ive just recvently started wathcing your channel and its awesome keep up the great work. im in australia and planning on manual swapping my z32 wtin turbo. what are the details i need to look for when ordering and sourcing a one piece driveshaft
Thanks man! Just keep an eye out for the 2 seater vs 2+2 driveshafts, they’re different lengths. Also make sure to get a manual transmission one of course, also a different length vs the auto.
Nicely done video, makes me wish i could have documented my manual swap. also the one piece aluminum drive shaft is the way to go. That carrier baring always turns itself in to the drive shaft safety loop in the end.
Would highly suggest you ditch the factory shifter mount and the plate system. They’re prone to taking a dump and then you’ll have your shifter smashing into the driveshaft which isn’t a fun experience. Z Speed designed and released a solid steel mount system that eliminates all of the factory failure points of the shifter design. I upgraded mine back in 2011 and it’s not been a single issue the entire time since. You won’t be able to repair the ripped rubber piece in the shifter plate, that’s one of the bits that is always breaking. Just go Z Speed and you’ll never have to deal with that ever again. A very satisfying feeling. Also would recommend ditching the factory clutch fork and swapping it to the 350Z fork as it is a solid piece versus the stamped sheet steel design Nissan came up with over 30 years ago…more of that increased reliability that just goes and helps this model out as it’s known for not being a very reliable vehicle to own
I to love the idea of trying to make all the rotating mass lighter. Have you thought about changing out all the pulleys for lightweight? Seems low cost, would enjoy seeing the install
@@noboltsleftbehind oh also I just find out you can get lightweight better performance harmonic dampers. Not sure if this engine uses one ? Don’t quote me but I think you could save 5lbs off rotational mass
In this case I wasn't worried about doing damage to the transmission since I was throwing it away, but I'd say it's fine to lift it by the pan as long as you spread the weight out and you're careful not to dent it.
Unrelated I meant to ask in your previous video when you were upgrading your speakers and CD player how did you take off your door panels so easily? Did you already have some steps done already or did you learn a shortcut?
I think the only step I might not have shown was removing the bolt holding the top trim piece that's behind the small round cover on the outside of the door. There are also a few screws around the perimeter of the door panel, but otherwise it just popped right off.
Thanks for this video. Would you mind telling me the dimensions for the 5 speed, especially the height of the bell housing? I am literally going to remove mine tomorrow. I made wheel cribs 14" high, but am concerned about having enough space. I will be using a Harbor Freight transmission jack and it sits 7 1/2" at its lowest. Thanks again.
I don’t have the transmission handy to take measurements but I can say my wheel cribs are 12” tall and I’m using probably the same transmission jack so it should be doable. You’ll have to get the transmission up on the jack while under the car, and extra set of hands definitely helps.
@@noboltsleftbehind I'm removing mine because I'm in the process of swapping an LS3 in. They say it's easier to drop the transmission first, then remove the stock engine by itself. Though some people don't mind playing around with the engine & tranny bolted together. I'd rather not LOL!
@@eekay3646 that's awesome, that's the dream swap right there. I'm interested to see how that comes out. I'd say you're on the right track, the stock transmission came out pretty easily for me with those 12" cribs so you're in good shape if you have a bit more lift. Good luck!
Hey, I'm getting my late Grandpa's 1990 300ZX, do you know the offset for the tires to line up with the body properly? And any tips for things that should be looked at first? It's been garage kept and never driven in the winter, and only sometimes driven at all.
I know the stock twin turbo wheels I have fit pretty well, they’re a 16x7.5 with a 45mm offset in the front and a 16x8.5 with 35mm in the rear. I have 245s in the back, I feel like you could even fit just a little bigger if you wanted
Sounds like a pretty special car, I’d say other than the standard maintenance stuff like fluids, belts, timing belt, maybe check out your engine electrical connections for corrosion or cracked plastic clips. I had some trouble with mine that is simple to fix but will cause problems. Take a look at your u-joints and center driveshaft bearing too if you feel any vibrations.
You're my hero and probably the only way I'll finish this lol.
That's awesome man, glad I could help! If you hit any snags along the way just drop a comment and I'll try and help 👍
ive just recvently started wathcing your channel and its awesome keep up the great work. im in australia and planning on manual swapping my z32 wtin turbo. what are the details i need to look for when ordering and sourcing a one piece driveshaft
Thanks man! Just keep an eye out for the 2 seater vs 2+2 driveshafts, they’re different lengths. Also make sure to get a manual transmission one of course, also a different length vs the auto.
Nicely done video, makes me wish i could have documented my manual swap. also the one piece aluminum drive shaft is the way to go. That carrier baring always turns itself in to the drive shaft safety loop in the end.
Would highly suggest you ditch the factory shifter mount and the plate system. They’re prone to taking a dump and then you’ll have your shifter smashing into the driveshaft which isn’t a fun experience. Z Speed designed and released a solid steel mount system that eliminates all of the factory failure points of the shifter design. I upgraded mine back in 2011 and it’s not been a single issue the entire time since. You won’t be able to repair the ripped rubber piece in the shifter plate, that’s one of the bits that is always breaking. Just go Z Speed and you’ll never have to deal with that ever again. A very satisfying feeling.
