Replace Your Rear Wheel Bearing Without a Press!
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Hey everyone! I had to tackle this job over the weekend so I figured I'd film it and help out any of you that might need to do the same job soon. Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section.
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If you don't have a press and are going to hammer the new bearing in, I recommend you freezing the bearing first. The freezing will reduce the size of the bearing and it will seat in place easier and thus reducing the propensity of damaging your bearing.
Pro tip if you put the new bearing in the freezer before you start doing the job. Then when it comes to putting it in heat up the surface where it sits with a blow torch then grab the new bearing out the freezer and it should just slide right in there if not it will still be a whole lot easyer to get it in like that! :D but awesome video man!
Steve 0861 sure is.
So you hear up where the new bearing slides in the middle?
@@DR19X yep
And if the top rubber bushing is that bad you can just remove it and put the entire upright in the owen...
9:45 is a big no no. The wheel hub presses into the bearings inner race. You need to support that inner race before pushing it in. In the video you were supporting the outer race so all that pounding went directly into the ball bearings which could ruin the bearing. Hopefully it's still running good after all this time.
Agree, that new bearing is now junk.
Can't believe this comment isn't voted higher. He definitely shortened those bearings lifespan a lot with that move.
I don't even own a Miata (yet) and watch all of your videos. Just wanted to tell you that I love them! Very clean, concise, and easy for a novice like me to understand. Learning a ton, thank you so much!
+Ruben Alanis Glad you're liking it man plenty more to come!
Me too, I have a MR2, but these are entertaining to watch mother info can be transferred to others cars.
No need to be concerned about the videos being too long, when it comes to thorough and complete instruction long and detailed is the way to go, even longer would be fine for sure.
Thanks for all the great videos, they've been a huge help not only doing the work, but having the confidence to try. Love that you try to keep everything as simple with tools as possible for us with tiny tool boxes!
Great video. As said before, freezing the bearing will make it easier to install. I don't like the idea of belting it on with a hammer but if you have limited tools it can work for you. Great video. Thanks
THANKS for this video man! Only one on the internet worth watching!
HELPED A LOT. For what it's worth, the factory workshop manual states
torque on the axle nut is 205 ft lbs. +/-30.
i did this job just now and man it was TOUGH you made it look easy but im exausted bruised and wiped out! i did it though thanks to this video i only spent 50$ on a new bearing and hub!
Thank you for another great video.
One thing I would add is that the rim of the hub nut should be dented have so it protrudes into the spindle keyway. This prevents the nut from i threading off.
You made this look really easy with simple hand tools. I had all the fancy stuff like hydrolic press and other stuff to make the job easier and it wasn't. All that stuff had been on my car since 93 so it was a pain
I don't own a Miata yet, but I will soon. I love watching these videos because I know next to nothing about working on cars. I plan on learning on my Miata when that day comes. Thanks for the videos!
Yours is the best Miata repair channel on RUclips. Thank you!
When you installed the hub to the bearing like that with your slide hammer you should have supported the new bearing with something underneath especially in the inner surface of the new bearing beating it in like that not supported causes premature failure if you havent noticed that by now yet just advice from someone who has done this many many times before lol
Good point man, he did everything right except he didn't support the bearing race underneath. The race would have popped straight out the bottom
:57 proti0, i wouldnt wrap your arm around the cheater bar, rather pass my palms into so you don't accidently slam your knuckles into the pavement, ask me how I know
I think your bearing might've been fine. It's likely the bushing that was causing the creak and play in the tire.
Why is Greg's content just the best Miata stuff on RUclips 👌
Worked like a charm. I built a jig sandwiching two 24" x6s and a piece of USB between them with a 3" hole drilled into the center about 2" deep. It made removal and installation a breeze. I put a spare hub into a subzero freezer for a couple days before doing the jobm and it nearly slid in with hand pressure.
The hubs are 50$ for both I think on rock auto if anyone needs them !
Hmm normally prices go up over the years for inflation and all that other stuff. One rear wheel hub for a Miata is now 11 bucks. 22 for both rears. So glad I didn't need one when they were 25 a piece!
I love rockauto, but the shipping is killer
without a doubt the BEST Miata channel!all the way from London UK I salute u sir!
