Thanks God for your channel Peter. You saved me from spending thousands of pounds in Mazda's dealership, whoes technicians are clueless or simply not willing to correctly identify the issues with diesel engines.
Mazda CX5, szívócsatorna és port tiszta hegyei.Köszönöm Istennek a csatornádat, Péter. Megkíméltél attól, hogy több ezer fontot költsek a Mazda márkakereskedésében, ahol a technikusok tanácstalanok, vagy egyszerűen nem hajlandók helyesen azonosítani a dízelmotorokkal kapcsolatos problémákat.Most találtam meg a csatornádat Peter és a nagy köszönet, az asszonyomnak van egy CX5 2.2-je, így minden tipped és trükköd felbecsülhetetlen értékű lesz a futre-ban, mivel jelenleg csak 78 000-et kapott Elég kompetens vagyok az eszközökön Csak megérteni a leolvasó eszközt, amely cserbenhagy, köszönöm még egyszer nagyszerű csatorna
You do sound competent, well done for completing a task like this. Good on you mate 💪💪💪 That’s the reasoning behind my channel, to help each other out. And I’m glad you enjoy some of my content, thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏
Hi there, great video - I've subbed. I have a CX5 Skyactiv AWD from 2015, the damn thing shakes under gently acceleration and shakes even more when I've got the revs on a bit to keep to the speed limit. Shaking immediately stops when I take it out of gear or dramatically reduces and the car stabilises if I put more revs through it and drive through the gears hard. Starts fine first thing in the morning but struggles to start if I pull over and stop the engine for a little while after a long drive. I've had it taken into a Mazda dealership for a diagnosis where they have concluded: "Checked MAP sensor and found excessive carbon build up which is also on the Intake Shutter Valve. Also found thick sludge build up in the top of the oil cap. Engine has been running with extremely low oil". They've recommended I have £1900 worth of work done with them, stripping the intake system and clearning carbon as well as changing oil etc etc. What would your advice be? I only paid £8k for the car in January, this is why I didn't check engine oil level as they said it had been serviced and good to go. The diagnosis reports says next service due November 2020!! so it might not have been serviced for almost 3 years! Since the diagnosis, I have have put good engine oil in, and I am considering whether its worth doing an engine service (oil, air and fuel filter change and dropping the oil etc) and taking it to a DPF cleaning specialist. Many many thanks in advance, I know that's a lot to read but I am really desperate and in a very sad situation. God bless. Tom in Kent, England.
Hi Tom, that is a very comprehensive comment indeed 👏👏 If you can change the oil and etc. do just because it is quite easy. As for the intake manifold cleaning, I would advise to bite the bullet & get that done too. It is a good car, that you must like due to having just purchased it. They simply just choke themselves & are unable to get in enough air to run right, so it should make a huge difference to it. How many miles are on it ??
@kennedysgarage3281 thanks so much for your reply. It has 115k miles. I understand that it will never be like a new car but I just want the ride back to normal: no shaking no loss of power etc. I'm being gapped by 1.2 litre cars at the lights 🤣 I think I will proceed with engine service and try and get a good price for the intake system stripping and dpf cleaning etc. The dealership have washed their hands with me so if the finance people cannot help I will have to do my best to resolve it - your videos have inspired me to get it sorted. Do you think the car running with extremely low engine oil for possibly the last 4 months could have resulted in the thick sludge in the top of the oil cap and possibly even the carbon in the oil? Many thanks again you're channel is superb and you're doing great content!
Hi Peter . I'm here after commenting on one of your other videos. I have been to another mechanic today and he has advised not to terra clean engine as was originally recommended by someone else, for the reason you are showing here , just too much carbon build up . He spent almost an hour going through an explanation and showing pictures , diagrams etc and a list of procedures to go through on his computer at no cost . An older guy , seemed very knowladgeble. I'm more confident now that after speaking to him this is the issue and not the turbo as couple of others had said. Still not great but hopefully my best cheaper option .
Great tip Peter. Never really thought about the relative valve positions but of course it makes perfect sense. Lots of RUclipsrs selling merchandise nowadays but what about an official Kennedy’s Garage beer crate; if you have plenty empty ones that is 😜🤣
My brother owns a pub hense all the beer crates being used for just about everything from engine changes to sitting cars down on them to locate hard find rattles 😂😂😂 Thanks Russell😉🙏
@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for the great videos! I am considering attempting this on my wife's CX5. Considering holding a hoover in place at all times tonprevent carbon deposits going in, but can you advise, what are the risks if some carbon deposits did drop in? Could it damage valve seats etc? Thankyou!
@@sammachin9585 i would recommend that you need compressed air & a blow gun in order to attempt it. Once the valves are closed & you blow high pressure air in there will be very minimal carbon. If a small quantity gets in it won’t matter too much, but if a large quantity gets in it could do damage 😬😬🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi!! , I did the same procedure on my mazda 6 but now it seems to be in safety mode, it has no power and “shake“at certain rotation. Can you help me? Thank you 🙏🏽
just found your channel peter and its great thankyou ,my mrs has a cx5 2.2 so all your tips an tricks will be invaluable in the futre as its only got 78,000 on at the moment im pretty competent on the tools its just understanding scan tool that lets me down , thanks again great channel
Another fantastic video Peter. Very interesting the part about getting the inlet valves open on one cylinder I was running this through my mind and then you came up with the diagram and of course you are right 👍I’ve taken a screenshot for future reference 👍
Maybe to add something here, I've cleaned ports without checking the position of the valves, confident i could get all the carbon out with a vaccum and small hose. Well, you can't get it all out as some carbon will inevitably fall down into the valve as you're scraping and using thinners to soften it. So what happens is carbon gets trapped in the valve seats and you loose compression making it hard to start. Then you get cylinder wash exacerbating the situation. So i would recommend checking if you can altho on a lot of engines you can't see the rockers. So what i do now is clean one port enough to see the valve position with the boroscope and go from there. As you say, if one cylinder's valves are open the rest are shut as it only fires one cylinder at a time
I wouldn’t ever clean port’s without knowing if the valves are open or closed. Normally you can see in with a borescope but these Skyactive engines are nuts & sometimes the borescope can be an impossible task. We love hardship done we Dave 😬 😂😂
Great video! This answers all the questions raised in the previous videos you've made about de-coking this engine. Thank you for putting the effort to share this valuable information!
Absolutely brilliant thanks for posting. The only thing that puts me off from doing all this, is fear of not being able to put everything back together 😅. Nonetheless I have to do it at some point as my engine just passed 100k mark and has intermittent P0401 fault.
Fab video again mate .....its similar to putting the screw driver into a chanber via spark hole (or glow plug hole i guess ) where tdc is when screw driver is at highest point . I rebuilt my bike engine (1400) cylinder bore and head ..was a mission but runs sweet . ....ill keep eye on my map sensor as its a good indicator of intake getting dirty again ........i still get frequent regens but last regen was pretty quick and power restored well afterwards . I still think maybe my other 3 injectirs are worn at nozzles thus causing excess soot ..thanks pal
@kennedysgarage3281 if you refer to injectors you can onky see if they're worn badly once zoomed in a fair bit . Merry Xmas buddy take care speak soon . I'll look out for more videos ty pal
Thanks for the video. Today just changed my sensor based on P2118 error after 6 years of no garage visit😅 Only at home oil and filters changed, consumables. Reliable AWD 2.2, 150 HP Brilliant.
@Kennedy’s garage now to do the manifold and egr, takes a lot of time. Just need to figure it out with camera and lift up the car to turn the wheel to open/close
@@rusanescutraian if it is manual just jack up the wheel on the timing chain side. You will nearly definitely need compressed air and a blow gun to blow carbon from the closed cylinder. A lot of people are getting caught with a no start after carbon gets caught under the valve seats 👍👍
Normally, if I use one of those EGR spray on the intake, does it do some cleaning, or is it just marketing? I understand it is cleaning, but where the carbon deposit goes, in the manifold. It's better to take it off
You’ll do it hand Paddy ,Make sure to get a tooth pick similar to the one I showed, compressed air & a hoover. And then you are away. The very best of luck with it 🤞🤞🤞👍
I have one of these cars, had it from new 4 years, dreading the day this happens, i only use the best fuel in the hope this will help stop the carbon build up.
These engines run very high EGR quantities which nearly makes the manifolds blocking unavoidable, but they only need cleaning every 100k so it isn’t too bad 😉👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281That seems to be the most logical explanation I have read. Seems that the (Mazda) EGR system directs too much of the exhaust gases (and particulates) back into the inlets. The result seems to result in blocked EGR valve, inlet manifold, inlet ports, MAP sensor, then onward to the oil sump strainers and oil pump. Is the 100km cleaning schedule a new requirement, or has it always been defined (CX-5 released in 2012)? Thanks for all your great videos showing the problems and solutions 👍👍👍. P.S. Is the leaking injector washer issue an unrelated issue (resulting in external gunk over the top section of the engine)?
@@SaxJockey no, there is a gap between the rocker cover and cylinder head & the leaking injector carbon lodges in there and gets into the oil & blocks the oil strainer 😬😬🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for the reply. The failure modes and related consequences are becoming much clearer...despite the horrendous carbon and sludge 😳.
whoa this is crazy! novice/DIY/average home mechanic here. How does the intake manifold even get that dirty? is it a regional thing? I'm in SoCal and about to remove my manifold this weekend to replace PVC valve and am wondering if I should plan on cleaning all these ports as well. 2016 Mazda Cx-5 with 178,000 miles on it and have had no real issues other than the occasional cylinder misfile that gets resolved with new spark plugs/coils.
