The "square drive" screws you mentioned are excellent!! They were invented in Canada officially as the Robertson. The proper Robertson has tapered sides so that it grips the screw as you showed. Canadians put up with that since we get much better torque transfer and camming out compared to the Philips, the Philips being designed to cam out to limit the torque transfer. Square drive screws are not real Robertsons because they are not tapered. In fact, the driver buys are made using a radius cut from a grinding wheel, which does not taper in the same fashion, causing the screws to fall off the driver. P.L. Robertson himself used to sell his product by putting a screw into his customer's wall, leaving the driver in the screw, take his client to lunch and when they got back, the screwdriver was still in the screw hanging on the wall!!! Great marketing. Philips only got so popular because Henry Ford was fed up with the flat drive screws costing him so much time on his assembly line. He approached Robertson, as those screws were being used on his Canadian-built Fords, but he wanted to license them. Robertson, having been burned by a previous licensing agreement, chose not to license to Ford. Ford went to Philips instead. So, that is a feature, not a disadvantage. Avoid this by tilting your driver left-right and front-back, it should come out 95% of the time. Do not pull straight out.
About twenty years ago, my friends and I had a rolling ice cooler shaped like R2-D2 that we got from a gas station. The domed top was transparent and had a hole you reached in to get whatever drink was inside that was on sale. After we got him, we wrote R2-DWI on the side, loaded him with as much ice and alcohol we could and took him to parties and a local sci-fi con all the time . He was a bit of a celebrity in the local geekdom/nerddom because everyone saw him at the con a bunch.
Small tip. I work with expanded PVC sheet a lot. Instead of using silicone, just use thick PVC cement. It is far better, and unlike silicone, you'll never have a seam fail.
Drill holes for the springs in the edge of both pieces, insert them in and they will stay put and return to straight and be hidden! Thanks for itching the Gonk scratch!
Metal banding (from pallets) makes excellent springs. I use them for holding parallels in mill vises, but it would've worked wonderfully for your trap door. Definitely worth keeping some around!
Re-watching some of the older videos and I am surprised it's been a year already since we saw the last of this little guy. Hope he is doing well. Can't wait to see him again.
If it took three more years for the next installment, I'd happily wait for it. This is still a super fun project, and I'm happy that you're inspired to pick it up again. And by the way, I smile every time I look at my raygun panel (B of course). Thanks for sharing! GONK GONK!
Before you had even attached the aluminum plates I was thinking, "It's going to look like its wearing slippers" LOL. You should lean into that and make some straps to go up and between his "toes". Thanks for finally taking him off the back burner.
12:56 It's a trap (door)! Another vote for the Wera Rapidaptor for stopping the bits from coming out, it's all I use and I like their ratchet handle with the same bit holder integrated, too.
Robinson (square drive) screws rule! The ability of the bit to stick to the screw like that is a feature! The square recess is tapered so the bit locks against it, and if you press hard, will join. You don't need to apply so much downward pressure! You are used to Philips bits which will cam out if you don't apply pressure. Let the _screw_ do the work of pulling itself into the wood when it's rotated. Also, you can get slightly undersize bits instead of the standard red size, which can be a better fit for coated screws.
If you want to say goodbye to stuck bits, check out the bit holder by Wera Tools. The bit self-locks and can be one-handedly swapped. I love this thing!
Orient the spring diagonally across the joint, then give it a slight twist before screwing the ends in, to maintain slight closing pressure on the door. Loving this build by the way!
I am SO happy with your presentation style/humor! 1. I suggest Andrew Klein’s DISAPPEARING SCREWS on top of GONK for emergency access! 2. Please install a REAL pleated filter to that ‘vacuum unit’ you have hooked up to your table saw, my want is for you to breathe better air. 3. I suggest hanging recycle-door from top May have it close easier. 3. b. Have 2 doors & a wall on bottom: one side for cans, the other for glass…
I got rid of all my magnetic-only bit holders for that exact reason a long time ago. I only have one remaining, that's about a foot long, for those very tight access situations. All other bit holders are mechanically locking, and I'm never looking back.
