It is. I use it all the time. The tilt is used a lot with dirt engaging implements, and the top is too, but the top also comes in handy when loading the trailer. I can suck the implement close to the tractor and get more clearance for loading/unloading.
Thanks for posting this one! I'm in the market for this as we speak. Did you pick up at local dealer or online like Messicks? Can you post which parts you ordered? Worried now after reading below about the leaking issue. Did you end up solving this?
I’m not sure I would recommend the kit. I have since replaced the top link with one that has pilot operated check valves and will be doing the same for the side link. If these had check valves I’d definitely recommend them. All valves leak down. Some just more than others. I explain it in a tractor basics video.
Really like mine, although they had to replace 2 valves as my tilt kept leaking down. I guess they’re known for bad valves. Hopefully yours doesn’t drift every time you shut off the key or while running.
@@JaredsShop They put new valves in but I’m not so sure that it holds very well. I’ve only had it back a week and have been so busy I haven’t had a chance to mess with it much but honestly I think it’s still drifting a little bit. They had my tractor for a month replacing it last time and I really hate paying a payment and not being able to use it. They said that they’re not meant to hold implements up, they’re just meant to adjust them. Just a way to get out of fixing them properly as many of the parts are bad. I guess the valve body is flat and not tapered so it doesn’t hold pressure well. Sounds like a bad design. Maybe a check valve would help.
@@Dirtyd-dd7xy They’re partially correct. A valve body like this will always leak by as it does not utilize seals. It is a machined spool that is precision ground to a very tight tolerance. If it had zero tolerance to where it wouldn’t leak then it wouldn’t move as it would be stuck. The issue is how bad does it leak. If the tolerance is too much then it will leak by fast. They have a spec where they gauge the distance it drops over a certain amount of time with a certain amount of weight on it. It will never 100% hold weight without a check valve. I am looking at installing a check valve but it’s difficult because there is not much room between the cylinder ports. I’m not sure if I’ll go with a single one just to help with gravity or if I’ll install a dual pilot check valve and just have it mid-hose.
I have that same kit installed on a L 4060 with a QH 15 quick hitch. I noticed that when I have the top cylinder fully retracted that the top of the quick hitch hits the cylinder and could cause damage so you might want to check that. I’m going to cut the top corners of the quick hitch at a 45° angle to eliminate the contact. Good video thank you.
Thank you. Yes, I had the same issue as well. The cylinder diameter is wider than the ears of the hitch. I have since replaced the cylinder with one that has pilot operated check valves and do not have that issue.
@@JaredsShop Yes sir it was part of the top and tilt kit it’s listed in the contents but there’s no explanation that I could find anywhere to tell me what to do with them, I wish I could send you a picture of it.
Enjoy your videos. I have a new L6060 that I should get to pick up this week and will be install the rear remotes and 3rd function/ quick coupler myself in the coming weeks. I sprung for the hydraulic top link but no tilt. I don’t think I’d use tilt much
Thanks so much!! Let me know if there’s anything in particular you’d like to see in a video. Let me know what you think of the tractor when you get it. I’m sure you’ll love it. The L6060 is a beast. I may add one in the future. I’d love to have one setup with a mid PTO, front hitch, and a front flail. For tilt, it depends on if you do much ground work. If you use a box blade, grader scraper, rear blade, or rake, the tilt can be useful. If you don’t do that much it may not be worth it. I do a lot of final grading, yard leveling, driveway repair, etc. so I often have to change the angle on the fly.
@@JaredsShop I’m moving up from a L3540 so I know I’ll love it as I’m used to the grand L series. Had lots of people ask why I didn’t look at other brands and I told them I was sold on the Hst+ transmission. I was wanting more pto horsepower and figured go big or go home. I do more mowing with mine than anything. Running a 6ft cutter I’d find myself in low range /turtle on the hst+ more than I wanted . I do very little grading work. Although I plan to tear up my yard this next spring and level / reseed since I bought a LandPride Aps1572 seeder this last summer for food plots.
@@braxtonwiggins6576 Very nice. Then yes, you know what you’re getting into. I try to tell everyone the HST+ alone is worth jumping into the Grand L. So am I understanding you that you got hydraulic levers too? I have. 72” woods seeder I purchased almost 2 years ago. I seed some yards with it. Also purchased a harley rake this past spring.
@@JaredsShop yes I got three rear remotes, hydraulic top link, and the third function with the hydraulic levers, air ride seat and a few other odds and ends. Wound up with $8k worth of extras on top of the tractor and loader. They sure add up fast. I opted to install all the hydraulics myself to save labor as they assured me it wouldn’t mess with my warranty and I had previous experience on the L3540.
