I’m a beginner, this channel is the best one I’ve found yet. Excellent instruction, every potential pit fall is covered. A true teacher , understanding all the common mistakes and making them avoidable. Sounds daft but I am very grateful ?
Thank you so very much for this tutorial. I had no idea how to add a cable component to a project before watching this video. I really appreciate that you share the "why" in addition to the "how".
Thank you for another techniques video. You are a wonderful teacher. This cable session came at an opportune time for me. I am completing my submission of Level 1 of the CYC Instructor certificate program. I planned leg warmers as a homework project with the first one in stockinette and a cable in the second. I managed it alright without adding stitches to accommodate the cable but I can see now that was just dumb luck. Your lessons are always a revelation.
Ribbing helps to avoid cable flare a bit more than stitch patterns that lie flat, because it pulls in. I'm glad you were able to squeak by with your project, though! Good luck on your certification. I enjoyed that program when I did it (while waiting for my results of the master hand knitting program).
Hugely useful, especially with your excellent use of samples and mark up -- so helpful to have both the description and visible examples that walk you through a process, a narrative of how you would use this. I always appreciate it Roxanne!
I'm actually swatching for my very cable sweater!!! My math SUCKS soooo bad I'll have to watch this quite a few more times before it all makes sense. I understood that cables put in and require but I never even considered that I'd need more stitches than for the ribbing due to the cables. I didn't even think to do the ribbing along with the cable pattern. I've learned so much already!! Thank you. xoxo
Bernadette, did you leave me question this morning? I got an email notifying me that you had a question about this video, but it seems to have disappeared. Not sure if you deleted it (answered it yourself), or if it has just vanished. Let me know!
This is SO helpful and interesting. Thank you! I adore cables and want to swap out cables in some projects in the future. I have Norah Gaughan’s excellent Cable Sourcebook with its Stocking Stitch Equivalent system but now understand that swatching (as always) is the key.
So helpful Rox! I keep going back for refreshers in the start of a new knitting year. Wishing you continued success in 2022! Love and appreciate all your technique Tues tutorials. 🙏🏻❤️🧶🥰
Thank you for a clear and easy to understand explanation. I have been trying to do this for some time now and I can finally finish my design. Thank you.
thank you as always for sharing your knowledge! 🩷 i couldn’t have come across this video at a more opportune time as i’ve been wanting to knit my first ever cabled cardigan ☺️
Well, thought I'd be among the first 2 or 3 to wish you a Happy New Year, but apparently I was slow! 😆 Thanks for your wonderful, informative videos. Keep'em coming!
HI Roxanne - this is super helpful :) Can you have a video to show how you add cable knit to a plan kitted garment/square - just to see how you get started. Thank you
I suppose by comparing the difference in the number of sts you'd have in stockinette vs the cabled fabric. So if you would have used 100 sts per row/rnd in stockinette, but you need 120 sts when doing cables, you'd need 20% more yarn for the sections you are working in the cabled fabric.
You are a fantastic teacher and I love watching your videos . I’m working on another Aran afghan but this time want to avoid the “flare”. I was too far into my last one to make the appropriate changes . I want to avoid flaring in this one and know I need to add stitches after I do a 2 inch seed stitch border, but where ? My cable is worked on 32 stitches but where do the added stitches go to not mess up my cable pattern? What am I missing?
I have a video on cable flare here: ruclips.net/video/Lx-XP9QvRLM/видео.html The quick answer is that you work the increases in your last row of the border pattern (or in the cable set up row), across the sts where the cables will be.
Hello Roxanne, I’m having problems knitting C10B cables in chunky yarn with a tidy crossover ladder, I’ve tried reversing the purl stitch but it makes no difference. Have you a relevant tutorial please? Thank you.
Of course I find this video AFTER I'm half way through a project I've decided to add cables to 😅 oh well, the cables seem quite stretchy so hopefully it still works out
Question, could I still do this individual cable math, you know, swatching the individual cables and measuring the width for my sweater that uses 4 types of cables in a symmetrical pattern? Or should I just do essentially half sweater swatches for it? I’m leaning towards the half sweater swatch because it’s so many cables and of different types. This is what I’m doing for my sweater as it would appear from left to right on the front and back: Left twist | 4 strand braid | Saxon Braid | Celtic Knot | Saxon Braid | 4 strand braid | Right twist Which means that I would be knitting it the opposite way, starting with the right twist and ending with the left twist. That’s so much cabling that I’m not sure the individual cable measurements would cut it. That doesn’t mean that I won’t do individual cable swatches, but it does mean that I would need to do more than just that. Since all the cables I’m using except the Celtic Knot have a column of 2 purl stitches on either side, I’m thinking I should first do a swatch with no added stitches between cables, measure it, see how it would fit, and then gradually add purl stitches to the swatches until I reach a good size and use that as the basis for my pattern(I’m anticipating that the no added stitches swatch will be too small). And since I’m planning on doing this sweater in the round and having the 2 twist cables on each side(1 for the front and 1 for the back) as close as possible, I would not be using a filler stitch at the edge, so I shouldn’t include that in my swatch, right, just the cables?