I too hate when the bit sticks in the screw. I invested in an overpriced Wera bitholder, it holds the bit but you can still change bits with one hand. When i switched to a Festool drill with Centrotec I couldn't use it anymore wich made me annoyed again. Until Festool released the same Wera bitholder with Centrotec. Now it's overly overpriced but atleast I'm not annoyed by sticking bits anymore.
The door flap springs were a really good improvisation. I think if you put a little metal strip between the two loose ends it would hold up for a long time. Also, as we know from the year 2000 classic, the Star Wars Gangsta Rap, R2D2 mixes up a mighty fine gin and tonic, so it's no surprise a Gonk droid is full of booze
We got Death Star... Death Star... We got Death Star... Death Star... I forgot about Star Wars Gangsta Rap.... Holy crap, my highschool/early 20's.... God Damn I feel old... (only 39)... Knock em out the box Luke, Knock em out...
The wera locking bit driver solved that infuriating issue for me. PS what Arduino code did you use for the flickering lights with that vintage vending machine build?
Not slippers, Wes, those feet attachments look more like skis. You may not be aware of it but I think you're building Wile E. Coyote's 'down-hill snow making machine'. either way, its still a brilliant build. But remember HIS, 'days without a dumb' counter!!!
I've started gluing bits into the magnetic holders so they don't pop out. I get the bit hot, smear it on a hot glue stick, and then jam it into the holder. Just squirting hot glue from a gun into the holder didn't work for me because the glue was way to viscous. I'm still able to pull the bit out with pliers then. CA glue probably works too, but I haven't tried it yet.
I think I would've made it a kegorator with tap and drain right on the face with the blinky lights. ...and a second tap that you have to think to look for.
Only 3 years... =-) This is probably better than my average project completion timeline. "If a man says he'll fix it he will. There's no need to remind him every six months"
"Moof Milker" - Han Solo, Star Wars VII If you expand to the follow on series like Mandalorian, then there are a few other good Star Wars related digs - like "son of a mudscuffer" or "dank farrik". That should give you enough bantha fodder for a few more screwups 🙂
Whenever I put on blue gloves I always say, "Two by two, hands of blue". Then I laugh maniacally. Insult: “Why You Stuck Up, Half Witted, Scruffy Looking, Nerf Herder!”
HUZZAH! I figured it out. Cut a strip of wood approx 1x2 inches & as long as the flap is wide. Cut the strip lengthwise at an angle (20° should do). Sandwich the top loops of the springs between the two halves of the strips of wood you just cut and screw them in place where the springs were originally attached. I'd send you the diagram but can't attach it here. ❤
1) Insult - Scruffy Looking 2) Definitely don't mix Battlestar with Star Wars because you just get final season God comments 3) Droid torture foot routering almost had me spit take my vodka 4) Of course that's the best selling design, it's the one that I have too.
D roid U tilitas I ntoxicat (Silent Running) OK, different droids but always loved the name and also D roiding U nder the I nfuence since it's beer related
Gotta get all the angles correct so the top is level and the lid closes flush. Plus, a proper fit ensures stability. Remember that those sides are cut almost completely down the middle. The aluminum bits aren't structural. So, that top rim was not entirely stable. It needed proper framing.
The sound effect when the cnc went into the feet.... Brilliant sir, Brilliant
I love this project! And the sound clip when you lower the CNC into the bottom of the feet made me laugh out loud!
Part 3 please..........
love the GONK build
The Professor Farnsworth quote was spot on! Thank you for that.
The "square drive" screws you mentioned are excellent!! They were invented in Canada officially as the Robertson. The proper Robertson has tapered sides so that it grips the screw as you showed. Canadians put up with that since we get much better torque transfer and camming out compared to the Philips, the Philips being designed to cam out to limit the torque transfer.
Square drive screws are not real Robertsons because they are not tapered. In fact, the driver buys are made using a radius cut from a grinding wheel, which does not taper in the same fashion, causing the screws to fall off the driver. P.L. Robertson himself used to sell his product by putting a screw into his customer's wall, leaving the driver in the screw, take his client to lunch and when they got back, the screwdriver was still in the screw hanging on the wall!!! Great marketing.
