The bottom of the main panel of my '06 seems to have a couple of spurs that are fitted into slots in the door metal and will need to be freed before any lifting up can happen.
Replaced my sliding door latch on a 2003 Freightliner with 2004 Leisure Travel RV Buildout i recently purchased. Will be sure to lubricate to prevent future failure. Love the channel.
@@FloridaVanMan I'm in a very peculiar bind. I had replaced driver side exterior door handle a few weeks ago and never got it to control latch. The interior handle still worked. Then I had to travel and had some brake work done enroute. Despite me telling them that the exterior door handle didn't work and they'd have to use passenger side, some bonehead broke the new handle trying to open it. After the repair, I also noticed that the interior handle had less tension (probably due to them trying to use that to get in) at that point but still worked.....for a bit. I considered taking it back to them but I was 1000 miles from home and fed up with them at that point. Then the interior handle stopped working. It felt like it detached or broke from some part of the handle mechanism and no longer has any tension and won't open door. So neither handle on the driver side door will open the door. Today, following your excellent video I detached the door panel, and while I'm not able to pull it completely away from door frame, b/c it isn't open, I'm able to get to the backside. At first I tried just pulling on the cable (it appears that the cable is attached on both ends) hoping maybe I could just open it mechanically. That did nothing. Then interestingly, I tried using the interior handle....amazingly it's still able to control actuator and lock and unlock the door, but, won't open it. I can get my fingers into the holes on the inside of the latch. Hope that paints a reasonably clear picture. Is there any way to get this door open? Any ideas are appreciated.
I figured out how to open the front door without the use of interior or exterior door handles. The interior handle end of the cable, that controls the latch, slips into a hole on the back of the handle. It had popped out and wouldn't stay in under tension. Ultimately, it seems that the plastic bushing that clips into door handle was partially broken so it wasn't providing restraint when the cable was tensioned. I was able rotate it so more of it clipped into door panel and I bent the hook on the cable to try to force it to stay in place. Certainly a temp solution but at least I now know how to get out of this situation in the future. And as I suspected the exterior door handle was broken in exactly the same place as the previous one because people kept tugging on it without it being properly connected to latch. Brute force is almost never the smartest option folks. Just another obscure repair on my 2004 T1N with 280k on it. You never know what'll break next. At least the drive train is functioning as expected.
So good to see how these are done. I am always worried about breaking tabs/clips when you do not know where they are! Ps received a T-shirt at Christmas ' Its a TIN Thing' Love it. Do you think sometime in the future you could make a how to to remove the part of the dash so one can lube up the cables for the defrost, heat direction knob?
Do you have any videos on adjusting the sliding door? The sliding door on mine keeps coming off the top rail. The silicone pieces are pretty worn on the sliding mechanism (one may even be missing). So when I open up the sliding door, sometimes the door tends to fall over towards me.
Two or more videos on sliding door adjustments but sounds like you need to start with replacing the top roller. Adjust the door then replace the middle roller. Adjust the door again and finally replace the bottom roller and clean the track with garden hose. The door-side piece of this lower roller is too long so we want to disconnect the two halves and use only the roller side, leaving your bent mount on your door. amzn.to/3RMqR1T
Love how easy these door panels are to pop off and on again! Wouldn't spray white lithium grease serve as a better lubricant for the metal to metal bits? Or is there a particular reason you're using WD-40 on these?
WD-40 is good for cleaning the crud that makes it stiff. It is not a great lubricant because it does dry, but lithium grease, especially the spray stuff, will also dry and it leaves a crust full of dirt and grime. PB-Blaster lasts longer but smells so horrible I didn't want to use it on vans when people were camping in them at our meet-up.
If the speakers extend into the door they will interfere with the window, unfortunately. I tried to build a speaker box from the factor pockets and it was not great. Eventually this was my solution to the sad situation for 15 years. I talk a little about the how and why.... ruclips.net/video/iQbof17xV6Y/видео.html
The Van man saved me from aggravation again! Love this guy!!
The bottom of the main panel of my '06 seems to have a couple of spurs that are fitted into slots in the door metal and will need to be freed before any lifting up can happen.
Replaced my sliding door latch on a 2003 Freightliner with 2004 Leisure Travel RV Buildout i recently purchased. Will be sure to lubricate to prevent future failure. Love the channel.
i like that you don't need to use any trim removal tools to take off that door panel
I will be embarking on broken interior door handle diagnosis in a few days. Thank you!
