Pointing out that $50 to you and $50 to someone else may be a vastly different thing, really shows your thoughtful character, Matt. Some folks gotta think and save long and had to spend $50. Others can spend $500 without an ounce concern. "Expensive" is always a relative thing. Just another reason you are the go-to guy for many because you are straight-up with your opinion. A lot of folks can't afford to make a $10 purchase mistake, let alone a $50 one. Keep up the good work Matt.
Thanks Matt, just got this system to go with the Juice chassis. So glad you did videos on both. With my Parkinsons the chassis was worrying me. thanks, and keep up the great content!
I'm finely sold on these motors. Why'd it take me so long, i dunno. Thanks for the video. Hopefully someone comes up with a better frame for these that gives more room for the servo, along with a body that KEEPS the fender flairs but tucks them in to clear the tires, and allows the rig to be dropped down more for a more LCG rig. Maybe need some different oil shocks for that, maybe not. There's an EVO Pro body that you can buy that works great for it, but then it's just not the same.
It looks perfect on 2s. Maybe a throttle curve adjustment for crawling is in order. I'm pretty good with the trigger but jumpy systems will still show their ugly head at times.
Do you know something that's crazy I was needing a custom drive shaft for a truck I looked through all my stuff and I found a plastic one off of axial so I figured I'll just put this plastic one on there I forgot about having the plastic one on there and ran it like that I had that truck in all kinds of binds and I could not break that drive shaft I said heck with it I'll just run it Until It Breaks
The next question is how is Axial going to respond to all this competition? 18th scale, portal axles and or 2-speed transmissions. They better do something
Does it have any spots on the throttle curve where the speed jerks past a couple steps like it’s missing points in the throttle curve? When furitech first came out I didn’t buy it because I noticed it had multiple throttle thresholds and the speed would jerk faster as it moved up through the throttle curve. Like if a throttle curve could be explained in steps of 1 to 10 the first furitech systems would skip numbers in the throttle range from 1 to 10. I absolutely have to have a throttle curve that is perfectly smooth with zero uneven speed increases and no jumps in speed. I always tune my remote trigger to have a wide range of definition on the slow end of the throttle curve so when I max out my trigger pull it’s only going like a third the speed the system is capable of.
I'm one of them guys that you're talking about when it comes to the escrow I've had my stuff try to catch fire literally I got it on a short Puffin smoke up out of it but obviously I didn't want to post it and make them look bad you know but Tony stretched out to me and replace the ones that was messed up
@@idahoredbeard some of the original motor mounts had to be cut because they didn’t leave enough room to slide the pinion out. It was just a small round hole. Some of the newer ones actually has the exact shape of the pinion in it. It’s notched out exactly like the teeth on the pinion so you have to turn it just perfectly to pull it through.
@@idahoredbeard some of the original motor mounts had to be cut because they didn’t leave enough room to slide the pinion out. It was just a small round hole. Some of the newer ones actually has the exact shape of the pinion in it. It’s notched out exactly like the teeth on the pinion so you have to turn it just perfectly to pull it through.
@@creekcreeperrc7972 yeah I think this came with an 11t pinion on it. It fit perfectly so a micro Komodo should be fine also. Just has to be a mod 4 pinion.
Hi Matt, I asked you a question about the problem with Furitek escs and drag brake setting. You answered a lot of questions about this video, just no reaktion to my one. That makes me sad. I assume, that Furitek tries to force the customers to buy there expensive combos (I don't need their receivers or transmitters, just stay with Flyscy or Dunborg). Because on all escs, you buy not in a combo, Furitek say: for scx 24 (so no dragbrake necessary), and use just a little different programm or some tiny difference in the hardwear for the combo-escs. And to be honest, that would be a rip of the customers, same with their rtr trucks with "new"bodies, wich are just old reused hobby plus ones. And plastic links and driveshafts and bushings all around in a 200 $ 1:18 crawler are a shame. Sorry Matt, but slowly I get the feeling, that you are getting biased because of all the stuff you get for free. For me (just a normal worker) the brushless setups were very tempting at the beginning, and I bought a lot of Furitek stuff. But more and more it seems just to be a hype. And with a good brushed motor and esc, like you get from FMS stock for a quarter of the Furitek stuff, you will not notice the difference in crawling outside. Just on your table and who cares about that?
