If there's pining or pre-ignition after treatment with CRC: pull to the side of the road, put the transmission in park or neutral, and rev engine a few times to 3,000 rpm but not over 3,500. If you see smoke from the rearview mirror, keep revving until smoke is gone, then continue driving at highway speed to finish cleaning.
@@sargisyoukhanna2873 I had spark knock after crc but it only happened for less than a minute, idled for like 30 seconds then i drove the balls out of it like it says to do. never heard it again and car ran better than ever. Its not abnormal for this to happen due to carbon breaking off of valve seats and what not. (Kia K5 GT 2.5 turbo)
@Burgher1605 I'm not really sure to be honest. If you look it up on Google it says and on the can. I quit doing it because I got a catch can that completely prevents this issue since it catches all the oil vapor and particles. I just sold that car for an audi rs3 though.
Well, I did the Veloster this past Sunday and experienced the same thing as you. Also changed out plug and oil and installed a catch can. Heard the pinging when past 4k rpm's and bogging down. I was scared too. So I cruised at 60 for 30 mins. 15 going and 15 coming back. Today is Tuesday and it runs like a champ. Wifey is happy. Next my Volky GTI.. Thanks. Gonna CRC it every 5K with oil change
I am with this guy and use this on my Lexus which is GDI also. IT WORKS! Once every 10,000 miles and you are in business. Keeps your intake and intake valves carbon cleaned out and off.
What the manufacturer does not tell you is that soot and carbon will contaminate your oil. This misfires and incomplete combustion when the fluid is injected will cause the fine carbon and soot to mix with the fuel and oil forced past your rings into the crankcase. This will continue even after the application is complete. How do I know. I performed oil analysis on the oil and I found skyhigh hard particulates in the oil. Anyone doing this must change your oil afterwards. I took two oil changes with 100 miles to get the levels down to normal. GDI engines introduce abnormal amounts of fuel dilution and soot into the oil, causing excessive wear. Do not go past 3k miles with GDI engines.
From those I've watched using the product what happened is basically normal. It can smoke, bog down etc until its finished burning off the chemicals/carbon. It wasn't reproduced because the product had burned off.
Perfect example of how our OCD with car preventive maintenance can actually backfire. I personally hate GDI fuel systems. Car manufacturers should do what Ford does with the new F150s, both port and direct injection.
I'm sure all manufacturers will do similar to prevent this. I have learned that my issues are a common symptom of the cleaning, and it's not as bad as I thought when first posting this video. You just have to be careful and go a bit longer before driving hard.
I did the crc valve cleaner on a 4.6l v8 and a 6.0l v8. I have no problems. The engine runs way smoother and has better responsiveness. I recommend if you want to take care of your engine to try this out. Be slow when spraying the bottle in. It will take you a long time. Maybe 15 or 20 minutes. There's a lot of liquid in the can.
I have a 2015 Mazda 6. I did this treatment and the first few times I floored it after the treatment, the car did exactly what you described. It also did the rattling noise and blew out white smoke out the back. I figured it was just blowing the carbon deposits out the back. After I did an “Italian tuneup” a few more times my car was totally fine. Within 5 minutes it was driving normally again. You have to drive it very aggressively after the treatment to blow out the deposits.
Youre a brave soldier! Lol. I thought my car was broken when it was rattling and blowing smoke at 4k. I kept trying to hopefully find out it went away. Only with time did it go away. If I knew driving it hard was the fix and not gonna make my engine blow up, Id have kept going and not bothered having it looked at.
The Adventure Mazda Yeah, the only reason I knew this was because I've done seafoam treatments on some of my past cars and they always run and drive like crap and smoke like crazy the first few minutes after you finish the treatment. By driving it aggressively you're getting all of the crap it loosened up out. With that being said, I'm not sure if I will do this treatment again or not.
An Italian tuneup is driving on the highway for at least an hour or two. You do not need to drive it "aggressively." The consistency of the highway speed and the extended duration will "cook" off carbon (not all of it, but most). With this cleaner an "Italian tuneup" is even more effective.
You can also use the PCV intake to introduce the chemical cleaner. You can also use said port with a long plastic tube which allows you to sit in the car while injecting the cleaner. This method requires you to maintain the vacuum so the cleaner is sucked in but is handy when you are alone and need to keep the RPM's up.
I own a 2013 cx5 2.0L and have 103k miles. I started using this product at 60k miles and everytime I use the product, I have the exact issue of not being to accelerate hard onto the highway. I think some of the chemical gets trapped in some of the crevices in the intake manifold after you spray the entire can. When you attempt to do a hard acceleration, the residual trapped chemical gets slowly sucked into the engine causing the bogging and rattling noise. But after doing the Italian tune up of just mashing the pedal and letting the car accelerate very quickly a few times, the motor will suck up all of the residual chemical in no time and your car will begin to drive normal again. I use this product every two oil changes, and everytime I use it, I also use a bottle of Chevron Techron in my gas tank. That product is supposed to help clean fuel injectors. My car runs very well, still has a lot of power. No issues, always starts up fine both in cold and hot temperatures and I still continue to rack up miles on the car! So I think this product works great.
@@eeiko321 if you have power seats, you can use a 2x4 or something that will reach the gas pedal and bump the seat forward until you get the rpms you need
arkkornkid that’s actually a good idea. Yes forgot I can use the electric seats to slide forward. I don’t suppose now if you would know where to get a curved/bent aerosol tube? Similar to the Seafoam one you get. As my throttle is at a weird downward angle, and I can’t take off the intake, it confuses the car.
@@eeiko321 No. It would be nice if it came with one. As long as you get the straw past the maf sensor, you're golden. My car did the same as you are describing, and so I had to leave the intake assembled and just lift the lid up. Luckily my intake tube is pretty short.
Thanks for documenting your experience. I used the CRC intake cleaner recently, following the (old!) instructions to spray in 30-second bursts, and had it throw an oxygen sensor code during application and the engine would knock at high load low RPM during the first 10-15 minutes of driving. I also removed the spark plugs after the heat soak so I could crank the engine to avoid hydrolock and to inspect the piston crowns. The two middle spark plugs were quite fouled and oily and the corresponding pistons looked dark and oily. I wonder if the cleaner might have temporarily fouled your spark plugs, causing the misfires. I've seen some horror stories in the reviews on Amazon, too. My car does seem improved but the process was pretty hair-raising.