Amazing video Peter and should be a huge help as I'm giving mine a clean today, any tips or tricks on how you clean the egr cooler as the drill would damage it I believe, I've heard oven cleaner might be a way forward but wouldn't want to damage it beyond repair?? 🤔
I use a penknife to clean off the heavy carbon at this point & a hoover. Just make sure that the valves are closed on the cylinders you are working on. I have a video on egr cooler cleaning with oven cleaner, I’ll copy and paste it. Good luck with it mate 🤞🤞🤞
@kennedysgarage3281 your a god send to mazda owners hopefully the codes it's throwing clears up but I appreciate the time and effort you give sharing your knowledge so a HUGE thank you 👍👍
Great stuff! Thank you. Is it possible to get on the end of the crankshaft from the engine bay, without removing the wheel? For turning the engine of auto cars.
Hi mate, great simple video. Saves loads of time. I did as was shown in this video, but have lost compression in my car when I put it back together. I only did what was shown in the video. Does the air intake manifold need to be sealed with gasket sealer, or is their any other reason you can think why compression is lost. I did hear air released when turning the wheel to open and close the valves. Any advise would be appreciated.
Did you have compressed air ?? It is most likely just carbon stuck under the intake valves. Years ago I have had similar problems. Is your car manual??
Love your videos - you're pretty much an expert on Skyactiv-D by now! I read on a forum some user did this by himself and afterwards had a Mazda workshop calibrate throttle body and egr valve. What do you think about this? Is it necessary?
Any calibration are good & it does help the start from a fresh. The will relearn over a nice long drive too so you shouldn’t have to worry about it too much. And thanks for the nice comment 🙏🙏🙏👍
Год назад+1
thanks for the information, you are a good specialist, but how to adjust the engine valves with an automatic transmission without damage it during cleaning. good luck for your work.
Remove the right hand front wheel, then remove the plastic trim cover the crank pulley bolt. Then use a 21mm socket, ratchet & long extension to turn the engine by hand 😉👍
Great video! !'m getting a fairly regular P0401, will have a look at the MAP as it's not constant and not going to limp mode. I'm fairly handy (had a P472, SCBS failure etc, garage couldn't diagnose it but found they'd brought out an upgraded Exhaust Pressure Sensor which fixed the issue) but I reckon this is beyond the driveway repair! How long would a job like this take? I'm away up in Wicklow but the confidence in another garage doing this is a bit shook, wondering if I can justify a wee break down to Waterford and visit Portlaw! :D
The P0401 is more than likely going to carbon buildup on the EGR pipe going into the rear of the manifold. This fault will also affect the SCBS system. It takes around 1 day to do , so a fella could go shopping 😂😂
With automatic transmission I use a 21mm socket and extra long extension bar to turn the engine from the crankshaft pulley nut. It is easy enough to do 😉👍👍👍
I cleaned it all out, put it back together and now it’s cranking but won’t start. No engine management lights on. I’ve gone through the fuses and all seems ok. Going to tow it to the garage for fault code reading.
I ended up trying to start it with various plugs unplugged. When I got to the grey plug on the fuel rail, bingo! The engine was coughing and trying to fire. Plugged plug back in. Jump started the car whilst repeatedly trying to start. Eventually it fired up. Diesel knocking like mad, misfiring and lots of stinky blue and white emissions. Yellow engine light on. Started running normally after a while. I then disconnected battery, had dinner. Back out, fired her up. Running sweet as a nut. No yellow engine light. See if it comes back on?
It sounds like there was some carbon left inside the ports that the engine sucked in. This possibly held the valves open slightly causing a no start condition 🤔🤔🤔 But well done on getting it done 👏👏💪💪
Great job! A question: I would like to know the mileage of that engine and If It has done a lot of travel throughout the city. Also know if It jerked at low rpm, between 1200 and 1500 rpm. Thank you so much. Another suscriptor.
It had around 150,000 from memory & this can cause them to be jumpy around 1500 rpm. But it would be worth removing the injectors and rocker cover as the exhaust camshaft wears very often & can cause it too. And thank you so much for subscribing 🙏🙏🙏👍
Hello Peter. As always, you give very helpful tips, thank you. As for the valve in closed position, what is the risk of damage if some carbon deposits found its way through because the valve were not fully closed?
Once you use the method shown this cannot happen but in the unfortunate circumstances that some carbon does enter the cylinder, a small quantity should be ok. A larger quantity could get caught underneath valve seats in which ever cylinder the carbon entered, a tow start should overcome this 🤞🤞 If a large quantity gets in, it could get compacted when the piston reaches TDC an this is quite a big problem 😬😬😬 It could bend a valve or con rod, worst case scenario 🤞🤞
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video. I see that you have taken the intake manifold without taking off the egr valve (non cooled bypass) and the egr cooler. I'd like to know how you did that as I will have to take off my intake manfiold soon and i dont want to go through the trouble of removing all the compoenents on the right hand side of the manifold. Thanks
I’m the same , I hated disassembling around the battery area. It is quite simple, there are only 2 bolts holding the egr valve connected to the cooler onto the intake manifold. The top bolt is easy but the lower one a little more awkward, a 10mm ratchet spanner & remove from under the intake manifold 🤔🤔 I might try to do a ‘short’ on it 😉😉
Great video & channel. Subbed. Do you recommend having this job done as preventative maintenance? I have a Mazda 6 162 with 170k on the clock. Thanks a mill...
If you aren’t having any issues at this point, I would possibly ignore it. It is recommended every 100,000kms and was most likely done around then. So wait until you get an SCBS, traction control or engine management light on. Or 200,000kms & at that stage remove the rocker cover & examine the exhaust camshaft also , they wear very often around 150 to 200k kms. Intake manifolds cost around €700 to do 👍👍
I have a gas/petro 2017 Mazda CX-5 I was never advised to clean the manifold and now they tell me it's too late to do induction cleaning. I am having no issues. I was planning on keeping this car long term. Any recommendations? Thank you from Texas!
Great video Peter. Unfortunately I'm in England so I can't use you but I keep getting a P0101 mass or volume air fault on my 2017 Mazda 3 2.2d Skyactiv when I go on a long run, it's fine day to day just long runs. Do you think it could be carbon build up like this? MAF sensor is very clean, bit reluctant to go to Mazda as I work in a truck dealership so I know what goes on lol. Cheers mate.
Anyone that has behind the scene experience in dealerships say the same thing. You definitely have to start at the intake manifold, remove the MAP sensor & the intake air pipe connecting to the throttle body. Examine both for carbon, especially up around the throttle body. Look up from the bottom is easiest. Let me know how you get on 👍👍
The best pointers I can give is, Service history as in has it been done recently. Other than that , Remove MAP sensor and see how caked it is ? Remove intake pipe from throttle body & use a mirror to see how bad it looks there ? A borescope/camera in the MAP sensor hole & take a look? Other than that just take the manifold off for a look, it takes around 1 hour? Hopefully this helps Ian 🤞🤞🙏🙏
Hi sir. Am new here . I cleaned the ways without making sure that the valves are closed and now engine won't start. So I think I lost compression. How can I get over this? And thanks a lot for the information you share.
I’m in the process of cleaning the intake manifold too. The MAP/MAF? Sensor was grubby and it’s completely blocked off from the air flow by the carbon. The intake manifold isn’t as badly blocked as in this video. I’m wondering if the sensor alone, being isolated like this would have been enough to bring on the “Engine inspection required” and “Vehicle systems inspection required” warnings I’m seeing? How did you get the awkward to remove plastic intercooler hose flange off the throttle body?
