Very informative video, and probably the only one similar to my vehicle (cc). The only thing that you left out, unless i missed it, was to disconnect the battery. The LPFP will pump fuel to the HPFP if someone opens the door or unlocks the car.
Thank you! Nope, you’re right. A very important step that I didn’t show (Or do, because nobody else is touching my car 😂). I didn’t even think about it, you are the first person to point that out 👏 Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
If every 'how-to' vehicle repair video was this well done, we wouldn't have a need for mechanics lol. Thanks for this video! Mine is leaking quite a bit of oil, and this will definitely come in handy for the replacement!
Subscribed. Awesome video, thank you. Took me about 45 minutes total - including cleaning up the old leaked gunk. FYI for anyone encountering the issue: I have a 2014 Tiguan which had some older revision of the HPFP small o-ring. It had an indentation and looks entirely different from the new version. Don't worry if you have this, as the new one fits and installs perfectly fine.
Very much appreciated, for some reason the only other vids I can find on this are for FSI motors, they don't need to remove their fuel pump. You saved me $$
Thank you! If you’re talking about the plastic lower engine shield removal, I think I misspoke. I thought I did an oil change video on the Tiguan but it was actually my GTI and the shield is slightly different but the same process. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, more videos on the way!
After finishing the install with the help of your super helpful video I let it idle for about ten minutes without any issue. After that seemingly successful install I took the car for an actual drive and was fine until I gave it some real acceleration - at which point the engine loss all power and the car appeared to stall. It fired right back up no problem and idled fine only to cut out again under acceleration. No check engine light to give me a clue. The battery light is on but it’s producing solid volts. So now I’m wondering if fuel delivery is the issue and I was hoping you could provide some insight or suggestions. Cheers and thanks in advance.
Thanks for the feedback! Hmmm, did you disconnect the battery terminals at any point? Could be a loose terminal bouncing around? Maybe double check all of the vacuum lines in that area of repair. The one on the vacuum pump itself and the one that goes to the intake manifold. It could be fuel related. Maybe check the electrical connector that is on the high pressure pump that is on the front side of the vacuum pump. If that all checks out, maybe get ahold of a fuel pressure gauge and check the low side pressure on the fuel line before it makes its way to the high pressure pump. There is a junction on the left back top side of the engine where it is pretty easy to disconnect. Hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
First of all, you are setting the standard in how R&R videos should be done. You stated there’s vacuum pressure on the system, making the grommeted connector hard to remove, and that makes sense. Is it safe to say, if you can easily remove that line at any time you have a vacuum issue? I ask because I’m struggling with and learning about a recently purchased MK1 Tiguan. Is there a simple way to test vacuum otherwise? Thank you in advance.
I appreciate that! Yes, it is very possible there is a vacuum leak or the vacuum pump is not creating vacuum. A quick easy test for the pump itself without any tools is to pop the vacuum line off while the engine is running and put your finger on it. If it sucks on your finger, chances are the pump is still creating sufficient vacuum. I would try to be quick with this test as it can cause a check engine light if the line is disconnected for too long of time. Hope this helps! Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Thanks. I’m really struggling with this vehicle. I bought it knowing that it had a previous PCV issue, oil leaks, and a surprise engine light. The codes were lean related. I was told the new breather assembly was bad by a “import specialist.” I order a breather assembly from ECS complete with hoses. Once I put it misfired and every cylinder. I put the old assembly and hoses back on and it runs fine. I am going to clear the codes and run it for a while. I’m wondering is the vacuum pump is weak, causing a lean issue. I don’t believe there’s a timing issue as it has only 95k and so slapping noise at start up. I’m found oil leaks at the upper cam cover as well as from the magnetic adjuster. There seem to be one around the vacuum. As you stated, if there’s a leak the pump could be bad. Can a combination of oil leaks and a vacuum leak cause leak codes or even just a bad or leaking vacuum pump. Thanks again for your help in this.