If you spray it from the throttle body, it goes through the map sensor, but the manual says that it is sprayed from the back of the map sensor.. Doesn't the map sensor or various error codes appear even when spraying from the front of the map sensor?
Ok, it's been almost a year & 5k miles later. I change oil in my 2020 Santa Fe @ 5K . The CRC treatment worked great, the engine runs smooth & pulls strong. I will change oil this week @ 50K this means that I first did the CRC @ 45K. I am debating doing the CRC again even though its only 5K since the first time. BTW. I sprayed into the brake booster vacuum line. Thanks again for your video.
Have the same car but 2.5, and bmw 335i n55, when doing this procedure, it will hesitates a bit but once you pass that threshold off 3500 to 5000 rpm after a couple of times, the car will run ok. After the valve cleaner, then use the map sensor cleaner and change the engine oil.
Thank you for the video. After watching what you've gone through, I was more prepared as to what may happen. I think it may help to rev the engine a few times (keeping RPM below 3,500) with the car in park in the safety of one's own driveway to purge out as much of the cleaning solution as possible before taking the car on busy roads.
@@denttech2515 The 1-hour heat soak allows the active ingredient polyetheramine (PEA) to emulsify with the carbon. The emulsion will vaporize and exit through the cylinders and exhaust during the drive at highway speed. Any remaining cleaning fluid that's left in the intake path will mess up the air/fuel mixture causing the cylinder to misfire. You should purge out the remaining fluid by revving the engine while in neutral or park (so as not to put a load on the engine).
The job was done when you let the car sit for an hour. The whole point of the driving is to get rid of the solvent and the carbon which is now chipping off.
What you heard rattling is all of the carbon breaking off of the valves and pinging through the cylinders. The first time I did this I had a 300 yard cloud of soot trailing from my dual exhausts that looks like my car was on fire! I laughed at all the crap that this stuff blew out of my intake. Now my car runs so much smoother and idles so much better, its amazing!!
I did another CRC treatment on my 2014 Veloster last month. Hyundai/Kia gdi engines are known for bad carbon buildup on the intake valves, so I do it about every 15,000km and change my PCV valve as well, as it's a cheap preventative measure. Even in that short amount of km, the PCV valve has a bit of oil buildup in it and doesn't rattle as freely. I do about 95% short distance stop and go city driving, so usually the worst case scenario on the engine. Most probably don't need to do it this frequently. After the heat soak, the sluggishness and sounds you're hearing during your clean out run are common occurrences. This could happen until the CRC has completely cleared through the engine, which can be up to a few days depending on your driving habits. During the highway run, you want to push it, but if you hear a rattle of any kind, ease off the throttle until it stops, then continue again. This is usually due to bits of carbon breaking off into the cylinder causing a knock or ping. Check your rear view mirror after that sound occurs, almost 100% guarantee it will follow with a puff of smoke out of the tail pipe as the excess carbon burns up. But if you stay hard on the throttle during a knock or ping (of any kind really) you do have the possibility of damaging your engine, so ease off until it stops. A good idea is to take it for a second highway run the next day to clear out any final bits of carbon that may have continued to dissolve and break off sitting overnight. Here's a short video of my car having knock/ping after CRC. Every time it happens I let off the throttle until it ends. This went on for about 10 minutes, then the car basically came alive again and ran buttery smooth. Then I pushed it to higher revs 4000 - 6000 a few times and then brought it back home. Took it out again the next day and everything was perfect. ruclips.net/video/ntQM24WjJgQ/видео.html
Seems like you have an easily accessible vacuum port just after the throttle body. You may want to spray through that vacuum port. Keep the spray as well atomized as possible, so the mist can be drawn upwards. I noticed that the intake manifold of the CX5 has the plenum in the bottom and branches off upward to individual cylinders. Gravity is acting against you. The liquid will pool at the bottom. So, keep the spray well atomized so the air current from the intake stroke will pull the mist up and in. You can also increase the RPM to 2,500 to increase the flow rate. After heat soaking for 1 hour, rev the engine a few times (below 3,500 rpm) to purge out as much as possible. Thank you for the video.
That rattling noise you heard was spark knock (or engine ping). It’s normal with that carbon buildup making it’s way into the combustion chamber with the air/fuel mixture. But I’d definitely drive it easy for a few days after doing that to avoid spark knock.
It's going to bog for a little while directly after the treatment is applied. It is designed to continue working for a while after you use it. CRC says to drive 1,000 miles before doing another treatment. The product is designed to have some staying power and remnants of it will remain in the intake tract and get sucked through the engine over normal operation. The noise you heard was pinging from carbon being removed. I'm willing to bet you most likely saw some smoke out of the exhaust as well that went away over time. That is also signs of carbon being removed.
That is hilarious me and my wife did the exact same thing in our 2012 Hyundai Veloster and made the exact same noise as we were turning onto the highway it's in it blew smoke and rattled it scared us as well but the car runs amazing now we both had a good laugh over the fear in your eyes and voice as we went through the exact same thing. But I must say the CRC for GDI engines worked amazing it did the job that it said it would do there's no more painting and thing and out of our engine and we have much better acceleration now.
Yea it worked well for me as well. Its safe to use if done frequently and not for the first time when you have 150k miles. Those saying it shouldnt be done arent doing it as regular maintenance. Im glad you were able to relate to my video 😁
i have a 2013 hyundai sonata with gdi engine. i had carbon buildup so bad that it caused misfires and check engine code. i used one can of this and followed the instructions, problem fixed. have to give credit to where it is due. i didnt have to remove the whole intake and i would not know how. so, thank you CRC.
By the way, that easily accessible vacuum port just after the throttle body is the hose for the evaporative system. You can safely disconnect that and shoot your CRC cleaner through that port. Make sure you have a tight seal around the straw and the port so you don't have a vacuum leak to throw off the engine computer management. I'm hoping by keeping the cleaner in mist form while in the manifold will reduce the pooling problem as compare to shooting it in front of the throttle body.
I put a T connector before the PCV intake with a valve on one open end. Spray some gasoline once in a while in there, regurly. No need for frequent cleaners and taking off the intake.
I have to give you a thumbs up. You're bold enough to go into mysterious territory beneath the hood and you did a good job, particularly so for someone unfamiliar with automotive mechanicals. Since you have interest, I suggest that you find a car club that appeals to you and join. The guys in the club will give you all the help you can use. And good for you for trying and not neglecting your car!
I appreciate it! I'm becoming more and more familiar. I know quite a bit about mechanical, just not how to replace engine internals and rebuilding engines. But honestly I'm sure I could do that too with the right tools.