You did a good job BUT one important thing you missed is that the last step in putting the hub / flange back into the bearin you NEED to support the bearing on the center race as to press / tap the hub / flang into the center of the bearing ?? OR the bearing wil / can get damaged as a result of hitting the balls against the race. So if you ar doing this job agin soon you will know why !
So glad I just redid all my bushings and replaced all the bolts and more with new hardware so if and when it comes replacing my wheel bearings will be easy!
Next time put your bearing in the freezer for a couple of hours before you put it in the hub.
What for?
Overworld Newsfeed it makes it shrink a little bit helps making it go in easier
Next time be careful when hammering in the new bearings. One of the inner rings fell out for us once. (and then you have to clean it up a bit) since then we always bolt the 2 inner parts together with big washers (just like your axle would hold them together).
If you use the old bearing to push/hammer in the new one it's a good idea to grind it down just a tiny bit so it won't get stuck if you have to push it in further (usually its a deeper hole on other cars at the front wheel)
Also be careful when putting in the spindle. The inner ring can fall out that time, too. We usually rest said ring on a metal tube that holds up the whole assembly and tap in the spindle that way.
Thanks for the videos, they're meticulous and easy to understand.
Love the channel much like all your other subs.
keep up the great work!
Had me dying with that bearing box, another great video.
+Connor Wilburn Haha I was hoping someone would find the humor in that
I'm doing rear wheel bearing on my is300. Good to see other mechanics doing their thing
Good video! Maybe the timing video will help me for next time! Haha
+Ricer Miata Haha I was thinking about that when I saw your timing belt videos, I was too slow!
+TheCarPassionChannel it's all good it's running now! Just need a tire
Ricer Miata Get those fenders taken care of yet? I wanna see baller stance on that thing.
+TheCarPassionChannel fenders will fix themselves haha
+Ricer Miata son he should take them fenders off lol. Clearance for days.
Just had my rear driver bearing fail on my 90. I had more luck hitting the socket (to remove bearing) with the hammer part of the slide hammer. Easy to hold and the large flat surface area made for hard, even, hits.
I've actually got a "ghetto press".
Back when I had a MINI, I needed to replace my control arm bushings. But, I didn't want to drop the entire subframe on an FF car (which everybody would tell you to do). So, I cut the old one out with a reciprocating saw, and I pressed the new one in using a large ~8" bolt stud that had large washers on either side. All I did was ratchet the washers toward each other with a nut, and boom, done. The trickiest part was maneuvering in the tight space.
+Brice Burchett Excellent.
The slide hammer kit has a threaded rod/bolt for the small puller. The bolt can be used on the hub attachment and just ratchet the hub off.
Love the bang bing boom , very accessible for inexperienced and forgetful folks, only allows 1 thumb up.
Very helpful. I skipped the slide hammer and just removed the hub and bearing assembly. A 23mm socket will knock out the hub (rather then use the slider puller). The 32m. Will knock out the rest of the bearing. One less tool!
The weekend before , I had to hacksaw the outer rusted bushing bolt, replace the bushings and a new bolt.
At 9:00 you realise you changed a perfect working bearing, and the squaking sound come from the boushing. 😉
Negative. The bushing had play, but the rotational squeaking and whirring was from the bad bearing.
Use a bearing separator to move it away from it's seat, then use a gear puller to remove it.
Hey so I just picked up my first ever 90' na identical to yours and I can already tell your videos will be referenced a lot haha love your vids man!
i hope its still in good condition!
Another great video Greg!!!!, And yes a timing video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
you did everything right except when hammering the hub back in the bearing! you´ve got to put a socket under the inner bearing race so the force is actually transfered only by the inner race! the way you did it the force went through the balls of the bearing and slightly damaged them! i estimat about 30000miles and you have to put in another wheelbearing!
+slopestyler95 I'm gonna throw an annotation into the video about that right now.
+TheCarPassionChannel Thanks! because doing it twice is no fun! ;)
slopestyler95 Agreed. I wish annotations worked on mobile, but it's in there nonetheless. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
Yeah i was gonna say everything in this vid was bang on. Just the hub reinstall was no good for the bearing.
excellent video. I like how you had everything prepared with the spanners ready on the nuts. Good east explanation. I need to do the adductor ABS rings on my BMW E92.
