An important part detail is missing. T Once the plastic spacers are removed, a plastic rod remains in place and the hinge pins can slide with it in place. To help with older hatches, spray all the hinge points with a thin lubricant. This will help immensely to slide the pins.
Be prepared to replace the hinge pin and associated parts. And the screws and bars holding the frame halves together. Here is why: The little sliding collars that release the hinge may not retract. If they don't, there is not a good nondestructive way to force them to retract. The screws and bars that hold the frame halves together will likely be corroded in place. Even an impact driver failed. Drill them out and replace the bars and screws.
Request please to Lewmar. Advice on drilling out the alloy rivets which are on some older ocean hatches, two per hinge. Why were these fitted as it creates a bigger problem when you want to remove the lid for renovations of the glass etc.
I’d like to replace two low profile acrylics. Somebody told me to add some sealant (e.g. Sika) but from your video I see that any sealant/glue is used. What is the right way? Thanks
Do you have any of your low profile hatches available in black? There's a online shop who's selling your hatches on black, but I couldn't find those models on your website. I would be very happy to get an answer! Thanks!!
Nice video, thanks. I have a problem with an old (2000) low profile hatch. The system is a little bit different and I am not able to separate the hatch from the frame. May you help me, please?
I have the same hatch, but it was installed opening from the rear. I'd like to reverse it, so it opens from the front. I have no problem remounting the associated parts on the reverse side, but I can't get the hinge separated from the frame. What is holding the hinge on to the frame? I took out the four screws that are in the hinge, but it wouldn't budge. Is it welded on? If so, I wonder if I can keep them in place and install two new hinges. I'm trying to avoid total frame removal with re-bonding.
How do we do lid replacement on the Ocean series hatch? They have a pinned hinge, very different from low/medium hatch. The Lewmar lids I ordered from Defender came with no instructions.
I've just stripped mine down. By the hinges, you will find a round, black, plastic plug. Prise that out with a small screwdriver. Looking in the hole that is revealed, you will see the hinge pin traversing the hole. Use a small screwdriver on the end of the pin and push the pin towards the outside of the hatch You can now see the pin is beginning to exit the hole at the side of the hinge. If the pin is a bit sticky, use some WD40 to ease it. Also, make sure you support the hatch as you are removing the pin. Grab the protruding end of the pin with a pair of mole grips (Vice grips) and pull the pin out. Voila, the lid now comes off.
Great vid. On some Lagoons the hatches are flush-mounted and only open to about 75 degrees, making getting to tthose first two screws very difficult. I wish you'd modify the design to use Torx or Robinson (square) head screws so the head doesn't require inward pressure to turn the screw. I use Z-shaped screwdrivers to remove them, but over time they're going to get stripped little by little. Torx screws would avoid that problem. For that matter, eliminating all Phillips head screws from your design would be great. Otherwise, these are great hatches; they are well designed and last years without maintenance!
You simply MUST be employed by Lewmar to say such blatant lies. The design is truly awful, with no redeeming features whatsoever. Read my post above and show your bosses!
@@claywebb8199 sorry, afraid not. 2008 Lagoon 420 owner. Haven't owned a boat with hatches from another company so I can't comment on what maybe others do better. I wish I could give your comment, but RUclips, in their utter lack of wisdom and desire to feed off of arguments and controversy to promote clicks, does not provide a search feature in the comments. Further, the comments are not organized the same for any two people... They are "optimized to promote interaction" (aka cause arguments to fester instead of creating informed discussion 🙄😡). Sorry... I would genuinely like to read your comment.
With great respect and no evil intentions, this video is almost useless compared to what it could be: Your close-up shots are far from close enough to be of use, and the audio is far from being audible due to the low recording level and high background noise. It's time to redo the video with professional assistance. Cheers!
Наука
There is a special place in hell for the designer of these hinges.
An important part detail is missing. T
Once the plastic spacers are removed, a plastic rod remains in place and the hinge pins can slide with it in place. To help with older hatches, spray all the hinge points with a thin lubricant. This will help immensely to slide the pins.
perfect video, I purchased a replacement from Mauri Pro. Took sometime as inventory was low. However, did receive and well it was winter anyways...
