess not that long ago. My childhood was spent most weeks working on a pretty good size meat sheep and goat farm, if we weren't stacking square bales or fixing fence we were cleaning bed pack pens. The ONLY tractor they had was a JD 1050, 4wd loader. We worked the absolutely living snot out of that thing, it lifted piles of shit it was never meant to move, I think these new half plastic tractors would have broken in half. As far as I know, 20 some odd years on, that poor old 1050 is still going! I can't even imagine how many actual tons of manure that thing moved. That said what terrible ergonomics that thing had, and the tie rods in the front of the axle were always getting bent pushing the manure pile up.
2019 Mahindra emax 22 L TLB........ I researched for over a year for what I wanted. 4 piston loader , Arm rest, Skid steer quick disconnect, Hydrostatic with cruise control, iron axles and transmission case And a kukji engine which is the Cummins 3 cylinder.... I paid 26,000 for the TLB new And could not be happier it's worth more right now than I paid.
@@MrBlaze256 And for that price they are good tractors ... they're just not in the top 5 brands that's all. So you don't get a 7 year iron clad warranty Or part availability for being the number one brand of tractors in the world. And the only other thing that's different is resale value. Mine's worth more than I paid new Almost 4 years later! However I would buy Yours before a John Deere any day!
Had a 2018 GC1705 with a loader, was a problem free little beast! Sold it with 260 hours to upgrade to a larger model. Looked at the MF 1825E, Kioti, & Bobcat… ended up buying a Kubota L2501HST. Super pleased. iMHO the JD 3E can’t compare to the 4 tractors I looked at & the one I ended up buying.
@@jdub229r I have to agree. I sold a GC2600 with almost 3000 hrs on it for $7000 just tractor and FEL. Nothing really wrong with it Bot it was time for a new one. My RK is just for moving manure and cleaning out the barn, I like the little bit of extra lift capability.
bought a New Holland workmaster 25s two years ago, love it , dad wasn't to keen on it , if he would cut his finger he would probably bleed green and yellow , NH was quite a bit less expensive than the Deere but still uses the yanmar diesel, to date one of my better investments !!
I work at a kubota dealer. All b3350’s have a lifetime campaign for the emissions issues on them. Still avoid if you can. They are fine if used in a commercial setting where running high rpm all the time. Not a good homeowner tractor though.
I believe Yanmar made Deere compact tractors from the 1980s to early 2000s, like the 650-850 series, 670-870 series and the 790. USA tractor manufacturing in the '70s and '80s excelled at the larger utility and ag tractors, and Japan was producing compacts (e.g., Kubota, Yanmar, Shibaura). Deere partnered with Yanmar, and Ford partnered with Shibaura to bring compact tractors into their product lines.
Yanmar still provides engines and other parts to deere even for the 22 1025r. They are assembled in the GA plant. Not sure why the big stink about it but to act like deere is any different than any other mass producer is silly at best.
i have a 650..with a front loader and a backhoe.. it is very useful and fits in tight spaces.. but it i an old school tractor. Bit jerky, brakes are meh....hydro is slow and weak compared to many newer machines.
I got a Deere 870. It’s a great little tractor, got the third hydraulic line with a grapple bucket. I just wish the front end loader was stronger, but it’s not a big tractor, so can’t expect too much. Really good on fuel.
Good video. There are a lot of people in my area (mostly retired) who bought/buy t small hobby farm tractors with big ideas, and get very little if any use out of them. They can be five or ten years old and still look like new. The problem is is that they often just want too much for them. Can't agree more; always buy quick easy bullet proof detachable everything because lining up pins or just poor designs like in the old days sucks.
I get the whole quick attach thing for loaders, but for some of us who bought when that craze was in its infancy we are really being segregated. As an example, I’m going to buy a pusher box next year for my BX. My choice is Landpride for my pin on arms. No one else makes anything. I would like something a bit heavier to offset the blower weight that effects steering. Sure I can spend an additional $650 for the adapter and get quick hitch, but that takes all my other attachments out of the mix without more switching the adapter off and on. Just frustrating for a tractor less than 10 years old and buying a new tractor is not in the cards.
The JDQA system has been quite popular and standardized almost all of their compact lineup since the late 90's. There were a few exceptions, but almost all included the JDQA. From my experience in having early 2000's Kubota's, they were much slower to catch on with upselling the convenience of the SSQA system. It's a shame that it took so long to make it commonplace. So, I can understand your frustration and that's why I point this out in so many videos. To help others avoid this same mistake. However, from a manufacturer's perspective, there isn't enough demand for every individual pinned setup or minimally produced q/a systems to warrant mass production. This would require a large engineering effort plus millions in additional inventory for most major mfg's. Simply not practical and I can't say I blame them for it. If the demand were there, then someone else would be producing products to match. Demand drives the market. It's an unfortunate situation without a painless answer.
As the oldest daughter, I inherited my Dad's 1990 John Deere 790, I think, in 2001. It looked brand new, with a little over 300 hrs on it. I thought he was going to cry when he broke a tail light several years after he got it. He swore he could tell the difference in the new one. He would borrow his brothers tractor for work that might damage his own tractor. He was raised on a farm in the 1940's, way back when the kids worked the crops by hand or with a horse or mule, before going to school. He was 50 before he got that tractor for his good sized garden. It was his proudest possession, and he babied it. If he knew how hard that we have used it, he would rise from his grave and tell me to park it. And don't get back on it, if i couldn't take better care, or be more careful with it, than that. I had been told that about 4 wheelers and his truck, if he thought that I was 'rawhiding' it. In 2000, when I was 40, I was still being questioned about a dent that I had put in his truck in 1975 when I was 15! He insisted that I wasn't telling him everything. And I wasn't, and never did tell him. My sister, a friend, and I had been somewhere we weren't supposed to be. And it wasn't even that bad, just looked bad. Backing out, I hit a pine tree and put a saucer sized dent in front of the right door. It left pine bark residue. That's why he kept questioning me. I'm guessing that he suspected that we weren't in town like we were supposed to be. Sorry, I got off topic. I could actually write more. Good memories I guess.
I own a Kubota 31 Grand 4x4. Great tractor.Besides hydraulic repair on front end loader ,no leaks or problems .It’s like 15 years old or more .Fully auto
Actually Branson Tractors makes ALL of the Deere tractors under 50 hp. This this is why the part number are all the same as Branson. However Deere uses yanmar engines and Branson uses their own and Mitsubisi. Just some helpful advice.. love your videos though..
Just a thought: If broken universal joints are prevalent on some models but they fail due to lack of preventive maintenance how is that a fault of the equipment? "Gosh I didn't know there were zerks on the u joints under there." A fault of the machine or a fault with the owner/maintainer? Perhaps reading the operators' manual would have been a good idea... I recently purchased a 2018 M62 (Kubota). I have zero experience with tractors but I inhaled the OM and found out a lot of things that could have caused me major problems. Like the zerk at the front wheel drive driveshaft. You need to pull a plug opposite the grease fitting to allow complete purging of the bearing. Just one example. I thoroughly enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Thank you.
Good point! I was taught in the military that they are called "TO's"(Technical Orders) & "TM's"(Tech Manuals) for a reason. Failure to read & obey the instructions that causes or leads to damage or degradation of the equipment's capabilities/functions is a punishable offense. One of my instructor's told us about an overhaul crew that failed to follow proper instructions & procedures of jacking up the bedplate for crankshaft alignment on a large power plant prime mover (200kVA) that caused a catastrophic failure just a few hrs into operation. They were ALL punished with Courts Martials with varying punishments, based on their positions/rank. Unka Sugar don't like having to pay big for preventable screw-ups & you shouldn't either. Pay attention to the details & READ the manuals & go online to gather pertinent data for your investment. As the old mechanic's commercial said, "you can pay me a little now, or pay me a LOT later!" The prepared make their OWN luck.😉🤠
P.s. @GoodWorksTractors I must have missed something, because the video is titled "5 tractors to avoid". I only counted three. Is there two more I missed?
I didn't find your channel and website till after I bought my 1023e and your videos and overall love of your 1025r basically same tractor make me never second-guess buying that thing one of the best investment I ever made I'll have it for the rest of my life all the attachments are always be useful cost a bunch but only pay for them for a couple years and tractors are cool
I had a 2005 Deere 2305 that was nearly flawless, it had one small issue with the throttle cable that was covered under warranty. I did all the maintenance myself, yearly, and just sold it this past May. I did hear there were transmission problems with some of the 2305 models, but I never experienced that issue either. I replaced it with a brand new 2025R that I had to wait about 3 months for. I love the size and weight of the new tractor, but the FEL doesn't seem as sturdy as the one from my 2305.
My dad had a 2007 Kubota BX24 had that thing for 13 years with not one issue with it. Aside from the fuel filter jelling up when I was plowing my driveway and the two back tires blew out due to dry rot otherwise it ran like a champ. We had a hydraulic plow, a York rake, and front loader and back loader he got $18,500 for it.