Also would recommend ditching the factory clutch fork and swapping it to the 350Z fork as it is a solid piece versus the stamped sheet steel design Nissan came up with over 30 years ago…more of that increased reliability that just goes and helps this model out as it’s known for not being a very reliable vehicle to own
Second that. Have ZSpeed and short throw with the bushings
I to love the idea of trying to make all the rotating mass lighter. Have you thought about changing out all the pulleys for lightweight? Seems low cost, would enjoy seeing the install
That’s a good idea, especially the crank pulley. Probably some good weight savings there. I’ll look into it!
@@noboltsleftbehind oh also I just find out you can get lightweight better performance harmonic dampers. Not sure if this engine uses one ? Don’t quote me but I think you could save 5lbs off rotational mass
Hopefully you replaced the old saggy trans mount.
I appreciate the update 👍
Are there any risks of supporting and lowering the transmission by the pan? It looks like most of the weight is supported on the transmission pan?
In this case I wasn't worried about doing damage to the transmission since I was throwing it away, but I'd say it's fine to lift it by the pan as long as you spread the weight out and you're careful not to dent it.
Unrelated I meant to ask in your previous video when you were upgrading your speakers and CD player how did you take off your door panels so easily? Did you already have some steps done already or did you learn a shortcut?
I think the only step I might not have shown was removing the bolt holding the top trim piece that's behind the small round cover on the outside of the door. There are also a few screws around the perimeter of the door panel, but otherwise it just popped right off.
Great stuff!!!
Where the bellhousing bolts the same length or did you need new ones?
I reused the auto transmission ones, the length seemed right
You should get a short throw shifter
I’m thinking about it, I wasn’t sure if it made the throw too short or not.
@@noboltsleftbehind the z1 short throw is perfect
Thanks for this video.
Would you mind telling me the dimensions for the 5 speed, especially the height of the bell housing? I am literally going to remove mine tomorrow. I made wheel cribs 14" high, but am concerned about having enough space. I will be using a Harbor Freight transmission jack and it sits 7 1/2" at its lowest. Thanks again.
I don’t have the transmission handy to take measurements but I can say my wheel cribs are 12” tall and I’m using probably the same transmission jack so it should be doable. You’ll have to get the transmission up on the jack while under the car, and extra set of hands definitely helps.
@@noboltsleftbehind
I'm removing mine because I'm in the process of swapping an LS3 in. They say it's easier to drop the transmission first, then remove the stock engine by itself. Though some people don't mind playing around with the engine & tranny bolted together. I'd rather not LOL!
@@eekay3646 that's awesome, that's the dream swap right there. I'm interested to see how that comes out. I'd say you're on the right track, the stock transmission came out pretty easily for me with those 12" cribs so you're in good shape if you have a bit more lift. Good luck!
Hi where do you connect the clutch saftey switch ?
I wired it to the big starter relay behind the front driver side wheel well liner.
Hey, I'm getting my late Grandpa's 1990 300ZX, do you know the offset for the tires to line up with the body properly? And any tips for things that should be looked at first? It's been garage kept and never driven in the winter, and only sometimes driven at all.
I know the stock twin turbo wheels I have fit pretty well, they’re a 16x7.5 with a 45mm offset in the front and a 16x8.5 with 35mm in the rear. I have 245s in the back, I feel like you could even fit just a little bigger if you wanted
Sounds like a pretty special car, I’d say other than the standard maintenance stuff like fluids, belts, timing belt, maybe check out your engine electrical connections for corrosion or cracked plastic clips. I had some trouble with mine that is simple to fix but will cause problems. Take a look at your u-joints and center driveshaft bearing too if you feel any vibrations.
Thanks for the info, greatly appreciate it. 🙏
what was the price range of all the parts in the video?
@@MiguelSanchez-pb4iy I actually did a full cost breakdown here: ruclips.net/video/M_pCWQi9o4s/видео.html
😂BRO WHERE DID YOU GET THE HYDRALIC HOSE
Concept Z Performance
Like the content
Thanks!
how tall ur ramp cribs thingy ?
They’re 12” tall
How long of a clutch hard line did you get?
I didn’t use any clutch hard line, just a single 68 inch braided hose directly from master to slave cylinder.
Well done! almost looks like you've done this before, lol.
I want to do the opposite, swap from manual to auto, if do you have all the parts, do you want to sell? Thanks
I don’t have everything but I still have some parts, are you local here to Southern California?
@@noboltsleftbehind I am in Phoenix
Which parts do you have?
@@erickrivera2056 dust shield, engine t- transmission brackets, driveshaft, and maybe some other odds and ends.
i have a auto trans in north carolina
Liked and subscribed. I am also doing a 300zx project build. Check it out when you get a chance.
Awesome man, will do. Good luck on the project.