Oh boy. Just bought a '94 300zx with 285k miles. I'm going to spend 2 full paychecks and do everything at once before I have to turn in my daily driver at the end of next month.
My 1st cousin has a TT 300zx and he always says that if you get one of these cars the 1st thing you should do is take the engine out of the car. Just easier to service everything at once.
The fact that I’ve had my z for roughly 2 years and almost all this stuff had to be done or is getting done right now because it’s either failing or failed and left me stranded is crazy lol. This video is more true than anything I’ve seen 😂
0:45 This applies to anything service wise. If it wasn't replaced in the last 20 years, or has record of it... it probably needs replacement. Also bushings should be done/covered at this point as well. Most subframe bushings are completely shot/leaking along with the diff bushings. You can use spacers for the subframe, but the other fluid bushings need to be burned out and replaced. The rear end on mine was so shot the tires were lifting just taking a normal corner and making it break out under light throttle. My bearings/hubs were also completely gone causing excessive tire wear. You didn't cover brakes and that should be at the same time as the suspension or soon after. Just fluid changing alone can breathe new life into the brake system. 2:28 or it's a napanator and failing. It's important that you mention to ONLY use an oem alternator unless they are having it professionally rebuilt, as those napa/auto/oreily nators are only as good as their warranty... Ya it's lifetime, but you're going to be changing it every 1-6 months for life(also oreilys only allows 4 warranties before requiring another purchase). Professionally rebuilt is the way to go, but finding a shop local that does it right and not just using cheap components is hard, as having more copper windings will increase amp capacity quite a bit. 4:40 Cowls are now NLA as of last year. There are repros being made, but if the existing is still there any "mostly" in one piece it can be repaired with a fiberglass kit, sanded, painted, cleared and it'll be good to go another twenty years. Else this is a really expensive and annoying part to replace. 5:10 if the low pressure lines need replacing you better believe the high pressure lines need it too. Also the crush washers on the rack, seals and possibly the high pressure sensor(erratic jerking and stiff steering will indicate this). Check everything. I've yet to see one that didn't have a leaking rack or low pressure line. 6:25 The grounding mod should be performed as well to prevent further premature failure. From the factory there will ALWAYS be power being sent to the injectors even when the car is off, and this can lead to electrolysis and corrosion of the coils. Performing the ground mod will prevent voltage from being sent to the injectors when the ignition is off. It's very simple to do any everyone can do it just referencing the guide. 7:20 As with everything it's important to torque the bolts to spec when reinstalling, but it is paramount this is done with the valve covers. If you over torque the covers doing it free hand and not using a torque wrench it will BREAK the cover and you'll have to replace it. These are /fragile/ and somewhat hard to find if you break one. This can set you back days/weeks if you snap one by accident. It's also important this is done if you use the dress up bolt kit because it applied /more/ torque to the covers and are known to break it easily. Anyone doing this themselves should reference the guide on bolt order and torque specs. Also replace the half moons in the back with aluminum plugs and be done with ever changing the rubber ones again. These sometimes are so hard and cemented in it required a mallet to knock them out. 8:50 Again OEM parts here is important to mention. Timken is now NLA as of two years ago. Timken was the OEM provider of the wheel bearings, and timing pulleys. There ARE OE equivalent pulleys now, but there are also cheap ones that can fail early. ALWAYS replace the tensioner with an OEM unit and DO NOT UNWIND TOO QUICKLY. The belts are all about the same now, so that's at least one thing that can be cheaped out on. Water pump should always be OEM. It's 150 now for an OEM unit(250+ ten years ago) and roughly the same price as aftermarket/napa/auto. The major difference is the bearing quality, seal and impeller design on the aftermarket ones. Aftermarket pumps have a 50% failure rate from what I've seen and it's almost always the bearings failing leading to other issues. The pump studs should also be replaced at this point, and fan clutch checked if it needs service/replacement. I would add to your guide the EFI harness... as MOST are completely done. Hard, brittle, broken and failing in multiple areas. A shorting harness can cause multiple issues and lead you to think something else had failed when it hasn't. Also to check your grounds, clean, replace given many are corroded and not getting a good connection either. Dirty grounds can cause trouble starting, running and other erratic electrical issues. Other things. PCV Valves, PCV lines, EGR delete where applicable, new vacuum lines, coolant line bypass/delete. Too many small things to list, but leaking vacuum lines can cause multiple issues along with clogged PCV valves.