Though you didn't ask for my opinion, I like you so I want to suggest- Buy a factory service manual for any car you like and just flip through it each night. I know a lot but have always been amazed how much I've learned and enjoyed for the $100 or so I spent.
@@discerningmind I keep manuals at my bedside 😁. All of the vehicles I have purchased luckily came with the manuals. My new Genesis is the worst manual I've seen. There is so much info missing from it. I have to go to forums and facebook groups to find out info.
I just got mine done today. Now I'm just waiting for that 1 hour wait time, then go drive it for 10 minute. My intake valve had a lot carbon gunk build-up on it which is the reason why I wanted to use this crc carbon cleaner. Before that I did a little scraping and cleaning of all the carbon gunk that was on the intake valve.
I have a 2018 fird fusion 1.5 ecboost. just did the treatment today on mine. Mine didn't blow chunks of stuff out, It just struggled to shift after third gear and was blowing hella smoke from the exhaust. Then I slowed down and punched it after a red light. Lots of smoke, struggled to downshift from 4th gear, hit the interstate and punched it to 95 from the ramp and it was totally fine. I add seafoam to my gas and my crank case regularly, so that may be part of yalls issue
I use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. After following directions on the can take a 20 minute drive on the interstate then then you can slowly increase you engine speed to red line in a lower gear to help clean out any left over carbon. If you romp down on the gas pedal with out clearing the intake of any residual cleaner you stand a chance of fouling a spark plug and bringing on a check engine light. Depending on the intake design there could be a large amount of cleaner trapped and that could spell trouble if you don't allow time for the engine to slowly pull the cleaner out of the manifold.
can yo ushow me the locatiion for hrv vacuum line or is it better on intake near the throttkle body? for cleainning what interval yo urecommened doing this per year?
Same thing happened to me. Only difference I did is that I used my own scan tool to clear the check engine light on the Mazda, and it instantly drove normally again. I believe the stalling of the engine (same thing happened in my case too) causes the system to go into Limp Mode because it thinks something catostrophic is happening.
I love crc cleaner. It normal to hear a little noise at first then a little power lost. A few minutes later it will run great. Not like new but close to it. I use it every 6 month or less.
What if there was a catalytic converter, would those dirt, dust, carbon and oil come out of the combustion chambers and stick to the catalytic converter..or not..? ?
1 you ran the engine with the MAF connected, but no airflow going through it. This confused the ECU. 2 you cleaned the throttle body. This can also confuse the ECU. You have to do a throttle body recalibration. 3 you jammed the straw through the side of the intake tube. If there was a gap, it could’ve created a vacuum leak (extra air that the MAF didn’t measure). Again this will confuse the ECU. I think these things caused your problems. Next time spray it through the brake booster line. That way you skip the MAF and throttle body, and you don’t create any vacuum leaks. Stuff a small piece of paper towel in the end of the brake booster hose. Then squeeze the spray straw into the brake booster hose. The paper towel should create a seal.
I saw on another video where the gentleman used the brake vacuum line to perform cleaning (with PVC hose and drilled rubber stopper to do it from inside) but someone commented that the cleaner wouldn't get to all cylinder valves this way. Is that true? I'm preparing to clean my MAF sensor and Valves/Turbo with the appropriate CRC cleaners (2014 Kia Optima SX Turbo with 96k). During the last 2 wks I've had occasional lag on take off, with the last incident resulting in a check engine light. It's currently off but I was able to look up codes with OBD (Turbo sensor short code). I was thinking about doing a manual clean at throttle body first with cleaning towels and some of the valve/turbo cleaner. Your approach in the post makes you appear knowledgeable. Thanks!
so probably clean your MFA sensor just before you let it sit for the 1hr if spraying it while MFA is connected. I would also say do it right before oil change as well to remove additional left over deposits or liquids.
Great tutorial. I want to do this to my Cummins. It seem like it probably just needed to evaporate out of the entire engine and cadilatic converter and exhaust.
Took in our Mazda 6 for free oil change well they came out that they had to do the cleaning job for $180.00 or my warranty could be voided so I called Mazda 1-800 number they said keep my receipts that I’m doing the cleaning and all should be ok I hope this helps some of you out.
I use this (just used it last night actually) and didn't have that issue. But I'm guessing that you DID have some carbon build up. Thing is this stuff turns the carbin into to sludge at first so it can safely pass through the motor. That's what most likely caused your mis fire codes. The MAF sensor would throw a different code then that. It'd throw an air to fuel mixture code most likely. Cylinder misfire codes would come from some of the sludge getting into the plugs most likely. Once that burnt off boom it's fixed. That's most likely what happened IMO. I do know this, my 2015 Silverado has 87K on it and it developed a slight miss at idle in park and at stop lights. But no codes and my truck ran fine while driving. Never stalled either. I changed plugs, belts, battery, and even an ignition coil. Still no fix and the mis feeling actually got slightly worse. After just one treatment my truck's idle improved immediately after the heat soak. It didn't go away completely but that's due to the fact that I had a massive amount of carbon build up. Multiple treatments every 1000k for 4 or 5 treatments in a row fixes this tho. And to be clear, it says use every 10k but IMO using it every time you change your oil (5 to 7k miles) is the best way to use the product. This keeps everything clean. This is a great product. I will say that. If used correctly it will stop people with GDI engines from having to get expensive cleaning done to the valves and injectors (walnut blasting, heavy carbon cleaning ect). So it's all about maintenance with GDI engines. They perform better yes. But you lose most of those benefits if the valves and injectors get dirty. All in all I love this stuff and I recommend it highly. Again I'd use it every oil change tho if you don't want that episode to happen again with the codes and lack of throttle and such.
what if you didn't reroute the "out" of the catch can (or the PCV system) back into the intake of the engine? wouldn't that solve the problem with DI because nothing from the PCV is going back over the intake valves? i was thinking just feed a hose down to the bottom of the car from the PCV like those that drain A/C condensation.
Recently did this on my 2012 Kia Rio with 76k miles. I also heard the engine rattle noise after driving it at highway speeds followed by a enormous cloud of black smoke out the tail pipe that freak me and other drivers on the road out. I didn't know if it was going to stop but it did after about 4-5 seconds. Car been running fine since. Not sure what the heck happened.