Sorry man but I didn’t see a question from you that I’m aware of? I’m actually on a cruise with my wife atm for our anniversary next wk so my service has been kinda rough. I’ll scan the comments again and see if it is showing up. I mean if you really want me to answer? Since I didn’t respond and I’m immediately bought out? I can never do enough. It’s unbelievable honestly
@@2fmrc Hi Matt, I'm Jan. At first, thanx for answering. And I would'nt blame you. Was just disappointed. And I feel you, have my own little business (not in the networld), and this feeling, you can work like a horse and customers allways want more. Just one question: when you just put the Furitek escs in, you will always have drag brake 0% (crawler mode), and no lipo cut off. Didn't you never feel a difference between scx and fcx axles? And sorry again, would'nt hurt your feelings!
@@JanSonnemann yeah you can definitely tell a difference between the axles but I’ve always had a pretty solid drag brake even with the fcx ring and pinion axles and Furitek escs. I definitely wouldn’t recommend the venom motor with fcx axles but the micro and mini Komodo have actually both ran them pretty well for me. I normally run a lizard pro or something like that on them. I’ve honestly not built any trucks with fcx axles in awhile so some of the Furitek updates lately may have changed things from what I’m used to. I’ve kinda went back to scx axles on most builds now that we have really good scx axles like the mofo x15s and iso axles etc. With enough overdrive and a 3s Lipo I can still get the wheel speed I’m looking for.
Hi Matt, have a question, hope yuo have the time to answer. I sterted go brushless with the fms fcx18. Using micro komodo and lizard pro. This FCX axels with drive and pinion gear instead of the worm diffs of the axial trucks yuo need a drag brake for crawling. But when I open the furitek app (newest version), it always give a warning, that the esc will overheat. Tried it with different mikro kommodos, cedar motor, different lizard pros and with a phyton pro. All upgraded to the newest firmware. And allways the same warning. Also the motors get not hot, but much warmer than the brushed ones with stock esc. What can I do? Afraid of damagi g the expensive esc's. Would be great to get an advice from you.
I don’t think you should have any issue with the fcx axles. I’ve ran fcx axles with Furitek esc/motor and scx24 transmissions forever and never had any issues. The motors will definitely get warm but I haven’t had any issue with them burning up or anything. Not sure what warning you have popping up because I’ve never really seen that one. But I also rarely ever even program any of my escs. I toss them in and run lol
Pointing out that $50 to you and $50 to someone else may be a vastly different thing, really shows your thoughtful character, Matt.
Some folks gotta think and save long and had to spend $50. Others can spend $500 without an ounce concern. "Expensive" is always a relative thing. Just another reason you are the go-to guy for many because you are straight-up with your opinion. A lot of folks can't afford to make a $10 purchase mistake, let alone a $50 one.
Keep up the good work Matt.
Thanks Matt, just got this system to go with the Juice chassis. So glad you did videos on both. With my Parkinsons the chassis was worrying me. thanks, and keep up the great content!
@@roblootens2994 glad to hear they may have helped out! Hope you love them both!
I took the factory redcat esc and put in a caged scx24 build that was very compact. Works absolutely perfect and even put 3s to it.
Yeah I’ve ran 3s on my stock esc since back when I was testing it. Never had any issues at all.
Another great video! After your review I just ordered it!
I'm finely sold on these motors.
Why'd it take me so long, i dunno.
Thanks for the video.
Hopefully someone comes up with a better frame for these that gives more room for the servo, along with a body that KEEPS the fender flairs but tucks them in to clear the tires, and allows the rig to be dropped down more for a more LCG rig. Maybe need some different oil shocks for that, maybe not.
There's an EVO Pro body that you can buy that works great for it, but then it's just not the same.
love it!!!!!
Incredible! Thanks for the sharing the great information!
Injora now sells steel center driveshafts for the Redcat - Ascent 18 & they are available on Amazon.
Great video. Just got this combo for my A-18. Where did you get those blocks?
It looks perfect on 2s. Maybe a throttle curve adjustment for crawling is in order. I'm pretty good with the trigger but jumpy systems will still show their ugly head at times.
