How to: Lightsaber Acid Etching Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- www.krsabers.com/
*First and foremost, this process involves HARMFUL, CORROSIVE CHEMICALS WHICH CAN KILL YOU if used improperly. Adequate safety protection to prevent skin contact is necessary, and I do not take any responsibility for any personal or property damage incurred by the processes detailed in this tutorial. Safety goggles, vinyl full coverage gloves, full coverage clothing, and a fully protected work surface with a plastic barrier is necessary. DO NOT ATTEMPT the process outlined in this tutorial with any less than these minimum safety materials.**
Okay guys, so many of you who follow me on Facebook would have seen some of my work lately, which involves acid etching. I was inundated by messages and comments asking how I do it after spending the last month learning too. So I thought I'd give back and make a video tutorial on what I do. Yes I may not use gloves in the video or stand in a well ventilated area, but as explained in the video and the above statement, safety first!!!
Also, this is just the way I do it guys. There is no 'perfect' way. Learn some of the basics by watching my video and you can tweak and improve on your own methods. Everyone is different. This is 'Kaizen' thing. ;)
Enjoy guys!
if you don't have a lazer printer, you can use nail polish, or tattoo blue transfer paper and just trace your design by hand. Or use adhesive vinyl sheets and cut the design out with a craft knife 🌝. And if you don't want to use acid, you can do an electrolytic etch (anodizing!!). don't let process get in the way of your creating 🌝🌝
Will tattoo transfer paper work? I seeded nail polish ut it's too hard to paint detail with
I've actually used salt water and a 12 v battery to etch. It was a small project I did a test on. + to the part being etched, - to the etching lead. Qtips and cotton balls worked. Still do in well ventilated room as well as safety measures.
Good job, thanks! I am not making a "lightsaber", but a large sculptural piece with a curved piece of aluminum. Your video gave me the method in which I can do it! Thanks again
Great work and thanks for sharing..you've inspired me to try this. BTW, As long as you match (natively) the DPI in your document to the printer, raster/vector shouldn't matter (Although vector certainly makes things easier in terms of scaling) And Illustrator has better tools for creating abstract designs.
Can you drop a link to where you buy "Elbow Grease" ive looked and looked and cant find it any where
Bruh, he means putting effort in
Hey, if you still need help, I got you.
uk.lush.com/products/body-lotions/elbow-grease
@@hasinapervin4855 pretty sure its a joke.
Thankyou sir , through out the years I keep coming back to your builds and reveals
Can't believe I said PN-Poo! lol :D
That was hilarious! I was laughing out loud at work.
+KR Sabers you may also consider wearing a respirator
:D
pee and poo sounded about right to me xD
very informative thank you very much! i live in Wales so its always nice to see british tutorials, just makes you more confident in getting the same materials and so on I'm sure you think the same! thank you very much i will be applying this method to my swords!
Wow, fantastic etching there! Great tutorial, I've been rather reluctant to try etching in aluminum for saber hilts because of the mystery around the process, and the dangers aren't all that fun either. But this definitely helps me feel more confident experimenting in the near future. Beautiful Satele saber, by the way! Suburb craftsmanship. :)
Cracked up at 9:54 haha, awesome explanation though, Cheers!
fantastic explanation
I am a super fan of what you have done here. Thank you~
Thank you so much, I have been trying to figure out how to put my design on my saber parts in a way to do the acid etch.
Fantastic work and such a great learning video! I can't begin to express my appreciation!
Thanks for the detailed tutorial, really helpfull. One question, with a saber hilt whats the best way to close the ends so the inside doesnt get effected?
+Tony Celliers I cut some plastic discs around the same ID as the hilt, and then seal the bottoms with hot glue. That way its easy to peel away and makes a nice seal.
I just spray the inside with clear coating.
Thanks for putting this tutorial together.
these chems have no acid,
if anything it's a base :/
this works using an oxidation/ reduction reaction
still, really nice technique
You chemi-nazi ;)
The mixture is acidic - CuSO4 is acidic, and the NaCl is neutral and what removes the aluminum oxide off the surface of the part. When all combined. (CuSO4 + NaCl + Aluminum + H2O)
welldone bro !!! easy to follow and achieve !!!!
love the video and your work it's nice to get tips from someone who explains how to do things simple. does this work on other metals or just aluminium
Would I be able to do this on a double female threaded cylinder without harming the threads?
alot of duct tape or nail polish
165 degrees C is 329 fahrenheit
Thank you for posting this! Great tutorial.
So i'm giving this a try, but do i need to worry about the threads and the chassis fit afterwards? If so how do i protect the threads?
Do you need to remove the finish on the lightsaber parts, for the acid to react to the aluminum? I like the way that aluminum black won't react with the aluminum through a finish?
