Sal your one of two people I follow for tile work who actually know what your doing tile coach is the other. Thank you for all you hard work on these videos
Your videos have caused my dad & I both to start planning our first bathroom tile projects. Both with their own challenges. He's a good bit more educated than myself as of now but with the amount of information you have avalable, there is no question that we will both succeed. Thanks!
A contractor I know actually uses a paint roller to lay Ditra down. Saves your back, knees and time. Wets it with a spray bottle and then pours the thinset on the floor and rolls it out, then tapers the seams using the Ditra trowel
Tell that contractor that he is risking the failure of every floor he ever installed that way. Thinset mortar has a maximum water ratio that can be used before the mortar is rendered useless and will not have a strong bond. The size of the notched trowel is important to insure proper coverage and bond coat thickness. He will probably tell you he has never had a problem, don't believe it.
Excellent video. I'm getting ready to put down 120 sq. ft. of porcelain floor tile over a plywood sub-floor in my kitchen. Thanks for all the good advice.
Im glad sal is showing the world how to tile. Alot of customers shit on contractors for not going fast or because its too expensive. Materials matter. Time matters. Tools matter. Tile guys need to plan ahead. Measure. Check the condition of the floor. Do repairs. Shucks , even do some framing and electrical work for a tile guy to get it done right the first time. You dont know what i have seen in showers and floors. We deal with rotten wood. Bad construction. Mold. Old plumbing and most of the time a cheap job because the customer does not want to pay. Heres my message for customers. FOR TILE. Warranty pays in the long run. If you want your tile for a short time... Theres cheap alternatives but it STILL COST MONEY. Overall for tile to stay impeccable for 20+ years...its not done on only tile and thinset. Theres more than just a tile guy. Theres framing. Pest control(termite. Wood ant. Etc). Plumbing. Sanitation. Moisture control/waterproofing. And the list goes on. Next time you want to save a buck for tile. remember: you might end up paying more.
As always great content. Do not know what I enjoy most: the art of great prep work - or how skilled you are at using those knee pads. Lol. Mr DiBlasi I hope you never miss place them -breaking in a new pair must be a skill in itself. Your videos are a treasure for educating and promoting pride in a job well done. 👍
Great job and video. I am planning to install porcelain tiles on my bathroom floor. I took out the old tiles including the 5/8" plywood underlayment. The subfloor is made up of 1x8 floor boards so they are 3/4" thick. I plan to use Ditra as the joists are 16" OC. The floor boards have gaps from 1/4" to as much as a 1/2". A few spots are even larger than that. I was planning on installing 5/8" plywood sheeting (4-ply). Is this the right plywood type and thickness to go under the Ditra? Thanks.
This man is an amazing excellent professional. Think what you want but it is a fact i have witnessed many times that hardworkers with high work ethics on difficult work like this are never, ever originated from the dark continent where live gorillas and hyenas (yeah cannot even name them as we live under a tyrannical clique that denies reality).
Can install travertine on a manufactured home? Subfloor+ ditra+ travertine? Travertine Is to heavy for a manufactured home or modular home? Ditra is ok on subfloor? Or have to install one more layer of plywood? If need layer of plywood...? Do i need ditra after that?
Natural stone requires a much stronger floor than ceramic or porcelain tile. The subfloor must meet L/720 deflection and a second layer of plywood is required, then the uncoupling membrane.
@@SalDiBlasi 😅 sounds crazy but we need sone help again. 😅 my friend have a one layer of plywood! They have already the ditra. After installing the second layer of plywood DO WE NEED THE DITRA OR JUST CAN INSTALL OVER THE PLYWOOD? Also they have problems with the moister from the bottom crawlspace ... Do you think they can sandwich the underlayment 6mil plastic moister barrier? Subfloor + 6 mil plastic + plywood + travertine or ditra + travertine. First option is to do the 6mil under the crawlspace but just looking a cheating option.. 😅 If we install the second layer of plywood what direction we need to lay the plywood? Same as the first layer?
I think the purpose of the uncoupling membrane is to allow the floor the plywood to expand and contract the tile won't do that as much. Cell has another video about a guy named Steve with a million dollar house who had tile laid and it was a poor job I believe in their sal explains about expansion and contraction.
Hello, I have a question: I have a finished timber wood floor that’s half an inch thick. The floor is in good condition. Can I install Ditra on top, I would like to put porcelain tiles on top. I also found that under the wood floor there is no plywood, instead the subfloor is made of 3/4in by 6in wooden planks. If I need to remove the finished floor what thickness plywood should I use? The porcelain tiles i will install are 2 by 4 feet and thickness is 3/8 of an in. Which ditra thickness should I use? I really appreciate your videos and sorry for bothering with all these questions, I hope you can answer.
Not sure what you mean by Finished timber wood floor, but probably has to be removed. The subfloor wood planks are not a problem, install 1/2" Plywood according to subfloor installation methods for tile page 17 www.contractorsdirect.com/PDF/ditra-installation-handbook.pdf nd use method D-SP-TS-18 on page 7. Be sure that your floor meets deflection requirements for ceramic tile.
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, Thank you so for much for the response. I have one final question: can I use the modified thin-set Exceeds ANSI 118 Versabond LFT underneath and on top of Ditra in order to install my porcelain 2 by 4 feet. I really appreciate your help.
@@maysamoreno4874 I have never been a fan of Custom Products, but according to them you can use it for uncoupling membranes. www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-119.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, I have another question to ask you. After some thought, I wanted to ask you if the mortar layout I created will work for my ditra. I took your advice and installed 1/2 inch plywood. I am going to use the Large Format Floor and Wall Tile Mortar from Mapei under my ditra and over my ditra. Then I will install my 2x4 feet porcelain tiles. I wanted to ask you if this is the correct mortar to use under and over my ditra. If it is, how long do I have to wait until I can apply the grouting? If this is not a product you recommend, I was going to go with UltraFlex from Mapei to go under the Ditra, and Kerabond T or the uncoupling membrane mortar from Mapei to go OVER the ditra. Please I beg you help me with this. I hope you can help me from your experience. Thank you so much Sal!
Sal i leveled my plywood substrate with self leveling concrete and I now I am ready for Ditra what product do you recommend for the thin set? I will be installing penny tile. Thank you.
