Hey Curtis you needed to tight the nut don’t want your wheel to fall on road and use new cutter pin every time you take off used pins great video explaining how to DIY thank you stay safe ✌🏼.
Yeah I ended up Tightening the Bolt back turns out my brake bad shield was rubbing on my rotor. So i had to adjust that so the Bearing was not the case of the Noise I heard. And really I never bought new cotter pins ever. Will do Thanks for the comment
You didn't explain the preload on the bearings. That nut needs to be torqued down to 45 ft-lbs or so, rotate the hub assembly so that everything is good, take the nut off, torque it down again to 45 ft-lbs, rotate the hub assembly again, and then loosen the nut until it is just finger tight. Otherwise you will not get that bearing seated all the way in. Notice in the video where you said, "WTF?" You didn't get the bearing in all the way.
This is the most dangerous shit I’ve ever seen someone do. Hand tightening that nut by hand is a bad idea because you will get a severe amount of play in the near future that can be damaging to your pads and rotors not to mention your tire can fly off.
Why would you use a torque? Aslong as you know the ft pound you can use any tool you need to secure it. Been 4 years since this video nothing has came off or been damaged.
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Hey Curtis you needed to tight the nut don’t want your wheel to fall on road and use new cutter pin every time you take off used pins great video explaining how to DIY thank you stay safe ✌🏼.
Yeah I ended up Tightening the Bolt back turns out my brake bad shield was rubbing on my rotor. So i had to adjust that so the Bearing was not the case of the Noise I heard. And really I never bought new cotter pins ever. Will do Thanks for the comment
what about the other bearing behind the hub?
Replace if needed
Inner bearing
a large pair of channel-lock pliers get the wheel bearing cap off, without DAMAGING it.....just turn it back and forth, while pulliing out on it.....
Does it need to be pre-loaded
is this 4x4 or 2wd?
2WD
You didn't explain the preload on the bearings. That nut needs to be torqued down to 45 ft-lbs or so, rotate the hub assembly so that everything is good, take the nut off, torque it down again to 45 ft-lbs, rotate the hub assembly again, and then loosen the nut until it is just finger tight. Otherwise you will not get that bearing seated all the way in. Notice in the video where you said, "WTF?" You didn't get the bearing in all the way.
All these years later my trucks still going strong after doing this. I believe I tightened the nut more.
You’re not gonna change the inner bearing as well
Replace if needed i didn’t need mine.
Never heard someone whine so much replacing a cotter pin
that's just the outer bearing
Great make a video doing the inner.
NUT not a bolt....
Shut up
If you going to make a vide say in right cause u saying bad word so say it good an be honest noone dont thing
@@charlescruz5759 if your going to leave a Comment Speak Clearly. So i can Read it Thank you!
😂
dislike for talking shit on the dog my guy lol
The Dogs never shut up
This is the most dangerous shit I’ve ever seen someone do. Hand tightening that nut by hand is a bad idea because you will get a severe amount of play in the near future that can be damaging to your pads and rotors not to mention your tire can fly off.
Why would you use a torque? Aslong as you know the ft pound you can use any tool you need to secure it. Been 4 years since this video nothing has came off or been damaged.