As much as I think missing the z flashing was an issue, I loved the basic idea of using sheet plywood to create the board and batten look, and a super durable siding at low cost. Keep re-caulking the horizontal joints religiously, and I think it will last well, great work!!
I can’t believe that 710 views and only double digit likes. This man works his butt off and let’s us into his world. Simon is amazing! Thanks 🙏 Simon! Nice work!I wish we had RUclips for DH. Thorough...
This is actually pretty damn cool because it looks descent, it's relatively cheap and like you mentioned it seals things up even better than boards. Win on all fronts.
You prolly dont care but if you are stoned like me during the covid times you can stream all of the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. Been binge watching with my brother for the last few days :)
I see that this video was made 4 years ago. Now I am wondering how that plywood has done throughout the years. Are you exposed to extreme weather conditions such as cold and snow in your state? Thank you
It’s still holding up really well! We live in a warm climate that only gets snow once or twice a year but we do have extreme heat and termites but this has held up really well so far.
Great Video IS THEIR ANOTHER WAY TO INSTALL WITHOUT THE ADAPTERS TO THE FASCIA . I AM PURCHAING MATRIEL AT LOWES AND THEY DO NOT HAVE THE ATTACHMEWNTS TO THE 5IN VINYL GUTTERS
Great upload!! Well done and very informative!! Just curious as to why you didn't just frame in the lower part to the basement? Like a little mud room area or whatever? ✌️ from Iowa!!
I actually wanted to but mentioned it to my wife and she didn’t like the idea. However at any point it would be pretty simple to close it in if we change our minds.
The overall look is ok, I prefer the 1x4s whole 16" centers boxing the window in makes it look way nicer and going with white might as well use composite. Not a fan of the barely vented soffit and there will be issues where the plywood edges butted together. Less issues with tongue and groove. Screws hold better than siding nails in this style of application.
Yes, I imagine you could use plywood for the battens. Solid wood will probably hold up better for long term as the thin strips of plywood may peal apart over time. I have seen the horizontal battens to cover the seams before. I would just recommend cover the seam with caulk and then along the top of the horizontal board too as this board may catch rain water. Hope that helps!
Great video! So once you had the addition framed and studded, you put plywood up against it, then wrapped it in the house wrap, and then the plywood for the board and batten? I’m new to this. I always assumed the board and batten went directly to the studs and didn’t realize there is another layer of plywood beneath that as well as the house wrap. My house is older and doesn’t have the wrap and just realized this was a thing. Thank you
Good question. The house wrap is a fairly new development as my house that was built in 1966 and it doesn't have have a house wrap on it. The wraps help seal any moisture that makes it through the first layer of siding. It also protects the projects and repels rain if the siding doesn't go up right away. From what understand, the first layer of sheeting is standard no matter what type of siding you end up using. this first laying of sheeting is important to the structures strength. Most types of siding need that first sheeting layer in order to mount to as well. This type of board and baton uses full sheets so it seems redundant but should be standard for any residential buildings. Thanks! I hope this helps :)
I don't think the guy answered your question which happened to be the same one I had. After rewinding the vid a couple times I believe he has his 2x4 framing, then he has 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulation Board, Then he has the vinyl house wrap, then he has vertically installed 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. CDX Plywood as opposed to installing it the correct way... horizontally.
@@SimonSaysDIY After rewinding the vid a couple times I believe he has his 2x4 framing, then he has 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulation Board, Then he has the vinyl house wrap, then he has vertically installed 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. CDX Plywood as opposed to installing it the correct way... horizontally.
We first put chipboard sheeting over the studs to frame it in. Then we used Tyvek house wrap or moisture barrier. this is in case any moisture manages to get behind the board and batten. Then we put the exterior plywood and battens on top. Then sealed it with 2-3 coats of exterior paint. I hope that helps.
@@manuelitowheeler7310 I wouldn't recommend it. The chipboard is part of the strength of the structure. The thin plywood is only meant for a siding on top of the chip board frame. However, with that said there are some applications such as sheds, barns or small garages that may be fine to only use the plywood. For houses I would recommend both. Hope that helps! Thanks!
I imagine you can. But it may be difficult when there are obstacles to work with like windows. the main benefit to building it on the wall is that you can make sure each batten is staying plum vertically even if the plywood isn't.