On the hard to remove intake pipe from the top looking down the outer flange turns clockwise or anti clockwise from the bottom looking upwards. The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor in the intake manifold being blocked will cause a P0101 air flow fault. If that is blocked the intake ports will more than likely be bad too. The MAF (mass air flow) sensor at the air filter box is fine. And yes these faults will cause engine inspection required message 👍
Just over 200,000kms John, I was just trying to show a simplified version of cleaning them. It has recently been put into the Mazda service schedule to be done every 100,000kms 😬👍👍
@@aleihp I will assume the job was done correctly, did you clean the MAP sensor in the intake manifold. If so did you keep it dry while cleaning it ?? Do you have a fault code reader, again if so drive the car for 50kms or so and see what faults appear after the drive cycle. Then let me know 👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Yes, I was very careful in the disassembly, cleaning and assembly. I cleaned the Map sensor with a spray (specific to clean the EGR). I just mounted the sensor and intake the next day. Had time to dry don't you think? As for the error code, none appear. Okay, I'll do what you said, drive the 50 kilometers and see. If something comes up I'll let you know. I don't know how to thank you for replying so quickly and on a Sunda 😃. I have a LOT of respect for you and your work 👊🏽. THANK YOU!!! 💪🏽
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hello 🙋🏽♂️. I did as you said. I drove 53 kilometers and the following message appeared on the dashboard: 'SCBS inspection required' and the symbol for the 'traction control' disabled also appeared, it also did not show which gear I had engaged. I stopped the car and connected my OBD to read the code and the P0101 (Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance) code appeared. I turned the car off and on again, the warning disappeared, no message on the dashboard, I drove a couple of meters and the car still has no power. How should I proceed? Sorry for my English, I'm from Portugal, and I'm using the translator. Thanks 🙏🏽
Hey Pete, thanks for the video. I successfully cleaned my mazda's intake manifold in the past but recently helped my mate do the same job on his car, and when put things together, the car wouldn't start. It feels like there's no fuel delivered to the engine. Any idea what we did wrong, or what diagnostic test should i perform to identify the issue? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Intermittently the can be very hard to start after intake system decarb. It could be fuel related, the easiest way to check without a scantool is to loosen 1 of the injector pipes and crank the engine over while observing for fuel flow. A scantool could be used to look at fuel pressure live data too. Also sometimes loose pieces of carbon can get caught underneath the intake valves & inhibit good compression. Sometimes a good few long cranks can overcome the issue. If it is manual you could tow start it 🤔🤔🤔 Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞
Hello. Can you tell me if Mazda has fixed the problem on recent versions ? My CX-5 is from July 2021 and has 33000 kilometers. Thank you for your response. I subscribe :)
Hi, I’m actually not sure if the carbon buildup is resolved. This is a common problem and happens on most engines nowadays. I do know that they did change the engine design which resolved a lot of the common skyactive engine issues. I would advise to not worry about it until your mileage doubles and then ask whoever is servicing it to check the manifold 🤔🤔
checked my map sensor after watching this and it was basically a lump of charcoal, completly blocked up. Engine actually starts, idles and runs fine other than some weird stuttering around 2000rpm when travelling at a constant speed in lower gears, I've only owned the car for a year so i don't really know how it used to feel. Will I see any noticeable improvement in performance after getting the valves, EGR and throttle body blasted?
I put it into 4th gear & stop one wheel from rotating. Then rotate the other wheel which then turns the engine. Alternatively just turn the engine via the 21mm crank pulley bolt 😉👍👍👍
Hello i have same car and same engine it have 148k km for now but last week I’ve noticed my oil level has been raising slightly do you know is that a signal for bad thing coming or its a simple fix ?
The oil is rising due to the car performing Dpf regenerations more often. This can happen due to intake manifold carbon buildup or exhaust camshaft being worn (these are the most common faults) But start by checking the intake manifold 😉👍👍
My '16 M6 manifold was cleaned at 50k after frequently stalling, but seems to have ok since (as far as I know). Didn't they do a software upgrade on the injectors? I am seeing frequent DPF Regen at my present 120,000 mileage, at approx. every 125miles despite all motorway driving.
Intake manifold restriction can cause a rich mixture which in turn causes lots of particulate, which can lead to frequent regen’s. Might be worth a look again 🤔🤔👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 beautifully reasoned. All these various issues with the Skyactiv D do seem to interlink. You've developed an expertise with these engines that seems to surpass the local Mazda Tech trained technician who I thought was the expert. My mpg is down to 50mpg on the motorway, so another reason your theory is likely correct
I got a low oil pressure alarm on car, followed this video cleared carbon from ports/manifold/EGR valves/cooler and about to change the oil pump screen. Looks like the injectors have been removed before as they’re numbered 1-4 with pen from a previous owner/mechanic. Do you think it’s worth changing the seals as a belt and braces?
If you have carbon buildup in the oil strainer, it is most likely coming from an injector seal / washer leaking carbon into the crankcase. So definitely worth renewing them 😉👍👍👍
Thanks mate, I’ll make sure I do them! Maybe the previous owner did the seals but didn’t do the decarbonisation, either way piece of mind to do the lot
@@kennedysgarage3281 so changed the oil pump screen yesterday, wasn’t really that blocked up mate, also there was a date written on the sump, 06/07/19 I’m guessing that’s when it was last done. Do you know the torque for the oil pump sprocket? Is there anywhere else I should check, I’m getting an intermittent fault light on low oil pressure, do you think it could be a dodgy sensor? Or maybe a blocked passage way on the camshaft?
Question. My issue is I keep adding coolant everytime I travel a distance. My nechanic says the oil and coolant doesn’t mix. I had it checked for radiator pressure and it’s ok. What is wrong with the car? Thank you
Hi, is there a way to check if the intake manifold needs a cleaning procedure without disassembling? I've checked the throttle body on mine and it's clean. Is there a relation between them.. i mean if the throttle body is fine the intake manifold should also be good or thats not correct?
The throttle body is a good indicator as to whether the intake manifold needs cleaning. Remove the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor too & check the top of it 👍👍
Hi Peter , just been advised to get carbon removal done as my car was left in under warranty with a gear slipping problem. Not sure exactly if directly related . Once carbon removal is done how many miles would you say it will be ok before redoing ? Thanks
The intake system decarb is recommended every 100,000 kms or 60,000 mls . Nearly the same as needing to renew timing belts, so not that big of a problem 🤔👍👍👍
Hello Peter, I cleaned my intake manifold and ports. Put everything back together, but unfortunately, engine refused starting (just turning) its lost compression. I believe some carbon deposits must have found its way into the valve. Please do you have any advice to help get compression back? It's an automatic so can't tow-start it. I also read on two comments here, they had compression loss after cleaning intake manifold, one said he used 'cylinder wash to exacerbate the situation' I really don't know what cylinder wash is and dont know how to contact him for help. I will pleased if you have any tips I can try. Thanks, Joe
Oooohhh. This is not that good of a position to be in, especially with it being automatic 😬😬 Why didn’t you use the technique is showed in this video??? What Dave Sterl said was when carbon gets into the cylinders that if thinners is used to break the carbon deposits down it then creates ‘cylinder wash’ which exacerbates the problem by causing ‘cylinder wash’. I unfortunately don’t have the answer right now 🤔🤔
I did an intake cleaning on one of these earlier. Car had no light on but my god its a different animal now even the noise of it . Did u ever use a flame and compressed air . To clean tge inket manifold. I removed the throttle body and pressure sensor and had thing spotless in couple of minutes
I have never used a flame to burn the carbon, but it sounds interesting. It is nearly impossible without compressed air. I also have a walnut blaster for the cleaning process now, it really does speed the process up. Cheers Eoghan 🙏🙏
Just my 2c, I think egr systems are a disaster - I wouldn't have one on any yoke of my own, I blank them immediately & let the computer sulk. Better it be sulking than the engine itself.
I do agree about the egr & carbon buildup but it hate having faults deleted from the fault table, I find it can make further fault finding very difficult. Thanks for all the watching and commenting James 🙏🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 I have a "Hugely Exotic" (for here) yoke coming in tomorrow for a belt-swap - mainly as nobody else wants to go within a country mile of it.. Pal rang asking would I do it - he's a good Pal, so I did the "Nod & say Yes" Irish thing you do with Pals who just asked you to do some insane stuff you should have said no to.. Say Prayers. :-)
Just done this on my cx5. Just tried to refit the manifold and it is hitting the alternator. Any idea how I can get the manifold back on. I didn’t notice if it was rubbing against the alternator on the way out or not
There are 2 aligning pins in the manifold. Are they still in place ?? If so you must fit the pin closest to the alternator first, then fit the 2nd one from the lower side up 🤔🤔
I was being dumb. Had connected up the inlet hose first thinking it would make my life easier but it was causing the inlet manifold to want to go on at an angle. Thankyou for your reply
Would a catch can prevent this from happening, or would it rejuse the carbon build-up? And what do you think about these companies that flush the carbon out of your motor and dpf are they any good?
@Kennedy’s garage thanks John for your honest and prompt reply. Great videos they are very informative. There's a lot of preventive maintenance that you can do before things fail on these 2.2 mazda diesels. How do you like catch cans? Are they any good? 🇦🇺.
@Kennedy’s garage a catch can is a can with some baffles, a filter, and a drain. That traps blowback gases and unburnt diesel and whatever else out of crank case and prevents them from going through the inlet manifold, greatly reducing carbon biuld up.
@@alland2888 ooh, so it is fitted in the crankcase breather system, I haven’t ever tried it & couldn’t really say if they are good or not, but possibly worth trying 🤔🤔
I cannot remember the mileage on this specific vehicle, but I can tell you that the intake manifold & ports need to be cleaned every 100,000 kms or 60,000mls. It is caused by this engine running very high EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) to reduce emissions output. The oil brand will have very little to do with it blocking. Hopefully that helps Paul 🤞😉😉
@Kennedy’s garage thanks for the reply, I got the 1.5 diesel in the mazda 2/demio does it have the same sort of problems I had misfire on 4 cylinder warning flash up the other week but didn't come back yet
WTF!! "fairly blocked"!!! That looks terrible! How many miles on that engine? Is the 2.5 G as bad? Do the dealer and/or DIY intake chemical cleaning really help? I have a 2021 with 14k miles.😮
Hey Greg, I don’t have any experience on the 2.5. But the intake on the 2.2 Skyactive blocks every 120,000 kms. This one had 240 or so on it. Removal is the only way to clean it, chemicals don’t really work 😉
If that small turbo is wet it is more than likely starting to fail. Remove the Map sensor & if the carbon is moist / wet that moisture is more than likely coming from the turbo 🤔🤔 I done a video on it just this week, I’ll copy and paste 👍
@kennedysgarage3281 isn't a leaning turbo an indication of a clogged or failing oil drain system? Turbos by design are not sealed to prevent oil from passing as far as I know, but if the drain is blocked, then the oil will overfill and flow by the compressor side and possibly the turbine as well. Any videos on oil drain for the skyactive D?