I would love to see you compare some of these smaller brands. I haven’t owned a newer John Deere but I’ve owned stuff from the late 70’s mostly garden tractors. I haven’t been impressed with the Deere quality lately from friends who have bought new. Plus my local Deere dealer is a pain to deal with. Purchased a brand new Branson 22hp (tym24) this last year. Love the tractor and didn’t see another $4-$5000 in value in green or orange. Even though the kubota dealer is literally in my backyard. I believe the dealer makes all the difference, love working with my local dealer and they’re expanding like crazy because their customer service is top notch. Dealer beats brand in my opinion every time. But I would love to see some comparisons between Massey, Branson, kubota and so on, on your channel. Instead of mostly seeing Deere and products.
I just watched the older video last night. Good info. I've considered turning the 1025r in for a 3E or 3D (3R is just a bit expensive right now) but I cannot get past the fixed loader and loader mounted joystick.
I've been working on a lot of tractors last 10 years. The only way I would own a Kubota is if I'm about to resell it. I do like the John Deere, they are solid hard-working tractors. But they are way overpriced. When people ask me what tractor I'll suggest 30 horsepower and up. That would be a Branson. They are strong solid tractors and a whole lot cheaper than John Deere
Good stuff Cortney, while I don't know anything about Yanmar tractors I do like the Yanmar engines that John Deere contracted for the J.D. tractors. The first one I had was way back 1986. I bought a new compact J.D. 3025e with yet another Yanmar motor. Their awesome engines. I'm kinda interested in a Bobcat tractor. They seem to be a beefy machine with a lot of pep.
After a year of research and many miles driving to different dealers, I settled on a good used 2019 Kioti CK2510HST with 190hrs instead of the CK2610HST I wanted but didn’t have in stock and I can’t get over how powerful and the amount of work the 2510 has done. Best of all, best in class by far, it’s lifting capacity. Kioti makes a helluva tractor
I have a 2007 John Deere 2305. It is a gem.The drive shaft is hard to get to but I use a needle attachment to my pneumatic grease gun and a headlamp and it's a lot easier. I also grease all the fittings on my tractor every 10 hours or so.
1988 kubota L2850 couldn’t recommend it more it’s been a excellent tractor. Never a problem I recently bought it but know it’s history. 1700 hours no issues.
Thanks for mentioning my JD790, haven’t had the opportunity to mow with it yet, also still looking for suitcase weights local to stabilize front end. Good video as usual!
Go look into the world of yachts. Smaller ones. The engines are all either yanmar or kubota, in either case they are quality engines. Larger yachts use john deere engines all the time. Sometimes as the main engine and a wing engine, sometimes it just the wing engine or just the main engine.
I just bought a 1023E with a mower deck only. (No loader) I have a 70HP JD with a loader that can pickup everything I need it to. I didn't need a small loader but I liked the idea of a small tractor to pull a wagon or use on a small tiller, boxblade, and bush hog.
I know this video is 2 years old and I just bought my first Kubota but I was actually an engineer for the company that makes all the implements for the John Deere compact and subcompact tractors. yanmar does make the engines in the small John Deere's
When I wanted to upgrade from a Kubota L3410 to a cab tractor the B3350 was first on my list. Even back in 2016 I didn't have to look very long to discover it was a nightmare machine. I ended up with The L4060 and man is it a joy to operate! On a side note, those UHMW Polyethylene plow edges I got from you are working out great.
It’s not a bad machine, I’ve got over 250 hours on a loaded b3350 primary issues are bad safety switches and user error when running regen. See my main post.
Auction tractors are just JUNK !!!!!!! 99 out of a hundred, are just beat to death. Best to buy something from a original owner and pay a little extra and will be better off in the long run. The video is really right on fella.
It was the 80’s through about 2006 that deere used yanmar for compacts. 755/855 ect were yanmar built tractor. They still use Yanmar engines in many compact subcompact models. Part of the JD Yanmar exclusive was marketing in NA, Yanmar was unable to or very limited to there branding in the NA market as long as they wanted to keep supplying JD. This is a huge reason Yanmar is seen as a small/new brand in NA. They are and oem suppler.
What he said 100% true . You can't grease a u joint that you don't know about . The 2210 of course has the same driveshaft issue. Keep them greased and you'll be fine
I’ve got a 1947 8N and it does great, don’t require a lot of maintenance and you don’t have the computers to throw random codes at you and I’ve got a guy that sells all the parts I need for it
I may have missed them but only counted 2 specific models. An AC12 was the only new tractor bought for our ranch (laughing) in 1960. A tenant and I cleaned it up and drove it to Moms place in town so they would have a tractor to scrape and/or disk weeds in her small orchards front and back. Currently there is 1 Fordson with steel wheels because some dirtbag stole the other one. A 40s Cat RD22 and D6 both orchard style. Did you know you can get a 'flat' driving a tracklayer? The Belarus tractor we sold at scrap prices. JD 300b large loader and either gannon or brush hog scraper on back. And the newest manufactured year of 1978 we bought in 2005 from a retiring backhoe single proprietor that spent its whole life with him doing foundation, drainage and other things in Carmel Valley. Case 580CK extendahoe that is teaching me why you need to operate, not just start, the equipment every 2 to 3 months. The JD was a foreclosure 'nickel' auction up near Davis if memory serves. I don't recall the brand name of Belarus made 4x4 and the only oil in front hubs was machine shop cutting oil. No dam* lube, grease... A tenant who was raising cattle was bringing it back from something driving backwards. I asked him what in the world and he said it stopped and wouldn't go forward. No noise, clunk, sound of shearing metal nor any other noise that always goes with the hub, U joints and front drive shaft(s) snapping.
Have a Branson (stupid name--but actually Kukje/South Korea, recently purchased by TYM. Assemble engines for Cummins)) 2400H. They tout their stoutness/weight of steel and it does feel sturdy. Powdercoat finish is nicely done and of course durable. As with most 24hp engines it is not what I would call the Lexus of tractor engines--virtually imperceptible--in fact it is typically hard starting, smoky, and feels unrefined. No quick attach loader bucket, but retro kits are available. Mid mower is a PITA to install/remove. However, I have a state-of-the-art Italian-made Peruzzo hydraulic flail embankment mower, and it is a beast, but it is not a finish mower but more of a mulcher--and mulch it does. Branson price point is of course lower than JD, but a big drawback with Branson is the miniscule dealer network. if you have a dealer relatively nearby, great but if not nearby (I am in Chicago and bought from a dealer in Oklahoma--BTW, very unresponsive) do what I do: All maintenance /repairs myself. And don't even think about contacting the Branson headquarters in Rome, Georgia as you might as well be calling Korea. ALthough, I did come across a Parts guy, Eric, there and he is willing and helpful. Hate: Fuel port on hood. Hydrostatic peddles too close together. Inefficient headlights--as with most. Hard shifting 2-speed gearbox and PTO choice. Mid and Rear PTO's on same valve so you can't use your 3-pt lowered as mower drops as well, so you have to remove it: Hassle. Went with turf tires: Mistake. Will probably switch to Courtney's suggested Carlysle tires. From all of that you would think I am unhappy with the tractor but in fact overall I am not as I find it capable and durable. But I would much rather be in the 35-39hp engine range. Update: Purchased from auction, another same year 2400H. They said inoperable and had been in a rollover. Determined it had not rolled over but hit something sturdy which bent the FEL attachment and clutch rod. Rewelded the FEL piece, and ordered a clutch rod but instead of removing the engine and clutch housing, I cut off rod end and welded the end piece in place. Blend air, new battery and now runs very well. Also has a cad, quick release skid steer function, snowblower and front hydraulics (I added rear hydraulics to my other tractor. What's weird is the two 2400H tractors are subtly different: different dash graphics, an extra safety switch, quick attach skid steer function.
great video. I'm not looking for another tractor but I almost bought that Kubota a few years back. The dealer was the one to steer me away from it into another tractor.
My local John Deere dealer only sell their sub compact tractors WITHOUT a loader, and the loader is a $AU6000 option. Not sure about the US, but we get a lot of Chinese Dump and Run tractor brands. Cheap tractors, supplied with 5 attachments, mad you end up with no after sales services. In Melbourne, there's UHI, and in Adelaide, there's Trident, and this one Adelaide dealership is the only dealership that sells Tridents.
Only reason I could see not wanting a loader is if I already have one or several tractors with loaders and I just wanted a basic tractor to do one specific job while the rest I used for everything else. This is also assuming I could actually afford that lol.
I farm & have bigger machines. Some neighbors sent me this as they wanted to get rid of newer Deere’s due to so many issues. I told them I’d dig in. Vid said “deere not made by Yanmar” but I believe almost all of their smaller tractors are made in India, Mexico, etc. It might not be yanmar but I believe it’s same plants as others like mahindra possibly? Are we sure Deere’s smaller tractors are not made with others in oversea factories & branded deere? One other side comment on new vs old… old has a HUGE advantage of not being chalked full of the emissions stuff that causes most farmers I know constant issues - full tier 4. Older tractors have less electronics to fail & little to no expensive & problematic emissions systems on them. The newer small tractors I’ve looked all also had very cheap cast steel I’ve seen break many times, disposable tires, cheap plastic parts, etc. All of them felt & looked like a “Chinese made” type of item. Anyways - good luck on whatever you do but sure don’t rule out a low hour 10 year old tractor that has a real likelihood of giving you far less grief than new.