Who ever wrote this comment is exactly right , your better off to do it this way !!! An old mechanic told me once that there was no such thing as a mechanic in a can, and If your gonna do a clean up of the intake valves do it like the person says . Remove the intake spray the CRC or whatever you like and using a round plumber's wire brush works great along with any small regular wire brush . Bottom Line is " do it rite or don't do it at all then you can pay a pro to do.it for you ! I caint stand lazy ass people who wants the best results with little to no work involved ! Hears the thing ; if your going to use the CRC product the way it written on the can , better start doing so when the engine has kess than 15-20k.... After that its to late as the carbon has already stuck to the valves .... Just my two cents worth "!" i really don't give a damn what you do about the issue !!!
@The913Skull Yeh I disagree with him a lot lol. I am no mechanic. I do love to work on my truck tho. And I use it to maintenance clean my motor every 5 to 7 thousand miles. But I got my truck used and it had a bad idle due to carbon build up. Using this stuff every thousand miles for the first few times I used it must've cleaned it up a good amount cause it helped greatly. Now I just use it every oil change and it has maintained a much better throttle response as well as a way better idle. So to each their own. But this works for me just fine without tearing anything down. That does work better for the first clean up for sure. But for me there was no need to do that. At least not so far.
I'm thinking that the highway drive after the CRC should be with transmission manually set @ gear 5 of 8 in my Hyundai Santa Fe @ 60 MPH to achieve 3.5 rpm with load on the engine. This would simulate hard driving without speeding. Thanks for video, I'm a little nervous, however tomorrow is the day!
You are supposed to drive it aggressively after the cleaning. My truck and car did the same thing ... you are burning all the trash you loosened up with the cleaner. Totally normal. Also the computer is learning the increased flow that it learned was restricted over time. It can take up to 150miles for the computer to completely relearn from the telemetry data. Timing will also be adjusted for the new air fuel mixture difference since more air was getting in the engine it had relearn over time to add different amounts of fuel which affects the timing.
Driving it aggressively made it feel like the engine was about to blow since it started shaking so much. I didnt know that the smoke was normal and just got a little nervous. I posted my experience so others could see how it goes and learn. I learned that its normal for my next cleaning.
The Adventure Mazda totally get that if you are not anticipating the initial jerky running. My 14 Silverado when I would mash the gas it felt like the traction control was cutting power and the truck was falling on its face but each pull got a little better. After about a minute of giving it a few WOT pushes it started to level out. I drove for a bit varying my throttle from half throttle pulls to WOT. I notice what felt like adding 30-40hp gain and nearly a second+ off 0-60 read from the OBD2 scanner. It honestly was like breathing new life into the engine. Hope someone reads our discussion and you can take steps to prevent the build up by adding an oil catch can in line with the PCV.
@@TheAdventureAuto I'm just glad your engine is ok at this point. These comments are scaring me to death as I embark on this procedure. As long as your car is still running I think I'll give it a shot. Better than a walnut blasting bill. Either way it has to be addressed on my car with a 96k mile GDI😏 Thank you for sharing your experience. Now I know what to possibly expect and not burst into to tears if it happens🤣👍🏾
I have a 2012 Hyundai Azera with only 76k miles on it. It still runs super smooth, zero vibrations or noise, no issues. I'm ocd with keeping the car and engine bay clean and use the higher end synthetic oil. So, not sure this kind of cleaning is necessary for my GDI engine.
It is absolutely necessary!! it's a GDI engine. You probably have tons of carbon build up at your mileage if you've never some this before. GDI engines don't clean the pistons with fuel like port Injection. Additives and synthetic oil don't help this issue.
Thanks this video is excellent. Just did this on a 2014 Kia Optima SX 2.0L Turbo, 60k miles. Worked great, no hicciups, no CEL's but hopefully cleaner valves/intake. My car idled pretty smooth before but it may idle slightly better now. Felt like it took a long time to empty the can I should have checked the time. Going to add this to maintenance routine.
It started to bog down , because there was still some gdi cleaner left in the intake pipe. The same happened to me. The best time to do this is summer , or when it is above 75-80 F outside. Once the engine gets all hot , it will go away , or simply just wait till the next day , after proper procedure , (waiting one hour and driving) warm up your car for 15 minutes or so before driving and it will dry .
I've not used this product myself but I have a GDI engine that I will be performing a walnut blast on the I take valves and ports in the next day or two. Believe when I say that I would rather have used this stuff in the past than what I am about to embark upon. Just a thought, would it have been effective to simply squeeze the "straw" between the PCV Valve and the intake duct/manifold with it being way downstream of the MAF? Just curious.
Hi. I just used CRC on my 2014 mazda6. Same issue with yours. But I decided to push very hard on peddle and continued driving for a while. Now it's running perfectly, but I found two error code P0304 and P0172. Should be no problem, I'll just clear these codes.
I just did it on my Hyundai with 30k miles on it and it does feel a little better. I only used half a can. And yeah when I went to do the highway driving part it let out a huge cloud of smoke and after that it ran smooth, I'm mainly doing it as a preventative measure on my GDI engine
Yea I experienced the tailpipe smoke a few times under moderate acceleration. At the time I thought my engine was going to explode. I hope its not clogging the Catalytic converter. I guess thats still better than clogged intake valves.
You cant run the engine when the MAF Sensor has no air going through it , so it has to be in the intake , just install it , spray BEHIND the sensor and do like they said
Thanks for video! My recommendation .. Use Seafoam. It has better mixture and clear instructions. But do keep in mind, it won't clean up the buildup completely! Walnut shell decarbonization will clean your intake valves. Nice detergent gasoline will keep your pistons clean. My friend had oil catch can installed on his new Skyactive Mazda, and he's little to nothing of carbon build on intake valves at 180k miles.
Im using seafoam for my mazda3 skyactiv. So far so good.. the only thing u need to becareful is when you accelerate your engine... making sure it doesnt knock.. and it takes abt 50miles to finished my seafoam inside my intake manifold. In Your case, your car feel weard bcs of the balance of the crc still inside your intake manifold. Due to our nature of our engine, the PCV valve sucked lots of dirty vapors into our intake manifold. Thus create lots of oil deposits inside your intake manifold. Once all the oil n crc been cleared, everything is going to be normal
Ive heard good things about seafoam. I just decided to go with CRC this time around bc reviews were all great. I definitely wont accelerate hard for a while the next time I do this. My engine is running the same if not a little better aince doing this, so hopefully thats an indicator i didnt do permanenet damage when it did misfire.