Sending you good vibes and best wishes. Holler if I can help!
@@FloridaVanMan I'm in a very peculiar bind. I had replaced driver side exterior door handle a few weeks ago and never got it to control latch. The interior handle still worked. Then I had to travel and had some brake work done enroute. Despite me telling them that the exterior door handle didn't work and they'd have to use passenger side, some bonehead broke the new handle trying to open it. After the repair, I also noticed that the interior handle had less tension (probably due to them trying to use that to get in) at that point but still worked.....for a bit. I considered taking it back to them but I was 1000 miles from home and fed up with them at that point. Then the interior handle stopped working. It felt like it detached or broke from some part of the handle mechanism and no longer has any tension and won't open door. So neither handle on the driver side door will open the door. Today, following your excellent video I detached the door panel, and while I'm not able to pull it completely away from door frame, b/c it isn't open, I'm able to get to the backside. At first I tried just pulling on the cable (it appears that the cable is attached on both ends) hoping maybe I could just open it mechanically. That did nothing. Then interestingly, I tried using the interior handle....amazingly it's still able to control actuator and lock and unlock the door, but, won't open it. I can get my fingers into the holes on the inside of the latch. Hope that paints a reasonably clear picture. Is there any way to get this door open? Any ideas are appreciated.
I figured out how to open the front door without the use of interior or exterior door handles. The interior handle end of the cable, that controls the latch, slips into a hole on the back of the handle. It had popped out and wouldn't stay in under tension. Ultimately, it seems that the plastic bushing that clips into door handle was partially broken so it wasn't providing restraint when the cable was tensioned. I was able rotate it so more of it clipped into door panel and I bent the hook on the cable to try to force it to stay in place. Certainly a temp solution but at least I now know how to get out of this situation in the future. And as I suspected the exterior door handle was broken in exactly the same place as the previous one because people kept tugging on it without it being properly connected to latch. Brute force is almost never the smartest option folks. Just another obscure repair on my 2004 T1N with 280k on it. You never know what'll break next. At least the drive train is functioning as expected.
So good to see how these are done. I am always worried about breaking tabs/clips when you do not know where they are! Ps received a T-shirt at Christmas ' Its a TIN Thing' Love it. Do you think sometime in the future you could make a how to to remove the part of the dash so one can lube up the cables for the defrost, heat direction knob?
as always Florida rocks! THANK YOU
Just replaced that door lock cable,, I watched you at the boo and brew take that door apart, I learn fast,
Do you have any videos on adjusting the sliding door? The sliding door on mine keeps coming off the top rail. The silicone pieces are pretty worn on the sliding mechanism (one may even be missing). So when I open up the sliding door, sometimes the door tends to fall over towards me.
Two or more videos on sliding door adjustments but sounds like you need to start with replacing the top roller. Adjust the door then replace the middle roller. Adjust the door again and finally replace the bottom roller and clean the track with garden hose.
The door-side piece of this lower roller is too long so we want to disconnect the two halves and use only the roller side, leaving your bent mount on your door. amzn.to/3RMqR1T
ruclips.net/video/d5zZZpIwFGQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/lriR92CiSqo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/VgYPcCj1AuA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/DiHMvA41-uY/видео.html
Thanks!
Thank YOU!
Love how easy these door panels are to pop off and on again! Wouldn't spray white lithium grease serve as a better lubricant for the metal to metal bits? Or is there a particular reason you're using WD-40 on these?
WD-40 is good for cleaning the crud that makes it stiff. It is not a great lubricant because it does dry, but lithium grease, especially the spray stuff, will also dry and it leaves a crust full of dirt and grime. PB-Blaster lasts longer but smells so horrible I didn't want to use it on vans when people were camping in them at our meet-up.
Would it possible to add a couple of speakers in that panel without causing issues to the window? 🤔
maybe cancelling those useless mapholders under the arm rest?
If the speakers extend into the door they will interfere with the window, unfortunately. I tried to build a speaker box from the factor pockets and it was not great. Eventually this was my solution to the sad situation for 15 years. I talk a little about the how and why.... ruclips.net/video/iQbof17xV6Y/видео.html
Thanks for the tip!
Love these videos
thank you for a very helpful video!