I love that you actually went back to fix the issues instead of just calling it "good enough" at 97% for either of the axes. We need more people with your work ethic
When i grow up, i want to be a tinkerer like you. Must feel great, to fix things people gave up on. Not because its worth money, but because it feels great to do it, like solving a mystery, you feel a sense of achievement too. And, its fun opening up stuff. Never stop sir.
I used to be that kind of kid who used to pull apart TV remotes, and mechanical things, just to see how things worked. It's never too late or early to start tinkering, and once you become a tinkerer...you never stop being one. I'm in my 30's now. Especially now 3D printers have become affordable too. I mean it's fun to print novelty things like models or figures with them. But through learning how use free/web software like Tinkercad--if I need a replacement part for something (like a foot for one of those pedestal/standing fans), I can usually design and print one within an hour. If not, there's an entire community that shares files to print for things. Stay curious, get tinkering.
I absolutely love when you refer to things like "the green bit" as actual parts!! My grandfather used to call most things 'deals'. "Lemme see that there deal..." I enjoy having your videos on in the background while I 3d print stuff and file and sand. Good show old bean!
The step at 11:11 was literally the only way that worked for me. However for my case cleaning it didn't fix the issue, so I just pulled out the same component from a dead controller and put it in my controller I was having problems with. It works like a charm now. Thanks a lot!
Really love how detailed your video is about this topic and tbh I was getting nervous when you started taking the controller apart. I recently got scammed when I bought a xbox one elite controller that had stick drift in the left analog stick so I might end up selling it to get my money back but watching you fix the issue was god damn miraculous.
This works, just make sure not to bend the tracks on the small round part that comes out from the green square part, and if you do, just use a small screwdriver to bring it out so it can make contact with the carbon track.
I followed along with you, without testing with the app and I GREATLY appreciate you stepping through this as it helped me fix my controller. I thankfully didn't have to solder, I don't have spare parts laying about, so I was hoping I wouldn't have to. I also understand my controller more now which I also appreciate. Thank you for going to such effort for this video!
Hi Vince, I admire your perseverance and perhaps this video was all about deducing exactly what the cause of the problem was rather than just effecting a fix. As an old electronics engineer I know that the carbon track inside a rehostat will eventually wear and provied intermittent contact. So I would have just changed the old joystick pot for a new one. At only £4.00 that would be my prefered option. Cleaning a carbon track that is already breaking down can never be a long term fix. I am not criticizing you. I think this video is excellent and touches all bases. Well done and thanks for posting.
The green part that you opened is a potentiometer the part you took out is the wiper(middle pin on a potentiometer). It wipes against the carbon track in the green part. it will be in the potentiometer configuration rather than a variable resistor configuration as it will compare the resistance between the two resistors(wiper to one outer pin being one resistor and wiper to the other outer pin being the other resistor). Say it is a 10K potentiometer in the center both resistors are at 5K . When you press up the top resistor increases in value(up to 10K) and the bottom resistor decreases(down to 0K). When you press down the top resistor decreases in value and the bottom resistor increases.
Thank you, now you have explained it like that for the average layman to understand I completely get it. So if part of the carbon track was worn away (probably in it's depth) then the resistance would be more which could cause the stick drift. Or if residue or dirt was on the carbon track then this would also give a false reading. What I don't understand is why the stick didn't travel to 100% when it centred itself properly. You would think if it centered itself then the carbon track would be measuring OK. Maybe the far end of the track beyond the wiper was worn or broken in this instance :-)
@@Mymatevince There are two types of potentiometers linear and logarithmic. A linear pot(potentiometer) has a steady resistance all along its track. So on a 10K linear pot will be 0K at one end reading between one end contact and the wiper(middle pin). When you turn it a quarter way through its path it's 2.5K, at half way it's 5K, at 3/4 way it's 7.5K and fully turned it's 10K. On a logarithmic pot the resistance starts of changing slowly and then rises rapidly. So on a 10K pot at the start it will be at 0K, a quarter way turned at 1K, at halfway turned 3K, at 3/4 way turned at 6k and fully turned at 10K. That's a bit more info on potentiometers for you. And now... If on a pot the carbon track is damaged it can have the full resistance across it(from one end contact to the other end contact) but when the wiper gets to the damaged section it can't read a change in the resistance. More than likely in your case it is a linear pot and the damage to the carbon track is at the top and if you were to look at the track it would look a bit shinier where the damage was. This could result from wear but also can be caused by cleaning it. if you use a cotton bud to clean it and put a slight bit more pressure on one setion you can take away some of the carbon in that area. It's best not to use cotton buds on carbon tracks because of this and let them drip dry and allow the rest to evaporate.
@@pds8475 Perfect, you have amazing knowledge on a wide variety of my 'trying to fix' videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me and everyone reading this :-)
@@pds8475 Perfect, you have amazing knowledge on a wide variety of my 'trying to fix' videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me and everyone reading this :-)
@@Mymatevince I have been doing electronics professionally since I was 16 and have City and guilds and BTEC in electronics servicing. Also when I was 28 I did a HND in IT. Other than the time in higher education I was working in both analogue and digital electronics since 16 up until I had a stroke a couple of years ago at the age of 41. In the last position I had before the stroke I not only repaired the equipment. I also researched how to set up and repair the equipment but trained the other engineers how to setup, test and repair the equipment and wrote a database for the company. Now since the stroke I volunteer part time here in Bolton at a charity organisation called FIXIT teaching people with mental health problems basic IT.
This GENUINELY helped me fix my gamepad! I was too nervous to take it apart too much (my little discs were also dirty) but watching you do it gave me the direction I needed! Thanks so much!!!
I just finished fixing the drift on my controller. My left stick would not return to center after moving it vertically but it wasn't caused so much by dirt and grime in analog. It took a few nasty drops. I took it apart following your instructions. But what worked for me, and may work for others, is when you got to the part of removing the green sensor housing to take out that circular piece. Instead of removing the housing to remove the piece, I slightly separated it from the side to give the analog a little less tension, allowing the analog and sensor to fully return to center after moving it. I did a test with the accessories function on my Xbox, but I don't have the percentage test like you do. I will just test it in real time gaming and see if it moves normally. Anyway, thanks for the tutorial!