Thank you so much for doing this video
Question... was the metal used in this vid aluminum or steel?? Thanks' for the great vid!
+KR Sabers
Great video in all it's "modesty" (no offence).
I'm not at all into "this" but I still watched the whole video with great pleasure.
Btw I'm not sure, but I suspect the "orange/pink" stuff You rinse of is actually copper that has "deposited" in the reaction "replacing" the dissolved aluminium. Though I could be wrong (it was ages since I actually knew how this stuff worked)...and after all it's only "academic", what matters are the results...So good on You for sharing what You have worked hard to master.
Best regards.
Damm, i loved your image that you make the Etching on your entire saber. Do you have the archive to download? Im looking forward to make one with this. Its so cool!
I'm trying to get the design too, did you ever get a hold of it?
Does the solution mess with the threads on the inside of MHS parts?
So to set it straight you can’t use a basic printer with toner ink you need some fancy laser printer?
In your actual process for sabers do you protect the threading as well?
Always protect the threading. I'd recommend electrical tape for protection and then a sticker, "tighter" sticking tape to go over it to hold it in place.
SeerSmashChannel yeah 4 year old comment I turned this video into a very lucrative business called shadowcrestdesign for saber art. I do not use your method but I do protect the threading.
@@RondoSWTOR Wow, congrats on the success! I'll check out your business now :) what method do you use then to protect threads
Any suggestions on where to find blue PnP paper in the UK? Thanks!
Great video mate
Good tip. I liked very much. Where can I find the list of used material? The tubes are aluminum?
What's the ratio that you find best for a very deep etch? I'm in the planning stages of a sith costume that I'll need to do a lot of etching for.
Brilliant, thanks so much for this tutorial mate, big help!
Nice video thx
Hello I just got my first custom saber that was etched and I am noticing some areas where the design is flaking off. Is there anything I can do to prevent further damage? I've only had it for about a week and a half and I love the design and want to preserve it.
I'm not going to lie, I would give anything to know how to do things like this. It seems almost impossible to me to be able to get into saber crafting of this pristine caliber without help. I can barely take apart and reassemble my hasbro fx sabers lol
What do you call the spirally design used here? I’d like to have used the design you created yourself for a knife. Even to find something similar would be great.
sorry but I have to put it for 15 minutes in the oven at 165 and then wait 6/7 minutes and remove the sticker?
Hey KR Sabers, can I ask what about thread protection and protecting the internal finish of, say your KRS line (I am interested in weathering one of your saber hilts, but with the open 12mm hole, speaker holes etc....) How would the process be different if I wanted to etching some thing like that (for example, can you explain hot you protected the thread holes and the female threads of on the emitter and pommel end when you submerged the Shan saber for the etching?)
Thanks!
The chemicals seem interested in burning the inside of the aluminum and not the outside... any thoughts?
Long chance of you seeing this - I purchased aluminum sleeve material from TCSS, and when I use this process in your video, only the inside of the tube etches...not the outside...So CONFUSED...any tips?
It’s probably coated in an anti tarnishing coating. You’d need to sand the outside to ensure it’s raw aluminium and do a patch test
@@KRSabers Thank you, ill try that!
To start, great video. I'm not using this for a saber hilt, but I am having an issue with transferring. I wasn't able to get the PNP Blue locally, all I could find was some no name yellow stuff that claims it's PCB Transfer Paper. With using the oven and/or an iron, I'm having some serious adhesion issues. Am I not getting it hot enough, using the wrong stuff, or something else. Any help you could offer would help.
+Travis Robinson PNP blue is very high quality. It's around £1 a sheet for em to get it from the USA. But the quality is second to none. I would always recommend this type. I have never tried any alternatives.
+KR Sabers Roger that. Will try the real stuff. Thank you sir.
Have you tried using vinyl cut out decals instead. You could do that and a stencil to boot.
I haven’t no. I find that the exothermic reaction can often lift the vinyl ruining the entire part. It generates a lot of heat and bubbles.
@@KRSabers
That does make sense but this guy below in the link seems to have quite good success with it.
ruclips.net/video/XUVt4K3VXLM/видео.html
Hi, I know this is a little late, but yes, it works very well. I use the temporary vinyl, it holds really well (I do electro-etching) against a lot of heat. Actually it's almost like the vinyl slightly fuses to the metal... you can remove it easily with your fingernail, it's just that it's not going to just slide off once you get started.
on some websites, like Ultrasaber for example, they have pieces that have the copper or black metal look. Will this method effect those parts or only plain aluminum bits? also i'm guessing you really need to cover the threaded ends too, or will those be fine?
I am in the States, do you have a link to the PNP Blue you used? I also got some yellow stuff and it didnt work nearly as well.