We are buying a house. I done a lot of renovations to our house. I have the back garage covered up with 1/4 plywood. I wanted to just put the trimming on it, but I was worried that it will still rott
I did not, I don't really like the look of Z channel right next to the porch at eye level so we sealed the joint with caulking instead. This placement doesn't get much moisture and as long as we keep that joint sealed its fine. We haven't had any issues but I would recommend using Z channel. Thanks!
Thanks! the plywood is 4 feet wide, so the battens need to be on measurements that multiply to be 4 feet equally. Centering the batten on 8in, 12in, or 16in marks will work perfectly to cover up the joints in the plywood. I hope that helps! We used 12 inch marks and centered the battens on those.
No we didn’t use it. Instead we sealed the backside and the joint with caulking. Honestly this wont last as long, you may need to recaulk the joint after several years. But it looks so much better than the z bar flashing. As long as you keep the joint caulked and the plywood painted it will stay dry and last.
Here is the materials we used. 5 - Sheets of 1\2 exterior grade plywood 2 - 1lb. Boxes of 2in galvanized nails (mounting plywood) 25 - primed 1x4x8 (for battens and trim) 1 - box of 2 1/2 inch finish nails (Mounting battens and trim) 2 - tubes of exterior calking
the boards are slightly smaller that 4in but I just found the center of the board and then set the table saw to cut the center of the line. I believe is was close to 1 7/8in wide for both sides.
i have questions sir, how far apart are the battens? do you just measure from the end and each one to get them placed or do you use a level on each and every one? how do you know you are hitting the studs with that?(is the inside of the room not insulated or drywalled yet?) where the plywood boards meet top to bottom why did you not install z channel?
Thanks! We actually had some issues with carpenter bees on our deck right beside it so I filled all of the holes and put up several traps and it took care of the problem. I haven’t had any issues with the bees getting my new siding but I think the key is to paint it as soon as possible. Carpenter bees will avoid painted surfaces for the most part
It's strange you didn't trim out the window with a trim the same size as your corner pieces. And, it's now "weather tight" until you finish the joists underneath. And I'll offer this. There's absolutely no need to cut a 45 degree miter on joints. A 22.5 degree miter is just fine. Pro Tip: Always pre-prime the back side of all Bats and prime all joints before you install those particular Back priming extends the life of the wood. Bats. Pro tip #2: prime everything before you do the caulking. Then it's much easier to caulk a painted surface than raw wood.
I'm wondering how this has held up now that it's been over a year? This video is the first search result on to RUclips for board and batten. It's also the only video using full pieces of plywood rather than 10 to 12 in boards with 1/4 in spacing that gets covered with the bats. I imagine using full pieces of plywood will cause warping and twisting and pulling out the nails.
It has actually held up really well so far. The nails held really well and only warped is one small area but with 2 more nails the issue was fixed. I think the key to this working is having it sealed from moisture with a few coats of paint. over all really happy with it. :)
Looks good. But you will have issues when (not if) moisture gets behind the plywood. Some half inch strips mounted under the ply to create an air gap to allow moisture to dry would have added years to it.
Thanks! Yes, the 1x4s are pine boards that come painted white. These can be used for internal use as well as external. As long as you put a good coat of paint over all the wood to seal it the pine 1x4s will last. Keeping it sealed and dry is key.
My mother is currently looking to board and batten her newly completely gutted and remodeled home. I didn't know you could leave plywood exposed like this. Every diy that I have seen, if using plywood, they cover it with another wood for siding. This looks great but will it hold up over time?
Some plywoods are meant for exterior use like the one we used. Plywood like this is used for framing in the fascia and soffit all the time. This can work for siding and last a long time if you keep it sealed well with paint and the area stays relatively dry. With an overhang from the roof and gutters, it is shielded from most of the weather and stays dry.
Ah, this is not board and batten siding- this is plywood sheet siding with decorative strips to imitate board and batten. IT won't have the movement that boards do and on the flip side, plywood is prone to delamination. That said, if you keep it painted well it should hold up fine!
Bro use hardie board. All that work and it’s going to have to be replaced in 10 years at best. No flashing and seams like that, you could get 50 years out of proper job. With that said, if you going to do a quick flip and don’t care about long term, or it’s a tiny area like you did and you don’t care about ripping off and re doing every ten years then plywood is an option but always use flashing with proper joints and I would highly recommend rain screen behind board
We used 11/32 plywood and then primed pine 1x4's for the strips. heres the link for the plywood we used. www.homedepot.com/p/11-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Rtd-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Plywood-Sheathing-112590/100003677#product-overview
Don't skimp on the cheap caulk my man! You're going to be re-doing that every 4 years. Also, that does not look like exterior ply and you need to put some type of rainscreen behind your panel even when using Hardie (the correct product for this application)
That is NOT Board and Batten. At best Faux Board and Batten. Board and Batten is named for the vertical wider boards, with thinner battens covering the gaps. Looks nice tho.