Yes, positive that compact Deere aren't made overseas. There's a couple videos on RUclips touring the USA plants. That misconception has been put to rest time and time again. 10 year old, low hour tractors are a rare find. That's what everyone wants. They are a real treat when you come across them. Often times, they command a premium, at least those that I've sold. The only Tier 4 system I've had an issue with is the B3350. Thanks for watching! EDIT: Plus you're a farmer. Different market. The compact market has a different demographic. Most can't/won't/don't repair their own equipment. Different skill set in life. Older equipment is valued more by those that can repair themselves.
@@GoodWorksTractors good to know!!! I do have 2 “medium size deere” 6000 series - one from Mexico (D model) & Germany made the “M” I have. Biggest R models 8000 series made in iowa. Yep- Ag vs consumer I knew had different dynamics. Love my 2012 & older machines. Thanks for the reply & getting the info correct! Passed this video on to a few buddies switching machines so they will appreciate it.
@@GoodWorksTractors its amazing & worth the wait!!!! It was a slower season for most the state but it’s incredible here. Wish the surrounding states would mimic what iowa does. Enjoy it when u draw!!!! Do your homework just like those looking at tractors ;). &…. 2 of the guys I’m looking into tractors for…. For their deer hunting farms! Need to keep these guys running so I don’t need to bale them out as much! 🤯🥳
@@Iowa_Whitetail I was just about to mention I think what you already said. Deere sells a lot of tractors that are "Assembled" in the USA from global parts, or some are made in Mexico like the 5/6D series or the 03 series before that. We run older 5000 series Deeres and they've all been decent but from some newer Deeres I've run on other farms I don't know if the quality is there anymore on some of the newer series.
Love your videos! I've learned so much. I would absolutely buy a tractor from you but I'm in Washington state! I will keep watching though. Thanks for all the great information!
John Deere 2210 has the same drive shaft. Had 600 hours on it before I ever knew about those u-joints. Luckily changed them before anything bad happened. Wait till your power steering assembly leaks. There's another great time. It's a discontinued part
Surprised to see a John Deere on here. I'm seeing a pattern here, avoid the 2300 series. I have a buddy who has had his 2210 he bought brand new over 10 years ago, and it's been through a lot and came back just as good as ever. He takes good care of his tractors.
We looked at a lot of small tractors, but none were made in US for what we wanted (jd was made in India). I'd read that kioti has engine issues, but I like my TYM kuikje engine. It's bare bones, a throw back to how engines used to be made... to RUN and not monkey with DEF. Id rather have something I can fix myself than have to run it to a dealer for a computer check 🤔😁
I just purchased a Kioti 2610. I have friends who run tractors for a living, the 2610 won hands down. I use it on my property, and and farming a little. I shopped for 5 years. I got the backhoe. Very nice to operate.
I stopped in at a New Holland/Kioti dealer this weekend because it was between the John Deere and Kubota dealers. I would have never even considered them, but was impressed with the CK3510SE. The JD we ended up looking at (3033R) was made in Canada. The Kioti was made in Wendell, NC with a loader from South Korea, so more "American" than the JD.
I am one of the nostalgic guys, kind of. I didn't need w big tractor to maintain my 4 acres. the Property has been complete for 25 years. I just needed minimal maintenance and up keep. I bought and restored a John Deere 430, not the big one. It took me a year to restore and source everything. It is complete minus a 44 loader. If you find one it is rusted into the ground and someone still wants new money for it. I decided to build a FELand bought blueprints from PF engineering. Well I sat on them too long because I was buying $1500 complete PTOs for the tractor and other costly unicorn parts. After two years and a beautiful "tractor" with a snow blade I'm done hunting for a loader and a 48" tiller. I am literally going today and buying one of the Korean compacts. I have done tons of research not to mention everything I learned restoring the John Deere and I feel confident that I made the right decision. Now I cant decide if I want to keep the JD just because, or sell it. I am in the little tractor $6000.
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Any thoughts on the “Zetor” compact tractors? I guess the compacts are made in Korea along with many other brands, and the large industrial versions made in Czechoslovakia but can't find much info on them.
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What do you think of the Massey Ferguson 1825E?
So you say 5 worst tractors but you only give us 3!
@@Rattlerjake1 It's types of tractors, the 3 specific models are bonuses. It's very clear if you listen.
Love my Kioti 3510 SE. it has a great lift capacity dual rear remotes that were not add ones and a front hook up for my grapple. Skid steer attachment ready and Daedong is a great diesel engine. Thousand’s cheaper than some of the others and a lot more tractor for the money. You gotta give one a look if your serious about getting a tractor !!!
I bought my farm off foreclosure and the old owner sold me the equipment. A JD 4310 was in the mix but it has a push blade instead of a loader. Took me years to find an affordable tractor with a loader, a 4610 with a backhoe! I never realized how all around useful a front bucket would be. Best piece of equipment..
All good advice. Tried keeping an older tractor (1978 IH 574) to use around the property for mowing, driveway work, etc. Unless you use them every day, they quickly become a maintenance and dependability problem. I couldn't use mine every day and my "Old Farmer" wrenching skills had faded long ago. It left the property and a 2015 JD 4052 (w/ FEL!) took its place. I -- and my knuckles -- do not regret the change.
Thanks for sharing your experience Mike!
I bought 2 months ago a brand new 2022 Boncat ct2025 and I work it hard and have been super impressed. They're built much heavier and stronger than a comparable john deere. No complaints yet
At the age of 9 I was tasked twice each year to plow 15 acres using a 1940 international model A with a single bottom plow. Learned how to be patient.
Try doing it with the horse walking behind plow holding on to the handles, yes, not 15 acres, but....
I was 12 yrs old and had a 1948 model. When people asked how I spent my time on weekends and after school I tell them they will find it very boring.
In regards to the horses comment I would say "Who do you think was training them to do all of the work?". . .that would have been me. I was woken up way too early and taken to heard disbursement sales when farms were being foreclosed on and all of the livestock was going or remote auctions and I had to pick out what horses had decent conformation and minds to be worth loading in the trailer to take home. Then I had to train them and either sell or keep for their intended purpose based on body and mind. I had 1 horsepower!!!
This past summer I bought a 2007 Kubota b7610 with 480hrs for about 9400 CAD about 7500 USD. No loader but I think it was a good deal, my buddy is paying almost the same for a new motor in his BX that he rolled. I got it as dedicated 3 point attachment tractor, brush hog, tiller, rear blade etc and maybe pulling a trailer around once in a while. Needed it to have more ground clearance than my 1025r for my uneven and wet areas. Always a great start to my day with a Good works video.
We have owned a 2010 JD 2320 since it was new. It has been a true workhorse. I did cut a hole in the side panel to access the u-joint as the forum recommended. The only problem we have had is a dead battery some 5 years ago. Hopefully it will serve us well for years to come.
If you are greasing the U-joint then it isn't a problem. the issue is they never said that it even existed in the manual and people didn't know to grease them. They tended to blow up around the 500 hour mark and when they went they took a lot of things with them and even if they didn't people had to move the engine to get the new U-joint in. I have a 2320 as well and it is a pain to get at it. I am thinking about cutting a hole in there because you have to take the bolts out of the dash and move it up to get to the steel cover plate to be able to get in there with a needle attachment. I have toyed with selling the tractor just for the pain of servicing it.
@@vsteel it’s not hard with factory u-joints with a long grease gun with a needle fitting. Even easier if the factory u-joints are replaced with a u-joint on the cap like a Moog 410 has (can get these for less than $30). And really the u-joint repair isn’t all that hard, just a little time consuming. The 2320 is such a nice small machine in its class. Ergonomics are spot on and it’s very capable. Yanmar made is Japan. This model will last a lifetime if properly cared for.
Thanks for taking a position on these tractors. Most would not do that so it's a good thing your doing here. You may have just saved someone some serious money. Good job.
Thanks for your Honesty. You Sir are 1 of a kind . I'm in the market for a new tractor something around 40 to 50 HP. I was looking at LS d but now I just don't know. I love Jonh Deere but thar proprietary stuff burns 🔥 my Backside. I've thought about a Kubota but it don't think I need the mid pro because I have a giant Ferris Z turn that's been Flawless that suspension works and the cut is PERFECT. IF You but a Ferris z turn order the oem blades off ebay new you'll save a minimum of a $135 over dealer and same with belts and those caster wheels on the deck. I receive NOTHING from Ferris but if you're looking to buy a Great Z turn Try it and get the springy seat I didn't, and I wasn't forking out $899 at the time. The reason I even brought up the seat I don't think you Coffee would have A RIPPLE in it. It's great without the Cushion seat it would be just Awesome with it.
Always enjoy your videos. I owned a 2305 for several years and performing maintenance on it was easy and had no problems. Now own a 1025R that I have some issues with. Hydraulic leaks, 3 point position control failure (John Deere stood behind their product and fixed) and the blasted breaking seat suspension (that John Deere says there are no issues with but the 2021 1025Rs have a much improved ,stronger seat suspension) but I still love my tractor. I encourage anyone new to tractors or buying a new model or brand to watch RUclips channels like good works tractors and read related forums. There's lots of information on all Brands and models.
