Sailing Jabuka Thanks and you're welcome! Nice, yea lexan Is nice stiff but you should try to get it thick because it does flex more than plexiglass. Good luck and hope it goes well!
You can use Dow 795 but Dow 995 is a better choice. It has a faster cure time, is more UV resistant, higher adhesion, and more elasticity making it resistant to popping out from impacts.
Those black pins are like split pins. Get a small pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the side of the pin that is split and as you squeeze push it through. Another pair of pliers on the other side pulling can help but try not to mangle the pin. New pins can be found online though.
Also, I did have to cut a couple of mine because they were seized in the hole from aluminum oxidation. Used a thin hacksaw blade then knocked the pieces out with a small punch and hammer.
@@sailorseb no problem, yea the brand is Goiot. I think that's how it's spelled. But you can buy more from RigRite and I believe a rigging company in FL name sailor man or something like that if I remember correctly(recommend them before RigRite)
I have never had a problem with chipped edges - how sharp are your router cutters? I have been fitting new acrylics to hatches for 30 years as a boat window specialist. www.yachtwindows.co.uk
@@jean-pierredeclemy7032 the cutters were brand new but it still leaves a dull finish on the edges. How do you get the edges polished after you cut them? They have been on board for a couple years now and the edges still look fine. We keep our hatches covered with covers from Outland Hatch Covers (outlandhatchcovers.com/) which keeps the sun off of them and the boat much cooler inside.
thanks for sharing. I will soon tackle the same job for my refitting project. I will use a material named 'Lexan' that is UV resistent. best!
Sailing Jabuka Thanks and you're welcome! Nice, yea lexan Is nice stiff but you should try to get it thick because it does flex more than plexiglass. Good luck and hope it goes well!
You can use Dow 795 but Dow 995 is a better choice. It has a faster cure time, is more UV resistant, higher adhesion, and more elasticity making it resistant to popping out from impacts.
How did you get the hatch lid off the hatch base? I have the same hatch and there is some kind of plastic pluggs in the hinges?
Those black pins are like split pins. Get a small pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the side of the pin that is split and as you squeeze push it through. Another pair of pliers on the other side pulling can help but try not to mangle the pin. New pins can be found online though.
Also, I did have to cut a couple of mine because they were seized in the hole from aluminum oxidation. Used a thin hacksaw blade then knocked the pieces out with a small punch and hammer.
@@ronniej6911 That is super! Thank you for replying. much appreciated
@@sailorseb no problem, yea the brand is Goiot. I think that's how it's spelled. But you can buy more from RigRite and I believe a rigging company in FL name sailor man or something like that if I remember correctly(recommend them before RigRite)
What thickness acrilic did you use?
Hey Geoff! We used 1/2" plexiglass for all of our hatches and ports.
Using a blowtorch to polish edges is a BAD idea. It will cause premature crazing to the acrylic.
Interesting, is there better way than chipped edges? Sanding and a polisher?
I have never had a problem with chipped edges - how sharp are your router cutters?
I have been fitting new acrylics to hatches for 30 years as a boat window specialist. www.yachtwindows.co.uk
@@jean-pierredeclemy7032 the cutters were brand new but it still leaves a dull finish on the edges. How do you get the edges polished after you cut them? They have been on board for a couple years now and the edges still look fine. We keep our hatches covered with covers from Outland Hatch Covers (outlandhatchcovers.com/) which keeps the sun off of them and the boat much cooler inside.
Next time, try to use more neutral music. That just made me want to move on rather quickly.