Thanks! I guess it is a preference. The brick used for our house was a really dated color for back in the 60s. It looks old and dirty. Thanks for watching! :)
Honestly. It looks like painted plywood with a horrible looking seam that will not age well. Should have put a larger baton horizontally (slightly angled at the top for pitch) over the seam making a tutor style gable & used T-11 for the ruff cut look for ad additional total of $0-50. My rule: If it's something a new builder wouldn't do LOSE IT! it's not right.
Actually as long as you keep it sealed and painted it last perfectly fine. So far, 4 years later, there’s no issues. The floor joists underneath was insulated and sealed up right after this video. The basement that was built in 66 has 7 foot ceilings so that explains the door at this height.
You did all that then left a gap in the plywood, looks bad and lets moisture in, get 10ft sheets mbo ply it is smooth finish and if you need a break use horizontal straps then start vertically again after the break. Also you need to use the same batting or wider round the window so it looks finished properly. This wasn’t a great tutorial. Also put straps under the ply not straight on the sheething ply and out some ridged insulation in between
As much as I think missing the z flashing was an issue, I loved the basic idea of using sheet plywood to create the board and batten look, and a super durable siding at low cost. Keep re-caulking the horizontal joints religiously, and I think it will last well, great work!!
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😁
Thanks for making this video. I have an old shed on my farm I’m refurbishing and I think this is how I’ll do the exterior. 👍
Nice! I’m in the process of doing my whole house this way. I’m using butyle tape under the seams where my plywood come together. Good job guys!
Sounds great! Good luck with your project!
I can’t believe that 710 views and only double digit likes. This man works his butt off and let’s us into his world. Simon is amazing! Thanks 🙏 Simon! Nice work!I wish we had RUclips for DH. Thorough...
great video! also 7:18 cracks me up. Cat didn't want the door closed! LOL
Thanks! haha yeah, he loves when the door is open.
love the time lapse!!!!!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Great learning video. Looks beautiful. Thank you!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Nicely done.
Thanks!
This is actually pretty damn cool because it looks descent, it's relatively cheap and like you mentioned it seals things up even better than boards. Win on all fronts.
Thanks!
Yeah this was my father-in-laws idea and I thought it was pretty great!
You prolly dont care but if you are stoned like me during the covid times you can stream all of the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. Been binge watching with my brother for the last few days :)
@Finn Reyansh Definitely, been watching on instaflixxer for since december myself =)
Great job! Love the cat.
Haha, Thank you! 😊
Your cat is flippin hilarious haha. She wants the door ope.
Yeah, it knows it's not allowed to go outside but it likes sitting in the doorway.
Thank you - what if you want to cover over old wood siding - any tips please?
what size sheeting did you use on the exterior of the house wrap?
They were 4x8 sheets of 5/8s plywood that is rated for exterior use.
Looks nice!!
Thanks so much!
Is it ok to use cdx sheathing for the board and batten if it's caulked and painted?
It’s been up quite a few years and haven’t had any issues.
Did you have plywood before you install the wrap? So you installed plywood then the wrap then exterior plywood?
Hows this holding up? Is it okay to put plywood directly over tyvrk wrapped osb without air gap?
I see that this video was made 4 years ago. Now I am wondering how that plywood has done throughout the years. Are you exposed to extreme weather conditions such as cold and snow in your state? Thank you
It’s still holding up really well! We live in a warm climate that only gets snow once or twice a year but we do have extreme heat and termites but this has held up really well so far.
What is behind the wrap? Others have asked as well, can you pls clarify. Thanks
Exterior OSB chipboard.
Great Video IS THEIR ANOTHER WAY TO INSTALL WITHOUT THE ADAPTERS TO THE FASCIA . I AM PURCHAING MATRIEL AT LOWES AND THEY DO NOT HAVE THE ATTACHMEWNTS TO THE 5IN VINYL GUTTERS
Great upload!! Well done and very informative!! Just curious as to why you didn't just frame in the lower part to the basement? Like a little mud room area or whatever? ✌️ from Iowa!!