My 3025E (2019) had 3 point position errors. I was able to fix it; there's a silver-colored metal shaft with two nuts on it that moves forward and backward when the rocker arms change position. This controls the other side of the hydraulic valve from the control lever. The nuts were loose, and so the tractor didn't accurately "know" the position. Manually pushed on the rod until the 3 point reached its max travel (the engine lugged, and I backed it off just until it didn't). Tightened the nuts down, and it was good to go. Thing is, they still come loose. Easy fix, just annoying.
@@soundman1402 my 3 point issue turned out to be cut rock shaft cylinder o rings. Dealer and John Deere took care of it quickly now good to go. However, when the tractor came back there's a slight hydraulic leak at the sump screen fitting (o ring) dealer offered to come right out but it so small I told him not to worry about it until next service. But then I remembered that it just was serviced! Dang it!
"No loader, no deal." I couldn't agree more! When I told my Kioti dealer that I didn't require a loader, he assured me that I DID! In fact, he said if I didn't want my loader, six months in, he would buy it back.
I use my loader every day on my farm... i agree
i bought a used kubota BX2350 a few years back..... it didnt include a loader. i added one later, and found it to be very useful.
Sounds like he did you a big favor!
Get the forks attachment. You'll use them more than the bucket.
@@PamMullinax-q2c I bought pallet forks (my dealer calls them "poor man's grapple." They're very useful, but I use my Everything Attachments grapple more than anything!
Honestly I really like the 1025r and the 1023e, the problem with them is their transmissions. There's a very common problem with them leaking. Which takes about 20 hours to fix. This happens because they don't use gaskets, they use liquid loctite sealer. I'm not kidding about 5 out of 10 of them leak withing the first 100 hours or so. Just be very careful and always be looking for leaks so you can get it fixed before your warranty expires.
I bought a jd 2320 October 2019, knew about the ujoint issue ahead of time. Deal was fantastic, selling dealer maintained and it was traded back to the selling dealer, which I bought it from. Ujoints had been done by said dealer, around 300 hours. I decided after much thought, I'd do them again last year, wasn't anything wrong with them, just figured it was cheap insurance. It's a fantastic tractor, if you are aware of this issue. I've had zero problems in the 2 years I've had it, and it hasn't been babied; this is my lawnmower, and whatever project workhorse.
Awesome, glad to hear it. You bought it the right way in my opinion. Did your homework.
Did the new U- joints have grease zerks? I like to use a quality synthetic grease. I always ask for the best part i can buy.
@@jimolson8424 yes. Only downside is having to take the floorboard up to grease, minor inconvenience tho. It'll only need done once a year, use a quality grease, no worries.
@@seanitaliano8759 I can get to my grease fittings from the underside of my 2320. It’s tight and you need a long hard pipe on the grease gun to reach. I replaced my original u-joints with Moog 410’s. There are several similar. Napa has a 410 ujoint which is the same. The grease fitting is in one of the u-joint caps.
Great information. As an old Ford and Alis user since the 1970s (learned how to drive on an 8N...and plow fields at the same time) and a current Kubota owner, you really break it down quickly. Thank you!
If you're into 8n/9n fords(I am not!), you can buy every single part on them. Seems to me they were more trouble free than the modern tractors though. Keep the fluids changed, lube what needs lubed... make sure they get clean air. So unbelievably simple. I grew up on farmall and it's the same story. seems like more complex maintenance to me in the new stuff with hydro transmission, pollution control, etc. I went with IH B414 for our homestead because the engines were strong, dependable, common, and parts availability. They're not that hard to figure out if you have a book.
I wouldn't buy a new tractor to save my life
The tractor of death lol
@@robbiefrentz9427 just don't hitch to the top link for drawbar work...and realize bad brakes are just a way of life.
@@matthewtaylor2185 don’t forget the overrun clutch it drove me straight into a ditch lol.
@@robbiefrentz9427 yeah, I'm not a big fan of over run clutches...I have used one with my 6ft bush hog on a farmall 230. It will let you stop, but changing gears is still a waiting game(at least with mine). I would rather have a drag behind bush hog rather than 3pt on old machines so you still have steering...then I am double cautious about what I drive the tractor into! Ha ha! Other than that they're great!
Can't afford the green ones. If it has plastic fenders, hoods etc, keep it. The biggest thing most need to decide is how long can you wait to get it fixed. A production tractor vs a hobbyist can make some decisions easier. As I got older I knew it was getting dangerous to use a clutch, so I got a used hydro.
I'm with you, on the NO Plastic Hoods especially! When you're lifting large chunks of Snowbanks out of the way with a Loader, there's inevitably going to be pieces that fall back onto the Hoods!
@@balanced4harvest552 i have a BX2350. it has been a decent tractor but the plastic fantastic isnt so fantastic. i treat the body panels like they are made out of eggshells
I live on a homestead where I still use my grandfathers 1947 International Farmall C every year for field work. Old thing will never die. Just put a new set of brake bands on her and she’s good to go again. Around the more civilized parts of the property I use a JD 2320 with an auger, front bucket, belly mower and snowblower. Luckily, the U-joint issue was discovered by my constant use of RUclips several years ago. So I had the original u-joint replaced and now grease the new joint 2-3 times a year depending on how much and where we utilize the tractor. As my grandfather always said “The right amount of grease will keep a machine running forever.”
How has it not rusted out?
Thanks for making this video. I purchased a 2015 LS XG 3037 as my first tractor and I have to say that I traded it in last year for a red cab tractor with air conditioner which is great but I really miss my blue tractor because it never had to go back to the dealer for any failures and I put over 700 hours of land clearing and moving dirt with this little blue tractor. It had more than enough power to do anything I wanted it to do and believe me I was not nice to this tractor. Last year I got heat stroke twice while working on my property in Central Florida and for health reasons I had to make an upgrade but I wish I could have found a blue enclosed tractor with AC unfortunately during covid there were none to be found. Thanks always for your great videos and reviews.
Have a LS.. great tractor.. never had a problem
I work for kubota dealership and the b3350 is covered under warranty for the dpf and reformer, if you did your research about it you would know, however these are great tractors but it due to operators negligence of not running the machine correctly
I have a 3350 kubota won’t warranty it they stopped that at 400 hours
Whether or not you need a loader depends on what you’re doing, and your budget. I ended up for going a front in loader and as a result with my same budget I was able to get a much bigger and stronger tractor. The main use I bought my tractor for was grading a quarter mile long dirt driveway. Had I got a much smaller tractor with a front and loader it never would’ve done the job, for example that rinky-dink little John Deere 1025. So in my case I’m very happy without it but I’m not saying that they aren’t useful it’s just a matter of. What do you need and how much money do you have.
Thanks for another great video. I appreciate that even though you are a Kubota and John Deere fan, you pull no punches and show no bias in listing the tractors to avoid. The New Holland dealership we are dealing with is unfortunately 120 miles away, but living in an isolated community leaves little option.
Frank, the economy is getting hard for small tractors. The local Kobota dealership closed up some months ago. They were in business were over 30 years, but the new tractors and parts are not readily available. Other dealerships in the area are John Deere, Case IH (but not compact or subcompact), and New Holland. I have a small Case IH 24DXe (24 hp) diesel equipped with the FEL. I've used it for over ten years but no longer need it; I got all my digging done.
@goodworktractors my dad has owned two Kubotas and there hasn't been any major issues. His first was a 2007 Kubota BX24 thing ran like a champ. Had that for 13 years he sold it to get the LX2610 that Kubota he has now is a beautiful machine.
The yanmar diesels are some of the best diesels made. I’d much rather have a yanmar engine. than a John Deere engine.
I use a 425hp engine.
Think i need green.
I wish more equipment came with deutz engines. Arguably the most reliable engines to ever exist.
John Deere owns yanmar, most of their small tractor engines are yanmar diesels....
@@isaiahj9827 deere doesn't own yanmar. They have a production agreement. That's it. Yanmar Holdings owns yanmar. John Deere owns a john Deere. End of story.
@@isaiahj9827 this
As far as letting people know what tractors may have a history of problems, THAT, is actually a good thing! Other RUclips vids have given the same tractors as example, and (since I'm looking for a good used 40hp tractor) that has given me the lead I needed to look up ANY problems on whatever tractor I'm interested in!
Growing up on older tractors have taught me that trying to adapt hydraulics, live power pto, loader and all the other nice additions they were never built with, involves more in time and money than it is worth!
Another GREAT video, Courtney! Your insights are helpful!
You may want to explore each companies “Right to Repair Policy” before looking for a fixer upper.
I work on several tractors, and the parts prices on John Deere have went through the roof, they rape you at the parts counter, and watch the electronics, it breaks down it's gonna cost big. The one that impressed me has been the Kioti, bought one 29 years ago and it will out live me. Seen several issues with Kubota loaders and ring and pinions on the hydrostatic models.
Lots of talk about parts price and availability for the Kioti and Mahindra. What us your opinion on it. The new tractors is like Mercedes Benz, look great, but full of junk parts, emissions control handcaped the manufactories. I'm having a second thought on buying new ones. I think 2018 and prior may be the best years.