@@kevinross9493 oil strainers being blocked causes a reduction in oil pressure which will affect the turbo yes. But check it for movement just to be sure & yes I will copy and paste it in the next comment 👍
That's terrible, effing egr's, recently having funny intermittent power loss on euro5 relay van, had couple of diagnosis fellas out, could find nothing, bought little Bluetooth scan tool to keep with me, to check when the problem came up, it showed egr valve stuck and dpf atomiser not functioning, strangely i got a can of egr cleaner to spray in the intake, both codes went and haven't come back, i wonder if it's safe to do that occasionally with the egr spray stuff, i noticed engine revs increase as you spray it, obviously igniting,??
I don’t have too much faith in aerosol cleaners but if it worked in your case the egr cleaner itself could be very good & is definitely worth a try beforehand. I would be great if you knew the name of it and posted it up here !!
@@kennedysgarage3281thanks for the reply, i will post that egr cleaner up tomorrow, this van is a bit of camper, working away van so it can be ticking over a lot, if cleaner is not harmful id probably do it once a month or something
Hi m8 hiw much do you charge for intake manifold an egr cleaning on a mazda 3 2.2d? I'm in England an don't want ripping off ,,,iv watched a few of your videos an you know what your doing
I think it's the EGR valve, it recirculates exhaust gases to the inlet: common on diesel engines but there's something odd about Mazda Skyactiv engines that makes this a common issue
I believe all the carbon buildup comes from exhaust gas recirculation & so my answer is yes. It would eliminate the carbon buildup. But deleting egr is getting close to the end with new emissions standards being introduced soon in Ireland & the UK. All very interesting 🤔 🤔
😂😂😂😂 No Mike, these engines actually run very high quantities of exhaust gas back through the engine to reduce exhaust emissions. With this exhaust gas comes particulate which builds up in the intake manifold & ports 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
anyway not the best video, showing thing that should not be done. Nobody needs any screw driver, you cna see valve sinside intake manifold and turn engine to close valves, also blowing sooth inside and catching with a vacuum is STUPID, you should first vacuum, and MAYBE only after nothing is sucked anymore-try to blow with compressed air. Not to mention that when you blow shit from manifold those particles goins into open, already cleaned ports, you never secured.
It is unfortunate that my videos and workmanship are not up to your high standards. I also see from your comment that you are not familiar with the amount of carbon that builds up on the Skyactive engine, hence the screwdriver. It’s disappointing that you won’t be watching me anymore 😔😔
3:45 this engine is sooooooo clogged.... it must be cleaned with special chemicals, and oild sump filter changed ASAP. Also only ASHHOLE comes and sits inside cloth interiorwith his dirty, sooth filled work clothes.
Hi Peter... very interesting video... I have a Mazda 6 with automatic transmission 2.2 Skyactiv 175 hp year 2017 with 207,000 km travelled, it doesn't give me power delivery problems but I noticed that at low revs while proceeding on the road if I keep it down the accelerator slightly the car makes small jolts as if there was a problem with the engine, if I then press the accelerator harder the car no longer jolts and accelerates well... what could it be? I'm thinking soon of changing the lambda sensor, cleaning the EGR valve myself... then I would also like to clean the intake manifold but with the automatic gearbox how do I close the respective valves to do the cleaning safely? Thanks if you want to answer me. Richard 😊
Hi Richard, clean the intake manifold & replace the exhaust camshaft and injector washers. This resolves the shudder at 1500 to 2000 rpm. Let me know how you get on 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Ok...thanks for the reply and the advice...by the end of the year I already intended to face the expense of replacing the timing chain and camshaft together with the injector o-rings...I'll do that also have the DPF filter cleaned by a specialized company....if I were in your area I would have come to do the maintenance at your garage but unfortunately I live in Italy 😁....please tell me what the procedure is for bringing closing the valves with the automatic transmission when will I do the cleaning? I also have my own camera that connects to my cell phone for inspection in the intake manifold ducts...Thanks Peter 😉
Hi Peter...I'm still Richard..just today it happened to me while I was on the road with my 2017 Mazda 6 2.2 diesel Skyactiv 175 hp, several errors appeared on the display including SCBS, Forward distance control error etc...and the automatic gearbox was bad... doing the diagnosis with my OBD2 with Torque Pro App the error code P0154 or the oxygen sensor came up. What do you think I should do? Do I need to replace the lambda sensor? seeing as it has never been changed and my car has already driven 207,000 km...then I noticed that the car consumes a lot. For now I have reset the error code and for now it is fine. Thanks for your advice
Has the Dpf been deleted?? Run your finger around the inside of the exhaust tailpipe and see if it’s really black or relatively clean?? Oxygen sensors don’t fail on these so I’d be weary of changing it.
Hi Peter great video and channel just subscribed. My 151 2.2 cx5 is making a noise, take a look at the video of the sound, have you heard it before. ruclips.net/user/shortsE_NK7Ltxdso?si=wChSqxa0QZ9JG3Eo If so have you any idea what it is, might be worth calling up to you. Thanks paul
Thanks Peter for the tips !! currently cleaning my ports on my CX-5 and you’ve probably just helped me save hundreds of pounds.
Thanks God for your channel Peter. You saved me from spending thousands of pounds in Mazda's dealership, whoes technicians are clueless or simply not willing to correctly identify the issues with diesel engines.
I have a good few video tutorials in here, so you should be able to resolve most of your issues yourself. Good luck with it Bart 🤞🤞🤞👍
Mazda CX5, szívócsatorna és port tiszta hegyei.Köszönöm Istennek a csatornádat, Péter. Megkíméltél attól, hogy több ezer fontot költsek a Mazda márkakereskedésében, ahol a technikusok tanácstalanok, vagy egyszerűen nem hajlandók helyesen azonosítani a dízelmotorokkal kapcsolatos problémákat.Most találtam meg a csatornádat Peter és a nagy köszönet, az asszonyomnak van egy CX5 2.2-je, így minden tipped és trükköd felbecsülhetetlen értékű lesz a futre-ban, mivel jelenleg csak 78 000-et kapott Elég kompetens vagyok az eszközökön Csak megérteni a leolvasó eszközt, amely cserbenhagy, köszönöm még egyszer nagyszerű csatorna
You do sound competent, well done for completing a task like this. Good on you mate 💪💪💪
That’s the reasoning behind my channel, to help each other out. And I’m glad you enjoy some of my content, thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏
Hi there, great video - I've subbed.
I have a CX5 Skyactiv AWD from 2015, the damn thing shakes under gently acceleration and shakes even more when I've got the revs on a bit to keep to the speed limit. Shaking immediately stops when I take it out of gear or dramatically reduces and the car stabilises if I put more revs through it and drive through the gears hard. Starts fine first thing in the morning but struggles to start if I pull over and stop the engine for a little while after a long drive.
I've had it taken into a Mazda dealership for a diagnosis where they have concluded: "Checked MAP sensor and found excessive carbon build up which is also on the Intake Shutter Valve. Also found thick sludge build up in the top of the oil cap. Engine has been running with extremely low oil".
They've recommended I have £1900 worth of work done with them, stripping the intake system and clearning carbon as well as changing oil etc etc.
What would your advice be? I only paid £8k for the car in January, this is why I didn't check engine oil level as they said it had been serviced and good to go. The diagnosis reports says next service due November 2020!! so it might not have been serviced for almost 3 years!
Since the diagnosis, I have have put good engine oil in, and I am considering whether its worth doing an engine service (oil, air and fuel filter change and dropping the oil etc) and taking it to a DPF cleaning specialist.
Many many thanks in advance, I know that's a lot to read but I am really desperate and in a very sad situation. God bless. Tom in Kent, England.
Hi Tom, that is a very comprehensive comment indeed 👏👏
If you can change the oil and etc. do just because it is quite easy.
As for the intake manifold cleaning, I would advise to bite the bullet & get that done too. It is a good car, that you must like due to having just purchased it. They simply just choke themselves & are unable to get in enough air to run right, so it should make a huge difference to it. How many miles are on it ??
@kennedysgarage3281 thanks so much for your reply. It has 115k miles. I understand that it will never be like a new car but I just want the ride back to normal: no shaking no loss of power etc. I'm being gapped by 1.2 litre cars at the lights 🤣 I think I will proceed with engine service and try and get a good price for the intake system stripping and dpf cleaning etc. The dealership have washed their hands with me so if the finance people cannot help I will have to do my best to resolve it - your videos have inspired me to get it sorted. Do you think the car running with extremely low engine oil for possibly the last 4 months could have resulted in the thick sludge in the top of the oil cap and possibly even the carbon in the oil?
Many thanks again you're channel is superb and you're doing great content!
Hi Peter . I'm here after commenting on one of your other videos. I have been to another mechanic today and he has advised not to terra clean engine as was originally recommended by someone else, for the reason you are showing here , just too much carbon build up . He spent almost an hour going through an explanation and showing pictures , diagrams etc and a list of procedures to go through on his computer at no cost . An older guy , seemed very knowladgeble. I'm more confident now that after speaking to him this is the issue and not the turbo as couple of others had said. Still not great but hopefully my best cheaper option .