Thanks! 😄
I actually wanted to but mentioned it to my wife and she didn’t like the idea. However at any point it would be pretty simple to close it in if we change our minds.
@@SimonSaysDIY Absolutely!! Oh and "happy wife = happy life" right? Lol thanks again!
Where the two plywood’s come together horizontally you should have used a flashing and head flashing above your windows
do you mean z channel?
💯
I wanted to add Z flashing as I watched! Caulk fails in time, but maybe they re-caulk every 4 years, they might be fine.
The overall look is ok, I prefer the 1x4s whole 16" centers boxing the window in makes it look way nicer and going with white might as well use composite. Not a fan of the barely vented soffit and there will be issues where the plywood edges butted together. Less issues with tongue and groove. Screws hold better than siding nails in this style of application.
Thanks so much for the advice! I appreciate it :)
Can I use plywood as battens?, and can I use battens horizontally on those seems?
Yes, I imagine you could use plywood for the battens. Solid wood will probably hold up better for long term as the thin strips of plywood may peal apart over time. I have seen the horizontal battens to cover the seams before. I would just recommend cover the seam with caulk and then along the top of the horizontal board too as this board may catch rain water. Hope that helps!
Great video! So once you had the addition framed and studded, you put plywood up against it, then wrapped it in the house wrap, and then the plywood for the board and batten? I’m new to this. I always assumed the board and batten went directly to the studs and didn’t realize there is another layer of plywood beneath that as well as the house wrap. My house is older and doesn’t have the wrap and just realized this was a thing. Thank you
Good question. The house wrap is a fairly new development as my house that was built in 1966 and it doesn't have have a house wrap on it. The wraps help seal any moisture that makes it through the first layer of siding. It also protects the projects and repels rain if the siding doesn't go up right away. From what understand, the first layer of sheeting is standard no matter what type of siding you end up using. this first laying of sheeting is important to the structures strength. Most types of siding need that first sheeting layer in order to mount to as well. This type of board and baton uses full sheets so it seems redundant but should be standard for any residential buildings.
Thanks! I hope this helps :)
I don't think the guy answered your question which happened to be the same one I had. After rewinding the vid a couple times I believe he has his 2x4 framing, then he has 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulation Board, Then he has the vinyl house wrap, then he has vertically installed 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. CDX Plywood as opposed to installing it the correct way... horizontally.
@@SimonSaysDIY After rewinding the vid a couple times I believe he has his 2x4 framing, then he has 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulation Board, Then he has the vinyl house wrap, then he has vertically installed 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. CDX Plywood as opposed to installing it the correct way... horizontally.
Did you prime batons before installing
@@paulwagner9264 I did Hardie plank and bought Hardie battens which come primed and ready for paint
Hi. What is under the moisture barrier? Is the sandwich, plywood, moisture barrier, plywood and batten?
We first put chipboard sheeting over the studs to frame it in. Then we used Tyvek house wrap or moisture barrier. this is in case any moisture manages to get behind the board and batten. Then we put the exterior plywood and battens on top. Then sealed it with 2-3 coats of exterior paint. I hope that helps.
@@SimonSaysDIY Your're the man, thanks.
@@SimonSaysDIY I wonder if you could eliminate the chipboard?
@@manuelitowheeler7310 I wouldn't recommend it. The chipboard is part of the strength of the structure. The thin plywood is only meant for a siding on top of the chip board frame. However, with that said there are some applications such as sheds, barns or small garages that may be fine to only use the plywood. For houses I would recommend both.
Hope that helps!
Thanks!
Can you make the board and batten before you put it on the house to do the painting of it?
I imagine you can. But it may be difficult when there are obstacles to work with like windows. the main benefit to building it on the wall is that you can make sure each batten is staying plum vertically even if the plywood isn't.
We are buying a house. I done a lot of renovations to our house. I have the back garage covered up with 1/4 plywood. I wanted to just put the trimming on it, but I was worried that it will still rott
Did you add Z channel?
I did not, I don't really like the look of Z channel right next to the porch at eye level so we sealed the joint with caulking instead. This placement doesn't get much moisture and as long as we keep that joint sealed its fine. We haven't had any issues but I would recommend using Z channel.
Thanks!
what plywood did you use? do you have a lowes or home depot link? thanks
1. Why didnt you center the window? 2. Why didnt you put trim around the window?
Looks nice , how far a part does the the battens are?