The older tractors are far more dependable, electronics on the newer tractors and larger equipment may be cool when it works, but a nightmare when it quits, parts for John Deer are insane high, I needed some bearings and seals for the front drive hub on a mid sized JD, couldn't buy them,had to buy the entire assy, $5.200 dollars,it said made in India on the new part.
@@ronwest4522 Wow! That hurts. At the end, after watching many YT videos, googlelinng, regarding all the brands, new kids on the block and all, my two choices are Kubota or New Holland. NH dealer nearby, 6 miles, been there for 80 years, and price. Kubota, reliable, no parts issues, the dealer is a little far, 40 minutes drive, but Kubota makes the tractors.
in 2018 when we were looking at the subcompact tractors, I hadn't heard of TYM so I avoided them. Kubota was much too expensive, Kioti had a lackluster representation from the dealer so we narrowed it down to Deere or Massey. I wanted the tractor, loader, and backhoe only. Deere wanted $26k and would not change the backhoe to operate like an excavator stating it would void the warranty. Massey wanted $21K and re routed the hoses for my operating style, with no issues and full warranty. Obviously we went with Massey GC1710. Amazing and everything we need.
🤔 help me understand what you mean when you say you wanted the backhoe to operate like an excavator. I am top notch hoe man. So please explain because I must be missing something. Thanks
TYM (Tong Yang Manufacturing) actually makes some Mahindra tractors. They bought out my favorite small hp tractor manufacturer, Kujukie from South Korea, marketed as Branson Tractors here in the USA. I have a 40 hp that is 20 years old and I use it daily. It is my rake tractor during hay season and brush hog, and pto log splitter the rest of the year. It has been a reliable machine. I also have a John Deere 2550 cab tractor for mowing and baleing. It's been good too.
My 2515H is a little beast, will out lift ANY thing in it's HP range.
I bought a TYM 474..great tractor
500 hours, nothing but oil, filter. And grease. Shes a honey. Love the Tym compared to kubota. 474 is rock solid. It uses the cummins designed engine and has power to spare.
Classic tractors are dirt simple to work on. If you are at all handy, they can be a good value. But be sure to use your skill to look it over before purchase.
I bought a 1968 Ford 5000. Before I handed over the $$, I went over it carefully. Some of the electrics were in rough shape, but that's easy to fix. I knew I needed to rebuild the carb, and again, that is fairly easy. Big things like clutch, engine compression, etc. were all fine, so I knew it needed nothing major.
In the end, I upgraded many things such as replacing the points with an electronic ignition, replacing all the lights with LEDs, and such. Paid $6k for the machine and put maybe another $1k into it. I now have a 67hp tractor that is built like a tank. I've already been offered $14k+ for it, so I know it's holding its value. But the real value is that I have a serious machine to do serious work.
Oh, and New, Old, Stock (i.e. the parts) are not impacted by the Supply Chain issues. The 50yo radiator burst last winter and I had a new one at my door in 3 days. Yes, there are some parts that are hard to find like power steering cylinders and distributor caps, but I had researched this kind of stuff before hand.
I've had a JD 2305 for over 15yrs and had no problems with it. I do get it serviced regularly. Great tractor!
Awesome! I'm happy to be picking up my first 2305 on Saturday. Only 468 hours!
I've owned a JD 2305 since 2007. The driveshaft u-joints are a challenge to get to. However, if you keep an eye on them and do the maintenance it's really not a problem. I replaced the entire driveshaft assembly last year as a precaution. As with any machine: do the maintenance and you'll eliminate 99% of your problems!
The challenge is to know you need to do maintenance on a part. If it isn't in the manual how would you know?
@@Harry-zz2oh You are correct: Deere screwed up on this one. But be inquisitive. Understand and explore how your machine works. Follow forums and RUclips channels like this one. And, sometimes, experience is the hardest teacher!
1025r owner here. I spend way too much time underneath mine just looking. By doing so I know what things should look like and hopefully will catch something before it becomes an issue.
@@Harry-zz2oh You know by looking for grease nipples. Just like looking for loose bolts, damage, etc. my mechanic dad never taught me to look in the manual for grease nipples, he taught me to look at the moving parts. The u-joints are a common one that get missed on many vehicles. If you can't catch something if it's not in the manual, someone else should be servicing your stuff.
I have a b3350 with cab, front loader and backhoe. I work that thing like it’s a red headed step child. The primary issues I’ve since disabled due to starting and staying running have all been related to safety switches. If you jump out the seat switch and the Hydostat trans pedals this will cure random non-start and dying when bouncing in seat. As for the DPF regen, if you run the motor above 2000 rpm you will seldom if ever need to do a park in place regen. If you live in a cold area and have issues you must remove an intake baffle to allow preheated intake air into the engine to keep dpf hot enough. A company in Poland sells a DPF delete kit but I think right now at 250 hours I don’t need it. If you get a deal on a low hour b3350, I’d take it. Mine was included with our house, if I ever leave it will go with me as the house appraisal is above the mortgage without a tractor. I look at it as $30k profit and a free toy to build sand castles all day long 😁😉🇺🇸🪵🚜
All true enough. I block the radiator in cold weather. Haven’t had a regen problem. But, I only operate it above 20 degrees F
Twenty-five years ago I bought a Mitsubishi MT210D from the early 1908s. It is tall and skinny, loud, lacks power steering and is indestructible. Twenty-five days ago I bought a 20-year-old Kubota B7500. The moral of the story: if it still runs well after two decades it will last many more years. And new is, well, boring.
Couldn't help but notice the "REMINGTON" tractor parts on the bench behind you. Some of those parts were hard to find for a while so we had better stock up on them when we find them. Great video BYW.
Loved my Mahindra, but hated the parts situation. Parts just weren't available. Hopefully they've improved that, but we had to wait six weeks for some front axel seals. I sold it to a good friend at a serious discount and got at John Deere 1025R.
HAD THE. SAME SITUATION DURING THE. EARLY DAYS. OF. COVID , VARIOUS DEALERS COULDN'T GET PARTS , CALLED MAHINDRA ------ DIDN'T GET ANYWHERE , TOLD THAT PART MAKERS CLOSED DOWN BECAUSE OF COVID .
***** MAYBE MAHINDRA SHOULD HAVE LET DEALERS DESIGNATE THEIR VARIOUS NEW TRACTORS AS **** PARTS TRACTORS -------- DEALERS REPLACING THOSE PARTS THEN LATER DISCOUNTING THOSE TRACTORS FOR SALE ????????
***** TRADED MY MAHINDRA FOR ANOTHER BRAND .
Wow you talk fast. Good info. I looked at the bobcat and LS for a while, even Massy Fergussen. I landed on the 1025R for John Deere innovation and dealer access. I am very satisfied with the choice I made. Keep up the "Good Works".
I have a rk55 year and half old 900 plus hours . Baled 598 round bales 1000lbs pound. I have not had one problem with this tractor at all .very good heat ,ac is a must if you want a good tractor I would buy again thank you all for your time!
I am addicted to these videos. Based on the last video of what to avoid, I bought a kubota 2501. Couldn’t be happier. 3 hours moving snow just to get out of my driveway. Wouldn’t have made it without my tractor. It’s been a challenge finding implements for it. There is a huge market right now for cat 1. Keep them up Courtney. Thanks.
My best advise is to purchase a tractor large enough to NOT have universal joints in the drive line. I know you think you need a small category 0 but you really don't. Go ahead and get a small category 1 with a solid drive line (no u joints).
Good info thanks. My problem with tractor warranties, the dealers see you coming a mile away & they're ready to rumble (if you will) over not honoring your warranty. There's not much we can do but you better be prepared for a fight.
Speaking of the John Deere 2305, the 2210 is SUPER SIMILAR! If you're not up for tearing apart the operator station and replacing the U-joints (or worse, the whole main drive shaft)... DO NOT BUY IT!
Had to do that on mine, wasn't hard but took some time with getting parts. There are a few videos floating around on the procedure if you're interested (DEBOSS Garage has a particularly good one)
It’s not that hard, but takes a little while, 4-6 hours for someone not familiar with the repair. You need $20 worth of tools, and 2 $30 unjoints with grease fittings on the outside and problem is solved. Many RUclips videos and instructions on green tractor website to walk anyone with a little bit of common sense to complete the task. Deere did modify the manual down the road, but they did mess up initially. This issue is really so overblown. The 2210, 2305 and 2320 are some of the best small tractors out there. They are a Yanmar built in Japan tractors and should last a lifetime. Just replace the u-joints if you are unsure if they were maintained and you have a dandy if a machine. Better quality than most in their class, even new machines.
@@chesterinflorida1567 I agree. I have wanted a 1025R or even 1023E for several years, but I came to realize that I'll never justify one at current prices. I started looking at the 2305 and learned about all potential problems. I found a tractor with 468 hours that has only been used for loader duty, and has never had the rear 3-pt or either PTO used. An old guy decided he needed a new tractor one day. I laid under it, there's zero movement in the U-joints and there is evidence they've been greased, looks like it was done regularly. The tractor looks like new throughout. I've talked to guys that have them and they love them. I'm not going to be scared away because one dealer had one that he didn't investigate thoroughly. I'm looking forward to years of happy service from my 2305.