Philips only got so popular because Henry Ford was fed up with the flat drive screws costing him so much time on his assembly line. He approached Robertson, as those screws were being used on his Canadian-built Fords, but he wanted to license them. Robertson, having been burned by a previous licensing agreement, chose not to license to Ford. Ford went to Philips instead.
So, that is a feature, not a disadvantage. Avoid this by tilting your driver left-right and front-back, it should come out 95% of the time. Do not pull straight out.
About twenty years ago, my friends and I had a rolling ice cooler shaped like R2-D2 that we got from a gas station. The domed top was transparent and had a hole you reached in to get whatever drink was inside that was on sale. After we got him, we wrote R2-DWI on the side, loaded him with as much ice and alcohol we could and took him to parties and a local sci-fi con all the time . He was a bit of a celebrity in the local geekdom/nerddom because everyone saw him at the con a bunch.
I recall seeing those in gas station stores back in the day.
Robertson screws (square) belong in every universe… cuz they’re the best!!!
Mouse traps are built around torsion springs. That makes them easy to find.
So are clothespins
Bingo!
What you have now works. If you need more pressure, just bend the hooks more toward the wood. Way easy-peasy.
"Good news everyone!" - Loved the Farnsworth reference 🤩
OK, so, THIS was the droid we were looking for. Moving along.
Small tip. I work with expanded PVC sheet a lot. Instead of using silicone, just use thick PVC cement. It is far better, and unlike silicone, you'll never have a seam fail.
Looks fun! If the cooler liner will be fixed in place and not removable, don't forget a drain for the melted ice...
I bought the spigot 3 years ago and meant to include it in this video, but ran out of time. Womp.
@@WesleyTreat I'm sure you'll find the most appropriate and mature place to put the drain.
A “Dronk” droid
I think a magnet on the round door should help ensure it doesn’t flop open.
Drill holes for the springs in the edge of both pieces, insert them in and they will stay put and return to straight and be hidden! Thanks for itching the Gonk scratch!
Metal banding (from pallets) makes excellent springs. I use them for holding parallels in mill vises, but it would've worked wonderfully for your trap door. Definitely worth keeping some around!
Re-watching some of the older videos and I am surprised it's been a year already since we saw the last of this little guy. Hope he is doing well. Can't wait to see him again.
So happy to see you finishing up this project! Great work!
Thanks! TotalBoat is going to be holding this whole thing together, I think.
PLEASE finish this. I can't wait to see how it comes out! So cool.
If it took three more years for the next installment, I'd happily wait for it. This is still a super fun project, and I'm happy that you're inspired to pick it up again. And by the way, I smile every time I look at my raygun panel (B of course). Thanks for sharing! GONK GONK!
Thanks!
Before you had even attached the aluminum plates I was thinking, "It's going to look like its wearing slippers" LOL. You should lean into that and make some straps to go up and between his "toes". Thanks for finally taking him off the back burner.
12:56 It's a trap (door)! Another vote for the Wera Rapidaptor for stopping the bits from coming out, it's all I use and I like their ratchet handle with the same bit holder integrated, too.
Robinson (square drive) screws rule!
The ability of the bit to stick to the screw like that is a feature! The square recess is tapered so the bit locks against it, and if you press hard, will join. You don't need to apply so much downward pressure! You are used to Philips bits which will cam out if you don't apply pressure. Let the _screw_ do the work of pulling itself into the wood when it's rotated.
Also, you can get slightly undersize bits instead of the standard red size, which can be a better fit for coated screws.
If you want to say goodbye to stuck bits, check out the bit holder by Wera Tools. The bit self-locks and can be one-handedly swapped. I love this thing!
Also, I'd rather have the bit stuck in the screw then have the screw constantly fall off. Robertson for the win.
The quote you mentioned...
"Why, you stuck-up, half-witted, scruffy-looking nerf herder!"
"Who's scruffy-looking?"