Ya.. bcs our engine has 14:1 compression ratios.. so when there's extra fuel or fuel vapors introduced into the combustion chamber, the engine electronic system will retarded the timing to prevent premature ignition. Thats why you heard the metallic sound like 2 steel pan hitting each other. Next time When u doing this, dont drive ur car immediately. With no load at the engine, making sure u rev the engine until the knock is gone... usually it will takes 30 mins. Then u may sees some white smoke appears at the tail pipes. Happy venturing
I worked at a chevy dealer years ago. We used a spray called decarb that was the same as this. Spray it in gradually,let it set ,and then blow it out under acceleration. Sometimes creating a ton of grey smoke out the tailpipe. Gotta clear codes after. I think its a tricky thing for avg consumer to use though.
Its perfectly safe to do. I'm willing to bet there was residual product left over which was getting pulled through the motor with the higher velocity air from the rpms.
Hopefully someone can answer. I have a 10th gen si. I'm planning on doing a treatment tomorrow. If I spray it in right after the MAF sensor that's pretty much going through the Turbo Inlet pipe. After the air filter, then after the MAF. That is where it goes correct? Thanks in advance
I am just thinking to avoid severe after effects do the process in more than one shot. My GDI engine has done 91k miles, so may have a ton of carbon. Doing the complete CRC can in one go may create large after effects, with too much carbon coming off. So I am thinking of doing this in three or four attempts, just removing smaller amounts of carbon each time. Thats my theory, not sure if it works like that though.
Hey man what’s up listen I have a 2008 mustang gt and I did the same thing you did right through the throttle body which to me is a waste of product and time so what I did was I disconnected a vacuum hose from the intake and the I sprayed it in that way dude it’s so much better or just connected to the brake booster hose which is another vacuum hose but my way it’s so much better and awesome results try it next time good luck
What the hey? It did look like your MAF sensor looked close to the spray point though. Mine would be a foot and half away. However, I have a turbo, and in intercooler before it even would get to the intake manifold.
Rough idle and loss of power are a couple of the symptoms. Its one of those things where you really dont know if itd help until you try it. But as you saw, you can run into some issues.
I got some white smoke coming out of my car when I began to drive it after I let it set for one hr. Is this normal. After sometime of driving it this stop.
The first time I ever used this product ,when the engine ran it made just one loud disturbing noise like a rod knock,just once.I was about to freak out but the engine was fine afterwards and ran excellent to almost 200,000 miles when I had to scrap it because Ohio road salt rotted the undercarriage.
The first time I did this product it scared me. A lot of knocking especially when you floor it. You just have to do normal driving until the product is completely clear.
do you know why the engine won't accelerate it won't rev and I give a code air intake temp sensor I cleaned and it ran and revved I did it on 2019 Mazda 3 and it knocked when we accelerated it do you know why this happens??
@@untitledduck9675 It knocks because the CRC ignites easier than the gasoline. The car goes into limp mode. Doesn't allow you to rev or drive very far. The engine is trying to save itself. again you have to drive very gingerly to prevent knocking. I recently did it again and the results were amazing.
I own 2015 honda accord and have 138k km i never use any products i only change the engine oil monthly and the gear oil every 40k km Do u advice me to use this product and do i need to change the engine oil after using CRC product ?
Dude, wheb the music kicked in, I laughed my ass off lol.. Couple things though: 1. I don't think you're supposed to spray it sideways 2. You can use two pieces of wood for the pedal to hold rpms and theb use your seats power buttons to adjust the rpms 3. Also, you really don't want to take your car to 4k rpms, i rarely get my Sonata past 3500, evenon hard acceleration. More rpms = exponential wear 4. This is probably the best demo vid on RUclips, thank you!! 5. I'm also nervous 😂
Thank you so much. I came on here to see how to use this. It just so happens we have the same hatchback, so even better for me. BTW, the bottle says to not use the can sideways.
I too service things that don't need servicing. Walnut blasting a method that is sure to clean your valves. This will only make you feel like you have done something when in actuality the smoke out the tailpipe is a result of the oil in the product burning in the combustion chamber.
I do clean my valves and I only use a quarter of the can. I don't think it's necessary to use the whole can it will flood in there that's why u got a misfire OR random misfire who knows.
I have a hyundai accent with a gdi, has over a 100,000 miles on it, would it even be worth it to me since i've had so many miles on it without being cleaned out?
I would definitely do it. It’s a simple basic engine otherwise. So your less likely to run into problems. I do it on my VR6 every 5,000 miles before I do an oil change. Works great. But 100,000 miles it may take a few cans to really help. I can assure you, your valves are caked with carbon. Kills you power and gas mileage.
Yeah that should do it. Unsure how long ECU store values in memory but I've found 15 to 20 minutes after disconnecting negative terminal is enough time. You could also buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter and use Torque App to reset codes, which should also take it out of limp mode.
If you need some great all season floor mats for you car check out 3D Mats using my link below.
3D Mats: bit.ly/3K1qCuo
$10 Off: ADVENTURE3D10
If there's pining or pre-ignition after treatment with CRC: pull to the side of the road, put the transmission in park or neutral, and rev engine a few times to 3,000 rpm but not over 3,500. If you see smoke from the rearview mirror, keep revving until smoke is gone, then continue driving at highway speed to finish cleaning.
What happens if u don't do that with a diesel 😅 just happened to me
@@sargisyoukhanna2873 I had spark knock after crc but it only happened for less than a minute, idled for like 30 seconds then i drove the balls out of it like it says to do. never heard it again and car ran better than ever. Its not abnormal for this to happen due to carbon breaking off of valve seats and what not. (Kia K5 GT 2.5 turbo)
@@flim_flam_shrim_shram6653what intervals is this treatment done? 22’ forte gt with 11.7k miles. 1.6L turbo
@Burgher1605 I'm not really sure to be honest. If you look it up on Google it says and on the can. I quit doing it because I got a catch can that completely prevents this issue since it catches all the oil vapor and particles. I just sold that car for an audi rs3 though.
@@flim_flam_shrim_shram6653 I’m looking into a catch can as well. Maybe go with that first then an intake.
Well, I did the Veloster this past Sunday and experienced the same thing as you. Also changed out plug and oil and installed a catch can. Heard the pinging when past 4k rpm's and bogging down. I was scared too. So I cruised at 60 for 30 mins. 15 going and 15 coming back. Today is Tuesday and it runs like a champ. Wifey is happy. Next my Volky GTI.. Thanks. Gonna CRC it every 5K with oil change
I am with this guy and use this on my Lexus which is GDI also. IT WORKS! Once every 10,000 miles and you are in business. Keeps your intake and intake valves carbon cleaned out and off.