I bought a Massey Ferguson gc 1723 a year ago, Excellent small tractor and my dealer is second to none. Tried to go green but couldn't get a call back from their dealer, Thy seem to be to busy selling tractors to our government !
Another great video
Just wanted to tell you that along with the 2305 John Deere, the John Deere 2210 also had the problems with the the driveshaft and I learned the hard way. Just something to look out for when buying one.
I'm a girl and have been looking in the used market and when it doesn't have a loader I basically am like "next" and when it does I am still looking to make sure that things are not rusted and all things are in good and functional order. It was far cheaper and easier to weld issues on an old front end loader or fix the hydraulics than to find a "new to me"/used loader for an older model tractor. I came across more engines and other misc parts left in barns for my old tractor than front end loaders. Old Farmall girl here.
Older tractors ... They are more simple to repair and maintain than modern tractors. And it's surprising how many parts are available for the big runners of their day (Ford N series, Ferguson TO and MF series, etc) -- often newer discontinued tractors from the 80s/90s are harder to find parts for.
Greatful for your insight... JD dealer came to service my 4710 this AM . Starter not impinging on fly wheel after poping in a brand new battery after sub zero temperatures... looking at new tractors...very greatful for your INSIGHT...
Just to add some more JD, Yanmar info. It was 1987. I was an Ag teacher at the local high school. That year we bought a JD 1050. It was completely made by Yanmar. Right down to the Goodyear tires which were made in Japan. It was a great tractor and is still running at the school. That says a lot about a piece of equipment that has been used by teenagers it's entire life.
Bang on there Bud!
Wow a JD 1050, that brings back some memories from I guess not that long ago. My childhood was spent most weeks working on a pretty good size meat sheep and goat farm, if we weren't stacking square bales or fixing fence we were cleaning bed pack pens. The ONLY tractor they had was a JD 1050, 4wd loader. We worked the absolutely living snot out of that thing, it lifted piles of shit it was never meant to move, I think these new half plastic tractors would have broken in half. As far as I know, 20 some odd years on, that poor old 1050 is still going! I can't even imagine how many actual tons of manure that thing moved. That said what terrible ergonomics that thing had, and the tie rods in the front of the axle were always getting bent pushing the manure pile up.
2019 Mahindra emax 22 L TLB........ I researched for over a year for what I wanted. 4 piston loader , Arm rest, Skid steer quick disconnect, Hydrostatic with cruise control, iron axles and transmission case And a kukji engine which is the Cummins 3 cylinder.... I paid 26,000 for the TLB new And could not be happier it's worth more right now than I paid.
I have a 2019 mahindra emax 25L. I love it💪
I bought a rural king rk24 front loader and backhoe and grapple under 20k. It's the same as the emax 25. Emax are tym brand
@@MrBlaze256 And for that price they are good tractors ... they're just not in the top 5 brands that's all. So you don't get a 7 year iron clad warranty Or part availability for being the number one brand of tractors in the world. And the only other thing that's different is resale value. Mine's worth more than I paid new Almost 4 years later! However I would buy Yours before a John Deere any day!
And all of them but the E Max 22L are tym. my engine is a 3 cylinder Cummins built by Kukji...!
@@AmericanRusticWoodworks emax 22l is tym its the same as emax 25. Yours is the same as mine. Controls dash fenders
I counted 3 not 5 problem tractors. What did I miss for the other two?
Rental and auction were the other two
I appreciate anyone giving a heads up to a potential customer.
Love my RK24, it's a great cheap tractor. and my MFGC1715 is the perfect size for lawn mowing and love the front snowblower.
Awesome, glad to hear it!
Had a 2018 GC1705 with a loader, was a problem free little beast! Sold it with 260 hours to upgrade to a larger model. Looked at the MF 1825E, Kioti, & Bobcat… ended up buying a Kubota L2501HST. Super pleased. iMHO the JD 3E can’t compare to the 4 tractors I looked at & the one I ended up buying.
@@jdub229r I have to agree. I sold a GC2600 with almost 3000 hrs on it for $7000 just tractor and FEL. Nothing really wrong with it Bot it was time for a new one. My RK is just for moving manure and cleaning out the barn, I like the little bit of extra lift capability.
+1 on avoiding rental equipment. I worked commercial construction for years and I can tell you that stuff gets rode hard and put away wet.
bought a New Holland workmaster 25s two years ago, love it , dad wasn't to keen on it , if he would cut his finger he would probably bleed green and yellow , NH was quite a bit less expensive than the Deere but still uses the yanmar diesel, to date one of my better investments !!
I work at a kubota dealer. All b3350’s have a lifetime campaign for the emissions issues on them. Still avoid if you can. They are fine if used in a commercial setting where running high rpm all the time. Not a good homeowner tractor though.
own a mahindra for 16 yrs. this has been an outstanding tractor. 4x4 frnt loader no problems ever. 2215
I believe Yanmar made Deere compact tractors from the 1980s to early 2000s, like the 650-850 series, 670-870 series and the 790. USA tractor manufacturing in the '70s and '80s excelled at the larger utility and ag tractors, and Japan was producing compacts (e.g., Kubota, Yanmar, Shibaura). Deere partnered with Yanmar, and Ford partnered with Shibaura to bring compact tractors into their product lines.
Yanmar still provides engines and other parts to deere even for the 22 1025r. They are assembled in the GA plant. Not sure why the big stink about it but to act like deere is any different than any other mass producer is silly at best.
Kubota is the only one that uses all their own parts and engines. Hell, v and d series kubota engines power half of all equipment out there
@@crinkly.love-stick Yanmar and Kioti also design and manufacture all the major components of the their tractors.
i have a 650..with a front loader and a backhoe.. it is very useful and fits in tight spaces.. but it i an old school tractor.
Bit jerky, brakes are meh....hydro is slow and weak compared to many newer machines.
I got a Deere 870. It’s a great little tractor, got the third hydraulic line with a grapple bucket. I just wish the front end loader was stronger, but it’s not a big tractor, so can’t expect too much. Really good on fuel.
Good video. There are a lot of people in my area (mostly retired) who bought/buy t small hobby farm tractors with big ideas, and get very little if any use out of them. They can be five or ten years old and still look like new. The problem is is that they often just want too much for them.
Can't agree more; always buy quick easy bullet proof detachable everything because lining up pins or just poor designs like in the old days sucks.
I get the whole quick attach thing for loaders, but for some of us who bought when that craze was in its infancy we are really being segregated. As an example, I’m going to buy a pusher box next year for my BX. My choice is Landpride for my pin on arms. No one else makes anything. I would like something a bit heavier to offset the blower weight that effects steering. Sure I can spend an additional $650 for the adapter and get quick hitch, but that takes all my other attachments out of the mix without more switching the adapter off and on. Just frustrating for a tractor less than 10 years old and buying a new tractor is not in the cards.
The JDQA system has been quite popular and standardized almost all of their compact lineup since the late 90's. There were a few exceptions, but almost all included the JDQA. From my experience in having early 2000's Kubota's, they were much slower to catch on with upselling the convenience of the SSQA system. It's a shame that it took so long to make it commonplace. So, I can understand your frustration and that's why I point this out in so many videos. To help others avoid this same mistake.
However, from a manufacturer's perspective, there isn't enough demand for every individual pinned setup or minimally produced q/a systems to warrant mass production. This would require a large engineering effort plus millions in additional inventory for most major mfg's. Simply not practical and I can't say I blame them for it. If the demand were there, then someone else would be producing products to match. Demand drives the market.
It's an unfortunate situation without a painless answer.
Ask you kubota dealer about the "old" BX quick BX quick attach
As the oldest daughter, I inherited my Dad's 1990 John Deere 790, I think, in 2001. It looked brand new, with a little over 300 hrs on it. I thought he was going to cry when he broke a tail light several years after he got it. He swore he could tell the difference in the new one. He would borrow his brothers tractor for work that might damage his own tractor. He was raised on a farm in the 1940's, way back when the kids worked the crops by hand or with a horse or mule, before going to school. He was 50 before he got that tractor for his good sized garden. It was his proudest possession, and he babied it. If he knew how hard that we have used it, he would rise from his grave and tell me to park it. And don't get back on it, if i couldn't take better care, or be more careful with it, than that. I had been told that about 4 wheelers and his truck, if he thought that I was 'rawhiding' it. In 2000, when I was 40, I was still being questioned about a dent that I had put in his truck in 1975 when I was 15! He insisted that I wasn't telling him everything. And I wasn't, and never did tell him. My sister, a friend, and I had been somewhere we weren't supposed to be. And it wasn't even that bad, just looked bad. Backing out, I hit a pine tree and put a saucer sized dent in front of the right door. It left pine bark residue. That's why he kept questioning me. I'm guessing that he suspected that we weren't in town like we were supposed to be. Sorry, I got off topic. I could actually write more. Good memories I guess.
J
I enjoyed reading about your dad and your life. I'm sure you miss him. God bless you.