The most informative RUclips video on fixing Xbox controller drift! The green attachment to the stick is a "potentiometer", a resistor that changes its resistance value when black part is rotated. The controller's electronics sense the change in resistance and are calibrated to translate that variable signal into stick position/movement. Note that any foreign material in the potentiometer will alter its resistance value, thus causing drift. I fixed my controller's drift by cleaning the internals of the potentiometer with isopropyl alcohol (91%). I unsoldered the potentiometer so I could be thorough in cleaning and made sure to not leave any lint or other material behind. Worked perfectly after reconnecting to the board!
i remember doing the same repairs on the xbox 360 controllers, i enjoy watching your videos nice and simple breakdown of what you are trying to achieve.
Update 2 - a couple of months or so later and the drift is back, I repeated the cleaning process and this time I seem to have made it worse... Update 1 - a month or so later: the controller is still working without any drift! 12:16 that has fixed mine, so far. I didn't need to un-solder, just prised the green plastic part back, took out the disk, cleaned both the disk and inside the green part. Reassembled and my right stick (up) drift appears to have gone. I'll update this is the fix is temporary but it worked fine last night. Thanks for the detailed video.
Thank you for this video. I've had the same issue and wanted a more detailed video than, "just clean with alcohol" and you DEFINITELY provided. Thank you again. Going to order some spare parts today.
@@jayden2274 Don't need to be smart to solder, just need some basic tools and good hand eye coordination. And since gamers tend to have pretty good hand eye coordination, really you just need some basic tools.
It worked for me just opening the green cap, taking out the round piece, cleaning both with isopropil alcohol and putting it back together. But I had to do this 2 times, the first time it still drifted, so in the second time I cleaned more inside the green piece. I used pointy tweezers holding some cotton, so I could reach inside better. Also I managed to make the whole process from the front, without taking out the board. Thank you for the excellent video.
What worked for me was prying that green thingy and spraying that little disc with contact cleaner, no need to take it out! My daughter's pink remote is working again, yay! Thank you buddy!
nicely! except for a video from a professional directly from Microsoft. The best filmed and especially explained procedure and function of individual analog parts. Thank you very much. Fan from the Czech Republic
Man, you saved my controller! I just had to pop off the tiny green bits around the joystick, and when cleaned and replaced, the drift was completely gone. You are the best!
Thanks for another great video, I did a solder replacement complete on the 2 sticks. Still a little invovled and there are some very tiny resistors/caps that are magnifying glass small near the solder points - so small solder tip is the way to go and be careful as they are easy to collect on wiping excess solder away with the solder iron. I managed to resolder the caps that were undone - this is 10 times harder just soldering the sticks. All working now - the resistors may not of been critical as my solder job on them was pretty rough.
Nice job vince. I've got a couple of slightly faulty dual shock 4 controllers (both with analogue issues) and this video as given me some great tips on how to tackle them. Keep up the good work man!
Hello mate Vince. Great video and you really did a good job of troubeshooting. You started with the possible easy fixes and ended by doing the harder soldering fix. I followed along and tried the easy fix using contact cleaner after removing the toggle head. Tested and that didn't work for me either. I was to nervous after you removed the disk with tweezers inside the green box and had a little difficulty getting it back in, I think you called it the x and y cyliners or something like that. I popped each of the green boxes open from the top as you did and used the straw on my contact cleaner to poke it in and sprayed the cleaner directly in each of them from the top and then clicked them closed and tested and that took care of my drift. I am certain my problem was as you said a sticky brown substance had gotten into the controller and I was able to address it with the contact cleaner. I do appreciate watching the longer harder fix in case I ever have to take that on. Thanks again for the video mate. Appreciate you.
Last weekend I took apart a PS2 controller because the sticks didn't move very smoothly. I cleaned similar looking part you showed in this video, the analog stick mechanism, washed the plastic covers and when I started putting it together, noticed that one plastic tab was broken behind the right 1 shoulder button. Managed to glue it back using Revell plastic modelkit glue. Have used this glue more for repairing plastic parts than building modelcars :D
I'm so glad you made this video. On your last video fixing the joycon I was going to comment you can do the same with the Xbox controller. I'm also glad you figured out the best method to repair it. All those sensors are prone to failure. Usually it's the green part that the contact starts to wear away and create dead spots that makes the stick drift. the 1537 and newer 1708 models are easier to fix than the 1697/1698 which is the first controller with the headset jack and the elite (1698). They use a different type of solder that is super hard to remove without a hot air gun or extreme heat. Also if you don't correctly press the 2 separate boards together properly you will get false stick drift.
Also also, if anybody in the US would like to have me repair theirs or sell me your broken controllers, you can download an app called Mercari. I buy and sell controllers on there if you would like to sell me yours or purchase a custom controller. Use my link to get $10 towards any purchase. merc.li/PkSUEGb
Hey I used your link and signed up but the coupon didn’t go through, but more importantly I was wondering if u would be able to repair stick drift with 360 controllers? I have one that I would love to have repaired if possible
Thank you! I had left stick drift after I dropped my elite controller. Due to your video I was able to replace the sensor! So you just saved me a bunch of money. I bought a pack of twenty sensors ($9.99), so I'm good if it happens again. Thank you VERY much!
That was such an EXCELLENT video to watch. Not just because it was successful in its motives, but because it was so enjoyable to hear someone who is so discerning, making intelligent observations, and then intelligent judgements on those observations. I also love your diction - you speak very, very well. This is important as the English language is being progressively made simpler and cruder, abandoning the lovely nuances of distinctions between different words; words which were invented for good reason so as to make such distinctions for better understanding of situations and intent. So overall, good for you. Very impressed, and very enjoyable presentation as I say. God bless.
I wonder why there seems to be no software calibration for the analog stick. That would be the easiest solution to the max position problem because the resistance of the potentiometers always has a certain error.
@@OhSoTiredMan I tried it a couple of times on different Switch systems for customers who's kids where a little to hard on the joysticks and never had any success with recalibrating them. Windows 10 also has the option to recalibrate controllers but that never worked out for me either... I do know the science around pot-meters but my experience with trying it tells me that calibrating joysticks doesn't help. Most of the time they're really broken and you'll have to replace them completely or the pot-meter parts like he showed in the video. Well I hope it does last with the pot-meter repair like in the video because I'm sure as hell not going to desolder 14 contacts if 6 does the trick! : ) Sorry for my english...
method at 14:00 WORKED for me on a controller thats had stick drift since around the time this video was released. Good work! Update: Xbox one controller still working perfectly and just fixed my series x|s controller with this method as well
Thanks mate as an engineer I appreciated your in depth look at the controller. I bought a newish series x that came with free drift. I was expecting to have to replace the pot but it was mainly mechanical, the stick was not coming back to zero I cleaned debris and once I had popped the pot housing and very lightly cleaned the track (with no chemicals) I found the other stick had factory lube, so I very sparingly dabbed silicon lube on the shaft bushing and shaft not in the pot. Quick test with the tool and reassemble and as good as new.