Be prepared to replace the hinge pin and associated parts. And the screws and bars holding the frame halves together. Here is why: The little sliding collars that release the hinge may not retract. If they don't, there is not a good nondestructive way to force them to retract.
The screws and bars that hold the frame halves together will likely be corroded in place. Even an impact driver failed. Drill them out and replace the bars and screws.
Would have loved to see how to replace the stay/friction lever as well on both sides... Mine is broken...
Request please to Lewmar. Advice on drilling out the alloy rivets which are on some older ocean hatches, two per hinge. Why were these fitted as it creates a bigger problem when you want to remove the lid for renovations of the glass etc.
Where can I buy just that dinky little black pin between the two casings?
I’d like to replace two low profile acrylics. Somebody told me to add some sealant (e.g. Sika) but from your video I see that any sealant/glue is used. What is the right way? Thanks
Do you have any of your low profile hatches available in black? There's a online shop who's selling your hatches on black, but I couldn't find those models on your website. I would be very happy to get an answer! Thanks!!
Nice video, thanks. I have a problem with an old (2000) low profile hatch. The system is a little bit different and I am not able to separate the hatch from the frame. May you help me, please?
I have the same hatch, but it was installed opening from the rear. I'd like to reverse it, so it opens from the front. I have no problem remounting the associated parts on the reverse side, but I can't get the hinge separated from the frame. What is holding the hinge on to the frame? I took out the four screws that are in the hinge, but it wouldn't budge. Is it welded on? If so, I wonder if I can keep them in place and install two new hinges. I'm trying to avoid total frame removal with re-bonding.
can you do this for the size 41 low profle
How do we do lid replacement on the Ocean series hatch? They have a pinned hinge, very different from low/medium hatch. The Lewmar lids I ordered from Defender came with no instructions.
I've just stripped mine down. By the hinges, you will find a round, black, plastic plug. Prise that out with a small screwdriver. Looking in the hole that is revealed, you will see the hinge pin traversing the hole. Use a small screwdriver on the end of the pin and push the pin towards the outside of the hatch You can now see the pin is beginning to exit the hole at the side of the hinge. If the pin is a bit sticky, use some WD40 to ease it. Also, make sure you support the hatch as you are removing the pin. Grab the protruding end of the pin with a pair of mole grips (Vice grips) and pull the pin out. Voila, the lid now comes off.
Great vid. On some Lagoons the hatches are flush-mounted and only open to about 75 degrees, making getting to tthose first two screws very difficult. I wish you'd modify the design to use Torx or Robinson (square) head screws so the head doesn't require inward pressure to turn the screw. I use Z-shaped screwdrivers to remove them, but over time they're going to get stripped little by little. Torx screws would avoid that problem. For that matter, eliminating all Phillips head screws from your design would be great. Otherwise, these are great hatches; they are well designed and last years without maintenance!
You simply MUST be employed by Lewmar to say such blatant lies. The design is truly awful, with no redeeming features whatsoever.
Read my post above and show your bosses!
@@claywebb8199 sorry, afraid not. 2008 Lagoon 420 owner. Haven't owned a boat with hatches from another company so I can't comment on what maybe others do better.
I wish I could give your comment, but RUclips, in their utter lack of wisdom and desire to feed off of arguments and controversy to promote clicks, does not provide a search feature in the comments. Further, the comments are not organized the same for any two people... They are "optimized to promote interaction" (aka cause arguments to fester instead of creating informed discussion 🙄😡). Sorry... I would genuinely like to read your comment.
No se ve bien como desmonta
With great respect and no evil intentions, this video is almost useless compared to what it could be: Your close-up shots are far from close enough to be of use, and the audio is far from being audible due to the low recording level and high background noise. It's time to redo the video with professional assistance. Cheers!
Lord, why do they make this trash to difficult ...
Bad vid no close up
Terrible how to video. I want to see close up of what he's doing, not a zoom out of him doing it.