A lot of great info! I have been out of the scene for years but I'm pretty sure there was even a factory service bulletin about grounding the injectors the way they were in later years.
had an 89 z32 for just under 5 years now, this was a great video. Like that you talked about actual issues and not surface level things like rust, or seat wear in the corner, hicas, oil change, etc other things like ptu, engine harness, and anything rubber in general create alot of issues if you take care of it, its a great car!
@@skylinefever isn't that how like all cars work though? a lot of the 2022 models are made in 2021 and so on. I mean you see car ads for next years model before it is that year.
@@realyopikechannel In Japan, your car is noted by the month and year it was built. Marketing works differently over there. In the USA, there were plenty of 1990 cars made in 1989.
Also, if you want one, it may be a good time to bid on a Z32 Fairlady TT. Shortly after the 300ZXTT was cancelled, Japan got minor improvements to the Z32 Fairlady TT. I do not know what those improvements were. Over time, my passion went away from the 300ZXTT and into other cars.
The irony is, the Z32 is the first flagship JDM sports car from the 90's, but people don't revere it as much as the FD3S or MKIV. The latter two are more revered because of the Fast & Furious franchise, and also because they were the last two (in that particular order FD, and finally MKIV before the final nail to the coffin was driven into 90's JDM glory) to arrive in the U.S. before the Japanese yen got too high and they became $50,000 cars (MSRP) in the latter 90's. Yes, they were that expensive in the late 90's, brand new from the dealers. Luckily, I bought two Z32s within the last 3 years, a twin turbo one and NA, both 2 + 0. But the NA one will receive an LS3 swap with LOJ's kit. The TT one will be preserved to nearly stock configuration. I don't believe in "over accessorizing" i.e. rice or "drift missiling" them out. It makes them look cheap and junky when in reality, a Z32 is equivalent to today's M3/4. The Z33, Z34, and now "Z35's" aren't. But the Z32 was an unprecedented rise in Nissan Z car history.
What amazes me is how close the Z32 performs when compared to the MKIV Supra. Given the price difference, you'd think the cars were in a completely different league. Sure, the MKIV Supra outperforms it, but not what the price would suggest.
Are you serious??? Lmfao, the s13/14 is the flagship of 90s jdm cars and it had absolutely nothing to do with F&F movies. I was actually pissed they used a s14 as a drag car in the 1st movie. I built a s13 from the ground up with a redtop sr and owned a s14 but never built the motor. I currently own a z32 shell that I am building just because I like the car, it is not better than the Supra or FD let alone FC rx7 either lol. The z32 was looked over for a reason. The other cars available where just better.
@@eekay3646 This is what I mean with collector value. I had this thought several years ago, when a 300ZXTT could be bought used for 10,000, and a Supra MKIV TT was closer to 40,000. Now I don't even want to think about what they cost. Yet when those cars were new, a 300ZXTT was closer to 40,000, and a Supra MKIV TT might have been 50,000.
Is there any suggested place near Tampa Florida that works or specialise is these beautiful cars. I have a 1993 300zx na my self. With only 90k miles. I have changed all my head gasket a fuel injectors all the hoses and the timing build as well as the alternator. And after all this been done I’m having an issue with the car not staying on. I was told it might be the wire harness because of the age of the car. Please any suggestions??
I have a question for you. I want to do the 120k service kit. My water pump fan has a wobble. Valve covers leaking, camshaft half moons too, alternator probably weak and all that. But I'm afraid of doing the timing and tps adjustments myself since it'd be my first time with it and this car is still new to me. might have a specialist help with the timing parts. So if I went ahead and did the plenum pull, deletes, new injectors, new spark plugs, valve cover gaskets and all the other I can myself to save money, then put it back together for them to finish, Would it be pointless cause they'd have to remove some of it anyways to do the rest of the service or in case they need to inspect its internals themselves. idk, what are your thoughts? Still just saving up for the parts currently
In my opinion if I were you, I’d just wait to do it all at once and wait till you accumulate all the parts as you can over time. If it’s not your daily driver it will be easy to have the patience and you’ll be glad you done it all once it’s complete and ready to hit the road again.