@@Sheckweiler Hey buddy sure thing there are two green housing on the sides of the stick case, they are potentiometers. In my case the stick was not coming back to zero through resistance here (mechanical resistance) you can peel back the covers of these I just did one the Y axis (up - down) the only tricky bit you carefully remove the little wheel inside then clean inside the green case which is the track (the resistance strip the little wheel moves on) then get it al back together being carefull when seating the wheel so you do not crack it or deform it (it is fragile). Then a light lube to the stick axles and you should have a good as new stick.
@@makmcqueen8634 Ahhh...gotcha. Thanks for taking the time to clarify that. I did end up try this but it's still having problems for me. Being a not so great with soldering or confident I won't break something else, I found a shop to take care of it. Thanks again!
For next video, I'd recommend using DEOXIT D5. Tape head cleaners and electrical cleaners only gets dust and grease. The circular metal plate that you cleaned with the cotton swab has oxidation, so one application of Deoxit spray should clean it right up without taking it apart. Btw cleaning metal contact with only alcohol leaves residue which speeds up future oxidation.
you should be careful with deoxit d5. On older components it can actually be cleaning off layers of carbon from the trace. Deoxit will also dissolve any lubricant inside the pots making them feel clean and fast but ultimately shortening their lifespan by increasing abrasiveness. Best practice is to use very small amounts of deoxit and then reapply a lubricant. Half the time deoxit will work fine though, as a repair tech for the last ten years, I've ruined quite a few pots, sliders, and contacts before I realized that deoxit and isopropyl alcohol are just too much for well used carbon traces.
Great video. For me, the y axis was skipping the origin entirely, & would require you to push "back" to get it to origin. It was only registering like 3 positions, origin, max, min. Anyway, I got to the point of removing & cleaning the sensor, but the second time I opened the green clip, I managed to break its alignment (unsure how)- it wouldn't clip back in (even if the sensor was taken out). Eventually i accidentally snapped the green clip clean off, & I guess I'll be desoldering it & replacing it entirely when the new part arrives. Fortunately your video is thorough enough that even the process of replacing only part of the analog stick, (saving desoldering like 14 contact points) is explored.
Crazy amount of time spent in the name of science =D Nice work though, because its far easier to just swap out the specific pot rather than the whole stick. On my 360 stick I had no choice as the stick was sticking (pun not intended lol).
Haha, I have a job lot of these so hopefully some more might have stick drift and then I can test the pot change again to see if it is as successful :-)
Worked for me. These same sensors can be found in almost any analog stick, so you could rip apart most old controllers to get the same piece. The one I used was from a PS2 controller, 360 and PS4 controllers also work, as well as most third party ones. PS3 was the only exception I found, the analog stick potentiometers had a slightly different design.
6:15 "i'm using THIS" to spray it in there - noone can see what "this" is but luckily only a few second later you explained "this" helped with a Switch Joycon and got another can of "this", recorded it also only from the backside so noone can see what "this" is. But i will try my best to buy a can of "this" and hopefully after a few sprays with "that" will fix my analog stick for months ;)
Brilliant mate, just took off the green bit and cleaned it with white spirit and it's stopped scrolling endlesslesy when I'm trying to watch RUclips. Brilliant video, very informative. Thanks very much mate!
Opened my old elite as the usual happened bumpers broke. Ordered a new set had the thing opened for two days was murder trying to get all the buttons back. Eventually had enough left the green connection button out as it kept falling out. Pen in there and does the same job. So felt a achievement I had fixed it myself. But left stick control goes crazy now Can’t on a menu go down two places without it jumping back up. I salute you man because I wasn’t opening it again after two solid nights of messing about with it.
I had the same problem too. the metal thingy was in a really bad shape so I ended up ripping one off my old broken bootleg PS2 controller, surprisingly it fits nicely inside the green part lol. i guess analog stick design doesn't really change.
Vince i’ve been doing a lot of xbox one controller repairs since watching your videos and i’ve leaned how to jump from those potentiometer’s legs to capacitors if you were unlucky while unsoldering the legs and burned the pads surrounding them. If you ever go about them and need some help i drew a diagram and i am sure it could help a lot of viewers as there isn’t any videos about how to fix controllers with burnt pads!
I think the sensitivity difference is because you bent the copper on the little bit you took out and cleaned. If you bent it back proper, or bent it even further it might actually become MORE sensitive.
Very interesting indeed. I'd say the green bit with the track on is the bit that wears down. If these are in a factory what test would they use to check them, ohms? if so what ohms is good or bad or is it just the difference between centre back and front. It would have been nice to see the ohms difference between the bought and the replacement. The fragile bit in the mix is the coating. The thinning of this coating or inferior coating in the first place are the problem. There is a chance that the arm is coated as well. Wear on the micro switch can be delayed with a shim but the end result is the same, swap it out. Each daily contact has the chance of leaving deposits on one of the surfaces and shortening its life. Having just replaced six sticks that all still creep bar one, it would be nice to have a simple check before soldering them in. Luckily they all feel like new sticks or I'd be cheesed off. So i've ordered some single Pots and I'll see what quality checks I can do between them all. I'd like to think there is a way of repairing them, maybe by bending an arm so it marks a new track on unused material, or depositing new material with a pen of sorts. I have repaired old volume Pots by bending an arm but the size is much bigger and easier to work with. But bending an arm is much better than all that's involved in buying a new one and fitting it. After looking at them under magnification this is impressive micro electronics that we expect to last forever and bending an arm successfully would be a challenge, and a job for a steady arm which i don't have.
Well worked out Vince. I've been subbed for a long time to your channel and your skills have really come along... Almost OEM :) Now come along and fix that walkman with the digital display.
Legend thanks for that. Mine drifted out to 82% on the vertical plane right stick. Cleaned that disk and carbon track and now its fixed. All axis reach 100% sensitivity.
Didn't need to change anything out. Can't believe how much gunk came off the copper contacts! Stick drift gone! Well done sir! You've saved so many in game lives here 😂😂
this is the best video I've found as far as showing everything it can be. When I finally removed the little disk, One of the wires was bent so I'm assuming that's what's causing the drift.I don't have another disk to replace it with so, I'm out of luck now.
