Looks easy - with a new hatch. But you're likely to be replacing the seal on an old hatch. You'll find the screws have corroded with the aluminium and strip easily if you're not careful. Also the securing bars will have corroded and are stuck solid in the frame - I had to get one apart with a block and tackle. You'll have to spend time cleaning up the inside of the frame or it won't slide over the seal (and will probably still need some lubricant to prevent bunching up the seal in the middle when you push it on).One tip - only take the screws out on one side and leave the bar in one side of the frame if it's stuck - half the hassle!
100% what both Simon and Charles M say here. Just did this. All advice I wish I had read. 1. Had to replace the friction hinges on Lewmar 60 hatch as they were rusted/corroded and impossible to get out (centre screws only came out with hammer and screwdriver). Don’t be fooled, if you break your alan key and pin getting it out, it’s done. Note: this video was super helpful ruclips.net/video/eYi9NrAnwfI/видео.html Our frame has the friction hinges (video link above), while the Lewmar video for removing the lid shows the non friction hinges m.ruclips.net/video/Yh0Xn8WsG9w/видео.html - so just look out for that cause it looks easy but then you get tricked. It would be great if Lewmar could show both versions and some trouble shooting. 2. Start this on a day where you have time and ideal weather for a few days so you can order more parts. I thought this would be quick and easy but had to replace things and had rain panics. 3. It’s not that easy to put a hatch seal back on, and definitely not a 1 man job - these videos would have been way more helpful if they showed a realistic situation. Do it on a warm day or warm the seal a bit as it will be easier, get 2-3 hands to help hold while stretching. It takes a while and impossible with a new seal with one human (unless you have tools and clamps that help) 4. I only unscrewed the frame on 2 sides and left the bars in - this was easier to reassemble, but it’s quite tricky pushing the frames back together after putting the seal on. Required a lot of work (I’m pretty sure there is an easier way to put it back together like with lubricant, it wasn’t too bad when we pushed the frame out a bit to help it slide, but last little bit took a long time once the bars were going back in). 5. Watch the Lewmar video for taking the lid off in the first place, will save you the trouble of unscrewing the wrong parts off (see comment 1 about the hinges though) 6. If you have the cash, I’d honestly just buy the entire hatch 🤣 Just saying, it was a mission and sounds like a lot of people experience this thing being a pain. I’m pretty sure that after all of this it almost cost the same.
I need replacement screws as mine need to be drilled out. What sizes are the screws for Low Profile size 10 hatches? Is there a chart with screw size for different size hatches?
Be more relevant if you took a new seal out of the bag and installed it. I just ordered one from my local supplier, who got it from Lewmar, and it is way too small to fit on easily. Seems about 10 inches too short- can't even get it around the 3rd corner of my Series 30 rectangle hatch window, let alone the 4th.
LOL - this video is a total joke. To anyone looking at this and coming away thinking these Lewmar low-profile hatches can be rebuilt - YOU HAVE BEEN DUPED. The rubber seals TEAR when you attempt to push the metal frame back on. EVERY TIME. Slathered with copious quantities of silicone grease, seal equally tight all the way around - no difference in outcome. Every time as the frame pieces get close together the rubber at a corner will tear. You will spend more on seal kits and other parts attempting to rebuild these hatches than the hatches cost new. AND you will have wasted hours in utter frustration. For Lewmar to sell rubber seal kits for over $35 per seal and to a design that is guaranteed to fail during assemble is WRONG.
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good to see that kind of tutorils for installation hatches and vents
Looks easy - with a new hatch. But you're likely to be replacing the seal on an old hatch. You'll find the screws have corroded with the aluminium and strip easily if you're not careful. Also the securing bars will have corroded and are stuck solid in the frame - I had to get one apart with a block and tackle. You'll have to spend time cleaning up the inside of the frame or it won't slide over the seal (and will probably still need some lubricant to prevent bunching up the seal in the middle when you push it on).One tip - only take the screws out on one side and leave the bar in one side of the frame if it's stuck - half the hassle!
How did you bring out the stucked screws? thanks
100% what both Simon and Charles M say here. Just did this. All advice I wish I had read.
1. Had to replace the friction hinges on Lewmar 60 hatch as they were rusted/corroded and impossible to get out (centre screws only came out with hammer and screwdriver). Don’t be fooled, if you break your alan key and pin getting it out, it’s done. Note: this video was super helpful ruclips.net/video/eYi9NrAnwfI/видео.html
Our frame has the friction hinges (video link above), while the Lewmar video for removing the lid shows the non friction hinges m.ruclips.net/video/Yh0Xn8WsG9w/видео.html - so just look out for that cause it looks easy but then you get tricked. It would be great if Lewmar could show both versions and some trouble shooting.
2. Start this on a day where you have time and ideal weather for a few days so you can order more parts. I thought this would be quick and easy but had to replace things and had rain panics.
3. It’s not that easy to put a hatch seal back on, and definitely not a 1 man job - these videos would have been way more helpful if they showed a realistic situation. Do it on a warm day or warm the seal a bit as it will be easier, get 2-3 hands to help hold while stretching. It takes a while and impossible with a new seal with one human (unless you have tools and clamps that help)
4. I only unscrewed the frame on 2 sides and left the bars in - this was easier to reassemble, but it’s quite tricky pushing the frames back together after putting the seal on. Required a lot of work (I’m pretty sure there is an easier way to put it back together like with lubricant, it wasn’t too bad when we pushed the frame out a bit to help it slide, but last little bit took a long time once the bars were going back in).
5. Watch the Lewmar video for taking the lid off in the first place, will save you the trouble of unscrewing the wrong parts off (see comment 1 about the hinges though)
6. If you have the cash, I’d honestly just buy the entire hatch 🤣 Just saying, it was a mission and sounds like a lot of people experience this thing being a pain. I’m pretty sure that after all of this it almost cost the same.
really helpfull
Hi I have this Lewmar Hatch (39730070) on a Grady White 208 Adventure. Where can I find the replacement part? Like the seals and the acrylic.
I need replacement screws as mine need to be drilled out. What sizes are the screws for Low Profile size 10 hatches? Is there a chart with screw size for different size hatches?
How did you bring out the stucked screws?
6 of my 8 screwed were severely stripped and wouldn’t come out even after using a stripped screw extractor. Any suggestions as to how to remove them?
Hi Joe,
if you could please drop an email into techsupport@lewmar.com then we can give you some advice on how to proceed.
Toby, I would have rather seen you actually use a NEW Seal, instead of reusing the one you did. Stretcing a new seal can be problematic as I found out
Be more relevant if you took a new seal out of the bag and installed it. I just ordered one from my local supplier, who got it from Lewmar, and it is way too small to fit on easily. Seems about 10 inches too short- can't even get it around the 3rd corner of my Series 30 rectangle hatch window, let alone the 4th.
LOL - this video is a total joke. To anyone looking at this and coming away thinking these Lewmar low-profile hatches can be rebuilt - YOU HAVE BEEN DUPED. The rubber seals TEAR when you attempt to push the metal frame back on. EVERY TIME. Slathered with copious quantities of silicone grease, seal equally tight all the way around - no difference in outcome. Every time as the frame pieces get close together the rubber at a corner will tear. You will spend more on seal kits and other parts attempting to rebuild these hatches than the hatches cost new. AND you will have wasted hours in utter frustration. For Lewmar to sell rubber seal kits for over $35 per seal and to a design that is guaranteed to fail during assemble is WRONG.