Think it's this stuff: www.techniks.com/information.htm#pnpblueinfo
Does it affect the thread when you etch ?
Seal the ends
Does it need to be a laser printer? Can you use an inkjet?
Also, Will it not re-act to paint aswell (like how you used a sharpie or whatever) because i could transfer drawings over with stencils and paint then and it would be cheaper for me that way.
Hello. Me again. If I use 500 mils of each chemical how much water would I use? Need to know pretty soon. Working on my hilt today! Thanx man
How did you dispose of the mix?
+Maximino Echevarria It's technically root killer, so I just dispose mine behind some shrubbery in my garden.
What do you do with remaining chemical mix?
is there a good way to draw directly on the saber without having to use software?
What kind of piping do you use for these hilts and where do you get them?
Well done!
Nice....whats that blue paper again, can some1 link that thing?
Curious i am getting a saber or two. Obvious they cant do the etching since there bodies are pre built but i want etch a design into the body of the saber. What methods are there and which would you suggest beside the above one. I was thinking of doing this Technique on a adaptive saber part but some of parts have nice black area what would you suggest to cover those ares to be unaffected by this acid etching ? Thank you.
that's a beautiful hilt
“Do as I say not as I do”... XD
Great job. I'm searching around on doing a couple of my pistol barrels. Is there a way to contact you?
What metals does this work on? Brass? Copper? Steel? Bronze? ect....
Yes.
it will not work for copper,
simple redox chemistry
Yeah, you need to use another acid for copper. A lot of people do homemade PCB just go watch a tutorial and see what acid they use (probably something like ferric chloride)
How would you go about masking off threads? For example, MHS parts.
I used a thick coat of old enamel model paint. After etching I had to soak it in acetone and scrub it really good. I've heard of people using electrical tape or just a rubber plug in the end also
Maybe i missed this (my english isn't perfect), but does regular salt work the same as Sodium Chloride you used, or should i get a specific brand? Also, how do you dispose of the chemicals after you're done using them?
It will work he stated this to another person in the comment section
Khal you should of really neutralized the acid on the aluminum with baking soda and water just as a precaution
OMG! This is AWESOME!
Thanks for this. I've seen Oogli Saber's tutorial on The RPF here: www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=158539 but it's nice to see someone walk through it step by step on camera.
Are you building off of Ooglies specs? If so you know the size pieces needed to make it? Also would you have a template for the handle minus the design? I'd like to go Elvin or Occult for the design... Maybe Angelic Script.
+Hawaiian Punch No not building off Oogli specs. The design I made personally and took all the measurements personally. Unfortunately I cannot share any of the drawings due to the customers request.
Okeydokey
I'm working on my one grandmaster saberstaff. could you send me a copy of your design you did for the Satele Shan so I can acid ecth my hilt please?
What do you do with the acid once youve finished??
Is the metal aluminum or stainless steel?
talk about crazy chemistry your using a kitchen oven
Hey, I was wondering what you used for your tests as far as the tubes and where you got them
I just used scrap aluminium tubes from local engineering shops.
fantastic!
link to thread for build mentioned in video?
Will standard table salt work in lieu of pharmaceutical grade sodium chloride?
+Chandler Morris Sure :)
yes according to another RUclips video
Would you use the same amount of table salt as you would sodium chloride?
You're honestly such a baller
Thank you. :)
Where can I find the etching?
👍🏼
Wait so what kind of printer do you need
+A Gamer with a Namer Has to be a laser printer
wish i had the space, the patience and money to do this
"run your finger on the top of it, and if it's raised you know youve done a good job"
common.. am i the only one thinking about it ?
Shay Vidas dont
😂🙈
😂😅
Thats table salt?
Anywhere I can get one of these? I've wanted a satele saber for a while and have finally found one, respond back Asap pls, thanks!!
I have one question, wont this affect the threading on the inside of the piece? The thought just came to mind and you ARE dipping it into the acid so the acid is inevitably going to get onto the inside of the piece. Will that cause any problems or is it inconsequential?
Sabourok this is where secret tricks of the trade come in. I can't reveal all my secrets, but I always make sure my threads are protected. Thanks
Sabourok cover all your threads with enamel paint to protect them. Look up how to patina vape mods and you will learn about prep work and how to protect certain areas.
All you needed to say was "Yes, the acid will cause problems with the threading. You may want to look into different methods of protecting it." It would have been much less condescending.
Thank you for the helpful suggestion and pointing me in the right direction.
Sabourok no worries bud 👍👍 There's like 3 or 4 ways to etch metal. I can say one thing for sure tho it's all in prep work for sure
Not called pentahydrate
Am I the only one who hears Daniel Radcliffe when he speaks
Fancy engravings give you no advantages whatsoever.
Nice work tho