That’s great & fingers crossed the intake decarb will sort it 🤞🤞
Great tip Peter. Never really thought about the relative valve positions but of course it makes perfect sense. Lots of RUclipsrs selling merchandise nowadays but what about an official Kennedy’s Garage beer crate; if you have plenty empty ones that is 😜🤣
My brother owns a pub hense all the beer crates being used for just about everything from engine changes to sitting cars down on them to locate hard find rattles 😂😂😂
Thanks Russell😉🙏
@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for the great videos! I am considering attempting this on my wife's CX5. Considering holding a hoover in place at all times tonprevent carbon deposits going in, but can you advise, what are the risks if some carbon deposits did drop in? Could it damage valve seats etc? Thankyou!
@@sammachin9585 i would recommend that you need compressed air & a blow gun in order to attempt it. Once the valves are closed & you blow high pressure air in there will be very minimal carbon. If a small quantity gets in it won’t matter too much, but if a large quantity gets in it could do damage 😬😬🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi!! , I did the same procedure on my mazda 6 but now it seems to be in safety mode, it has no power and “shake“at certain rotation. Can you help me? Thank you 🙏🏽
@@aleihp i replied on the other comment 👍👍
just found your channel peter and its great thankyou ,my mrs has a cx5 2.2 so all your tips an tricks will be invaluable in the futre as its only got 78,000 on at the moment im pretty competent on the tools its just understanding scan tool that lets me down , thanks again great channel
Hi Trevor, I’m using scantools in most of my videos so keep watching and you would be surprised how much you will pick up 👍👍👍
Another fantastic video Peter. Very interesting the part about getting the inlet valves open on one cylinder I was running this through my mind and then you came up with the diagram and of course you are right 👍I’ve taken a screenshot for future reference 👍
Thanks Kevin, it is logical but does that a bit of figuring in one’s head first & I does speed up the job 🙏🙏👍
Maybe to add something here, I've cleaned ports without checking the position of the valves, confident i could get all the carbon out with a vaccum and small hose. Well, you can't get it all out as some carbon will inevitably fall down into the valve as you're scraping and using thinners to soften it. So what happens is carbon gets trapped in the valve seats and you loose compression making it hard to start. Then you get cylinder wash exacerbating the situation. So i would recommend checking if you can altho on a lot of engines you can't see the rockers. So what i do now is clean one port enough to see the valve position with the boroscope and go from there. As you say, if one cylinder's valves are open the rest are shut as it only fires one cylinder at a time
I wouldn’t ever clean port’s without knowing if the valves are open or closed. Normally you can see in with a borescope but these Skyactive engines are nuts & sometimes the borescope can be an impossible task.
We love hardship done we Dave 😬 😂😂
Great video! This answers all the questions raised in the previous videos you've made about de-coking this engine. Thank you for putting the effort to share this valuable information!
That was my plan & I’m glad you noticed that. Thank you very much Vrabie 🙏🙏🙏👍
And happy new year 🥳 🥳
Thank you for this video, very helpful clear information, 👏 I will be cleaning my intake shortly, cheers from New Zealand 👍
Well done Brett good luck with the job 🤞🤞👏👏
I just saw you remove the plastic flange on another video. Thanks.
Absolutely brilliant thanks for posting. The only thing that puts me off from doing all this, is fear of not being able to put everything back together 😅. Nonetheless I have to do it at some point as my engine just passed 100k mark and has intermittent P0401 fault.
It is just carbon buildup around that EGR pipe causing it. Thanks for the nice comment 🙏🙏👍
Fab video again mate .....its similar to putting the screw driver into a chanber via spark hole (or glow plug hole i guess ) where tdc is when screw driver is at highest point .
I rebuilt my bike engine (1400) cylinder bore and head ..was a mission but runs sweet . ....ill keep eye on my map sensor as its a good indicator of intake getting dirty again ........i still get frequent regens but last regen was pretty quick and power restored well afterwards .
I still think maybe my other 3 injectirs are worn at nozzles thus causing excess soot ..thanks pal
You are getting to the end of it now Kevin 🤞🤞
Have a nice Christmas & happy new year mate 🎄🎄🎄
@kennedysgarage3281 ty pal merry Xmas buddy.....ps I suspect of late my egr cooler has failed /cracks . All the best buddy
@@kevinhancock4064 oooohhh that’s interesting, I haven’t seen one to fail so far. Handy information 🙏🙏🙏
Happy Christmas Kevin 🎄🎄
@kennedysgarage3281 if you refer to injectors you can onky see if they're worn badly once zoomed in a fair bit .
Merry Xmas buddy take care speak soon . I'll look out for more videos ty pal
@@kevinhancock4064 many happy returns this holiday season Kevin 🎄🎄🎄🙏
Great video - love the detailed explanation
Thank you very much Hudson & thank you for watching/ commenting 🙏🙏🙏👍
Thanks for the video.
Today just changed my sensor based on P2118 error after 6 years of no garage visit😅
Only at home oil and filters changed, consumables. Reliable AWD 2.2, 150 HP
Brilliant.
Well done mate, oil and filter can be the life of a car 💪💪👍
@Kennedy’s garage now to do the manifold and egr, takes a lot of time. Just need to figure it out with camera and lift up the car to turn the wheel to open/close
@@rusanescutraian if it is manual just jack up the wheel on the timing chain side. You will nearly definitely need compressed air and a blow gun to blow carbon from the closed cylinder. A lot of people are getting caught with a no start after carbon gets caught under the valve seats 👍👍
Normally, if I use one of those EGR spray on the intake, does it do some cleaning, or is it just marketing?
I understand it is cleaning, but where the carbon deposit goes, in the manifold.
It's better to take it off
@@rusanescutraian I don’t believe that any spray or additives will get rid of the amount of carbon that builds up in the intake system on these 🤔🤔😬😬
very good peter i think ill do mind in the new year after watching this video
You’ll do it hand Paddy ,Make sure to get a tooth pick similar to the one I showed, compressed air & a hoover. And then you are away. The very best of luck with it 🤞🤞🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281Thanks peter will do
Peter can you send me the name of that pick please
Nice video, helpful as always. 👍
Thank you Xegro 🙏🙏🙏👍
I have one of these cars, had it from new 4 years, dreading the day this happens, i only use the best fuel in the hope this will help stop the carbon build up.
These engines run very high EGR quantities which nearly makes the manifolds blocking unavoidable, but they only need cleaning every 100k so it isn’t too bad 😉👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for the info, very kind of you. 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281That seems to be the most logical explanation I have read. Seems that the (Mazda) EGR system directs too much of the exhaust gases (and particulates) back into the inlets. The result seems to result in blocked EGR valve, inlet manifold, inlet ports, MAP sensor, then onward to the oil sump strainers and oil pump. Is the 100km cleaning schedule a new requirement, or has it always been defined (CX-5 released in 2012)?
Thanks for all your great videos showing the problems and solutions 👍👍👍.
P.S. Is the leaking injector washer issue an unrelated issue (resulting in external gunk over the top section of the engine)?
@@SaxJockey no, there is a gap between the rocker cover and cylinder head & the leaking injector carbon lodges in there and gets into the oil & blocks the oil strainer 😬😬🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for the reply. The failure modes and related consequences are becoming much clearer...despite the horrendous carbon and sludge 😳.
Great work as usual
I think it explains it easily enough for anyone to tackle it. Hopefully it helps some of ye guys 🤞🤞🙏🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 I’m hoping I never have to do it in my cx5 but it’s quite clear how to do it
@@john-qy5si 😊👍
whoa this is crazy! novice/DIY/average home mechanic here. How does the intake manifold even get that dirty? is it a regional thing? I'm in SoCal and about to remove my manifold this weekend to replace PVC valve and am wondering if I should plan on cleaning all these ports as well. 2016 Mazda Cx-5 with 178,000 miles on it and have had no real issues other than the occasional cylinder misfile that gets resolved with new spark plugs/coils.
Is SoCal, south California??
This problem only effects or happens on the 2.2 diesel engines. Your petrol on should be fine 🤞🤞🤞
Amazing video Peter and should be a huge help as I'm giving mine a clean today, any tips or tricks on how you clean the egr cooler as the drill would damage it I believe, I've heard oven cleaner might be a way forward but wouldn't want to damage it beyond repair?? 🤔
I use a penknife to clean off the heavy carbon at this point & a hoover. Just make sure that the valves are closed on the cylinders you are working on. I have a video on egr cooler cleaning with oven cleaner, I’ll copy and paste it. Good luck with it mate 🤞🤞🤞
ruclips.net/video/pNUz2h1XOWU/видео.htmlsi=-mFZPTVmKa36lhaP
@kennedysgarage3281 your a god send to mazda owners hopefully the codes it's throwing clears up but I appreciate the time and effort you give sharing your knowledge so a HUGE thank you 👍👍
@@torenleong 🙏🙏🙏
Great stuff! Thank you. Is it possible to get on the end of the crankshaft from the engine bay, without removing the wheel? For turning the engine of auto cars.
hello kennedy my mazda has white smoke from the exhaust and also oil from the dip stick as well
some advice
it was jacking alot as i try to accelerate and consuption is also nuts n ow days
hoping to change the nozzle soon n see what the economy will be like
If it is smoking bad & burning oil it could be a turbo failing due to oil starvation from the oil strainer being blocked 🤔🤔👍
Hi mate, great simple video. Saves loads of time. I did as was shown in this video, but have lost compression in my car when I put it back together. I only did what was shown in the video. Does the air intake manifold need to be sealed with gasket sealer, or is their any other reason you can think why compression is lost. I did hear air released when turning the wheel to open and close the valves. Any advise would be appreciated.