Thanks for another great video Sal! One question, when the Ditra is all laid down, should you wait a day to lay porcelain tile or can you just start right in on tiling? Trying to do this the right way and in no hurry. I'm using the Schluter All-set thinset for both the Ditra and tile on top of a plywood subfloor that's been cleaned up.
Hey Sal, do you have any videos on how to install exterior terra-cotta tile on a stair landing? I tried looking myself, but I didn’t come across any that I viewed.
Would you recommend doing the longest part of the room which would be the length of the smallest part which would be the width in my case. Do it matter what the over lap is from the edge of the plywood?
You need to contact your schluter rep to get an ok on a case to case basis. Most times they will give you specific instructions on how to proceed if they approve it.
You must use modified thinset on the plywood, and you can use it on the concrete. You can't however use unmodified to install the dita on plywpod. Then use unmodified to set the tile on the ditra.
Hello Sal. You're videos are extremely helpful. I'm preparing to install Schluter Ditra on OSB but I do not know what is meant by "tightly butted seams must be addressed". Would you please explain.
It is common practice for the carpenters to butt the seams of the OSB tight together, to slam them in tight so there is no gap. They are supposed to engage the tongue and groove without snugging them up. Advantech actually has it written on the edge of the sheets, to leave an 1/8" gap.
My old tile in hallway and powder room was laid over 1/2 inch ply underlay over 5/8 ply subfloor, (2x8 joists 12' long, 16 O.C.) it was ok for 20 years, no cracks or bounce. In one area which will be done with hardwood I removed the tile & underlay and now notice the floor is weaker. So the underlay definitely made a difference. I'm debating on whether or not I even need the ditra, and if I use it, should I beef up the subfloor before using it. I am debating removing the underlay to replace it with something else vs just removing the mortar and re-tiling on the underlay that is existing. Either way its pretty labor intensive. also, if I need to re-tile in another twenty years, what is done about the ditra that is installed and stuck to the subfloor or underlay. Thanks for your videos.
Your floor structure does not meet L/360, so the tile should have never been installed on that floor in the first place. So you might say that the floor lasted 20 years, no problem. If the floor does not meet deflection requirements, that does not mean it will fail for sure, however id does increase the risk significantly the weaker the floor. ruclips.net/video/74BDTI67S1M/видео.html Not following minimum standards, TCNA and manufacturers recommendations does not guarantee failure, but following them does ensure success.
@@SalDiBlasi Apparently I was wrong about these, they are 12 O.C. and 10 foot span, I think that would make a significant difference. Either way, I don't want to do it twice so ill be beefing up the floor with something and then the ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi I meant when doing the shower curb, I’ve seen where they put a kerdi band between the shower curb bottom and the ditra on the bathroom floor. Is this step necessary or can I install ditra later after the shower is done and tiled?
@@ceeIoc You can if you want, but it is a good idea to do that although not required. You could just leave the tile under the crb until after you tile the floor, that is what I do.
Hi Sal, Recently came across your videos and very informative and detailed. We will be installing tile on a second floor that's about 1200 sqft. Is Ditra suppose to be more durable and long lasting than backerboard? Can this be installed all throughout the home including kitchen and restrooms? Does Ditra also help with soundproofing the floors? Thank you!
Let me just say that Ditra is much better than Backer board, if you want sound control, then use Ditra TB now called Duo, however works only on a concrete floor, wood subfloors will not see any real benefit.
I have air pockets under the Ditra on wooden floor, I have leveled the subfloor but not perfect. Now I might have to cut the batch of sections out, that is suck!
@@torkdork69 Exactly! How the heck did that happen? While mixing the thinset? Too dry a thinset when applying Ditra? Not moisten plywood before thinset? Not troweled correctly? Did not put enough pressure on Ditra with wooden trowel? Did I forget anything? I would like to know the same as I am installing soon.
@@61spindrift most likely the latter of the questions and a mix of the floor having a dip in it. Proper trowel and mix with good added pressure to collapse 90% of ridged should suffice for decades.
Improper troweling. With thinset or mortar for tile you want the grooves to all be going the same direction, no swirling. That way as you bed in the air has a place to go and not be trapped.
@@61spindrift at 11:10 you can see the swirling in the thin set, that is ok for glue, but not bedding tile. You can kind of get away with it with small format tile, but never with large. Straight lines in tile.
Thank you very much for this video! We are trying to install Ditra in our bathroom and i would greatly appreciate your advice on plywood underlayment. We have 3/4 plywood over 16 oc trusses and 1/4 underlayment on top of it. Can we install ditra on top of this underlayment (it is hardwood plywood)? Thank you!
Minimum thickness of plywood in any tile assembly is 3/8, the 1/4" has no structural value and will buckle when you apply the thinset and starts to dry and cure.
if I have a hall that's 3x12 and I have 2 pieces of schluter that are 3x6,can I have a seem on the 3 ft end ? Does it matter if you have a seam at the end (or beginning) of roll(3ft end)if so,do I need to butt it up tight or leave 1/4 gap
I can, where I shop for all my tile needs www.galleriastone.com/Showrooms/Smethurst-Tile/ The Malden store is where I usually go, tell them I sent you.
So what happens should they get water damage and need to remove the existing tile? Will this membrane come up willingly or will you destroy the sub-floor in the process of removing it?
Are you expecting water damage? If so the system can easily be made watertight to eliminate that problem. Tile is a permanent finish, if you worry about removal, then use something else. You don't compromise the installation to make it easier to remove. Plenty of tools and methods to deal with rip outs when it is time.
@@SalDiBlasi oh, ok, thanks. i thought it had to do with the ability of the mortar to dry. but it must be whether any movement of the base is possible.
Depends on the type of ditra, " For DITRA use a 1/4" x 3/16" (6 mm x 5 mm) V-notched trowel, 5/16" x 5/16" (8 mm x 8 mm) V-notched trowel, or the DITRA trowel which features a 11/64" x 11/64" (4.5 mm x 4.5 mm) square-notched design. For DITRA-XL use a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm) square-notched trowel or the DITRA-XL trowel, which features a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm) square-notched design." Page 18 of the ditra handbook sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h66/h6e/8917114126366/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
I trust Sal on anything he says however, I am not sure he understood what you were doing. I believe hardy backer is a great substrate for Ditra. And I am thinking that unmodified would be the product. Just guessing, anyone know for sure reading this?
sparkyth67 There is a method to install Ditra on a linoleum floor, which is to use a quick set modified thinset to install the ditra, but there are a lot of restrictions, limitations and things that have to be checked before you do it. My advise to you is to remove the vinyl and go back to the substrate. The chances of it failing are too great in my opinion. If the vinyl is a tile, I would not even consider it at all.