@@ianwirick7508 Lean faults are going to be due to an unmetered engine air leak. I can’t recall ever seeing a vacuum pump causing those. Severe oil leaks and lean faults go hand in hand. Most of what I am about to say are the common problems that cause lean faults (minus #2) Here are a few things to check: 1.) If the car was driven with a bad PCV for an extended period of time, there is a good chance that it blew out the rear main crank seal that is in between the transmission and engine. Clean off any and all oil leaks thoroughly then let it run or go for a quick test drive then recheck for where the oil leak is coming from. 2.) If you only have misfire faults and no lean faults, make sure the ignition coils and spark plugs are factory VW/NGK. This engine is very sensitive to having factory ignition/spark. 3.) If you have the fault P2015-Intake manifold runner position sensor, chances are the vacuum actuated arm on the drivers side of the manifold has popped out which will cause a large air leak (I haven’t made a video on this yet but there are plenty out there). 4.) Bad PCV. A quick check is to put your finger on the little hole that is on the back side of the round cap on top. If it sucks on your finger with a decent amount of suction, it is bad. If it feels kind of neutral and barely feels like it is sucking on your finger, it is still good. 5.) Listen for air hissing at idle. Shouldn’t be hissing anywhere.
I’ve looked for the hole you mentioned, but I’m unable to find on with suction of any type. Maybe that’s a good thing. Also, I fabricated a smoke tester and didn’t have any noticeable leaking that way. I’m going to try a professional smoke tester next.
Thank you! Not from my experience with only oil leaking from the vacuum pump. If leaking vacuum then yes. Normally on that car though, rough idle on a cold start up means you have carbon build-up on the intake valves. Would need to take the intake manifold off and manually clean out the carbon. Hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair thanks, got the new pump on. Definitely do not overtignten the bolts, I stripped one out and had to place a thread insert! The oil leak is gone now. Going to throw new coils & plugs in and look for a place to have the valves cleaned.
Does anyone know the actual torque specs for the vacuum pump bolts...the 3 long ones that attach to the cylinder head (in the video around 12 minute mark). tks!
Unfortunately I don’t give out torque specs on my page for liability. I just give the step by step know how. I leave that little bit of research to the viewers. Thanks for subscribing. A few more videos in the works!
Is this the only place in that area that will leak oil? I’ve got a puddle on top of the trans and from underneath it’s dripping off of the bottom of the manifold on drivers side rear of motor. From what I’ve seen it seems to be the only culprit. Valve cover is clean
If there is a puddle on top of the transmission my bet would be the vacuum pump and gasket. Start with that and clean up the area. If you find oil still leaking after that, the only other item that typically leaks on that side of the engine is the metal cam cradle “a.k.a. Valve Cover”. The red or green anaerobic sealant dries up after a while and starts to seep oil, sometimes to the point of a leak. Hope this helps. Thanks for subscribing!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair it’s definitely the pump. After a few minutes of running I can put my hand on the bottom of the pump and it’s covered in oil. Would it be acceptable to just replace the gaskets on the pump instead of buy new? Since the pump still functions properly?
@@dmanwinters17 99% of the time the pumps start to leak at one of the seams that are “not to be separated”. I would replace the pump and gasket and call it a day. On ECSTUNING.COM the Pierburg pump is the exact same pump as the OEM genuine VW pump. It is who makes and supply’s VW pump, just without a sticker that says VW/Audi and is $150 cheaper. Says it’s $245 right now plus a $5 gasket.
Most of the time on this engine it’s the PCV valve assembly located on top under the engine cover on the right hand side (big black assembly). There is a small hole on it, put your finger on it and see if you can feel suction. If you do, you’re PCV valve assembly is faulty. Hope this helps! Don’t forget to subscribe!
@@FantasyUFC Finally found it, turn out I have a big rubber pipe out of its place, the one goes to the intake manifold, it was laying out from the down side behind the driver wheel, I had to remove the cover and Crowle under the car to put it back in place, i write this incase you had the same issue.
Very informative video, and probably the only one similar to my vehicle (cc). The only thing that you left out, unless i missed it, was to disconnect the battery. The LPFP will pump fuel to the HPFP if someone opens the door or unlocks the car.
Thank you!
Nope, you’re right. A very important step that I didn’t show (Or do, because nobody else is touching my car 😂).
I didn’t even think about it, you are the first person to point that out 👏
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
If every 'how-to' vehicle repair video was this well done, we wouldn't have a need for mechanics lol. Thanks for this video! Mine is leaking quite a bit of oil, and this will definitely come in handy for the replacement!
Thanks so much for the awesome compliment! Glad I could help.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Subscribed. Awesome video, thank you. Took me about 45 minutes total - including cleaning up the old leaked gunk. FYI for anyone encountering the issue: I have a 2014 Tiguan which had some older revision of the HPFP small o-ring. It had an indentation and looks entirely different from the new version. Don't worry if you have this, as the new one fits and installs perfectly fine.