@@braxtonwiggins6576 Yes they do add up fast. I absolutely LOVE my hydraulic levers. They were a pricey option but I think they’re worth it I have 4 buckets, forks, plow, snow pusher, grapple, and hydraulic auger. I change front attachments often and not having to leave the cab for anything other than hydraulics is awesome.
Yes it will but I have since changed the top link to one with pilot operated check valves. Here’s a link to it. amzn.to/3SuhkwJ I haven’t purchased a side link with check valves yet, but hope to soon.
@@JaredsShop good call on the check valve ! Would love to see an updated video , I should be getting my grand l3560 in the next week or two , my dealership is building it as we speak . Went with la805 loader with third function , 64” front snowblower mid pto, and a 72” box grader , led head lights, led front and back work lights , heated mirrors , and an air ride seat (also the radio option because why not right) . I would be very interested in the top and tilt kit ! Thanks again for the awesome content
@@haus05 Thanks! I’ll try to get another video up soon. I have a ton of stuff recorded but find it hard to set aside time to edit and post. There’s just never enough time in the day. Sounds like an awesome build. I’d like to have mid PTO and the flail. I don’t get enough snow to justify a blower. Let me know how you like the air ride seat. I may add it in the future.
Possibly, but it might be a long. The best thing to do is to measure your current mechanical links. Also, I’m not sure I’d recommend this kit as I’m not satisfied they don’t have pilot operated check valves. Here’s a video on measuring everything and where I give dimensions for the pieces in this kit. Tractor Basics - How To Measure For A Top And Tilt Cylinder ruclips.net/video/lEk2k9FIFzA/видео.html
Hmm... Your Kubota brand Top n Tilt sure looks different than the one the Kubota dealer here put on my new 2650 during prep for delivery a few years ago. I've had more than a reasonable share of problems with the 2 spool valve; the more I look at mine, I think it's not a Kubota kit, but "something else". This is the third new Kubota I purchased from this dealer, a 2550, a 4350, and this one, but my sense is they sell and deliver the product, and move on. I've never even had a follow-up after the sale, no courtesy call, nothing. It also now makes me wonder if they cut corners where they can, for the ever-loving profit margin, and cobble together parts to create a 'version' of Top n Tilt. Time to go have an earnest discussion with them... Thanks for the clear, detailed video, and what seems like a heads up moment.
This kit may be a bit large for your tractor. They’re meant for a Grand L or Mx. I’m not sure if Kubota offers a kit for the 2650, I’ll have to look. Having the right dealer definitely makes all of the difference in the world. Mine is excellent.
Did you ever have clearance issues with those hydraulic inlets/outlet being side mounted that side linkage top bolt looks awfully close to hitting top link?
No. I have not had any clearance issues. I have since replaced the top link with one from AMA that has a pilot operated check valve. It does push the hoses into the SMV sign though. I need to put some 45 fittings on it.
L8388A but I have since replaced my top link with one that has pilot operated check valves. I’d recommend going that route instead. Here’s the one I purchased. amzn.to/3zIEZ5w
@@JaredsShop Hi Jared. First off, thanks for the videos, the one about installing rear remotes was very helpful when I did mine. I am in the process of purhcasing this kit (L8388A) for my L4060LE. Why did you choose to replace the top link with the pilot operated check valves? My gut is telling me that I should do the same thing.... I will have to disconnect one of the two cylinders when I use my Stump Grinder, I am afraid that the disconnected cylinder will drift. Is that kind of why you choose to replace the top link with the pilot operated check cylinder?
@@bettscr I got tired of the drift and wanted the cylinder to stay where I put it. The cylinder shouldn’t drift when disconnected. It usually drifts because of the valves. The spool valves don’t have rubber seals so they will always let some fluid by.
Excellent! Your video for the rear remotes was like gold for me. I already have the top-n-tilt kit to add so this was perfect timing. Thank you!
Awesome! You’ll love it. It is so useful. You’ll have to let me know what you think when you get it installed.
Wow. That looks super handy!
It is. I use it all the time. The tilt is used a lot with dirt engaging implements, and the top is too, but the top also comes in handy when loading the trailer. I can suck the implement close to the tractor and get more clearance for loading/unloading.
Thanks for posting this one! I'm in the market for this as we speak. Did you pick up at local dealer or online like Messicks? Can you post which parts you ordered? Worried now after reading below about the leaking issue. Did you end up solving this?
I’m not sure I would recommend the kit. I have since replaced the top link with one that has pilot operated check valves and will be doing the same for the side link. If these had check valves I’d definitely recommend them.
All valves leak down. Some just more than others. I explain it in a tractor basics video.