***** thanks for the quick response I am going to put down plywood over the subloor anyway in order to raise it up some as well as cover up the osb I don't care what anyone says osb is not as good as plywood maybe I could go over the vinyl floor with that then put down the ditra
Minimum thickness of plywood is 3/8" , make sure that the vinyl is only one layer, that it is not a cushion backed vinyl, that it is well adhered to the substrate, that it is not just a perimeter glue down, but best practice is to remove it.
***** yes I have 3/4 inch osb with glued down vinyl tiles I was going to plan on 3/8 inch Plywood but was thinking about putting down some floor leveling compound first before I installed the plywood
sparkyth67 I would first install the plywood, then do the leveling and then ditra as the last layer, you don't want to nail through the leveling compound and break it up.
Hi Sal, great vids , I really learn a lot. I am gutting the kitchen, installing 3/4 in plywood to sub floor, should I install one layer of plywood or two, as long as I don’t over extend height to include tile?
You need to determine the floor deflection, Needs to be L/360 or better for porcelain tile, and no need for the second layer of plywood. On the other hand, for natural stone, you need L/720 and also the second layer of plywood.
I love your videos. I've just completely gutted my 13x12 master bathroom. I've ripped up the 1/2" plywood underlayment down to the 5/8" plywood sub floor. I was planning on adding new 1/2" plywood underlayment back down once all the plumbing was moved. Should I just go over the subfloor with the Ditra Heat or add the underlayment? Ty
In most cases you can go over the sub floor if it is all tongue and grove or blocked, if you are not installing a natural stone tile and if it meets L/360.
Hello Sal. I've installed some ditra over concrete and after the fact noticed a low spot. Can I put some sort of leveling compound on top of the ditra before placing tile down? Thanks
Rob Ryan If you fill the waffles and let it dry you can use modified if you like, but if you do not let it dry and tile as you go it must be unmodified. You can also fill with unmodified, do not use modified to set the tile. So to avoid buying two kinds of thinset just stick to the unmodified.
Main benefit to doing that would be the ability to pop chalk lines for the layout. Trying to mark/pop lines on Ditra is next to impossible be it's basically plastic..
@@joefowler3106 If you aren't taping and making it perfectly waterproof (I am only doing that by the tub), you can just nail/screw down a ledger board to start your tile out properly down a line in the middle of the room. Remove it when that row is done and just tile off of that. Or use a laser with marks on the wall/floor somewhere perhaps?
Sal - I just pulled up old tile in my bathroom that was laid over a cement board underlayment over OSB. I use a rotary hammer and chisel to pull it all up but there is still a thin smooth layer of thin set over the OSB in most places. I found that chiseling down to the OSB was tearing up the board. Can I lay Ditra over old thin set? Thanks for your videos.
You have few options, most common are to grind it down with a cup grinder, which is pretty quick, or if it is really stuck and you are sure it will not be a bond inhibitor, clean it up and go over it with new mortar as you set your ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi So what did you do and is it holding up a year later? I would have thought you could just go over with thinset but definitely use a boding agent or primer first.
Sal, thx for answering all my questions sir, here's one more for you. I want to put mosaic tiles on my stair risers. I wanted to use cement board, but the bottom riser is rounded on one side. Can I use ditra on the risers instead of the cement board?
+fencerider Ditra is really for floors, but i have used it to build out the wall for a mosaic boarder. This would be a better way to go www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Building-Panels/KERDI-BOARD-Panels/Schluter%C2%AE-KERDI-BOARD-V/p/KERDI_BOARD-V but you probably don't want to buy a whole sheet for that small area.
Dear Sal, wonderful video, very informative! I do not see you however, describing the requirements for the sub-floor, this would be a great addition to this educational video. I am planning to install ditra in our bathroom and am searching for answers about sub-floor specifics. Would greatly appreciate your advice. I am going to install 3/8 plywood underlayment (to match old floor height) on top of the existing 3/4 sub-floor (per ditra instructions) and the only 3/8 i see in stores around me is pine plywood or yellow pine plywood. I am not sure, is this type of softwood appropriate for the ditra underlayment? Could you please share your experiences? Thank you.
@@SalDiBlasi Thank you, Sal, appreciate your reply. I watched the video and read the installation instruction from Ditra but cannot find the answer to my question on whether pine plywood is a good underlayment for ditra. I even called Schluter but the lady on the phone could not give a definite answer because it was not specified in their instructions. Would appreciate you advice based on your many years of experience in this field. Thank you.
Sal, I am currently tiling a small restroom which the floor is concrete slab. Any benefit of using Schluter Ditra installed over concrete slab? Thanks!
Hi Sal I used Ditra in a large kitchen. The tiler got us to lay it and fill the dovetails the day before he arrived. He then tiled onto our dry adhesive with a notched trowel bed. A year on one or two of the tiles are sounding hollow which I assume this means the bond has gone. I have checked Schluter's video and they don't show it being fillled before tiling. What do you think? I won't be calling him up to argue but I need to get it right next time.
+Skill Builder Filling the day before is not a problem, however having you install the ditra for him may not have been a good move. Although it is straight forward, it needs to be done properly and installed with the correct type of thinset and trowel.
+Sal DiBlasi Thanks for the reply. He was tied up on another job so we had to move it along. I am fairly sure we did it right because he showed us exactly what to do and we pushed it down with a wood float The bond appears to be lost between the tile and the Ditra. No matter it is just slightly annoying. Good to see you doing it right and we will take care on the next job to use the polymer modified.
Hi Sal ! Can you help me to find the right mortar please, I live in Canada and I dont know witch one to choose. We have Home Depot, Rona (it's like Lowes). My job is: I do have one layer of 5/8 plywood glue and screw, I will install 24'' X 48'' large format tile. I will use Ditra (not heating). So I'm looking for a brench of mortar for underneet the Ditra and over the Ditra after. Good video !