Did you have a visual inspection of the intake valves or the intake cylinder?
Cat concerns?
I had none.
What the manufacturer does not tell you is that soot and carbon will contaminate your oil. This misfires and incomplete combustion when the fluid is injected will cause the fine carbon and soot to mix with the fuel and oil forced past your rings into the crankcase. This will continue even after the application is complete. How do I know. I performed oil analysis on the oil and I found skyhigh hard particulates in the oil. Anyone doing this must change your oil afterwards. I took two oil changes with 100 miles to get the levels down to normal. GDI engines introduce abnormal amounts of fuel dilution and soot into the oil, causing excessive wear. Do not go past 3k miles with GDI engines.
What do you mean don't go past 3k Miles?
@VP48 He probably means to change oil every 3,000 miles.
From those I've watched using the product what happened is basically normal. It can smoke, bog down etc until its finished burning off the chemicals/carbon. It wasn't reproduced because the product had burned off.
The honesty is much appreciated. A lot of RUclipsrs say they are not selling the product but never mention when something goes wrong.
Perfect example of how our OCD with car preventive maintenance can actually backfire. I personally hate GDI fuel systems. Car manufacturers should do what Ford does with the new F150s, both port and direct injection.
I'm sure all manufacturers will do similar to prevent this. I have learned that my issues are a common symptom of the cleaning, and it's not as bad as I thought when first posting this video. You just have to be careful and go a bit longer before driving hard.
Its toyota's thing they started both port and di way earlier than ford
I did the crc valve cleaner on a 4.6l v8 and a 6.0l v8. I have no problems. The engine runs way smoother and has better responsiveness. I recommend if you want to take care of your engine to try this out. Be slow when spraying the bottle in. It will take you a long time. Maybe 15 or 20 minutes. There's a lot of liquid in the can.
I have a 2015 Mazda 6. I did this treatment and the first few times I floored it after the treatment, the car did exactly what you described. It also did the rattling noise and blew out white smoke out the back. I figured it was just blowing the carbon deposits out the back. After I did an “Italian tuneup” a few more times my car was totally fine. Within 5 minutes it was driving normally again. You have to drive it very aggressively after the treatment to blow out the deposits.
Youre a brave soldier! Lol. I thought my car was broken when it was rattling and blowing smoke at 4k. I kept trying to hopefully find out it went away. Only with time did it go away. If I knew driving it hard was the fix and not gonna make my engine blow up, Id have kept going and not bothered having it looked at.
The Adventure Mazda Yeah, the only reason I knew this was because I've done seafoam treatments on some of my past cars and they always run and drive like crap and smoke like crazy the first few minutes after you finish the treatment. By driving it aggressively you're getting all of the crap it loosened up out. With that being said, I'm not sure if I will do this treatment again or not.
Hey what you mean by Italian tuneup ? To drive aggressive for 10 min in high way after the cleaning .
Yep! The bogging down and white smoke is simply proof that the product works.👍
An Italian tuneup is driving on the highway for at least an hour or two. You do not need to drive it "aggressively." The consistency of the highway speed and the extended duration will "cook" off carbon (not all of it, but most). With this cleaner an "Italian tuneup" is even more effective.
You can also use the PCV intake to introduce the chemical cleaner. You can also use said port with a long plastic tube which allows you to sit in the car while injecting the cleaner. This method requires you to maintain the vacuum so the cleaner is sucked in but is handy when you are alone and need to keep the RPM's up.
excellent tip.
I own a 2013 cx5 2.0L and have 103k miles. I started using this product at 60k miles and everytime I use the product, I have the exact issue of not being to accelerate hard onto the highway. I think some of the chemical gets trapped in some of the crevices in the intake manifold after you spray the entire can. When you attempt to do a hard acceleration, the residual trapped chemical gets slowly sucked into the engine causing the bogging and rattling noise. But after doing the Italian tune up of just mashing the pedal and letting the car accelerate very quickly a few times, the motor will suck up all of the residual chemical in no time and your car will begin to drive normal again.
I use this product every two oil changes, and everytime I use it, I also use a bottle of Chevron Techron in my gas tank. That product is supposed to help clean fuel injectors. My car runs very well, still has a lot of power. No issues, always starts up fine both in cold and hot temperatures and I still continue to rack up miles on the car! So I think this product works great.
Probably the best testimonial I've heard yet. You'd be a good salesman :D
How do you do the part of keeping at 2,500rpm if you’re on your own?
@@eeiko321 if you have power seats, you can use a 2x4 or something that will reach the gas pedal and bump the seat forward until you get the rpms you need
arkkornkid that’s actually a good idea. Yes forgot I can use the electric seats to slide forward.
I don’t suppose now if you would know where to get a curved/bent aerosol tube? Similar to the Seafoam one you get. As my throttle is at a weird downward angle, and I can’t take off the intake, it confuses the car.
@@eeiko321 No. It would be nice if it came with one. As long as you get the straw past the maf sensor, you're golden. My car did the same as you are describing, and so I had to leave the intake assembled and just lift the lid up. Luckily my intake tube is pretty short.
Thanks for documenting your experience. I used the CRC intake cleaner recently, following the (old!) instructions to spray in 30-second bursts, and had it throw an oxygen sensor code during application and the engine would knock at high load low RPM during the first 10-15 minutes of driving. I also removed the spark plugs after the heat soak so I could crank the engine to avoid hydrolock and to inspect the piston crowns. The two middle spark plugs were quite fouled and oily and the corresponding pistons looked dark and oily. I wonder if the cleaner might have temporarily fouled your spark plugs, causing the misfires. I've seen some horror stories in the reviews on Amazon, too. My car does seem improved but the process was pretty hair-raising.
If you spray it from the throttle body, it goes through the map sensor, but the manual says that it is sprayed from the back of the map sensor.. Doesn't the map sensor or various error codes appear even when spraying from the front of the map sensor?
Ok, it's been almost a year & 5k miles later. I change oil in my 2020 Santa Fe @ 5K . The CRC treatment worked great, the engine runs smooth & pulls strong. I will change oil this week @ 50K this means that I first did the CRC @ 45K. I am debating doing the CRC again even though its only 5K since the first time. BTW. I sprayed into the brake booster vacuum line. Thanks again for your video.