Did you have compressed air ??
It is most likely just carbon stuck under the intake valves. Years ago I have had similar problems. Is your car manual??
Wow, that car needed some help. Great video but I didn't catch how many miles were on this CX-5.
Around 200,000 kms but the intake manifold and ports block ever 100k or so
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks!
@@MFgr8 😉🙏🙏
Love your videos - you're pretty much an expert on Skyactiv-D by now! I read on a forum some user did this by himself and afterwards had a Mazda workshop calibrate throttle body and egr valve. What do you think about this? Is it necessary?
Any calibration are good & it does help the start from a fresh. The will relearn over a nice long drive too so you shouldn’t have to worry about it too much. And thanks for the nice comment 🙏🙏🙏👍
thanks for the information, you are a good specialist, but how to adjust the engine valves with an automatic transmission without damage it during cleaning. good luck for your work.
Remove the right hand front wheel, then remove the plastic trim cover the crank pulley bolt. Then use a 21mm socket, ratchet & long extension to turn the engine by hand 😉👍
Great video! !'m getting a fairly regular P0401, will have a look at the MAP as it's not constant and not going to limp mode. I'm fairly handy (had a P472, SCBS failure etc, garage couldn't diagnose it but found they'd brought out an upgraded Exhaust Pressure Sensor which fixed the issue) but I reckon this is beyond the driveway repair!
How long would a job like this take? I'm away up in Wicklow but the confidence in another garage doing this is a bit shook, wondering if I can justify a wee break down to Waterford and visit Portlaw! :D
The P0401 is more than likely going to carbon buildup on the EGR pipe going into the rear of the manifold. This fault will also affect the SCBS system.
It takes around 1 day to do , so a fella could go shopping 😂😂
@@kennedysgarage3281y
Top tips there 👍
Thank you Alan my man 🙏🙏🙏👍
With automatic transmission you need to put in the air all wheels? The car must be in drive mode?
With automatic transmission I use a 21mm socket and extra long extension bar to turn the engine from the crankshaft pulley nut. It is easy enough to do 😉👍👍👍
By the way, his comments name is Dave Sterl
I cleaned it all out, put it back together and now it’s cranking but won’t start. No engine management lights on. I’ve gone through the fuses and all seems ok. Going to tow it to the garage for fault code reading.
I ended up trying to start it with various plugs unplugged. When I got to the grey plug on the fuel rail, bingo! The engine was coughing and trying to fire. Plugged plug back in. Jump started the car whilst repeatedly trying to start. Eventually it fired up. Diesel knocking like mad, misfiring and lots of stinky blue and white emissions. Yellow engine light on. Started running normally after a while. I then disconnected battery, had dinner. Back out, fired her up. Running sweet as a nut. No yellow engine light. See if it comes back on?
It sounds like there was some carbon left inside the ports that the engine sucked in. This possibly held the valves open slightly causing a no start condition 🤔🤔🤔
But well done on getting it done 👏👏💪💪
Great job!
A question:
I would like to know the mileage of that engine and If It has done a lot of travel throughout the city. Also know if It jerked at low rpm, between 1200 and 1500 rpm.
Thank you so much.
Another suscriptor.
It had around 150,000 from memory & this can cause them to be jumpy around 1500 rpm. But it would be worth removing the injectors and rocker cover as the exhaust camshaft wears very often & can cause it too.
And thank you so much for subscribing 🙏🙏🙏👍
Hello Peter. As always, you give very helpful tips, thank you. As for the valve in closed position, what is the risk of damage if some carbon deposits found its way through because the valve were not fully closed?
Once you use the method shown this cannot happen but in the unfortunate circumstances that some carbon does enter the cylinder, a small quantity should be ok. A larger quantity could get caught underneath valve seats in which ever cylinder the carbon entered, a tow start should overcome this 🤞🤞
If a large quantity gets in, it could get compacted when the piston reaches TDC an this is quite a big problem 😬😬😬
It could bend a valve or con rod, worst case scenario 🤞🤞
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video. I see that you have taken the intake manifold without taking off the egr valve (non cooled bypass) and the egr cooler. I'd like to know how you did that as I will have to take off my intake manfiold soon and i dont want to go through the trouble of removing all the compoenents on the right hand side of the manifold. Thanks
I’m the same , I hated disassembling around the battery area.
It is quite simple, there are only 2 bolts holding the egr valve connected to the cooler onto the intake manifold. The top bolt is easy but the lower one a little more awkward, a 10mm ratchet spanner & remove from under the intake manifold 🤔🤔
I might try to do a ‘short’ on it 😉😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you!
@@MrKropower 😉😊
Great video & channel. Subbed.
Do you recommend having this job done as preventative maintenance? I have a Mazda 6 162 with 170k on the clock. Thanks a mill...
If you aren’t having any issues at this point, I would possibly ignore it. It is recommended every 100,000kms and was most likely done around then. So wait until you get an SCBS, traction control or engine management light on. Or 200,000kms & at that stage remove the rocker cover & examine the exhaust camshaft also , they wear very often around 150 to 200k kms.
Intake manifolds cost around €700 to do 👍👍
I have a gas/petro 2017 Mazda CX-5 I was never advised to clean the manifold and now they tell me it's too late to do induction cleaning. I am having no issues. I was planning on keeping this car long term. Any recommendations? Thank you from Texas!
Unfortunately Alex, I haven’t ever worked on a petrol CX5 😔😔
Did they explain why it was needed & especially why it was too late??
Great video Peter. Unfortunately I'm in England so I can't use you but I keep getting a P0101 mass or volume air fault on my 2017 Mazda 3 2.2d Skyactiv when I go on a long run, it's fine day to day just long runs. Do you think it could be carbon build up like this? MAF sensor is very clean, bit reluctant to go to Mazda as I work in a truck dealership so I know what goes on lol.
Cheers mate.
Anyone that has behind the scene experience in dealerships say the same thing. You definitely have to start at the intake manifold, remove the MAP sensor & the intake air pipe connecting to the throttle body. Examine both for carbon, especially up around the throttle body. Look up from the bottom is easiest. Let me know how you get on 👍👍
Can you suggest any checks I can do before stripping down the inlet manifold. I have a diagnostic tool, is there any measurements I can look at.
The best pointers I can give is, Service history as in has it been done recently. Other than that ,
Remove MAP sensor and see how caked it is ?
Remove intake pipe from throttle body & use a mirror to see how bad it looks there ?
A borescope/camera in the MAP sensor hole & take a look?
Other than that just take the manifold off for a look, it takes around 1 hour?
Hopefully this helps Ian 🤞🤞🙏🙏
Hi sir. Am new here . I cleaned the ways without making sure that the valves are closed and now engine won't start. So I think I lost compression. How can I get over this? And thanks a lot for the information you share.
If it is automatic it can be very hard but if yours is manual just tow start it. The higher engine rpm will make it fire up 🤞🤞🤞
I’m in the process of cleaning the intake manifold too. The MAP/MAF? Sensor was grubby and it’s completely blocked off from the air flow by the carbon. The intake manifold isn’t as badly blocked as in this video. I’m wondering if the sensor alone, being isolated like this would have been enough to bring on the “Engine inspection required” and “Vehicle systems inspection required” warnings I’m seeing? How did you get the awkward to remove plastic intercooler hose flange off the throttle body?
On the hard to remove intake pipe from the top looking down the outer flange turns clockwise or anti clockwise from the bottom looking upwards.
The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor in the intake manifold being blocked will cause a P0101 air flow fault. If that is blocked the intake ports will more than likely be bad too. The MAF (mass air flow) sensor at the air filter box is fine. And yes these faults will cause engine inspection required message 👍
Good job Peter 👍 you’ve shown these engines chocking themselves up before but I still find it shocking. What was the mileage?
Just over 200,000kms John, I was just trying to show a simplified version of cleaning them. It has recently been put into the Mazda service schedule to be done every 100,000kms 😬👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 HI!! 🙋🏽♂️ I did this on my mazda 6 and now it have no power 😢. Can you help tell me what to do? Please 🙏🏽
@@aleihp I will assume the job was done correctly, did you clean the MAP sensor in the intake manifold. If so did you keep it dry while cleaning it ??
Do you have a fault code reader, again if so drive the car for 50kms or so and see what faults appear after the drive cycle. Then let me know 👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Yes, I was very careful in the disassembly, cleaning and assembly. I cleaned the Map sensor with a spray (specific to clean the EGR). I just mounted the sensor and intake the next day. Had time to dry don't you think? As for the error code, none appear. Okay, I'll do what you said, drive the 50 kilometers and see. If something comes up I'll let you know. I don't know how to thank you for replying so quickly and on a Sunda 😃. I have a LOT of respect for you and your work 👊🏽. THANK YOU!!! 💪🏽
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hello 🙋🏽♂️. I did as you said. I drove 53 kilometers and the following message appeared on the dashboard: 'SCBS inspection required' and the symbol for the 'traction control' disabled also appeared, it also did not show which gear I had engaged. I stopped the car and connected my OBD to read the code and the P0101 (Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance) code appeared. I turned the car off and on again, the warning disappeared, no message on the dashboard, I drove a couple of meters and the car still has no power. How should I proceed?
Sorry for my English, I'm from Portugal, and I'm using the translator.