Not sure if the standards for mortar are the same in Canada, to install the ditra to the plywood look for a mortar that meets or exceeds ANSI A118.11 This would include thinsets like Mapei Ultraflex 2, Laticrete 235 gold, ardex x5, or Schluter AllSet. To install the tile on the ditra, Schluter AllSet, (yes modified mortar) Schluter says to use an unmodified mortar if you do not use their brand of mortar, The standard is A118.1 This would include Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane Mortar, However that is not to say a modified mortar will not work, but it will not preserve the warranty if you decide to use a modified mortar to set your tile on ditra. There have been some developments with thinset in the past few years that has made solved the problem of using modified mortar on ditra, but you have to know which modified mortar can be used.
There is a store who sale Mapei Keraflex plus, the men told me I can use that for plywood and Ditra, and even on top of the Ditra with large tile 2' X 4'. What do you think about it ? Is it good ? Its 29.99$ a bag. Thanks again Sal.
Sal Diblasi: Hi Sal, I need your comment ont that: There is my floor layout: Joist 16'-8'' and 17' at 16'' center with 5/8 plywood tong and groove glue and screew. For the deflexion of the joist the place I bought the joist said L648, L699,L745. I need to tell you than I will have an island of 73'' X 84'' with granit counter top on top of my 24'' X 48'' tile. Do you think my joist are enought strong for not cracking my tile ? Deflexion is ok for the lenght of the joist? Would you add a second layer of plywood on top of my 5/8, maybee 1/2 or an other 5/8 plywood? Thanks for helping me, by the way you are a good teacher !
@@stevebeaulieu2617 For the deflection plug your numbers in here www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl you did not specify the unsupported span. As far as the thinset goes it is Exceeds ANSI A118.4HTE and A118.11 requirements and is suitable for plywood, Can you install your tile on Ditra with it, sure, but you will void the schluter warranty, to maintain the warranty you can use Schluter AllSet if you want modified mortar, or any brand of unmodified mortar.
No you can not put it down on floor board, and that goes for cement board as well, if you were thinking of doing that. Plywood must be installed first.
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May God continue to bless this man's knees.....love u Sal!
Knees are good, shoulders not so much.
this is one of the best how to videos I've seen on this topic. well done man and I appreciate the time you took to make this.
The best thing i learned is to take the straps off of you knee pads.
Who are all the losers with unlikes lol
Contractors who will be loosing jobs lol
Sal your one of two people I follow for tile work who actually know what your doing tile coach is the other. Thank you for all you hard work on these videos
I appreciate that!
Thanks for taking the time to make this. About to use Ditra for the first time and you explained it very well.
Your videos have caused my dad & I both to start planning our first bathroom tile projects. Both with their own challenges. He's a good bit more educated than myself as of now but with the amount of information you have avalable, there is no question that we will both succeed.
Thanks!
Thanks, glad it helped
Thanks, this is a great video. I'm going to tile my hallway and am researching quite a bit as a diy'er
A contractor I know actually uses a paint roller to lay Ditra down. Saves your back, knees and time. Wets it with a spray bottle and then pours the thinset on the floor and rolls it out, then tapers the seams using the Ditra trowel
Tell that contractor that he is risking the failure of every floor he ever installed that way. Thinset mortar has a maximum water ratio that can be used before the mortar is rendered useless and will not have a strong bond. The size of the notched trowel is important to insure proper coverage and bond coat thickness. He will probably tell you he has never had a problem, don't believe it.
Excellent video. I'm getting ready to put down 120 sq. ft. of porcelain floor tile over a plywood sub-floor in my kitchen. Thanks for all the good advice.
👍
Thank you Sal. I appreciate you taking the time to do this video.
My pleasure!
You are my DIY Hero when it comes to my bathroom remodel.
Craftsman and great attention to detail, nice video!
Pleasure to watch a pro at work
Im glad sal is showing the world how to tile. Alot of customers shit on contractors for not going fast or because its too expensive. Materials matter. Time matters. Tools matter. Tile guys need to plan ahead. Measure. Check the condition of the floor. Do repairs. Shucks , even do some framing and electrical work for a tile guy to get it done right the first time. You dont know what i have seen in showers and floors. We deal with rotten wood. Bad construction. Mold. Old plumbing and most of the time a cheap job because the customer does not want to pay.
Heres my message for customers. FOR TILE. Warranty pays in the long run. If you want your tile for a short time... Theres cheap alternatives but it STILL COST MONEY. Overall for tile to stay impeccable for 20+ years...its not done on only tile and thinset. Theres more than just a tile guy. Theres framing. Pest control(termite. Wood ant. Etc). Plumbing. Sanitation. Moisture control/waterproofing. And the list goes on. Next time you want to save a buck for tile. remember: you might end up paying more.
Me too! I did not realize that there was anything else besides hardy backer.. this video was fabulous! Thank you!!
Lots of options available, besides cement board.
I'm glad I found your video on Ditra. I really love the way you put the videos together.
Glad you enjoy it!
Hi Sal,
Just wanted to say thank you for posting super-helpful videos and sharing your considerable experience with us!
You are so welcome!
Excellent presentation Sal!
Glad you enjoyed it
As always great content. Do not know what I enjoy most: the art of great prep work - or how skilled you are at using those knee pads. Lol. Mr DiBlasi I hope you never miss place them -breaking in a new pair must be a skill in itself.
Your videos are a treasure for educating and promoting pride in a job well done. 👍
👍😊
Wow you made it look easy and I kinda did it a backwards way but your method looks much easier
Glad it helped
Sal DiBee, you are the Man !! Great vid. Thank you very much !
this guy is awesome
Thanks for the completeness. I mixed too thick and then laid down way too thick. I wish I'd watched this first.
Thanks, glad it helped
Thank you for you time and heart , to sharing knowledge , much much appreciated 🙏
My pleasure!
Thank you for this tutorial.
You are welcome!
What do u do when the floor is not completely flat?
On a tear out Sal do you have to replace the subfloor?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.. Great video..
Mixing the thinset wet is critical for this application.
Sal, what do you use on the plywood joints to fill any gaps before installing ditra?