I own a Kubota 31 Grand 4x4. Great tractor.Besides hydraulic repair on front end loader ,no leaks or problems .It’s like 15 years old or more .Fully auto
Actually Branson Tractors makes ALL of the Deere tractors under 50 hp. This this is why the part number are all the same as Branson. However Deere uses yanmar engines and Branson uses their own and Mitsubisi. Just some helpful advice.. love your videos though..
Just a thought: If broken universal joints are prevalent on some models but they fail due to lack of preventive maintenance how is that a fault of the equipment? "Gosh I didn't know there were zerks on the u joints under there." A fault of the machine or a fault with the owner/maintainer? Perhaps reading the operators' manual would have been a good idea...
I recently purchased a 2018 M62 (Kubota). I have zero experience with tractors but I inhaled the OM and found out a lot of things that could have caused me major problems. Like the zerk at the front wheel drive driveshaft. You need to pull a plug opposite the grease fitting to allow complete purging of the bearing. Just one example.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Thank you.
Good point! I was taught in the military that they are called "TO's"(Technical Orders) & "TM's"(Tech Manuals) for a reason. Failure to read & obey the instructions that causes or leads to damage or degradation of the equipment's capabilities/functions is a punishable offense. One of my instructor's told us about an overhaul crew that failed to follow proper instructions & procedures of jacking up the bedplate for crankshaft alignment on a large power plant prime mover (200kVA) that caused a catastrophic failure just a few hrs into operation. They were ALL punished with Courts Martials with varying punishments, based on their positions/rank. Unka Sugar don't like having to pay big for preventable screw-ups & you shouldn't either. Pay attention to the details & READ the manuals & go online to gather pertinent data for your investment. As the old mechanic's commercial said, "you can pay me a little now, or pay me a LOT later!" The prepared make their OWN luck.😉🤠
P.s. @GoodWorksTractors I must have missed something, because the video is titled "5 tractors to avoid". I only counted three. Is there two more I missed?
I didn't find your channel and website till after I bought my 1023e and your videos and overall love of your 1025r basically same tractor make me never second-guess buying that thing one of the best investment I ever made I'll have it for the rest of my life all the attachments are always be useful cost a bunch but only pay for them for a couple years and tractors are cool
In Canada (not sure about USA) the Kubota B3350 now has an very extended warranty on the emissions system.
As it should. They REALLY dropped the ball on that one.
I had a 2005 Deere 2305 that was nearly flawless, it had one small issue with the throttle cable that was covered under warranty. I did all the maintenance myself, yearly, and just sold it this past May. I did hear there were transmission problems with some of the 2305 models, but I never experienced that issue either. I replaced it with a brand new 2025R that I had to wait about 3 months for. I love the size and weight of the new tractor, but the FEL doesn't seem as sturdy as the one from my 2305.
the wiring of the 2305 looks like it was done by Chef Boyardee.
My dad had a 2007 Kubota BX24 had that thing for 13 years with not one issue with it. Aside from the fuel filter jelling up when I was plowing my driveway and the two back tires blew out due to dry rot otherwise it ran like a champ. We had a hydraulic plow, a York rake, and front loader and back loader he got $18,500 for it.
@@MrCountrycuz I'm not really a fan of the 2035 they do look pretty but not my go to farm tractor.
I would love to see you compare some of these smaller brands. I haven’t owned a newer John Deere but I’ve owned stuff from the late 70’s mostly garden tractors. I haven’t been impressed with the Deere quality lately from friends who have bought new. Plus my local Deere dealer is a pain to deal with. Purchased a brand new Branson 22hp (tym24) this last year. Love the tractor and didn’t see another $4-$5000 in value in green or orange. Even though the kubota dealer is literally in my backyard.
I believe the dealer makes all the difference, love working with my local dealer and they’re expanding like crazy because their customer service is top notch. Dealer beats brand in my opinion every time. But I would love to see some comparisons between Massey, Branson, kubota and so on, on your channel. Instead of mostly seeing Deere and products.
Bit by bit, I'll get others. Tough market to buy anything right now.
John Deere isn’t what it used to be
I still have a 1970 case 446. Also have a 03 kubota that list the radiator hoses as obsolete.
AS A CITY BOY...THIS IS VERY VALUABLE INFORMATION...THANKS ...THIS IS GREAT!
I just watched the older video last night. Good info. I've considered turning the 1025r in for a 3E or 3D (3R is just a bit expensive right now) but I cannot get past the fixed loader and loader mounted joystick.
Parts for 8n 9n 2n are fairly easy to get your hands on still
I've been working on a lot of tractors last 10 years. The only way I would own a Kubota is if I'm about to resell it. I do like the John Deere, they are solid hard-working tractors. But they are way overpriced. When people ask me what tractor I'll suggest 30 horsepower and up. That would be a Branson. They are strong solid tractors and a whole lot cheaper than John Deere
Good stuff Cortney, while I don't know anything about Yanmar tractors I do like the Yanmar engines that John Deere contracted for the J.D. tractors. The first one I had was way back 1986. I bought a new compact J.D. 3025e with yet another Yanmar motor. Their awesome engines. I'm kinda interested in a Bobcat tractor. They seem to be a beefy machine with a lot of pep.
After a year of research and many miles driving to different dealers, I settled on a good used 2019 Kioti CK2510HST with 190hrs instead of the CK2610HST I wanted but didn’t have in stock and I can’t get over how powerful and the amount of work the 2510 has done. Best of all, best in class by far, it’s lifting capacity. Kioti makes a helluva tractor
💥 A tractor without a loader is very limited. It’s not really a utility tractor at all. Good video! 👍
*Keep on tractoring!*
You got that right!
Without the loader it’s just a pregnant lawnmower. 😜 Tim in northern TN
I have a 2007 John Deere 2305. It is a gem.The drive shaft is hard to get to but I use a needle attachment to my pneumatic grease gun and a headlamp and it's a lot easier. I also grease all the fittings on my tractor every 10 hours or so.
Yanmar made all of the small compact tractors for John Deere from the late 1970s until just recently. Check out where the 750-1050 JD where made.
Didn't they also make Ford compacts--- seems like it was a blue tractor.
1988 kubota L2850 couldn’t recommend it more it’s been a excellent tractor. Never a problem I recently bought it but know it’s history. 1700 hours no issues.
Thanks for mentioning my JD790, haven’t had the opportunity to mow with it yet, also still looking for suitcase weights local to stabilize front end. Good video as usual!
I have a older John Deere utility tractor and it’s amazing how much better quality they where back in the day.
And the weight to match now they’re so light it’s crazy
Go look into the world of yachts. Smaller ones. The engines are all either yanmar or kubota, in either case they are quality engines.
Larger yachts use john deere engines all the time. Sometimes as the main engine and a wing engine, sometimes it just the wing engine or just the main engine.
I just bought a 1023E with a mower deck only. (No loader) I have a 70HP JD with a loader that can pickup everything I need it to. I didn't need a small loader but I liked the idea of a small tractor to pull a wagon or use on a small tiller, boxblade, and bush hog.
I know this video is 2 years old and I just bought my first Kubota but I was actually an engineer for the company that makes all the implements for the John Deere compact and subcompact tractors.
yanmar does make the engines in the small John Deere's
Totally agree with you on the auctions not being a place to get a good deal.
When I wanted to upgrade from a Kubota L3410 to a cab tractor the B3350 was first on my list. Even back in 2016 I didn't have to look very long to discover it was a nightmare machine. I ended up with The L4060 and man is it a joy to operate!
On a side note, those UHMW Polyethylene plow edges I got from you are working out great.
Right on!
It’s not a bad machine, I’ve got over 250 hours on a loaded b3350 primary issues are bad safety switches and user error when running regen. See my main post.
B3350 is a great piece of machinery u r just stupid
I have a 3350 kubota stopped working on it at 400 hours it was there 9 times the last time was three months I asked about their buy back no luck
Auction tractors are just JUNK !!!!!!! 99 out of a hundred, are just beat to death. Best to buy something from a original owner and pay a little extra and will be better off in the long run. The video is really right on fella.
It was the 80’s through about 2006 that deere used yanmar for compacts. 755/855 ect were yanmar built tractor. They still use Yanmar engines in many compact subcompact models. Part of the JD Yanmar exclusive was marketing in NA, Yanmar was unable to or very limited to there branding in the NA market as long as they wanted to keep supplying JD. This is a huge reason Yanmar is seen as a small/new brand in NA. They are and oem suppler.
What he said 100% true . You can't grease a u joint that you don't know about . The 2210 of course has the same driveshaft issue. Keep them greased and you'll be fine
I’ve got a 1947 8N and it does great, don’t require a lot of maintenance and you don’t have the computers to throw random codes at you and I’ve got a guy that sells all the parts I need for it
I may have missed them but only counted 2 specific models. An AC12 was the only new tractor bought for our ranch (laughing) in 1960. A tenant and I cleaned it up and drove it to Moms place in town so they would have a tractor to scrape and/or disk weeds in her small orchards front and back. Currently there is 1 Fordson with steel wheels because some dirtbag stole the other one. A 40s Cat RD22 and D6 both orchard style. Did you know you can get a 'flat' driving a tracklayer? The Belarus tractor we sold at scrap prices. JD 300b large loader and either gannon or brush hog scraper on back. And the newest manufactured year of 1978 we bought in 2005 from a retiring backhoe single proprietor that spent its whole life with him doing foundation, drainage and other things in Carmel Valley. Case 580CK extendahoe that is teaching me why you need to operate, not just start, the equipment every 2 to 3 months. The JD was a foreclosure 'nickel' auction up near Davis if memory serves. I don't recall the brand name of Belarus made 4x4 and the only oil in front hubs was machine shop cutting oil. No dam* lube, grease... A tenant who was raising cattle was bringing it back from something driving backwards. I asked him what in the world and he said it stopped and wouldn't go forward. No noise, clunk, sound of shearing metal nor any other noise that always goes with the hub, U joints and front drive shaft(s) snapping.