Thanks 🙏🏽
Hey Pete, thanks for the video. I successfully cleaned my mazda's intake manifold in the past but recently helped my mate do the same job on his car, and when put things together, the car wouldn't start. It feels like there's no fuel delivered to the engine. Any idea what we did wrong, or what diagnostic test should i perform to identify the issue? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Intermittently the can be very hard to start after intake system decarb. It could be fuel related, the easiest way to check without a scantool is to loosen 1 of the injector pipes and crank the engine over while observing for fuel flow. A scantool could be used to look at fuel pressure live data too.
Also sometimes loose pieces of carbon can get caught underneath the intake valves & inhibit good compression. Sometimes a good few long cranks can overcome the issue. If it is manual you could tow start it 🤔🤔🤔
Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks Pete, I'll give these ideas a go today. You're a ⭐ mate!
@@bartj7066 the very best of luck on it 🤞 🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 it worked! I used some cold start as well. Top man!
@@bartj7066 well done mate & happy new year 🎉🎉🎉
Hello. Can you tell me if Mazda has fixed the problem on recent versions ? My CX-5 is from July 2021 and has 33000 kilometers. Thank you for your response. I subscribe :)
Hi, I’m actually not sure if the carbon buildup is resolved. This is a common problem and happens on most engines nowadays. I do know that they did change the engine design which resolved a lot of the common skyactive engine issues. I would advise to not worry about it until your mileage doubles and then ask whoever is servicing it to check the manifold 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks 🙂👍
checked my map sensor after watching this and it was basically a lump of charcoal, completly blocked up. Engine actually starts, idles and runs fine other than some weird stuttering around 2000rpm when travelling at a constant speed in lower gears, I've only owned the car for a year so i don't really know how it used to feel. Will I see any noticeable improvement in performance after getting the valves, EGR and throttle body blasted?
If they are badly blocked you would see a massive improvement on drivability and power. It really is a job that is worth doing 😉👍👍
Does it need to be in gear for turning the engine from the wheel or in neutral?
I put it into 4th gear & stop one wheel from rotating. Then rotate the other wheel which then turns the engine. Alternatively just turn the engine via the 21mm crank pulley bolt 😉👍👍👍
Hello i have same car and same engine it have 148k km for now but last week I’ve noticed my oil level has been raising slightly do you know is that a signal for bad thing coming or its a simple fix ?
The oil is rising due to the car performing Dpf regenerations more often. This can happen due to intake manifold carbon buildup or exhaust camshaft being worn (these are the most common faults)
But start by checking the intake manifold 😉👍👍
👍🏻👍🏻
I hope you enjoyed it 🤞🤞👍👍
My '16 M6 manifold was cleaned at 50k after frequently stalling, but seems to have ok since (as far as I know). Didn't they do a software upgrade on the injectors? I am seeing frequent DPF Regen at my present 120,000 mileage, at approx. every 125miles despite all motorway driving.
Intake manifold restriction can cause a rich mixture which in turn causes lots of particulate, which can lead to frequent regen’s. Might be worth a look again 🤔🤔👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 beautifully reasoned. All these various issues with the Skyactiv D do seem to interlink. You've developed an expertise with these engines that seems to surpass the local Mazda Tech trained technician who I thought was the expert. My mpg is down to 50mpg on the motorway, so another reason your theory is likely correct
I got a low oil pressure alarm on car, followed this video cleared carbon from ports/manifold/EGR valves/cooler and about to change the oil pump screen. Looks like the injectors have been removed before as they’re numbered 1-4 with pen from a previous owner/mechanic. Do you think it’s worth changing the seals as a belt and braces?
If you have carbon buildup in the oil strainer, it is most likely coming from an injector seal / washer leaking carbon into the crankcase. So definitely worth renewing them 😉👍👍👍
Thanks mate, I’ll make sure I do them! Maybe the previous owner did the seals but didn’t do the decarbonisation, either way piece of mind to do the lot
@@WoWhacka absolutely 👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 so changed the oil pump screen yesterday, wasn’t really that blocked up mate, also there was a date written on the sump, 06/07/19 I’m guessing that’s when it was last done. Do you know the torque for the oil pump sprocket?
Is there anywhere else I should check, I’m getting an intermittent fault light on low oil pressure, do you think it could be a dodgy sensor? Or maybe a blocked passage way on the camshaft?
@@WoWhacka it could be any of those. The one thing I have learned is that assumption can send you so far in the wrong direction it isn’t funny 😬😬
Question. My issue is I keep adding coolant everytime I travel a distance. My nechanic says the oil and coolant doesn’t mix. I had it checked for radiator pressure and it’s ok. What is wrong with the car? Thank you
The head gasket is most likely failing if you don’t have any leaks. It is a very common failure item on these engines 😬😬😬
Hi, is there a way to check if the intake manifold needs a cleaning procedure without disassembling? I've checked the throttle body on mine and it's clean. Is there a relation between them.. i mean if the throttle body is fine the intake manifold should also be good or thats not correct?
The throttle body is a good indicator as to whether the intake manifold needs cleaning. Remove the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor too & check the top of it 👍👍
Hi Peter , just been advised to get carbon removal done as my car was left in under warranty with a gear slipping problem. Not sure exactly if directly related .
Once carbon removal is done how many miles would you say it will be ok before redoing ?
Thanks
The intake system decarb is recommended every 100,000 kms or 60,000 mls . Nearly the same as needing to renew timing belts, so not that big of a problem 🤔👍👍👍
Can I bring my Mazda over to you from the UK for a good coat of looking at? :)
You would be more than welcome, make a holiday of it 😂😂😂
Hello Peter, I cleaned my intake manifold and ports. Put everything back together, but unfortunately, engine refused starting (just turning) its lost compression. I believe some carbon deposits must have found its way into the valve. Please do you have any advice to help get compression back? It's an automatic so can't tow-start it. I also read on two comments here, they had compression loss after cleaning intake manifold, one said he used 'cylinder wash to exacerbate the situation' I really don't know what cylinder wash is and dont know how to contact him for help. I will pleased if you have any tips I can try. Thanks, Joe
Oooohhh. This is not that good of a position to be in, especially with it being automatic 😬😬
Why didn’t you use the technique is showed in this video???
What Dave Sterl said was when carbon gets into the cylinders that if thinners is used to break the carbon deposits down it then creates ‘cylinder wash’ which exacerbates the problem by causing ‘cylinder wash’.
I unfortunately don’t have the answer right now 🤔🤔
I did an intake cleaning on one of these earlier. Car had no light on but my god its a different animal now even the noise of it . Did u ever use a flame and compressed air . To clean tge inket manifold. I removed the throttle body and pressure sensor and had thing spotless in couple of minutes
I have never used a flame to burn the carbon, but it sounds interesting.
It is nearly impossible without compressed air. I also have a walnut blaster for the cleaning process now, it really does speed the process up. Cheers Eoghan 🙏🙏
Does walnut blaster make such a big difference? Or is the same result at the end?
Just my 2c, I think egr systems are a disaster - I wouldn't have one on any yoke of my own, I blank them immediately & let the computer sulk. Better it be sulking than the engine itself.
I do agree about the egr & carbon buildup but it hate having faults deleted from the fault table, I find it can make further fault finding very difficult.
Thanks for all the watching and commenting James 🙏🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 I have a "Hugely Exotic" (for here) yoke coming in tomorrow for a belt-swap - mainly as nobody else wants to go within a country mile of it.. Pal rang asking would I do it - he's a good Pal, so I did the "Nod & say Yes" Irish thing you do with Pals who just asked you to do some insane stuff you should have said no to.. Say Prayers. :-)
@@jamesward5721 all sounds very familiar, good luck with the belt change James 🤞🤞👍
Just done this on my cx5. Just tried to refit the manifold and it is hitting the alternator. Any idea how I can get the manifold back on. I didn’t notice if it was rubbing against the alternator on the way out or not
There are 2 aligning pins in the manifold. Are they still in place ??
If so you must fit the pin closest to the alternator first, then fit the 2nd one from the lower side up 🤔🤔
I was being dumb. Had connected up the inlet hose first thinking it would make my life easier but it was causing the inlet manifold to want to go on at an angle. Thankyou for your reply
Would a catch can prevent this from happening, or would it rejuse the carbon build-up? And what do you think about these companies that flush the carbon out of your motor and dpf are they any good?
Quite a few of my customers have gotten these carbon cleans done prior to coming to me. So because of this I wouldn’t have too much faith in them 😔👍👍
@Kennedy’s garage thanks John for your honest and prompt reply. Great videos they are very informative. There's a lot of preventive maintenance that you can do before things fail on these 2.2 mazda diesels. How do you like catch cans? Are they any good? 🇦🇺.
@@alland2888 I’m actually not familiar with what a catch can is ???
@Kennedy’s garage a catch can is a can with some baffles, a filter, and a drain. That traps blowback gases and unburnt diesel and whatever else out of crank case and prevents them from going through the inlet manifold, greatly reducing carbon biuld up.
@@alland2888 ooh, so it is fitted in the crankcase breather system, I haven’t ever tried it & couldn’t really say if they are good or not, but possibly worth trying 🤔🤔
Hi , does a Mazda 3 2.2 diesel skyactiv 2016 have a throttle body , cheers mate
Hi Pete .how many km on that engine. That's very severe . Must be a soft ware update ??