This repair video has helped me to fix the left analog stick. I did had to open up the controller and clean the copper disc inside of the component with alcohol. 100% this has help. Thank you!
This is actually very informative, glad someone had many parts to test and try.I might do this in the future for my old controller since it's completely dead I'd need to redo 12 points but that would be fine. Thanks Vince!
My NEW controller had started pulling left after just a week, 12:00 , this helped me, Thank you. Those 2 bendy pieces on that track were stuck together, I guess a factory defect or something, many thanks man.
Fantastic video! I had right stick drift up. I wiggled off the green plate on the analog stick and thanks to your video I knew what axis to fiddle with that seemed to fix my issue I have it ever so slightly pulled away. It drifts if fully clipped in.
FYI, you can use parts from old Xbox 360 controllers to fix the analog sticks. That piece you take out and clean on the side of the analog box can be replaced with the ones from any 360 controller you have kicking around. I just did it with a brand new model Xbox one controller that got stick drift afrer only 2 months.
Awesome! I bought a used controller today and had this issue. I did not take mine apart as far as you at 11:11 but just pried the little green cap off the side and drowned it in isopropyl alcohol, wiggled it and snapped it back on. Mine was worse at 67% and now it stays perfectly at 0! THANKS!
I actually replaced the left thumb stick because sprint wasn’t working in call of duty and I soldered the new part on and it worked fine for like 4 months then the same problem occurred again and I’m still using the same controller.
I got new ones for like £1 each on eBay including postage, they were 100% identical with all markings and I used a solder pump too n it made this job a million times easier but I used a 60/40 solder from toolstation which has been pretty good to me but I'm no professional I just give anything a go. I'm like you, I'd never used or been on a rodeo bull before but one broke at work so I had a go at fixing it and managed it, even managed to program a new inverter in it too. Even managed to get a lil bonus for it too
I no this is a few years old video but thanks to you I found out my issue with my controller just like to say thank you very much. And I’m also a subscriber. For a few years now.
Could you do me a favor and post links to where I can find the products needed to re soader and remove old soader. I would love to attempt this but I always get half way through and give up once I get to the soader portion.
Woof you just saved me $85, controller joystick was mildly drifting but moreless just bottoming out at the middle point of up axis and now we are back to full throws, big thanks.
Just used this vid to guide me through replacing the tiny ring on the left stick of my sea of thieves controller, it's working great thx for the video.!!! Favourite controller back in action😀
It's the exact same procedure. The brand new axial modules can be bought inexpensively on ebay. You can buy OEM replacements or better than OEM for not much more. A little tip, while ordering the replacements look for replacements for the black 'tower' that you push with your thumb but get ones for Xbox 1. They fit perfectly and have a very nice domed top with roughness around the edges as opposed to the PS4 style that is more of a dish with very little grip texturing. ;)
Why does stick drift keep happening? MS released a video when the console launched about spending 100 million on controller development. Does this happen to a lot of people?
I love that you actually went back to fix the issues instead of just calling it "good enough" at 97% for either of the axes. We need more people with your work ethic
Excellent point Woongsin
Microsoft When they get it to 70% quality: "Good enough"
Brand loyalty is just a form of mental slavery.
When i grow up, i want to be a tinkerer like you. Must feel great, to fix things people gave up on. Not because its worth money, but because it feels great to do it, like solving a mystery, you feel a sense of achievement too. And, its fun opening up stuff. Never stop sir.
I love this kind of stuff too! Nothing more satisfying that fixing something yourself even if it does take longer than it's worth
I used to be that kind of kid who used to pull apart TV remotes, and mechanical things, just to see how things worked. It's never too late or early to start tinkering, and once you become a tinkerer...you never stop being one. I'm in my 30's now.
Especially now 3D printers have become affordable too. I mean it's fun to print novelty things like models or figures with them. But through learning how use free/web software like Tinkercad--if I need a replacement part for something (like a foot for one of those pedestal/standing fans), I can usually design and print one within an hour. If not, there's an entire community that shares files to print for things.
Stay curious, get tinkering.
I'm 13 and doing this stuff now
Not great at it yet tho
@@jojotrashbagins7 Practice makes perfect, just keep going!
@@phantomgunz1167 thanks I Will
Finally, someone who takes the time to find the real source of the problem and debunks all the other so called "fixes" along the way. Thank you!!
The most over-engineering (comprehensive) guide I've ever seen for fixing an xbox controller. Thanks a bunch!
I absolutely love when you refer to things like "the green bit" as actual parts!! My grandfather used to call most things 'deals'. "Lemme see that there deal..." I enjoy having your videos on in the background while I 3d print stuff and file and sand. Good show old bean!
Thank you :-) Yes the 'thingymebob' and the 'what's it called' are my technical terms for most things :-)
One of my favorites here in the US is "doomaflogit" (doom-a-flajet). :)
@@Mymatevince please throw an oojamaflip in your next video :)
The step at 11:11 was literally the only way that worked for me. However for my case cleaning it didn't fix the issue, so I just pulled out the same component from a dead controller and put it in my controller I was having problems with. It works like a charm now. Thanks a lot!
Really love how detailed your video is about this topic and tbh I was getting nervous when you started taking the controller apart. I recently got scammed when I bought a xbox one elite controller that had stick drift in the left analog stick so I might end up selling it to get my money back but watching you fix the issue was god damn miraculous.
This works, just make sure not to bend the tracks on the small round part that comes out from the green square part, and if you do, just use a small screwdriver to bring it out so it can make contact with the carbon track.
I followed along with you, without testing with the app and I GREATLY appreciate you stepping through this as it helped me fix my controller. I thankfully didn't have to solder, I don't have spare parts laying about, so I was hoping I wouldn't have to. I also understand my controller more now which I also appreciate. Thank you for going to such effort for this video!
Hi Vince, I admire your perseverance and perhaps this video was all about deducing exactly what the cause of the problem was rather than just effecting a fix. As an old electronics engineer I know that the carbon track inside a rehostat will eventually wear and provied intermittent contact. So I would have just changed the old joystick pot for a new one. At only £4.00 that would be my prefered option. Cleaning a carbon track that is already breaking down can never be a long term fix. I am not criticizing you. I think this video is excellent and touches all bases. Well done and thanks for posting.