Timing belt can be intimidating, I understand that. If you are going to pull the intake manifold and tackle that project and have someone else do the 120k service, go for it. The 120k service dose NOT require the intake manifold to be pulled to complete, so those are 2 separate jobs. Make sure you have all the parts before you start. best of luck!
boost it so violently on a chipped stock ecu that 4 out of the 6 cylinders yeet themselves into oblivion also weld diff remove spring from handbrake button = profit with driftyboiii
Thanks for the info, good stuff. I haven't noticed prices of parts to be that outrageous, they are on par with my vettes/goat the problem I have is local availability. The ONLY way to get parts for these here in Tampa Bay Florida are on-line vendors and they are ALWAYS 4-10 days out, maybe its different in other parts of the country. Other than this I don't have any real complaints about my little Jap Go-Kart. :)
i have a sr20det i just upgraded the turbo and keep getting boost leaks from ruptured vacuum lines,any recomendation on what to use for reliability? i was considering getting turbosmart scilicone hoses or just using braided rubber hoses but not sure what i want to do yet
I’ve gone through my whole 300zx since January and man are they a handfill! Definitely not cheap to own but soo rewarding
Do you have the one piece driveshaft on ur 2+2?
Oh boy.
Just bought a '94 300zx with 285k miles. I'm going to spend 2 full paychecks and do everything at once before I have to turn in my daily driver at the end of next month.
How's it going? 6 month later update??
@@gamingwarrior8923 She's been great. Heater doesn't work so well, so on colder days I'm taking the old Jeep Wagoneer. Other than that I'm loving it.
My 1st cousin has a TT 300zx and he always says that if you get one of these cars the 1st thing you should do is take the engine out of the car. Just easier to service everything at once.
The fact that I’ve had my z for roughly 2 years and almost all this stuff had to be done or is getting done right now because it’s either failing or failed and left me stranded is crazy lol. This video is more true than anything I’ve seen 😂
I'm less than 3 minutes in and I've already said "Yep, Fuel Pump and Alternator will getcha..."
0:45 This applies to anything service wise. If it wasn't replaced in the last 20 years, or has record of it... it probably needs replacement. Also bushings should be done/covered at this point as well. Most subframe bushings are completely shot/leaking along with the diff bushings. You can use spacers for the subframe, but the other fluid bushings need to be burned out and replaced. The rear end on mine was so shot the tires were lifting just taking a normal corner and making it break out under light throttle. My bearings/hubs were also completely gone causing excessive tire wear.
You didn't cover brakes and that should be at the same time as the suspension or soon after. Just fluid changing alone can breathe new life into the brake system.
2:28 or it's a napanator and failing. It's important that you mention to ONLY use an oem alternator unless they are having it professionally rebuilt, as those napa/auto/oreily nators are only as good as their warranty... Ya it's lifetime, but you're going to be changing it every 1-6 months for life(also oreilys only allows 4 warranties before requiring another purchase). Professionally rebuilt is the way to go, but finding a shop local that does it right and not just using cheap components is hard, as having more copper windings will increase amp capacity quite a bit.
4:40 Cowls are now NLA as of last year. There are repros being made, but if the existing is still there any "mostly" in one piece it can be repaired with a fiberglass kit, sanded, painted, cleared and it'll be good to go another twenty years. Else this is a really expensive and annoying part to replace.
5:10 if the low pressure lines need replacing you better believe the high pressure lines need it too. Also the crush washers on the rack, seals and possibly the high pressure sensor(erratic jerking and stiff steering will indicate this). Check everything. I've yet to see one that didn't have a leaking rack or low pressure line.
6:25 The grounding mod should be performed as well to prevent further premature failure. From the factory there will ALWAYS be power being sent to the injectors even when the car is off, and this can lead to electrolysis and corrosion of the coils. Performing the ground mod will prevent voltage from being sent to the injectors when the ignition is off. It's very simple to do any everyone can do it just referencing the guide.
7:20 As with everything it's important to torque the bolts to spec when reinstalling, but it is paramount this is done with the valve covers. If you over torque the covers doing it free hand and not using a torque wrench it will BREAK the cover and you'll have to replace it. These are /fragile/ and somewhat hard to find if you break one. This can set you back days/weeks if you snap one by accident. It's also important this is done if you use the dress up bolt kit because it applied /more/ torque to the covers and are known to break it easily. Anyone doing this themselves should reference the guide on bolt order and torque specs.