One and most important thing that you missed to mentioned... KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN!!! If you get any dirt in there you will increase wear and shorten the life of your bearings .
loving these videos making me confidant that if i get a na ill have the resources to get things done
You should have heated the hub and then removed and installed the bearing it comes out/ goes in much easier also you should have kept the new bearing in the freezer , so during install it could fit easily in the hub without a need for banging the crap out of the new bearing
beside that nice video :-)
+Ovais Saand Sweet tip! Bearing in the freezer, duh what a great idea. Most excellent.
altafari
Not sure if joking or serious.....
Dead serious. Sincerely thanks.
Oh okay no problem..
bear AND hub to the freezer!
Damn. You're a couple weeks late. I had a bearing and hub fail a few weeks ago and had to have a shop help me (cringe). Plus I just moved and don't have tools :(. Keep up the awesome videos!
Warning! When installing the hub always support the bearing from the back... talking from experience. I damaged the first bearing I installed for not knowing that.
You should have something against the bearing when beating hub back (i once ruined new bearing in press because i forgot to do it :D)
+WoodlandCustoms Will remember that next time!
I'm not following what you're trying to say here?
This really is the ultimate channel for miatas
Cut and chisel for the win!!!
Very informative! What an excellent DIY video! Kudos man! 👍🏻
Great job!
Nice example of using hand tools to get this job done.
FMD, I reckon youre gonna be up there wid Eric dha Car Guy and South Main Auto Repair pretty soon. One of the better wheel bearing replacement vidz out there on UTube.
If ur going to go thru all this trouble to remove parts and old bearing. Make sure, that you press new bearing into spindle. Yes press. if you don't have a press, take it to a press shop. Hammering a new bearing into spindle can and will damage new bearing. Have doubts? call parts store where you purchased new bearing or any reputable service shop and ask them.
The axle nut is supposed to be staked. You wack the tightened nut with a chisel or punch where the axle has a groove, that holds it tight. Good video, thanks!
+DFNY Ah I totally forgot to add that clip in the video as I was rushing to finish before it got dark. Will add an annotation for that, thank for mentioning.
bro, this channel is sick.
DUDE!!! Your the best....thank you. I'm now ready to tackle mine.
Yeah good luck guy because if you follow with this guy did then you'll be a moron just like him you don't use a lump Hammer to put a freaking bearing in the race in the hub. That's what I mean people who don't know watch these videos and wanted to either getting killed or hurt, try not to put your wife and kids in your car after you do it his way
Legend man been looking for a guide to change just the bearing you saved my life haha
Good job, I was thinking a bushing video would be good, when you ran into your bushing problem. Looking forward to the video!
A bench vise would be nice lol
good video loved it!
i have some concerns about your grease statement. yes it will make it easier but you do not want to get grease on rubber parts it will eat them. (so i'm told)
what is recommended is anti seize. (so i have been told)
just what i have learned from car fanatics looking forward to the new videos.
PS: grinders are really cheap get a Chicago electric grinder from HF i use it a lot with cutting and grinding when i have to fab stuff for welding.
+XmackattackX I thought about this as well after filming the video, I would agree that anti-seize is a better option.
Got the whole assembly at my local junkyard for like $ 35
yay new episodes! just so you know this is my favorite car channel (yes even over mcm) can't wait to see more.
+Cameron Jones Over MCM?! Madness!
When I first started watching them a lot of what they did applied to me but the farther along they make it the more it's just neat stuff. I'm a marine and I've been waiting about 8 months to start work on my second miata. You're a funny guy and everything you post I can apply in my own life. More than just entertainment you know?
+Cameron Jones Much appreciated. I try to design the videos to be easy to understand for people that are just getting started, but still helpful to more experienced mechanics.
Lmao the brand of the bearing, sad but hilarious
It does not mean anything i Slovakia where it's made. lol
His auto parts store guys are maybe not so subtle trolls.
lmfao, those are the bearings my friend got for his 924
That hub came off scary easy lol
I love those rims together with the fat tires.
Keep them vids coming :D
Its very interesting. If you have a rusty hub like this on a BMW like an e46, the brakes will go crazy.
that was awesome! thanks I wish I had sern this before I wimped out and paid a mechanic to change my wheel bearing the exact same one btw.
huuuuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyyyyy up with the timing belt video dude. im doing mine right after i watch your video. flyin miata timing tool i have will also help a bunch, but hurry with that video. oh and keep it funny as always.
+Shamari Henry Look for it Wednesday morning! It's gonna be a long one... tried to keep it as detailed as I could. Oh and added a nice little intro skit for the funnys, lol.