Have the same car but 2.5, and bmw 335i n55, when doing this procedure, it will hesitates a bit but once you pass that threshold off 3500 to 5000 rpm after a couple of times, the car will run ok.
After the valve cleaner, then use the map sensor cleaner and change the engine oil.
Good tips! I bought the MAF sensor cleaner and used that right after. The process works, but a little scary.
Thank you for the video. After watching what you've gone through, I was more prepared as to what may happen. I think it may help to rev the engine a few times (keeping RPM below 3,500) with the car in park in the safety of one's own driveway to purge out as much of the cleaning solution as possible before taking the car on busy roads.
I would think that you would want to have some still in there as you drive for it to continue doing its job
@@denttech2515 The 1-hour heat soak allows the active ingredient polyetheramine (PEA) to emulsify with the carbon. The emulsion will vaporize and exit through the cylinders and exhaust during the drive at highway speed. Any remaining cleaning fluid that's left in the intake path will mess up the air/fuel mixture causing the cylinder to misfire. You should purge out the remaining fluid by revving the engine while in neutral or park (so as not to put a load on the engine).
The job was done when you let the car sit for an hour. The whole point of the driving is to get rid of the solvent and the carbon which is now chipping off.
The intake manifold removal is also pretty easy. Six 10 mil bolts and its out. You gotta buy the gaskets tho and they're not that cheap.
What you heard rattling is all of the carbon breaking off of the valves and pinging through the cylinders. The first time I did this I had a 300 yard cloud of soot trailing from my dual exhausts that looks like my car was on fire! I laughed at all the crap that this stuff blew out of my intake. Now my car runs so much smoother and idles so much better, its amazing!!
I did another CRC treatment on my 2014 Veloster last month. Hyundai/Kia gdi engines are known for bad carbon buildup on the intake valves, so I do it about every 15,000km and change my PCV valve as well, as it's a cheap preventative measure. Even in that short amount of km, the PCV valve has a bit of oil buildup in it and doesn't rattle as freely. I do about 95% short distance stop and go city driving, so usually the worst case scenario on the engine. Most probably don't need to do it this frequently.
After the heat soak, the sluggishness and sounds you're hearing during your clean out run are common occurrences. This could happen until the CRC has completely cleared through the engine, which can be up to a few days depending on your driving habits. During the highway run, you want to push it, but if you hear a rattle of any kind, ease off the throttle until it stops, then continue again. This is usually due to bits of carbon breaking off into the cylinder causing a knock or ping. Check your rear view mirror after that sound occurs, almost 100% guarantee it will follow with a puff of smoke out of the tail pipe as the excess carbon burns up. But if you stay hard on the throttle during a knock or ping (of any kind really) you do have the possibility of damaging your engine, so ease off until it stops. A good idea is to take it for a second highway run the next day to clear out any final bits of carbon that may have continued to dissolve and break off sitting overnight.
Here's a short video of my car having knock/ping after CRC. Every time it happens I let off the throttle until it ends. This went on for about 10 minutes, then the car basically came alive again and ran buttery smooth. Then I pushed it to higher revs 4000 - 6000 a few times and then brought it back home. Took it out again the next day and everything was perfect.
ruclips.net/video/ntQM24WjJgQ/видео.html
Victor G pull off your intake manifold, you'll see this shit doesn't work very well. Manual cleaning with seafoam or acetone and a toothbrush works.
Seems like you have an easily accessible vacuum port just after the throttle body. You may want to spray through that vacuum port. Keep the spray as well atomized as possible, so the mist can be drawn upwards. I noticed that the intake manifold of the CX5 has the plenum in the bottom and branches off upward to individual cylinders. Gravity is acting against you. The liquid will pool at the bottom. So, keep the spray well atomized so the air current from the intake stroke will pull the mist up and in. You can also increase the RPM to 2,500 to increase the flow rate. After heat soaking for 1 hour, rev the engine a few times (below 3,500 rpm) to purge out as much as possible. Thank you for the video.
That rattling noise you heard was spark knock (or engine ping). It’s normal with that carbon buildup making it’s way into the combustion chamber with the air/fuel mixture. But I’d definitely drive it easy for a few days after doing that to avoid spark knock.
where did the carbon go to your exhaust convertor?
Catalytic converter
It's going to bog for a little while directly after the treatment is applied. It is designed to continue working for a while after you use it. CRC says to drive 1,000 miles before doing another treatment. The product is designed to have some staying power and remnants of it will remain in the intake tract and get sucked through the engine over normal operation. The noise you heard was pinging from carbon being removed. I'm willing to bet you most likely saw some smoke out of the exhaust as well that went away over time. That is also signs of carbon being removed.
That is hilarious me and my wife did the exact same thing in our 2012 Hyundai Veloster and made the exact same noise as we were turning onto the highway it's in it blew smoke and rattled it scared us as well but the car runs amazing now we both had a good laugh over the fear in your eyes and voice as we went through the exact same thing. But I must say the CRC for GDI engines worked amazing it did the job that it said it would do there's no more painting and thing and out of our engine and we have much better acceleration now.
Yea it worked well for me as well. Its safe to use if done frequently and not for the first time when you have 150k miles. Those saying it shouldnt be done arent doing it as regular maintenance. Im glad you were able to relate to my video 😁
i have a 2013 hyundai sonata with gdi engine. i had carbon buildup so bad that it caused misfires and check engine code. i used one can of this and followed the instructions, problem fixed. have to give credit to where it is due. i didnt have to remove the whole intake and i would not know how. so, thank you CRC.
By the way, that easily accessible vacuum port just after the throttle body is the hose for the evaporative system. You can safely disconnect that and shoot your CRC cleaner through that port. Make sure you have a tight seal around the straw and the port so you don't have a vacuum leak to throw off the engine computer management. I'm hoping by keeping the cleaner in mist form while in the manifold will reduce the pooling problem as compare to shooting it in front of the throttle body.
I put a T connector before the PCV intake with a valve on one open end. Spray some gasoline once in a while in there, regurly. No need for frequent cleaners and taking off the intake.
That makes sense... Maybe use Tecron that way?
I have to give you a thumbs up. You're bold enough to go into mysterious territory beneath the hood and you did a good job, particularly so for someone unfamiliar with automotive mechanicals. Since you have interest, I suggest that you find a car club that appeals to you and join. The guys in the club will give you all the help you can use. And good for you for trying and not neglecting your car!
I appreciate it! I'm becoming more and more familiar. I know quite a bit about mechanical, just not how to replace engine internals and rebuilding engines. But honestly I'm sure I could do that too with the right tools.