―Princess Leia Organa and Han Solo
Orient the spring diagonally across the joint, then give it a slight twist before screwing the ends in, to maintain slight closing pressure on the door. Loving this build by the way!
Hope to see you BOTH at MakerCamp!! Great video Wesley! Like the on-the-fly improvisation! 👍
DUI - Droid Unit of Inebriation. And a good warning to us all.
The gonk torture sound is a nice touch.
I am SO happy with your presentation style/humor!
1. I suggest Andrew Klein’s DISAPPEARING SCREWS on top of GONK for emergency access!
2. Please install a REAL pleated filter to that ‘vacuum unit’ you have hooked up to your table saw, my want is for you to breathe better air.
3. I suggest hanging recycle-door from top May have it close easier.
3. b. Have 2 doors & a wall on bottom: one side for cans, the other for glass…
I bought a better bag for the dust collector, but no one makes the right size for this unit anymore, so I have to modify it.
Love Gonk.
The screaming Gonk while you cnc'd the feed, killed me!
So glad to see the Gonk is back!
Awesome progress! See you in three years!
Gonk at Makercamp! Yes please!
Put the hinge on the top, for the bottom flap. Let gravity do the work
Impressive. Most impressive.
happy to see the Gonk again ☺️ i was wondering when it would reappear
All I can think of is Gonktoberfest...
I've been waiting for part two for a while! glad it's getting resurrected.
I got rid of all my magnetic-only bit holders for that exact reason a long time ago. I only have one remaining, that's about a foot long, for those very tight access situations. All other bit holders are mechanically locking, and I'm never looking back.
I too hate when the bit sticks in the screw. I invested in an overpriced Wera bitholder, it holds the bit but you can still change bits with one hand. When i switched to a Festool drill with Centrotec I couldn't use it anymore wich made me annoyed again. Until Festool released the same Wera bitholder with Centrotec. Now it's overly overpriced but atleast I'm not annoyed by sticking bits anymore.
Looking forward to seeing him at MC!!
GOoooooonk! That's FanDamnTastic man. Love it
Only recently found your channel and was wondering when there would be a Part 2: Return of the Gonk and here it is. W00t.
Excellent as always!. OK, so, THIS was the droid we were looking for. Moving along..
Frak reference noted👍
How will you drain the ice water from the cooler?
That's a very personal question to ask a gonk.
Huh. I was convinced this project had been forgotten.
Just realized I need a lift like that in my workshop
The door flap springs were a really good improvisation. I think if you put a little metal strip between the two loose ends it would hold up for a long time. Also, as we know from the year 2000 classic, the Star Wars Gangsta Rap, R2D2 mixes up a mighty fine gin and tonic, so it's no surprise a Gonk droid is full of booze
We got Death Star... Death Star... We got Death Star... Death Star...
I forgot about Star Wars Gangsta Rap.... Holy crap, my highschool/early 20's.... God Damn I feel old... (only 39)...
Knock em out the box Luke, Knock em out...
a great name would be 8EE2-7A9 which in a mixed Leetspeak spells 'beer tap', or 7A9 for short.
Glad to see the heat deflector at work in the shop. Was it a hot one this summer?
Dammat... now I'm singing the glove song. And so are my techs... yaaaaay! :D
Great video. Glad to see it's back. So hate those screw driver tips. Mahalo for sharing! 🙂🙏❤️
The wera locking bit driver solved that infuriating issue for me. PS what Arduino code did you use for the flickering lights with that vintage vending machine build?
It was something I threw together. Couldn't tell you now how I did it. I always have to relearn when I start coding something new.
The video we have all been waiting for!
lOVING IT!! I guess you will be having ice in the b ottle bin part? How about a drain tank in the base? just a thought...keep up the great vids Cheers
Not slippers, Wes, those feet attachments look more like skis. You may not be aware of it but I think you're building Wile E. Coyote's 'down-hill snow making machine'. either way, its still a brilliant build. But remember HIS, 'days without a dumb' counter!!!
Beer and droids! Well done! However, the glue is pronounced Boatal Tote ...