The green part that you opened is a potentiometer the part you took out is the wiper(middle pin on a potentiometer). It wipes against the carbon track in the green part. it will be in the potentiometer configuration rather than a variable resistor configuration as it will compare the resistance between the two resistors(wiper to one outer pin being one resistor and wiper to the other outer pin being the other resistor). Say it is a 10K potentiometer in the center both resistors are at 5K . When you press up the top resistor increases in value(up to 10K) and the bottom resistor decreases(down to 0K). When you press down the top resistor decreases in value and the bottom resistor increases.
Thank you, now you have explained it like that for the average layman to understand I completely get it. So if part of the carbon track was worn away (probably in it's depth) then the resistance would be more which could cause the stick drift. Or if residue or dirt was on the carbon track then this would also give a false reading. What I don't understand is why the stick didn't travel to 100% when it centred itself properly. You would think if it centered itself then the carbon track would be measuring OK. Maybe the far end of the track beyond the wiper was worn or broken in this instance :-)
@@Mymatevince There are two types of potentiometers linear and logarithmic. A linear pot(potentiometer) has a steady resistance all along its track. So on a 10K linear pot will be 0K at one end reading between one end contact and the wiper(middle pin). When you turn it a quarter way through its path it's 2.5K, at half way it's 5K, at 3/4 way it's 7.5K and fully turned it's 10K. On a logarithmic pot the resistance starts of changing slowly and then rises rapidly. So on a 10K pot at the start it will be at 0K, a quarter way turned at 1K, at halfway turned 3K, at 3/4 way turned at 6k and fully turned at 10K.
That's a bit more info on potentiometers for you. And now...
If on a pot the carbon track is damaged it can have the full resistance across it(from one end contact to the other end contact) but when the wiper gets to the damaged section it can't read a change in the resistance. More than likely in your case it is a linear pot and the damage to the carbon track is at the top and if you were to look at the track it would look a bit shinier where the damage was. This could result from wear but also can be caused by cleaning it. if you use a cotton bud to clean it and put a slight bit more pressure on one setion you can take away some of the carbon in that area. It's best not to use cotton buds on carbon tracks because of this and let them drip dry and allow the rest to evaporate.
@@pds8475 Perfect, you have amazing knowledge on a wide variety of my 'trying to fix' videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me and everyone reading this :-)
@@pds8475 Perfect, you have amazing knowledge on a wide variety of my 'trying to fix' videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me and everyone reading this :-)
@@Mymatevince I have been doing electronics professionally since I was 16 and have City and guilds and BTEC in electronics servicing. Also when I was 28 I did a HND in IT. Other than the time in higher education I was working in both analogue and digital electronics since 16 up until I had a stroke a couple of years ago at the age of 41. In the last position I had before the stroke I not only repaired the equipment. I also researched how to set up and repair the equipment but trained the other engineers how to setup, test and repair the equipment and wrote a database for the company. Now since the stroke I volunteer part time here in Bolton at a charity organisation called FIXIT teaching people with mental health problems basic IT.
This GENUINELY helped me fix my gamepad! I was too nervous to take it apart too much (my little discs were also dirty) but watching you do it gave me the direction I needed! Thanks so much!!!
I just finished fixing the drift on my controller. My left stick would not return to center after moving it vertically but it wasn't caused so much by dirt and grime in analog. It took a few nasty drops. I took it apart following your instructions. But what worked for me, and may work for others, is when you got to the part of removing the green sensor housing to take out that circular piece. Instead of removing the housing to remove the piece, I slightly separated it from the side to give the analog a little less tension, allowing the analog and sensor to fully return to center after moving it. I did a test with the accessories function on my Xbox, but I don't have the percentage test like you do. I will just test it in real time gaming and see if it moves normally. Anyway, thanks for the tutorial!
The most informative RUclips video on fixing Xbox controller drift! The green attachment to the stick is a "potentiometer", a resistor that changes its resistance value when black part is rotated. The controller's electronics sense the change in resistance and are calibrated to translate that variable signal into stick position/movement. Note that any foreign material in the potentiometer will alter its resistance value, thus causing drift.
I fixed my controller's drift by cleaning the internals of the potentiometer with isopropyl alcohol (91%). I unsoldered the potentiometer so I could be thorough in cleaning and made sure to not leave any lint or other material behind. Worked perfectly after reconnecting to the board!
i remember doing the same repairs on the xbox 360 controllers, i enjoy watching your videos nice and simple breakdown of what you are trying to achieve.
Update 2 - a couple of months or so later and the drift is back, I repeated the cleaning process and this time I seem to have made it worse...
Update 1 - a month or so later: the controller is still working without any drift!
12:16 that has fixed mine, so far.
I didn't need to un-solder, just prised the green plastic part back, took out the disk, cleaned both the disk and inside the green part. Reassembled and my right stick (up) drift appears to have gone. I'll update this is the fix is temporary but it worked fine last night.
Thanks for the detailed video.
Tim Stanley help!
@@zacharysuniga1638 How?
Tim Stanley also worked for me. Will update how long it lasts
louis rivera it still work
@@louisrivera5277 how long?
Thank you for this video. I've had the same issue and wanted a more detailed video than, "just clean with alcohol" and you DEFINITELY provided. Thank you again. Going to order some spare parts today.
I wish I was smart
Wait. Would alcohol actually work though???
Gummy Bears m for some people
@@gummybears3389 for some
@@jayden2274 Don't need to be smart to solder, just need some basic tools and good hand eye coordination. And since gamers tend to have pretty good hand eye coordination, really you just need some basic tools.
It worked for me just opening the green cap, taking out the round piece, cleaning both with isopropil alcohol and putting it back together.
But I had to do this 2 times, the first time it still drifted, so in the second time I cleaned more inside the green piece. I used pointy tweezers holding some cotton, so I could reach inside better.
Also I managed to make the whole process from the front, without taking out the board.
Thank you for the excellent video.
What worked for me was prying that green thingy and spraying that little disc with contact cleaner, no need to take it out! My daughter's pink remote is working again, yay! Thank you buddy!
Excellent, well done. Thanks for the comment :-)
Is the contact cleaner what he sprayed after the caned air didn't work?
nicely! except for a video from a professional directly from Microsoft. The best filmed and especially explained procedure and function of individual analog parts. Thank you very much. Fan from the Czech Republic
Thanks for this guide, very well detailed and helpful! Managed to fix the drift on my favorite controller thanks to you. Cheers!
Man, you saved my controller! I just had to pop off the tiny green bits around the joystick, and when cleaned and replaced, the drift was completely gone. You are the best!
Man, my mate Vince always gets the hard way on everything, just wow!