Great job and video. I am planning to install porcelain tiles on my bathroom floor. I took out the old tiles including the 5/8" plywood underlayment. The subfloor is made up of 1x8 floor boards so they are 3/4" thick. I plan to use Ditra as the joists are 16" OC. The floor boards have gaps from 1/4" to as much as a 1/2". A few spots are even larger than that. I was planning on installing 5/8" plywood sheeting (4-ply). Is this the right plywood type and thickness to go under the Ditra? Thanks.
So to clarify flexible adhesive to lay the ditra and standard adhesive to lay tiles? Great video.
What van I use to level out the floor before installing the ditra?
Hi - Is it OK to backbutter the matting?
This man is an amazing excellent professional. Think what you want but it is a fact i have witnessed many times that hardworkers with high work ethics on difficult work like this are never, ever originated from the dark continent where live gorillas and hyenas (yeah cannot even name them as we live under a tyrannical clique that denies reality).
Can install travertine on a manufactured home?
Subfloor+ ditra+ travertine?
Travertine Is to heavy for a manufactured home or modular home?
Ditra is ok on subfloor? Or have to install one more layer of plywood?
If need layer of plywood...? Do i need ditra after that?
Natural stone requires a much stronger floor than ceramic or porcelain tile. The subfloor must meet L/720 deflection and a second layer of plywood is required, then the uncoupling membrane.
@@SalDiBlasi thanks for your help!
👍
@@SalDiBlasi
😅 sounds crazy but we need sone help again.
😅 my friend have a one layer of plywood! They have already the ditra.
After installing the second layer of plywood DO WE NEED THE DITRA OR JUST CAN INSTALL OVER THE PLYWOOD?
Also they have problems with the moister from the bottom crawlspace ...
Do you think they can sandwich the underlayment 6mil plastic moister barrier?
Subfloor + 6 mil plastic + plywood + travertine or ditra + travertine.
First option is to do the 6mil under the crawlspace but just looking a cheating option.. 😅
If we install the second layer of plywood what direction we need to lay the plywood? Same as the first layer?
learned a lot from you. Thanks for all your hard work.
My pleasure!
Hi, only the 11/64 trowel works, or can I use something else?
Do you leave a gap against edge of room ? I'm laying some tomorrow.
I think the purpose of the uncoupling membrane is to allow the floor the plywood to expand and contract the tile won't do that as much. Cell has another video about a guy named Steve with a million dollar house who had tile laid and it was a poor job I believe in their sal explains about expansion and contraction.
Thanks for posting. Lots of great info.
Hello, I have a question: I have a finished timber wood floor that’s half an inch thick. The floor is in good condition. Can I install Ditra on top, I would like to put porcelain tiles on top.
I also found that under the wood floor there is no plywood, instead the subfloor is made of 3/4in by 6in wooden planks. If I need to remove the finished floor what thickness plywood should I use?
The porcelain tiles i will install are 2 by 4 feet and thickness is 3/8 of an in. Which ditra thickness should I use?
I really appreciate your videos and sorry for bothering with all these questions, I hope you can answer.
Not sure what you mean by Finished timber wood floor, but probably has to be removed. The subfloor wood planks are not a problem, install 1/2" Plywood according to subfloor installation methods for tile page 17 www.contractorsdirect.com/PDF/ditra-installation-handbook.pdf nd use method D-SP-TS-18 on page 7. Be sure that your floor meets deflection requirements for ceramic tile.
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal,
Thank you so for much for the response. I have one final question: can I use the modified thin-set Exceeds ANSI 118 Versabond LFT underneath and on top of Ditra in order to install my porcelain 2 by 4 feet. I really appreciate your help.
@@maysamoreno4874 I have never been a fan of Custom Products, but according to them you can use it for uncoupling membranes. www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-119.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi ok thank you once again and happy Easter
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, I have another question to ask you. After some thought, I wanted to ask you if the mortar layout I created will work for my ditra.
I took your advice and installed 1/2 inch plywood. I am going to use the Large Format Floor and Wall Tile Mortar from Mapei under my ditra and over my ditra. Then I will install my 2x4 feet porcelain tiles. I wanted to ask you if this is the correct mortar to use under and over my ditra. If it is, how long do I have to wait until I can apply the grouting?
If this is not a product you recommend, I was going to go with UltraFlex from Mapei to go under the Ditra, and Kerabond T or the uncoupling membrane mortar from Mapei to go OVER the ditra.
Please I beg you help me with this. I hope you can help me from your experience. Thank you so much Sal!
Will I still have to worry about any low spots?
Hey great video do you let it dry overnight before installation of new tile?
Don't have to, but preferable.
Sal i leveled my plywood substrate with self leveling concrete and I now I am ready for Ditra what product do you recommend for the thin set? I will be installing penny tile. Thank you.
I just want to do a small powder room, what am I gonna do with 50 feet of this stuff?
How thick is the Ditra with thinset after cementing it down? Curious if its worth doing this or just screwing down a 1/4" piece of cement board.
Thanks for another great video Sal! One question, when the Ditra is all laid down, should you wait a day to lay porcelain tile or can you just start right in on tiling? Trying to do this the right way and in no hurry. I'm using the Schluter All-set thinset for both the Ditra and tile on top of a plywood subfloor that's been cleaned up.
You can start tiling right away, but I prefer to wait until the next day.
Hey Sal, do you have any videos on how to install exterior terra-cotta tile on a stair landing? I tried looking myself, but I didn’t come across any that I viewed.
I don't do outside tile work, to risky in my area.
Any alternative for Ditra trowel? Can I use 1/8 or 1/4x 3/8 trowel ?
On a wood floor, what about a self leveling compound? then Ditra...then tile? Or do you just use a mud bed always?
That is exactly what I want to know...
Did you ever find out the answer to this great question?
Would you recommend doing the longest part of the room which would be the length of the smallest part which would be the width in my case. Do it matter what the over lap is from the edge of the plywood?
Would you use Ditra under a mortar shower base?
here is how to do a shower mud base ruclips.net/video/XqUlGhK9Kys/видео.html
Sal: my floor is uneven by 5/8 from the high to low side. what should i do before laying the ditra down?
Can you apply this dita membrane over existing tile? if so what’s the best way to do so ?
