That is an option as well, the only side effect of that is when the wake up connector is plugged in, the hour meter adds time to itself as if its running. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the videos and info! Did you happen to turn out the idle screw and cold start screw first? Curious as the spec for the 300 is saying 0.32v-0.42v.
I did not, I just documented the initial voltage and made a few minimal adjustments so far. My manual calls for .40v as well. I did see that in the manual is calling to back out the red idle and start there. A bit diff from the 4 strokes I have done.
@@DJ-mp2rq Im on the fence with what the manual says bc I have adjusted it according to the manual in previous bikes and it didn't feel right..so I check it now as it sits and I have had better luck with it that way. I will post diff findings, please do the same and subscribe!
It is possible to adjust the TPS voltage without programming the ECU? It looks like the TPS mounting holes are slotted to allow for movement similar to adjusting timing via the stator.
Hey Ben, thanks for the question. Answer is yes..I will give you a quick ex of how and why you would adjust it. It should be noted that the reason why the TPS voltage is so important and sensitive is that is the lowest part of the rpm range is tested for emissions which is like 2200 rpm, (idle is roughly 1500 prm), which as far as an efficiency perspective, it is the "dirtiest" rpm range of the engine cycle and produces the most harmful emissions. So the factory sets the initial TPS voltage lean fuel so it passes the tests. My 2021.5' Husky FC450 Rockstar had stock measured TPS voltage of .565v, and when it was to be started, sometimes it would feel a hair lean and take a second or so of turning over before it fired. I wanted to make some changes to the engine intake area to improve airflow and throttle response to be more snappy, so here is what I did to that, but had to compensate the change by adjusting the TPS. I replaced the stock air filter cage that has a backfire screen in it and used a screen-less 2 stroke air filter cage, and also went with a modified exh flange by Twisted Development and ran T4, (has a 6% oxygenation factor) Once I swapped out the parts, this changed the air fuel ratio and got even more lean off idle and I developed a slight "cough out, dead spot" as soon as I cracked the throttle. To fix this, I sent more fuel/air to the intake and right off idle by adjusting the initial TPS voltage to read roughly .610v-.615v. The higher the value, the more will be sent to the injector circuit so the new value of the .610v was just enough to make the bog go away and it also started easier and was very snappy off idle. I know thats a long answer but I thought it was important to explain what the TPS is doing and how a small change can get you a more finely tuned TPS. Hope this helps- J
I should also note that the TPS adjustment is for the starting value in relation to volts to the TPS. Once you open the throttle to full open and get ++++++volts, that starting value of the TPS doesn't translate anymore but will still be effecting the rest of the degree range of the TPS. So it does add voltage to the entire TPS rotation of the circuit, starting at the initial voltage of where the TPS was when fully closed. So once you are WOT, the TPS is maxed out. Kinda techie and wordy, sorry.
I picked up a tc125 for my kid and we noticed it cut power bad near the high end of the rpm and would sorta backfire when letting off the throttle. It caught him off guard going into a whoop section and almost caused a crash. Sounds like a lean condition to me and I was wondering would increasing this value also help richen the bike at the higher end of the rpm range? Thanks
what fuel, mix ratio, plug, any mods to the reed/pipe? As for the TPS tweak, that only really helps the initial throttle opening from idle as once you advance the voltage, you are just merely adding information to the closed position for more fuel. The TPS still tops out at the same voltage as it would normally, so you can't add more voltage when the TPS is wide open and send more voltage than what it has for max value. Not sure on the high rpm issue, did it only happen once?
@@themotocrossmodchannelWulfMX So the bike is completely stock running the recommended 40:1. I took it out for a ride and I also noticed it hesitate near the top end as well and it seemed before it should have revved out. The green map was worse than the white map. I'm not sure which map is rich and which is lean. Thanks for the reply. I've been reading about a few bikes experiencing the same thing so I'm going to keep an eye out on the internet for potential reason why
@@mikeb4334 the white map is the richer map and the green one is the standard map...remove the plug and check it out to see that its OK, some are posting bad plug issues. Stocker should be a NGK BR10ECMVX. Letting the bike excessively warm up with the yellow hot start button seems to also cause some plug fouling issues. What octane are you running?
@@themotocrossmodchannelWulfMX awesome thank you for explaining the maps to me. I'll pull the plug and take a look see how it is. I'm running 93 octane here in Canada which is the highest I can get my hands on. I tried 25% VP race fuel with 93 octane and it ran the same as well
@@mikeb4334 OK, thanks for posting. The manual specs 98 octane ROZ which is a euro rating, the conversion of that to North America seems to be around 93-95 oct. Keep us posted on your results. Thx- J ps- did you get the owners manual on line?
You could use the wake up dongle to power the system and use a DVM. You wouldn't have to keep bumping the starter.
That is an option as well, the only side effect of that is when the wake up connector is plugged in, the hour meter adds time to itself as if its running. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the videos and info! Did you happen to turn out the idle screw and cold start screw first? Curious as the spec for the 300 is saying 0.32v-0.42v.