Great video. With that receiver, would it bind up with a flysky noble nb4?
Do you know something that's crazy I was needing a custom drive shaft for a truck I looked through all my stuff and I found a plastic one off of axial so I figured I'll just put this plastic one on there I forgot about having the plastic one on there and ran it like that I had that truck in all kinds of binds
and I could not break that drive shaft I said heck with it I'll just run it Until It Breaks
Old school axial driveshafts will twist before they break
I did find out the venom boes not run well on the old v1 lizard esc. I might have to get my hands on another lizard pro since I have the venom already
your so awsome!!!!!!!
Really appreciate that!
FFS there goes Furitek again! This seems perfect for my ascent18. 😂
The next question is how is Axial going to respond to all this competition? 18th scale, portal axles and or 2-speed transmissions. They better do something
It’s gonna be the c10 getting some new paint, the new cooperate composite big bores and spektrum electronics. Ad an update/upgrade 😂
@@JUSTHAVEFUNRC haha! I was just about to answer this the same way 😆
Same question comes to my mind, lol and very similar answers.
Axial doesn’t have to most of us only buy them to tear them all apart anyway
@@xr70man I won’t even buy them anymore lol. Got plenty of their junk parts laying around already! May as well build from scratch
I need this
Man....basher and crawler all in one rig...... breaks me 1/24th scale heart..... LOL!
Does it have any spots on the throttle curve where the speed jerks past a couple steps like it’s missing points in the throttle curve? When furitech first came out I didn’t buy it because I noticed it had multiple throttle thresholds and the speed would jerk faster as it moved up through the throttle curve. Like if a throttle curve could be explained in steps of 1 to 10 the first furitech systems would skip numbers in the throttle range from 1 to 10. I absolutely have to have a throttle curve that is perfectly smooth with zero uneven speed increases and no jumps in speed. I always tune my remote trigger to have a wide range of definition on the slow end of the throttle curve so when I max out my trigger pull it’s only going like a third the speed the system is capable of.
I'm one of them guys that you're talking about when it comes to the escrow I've had my stuff try to catch fire literally I got it on a short Puffin smoke up out of it but obviously I didn't want to post it and make them look bad you know but Tony stretched out to me and replace the ones that was messed up
You're definitely can tell you're missed in the 24 game I know I miss you anyway what tires you got on that thing that looks like those new tires
Hey matt, did you have to make the pinion hole in the transmission bigger to fit the pinion thru it?
@@idahoredbeard some of the original motor mounts had to be cut because they didn’t leave enough room to slide the pinion out. It was just a small round hole. Some of the newer ones actually has the exact shape of the pinion in it. It’s notched out exactly like the teeth on the pinion so you have to turn it just perfectly to pull it through.
@@idahoredbeard some of the original motor mounts had to be cut because they didn’t leave enough room to slide the pinion out. It was just a small round hole. Some of the newer ones actually has the exact shape of the pinion in it. It’s notched out exactly like the teeth on the pinion so you have to turn it just perfectly to pull it through.
the drag brake will work with stock transmitter? thanks
Isn't the pinion gear bigger on the stock motor? Would a micro Komodo with the 11t pinion work? Or would it need a slot for gear mesh
@@creekcreeperrc7972 yeah I think this came with an 11t pinion on it. It fit perfectly so a micro Komodo should be fine also. Just has to be a mod 4 pinion.
@@2fmrc appreciate it! Do you know the scx24 gear pitch stock? Isn't it like .3.mod?
If you was to step up the motor to an in runner which would you switch to for am upgrade
@@jameswisecarver Furitek cedar but there’s not many inrunners to choose from honestly
@@2fmrc thanks bud
I may have missed it but I don’t see a link for this battery. Anyone have one to share? Thanks for the great videos.