Sal,
Can I use the Schluter All-Set thin set to apply both the ditra membrane and the tile over the ditra
By the way, this job will be over a plywood subfloor
Yes
Sal, Can Ditra be used on the shower sub floor before the motor pan is packed? Thanks.
love your videos, you have taught me a lot!
Can you install this over the viega radiant floor system
You need to contact your schluter rep to get an ok on a case to case basis. Most times they will give you specific instructions on how to proceed if they approve it.
Hi, would it work if I use it over a wood parquet floor? Would remove barnish first.
Thanks for advice
No, Parquet has to go. No ifs ands or buts.
thanks ;)
Thanks for the video.
Hey Sal, can't you use LFT mortar to install tile over Ditra?
Dear Sal, does orientation of Ditra sheets matter? Parallel or perpendicular to the tub? Or certain orientation with regards to joists? Thank you!
No
Awesome know I understand thanks for sharing the Ditra effect.
Can you install over OSB? I see you have regular plywood.
Schluter considers OSB to be the same as Plywood. pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/4011832107092_install.pdf
Hi,great vidoes and very infomative. My floor is 75% wood flooring and the rest is a solid concrete. Do i need to use 2 different adhesives for this?
You must use modified thinset on the plywood, and you can use it on the concrete. You can't however use unmodified to install the dita on plywpod. Then use unmodified to set the tile on the ditra.
Hello Sal. You're videos are extremely helpful. I'm preparing to install Schluter Ditra on OSB but I do not know what is meant by "tightly butted seams must be addressed". Would you please explain.
It is common practice for the carpenters to butt the seams of the OSB tight together, to slam them in tight so there is no gap. They are supposed to engage the tongue and groove without snugging them up. Advantech actually has it written on the edge of the sheets, to leave an 1/8" gap.
My old tile in hallway and powder room was laid over 1/2 inch ply underlay over 5/8 ply subfloor, (2x8 joists 12' long, 16 O.C.) it was ok for 20 years, no cracks or bounce. In one area which will be done with hardwood I removed the tile & underlay and now notice the floor is weaker. So the underlay definitely made a difference. I'm debating on whether or not I even need the ditra, and if I use it, should I beef up the subfloor before using it. I am debating removing the underlay to replace it with something else vs just removing the mortar and re-tiling on the underlay that is existing. Either way its pretty labor intensive. also, if I need to re-tile in another twenty years, what is done about the ditra that is installed and stuck to the subfloor or underlay.
Thanks for your videos.
Your floor structure does not meet L/360, so the tile should have never been installed on that floor in the first place. So you might say that the floor lasted 20 years, no problem. If the floor does not meet deflection requirements, that does not mean it will fail for sure, however id does increase the risk significantly the weaker the floor. ruclips.net/video/74BDTI67S1M/видео.html
Not following minimum standards, TCNA and manufacturers recommendations does not guarantee failure, but following them does ensure success.
@@SalDiBlasi
Apparently I was wrong about these, they are 12 O.C. and 10 foot span, I think that would make a significant difference. Either way, I don't want to do it twice so ill be beefing up the floor with something and then the ditra.
@@Mrdubomb At that joist structure you more than meet deflection requirements.
If I’m building a walk in shower in addition to tiling the floors, should I install ditra before tiling the shower curb?
Not enough info to answer that question.
@@SalDiBlasi I meant when doing the shower curb, I’ve seen where they put a kerdi band between the shower curb bottom and the ditra on the bathroom floor. Is this step necessary or can I install ditra later after the shower is done and tiled?
@@ceeIoc You can if you want, but it is a good idea to do that although not required. You could just leave the tile under the crb until after you tile the floor, that is what I do.
@@SalDiBlasi ok thanks!!
Hi Sal,
Recently came across your videos and very informative and detailed. We will be installing tile on a second floor that's about 1200 sqft.
Is Ditra suppose to be more durable and long lasting than backerboard? Can this be installed all throughout the home including kitchen and restrooms?
Does Ditra also help with soundproofing the floors?
Thank you!
Let me just say that Ditra is much better than Backer board, if you want sound control, then use Ditra TB now called Duo, however works only on a concrete floor, wood subfloors will not see any real benefit.
I have air pockets under the Ditra on wooden floor, I have leveled the subfloor but not perfect. Now I might have to cut the batch of sections out, that is suck!
How do you suppose that happened ? A bit of a bummer but not too hard to cut out and redo the sections. How did it go?
@@torkdork69 Exactly! How the heck did that happen? While mixing the thinset? Too dry a thinset when applying Ditra? Not moisten plywood before thinset? Not troweled correctly? Did not put enough pressure on Ditra with wooden trowel? Did I forget anything? I would like to know the same as I am installing soon.
@@61spindrift most likely the latter of the questions and a mix of the floor having a dip in it. Proper trowel and mix with good added pressure to collapse 90% of ridged should suffice for decades.
Improper troweling. With thinset or mortar for tile you want the grooves to all be going the same direction, no swirling. That way as you bed in the air has a place to go and not be trapped.
@@61spindrift at 11:10 you can see the swirling in the thin set, that is ok for glue, but not bedding tile. You can kind of get away with it with small format tile, but never with large. Straight lines in tile.
Do I use a polymer modified thin set?
ruclips.net/video/S80GVg4Y4MU/видео.html
Thank you very much for this video! We are trying to install Ditra in our bathroom and i would greatly appreciate your advice on plywood underlayment. We have 3/4 plywood over 16 oc trusses and 1/4 underlayment on top of it. Can we install ditra on top of this underlayment (it is hardwood plywood)? Thank you!
The 1/4" has to come out.
Thank you so much for your quick reply. What is the reason 1/4 has to go? What would happen if we install it on 1/4. Appreciate your feedback!
Minimum thickness of plywood in any tile assembly is 3/8, the 1/4" has no structural value and will buckle when you apply the thinset and starts to dry and cure.
if I have a hall that's 3x12 and I have 2 pieces of schluter that are 3x6,can I have a seem on the 3 ft end ? Does it matter if you have a seam at the end (or beginning) of roll(3ft end)if so,do I need to butt it up tight or leave 1/4 gap
Can you install a infloor heating mat over top of Ditra before tiling?
No, either under, or use Ditra Heat.
Great video sal. Can you recommend a tile shop in the Boston area?