Have a Branson (stupid name--but actually Kukje/South Korea, recently purchased by TYM. Assemble engines for Cummins)) 2400H. They tout their stoutness/weight of steel and it does feel sturdy. Powdercoat finish is nicely done and of course durable. As with most 24hp engines it is not what I would call the Lexus of tractor engines--virtually imperceptible--in fact it is typically hard starting, smoky, and feels unrefined. No quick attach loader bucket, but retro kits are available. Mid mower is a PITA to install/remove. However, I have a state-of-the-art Italian-made Peruzzo hydraulic flail embankment mower, and it is a beast, but it is not a finish mower but more of a mulcher--and mulch it does. Branson price point is of course lower than JD, but a big drawback with Branson is the miniscule dealer network. if you have a dealer relatively nearby, great but if not nearby (I am in Chicago and bought from a dealer in Oklahoma--BTW, very unresponsive) do what I do: All maintenance /repairs myself. And don't even think about contacting the Branson headquarters in Rome, Georgia as you might as well be calling Korea. ALthough, I did come across a Parts guy, Eric, there and he is willing and helpful. Hate: Fuel port on hood. Hydrostatic peddles too close together. Inefficient headlights--as with most. Hard shifting 2-speed gearbox and PTO choice. Mid and Rear PTO's on same valve so you can't use your 3-pt lowered as mower drops as well, so you have to remove it: Hassle. Went with turf tires: Mistake. Will probably switch to Courtney's suggested Carlysle tires.
From all of that you would think I am unhappy with the tractor but in fact overall I am not as I find it capable and durable. But I would much rather be in the 35-39hp engine range. Update: Purchased from auction, another same year 2400H. They said inoperable and had been in a rollover. Determined it had not rolled over but hit something sturdy which bent the FEL attachment and clutch rod. Rewelded the FEL piece, and ordered a clutch rod but instead of removing the engine and clutch housing, I cut off rod end and welded the end piece in place. Blend air, new battery and now runs very well. Also has a cad, quick release skid steer function, snowblower and front hydraulics (I added rear hydraulics to my other tractor. What's weird is the two 2400H tractors are subtly different: different dash graphics, an extra safety switch, quick attach skid steer function.
Branson dealer--- Meridian Implement west side of Rockford, Illinois
great video. I'm not looking for another tractor but I almost bought that Kubota a few years back. The dealer was the one to steer me away from it into another tractor.
This was very helpful and well communicated
"Older" doesn't necessarily mean "More down time". As a matter of fact, most of the time it's the opposite.
My local John Deere dealer only sell their sub compact tractors WITHOUT a loader, and the loader is a $AU6000 option.
Not sure about the US, but we get a lot of Chinese Dump and Run tractor brands. Cheap tractors, supplied with 5 attachments, mad you end up with no after sales services. In Melbourne, there's UHI, and in Adelaide, there's Trident, and this one Adelaide dealership is the only dealership that sells Tridents.
I have a Kubota that is so old it has no plastic. Plenty of rust, but no plastic.
Only reason I could see not wanting a loader is if I already have one or several tractors with loaders and I just wanted a basic tractor to do one specific job while the rest I used for everything else. This is also assuming I could actually afford that lol.
I farm & have bigger machines. Some neighbors sent me this as they wanted to get rid of newer Deere’s due to so many issues. I told them I’d dig in. Vid said “deere not made by Yanmar” but I believe almost all of their smaller tractors are made in India, Mexico, etc. It might not be yanmar but I believe it’s same plants as others like mahindra possibly? Are we sure Deere’s smaller tractors are not made with others in oversea factories & branded deere?
One other side comment on new vs old… old has a HUGE advantage of not being chalked full of the emissions stuff that causes most farmers I know constant issues - full tier 4. Older tractors have less electronics to fail & little to no expensive & problematic emissions systems on them. The newer small tractors I’ve looked all also had very cheap cast steel I’ve seen break many times, disposable tires, cheap plastic parts, etc. All of them felt & looked like a “Chinese made” type of item. Anyways - good luck on whatever you do but sure don’t rule out a low hour 10 year old tractor that has a real likelihood of giving you far less grief than new.
Yes, positive that compact Deere aren't made overseas. There's a couple videos on RUclips touring the USA plants. That misconception has been put to rest time and time again.
10 year old, low hour tractors are a rare find. That's what everyone wants. They are a real treat when you come across them. Often times, they command a premium, at least those that I've sold.
The only Tier 4 system I've had an issue with is the B3350.
Thanks for watching!
EDIT: Plus you're a farmer. Different market. The compact market has a different demographic. Most can't/won't/don't repair their own equipment. Different skill set in life. Older equipment is valued more by those that can repair themselves.
@@GoodWorksTractors good to know!!! I do have 2 “medium size deere” 6000 series - one from Mexico (D model) & Germany made the “M” I have. Biggest R models 8000 series made in iowa. Yep- Ag vs consumer I knew had different dynamics. Love my 2012 & older machines. Thanks for the reply & getting the info correct! Passed this video on to a few buddies switching machines so they will appreciate it.
@@Iowa_Whitetail very welcome. By the way, I'm hoping to get a crack an Iowa whitetail this fall or next. The Land of Giants! 🦌
@@GoodWorksTractors its amazing & worth the wait!!!! It was a slower season for most the state but it’s incredible here. Wish the surrounding states would mimic what iowa does. Enjoy it when u draw!!!! Do your homework just like those looking at tractors ;).
&…. 2 of the guys I’m looking into tractors for…. For their deer hunting farms! Need to keep these guys running so I don’t need to bale them out as much! 🤯🥳
@@Iowa_Whitetail I was just about to mention I think what you already said. Deere sells a lot of tractors that are "Assembled" in the USA from global parts, or some are made in Mexico like the 5/6D series or the 03 series before that. We run older 5000 series Deeres and they've all been decent but from some newer Deeres I've run on other farms I don't know if the quality is there anymore on some of the newer series.
Love your videos! I've learned so much. I would absolutely buy a tractor from you but I'm in Washington state! I will keep watching though. Thanks for all the great information!
John Deere 2210 has the same drive shaft. Had 600 hours on it before I ever knew about those u-joints. Luckily changed them before anything bad happened. Wait till your power steering assembly leaks. There's another great time. It's a discontinued part
I was looking to buy a 2305 John Deere about 12 years ago and I am glad I didn't.
Surprised to see a John Deere on here. I'm seeing a pattern here, avoid the 2300 series. I have a buddy who has had his 2210 he bought brand new over 10 years ago, and it's been through a lot and came back just as good as ever. He takes good care of his tractors.
I have a 2022 bad boy 4035…I use it for my garden mowing and post drilling…zero issues.
Was skeptical but zero issues so far.
We looked at a lot of small tractors, but none were made in US for what we wanted (jd was made in India). I'd read that kioti has engine issues, but I like my TYM kuikje engine. It's bare bones, a throw back to how engines used to be made... to RUN and not monkey with DEF. Id rather have something I can fix myself than have to run it to a dealer for a computer check 🤔😁
I just purchased a Kioti 2610. I have friends who run tractors for a living, the 2610 won hands down. I use it on my property, and and farming a little. I shopped for 5 years. I got the backhoe. Very nice to operate.
@@disgruntledconservativevet1798 Debating buying a used kioti DK4510 right now. 😬 There's so much information 🤯
I stopped in at a New Holland/Kioti dealer this weekend because it was between the John Deere and Kubota dealers. I would have never even considered them, but was impressed with the CK3510SE. The JD we ended up looking at (3033R) was made in Canada. The Kioti was made in Wendell, NC with a loader from South Korea, so more "American" than the JD.
@@Noah_E Your Kioti may have been assembled in NC, but it was made in Seoul Korea.
I am one of the nostalgic guys, kind of. I didn't need w big tractor to maintain my 4 acres. the Property has been complete for 25 years. I just needed minimal maintenance and up keep. I bought and restored a John Deere 430, not the big one. It took me a year to restore and source everything. It is complete minus a 44 loader. If you find one it is rusted into the ground and someone still wants new money for it. I decided to build a FELand bought blueprints from PF engineering. Well I sat on them too long because I was buying $1500 complete PTOs for the tractor and other costly unicorn parts. After two years and a beautiful "tractor" with a snow blade I'm done hunting for a loader and a 48" tiller. I am literally going today and buying one of the Korean compacts. I have done tons of research not to mention everything I learned restoring the John Deere and I feel confident that I made the right decision. Now I cant decide if I want to keep the JD just because, or sell it. I am in the little tractor $6000.