Also replace the half moons in the back with aluminum plugs and be done with ever changing the rubber ones again. These sometimes are so hard and cemented in it required a mallet to knock them out.
8:50 Again OEM parts here is important to mention. Timken is now NLA as of two years ago. Timken was the OEM provider of the wheel bearings, and timing pulleys. There ARE OE equivalent pulleys now, but there are also cheap ones that can fail early. ALWAYS replace the tensioner with an OEM unit and DO NOT UNWIND TOO QUICKLY. The belts are all about the same now, so that's at least one thing that can be cheaped out on.
Water pump should always be OEM. It's 150 now for an OEM unit(250+ ten years ago) and roughly the same price as aftermarket/napa/auto. The major difference is the bearing quality, seal and impeller design on the aftermarket ones. Aftermarket pumps have a 50% failure rate from what I've seen and it's almost always the bearings failing leading to other issues. The pump studs should also be replaced at this point, and fan clutch checked if it needs service/replacement.
I would add to your guide the EFI harness... as MOST are completely done. Hard, brittle, broken and failing in multiple areas. A shorting harness can cause multiple issues and lead you to think something else had failed when it hasn't. Also to check your grounds, clean, replace given many are corroded and not getting a good connection either. Dirty grounds can cause trouble starting, running and other erratic electrical issues.
Other things. PCV Valves, PCV lines, EGR delete where applicable, new vacuum lines, coolant line bypass/delete. Too many small things to list, but leaking vacuum lines can cause multiple issues along with clogged PCV valves.
Awesome, Thanks Fake Jeep!
A lot of great info! I have been out of the scene for years but I'm pretty sure there was even a factory service bulletin about grounding the injectors the way they were in later years.
had an 89 z32 for just under 5 years now, this was a great video.
Like that you talked about actual issues and not surface level things like rust, or seat wear in the corner, hicas, oil change, etc
other things like ptu, engine harness, and anything rubber in general create alot of issues if you take care of it, its a great car!
Thanks Marshall!!
89 z32???
@@gavinklausner4696 I guess his 1990 was built in 1989?
Or perhaps he has a JDM model, where they are labeled by month and year.
@@skylinefever isn't that how like all cars work though? a lot of the 2022 models are made in 2021 and so on. I mean you see car ads for next years model before it is that year.
@@realyopikechannel In Japan, your car is noted by the month and year it was built. Marketing works differently over there.
In the USA, there were plenty of 1990 cars made in 1989.
Very helpful. I don’t know much about working on cars and this car is pretty intimidating in the engine bay. I own a z32 TT
Finally someone who knows the way of the Z owner
Also, if you want one, it may be a good time to bid on a Z32 Fairlady TT. Shortly after the 300ZXTT was cancelled, Japan got minor improvements to the Z32 Fairlady TT.
I do not know what those improvements were. Over time, my passion went away from the 300ZXTT and into other cars.
The irony is, the Z32 is the first flagship JDM sports car from the 90's, but people don't revere it as much as the FD3S or MKIV. The latter two are more revered because of the Fast & Furious franchise, and also because they were the last two (in that particular order FD, and finally MKIV before the final nail to the coffin was driven into 90's JDM glory) to arrive in the U.S. before the Japanese yen got too high and they became $50,000 cars (MSRP) in the latter 90's. Yes, they were that expensive in the late 90's, brand new from the dealers.
Luckily, I bought two Z32s within the last 3 years, a twin turbo one and NA, both 2 + 0. But the NA one will receive an LS3 swap with LOJ's kit. The TT one will be preserved to nearly stock configuration. I don't believe in "over accessorizing" i.e. rice or "drift missiling" them out. It makes them look cheap and junky when in reality, a Z32 is equivalent to today's M3/4. The Z33, Z34, and now "Z35's" aren't. But the Z32 was an unprecedented rise in Nissan Z car history.
What amazes me is how close the Z32 performs when compared to the MKIV Supra. Given the price difference, you'd think the cars were in a completely different league. Sure, the MKIV Supra outperforms it, but not what the price would suggest.