I can, where I shop for all my tile needs www.galleriastone.com/Showrooms/Smethurst-Tile/ The Malden store is where I usually go, tell them I sent you.
So what happens should they get water damage and need to remove the existing tile? Will this membrane come up willingly or will you destroy the sub-floor in the process of removing it?
Are you expecting water damage? If so the system can easily be made watertight to eliminate that problem. Tile is a permanent finish, if you worry about removal, then use something else. You don't compromise the installation to make it easier to remove. Plenty of tools and methods to deal with rip outs when it is time.
what is the working time on that thin set? and what brand is it??
+Ridge ForestRun if you mix it correctly and depending on the ambient condition, hours. All thet info is on the bag.
to set the ditra, use modified mortar on bare plywood. if you kept the linolium thats there now, switch to unmodified?
Modified on anything but concrete
@@SalDiBlasi oh, ok, thanks. i thought it had to do with the ability of the mortar to dry. but it must be whether any movement of the base is possible.
I just had a quick question that I haven’t seen answered on the videos I’ve looked at how thick should the thinset be before laying the ditra over it?
Depends on the type of ditra, " For DITRA use a 1/4" x 3/16" (6 mm x 5 mm)
V-notched trowel, 5/16" x 5/16" (8 mm x 8 mm)
V-notched trowel, or the DITRA trowel which
features a 11/64" x 11/64" (4.5 mm x 4.5 mm)
square-notched design.
For DITRA-XL use a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm)
square-notched trowel or the DITRA-XL trowel,
which features a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm)
square-notched design." Page 18 of the ditra handbook sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h66/h6e/8917114126366/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
what thinset if I'm installing it over hardy backer, modified or unmodified?
Do not install ditra over cement board, one or the other, not both.
I trust Sal on anything he says however, I am not sure he understood what you were doing. I believe hardy backer is a great substrate for Ditra. And I am thinking that unmodified would be the product. Just guessing, anyone know for sure reading this?
hey Sal ... what are some good unmodified thinsets
Tec uncoupling membrane Mortar, Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317, Bostic Ditra-Set are a few
Thanks for the video it has been very informative but would it be ok to use this over vinyl flooring
sparkyth67 There is a method to install Ditra on a linoleum floor, which is to use a quick set modified thinset to install the ditra, but there are a lot of restrictions, limitations and things that have to be checked before you do it. My advise to you is to remove the vinyl and go back to the substrate. The chances of it failing are too great in my opinion. If the vinyl is a tile, I would not even consider it at all.
***** thanks for the quick response I am going to put down plywood over the subloor anyway in order to raise it up some as well as cover up the osb I don't care what anyone says osb is not as good as plywood maybe I could go over the vinyl floor with that then put down the ditra
Minimum thickness of plywood is 3/8" , make sure that the vinyl is only one layer, that it is not a cushion backed vinyl, that it is well adhered to the substrate, that it is not just a perimeter glue down, but best practice is to remove it.
***** yes I have 3/4 inch osb with glued down vinyl tiles I was going to plan on 3/8 inch Plywood but was thinking about putting down some floor leveling compound first before I installed the plywood
sparkyth67
I would first install the plywood, then do the leveling and then ditra as the last layer, you don't want to nail through the leveling compound and break it up.
What about the joint lines /seams of the ditra , does it have to be taped ?
no.
@@SalDiBlasi
Thanks sal.
I watch ur videos all the time. U taught me a lot
Hi Sal, great vids , I really learn a lot. I am gutting the kitchen, installing 3/4 in plywood to sub floor, should I install one layer of plywood or two, as long as I don’t over extend height to include tile?
You need to determine the floor deflection, Needs to be L/360 or better for porcelain tile, and no need for the second layer of plywood. On the other hand, for natural stone, you need L/720 and also the second layer of plywood.
I love your videos. I've just completely gutted my 13x12 master bathroom. I've ripped up the 1/2" plywood underlayment down to the 5/8" plywood sub floor. I was planning on adding new 1/2" plywood underlayment back down once all the plumbing was moved. Should I just go over the subfloor with the Ditra Heat or add the underlayment? Ty
In most cases you can go over the sub floor if it is all tongue and grove or blocked, if you are not installing a natural stone tile and if it meets L/360.
Hello Sal. I've installed some ditra over concrete and after the fact noticed a low spot. Can I put some sort of leveling compound on top of the ditra before placing tile down? Thanks
Derrick Gettinger The only thing that should be put over the ditra is unmodified thinset, so no leveling compound.
***** okay, thanks Sal!
Hi Sal. I just installed the Ditra and wanted to fill the waffles but wasn't sure what type of mortar to use. Can you advise? Thanks, Rob
Rob Ryan If you fill the waffles and let it dry you can use modified if you like, but if you do not let it dry and tile as you go it must be unmodified. You can also fill with unmodified, do not use modified to set the tile. So to avoid buying two kinds of thinset just stick to the unmodified.
Sal after installing the membrane to the floor I find it easier to also fill the waffles, then tile the next day. You find this to be helpful?
Jean Marino a lot of guys do that, I really don't see the need, seems like an extra step that is not needed.
Main benefit to doing that would be the ability to pop chalk lines for the layout. Trying to mark/pop lines on Ditra is next to impossible be it's basically plastic..
@@joefowler3106 If you aren't taping and making it perfectly waterproof (I am only doing that by the tub), you can just nail/screw down a ledger board to start your tile out properly down a line in the middle of the room. Remove it when that row is done and just tile off of that. Or use a laser with marks on the wall/floor somewhere perhaps?
Sal - I just pulled up old tile in my bathroom that was laid over a cement board underlayment over OSB. I use a rotary hammer and chisel to pull it all up but there is still a thin smooth layer of thin set over the OSB in most places. I found that chiseling down to the OSB was tearing up the board. Can I lay Ditra over old thin set? Thanks for your videos.
You have few options, most common are to grind it down with a cup grinder, which is pretty quick, or if it is really stuck and you are sure it will not be a bond inhibitor, clean it up and go over it with new mortar as you set your ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi So what did you do and is it holding up a year later? I would have thought you could just go over with thinset but definitely use a boding agent or primer first.