Thanks for another great video, I did a solder replacement complete on the 2 sticks. Still a little invovled and there are some very tiny resistors/caps that are magnifying glass small near the solder points - so small solder tip is the way to go and be careful as they are easy to collect on wiping excess solder away with the solder iron. I managed to resolder the caps that were undone - this is 10 times harder just soldering the sticks. All working now - the resistors may not of been critical as my solder job on them was pretty rough.
Nice job vince. I've got a couple of slightly faulty dual shock 4 controllers (both with analogue issues) and this video as given me some great tips on how to tackle them. Keep up the good work man!
I have one that is straight up dead, I did charge the battery with a 18650 charging circuit from a power bank but it is still dead
Hello mate Vince. Great video and you really did a good job of troubeshooting. You started with the possible easy fixes and ended by doing the harder soldering fix. I followed along and tried the easy fix using contact cleaner after removing the toggle head. Tested and that didn't work for me either. I was to nervous after you removed the disk with tweezers inside the green box and had a little difficulty getting it back in, I think you called it the x and y cyliners or something like that. I popped each of the green boxes open from the top as you did and used the straw on my contact cleaner to poke it in and sprayed the cleaner directly in each of them from the top and then clicked them closed and tested and that took care of my drift. I am certain my problem was as you said a sticky brown substance had gotten into the controller and I was able to address it with the contact cleaner. I do appreciate watching the longer harder fix in case I ever have to take that on. Thanks again for the video mate. Appreciate you.
Thanks!
Fixed my controller by 98%. But much MUCH better then before!
Last weekend I took apart a PS2 controller because the sticks didn't move very smoothly. I cleaned similar looking part you showed in this video, the analog stick mechanism, washed the plastic covers and when I started putting it together, noticed that one plastic tab was broken behind the right 1 shoulder button. Managed to glue it back using Revell plastic modelkit glue. Have used this glue more for repairing plastic parts than building modelcars :D
Thank you so much for this man! Fixed my controller within minutes. Absolute legend.
Thank you. Controller is fixed. I did have to clean out the sensor by opening it up, but your video made it so easy.
I'm so glad you made this video. On your last video fixing the joycon I was going to comment you can do the same with the Xbox controller. I'm also glad you figured out the best method to repair it. All those sensors are prone to failure. Usually it's the green part that the contact starts to wear away and create dead spots that makes the stick drift. the 1537 and newer 1708 models are easier to fix than the 1697/1698 which is the first controller with the headset jack and the elite (1698). They use a different type of solder that is super hard to remove without a hot air gun or extreme heat. Also if you don't correctly press the 2 separate boards together properly you will get false stick drift.
Also also, if anybody in the US would like to have me repair theirs or sell me your broken controllers, you can download an app called Mercari. I buy and sell controllers on there if you would like to sell me yours or purchase a custom controller. Use my link to get $10 towards any purchase. merc.li/PkSUEGb
Thanks for the info :-)
Mine because I threw it across the room
Hey I used your link and signed up but the coupon didn’t go through, but more importantly I was wondering if u would be able to repair stick drift with 360 controllers? I have one that I would love to have repaired if possible
@@Nayef Yes I can. It's the same process as the Xbox One. The coupon should be applied once you begin purchase a product.
Thank you! I had left stick drift after I dropped my elite controller. Due to your video I was able to replace the sensor! So you just saved me a bunch of money. I bought a pack of twenty sensors ($9.99), so I'm good if it happens again. Thank you VERY much!
That was such an EXCELLENT video to watch. Not just because it was successful in its motives, but because it was so enjoyable to hear someone who is so discerning, making intelligent observations, and then intelligent judgements on those observations. I also love your diction - you speak very, very well.
This is important as the English language is being progressively made simpler and cruder, abandoning the lovely nuances of distinctions between different words; words which were invented for good reason so as to make such distinctions for better understanding of situations and intent.
So overall, good for you. Very impressed, and very enjoyable presentation as I say.
God bless.
Cleaning the sensor actually WORKED, OMGGGGGG!!
For about 3 days.
Loli noooo I just fixed it. Welp now I know
Will I have to fix it every 3 days lol
@@N1TEcore it's been 3 days did you have to clean it again? Lol
Pacific Panda Creations yea but it got worse so I smashed it
Lol you got exited and then I hit read more and it said for about 3 days
Hi, thank you for sharing this. I opened and cleaned my own controller with a stick drift following your guidance and now it works perfectly. 🙂
I wonder why there seems to be no software calibration for the analog stick. That would be the easiest solution to the max position problem because the resistance of the potentiometers always has a certain error.
The switch has a calibration and the 3ds. I'm surprised they haven't implemented this for the xbox and playstation.
@@OhSoTiredMan I tried it a couple of times on different Switch systems for customers who's kids where a little to hard on the joysticks and never had any success with recalibrating them. Windows 10 also has the option to recalibrate controllers but that never worked out for me either... I do know the science around pot-meters but my experience with trying it tells me that calibrating joysticks doesn't help. Most of the time they're really broken and you'll have to replace them completely or the pot-meter parts like he showed in the video. Well I hope it does last with the pot-meter repair like in the video because I'm sure as hell not going to desolder 14 contacts if 6 does the trick! : )
Sorry for my english...
@@kenalfaroponce4778 Yeah, it's definitely the mechanism inside the stick that broke,
Even old ps2 had very smart calibration
This is useful because it’s easier to know when your stick is drifting.
method at 14:00 WORKED for me on a controller thats had stick drift since around the time this video was released. Good work!
Update: Xbox one controller still working perfectly and just fixed my series x|s controller with this method as well
Just fixed mine with the step at 11:11! Thanks a lot!!!
Xbox one controller is durable?
does it still work?
Same here! thx
not for me. did all the steps still the same.
Did it for me as well
Thanks mate as an engineer I appreciated your in depth look at the controller. I bought a newish series x that came with free drift. I was expecting to have to replace the pot but it was mainly mechanical, the stick was not coming back to zero I cleaned debris and once I had popped the pot housing and very lightly cleaned the track (with no chemicals) I found the other stick had factory lube, so I very sparingly dabbed silicon lube on the shaft bushing and shaft not in the pot. Quick test with the tool and reassemble and as good as new.