This is so fantastic! Thank you so much! Quick clarifying question: do you do the increases in the first row of the cables, or do you do a row in between the filler stitch and the cables? I would think it would be the former, but having not yet done cables (although they are less intimidating after watching your videos!), I'm not quite clear on the logistics of that stage. Thank you for any clarification you can offer!
It could be either, or both, depending on how many sts need to be increased, and whether you are trying to maintain certain columns of sts from the first pattern into the cable pattern (e.g. maintain a 2-st column of knits in ribbing as a 2-st stockinette rope of a traveling cable). The first cable crossing is usually within the first few rows after the transition, so there is typically some ability to work increases prior to the first crossing, but you might need/want to do additional increases during the first crossing. Every situation is different.
@@RoxanneRichardson wow, thank you so much! Definitely more nuanced than I'd thought, so I'm glad I asked! I think when I make the leap into working with cables, I'll probably choose something that isn't a fitted garment so that I can get a better feel for how to work them without having to be concerned with getting a good fit, too, especially since I've only made two sweaters at this point, which were far from perfect but had some great lessons. Also, do you have any tips on how to approach beginning to work with cables? I'd probably place myself in the adventurous beginner to intermediate knitter category in general (with the tendency, meanwhile, of choosing projects as if I'm an advanced knitter that's been at it for decades because I apparently love a challenge....), but I'm definitely a complete beginner when it comes to cables. So any pointers for resources to check out would be great. Sorry if it's too general a question, though. Thanks again!
@@AmoCultumAlo Pick a pattern for a small project that you like, and which a lot of other people have knit, and which the results seem to be routinely successful. (Look at the projects marked Most Helpful to guide you to projects with good project nots on Ravelry.) I would actually recommend something that is knit flat, because the WS rows will just be knit the knits and purl the purls, there won't be any crossing of cables. It's easier to know on a RS crossing row whether you are crossing too early or too late. When you work a cable project in the round, every row is a RS row, so it's much easier to mess up by crossing a round early or a round late.
What kind of increases do you do before starting the cable pattern? And if I'm making a sweater (bottom up) with ribbing at the bottom, would I do the increases in my last row of ribbing?
If your last ribbing row is a WS row, and you have a cable crossing row on the first RS row, you can do the increases in the last row of ribbing. If your first cable crossing row isn't immediately after the ribbing is complete, then you can do increases in the first row after the ribbing. Sometimes, you can work an increase as you work your first crossing, e.g. if you have to work a 3x3 cable, but have only 5 sts, you can cross 3 sts over 2 sts, increasing those 2 sts to 3 as you work them. The increase will be hidden in the crossed sts. It just depends on how you're transitioning from the ribbing to the cable pattern, and whether you're trying to create continuity from the ribbing sts into the cables. That will all depend on the particular project.
Thank you for your quick and detailed reply! I think I'd rather do the increases in the last row of ribbing because working them at the same time as cable crossings sounds a bit to difficult for me right now.
I always used to knit Aran's with oiled wool,you didn't need to use a cable needle,as dropped stitches didn't unravel, but just sat there until you needed to pick them up again, I used to knit with Blarney's oiled bainin wool, which was tough on the hands, but a little water repellent, The mill has now closed, and I haven't been able to find another source of oiled wool, any ideas?
For some reason, many knitters have been led to believe that top down construction is the only way to knit seamlessly. Any type of sweater can be knit top down or bottom up, and can be knit seamlessly, or flat with seams. In addition to the choice of knitting direction, there are lots of construction choices for how the bodice is worked: raglan, yoke, drop shoulder, modified drop shoulder, or set-in sleeves. Any of those can be knit with cables. I would suggest figuring out what sorts of attributes you want from your sweater, in terms of bodice/sleeve type, and then use the advanced pattern search on Ravelry to filter for those attributes, in addition to having cables as one of the fabric attributes.
While knitting a sweater, I discovered that it was too big. So, I dropped back a section of the stitches and reworked it in cables. The more stitches in the cables the more it reduced the extra fabric.