@@JaredsShop Recommendation on what you'd do instead?
@@flightcrazed7790
I like this top link. It’s what I ended up buying. I haven’t grabbed a side link yet.
amzn.to/3tbhFJU
Really like mine, although they had to replace 2 valves as my tilt kept leaking down. I guess they’re known for bad valves. Hopefully yours doesn’t drift every time you shut off the key or while running.
Unfortunately, mine does. Did the new valve solve the issue? I need to have the bleed-off timed and see if it falls within warranty specs.
@@JaredsShop They put new valves in but I’m not so sure that it holds very well. I’ve only had it back a week and have been so busy I haven’t had a chance to mess with it much but honestly I think it’s still drifting a little bit. They had my tractor for a month replacing it last time and I really hate paying a payment and not being able to use it. They said that they’re not meant to hold implements up, they’re just meant to adjust them. Just a way to get out of fixing them properly as many of the parts are bad. I guess the valve body is flat and not tapered so it doesn’t hold pressure well. Sounds like a bad design. Maybe a check valve would help.
@@Dirtyd-dd7xy
They’re partially correct. A valve body like this will always leak by as it does not utilize seals. It is a machined spool that is precision ground to a very tight tolerance. If it had zero tolerance to where it wouldn’t leak then it wouldn’t move as it would be stuck. The issue is how bad does it leak. If the tolerance is too much then it will leak by fast. They have a spec where they gauge the distance it drops over a certain amount of time with a certain amount of weight on it. It will never 100% hold weight without a check valve.
I am looking at installing a check valve but it’s difficult because there is not much room between the cylinder ports. I’m not sure if I’ll go with a single one just to help with gravity or if I’ll install a dual pilot check valve and just have it mid-hose.
I have that same kit installed on a L 4060 with a QH 15 quick hitch. I noticed that when I have the top cylinder fully retracted that the top of the quick hitch hits the cylinder and could cause damage so you might want to check that. I’m going to cut the top corners of the quick hitch at a 45° angle to eliminate the contact. Good video thank you.
Thank you. Yes, I had the same issue as well. The cylinder diameter is wider than the ears of the hitch. I have since replaced the cylinder with one that has pilot operated check valves and do not have that issue.
@@JaredsShop I could not figure out the purpose of the two grade 5 bolts with locking nuts. Did you figure that one out? Thank you
@@rccodara630
What did they come with? The top and tilt?
@@JaredsShop Yes sir it was part of the top and tilt kit it’s listed in the contents but there’s no explanation that I could find anywhere to tell me what to do with them, I wish I could send you a picture of it.
@@rccodara630
I’ll have to look at the manual again. I don’t remember getting them with mine.
Does thrice top, draw, and quick hitch come as a kit altogether? If so, send me a link, thank you
Top, tilt, and quick hitch does not come in a kit.
Here’s the top link I purchased.
amzn.to/43JDTlb
Enjoy your videos. I have a new L6060 that I should get to pick up this week and will be install the rear remotes and 3rd function/ quick coupler myself in the coming weeks. I sprung for the hydraulic top link but no tilt. I don’t think I’d use tilt much
Thanks so much!! Let me know if there’s anything in particular you’d like to see in a video.
Let me know what you think of the tractor when you get it. I’m sure you’ll love it. The L6060 is a beast. I may add one in the future. I’d love to have one setup with a mid PTO, front hitch, and a front flail.
For tilt, it depends on if you do much ground work. If you use a box blade, grader scraper, rear blade, or rake, the tilt can be useful. If you don’t do that much it may not be worth it. I do a lot of final grading, yard leveling, driveway repair, etc. so I often have to change the angle on the fly.
@@JaredsShop I’m moving up from a L3540 so I know I’ll love it as I’m used to the grand L series. Had lots of people ask why I didn’t look at other brands and I told them I was sold on the Hst+ transmission. I was wanting more pto horsepower and figured go big or go home. I do more mowing with mine than anything. Running a 6ft cutter I’d find myself in low range /turtle on the hst+ more than I wanted . I do very little grading work. Although I plan to tear up my yard this next spring and level / reseed since I bought a LandPride Aps1572 seeder this last summer for food plots.
@@braxtonwiggins6576
Very nice. Then yes, you know what you’re getting into. I try to tell everyone the HST+ alone is worth jumping into the Grand L.
So am I understanding you that you got hydraulic levers too?
I have. 72” woods seeder I purchased almost 2 years ago. I seed some yards with it. Also purchased a harley rake this past spring.