Jar Jar Tinks.
Intoxicant Containment and Collection Droid (IC-ColD)
I always enjoy your videos.
Any news on part III? 🤞
I looooove it. 😊
I've started gluing bits into the magnetic holders so they don't pop out. I get the bit hot, smear it on a hot glue stick, and then jam it into the holder. Just squirting hot glue from a gun into the holder didn't work for me because the glue was way to viscous. I'm still able to pull the bit out with pliers then. CA glue probably works too, but I haven't tried it yet.
ROBERTSON! (17:30)
Not Robertson! (14:56)
See you in three years, Laser Brain.
16:50 i understood that reference
Bantha poodoo, ohhoho
Edit: I resigned myself to just buying full length bits, because those magnetic bit holders drive my BP up
It’s just, well, Star Wars. We all know that equals cool. The Wesley Factor propels that into a Galaxy, Far, Far Away…….
Excellent as always!
I think I would've made it a kegorator with tap and drain right on the face with the blinky lights.
...and a second tap that you have to think to look for.
The sound when the feet were being milled gave me a giggle.
About daggum time!!!lol 😅😂
Only 3 years... =-) This is probably better than my average project completion timeline. "If a man says he'll fix it he will. There's no need to remind him every six months"
Did you ever finish him?
Yey! At last. Nice one
Gonk ready for October and Maker Camp? Which one? This year? 2024? 2049?
Dronk! Dronk!
"Moof Milker" - Han Solo, Star Wars VII
If you expand to the follow on series like Mandalorian, then there are a few other good Star Wars related digs - like "son of a mudscuffer" or "dank farrik".
That should give you enough bantha fodder for a few more screwups 🙂
Gonk gonk gonk gonk gonk
Whenever I put on blue gloves I always say, "Two by two, hands of blue". Then I laugh maniacally. Insult: “Why You Stuck Up, Half Witted, Scruffy Looking, Nerf Herder!”
ruclips.net/video/UYzVqe5tnVg/видео.html
If I am remembering my Star Wars canon correctly, that series Gonk Droid is a Drink Unit Intoxicator, series 502.
HUZZAH! I figured it out. Cut a strip of wood approx 1x2 inches & as long as the flap is wide. Cut the strip lengthwise at an angle (20° should do). Sandwich the top loops of the springs between the two halves of the strips of wood you just cut and screw them in place where the springs were originally attached. I'd send you the diagram but can't attach it here. ❤
Must have Emergency Beer Access!!
Beer Cooler Droid should have ABV in its name!!!😂
From the inventor of the Walky-Talky, we're proud to announce our newest product: The Quicko Thixo Fixo!
7:10 - OhhhhhhhhhhhHHHHHHHHHhhhh. 🤣
Needs a switch activated audio card to say 'gomp' when someone puts an empty container into the disposal chute.
1) Insult - Scruffy Looking
2) Definitely don't mix Battlestar with Star Wars because you just get final season God comments
3) Droid torture foot routering almost had me spit take my vodka
4) Of course that's the best selling design, it's the one that I have too.
The worst is a ball drive hex key bit getting stuck. You wiggle it every which way and the damn thing won't come out!
A rat trap spring would work for the door
GONK!
BRU-4U!
D roid
U tilitas
I ntoxicat
(Silent Running) OK, different droids but always loved the name and also
D roiding U nder the I nfuence since it's beer related
Robertson screws were most definitely the correct choice because they were invented by a Canadian. LOL
Someday, you’ll build a power loader from Aliens. And then the lift will really look at the part.
I think the real question here is 'How do you get the top half off to empty the bottom half if the top is full of beer and ice?'.
Doesn't seem like much of those upper parts need to be that precise. Why not just get a semi good fit and then Thixo it in place and bridge any gaps?
Gotta get all the angles correct so the top is level and the lid closes flush. Plus, a proper fit ensures stability. Remember that those sides are cut almost completely down the middle. The aluminum bits aren't structural. So, that top rim was not entirely stable. It needed proper framing.
part 3?