Great video Sal. How much of an expansion gap do you leave between the ditra and exterior walls, pillars, columns etc?
about 1/4"
Sal DiBlasi Thanks Sal
@@SalDiBlasi why do you have to leave a gap?
Sal, thx for answering all my questions sir, here's one more for you. I want to put mosaic tiles on my stair risers. I wanted to use cement board, but the bottom riser is rounded on one side. Can I use ditra on the risers instead of the cement board?
+fencerider Ditra is really for floors, but i have used it to build out the wall for a mosaic boarder. This would be a better way to go www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Building-Panels/KERDI-BOARD-Panels/Schluter%C2%AE-KERDI-BOARD-V/p/KERDI_BOARD-V but you probably don't want to buy a whole sheet for that small area.
As always, thanks Sal.
Dear Sal, wonderful video, very informative! I do not see you however, describing the requirements for the sub-floor, this would be a great addition to this educational video. I am planning to install ditra in our bathroom and am searching for answers about sub-floor specifics. Would greatly appreciate your advice. I am going to install 3/8 plywood underlayment (to match old floor height) on top of the existing 3/4 sub-floor (per ditra instructions) and the only 3/8 i see in stores around me is pine plywood or yellow pine plywood. I am not sure, is this type of softwood appropriate for the ditra underlayment? Could you please share your experiences? Thank you.
This video ruclips.net/video/74BDTI67S1M/видео.html and page 18 in this PDF www.contractorsdirect.com/PDF/ditra-installation-handbook.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi Thank you, Sal, appreciate your reply. I watched the video and read the installation instruction from Ditra but cannot find the answer to my question on whether pine plywood is a good underlayment for ditra. I even called Schluter but the lady on the phone could not give a definite answer because it was not specified in their instructions. Would appreciate you advice based on your many years of experience in this field. Thank you.
@@russici That should be fine. Just make sure you are installing perpendicular to the pattern of the subfloor so it tightens the assembly.
do you let it set over night?
You don't have to, but I usually do.
Can you install ditra over concrete?
Yes you can, only difference is that you would use unmodified thinset to install the Ditra, I did mention this in the video.
Sal, I am currently tiling a small restroom which the floor is concrete slab. Any benefit of using Schluter Ditra installed over concrete slab? Thanks!
For sure, always better to have an uncoupling membrane.
@@SalDiBlasi Great...I will use it on my project! Thanks!
Hi Sal
I used Ditra in a large kitchen. The tiler got us to lay it and fill the dovetails the day before he arrived. He then tiled onto our dry adhesive with a notched trowel bed. A year on one or two of the tiles are sounding hollow which I assume this means the bond has gone. I have checked Schluter's video and they don't show it being fillled before tiling. What do you think? I won't be calling him up to argue but I need to get it right next time.
+Skill Builder Filling the day before is not a problem, however having you install the ditra for him may not have been a good move. Although it is straight forward, it needs to be done properly and installed with the correct type of thinset and trowel.
+Sal DiBlasi
Thanks for the reply. He was tied up on another job so we had to move it along. I am fairly sure we did it right because he showed us exactly what to do and we pushed it down with a wood float The bond appears to be lost between the tile and the Ditra. No matter it is just slightly annoying. Good to see you doing it right and we will take care on the next job to use the polymer modified.
Is it OK to use this product on OSB?
Yes it is, here is a link to the Ditra handbook s3.amazonaws.com/scclegacy/media/ditra-handbook_eng.pdf?v=201507140600
Hi Sal ! Can you help me to find the right mortar please, I live in Canada and I dont know witch one to choose. We have Home Depot, Rona (it's like Lowes). My job is: I do have one layer of 5/8 plywood glue and screw, I will install 24'' X 48'' large format tile. I will use Ditra (not heating). So I'm looking for a brench of mortar for underneet the Ditra and over the Ditra after. Good video !
Not sure if the standards for mortar are the same in Canada, to install the ditra to the plywood look for a mortar that meets or exceeds ANSI A118.11 This would include thinsets like Mapei Ultraflex 2, Laticrete 235 gold, ardex x5, or Schluter AllSet. To install the tile on the ditra, Schluter AllSet, (yes modified mortar) Schluter says to use an unmodified mortar if you do not use their brand of mortar, The standard is A118.1 This would include Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane Mortar, However that is not to say a modified mortar will not work, but it will not preserve the warranty if you decide to use a modified mortar to set your tile on ditra. There have been some developments with thinset in the past few years that has made solved the problem of using modified mortar on ditra, but you have to know which modified mortar can be used.
There is a store who sale Mapei Keraflex plus, the men told me I can use that for plywood and Ditra, and even on top of the Ditra with large tile 2' X 4'. What do you think about it ? Is it good ? Its 29.99$ a bag. Thanks again Sal.
Sal Diblasi: Hi Sal, I need your comment ont that: There is my floor layout: Joist 16'-8'' and 17' at 16'' center with 5/8 plywood tong and groove glue and screew. For the deflexion of the joist the place I bought the joist said L648, L699,L745. I need to tell you than I will have an island of 73'' X 84'' with granit counter top on top of my 24'' X 48'' tile. Do you think my joist are enought strong for not cracking my tile ? Deflexion is ok for the lenght of the joist? Would you add a second layer of plywood on top of my 5/8, maybee 1/2 or an other 5/8 plywood? Thanks for helping me, by the way you are a good teacher !
@@stevebeaulieu2617 For the deflection plug your numbers in here www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl you did not specify the unsupported span. As far as the thinset goes it is Exceeds ANSI A118.4HTE and A118.11 requirements
and is suitable for plywood, Can you install your tile on Ditra with it, sure, but you will void the schluter warranty, to maintain the warranty you can use Schluter AllSet if you want modified mortar, or any brand of unmodified mortar.
Sal, how do you keep the Kerdi Band from making the floor uneven? I notice that you don't put the Kerdi band on the Ditra seams.
Kerdi band is very thin, usually not a problem it is not needed unless you want to make the floor waterproof
How long should I wait for ditra thinset to dry before applying tile on top of it?
+Serge Shariy You can install tile immediately, but i like to wait overnight if i can.
can i put this stuff down on wood floorboards or do i have to fix plywood to the floorboads first?
No you can not put it down on floor board, and that goes for cement board as well, if you were thinking of doing that. Plywood must be installed first.