Isn’t there a spec for how you reinstall the bearing retainer? You’d have to press it in “overtorqued” first, then give it a few rotations to seat everything, then back it off so you don’t axially load the bearings. But I can’t find the spec anywhere. Great vid. Thanks for all the other little tips.
Nice video and visuals! The spinning threaded locker thing that wasn't tight needs to be torqued down to some value, then backed off to a lighter torque value. I think it's to ensure you center the bearing all the way back correctly and then backing it out to the lesser torque value allows it to not be too tight and let the assembly spin freely, yet secure.
Great tip, thanks! Mine was a pain to tighten property and got stuck several times - so I hacked together a U pronged tool to do it using two extra long Allen keys drilled through a bit of 2x4. Screwed in until tight, then backed off so the rotor wasn't rubbing on the rotor guard. Not pretty but got the job done.
@@jetfxr27 yes or the bearing won’t spin very freely and you risk prematurely wearing it. Check the manual. It has values for it done in the manner I stated above.
Looking at this, I'm honestly thinking I should just replace my bearings while I'm replacing the rotors. Got the same truck (except in purple) so thank you for this vid!
Gotta make sure I'm on the same page now. I see you only replaced one bearing. I have two bearingsin the hub on the inside and outside of the axel. Did someone before me mess up or is your editing cut that out?
You use your impact gun to bolt the rotor to the knuckle. I'd like to torque mine down with a wrench but am having a hard time getting leverage with the rotor/knuckle just on the ground like that. any tips? or is torquing not necessary
Put the rotor back on. Put the Brake caliper bracket back on. Put a screw driver or punch in the middle of the rotor and spin until the screwdriver makes contact with the bracket. You can tourque them down and the screw driver holds the rotors still.
Im replacing pads and rotors. I know i need to repack the inner bearing but do I need to remove the outer bearings in the rotor bracket if I don't plan on replacing them?
I can honestly say this is the most informative video on this project. Thank you for uploading.
Hell yeah, finally a good DIY info video on this. Gonna refer to this video when I do my bearings on my ‘88 pathy and ‘02 xterra. Thanks man.
bro thank you so much for posting this video, by far the most in depth video for this truck 🤙🤙
Isn’t there a spec for how you reinstall the bearing retainer? You’d have to press it in “overtorqued” first, then give it a few rotations to seat everything, then back it off so you don’t axially load the bearings. But I can’t find the spec anywhere. Great vid. Thanks for all the other little tips.
Nice video and visuals! The spinning threaded locker thing that wasn't tight needs to be torqued down to some value, then backed off to a lighter torque value.
I think it's to ensure you center the bearing all the way back correctly and then backing it out to the lesser torque value allows it to not be too tight and let the assembly spin freely, yet secure.
I do that on my 79 620 KC and then just shake the stuff out of the tire to feel play....been doing it that way for 36 yrs
Great tip, thanks! Mine was a pain to tighten property and got stuck several times - so I hacked together a U pronged tool to do it using two extra long Allen keys drilled through a bit of 2x4. Screwed in until tight, then backed off so the rotor wasn't rubbing on the rotor guard. Not pretty but got the job done.
I tourqued mine down all the way and left it. Should I back it back off?
@@jetfxr27 yes or the bearing won’t spin very freely and you risk prematurely wearing it. Check the manual. It has values for it done in the manner I stated above.
Looking at this, I'm honestly thinking I should just replace my bearings while I'm replacing the rotors. Got the same truck (except in purple) so thank you for this vid!
Gotta make sure I'm on the same page now. I see you only replaced one bearing. I have two bearingsin the hub on the inside and outside of the axel. Did someone before me mess up or is your editing cut that out?
Thanks a million. I thought I was stretching it with my 1997 PU. Why do they keep running?
Thank you for making this video it helped me big time
Do u have a part number for all the parts used
Good job, I will be using this video for reference when I get around to doing the same on mine.
Keep up the work bro.
I know Im kind of randomly asking but do anybody know a good place to watch newly released tv shows online ?
@Fabian Malcolm I use flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
@Fabian Malcolm try Flixzone. Just google for it =)
Nice brake rotor. Very cool!
Thank you for your time and energy I appreciate it very much
Hey do you have any videos on doing the valve cover on 3.0
Thank you for the great video. AT 5:57 where the hub is connected back to the rotor, do you know the torque specfication on those six bolts?
49-69 N•m
Was this a 2wd or 4x4
Is this the same procedure for the rear?
Pies, I am doing the same wheel bearing grease packing on my D21 but how can one tell if the bearing seal was all the way down?
I got it with a rubber hammer as shown in this video.
thank you mate
No torque wrench needed? Thought it needed to be torqued to I think 60lbs? Maybe that's on later models...
You use your impact gun to bolt the rotor to the knuckle. I'd like to torque mine down with a wrench but am having a hard time getting leverage with the rotor/knuckle just on the ground like that. any tips? or is torquing not necessary
I would use a vise if you have one and if you're replacing the rotor anyway, you can just bite the vise on the rotors.
Maybe get a cheater pipe on the ratchet/breaker bar you’re using and get a sturdy screwdriver inside the rotor fins
Put the rotor back on. Put the Brake caliper bracket back on. Put a screw driver or punch in the middle of the rotor and spin until the screwdriver makes contact with the bracket. You can tourque them down and the screw driver holds the rotors still.
Now do the rears in 10 minutes.....
Well done
Im replacing pads and rotors. I know i need to repack the inner bearing but do I need to remove the outer bearings in the rotor bracket if I don't plan on replacing them?
I was mistaken, the bearing race or raise or whatever its called is what im talking about
You don't have to remove the bearing race if you don't need to replace it. Just take the bearing out and repack it and you should be good to go!
This was a 2wd right?
It's a 4wD
Wheel bearing and rotor are the same thing?
Nope, the bearings sit inside a hub attached to the rotor
Thank god
Bro put the bering in backwards then skipped lol
No bearing preset? Wtf. Didn't even tighten center lock nut
Whats the lock nut tourque spec.?