Thanks so much! Glad I could help out!
Very much appreciated, for some reason the only other vids I can find on this are for FSI motors, they don't need to remove their fuel pump. You saved me $$
No problem!
Yeah, they are slightly different. The TSI is much easier in my opinion.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
The whole engine setup looks Identical to my CC. Thanks, it was very straightforward and helpful.
Yup, it’s the same.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already!
Great video and detailed. I almost paid $800 for this repair until I saw this.
Glad I could help!
Thanks for subscribing!
This is a real useful how-to... well done. Didn't see the lower engine seal video on your list.
Thank you!
If you’re talking about the plastic lower engine shield removal, I think I misspoke. I thought I did an oil change video on the Tiguan but it was actually my GTI and the shield is slightly different but the same process.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, more videos on the way!
After finishing the install with the help of your super helpful video I let it idle for about ten minutes without any issue. After that seemingly successful install I took the car for an actual drive and was fine until I gave it some real acceleration - at which point the engine loss all power and the car appeared to stall. It fired right back up no problem and idled fine only to cut out again under acceleration. No check engine light to give me a clue. The battery light is on but it’s producing solid volts. So now I’m wondering if fuel delivery is the issue and I was hoping you could provide some insight or suggestions. Cheers and thanks in advance.
Thanks for the feedback!
Hmmm, did you disconnect the battery terminals at any point? Could be a loose terminal bouncing around?
Maybe double check all of the vacuum lines in that area of repair. The one on the vacuum pump itself and the one that goes to the intake manifold.
It could be fuel related. Maybe check the electrical connector that is on the high pressure pump that is on the front side of the vacuum pump.
If that all checks out, maybe get ahold of a fuel pressure gauge and check the low side pressure on the fuel line before it makes its way to the high pressure pump. There is a junction on the left back top side of the engine where it is pretty easy to disconnect.
Hope this helps.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Thanks for this. Same procedure for a MK6 GTI.
No problem!
Yup, same procedure.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
First of all, you are setting the standard in how R&R videos should be done.
You stated there’s vacuum pressure on the system, making the grommeted connector hard to remove, and that makes sense. Is it safe to say, if you can easily remove that line at any time you have a vacuum issue? I ask because I’m struggling with and learning about a recently purchased MK1 Tiguan.
Is there a simple way to test vacuum otherwise?
Thank you in advance.
I appreciate that!
Yes, it is very possible there is a vacuum leak or the vacuum pump is not creating vacuum. A quick easy test for the pump itself without any tools is to pop the vacuum line off while the engine is running and put your finger on it. If it sucks on your finger, chances are the pump is still creating sufficient vacuum. I would try to be quick with this test as it can cause a check engine light if the line is disconnected for too long of time.
Hope this helps!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Thanks. I’m really struggling with this vehicle. I bought it knowing that it had a previous PCV issue, oil leaks, and a surprise engine light. The codes were lean related. I was told the new breather assembly was bad by a “import specialist.” I order a breather assembly from ECS complete with hoses. Once I put it misfired and every cylinder. I put the old assembly and hoses back on and it runs fine. I am going to clear the codes and run it for a while.
I’m wondering is the vacuum pump is weak, causing a lean issue. I don’t believe there’s a timing issue as it has only 95k and so slapping noise at start up. I’m found oil leaks at the upper cam cover as well as from the magnetic adjuster. There seem to be one around the vacuum. As you stated, if there’s a leak the pump could be bad. Can a combination of oil leaks and a vacuum leak cause leak codes or even just a bad or leaking vacuum pump. Thanks again for your help in this.
@@ianwirick7508 Lean faults are going to be due to an unmetered engine air leak. I can’t recall ever seeing a vacuum pump causing those. Severe oil leaks and lean faults go hand in hand. Most of what I am about to say are the common problems that cause lean faults (minus #2)
Here are a few things to check:
1.) If the car was driven with a bad PCV for an extended period of time, there is a good chance that it blew out the rear main crank seal that is in between the transmission and engine. Clean off any and all oil leaks thoroughly then let it run or go for a quick test drive then recheck for where the oil leak is coming from.
2.) If you only have misfire faults and no lean faults, make sure the ignition coils and spark plugs are factory VW/NGK. This engine is very sensitive to having factory ignition/spark.