I am knitting this top-down raglan cardigan in the largest size. Can you please interpret the following instructions regarding EVERY 14TH ROW and EVERY 12TH ROW? When do I start EVERY 12TH ROW? Pattern instructions are: Row 16 (Buttonhole Row) Work as for row 2 to last 5 sts, k 2, yo, k2tog, k 1. Rep Buttonhole Row EVERY 14TH ROW 1 (3, 6, 2, 2) TIMES, THEN EVERY 12TH ROW 6 (4, 1, 6, 6) TIMES and AT SAME TIME, continue as follows: Row 17 and all WS rows to lower band [K 1, p 1] twice, k 1, p to last 5 sts, [k 1, p 1] twice, k 1. Row 18 [K to marker, yo, sm, k 1, yo] 4 times, k to end. Rep last 2 rows 10 (12, 15, 17, 19) times more, working buttonholes when necessary - 218 (238, 266, 282, 306) sts. Next row Rep Row 17. My interpretation is that the Buttonhole rows start at Row 16 then EVERY 14TH ROW (2 TIMES FOR THE LARGEST SIZE) is Row 30 then Row 44. THEN EVERY 12TH ROW (6 TIMES FOR THE LARGEST SIZE) gives me Rows 56, 68, 80, 92, 104, and 116. Your help is greatly appreciated.
I’m a beginner, this channel is the best one I’ve found yet. Excellent instruction, every potential pit fall is covered.
A true teacher , understanding all the common mistakes and making them avoidable. Sounds daft but I am very grateful ?
Thank you so very much for this tutorial. I had no idea how to add a cable component to a project before watching this video. I really appreciate that you share the "why" in addition to the "how".
Your explanation gave me a huge lightbulb moment... thank you for explaining it so clearly.
Thank you for another techniques video. You are a wonderful teacher. This cable session came at an opportune time for me. I am completing my submission of Level 1 of the CYC Instructor certificate program. I planned leg warmers as a homework project with the first one in stockinette and a cable in the second. I managed it alright without adding stitches to accommodate the cable but I can see now that was just dumb luck. Your lessons are always a revelation.
Ribbing helps to avoid cable flare a bit more than stitch patterns that lie flat, because it pulls in. I'm glad you were able to squeak by with your project, though! Good luck on your certification. I enjoyed that program when I did it (while waiting for my results of the master hand knitting program).
Awesome Roxanne! You always have just the right instruction and examples for what I want to learn next. Thank you.
You are such a great teacher! Thank you so much for all your videos!
Hugely useful, especially with your excellent use of samples and mark up -- so helpful to have both the description and visible examples that walk you through a process, a narrative of how you would use this. I always appreciate it Roxanne!
I'm actually swatching for my very cable sweater!!! My math SUCKS soooo bad I'll have to watch this quite a few more times before it all makes sense. I understood that cables put in and require but I never even considered that I'd need more stitches than for the ribbing due to the cables. I didn't even think to do the ribbing along with the cable pattern. I've learned so much already!!
Thank you. xoxo
Bernadette, did you leave me question this morning? I got an email notifying me that you had a question about this video, but it seems to have disappeared. Not sure if you deleted it (answered it yourself), or if it has just vanished. Let me know!
@@RoxanneRichardson Sorry it did that, I did delete the message. As I continued to watch the video it made sense and answered my question.
I’ve learned so much from your videos, but this one was particularly good! I was riveted!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic! Thank you so much, I love these detailed podcasts. I sit with notebook in hand each time.
This is SO helpful and interesting. Thank you! I adore cables and want to swap out cables in some projects in the future. I have Norah Gaughan’s excellent Cable Sourcebook with its Stocking Stitch Equivalent system but now understand that swatching (as always) is the key.
So helpful Rox! I keep going back for refreshers in the start of a new knitting year. Wishing you continued success in 2022! Love and appreciate all your technique Tues tutorials. 🙏🏻❤️🧶🥰
Thank you for all you do for all use knitters, it is appreciated!
Happy New Year!!!
Thank you Roxanne! That helped me see why swatches are important and how cables affect the project. Neat!
Thank you for a clear and easy to understand explanation. I have been trying to do this for some time now and I can finally finish my design. Thank you.
Such a nice description of cables, thank you👍
Great block of instructions...Thank you.
Very interesting technique video! Thanks for sharing!
Another great tuturial.Thanks so so much.
Thank you for such straightforward helpful information. Totally spot on 👌. 🐢
this is so clever, thank you!
Thank you this is great. I am knitting fingerless gloves and just wanted a simple cable at the front. :)
Just what I needed! Great video!
Great explanation!