I think it was just over 200,000kms. Intake manifold & port clean is in the service schedule for these @ 100,000kms now 😬😬
What mileage was on this vehicle and is that normal to have that much carbon build up. Also is that caused by using the wrong oil or something. Thanks
I cannot remember the mileage on this specific vehicle, but I can tell you that the intake manifold & ports need to be cleaned every 100,000 kms or 60,000mls.
It is caused by this engine running very high EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) to reduce emissions output. The oil brand will have very little to do with it blocking. Hopefully that helps Paul 🤞😉😉
@Kennedy’s garage thanks for the reply, I got the 1.5 diesel in the mazda 2/demio does it have the same sort of problems I had misfire on 4 cylinder warning flash up the other week but didn't come back yet
@@Paul-ik8fm the 1.5 isn’t as bad for blocking at all. The injectors can fail in them though 😬😬😬
WTF!! "fairly blocked"!!! That looks terrible! How many miles on that engine? Is the 2.5 G as bad? Do the dealer and/or DIY intake chemical cleaning really help? I have a 2021 with 14k miles.😮
Hey Greg, I don’t have any experience on the 2.5. But the intake on the 2.2 Skyactive blocks every 120,000 kms. This one had 240 or so on it. Removal is the only way to clean it, chemicals don’t really work 😉
Is the 2.0 Skyactiv gasoline engine carbonized this way?
No, petrol engines don’t be as bad at all. Thank goodness 😉🙏🙏
Working on a 2016 CX5 2.2Sk D. Smaller turbo is filled with oil and she has very little power. Where should I look? No codes.
If that small turbo is wet it is more than likely starting to fail. Remove the Map sensor & if the carbon is moist / wet that moisture is more than likely coming from the turbo 🤔🤔
I done a video on it just this week, I’ll copy and paste 👍
Mazda 2.2d Skyactive Turbo replacement walkthrough
ruclips.net/video/XJZ3AC2bAtc/видео.html
@kennedysgarage3281 isn't a leaning turbo an indication of a clogged or failing oil drain system? Turbos by design are not sealed to prevent oil from passing as far as I know, but if the drain is blocked, then the oil will overfill and flow by the compressor side and possibly the turbine as well. Any videos on oil drain for the skyactive D?
@@kevinross9493 oil strainers being blocked causes a reduction in oil pressure which will affect the turbo yes. But check it for movement just to be sure & yes I will copy and paste it in the next comment 👍
@@kevinross9493 ruclips.net/video/9fR6J4kv6Is/видео.html
That's terrible, effing egr's, recently having funny intermittent power loss on euro5 relay van, had couple of diagnosis fellas out, could find nothing, bought little Bluetooth scan tool to keep with me, to check when the problem came up, it showed egr valve stuck and dpf atomiser not functioning, strangely i got a can of egr cleaner to spray in the intake, both codes went and haven't come back, i wonder if it's safe to do that occasionally with the egr spray stuff, i noticed engine revs increase as you spray it, obviously igniting,??
I don’t have too much faith in aerosol cleaners but if it worked in your case the egr cleaner itself could be very good & is definitely worth a try beforehand. I would be great if you knew the name of it and posted it up here !!
@@kennedysgarage3281thanks for the reply, i will post that egr cleaner up tomorrow, this van is a bit of camper, working away van so it can be ticking over a lot, if cleaner is not harmful id probably do it once a month or something
Its Holts egr& carberttor cleaner from euro car parts, just read instructions again 😂😂 probably meant to be used on a removed dpf
@@DaveGreeneramblingcarpenter 😂😂😂 could be worse 🙏
How much would a job like this will cost ?
@@MrGenerous05you could expect to pay between €700 to €1000. Depending on the garage hourly rate 😉
Hi m8 hiw much do you charge for intake manifold an egr cleaning on a mazda 3 2.2d? I'm in England an don't want ripping off ,,,iv watched a few of your videos an you know what your doing
To do it correctly it will around 1 day to do , so it should cost around £500 to £600. It needs to cleaned right so cheaper is always better 👍👍
how many miles on that engine?
Around 140,000kms
How much do you charge for a job like this
Hey Steve, Walnut blasting the intake system is €700 + vat
How much would this job cost please? Roughly
Around 6 to 7 hundred depending on the workshop labour rate 😉👍👍👍
What causes all the carbon buildup. Is it because the vehicle is only mainly driven on short journeys.
I think it's the EGR valve, it recirculates exhaust gases to the inlet: common on diesel engines but there's something odd about Mazda Skyactiv engines that makes this a common issue
@@stupossibleify excellent & correct response. I couldn’t have said it any better 👏👏💪💪💪
Do you drain the coolant before all this?
I don’t, I just remove the top water hose & it looses around 500ml of coolant. It just makes it a little easier 😉👍👍
would blanking and deleting the EGR valve stop this. EGR was the worst thing invented
Yeah, I was wondering the same for my Transit. If it was plated off and engine remaped would that be picked up on the MOT?
I believe all the carbon buildup comes from exhaust gas recirculation & so my answer is yes. It would eliminate the carbon buildup. But deleting egr is getting close to the end with new emissions standards being introduced soon in Ireland & the UK. All very interesting 🤔 🤔
What is the mileage of this car?
I think it was around 140,000 kms from memory. But it is recommended in the service schedule to clean the intake manifold & ports @ 100,000kms 😉
how wasa this car even working
This happens to every one of them around every 100,000 kms or 60k miles
How the f*ck does a throttle body get that dirty? Did they run their car without an air filter and pour crude oil in their gas tank?
😂😂😂😂
No Mike, these engines actually run very high quantities of exhaust gas back through the engine to reduce exhaust emissions. With this exhaust gas comes particulate which builds up in the intake manifold & ports 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
anyway not the best video, showing thing that should not be done. Nobody needs any screw driver, you cna see valve sinside intake manifold and turn engine to close valves, also blowing sooth inside and catching with a vacuum is STUPID, you should first vacuum, and MAYBE only after nothing is sucked anymore-try to blow with compressed air. Not to mention that when you blow shit from manifold those particles goins into open, already cleaned ports, you never secured.
It is unfortunate that my videos and workmanship are not up to your high standards.
I also see from your comment that you are not familiar with the amount of carbon that builds up on the Skyactive engine, hence the screwdriver. It’s disappointing that you won’t be watching me anymore 😔😔
3:45 this engine is sooooooo clogged.... it must be cleaned with special chemicals, and oild sump filter changed ASAP. Also only ASHHOLE comes and sits inside cloth interiorwith his dirty, sooth filled work clothes.
You are very good at insults 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
terrible video quality. like from 2005's
I will have to employ a new camera crew 😂😂😂
Hi Peter... very interesting video... I have a Mazda 6 with automatic transmission 2.2 Skyactiv 175 hp year 2017 with 207,000 km travelled, it doesn't give me power delivery problems but I noticed that at low revs while proceeding on the road if I keep it down the accelerator slightly the car makes small jolts as if there was a problem with the engine, if I then press the accelerator harder the car no longer jolts and accelerates well... what could it be? I'm thinking soon of changing the lambda sensor, cleaning the EGR valve myself... then I would also like to clean the intake manifold but with the automatic gearbox how do I close the respective valves to do the cleaning safely? Thanks if you want to answer me.
Richard 😊
Hi Richard, clean the intake manifold & replace the exhaust camshaft and injector washers. This resolves the shudder at 1500 to 2000 rpm. Let me know how you get on 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Ok...thanks for the reply and the advice...by the end of the year I already intended to face the expense of replacing the timing chain and camshaft together with the injector o-rings...I'll do that also have the DPF filter cleaned by a specialized company....if I were in your area I would have come to do the maintenance at your garage but unfortunately I live in Italy 😁....please tell me what the procedure is for bringing closing the valves with the automatic transmission when will I do the cleaning? I also have my own camera that connects to my cell phone for inspection in the intake manifold ducts...Thanks Peter 😉
@@vrrcf you need to rotate the crankshaft pulley by a 21mm socket, extension and ratchet. This can be done when you turn the R.H.F wheel
@@kennedysgarage3281 very thanks Peter 🤗I will take your advice to heart...you are a nice person
@@vrrcf 🙏🙏
Hi Peter...I'm still Richard..just today it happened to me while I was on the road with my 2017 Mazda 6 2.2 diesel Skyactiv 175 hp, several errors appeared on the display including SCBS, Forward distance control error etc...and the automatic gearbox was bad... doing the diagnosis with my OBD2 with Torque Pro App the error code P0154 or the oxygen sensor came up. What do you think I should do? Do I need to replace the lambda sensor? seeing as it has never been changed and my car has already driven 207,000 km...then I noticed that the car consumes a lot. For now I have reset the error code and for now it is fine. Thanks for your advice
Has the Dpf been deleted??
Run your finger around the inside of the exhaust tailpipe and see if it’s really black or relatively clean??
Oxygen sensors don’t fail on these so I’d be weary of changing it.
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi Peter, no there is a DPF, in fact from my OBD I understand that it regenerates every 50 km
@@vrrcf you could have a lambda sensor or wiring issue. It could perform regenerations more frequently due to this fault 🤞🤞
Hi Peter great video and channel just subscribed. My 151 2.2 cx5 is making a noise, take a look at the video of the sound, have you heard it before.
ruclips.net/user/shortsE_NK7Ltxdso?si=wChSqxa0QZ9JG3Eo
If so have you any idea what it is, might be worth calling up to you.
Thanks paul