Sorry. Couldn’t find the exact one I have (250mah) but this is the same battery just in a 200mah.
amzn.to/3VYbGH7
Hi Matt, I asked you a question about the problem with Furitek escs and drag brake setting. You answered a lot of questions about this video, just no reaktion to my one. That makes me sad. I assume, that Furitek tries to force the customers to buy there expensive combos (I don't need their receivers or transmitters, just stay with Flyscy or Dunborg). Because on all escs, you buy not in a combo, Furitek say: for scx 24 (so no dragbrake necessary), and use just a little different programm or some tiny difference in the hardwear for the combo-escs. And to be honest, that would be a rip of the customers, same with their rtr trucks with "new"bodies, wich are just old reused hobby plus ones. And plastic links and driveshafts and bushings all around in a 200 $ 1:18 crawler are a shame. Sorry Matt, but slowly I get the feeling, that you are getting biased because of all the stuff you get for free. For me (just a normal worker) the brushless setups were very tempting at the beginning, and I bought a lot of Furitek stuff. But more and more it seems just to be a hype. And with a good brushed motor and esc, like you get from FMS stock for a quarter of the Furitek stuff, you will not notice the difference in crawling outside. Just on your table and who cares about that?
Sorry man but I didn’t see a question from you that I’m aware of? I’m actually on a cruise with my wife atm for our anniversary next wk so my service has been kinda rough. I’ll scan the comments again and see if it is showing up. I mean if you really want me to answer? Since I didn’t respond and I’m immediately bought out? I can never do enough. It’s unbelievable honestly
@@2fmrc Hi Matt, I'm Jan. At first, thanx for answering. And I would'nt blame you. Was just disappointed. And I feel you, have my own little business (not in the networld), and this feeling, you can work like a horse and customers allways want more. Just one question: when you just put the Furitek escs in, you will always have drag brake 0% (crawler mode), and no lipo cut off. Didn't you never feel a difference between scx and fcx axles?
And sorry again, would'nt hurt your feelings!
@@JanSonnemann yeah you can definitely tell a difference between the axles but I’ve always had a pretty solid drag brake even with the fcx ring and pinion axles and Furitek escs. I definitely wouldn’t recommend the venom motor with fcx axles but the micro and mini Komodo have actually both ran them pretty well for me. I normally run a lizard pro or something like that on them. I’ve honestly not built any trucks with fcx axles in awhile so some of the Furitek updates lately may have changed things from what I’m used to. I’ve kinda went back to scx axles on most builds now that we have really good scx axles like the mofo x15s and iso axles etc. With enough overdrive and a 3s Lipo I can still get the wheel speed I’m looking for.
@@2fmrc Thanx man. Will try it with 50% drag-brake. At this point there is no warning (lizard pro or phyton).
Have u seen the oppai factory chassis for the ir40
Seen it on Etsy but not in person
It is one of the best chassis for the ir40 body worth doing a video on and shipping was super fast
Hi Matt, have a question, hope yuo have the time to answer. I sterted go brushless with the fms fcx18. Using micro komodo and lizard pro. This FCX axels with drive and pinion gear instead of the worm diffs of the axial trucks yuo need a drag brake for crawling. But when I open the furitek app (newest version), it always give a warning, that the esc will overheat. Tried it with different mikro kommodos, cedar motor, different lizard pros and with a phyton pro. All upgraded to the newest firmware. And allways the same warning. Also the motors get not hot, but much warmer than the brushed ones with stock esc. What can I do? Afraid of damagi g the expensive esc's. Would be great to get an advice from you.
I don’t think you should have any issue with the fcx axles. I’ve ran fcx axles with Furitek esc/motor and scx24 transmissions forever and never had any issues. The motors will definitely get warm but I haven’t had any issue with them burning up or anything. Not sure what warning you have popping up because I’ve never really seen that one. But I also rarely ever even program any of my escs. I toss them in and run lol
great rig! have you tried 3s in this and burnt the motor up yet? 🤣
I didn’t run 3s long. Broke the driveshaft and ordered some metal ones. Been out of town since so I haven’t got the shafts installed.
Anyone come out with a straight chassis rail set for this yet? Or used an existing set of rails?
I haven’t seen one. It’s fairly easy to make an Scx24 chassis work though 😉
What battery is that?
Couldn’t find the exact one I have (250mah) but these are the same just 200mah
amzn.to/3VYbGH7
same combo you get in the katana.
Yep!
Maybe they are burning out ESC's from 3-S 🤷♂️
Idk? I always run 3s but I also keep an eye on temps. Some people just run and run until it shuts off 😆