Love helpful video, thank you 🙂
This is great. Thank you!
thank you as always for sharing your knowledge! 🩷 i couldn’t have come across this video at a more opportune time as i’ve been wanting to knit my first ever cabled cardigan ☺️
Well, thought I'd be among the first 2 or 3 to wish you a Happy New Year, but apparently I was slow! 😆 Thanks for your wonderful, informative videos. Keep'em coming!
Happy New Year!🎉✌🏻❤️🧶
WOW! Thank you, I needed this info.
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year!!
Thank you so much.
HI Roxanne - this is super helpful :) Can you have a video to show how you add cable knit to a plan kitted garment/square - just to see how you get started. Thank you
This is great! But I have a question: How do you calculate how much extra yarn yardage (yarnage?) you need?
I suppose by comparing the difference in the number of sts you'd have in stockinette vs the cabled fabric. So if you would have used 100 sts per row/rnd in stockinette, but you need 120 sts when doing cables, you'd need 20% more yarn for the sections you are working in the cabled fabric.
You are a fantastic teacher and I love watching your videos . I’m working on another Aran afghan but this time want to avoid the “flare”. I was too far into my last one to make the appropriate changes . I want to avoid flaring in this one and know I need to add stitches after I do a 2 inch seed stitch border, but where ? My cable is worked on 32 stitches but where do the added stitches go to not mess up my cable pattern? What am I missing?
I have a video on cable flare here: ruclips.net/video/Lx-XP9QvRLM/видео.html The quick answer is that you work the increases in your last row of the border pattern (or in the cable set up row), across the sts where the cables will be.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you for your reply and the link was very helpful.
Thank you for sharing😊
Hello Roxanne, I’m having problems knitting C10B cables in chunky yarn with a tidy crossover ladder, I’ve tried reversing the purl stitch but it makes no difference. Have you a relevant tutorial please? Thank you.
Of course I find this video AFTER I'm half way through a project I've decided to add cables to 😅 oh well, the cables seem quite stretchy so hopefully it still works out
Would love to see you giving a tutorial how to make from beginning to end an Aran Cable Knit Dress in Large sizes , say size 16 and 18. Thank-you.
very helpful. thank you. m
Question, could I still do this individual cable math, you know, swatching the individual cables and measuring the width for my sweater that uses 4 types of cables in a symmetrical pattern? Or should I just do essentially half sweater swatches for it? I’m leaning towards the half sweater swatch because it’s so many cables and of different types. This is what I’m doing for my sweater as it would appear from left to right on the front and back:
Left twist | 4 strand braid | Saxon Braid | Celtic Knot | Saxon Braid | 4 strand braid | Right twist
Which means that I would be knitting it the opposite way, starting with the right twist and ending with the left twist. That’s so much cabling that I’m not sure the individual cable measurements would cut it. That doesn’t mean that I won’t do individual cable swatches, but it does mean that I would need to do more than just that. Since all the cables I’m using except the Celtic Knot have a column of 2 purl stitches on either side, I’m thinking I should first do a swatch with no added stitches between cables, measure it, see how it would fit, and then gradually add purl stitches to the swatches until I reach a good size and use that as the basis for my pattern(I’m anticipating that the no added stitches swatch will be too small).
And since I’m planning on doing this sweater in the round and having the 2 twist cables on each side(1 for the front and 1 for the back) as close as possible, I would not be using a filler stitch at the edge, so I shouldn’t include that in my swatch, right, just the cables?
This is so fantastic! Thank you so much! Quick clarifying question: do you do the increases in the first row of the cables, or do you do a row in between the filler stitch and the cables? I would think it would be the former, but having not yet done cables (although they are less intimidating after watching your videos!), I'm not quite clear on the logistics of that stage. Thank you for any clarification you can offer!
It could be either, or both, depending on how many sts need to be increased, and whether you are trying to maintain certain columns of sts from the first pattern into the cable pattern (e.g. maintain a 2-st column of knits in ribbing as a 2-st stockinette rope of a traveling cable).
The first cable crossing is usually within the first few rows after the transition, so there is typically some ability to work increases prior to the first crossing, but you might need/want to do additional increases during the first crossing. Every situation is different.
@@RoxanneRichardson wow, thank you so much! Definitely more nuanced than I'd thought, so I'm glad I asked! I think when I make the leap into working with cables, I'll probably choose something that isn't a fitted garment so that I can get a better feel for how to work them without having to be concerned with getting a good fit, too, especially since I've only made two sweaters at this point, which were far from perfect but had some great lessons.