3.) If you have the fault P2015-Intake manifold runner position sensor, chances are the vacuum actuated arm on the drivers side of the manifold has popped out which will cause a large air leak (I haven’t made a video on this yet but there are plenty out there).
4.) Bad PCV. A quick check is to put your finger on the little hole that is on the back side of the round cap on top. If it sucks on your finger with a decent amount of suction, it is bad. If it feels kind of neutral and barely feels like it is sucking on your finger, it is still good.
5.) Listen for air hissing at idle. Shouldn’t be hissing anywhere.
I’ll report back. You have been extremely informative and helpful! I greatly appreciate the replies.
I’ve looked for the hole you mentioned, but I’m unable to find on with suction of any type. Maybe that’s a good thing. Also, I fabricated a smoke tester and didn’t have any noticeable leaking that way. I’m going to try a professional smoke tester next.
Awesome video, taking on this job to reseal a leaking vac pump on a 2010 Passat. Could a leaking pump cause poor idle on cold starts? Thanks
Thank you!
Not from my experience with only oil leaking from the vacuum pump. If leaking vacuum then yes. Normally on that car though, rough idle on a cold start up means you have carbon build-up on the intake valves. Would need to take the intake manifold off and manually clean out the carbon. Hope this helps.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair thanks, got the new pump on. Definitely do not overtignten the bolts, I stripped one out and had to place a thread insert! The oil leak is gone now. Going to throw new coils & plugs in and look for a place to have the valves cleaned.
@@SchneidyP Nice!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the helpful video
No problem!
Don’t forget to subscribe!
Broooo i need more videos about tiguan 🤣 please
What do you need to see?
Also, don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already. Thanks!
Great video!! Keep it up
Thank you!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already!
perfect! thank you so much!
No problem at all!
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already! Thanks!
Does anyone know the actual torque specs for the vacuum pump bolts...the 3 long ones that attach to the cylinder head (in the video around 12 minute mark). tks!
Unfortunately I don’t give out torque specs on my page for liability. I just give the step by step know how. I leave that little bit of research to the viewers.
Thanks for subscribing. A few more videos in the works!
9 newton meters
What does the vacuum line you disconnected connect to under the intake manifold? What is the purpose?
Good question.
It supplies vacuum to the intake manifold flaps that are actuated by an electronically controlled valve.
Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already, thanks!
Is this the only place in that area that will leak oil? I’ve got a puddle on top of the trans and from underneath it’s dripping off of the bottom of the manifold on drivers side rear of motor. From what I’ve seen it seems to be the only culprit. Valve cover is clean
If there is a puddle on top of the transmission my bet would be the vacuum pump and gasket. Start with that and clean up the area. If you find oil still leaking after that, the only other item that typically leaks on that side of the engine is the metal cam cradle “a.k.a. Valve Cover”. The red or green anaerobic sealant dries up after a while and starts to seep oil, sometimes to the point of a leak.
Hope this helps. Thanks for subscribing!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair it’s definitely the pump. After a few minutes of running I can put my hand on the bottom of the pump and it’s covered in oil. Would it be acceptable to just replace the gaskets on the pump instead of buy new? Since the pump still functions properly?
@@dmanwinters17 99% of the time the pumps start to leak at one of the seams that are “not to be separated”. I would replace the pump and gasket and call it a day. On ECSTUNING.COM the Pierburg pump is the exact same pump as the OEM genuine VW pump. It is who makes and supply’s VW pump, just without a sticker that says VW/Audi and is $150 cheaper. Says it’s $245 right now plus a $5 gasket.
I have a Vacuum leak I can hear it when accelerating, but I couldn't find the leacking point
Most of the time on this engine it’s the PCV valve assembly located on top under the engine cover on the right hand side (big black assembly). There is a small hole on it, put your finger on it and see if you can feel suction. If you do, you’re PCV valve assembly is faulty. Hope this helps!
Don’t forget to subscribe!
@@RedsVolkswagenRepair Thanks, I will check it out
Same here. I hear a loud blowing sound when accelerating. Also not sure where the leak is. 09 Tiguan tsi 1.4
@@FantasyUFC Finally found it, turn out I have a big rubber pipe out of its place, the one goes to the intake manifold, it was laying out from the down side behind the driver wheel, I had to remove the cover and Crowle under the car to put it back in place, i write this incase you had the same issue.
@@DIY_TOP thanks. Will check it out and give feedback
Gravy
Not without Gary.