L on the ricer, im making mine full body kitted with f40 wing and gold wheels (i have a dark green one)
If you dont mind me asking what did you pay hard to get a twin turbo under 10k now
Are you serious??? Lmfao, the s13/14 is the flagship of 90s jdm cars and it had absolutely nothing to do with F&F movies. I was actually pissed they used a s14 as a drag car in the 1st movie. I built a s13 from the ground up with a redtop sr and owned a s14 but never built the motor. I currently own a z32 shell that I am building just because I like the car, it is not better than the Supra or FD let alone FC rx7 either lol. The z32 was looked over for a reason. The other cars available where just better.
@@eekay3646 This is what I mean with collector value.
I had this thought several years ago, when a 300ZXTT could be bought used for 10,000, and a Supra MKIV TT was closer to 40,000. Now I don't even want to think about what they cost.
Yet when those cars were new, a 300ZXTT was closer to 40,000, and a Supra MKIV TT might have been 50,000.
my 300zx had the original cowl . I imported it from Japan. Unfortunately the animals working at the ports in my country ruined it...
Doorman hatch struts rock
My dude where are you finding twin turbos for $10k? Bad ones are like $15k
I have car for sale in japan are you interested
I bought one 2 weeks ago for $8500.
@@dorseyherring5751how has it held up
My iacv may of just went bad or just got clogged lol my bushings are still bad it runs pretty good though
i wish i could find a TT for under 10k now :(
for owning a 400whp TT... I would swap a LS if I ever had to pull another engine out.
Is there any suggested place near Tampa Florida that works or specialise is these beautiful cars. I have a 1993 300zx na my self. With only 90k miles. I have changed all my head gasket a fuel injectors all the hoses and the timing build as well as the alternator. And after all this been done I’m having an issue with the car not staying on. I was told it might be the wire harness because of the age of the car. Please any suggestions??
very nice Z dude! what your set up rims? thanks
Z32 4life!!!
I have a question for you. I want to do the 120k service kit. My water pump fan has a wobble. Valve covers leaking, camshaft half moons too, alternator probably weak and all that. But I'm afraid of doing the timing and tps adjustments myself since it'd be my first time with it and this car is still new to me. might have a specialist help with the timing parts.
So if I went ahead and did the plenum pull, deletes, new injectors, new spark plugs, valve cover gaskets and all the other I can myself to save money, then put it back together for them to finish,
Would it be pointless cause they'd have to remove some of it anyways to do the rest of the service or in case they need to inspect its internals themselves. idk, what are your thoughts? Still just saving up for the parts currently
In my opinion if I were you, I’d just wait to do it all at once and wait till you accumulate all the parts as you can over time. If it’s not your daily driver it will be easy to have the patience and you’ll be glad you done it all once it’s complete and ready to hit the road again.
Timing belt can be intimidating, I understand that. If you are going to pull the intake manifold and tackle that project and have someone else do the 120k service, go for it. The 120k service dose NOT require the intake manifold to be pulled to complete, so those are 2 separate jobs. Make sure you have all the parts before you start. best of luck!
what wheels are those?
What’s a good website for me to go to find full door part for my 300zx
but it's just a theory A BUILD THEORY!
Can you tell me the wheels size ? I have one and I want to put 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5rear
Nice ride
Thanks Josh!
More like 15 to 20k
Seriously those z32s TT are pricy. That's why I got an Na
boost it so violently on a chipped stock ecu that 4 out of the 6 cylinders yeet themselves into oblivion also weld diff remove spring from handbrake button = profit with driftyboiii
the white z was driving with no oil psi
Thanks for the info, good stuff. I haven't noticed prices of parts to be that outrageous, they are on par with my vettes/goat the problem I have is local availability. The ONLY way to get parts for these here in Tampa Bay Florida are on-line vendors and they are ALWAYS 4-10 days out, maybe its different in other parts of the country. Other than this I don't have any real complaints about my little Jap Go-Kart. :)
I'm just hoping to find the title to the one I stripped down, so I can sell it to the junkyard for $160 scrap price I was quoted.
i have a sr20det i just upgraded the turbo and keep getting boost leaks from ruptured vacuum lines,any recomendation on what to use for reliability? i was considering getting turbosmart scilicone hoses or just using braided rubber hoses but not sure what i want to do yet
I’m looking for a mechanic. One that can change out all of these that is listed.
If you let your local parts store change your battery for free, they will break your cowl panel for sure
😝 100%!
10.000$ for 300zx where? They go for 30.000 euros in Germany now
Pull the damn cowl off!