I did not, I just documented the initial voltage and made a few minimal adjustments so far. My manual calls for .40v as well. I did see that in the manual is calling to back out the red idle and start there. A bit diff from the 4 strokes I have done.
Ok thanks. Make sure I was on the right track.
@@DJ-mp2rq do you have the actual service manual? Not the owners manual but the one that the shops use?
Yes I do have the service manual. Haven’t checked mine yet but came across your video and was wondering about the idle screw.
@@DJ-mp2rq Im on the fence with what the manual says bc I have adjusted it according to the manual in previous bikes and it didn't feel right..so I check it now as it sits and I have had better luck with it that way. I will post diff findings, please do the same and subscribe!
It is possible to adjust the TPS voltage without programming the ECU? It looks like the TPS mounting holes are slotted to allow for movement similar to adjusting timing via the stator.
Hey Ben, thanks for the question. Answer is yes..I will give you a quick ex of how and why you would adjust it.
It should be noted that the reason why the TPS voltage is so important and sensitive is that is the lowest part of the rpm range is tested for emissions which is like 2200 rpm, (idle is roughly 1500 prm), which as far as an efficiency perspective, it is the "dirtiest" rpm range of the engine cycle and produces the most harmful emissions. So the factory sets the initial TPS voltage lean fuel so it passes the tests.
My 2021.5' Husky FC450 Rockstar had stock measured TPS voltage of .565v, and when it was to be started, sometimes it would feel a hair lean and take a second or so of turning over before it fired. I wanted to make some changes to the engine intake area to improve airflow and throttle response to be more snappy, so here is what I did to that, but had to compensate the change by adjusting the TPS.
I replaced the stock air filter cage that has a backfire screen in it and used a screen-less 2 stroke air filter cage, and also went with a modified exh flange by Twisted Development and ran T4, (has a 6% oxygenation factor)
Once I swapped out the parts, this changed the air fuel ratio and got even more lean off idle and I developed a slight "cough out, dead spot" as soon as I cracked the throttle.
To fix this, I sent more fuel/air to the intake and right off idle by adjusting the initial TPS voltage to read roughly .610v-.615v.
The higher the value, the more will be sent to the injector circuit so the new value of the .610v was just enough to make the bog go away and it also started easier and was very snappy off idle.
I know thats a long answer but I thought it was important to explain what the TPS is doing and how a small change can get you a more finely tuned TPS.
Hope this helps- J
I should also note that the TPS adjustment is for the starting value in relation to volts to the TPS. Once you open the throttle to full open and get ++++++volts, that starting value of the TPS doesn't translate anymore but will still be effecting the rest of the degree range of the TPS. So it does add voltage to the entire TPS rotation of the circuit, starting at the initial voltage of where the TPS was when fully closed. So once you are WOT, the TPS is maxed out. Kinda techie and wordy, sorry.
Just jump a wire off the batterie to the tps for constant power. Do it all the time with sled.
Do what all the time?
I picked up a tc125 for my kid and we noticed it cut power bad near the high end of the rpm and would sorta backfire when letting off the throttle. It caught him off guard going into a whoop section and almost caused a crash. Sounds like a lean condition to me and I was wondering would increasing this value also help richen the bike at the higher end of the rpm range? Thanks
what fuel, mix ratio, plug, any mods to the reed/pipe?
As for the TPS tweak, that only really helps the initial throttle opening from idle as once you advance the voltage, you are just merely adding information to the closed position for more fuel. The TPS still tops out at the same voltage as it would normally, so you can't add more voltage when the TPS is wide open and send more voltage than what it has for max value.
Not sure on the high rpm issue, did it only happen once?
@@themotocrossmodchannelWulfMX So the bike is completely stock running the recommended 40:1. I took it out for a ride and I also noticed it hesitate near the top end as well and it seemed before it should have revved out. The green map was worse than the white map. I'm not sure which map is rich and which is lean. Thanks for the reply. I've been reading about a few bikes experiencing the same thing so I'm going to keep an eye out on the internet for potential reason why
@@mikeb4334 the white map is the richer map and the green one is the standard map...remove the plug and check it out to see that its OK, some are posting bad plug issues. Stocker should be a NGK BR10ECMVX. Letting the bike excessively warm up with the yellow hot start button seems to also cause some plug fouling issues. What octane are you running?
@@themotocrossmodchannelWulfMX awesome thank you for explaining the maps to me. I'll pull the plug and take a look see how it is. I'm running 93 octane here in Canada which is the highest I can get my hands on. I tried 25% VP race fuel with 93 octane and it ran the same as well
@@mikeb4334 OK, thanks for posting. The manual specs 98 octane ROZ which is a euro rating, the conversion of that to North America seems to be around 93-95 oct. Keep us posted on your results.
Thx- J
ps- did you get the owners manual on line?
Is that model 3 harness for 23+ tBi bikes?
for the tool?
@@themotocrossmodchannelWulfMX The harness. I see that I have to select one of several styles. Unless im mistaken.
@@Dat_Sun Not sure, The tool comes with all of the connectors
@@themotocrossmodchannelWulfMX My mistake, I was looking at the wrong one.