@@JaredsShop yes I got three rear remotes, hydraulic top link, and the third function with the hydraulic levers, air ride seat and a few other odds and ends. Wound up with $8k worth of extras on top of the tractor and loader. They sure add up fast. I opted to install all the hydraulics myself to save labor as they assured me it wouldn’t mess with my warranty and I had previous experience on the L3540.
@@braxtonwiggins6576
Yes they do add up fast. I absolutely LOVE my hydraulic levers. They were a pricey option but I think they’re worth it I have 4 buckets, forks, plow, snow pusher, grapple, and hydraulic auger. I change front attachments often and not having to leave the cab for anything other than hydraulics is awesome.
Will this work on a l3901 or do you happen to know a kit number? I’m not having any luck finding anything.
Yes it will but I have since changed the top link to one with pilot operated check valves. Here’s a link to it.
amzn.to/3SuhkwJ
I haven’t purchased a side link with check valves yet, but hope to soon.
Thanks for the info! Curious did that cylinder work out and which one you went with for the tilt?@@JaredsShop
what was the price point ? also to fix any leaks maybe try some teflon tape on the fitting threads and then dope the tape!
It was under $900 but I’ve since replaced the top link with one that has dual pilot operated check valve.
Yes, I use Teflon tape on the NTP fitting.
@@JaredsShop good call on the check valve ! Would love to see an updated video , I should be getting my grand l3560 in the next week or two , my dealership is building it as we speak . Went with la805 loader with third function , 64” front snowblower mid pto, and a 72” box grader , led head lights, led front and back work lights , heated mirrors , and an air ride seat (also the radio option because why not right) . I would be very interested in the top and tilt kit ! Thanks again for the awesome content
@@haus05
Thanks! I’ll try to get another video up soon. I have a ton of stuff recorded but find it hard to set aside time to edit and post. There’s just never enough time in the day.
Sounds like an awesome build. I’d like to have mid PTO and the flail. I don’t get enough snow to justify a blower. Let me know how you like the air ride seat. I may add it in the future.
Jared will this top and tilt kit fit a B2650 cab tractor?
Possibly, but it might be a long. The best thing to do is to measure your current mechanical links. Also, I’m not sure I’d recommend this kit as I’m not satisfied they don’t have pilot operated check valves.
Here’s a video on measuring everything and where I give dimensions for the pieces in this kit.
Tractor Basics - How To Measure For A Top And Tilt Cylinder
ruclips.net/video/lEk2k9FIFzA/видео.html
Hmm... Your Kubota brand Top n Tilt sure looks different than the one the Kubota dealer here put on my new 2650 during prep for delivery a few years ago. I've had more than a reasonable share of problems with the 2 spool valve; the more I look at mine, I think it's not a Kubota kit, but "something else". This is the third new Kubota I purchased from this dealer, a 2550, a 4350, and this one, but my sense is they sell and deliver the product, and move on. I've never even had a follow-up after the sale, no courtesy call, nothing. It also now makes me wonder if they cut corners where they can, for the ever-loving profit margin, and cobble together parts to create a 'version' of Top n Tilt.
Time to go have an earnest discussion with them... Thanks for the clear, detailed video, and what seems like a heads up moment.
This kit may be a bit large for your tractor. They’re meant for a Grand L or Mx. I’m not sure if Kubota offers a kit for the 2650, I’ll have to look.
Having the right dealer definitely makes all of the difference in the world. Mine is excellent.
Did you ever have clearance issues with those hydraulic inlets/outlet being side mounted that side linkage top bolt looks awfully close to hitting top link?
No. I have not had any clearance issues.
I have since replaced the top link with one from AMA that has a pilot operated check valve. It does push the hoses into the SMV sign though. I need to put some 45 fittings on it.
Do you make this setup for a Kioti CK2610SE?
I’m sorry, I don’t manufacture kits. I was only showing the kit I installed on my tractor.
Do you have the kit number
L8388A but I have since replaced my top link with one that has pilot operated check valves. I’d recommend going that route instead. Here’s the one I purchased.
amzn.to/3zIEZ5w
@@JaredsShop Hi Jared. First off, thanks for the videos, the one about installing rear remotes was very helpful when I did mine. I am in the process of purhcasing this kit (L8388A) for my L4060LE. Why did you choose to replace the top link with the pilot operated check valves? My gut is telling me that I should do the same thing.... I will have to disconnect one of the two cylinders when I use my Stump Grinder, I am afraid that the disconnected cylinder will drift. Is that kind of why you choose to replace the top link with the pilot operated check cylinder?
@@bettscr
I got tired of the drift and wanted the cylinder to stay where I put it.
The cylinder shouldn’t drift when disconnected. It usually drifts because of the valves. The spool valves don’t have rubber seals so they will always let some fluid by.