Can you say a little more? Whatya mean by pot? Are you referring to the green part? And whatya mean my the track? Thanks 🙏
@@Sheckweiler Hey buddy sure thing there are two green housing on the sides of the stick case, they are potentiometers. In my case the stick was not coming back to zero through resistance here (mechanical resistance) you can peel back the covers of these I just did one the Y axis (up - down) the only tricky bit you carefully remove the little wheel inside then clean inside the green case which is the track (the resistance strip the little wheel moves on) then get it al back together being carefull when seating the wheel so you do not crack it or deform it (it is fragile). Then a light lube to the stick axles and you should have a good as new stick.
@@makmcqueen8634 Ahhh...gotcha. Thanks for taking the time to clarify that. I did end up try this but it's still having problems for me. Being a not so great with soldering or confident I won't break something else, I found a shop to take care of it. Thanks again!
For next video, I'd recommend using DEOXIT D5. Tape head cleaners and electrical cleaners only gets dust and grease. The circular metal plate that you cleaned with the cotton swab has oxidation, so one application of Deoxit spray should clean it right up without taking it apart. Btw cleaning metal contact with only alcohol leaves residue which speeds up future oxidation.
Thanks for the tip, I just looked it up and it is quite pricey but it looks like the reviews are very good :-)
you should be careful with deoxit d5. On older components it can actually be cleaning off layers of carbon from the trace. Deoxit will also dissolve any lubricant inside the pots making them feel clean and fast but ultimately shortening their lifespan by increasing abrasiveness. Best practice is to use very small amounts of deoxit and then reapply a lubricant. Half the time deoxit will work fine though, as a repair tech for the last ten years, I've ruined quite a few pots, sliders, and contacts before I realized that deoxit and isopropyl alcohol are just too much for well used carbon traces.
Great video.
For me, the y axis was skipping the origin entirely, & would require you to push "back" to get it to origin. It was only registering like 3 positions, origin, max, min.
Anyway, I got to the point of removing & cleaning the sensor, but the second time I opened the green clip, I managed to break its alignment (unsure how)- it wouldn't clip back in (even if the sensor was taken out).
Eventually i accidentally snapped the green clip clean off, & I guess I'll be desoldering it & replacing it entirely when the new part arrives.
Fortunately your video is thorough enough that even the process of replacing only part of the analog stick, (saving desoldering like 14 contact points) is explored.
Crazy amount of time spent in the name of science =D Nice work though, because its far easier to just swap out the specific pot rather than the whole stick. On my 360 stick I had no choice as the stick was sticking (pun not intended lol).
Haha, I have a job lot of these so hopefully some more might have stick drift and then I can test the pot change again to see if it is as successful :-)
Worked for me. These same sensors can be found in almost any analog stick, so you could rip apart most old controllers to get the same piece. The one I used was from a PS2 controller, 360 and PS4 controllers also work, as well as most third party ones. PS3 was the only exception I found, the analog stick potentiometers had a slightly different design.
6:15 "i'm using THIS" to spray it in there - noone can see what "this" is but luckily only a few second later you explained "this" helped with a Switch Joycon and got another can of "this", recorded it also only from the backside so noone can see what "this" is. But i will try my best to buy a can of "this" and hopefully after a few sprays with "that" will fix my analog stick for months ;)
Exactly this pissed me off
Brilliant mate, just took off the green bit and cleaned it with white spirit and it's stopped scrolling endlesslesy when I'm trying to watch RUclips. Brilliant video, very informative. Thanks very much mate!
Can I just send you my controller 😂
💀
ye same i just tested my controller and i got 54% out of place so big oof
Same! I have a limited edition batman controller that repair services won't fix because it is not actually made by microsoft
@@peiree5704 i got 70%😔
JOICY PYNADATH Same bruh my controller drifts to like 73-80%
Opened my old elite as the usual happened bumpers broke. Ordered a new set had the thing opened for two days was murder trying to get all the buttons back. Eventually had enough left the green connection button out as it kept falling out. Pen in there and does the same job. So felt a achievement I had fixed it myself. But left stick control goes crazy now Can’t on a menu go down two places without it jumping back up. I salute you man because I wasn’t opening it again after two solid nights of messing about with it.
I had the same problem too. the metal thingy was in a really bad shape so I ended up ripping one off my old broken bootleg PS2 controller, surprisingly it fits nicely inside the green part lol.
i guess analog stick design doesn't really change.
I just used the take apart method and IT WORKED!! I have been trying for months and even bought a new controller. This helps so much!
This is the only video on Xbox 1 controller stick drift that matters.
I'm only here because the Xbox stick is too tight
ruclips.net/video/v2vslwfSBck/видео.html
Vince i’ve been doing a lot of xbox one controller repairs since watching your videos and i’ve leaned how to jump from those potentiometer’s legs to capacitors if you were unlucky while unsoldering the legs and burned the pads surrounding them. If you ever go about them and need some help i drew a diagram and i am sure it could help a lot of viewers as there isn’t any videos about how to fix controllers with burnt pads!
I think the sensitivity difference is because you bent the copper on the little bit you took out and cleaned.
If you bent it back proper, or bent it even further it might actually become MORE sensitive.
Hats off man, I would be throwing that out after 2 unsuccessful tries or be happy with 97%. Persistence is what I learnt from this video 👍
Wow, I wouldn't have guessed it was that one tiny part on the side but it makes sense now. Good find!
Very interesting indeed.
I'd say the green bit with the track on is the bit that wears down. If these are in a factory what test would they use to check them, ohms? if so what ohms is good or bad or is it just the difference between centre back and front. It would have been nice to see the ohms difference between the bought and the replacement.
The fragile bit in the mix is the coating. The thinning of this coating or inferior coating in the first place are the problem. There is a chance that the arm is coated as well. Wear on the micro switch can be delayed with a shim but the end result is the same, swap it out. Each daily contact has the chance of leaving deposits on one of the surfaces and shortening its life.
Having just replaced six sticks that all still creep bar one, it would be nice to have a simple check before soldering them in. Luckily they all feel like new sticks or I'd be cheesed off. So i've ordered some single Pots and I'll see what quality checks I can do between them all.
I'd like to think there is a way of repairing them, maybe by bending an arm so it marks a new track on unused material, or depositing new material with a pen of sorts. I have repaired old volume Pots by bending an arm but the size is much bigger and easier to work with. But bending an arm is much better than all that's involved in buying a new one and fitting it.
After looking at them under magnification this is impressive micro electronics that we expect to last forever and bending an arm successfully would be a challenge, and a job for a steady arm which i don't have.
Well worked out Vince. I've been subbed for a long time to your channel and your skills have really come along... Almost OEM :)
Now come along and fix that walkman with the digital display.