Thanks! the plywood is 4 feet wide, so the battens need to be on measurements that multiply to be 4 feet equally. Centering the batten on 8in, 12in, or 16in marks will work perfectly to cover up the joints in the plywood.
I hope that helps! We used 12 inch marks and centered the battens on those.
How thick of a board do you need?
1/2in exterior plywood and the battens were 5/8in.
dang , great idea,using the ply i am going to use that on small off grid cabin i am building ,
save $$$ thanks
Thanks! I'm glad it could help!
No Z-bar where plywood joined at the ends?
No we didn’t use it. Instead we sealed the backside and the joint with caulking. Honestly this wont last as long, you may need to recaulk the joint after several years. But it looks so much better than the z bar flashing. As long as you keep the joint caulked and the plywood painted it will stay dry and last.
@@SimonSaysDIY Your building inspectors must be more tolerant than where I live. I could never get away with that.
No flashing ??
The plywood was so thin that on the seam we just filled it with exterior calk.
@@SimonSaysDIY z flashing
would have used Z channel between top panels and lower panels, caulk won't work over time.
Yes, I’m going to keep an eye on it. But a z channel is a good idea. Next time I will use it.
Thanks!
What does the z channel do. what would you use instead of caulking? Sealant maybe?
Do you have a materials list?
Here is the materials we used.
5 - Sheets of 1\2 exterior grade plywood
2 - 1lb. Boxes of 2in galvanized nails (mounting plywood)
25 - primed 1x4x8 (for battens and trim)
1 - box of 2 1/2 inch finish nails (Mounting battens and trim)
2 - tubes of exterior calking
What measurement did u rip the 1x4 to?
the boards are slightly smaller that 4in but I just found the center of the board and then set the table saw to cut the center of the line. I believe is was close to 1 7/8in wide for both sides.
@@SimonSaysDIY A 1x4 is 3.5 wide. So half is 1 and 3/4. Minus the kerf of the blade, probably about 1 and 5/8 per side.
Looks great man!! Did you just caulk the vertical seams also?
Yes we did, its not as crucial because the battens cover up the seams if spaced right. however its good to be safe and use a bead of calk anyways.
i have questions sir, how far apart are the battens? do you just measure from the end and each one to get them placed or do you use a level on each and every one? how do you know you are hitting the studs with that?(is the inside of the room not insulated or drywalled yet?) where the plywood boards meet top to bottom why did you not install z channel?
Good questions...
Why wasn’t the window centred?
What thickness if plywood did you use?
We used 1/2 or 5/8 inch exterior plywood.
Thanks!
Any problems with carpenter bees? I know they love wood 😞
Thanks! We actually had some issues with carpenter bees on our deck right beside it so I filled all of the holes and put up several traps and it took care of the problem. I haven’t had any issues with the bees getting my new siding but I think the key is to paint it as soon as possible. Carpenter bees will avoid painted surfaces for the most part
It's strange you didn't trim out the window with a trim the same size as your corner pieces. And, it's now "weather tight" until you finish the joists underneath.
And I'll offer this. There's absolutely no need to cut a 45 degree miter on joints. A 22.5 degree miter is just fine. Pro Tip: Always pre-prime the back side of all Bats and prime all joints before you install those particular Back priming extends the life of the wood. Bats. Pro tip #2: prime everything before you do the caulking. Then it's much easier to caulk a painted surface than raw wood.
Thanks for the tips!
I'm wondering how this has held up now that it's been over a year? This video is the first search result on to RUclips for board and batten. It's also the only video using full pieces of plywood rather than 10 to 12 in boards with 1/4 in spacing that gets covered with the bats.
I imagine using full pieces of plywood will cause warping and twisting and pulling out the nails.
It has actually held up really well so far. The nails held really well and only warped is one small area but with 2 more nails the issue was fixed. I think the key to this working is having it sealed from moisture with a few coats of paint. over all really happy with it. :)
Looks good. But you will have issues when (not if) moisture gets behind the plywood. Some half inch strips mounted under the ply to create an air gap to allow moisture to dry would have added years to it.
There is no drainage layer behind the plywood...
I had a whole house built that way.
Awesome! Thanks for watching! 😁
Great video and exactly what I needed. Is the 1x4 moulding rated for exterior? I am having so much trouble finding something rated for outside.