+TheCarPassionChannel adda' boy
Hey dude great video. I'm looking into a miata for my next car and cant wait to watch how broke and boosted goes!
just found your videos man. great work! you had me at miata and now I'm subscribed
+Andrew Margello Welcome aboard!
So much enjoyed and benefited the video, thank you very much.
this guy is on point except its 175 for brand new bearings AND hubs for BOTH sides
+zachary branker The bearings are only $30 each, just a matter of $$ vs. amount of work.
great video, this looks like the same exact process i need to do on my Fd3s . thankfully mazda keeps the designs similar across platforms
Sometimes heating up the part and freezing the bearing helps putting things back together
+UpstateTriumphST I meant to freeze the bearing and I just spaced out, probably would have made it a lot easier.
Yup freezing my pilot bearing and seal was the way to go.
your a darn good mechanic and thanks for the video.
Thank you this job i need too do on my mk2.5
If you add some heat direct to the race it will come off much easier.
The wheel hubs are actually way cheaper than you said. less than$25 Canadian each!
Excellent very help full.
You wonderful wonderful beast. Mine just started this last time I drove it, so excellent timing
+25 Media Love that. Good luck!
you just saved me so much cash!
Definitely need to do this for my miata soon
Awesome video! Waiting for the timing belt video here ;)
Thanks man. Another great video
freaking awesome ! thanks bro
You should do a pros and cons of a miata
Pros: Miata Is Always The Answer M.I.A.T.A. Cons: zero
I don't have time to check all the comments to see if this has already been mentioned but: You should NEVER put grease on threads!
Doing my rear wheel bearings on a miata was not a fun....one of the hardest i have ever done.....broke my bearing puller it was so stuck in there...when i changed all my bushings out i went for polly i also drilled into the bushing housings and put zurk fittings in there so if there ever make noise i could greese them....
+Gregory Feeley Yeah if the axles are seized in the hubs like my original axles were when I got the car, it's basically impossible to do this job without a press. I had to remove my axle and hub and bring it to a shop to be pressed out when I did the Torsen swap.
Impressive methods.
"set it up on my wood, and get a good whack at it" hahahaha
nice one. cant wait for the timing video thats up for me next too.
+christopher mitton Hoping to have it up Wednesday, it's going to take a long time to edit it, it's the longest install yet.
+TheCarPassionChannel have all my timing belt goodies from mazda waiting. hoping this video might help me through. As always great video. Keep it up dewd!
The old fun ass girl bearings
People, After removing the hub, take it to a shop with a press, pay $25 and be done 20 minutes after you get back home from shop, no sense in working till dark to save $25
If you ever need a video topic I would love to see how you did your proportion valve install. Keep up the great work just bought my self a Miata.
+Sabura Bunuru Cool! The prop valve is actually super ease to install when you get the Wilwood valve with the Miata adaptor kit from 949 Racing. Unthread the lines from the stock valve, thread them into the new one, bleed your brakes.
Sweet thanks for the info :)
Awesome! I did this job myself but couldn't get video of it because I had to work fast. Thanks for doing a great video on this. I did the exact same method except I had the right side inner race pop out. So I will have to redo the right rear. Lame!
+NickelNDiminIt Yeah I added an annotation about supporting the inner race while smacking the hub in, but I don't think they show up on mobile.
+TheCarPassionChannel Regardless you're doing great things and we all appreciate the work. I think I have like 6 videos to edit. I am trying to get another paper published, so my time is hella cramped right now. Projects like broke and boosted help keep me sane. Keep up the good work and Thanks!
Changing my wheel hub and this video was a lifesaver (as were the comments). Greg killin it, as usual, even four years ago.
One thing that I ran into on my '93: there's a little indentation in the end of the axle, and the extra material on the outside end of the axle nut is actually hammered into that indentation a little bit to lock the nut in place. You have to tap it back out before the axle nut will turn at all. Wasted an EMBARRASSING amount of time wondering why that nut wasn't coming off even throwing all of my usual tricks at it.
How TF did you get the axel nut off
Much respect great vid, u look like chris pratt, wheres the rest of your team star lord
Thank you man!
yay timing belt!:) Looking forward to that,because I'm thinking about changing it too ^.^
I’m having trouble removing the bottom bolt, the 21mm one. I can get the nut off but after that the bolt won’t budge