Also, do you have any tips on how to approach beginning to work with cables? I'd probably place myself in the adventurous beginner to intermediate knitter category in general (with the tendency, meanwhile, of choosing projects as if I'm an advanced knitter that's been at it for decades because I apparently love a challenge....), but I'm definitely a complete beginner when it comes to cables. So any pointers for resources to check out would be great. Sorry if it's too general a question, though.
Thanks again!
@@AmoCultumAlo Pick a pattern for a small project that you like, and which a lot of other people have knit, and which the results seem to be routinely successful. (Look at the projects marked Most Helpful to guide you to projects with good project nots on Ravelry.) I would actually recommend something that is knit flat, because the WS rows will just be knit the knits and purl the purls, there won't be any crossing of cables. It's easier to know on a RS crossing row whether you are crossing too early or too late. When you work a cable project in the round, every row is a RS row, so it's much easier to mess up by crossing a round early or a round late.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much! I will definitely do as you advise. Off to look at Ravelry! Thank you!
What kind of increases do you do before starting the cable pattern? And if I'm making a sweater (bottom up) with ribbing at the bottom, would I do the increases in my last row of ribbing?
If your last ribbing row is a WS row, and you have a cable crossing row on the first RS row, you can do the increases in the last row of ribbing. If your first cable crossing row isn't immediately after the ribbing is complete, then you can do increases in the first row after the ribbing. Sometimes, you can work an increase as you work your first crossing, e.g. if you have to work a 3x3 cable, but have only 5 sts, you can cross 3 sts over 2 sts, increasing those 2 sts to 3 as you work them. The increase will be hidden in the crossed sts. It just depends on how you're transitioning from the ribbing to the cable pattern, and whether you're trying to create continuity from the ribbing sts into the cables. That will all depend on the particular project.
Thank you for your quick and detailed reply! I think I'd rather do the increases in the last row of ribbing because working them at the same time as cable crossings sounds a bit to difficult for me right now.
Cool
I always used to knit Aran's with oiled wool,you didn't need to use a cable needle,as dropped stitches didn't unravel, but just sat there until you needed to pick them up again, I used to knit with Blarney's oiled bainin wool, which was tough on the hands, but a little water repellent, The mill has now closed, and I haven't been able to find another source of oiled wool, any ideas?
You might ask in the Yarn & Fiber forum on Ravelry to see if anyone there has any suggestions.
Smart!
Have you ever added cables to a top down sweater? I hate seaming and would love to do one. Any suggestions?
For some reason, many knitters have been led to believe that top down construction is the only way to knit seamlessly. Any type of sweater can be knit top down or bottom up, and can be knit seamlessly, or flat with seams. In addition to the choice of knitting direction, there are lots of construction choices for how the bodice is worked: raglan, yoke, drop shoulder, modified drop shoulder, or set-in sleeves. Any of those can be knit with cables. I would suggest figuring out what sorts of attributes you want from your sweater, in terms of bodice/sleeve type, and then use the advanced pattern search on Ravelry to filter for those attributes, in addition to having cables as one of the fabric attributes.
While knitting a sweater, I discovered that it was too big. So, I dropped back a section of the stitches and reworked it in cables. The more stitches in the cables the more it reduced the extra fabric.
Makes sense to me, I love math. : D
I am knitting this top-down raglan cardigan in the largest size.
Can you please interpret the following instructions regarding EVERY 14TH ROW and EVERY 12TH ROW?
When do I start EVERY 12TH ROW?
Pattern instructions are:
Row 16 (Buttonhole Row) Work as for row 2 to last 5 sts, k 2, yo, k2tog, k 1.
Rep Buttonhole Row EVERY 14TH ROW 1 (3, 6, 2, 2) TIMES, THEN EVERY 12TH ROW 6 (4, 1, 6, 6) TIMES
and AT SAME TIME, continue as follows:
Row 17 and all WS rows to lower band [K 1, p 1] twice, k 1, p to last 5 sts, [k 1, p 1] twice, k 1.
Row 18 [K to marker, yo, sm, k 1, yo] 4 times, k to end. Rep last 2 rows 10 (12, 15, 17, 19) times more, working buttonholes when necessary - 218 (238, 266, 282, 306) sts.
Next row Rep Row 17.
My interpretation is that the Buttonhole rows start at Row 16 then EVERY 14TH ROW (2 TIMES FOR THE LARGEST SIZE) is Row 30 then Row 44.
THEN EVERY 12TH ROW (6 TIMES FOR THE LARGEST SIZE) gives me Rows 56, 68, 80, 92, 104, and 116.
Your help is greatly appreciated.
I'm always happy to answer project questions in my Ravelry group. You can find a link in the video description.
I want to sell my works ,but I am soofar.I ca knot everything .