Thanks! Yes, the 1x4s are pine boards that come painted white. These can be used for internal use as well as external. As long as you put a good coat of paint over all the wood to seal it the pine 1x4s will last. Keeping it sealed and dry is key.
My mother is currently looking to board and batten her newly completely gutted and remodeled home. I didn't know you could leave plywood exposed like this. Every diy that I have seen, if using plywood, they cover it with another wood for siding. This looks great but will it hold up over time?
Some plywoods are meant for exterior use like the one we used. Plywood like this is used for framing in the fascia and soffit all the time. This can work for siding and last a long time if you keep it sealed well with paint and the area stays relatively dry. With an overhang from the roof and gutters, it is shielded from most of the weather and stays dry.
Ah, this is not board and batten siding- this is plywood sheet siding with decorative strips to imitate board and batten. IT won't have the movement that boards do and on the flip side, plywood is prone to delamination. That said, if you keep it painted well it should hold up fine!
Flashing missing over the window head. Also installing ply wood directly over your WRB will trap water.
What’s Mbo?
No Z bar flashing????
No, we didn't want the seam show that much. We filled the gap and behind the sheets with calk to seal the joint.
Bro use hardie board. All that work and it’s going to have to be replaced in 10 years at best. No flashing and seams like that, you could get 50 years out of proper job. With that said, if you going to do a quick flip and don’t care about long term, or it’s a tiny area like you did and you don’t care about ripping off and re doing every ten years then plywood is an option but always use flashing with proper joints and I would highly recommend rain screen behind board
Thanks for the tips! 😄
I’d rather paint every 5-7 years than replace every 20 -30 with vinyl.
So once maaaaaaybe twice in a life time is alot? Serious question. @terrycain3843
I totally agree about the rain guard. It would allow ventilation for the wood to dry in back otherwise it would sweat behind and start to develop mold
What type of boards did you guys use ? Doing the same thing . Pine sanded sheets ? 1/4 inch ?
We used 11/32 plywood and then primed pine 1x4's for the strips.
heres the link for the plywood we used.
www.homedepot.com/p/11-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Rtd-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Plywood-Sheathing-112590/100003677#product-overview
Don't skimp on the cheap caulk my man! You're going to be re-doing that every 4 years. Also, that does not look like exterior ply and you need to put some type of rainscreen behind your panel even when using Hardie (the correct product for this application)
That is NOT Board and Batten. At best Faux Board and Batten. Board and Batten is named for the vertical wider boards, with thinner battens covering the gaps. Looks nice tho.
One look at 8:36 - and it just screams "THIS IS PLYWOOD". Sorry man.
Thats alright :) Thanks for watching!
So what? Still looks good
Great video of baord and batten. Still don't understand why people paint brick and stone.
Thanks! I guess it is a preference. The brick used for our house was a really dated color for back in the 60s. It looks old and dirty.
Thanks for watching! :)
Should’ve used a Z bar
Like 👍
Thanks!
Yeah now when sell that home later especially the new owners will be uninsureable and not inspectioned or licensed contractor
That's not bored in Batten siding
You’re right, but it achieves the same look on a smaller budget.
Honestly. It looks like painted plywood with a horrible looking seam that will not age well. Should have put a larger baton horizontally (slightly angled at the top for pitch) over the seam making a tutor style gable & used T-11 for the ruff cut look for ad additional total of $0-50. My rule: If it's something a new builder wouldn't do LOSE IT! it's not right.
Thanks for the tips!
So many things wrong here. Fuck I’m shocked.
Wow I’m sure that is not the best ideas to give homeowners for a house maybe good for a shed… 😂
Not worth the time to watch 😕
Sorry to hear that. Thanks for the feedback! :)
But it was worth ur time to post a comment…Brilliant ;)
This will not last. Painted plywood, with caulked batons? What's up with the door that barely clears your exposed joists? 😢 Stop making videos.
Actually as long as you keep it sealed and painted it last perfectly fine. So far, 4 years later, there’s no issues. The floor joists underneath was insulated and sealed up right after this video. The basement that was built in 66 has 7 foot ceilings so that explains the door at this height.
You did all that then left a gap in the plywood, looks bad and lets moisture in, get 10ft sheets mbo ply it is smooth finish and if you need a break use horizontal straps then start vertically again after the break. Also you need to use the same batting or wider round the window so it looks finished properly. This wasn’t a great tutorial. Also put straps under the ply not straight on the sheething ply and out some ridged insulation in between