Legend thanks for that. Mine drifted out to 82% on the vertical plane right stick.
Cleaned that disk and carbon track and now its fixed. All axis reach 100% sensitivity.
8:08 that sound though xD it sound like its being played from a video that they played in the microphone lol
Didn't need to change anything out. Can't believe how much gunk came off the copper contacts! Stick drift gone! Well done sir! You've saved so many in game lives here 😂😂
Hey man, I did exactly what you did and my drift is no longer there. This is awesome tutorial video, 100%
dirk verhage what exact part helped?
this is the best video I've found as far as showing everything it can be. When I finally removed the little disk, One of the wires was bent so I'm assuming that's what's causing the drift.I don't have another disk to replace it with so, I'm out of luck now.
I'm glad I came across your channel. This is going to help me a lot since I constantly get stick drift on my controller. Thank you :)
This repair video has helped me to fix the left analog stick. I did had to open up the controller and clean the copper disc inside of the component with alcohol. 100% this has help. Thank you!
Just throw it against the wall In a fit of rage, that always helps
Thanks to your video, I was able to fix one of my controllers that had a drifting stick! Thank you and I hope you're doing well!
This is actually very informative, glad someone had many parts to test and try.I might do this in the future for my old controller since it's completely dead I'd need to redo 12 points but that would be fine. Thanks Vince!
My NEW controller had started pulling left after just a week, 12:00 , this helped me, Thank you. Those 2 bendy pieces on that track were stuck together, I guess a factory defect or something, many thanks man.
This is the only vid I've seen all day that goes through everything. Love it bro
Fantastic video! I had right stick drift up. I wiggled off the green plate on the analog stick and thanks to your video I knew what axis to fiddle with that seemed to fix my issue I have it ever so slightly pulled away. It drifts if fully clipped in.
amazing video! absolutely love the fact that you went through everything step by step, keep up the good work :)
you're a genius. Controllers been broken for over 2 years so I haven't bothered play xbox or buy a new one and now its fixed within an hour
16:49 was a very interesting view on slotting into place 😂
I like this guy because he gives you fixes for everything. Oh yeah Vince does this work on Nintendo switch pro controller.
Vince have you ever thought about starting a patron? We love to sponsor you! Keep it up
FYI, you can use parts from old Xbox 360 controllers to fix the analog sticks. That piece you take out and clean on the side of the analog box can be replaced with the ones from any 360 controller you have kicking around. I just did it with a brand new model Xbox one controller that got stick drift afrer only 2 months.
Cool video Vince... loving this little tips fix for the controller
Just used your video today with my 2 controllers and totally helped! Thank you big time!!! 100% back to normal!
I just stood on my joystick and it fixed it lol.
Mike Pence i can’t tell if your serious
@@PolishDiamondGuy don't question it I fixed my ild xbox 360 red ring of death by punching my console.....
@@stonedsavage7814 Yeah I fixed my mic by throwing it against the ground full force
@@stonedsavage7814 bro I go ape shit on my 360 when I want to play it and it works fine. Otherwise the disk tray is opening and closing
@@firelinksshrine1695 lol
Awesome! I bought a used controller today and had this issue. I did not take mine apart as far as you at 11:11 but just pried the little green cap off the side and drowned it in isopropyl alcohol, wiggled it and snapped it back on. Mine was worse at 67% and now it stays perfectly at 0! THANKS!
I actually replaced the left thumb stick because sprint wasn’t working in call of duty and I soldered the new part on and it worked fine for like 4 months then the same problem occurred again and I’m still using the same controller.
You should definitely try to clean the analog sticks as the click on the stick doesn't usually break just gets dirty and can't click anymore lol
I got new ones for like £1 each on eBay including postage, they were 100% identical with all markings and I used a solder pump too n it made this job a million times easier but I used a 60/40 solder from toolstation which has been pretty good to me but I'm no professional I just give anything a go. I'm like you, I'd never used or been on a rodeo bull before but one broke at work so I had a go at fixing it and managed it, even managed to program a new inverter in it too. Even managed to get a lil bonus for it too
what kind of laptop/netbook are you using to test the controller?
I no this is a few years old video but thanks to you I found out my issue with my controller just like to say thank you very much. And I’m also a subscriber. For a few years now.
Could you do me a favor and post links to where I can find the products needed to re soader and remove old soader. I would love to attempt this but I always get half way through and give up once I get to the soader portion.
Yess
Thanks a lot, I've fixed mine by following your steps, however I just straightened the two small spikes in the metal piece inside the stick.
O wait, I actually have this on 2 of my controllers, thnks
Baby Poodles same
Same
Woof you just saved me $85, controller joystick was mildly drifting but moreless just bottoming out at the middle point of up axis and now we are back to full throws, big thanks.
Now this is a helpful tutorial, THANKS you just confirmed the grey part inside the green plastic is the thing that matters =D subbed
I did this method 1:11 and it worked, thank you, you saved me some money on buying a new controller.
Well, if nothing else, I can now foresee a day in about 15 years when those little green disks will sell for a mint as a repair part. LOL
Just used this vid to guide me through replacing the tiny ring on the left stick of my sea of thieves controller, it's working great thx for the video.!!! Favourite controller back in action😀
Love this channel
This worked for me, really useful. Thanks from Spain!
Hi Vince why don’t you have ago at fixing a faulty laptop 💻
Thanks, this did help. I had a load of hair in both sticks. Both were drifting slightly and this video helped.
When you click on the thumbstick on my controller it feels weird and it gets drift when you click it
Same thing happened to my last controller. Good luck
11:11 worked like a treat. Drift was so annoying but now it’s fixed :D
Fantastic once again! Please do it for ps4
It's the exact same procedure. The brand new axial modules can be bought inexpensively on ebay. You can buy OEM replacements or better than OEM for not much more. A little tip, while ordering the replacements look for replacements for the black 'tower' that you push with your thumb but get ones for Xbox 1. They fit perfectly and have a very nice domed top with roughness around the edges as opposed to the PS4 style that is more of a dish with very little grip texturing. ;)
thanks Vince you've opened up my eyes and help me with my controller issue you're my number one go to . once again. thanks
Why does stick drift keep happening? MS released a video when the console launched about spending 100 million on controller development. Does this happen to a lot of people?
MS went the cheap route with their joysticks, they have an average life of 3 months. MS goes the cheap route nearly every opportunity they get.
This also affected the performance of the control sticks of the Nintendo Switch.