Though you didn't ask for my opinion, I like you so I want to suggest- Buy a factory service manual for any car you like and just flip through it each night. I know a lot but have always been amazed how much I've learned and enjoyed for the $100 or so I spent.
@@discerningmind I keep manuals at my bedside 😁. All of the vehicles I have purchased luckily came with the manuals. My new Genesis is the worst manual I've seen. There is so much info missing from it. I have to go to forums and facebook groups to find out info.
I was referring to Factory Service Manual, not Owner's Manuals. Is this what you meant?
@@discerningmind What is a factory service manual?
Very useful video, thank you. I am wondering was there a reason that you did not use the PVC valve to spray in?
I just got mine done today. Now I'm just waiting for that 1 hour wait time, then go drive it for 10 minute. My intake valve had a lot carbon gunk build-up on it which is the reason why I wanted to use this crc carbon cleaner. Before that I did a little scraping and cleaning of all the carbon gunk that was on the intake valve.
I have a 2018 fird fusion 1.5 ecboost. just did the treatment today on mine. Mine didn't blow chunks of stuff out, It just struggled to shift after third gear and was blowing hella smoke from the exhaust. Then I slowed down and punched it after a red light. Lots of smoke, struggled to downshift from 4th gear, hit the interstate and punched it to 95 from the ramp and it was totally fine. I add seafoam to my gas and my crank case regularly, so that may be part of yalls issue
I use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. After following directions on the can take a 20 minute drive on the interstate then then you can slowly increase you engine speed to red line in a lower gear to help clean out any left over carbon. If you romp down on the gas pedal with out clearing the intake of any residual cleaner you stand a chance of fouling a spark plug and bringing on a check engine light. Depending on the intake design there could be a large amount of cleaner trapped and that could spell trouble if you don't allow time for the engine to slowly pull the cleaner out of the manifold.
Great video and nice to see the positive comments about this product will buy and do it to my 2013 veloster time for a clean up thx .
can yo ushow me the locatiion for hrv vacuum line or is it better on intake near the throttkle body? for cleainning what interval yo urecommened doing this per year?
Same thing happened to me. Only difference I did is that I used my own scan tool to clear the check engine light on the Mazda, and it instantly drove normally again. I believe the stalling of the engine (same thing happened in my case too) causes the system to go into Limp Mode because it thinks something catostrophic is happening.
That bogging down is normal I use. The sea foam version of it does the same thing when it’s burning odd the residue
I love crc cleaner. It normal to hear a little noise at first then a little power lost. A few minutes later it will run great. Not like new but close to it. I use it every 6 month or less.
What if there was a catalytic converter, would those dirt, dust, carbon and oil come out of the combustion chambers and stick to the catalytic converter..or not..? ?
I guess it would have to, so large chunks coming off would not be good for the converter.
1 you ran the engine with the MAF connected, but no airflow going through it. This confused the ECU.
2 you cleaned the throttle body. This can also confuse the ECU. You have to do a throttle body recalibration.
3 you jammed the straw through the side of the intake tube. If there was a gap, it could’ve created a vacuum leak (extra air that the MAF didn’t measure). Again this will confuse the ECU.
I think these things caused your problems. Next time spray it through the brake booster line. That way you skip the MAF and throttle body, and you don’t create any vacuum leaks.
Stuff a small piece of paper towel in the end of the brake booster hose. Then squeeze the spray straw into the brake booster hose. The paper towel should create a seal.
You mean use the opening where he plugged back up just before the throttle body?
Novice MTBer no it's the vacuum line going to the brake booster, or just do any vacuum line that leads to the intake manifold
I saw on another video where the gentleman used the brake vacuum line to perform cleaning (with PVC hose and drilled rubber stopper to do it from inside) but someone commented that the cleaner wouldn't get to all cylinder valves this way. Is that true? I'm preparing to clean my MAF sensor and Valves/Turbo with the appropriate CRC cleaners (2014 Kia Optima SX Turbo with 96k). During the last 2 wks I've had occasional lag on take off, with the last incident resulting in a check engine light. It's currently off but I was able to look up codes with OBD (Turbo sensor short code). I was thinking about doing a manual clean at throttle body first with cleaning towels and some of the valve/turbo cleaner. Your approach in the post makes you appear knowledgeable. Thanks!
so probably clean your MFA sensor just before you let it sit for the 1hr if spraying it while MFA is connected. I would also say do it right before oil change as well to remove additional left over deposits or liquids.
Great tutorial. I want to do this to my Cummins. It seem like it probably just needed to evaporate out of the entire engine and cadilatic converter and exhaust.
Can I use this on my PFI engine (2010 Mazda 3 s Sedan 2.5l Automatic)
What do you think will happen if you exceed 3000 rpm
Took in our Mazda 6 for free oil change well they came out that they had to do the cleaning job for $180.00 or my warranty could be voided so I called Mazda 1-800 number they said keep my receipts that I’m doing the cleaning and all should be ok I hope this helps some of you out.
I use this (just used it last night actually) and didn't have that issue. But I'm guessing that you DID have some carbon build up. Thing is this stuff turns the carbin into to sludge at first so it can safely pass through the motor. That's what most likely caused your mis fire codes. The MAF sensor would throw a different code then that. It'd throw an air to fuel mixture code most likely. Cylinder misfire codes would come from some of the sludge getting into the plugs most likely. Once that burnt off boom it's fixed. That's most likely what happened IMO. I do know this, my 2015 Silverado has 87K on it and it developed a slight miss at idle in park and at stop lights. But no codes and my truck ran fine while driving. Never stalled either. I changed plugs, belts, battery, and even an ignition coil. Still no fix and the mis feeling actually got slightly worse. After just one treatment my truck's idle improved immediately after the heat soak. It didn't go away completely but that's due to the fact that I had a massive amount of carbon build up. Multiple treatments every 1000k for 4 or 5 treatments in a row fixes this tho. And to be clear, it says use every 10k but IMO using it every time you change your oil (5 to 7k miles) is the best way to use the product. This keeps everything clean. This is a great product. I will say that. If used correctly it will stop people with GDI engines from having to get expensive cleaning done to the valves and injectors (walnut blasting, heavy carbon cleaning ect). So it's all about maintenance with GDI engines. They perform better yes. But you lose most of those benefits if the valves and injectors get dirty. All in all I love this stuff and I recommend it highly. Again I'd use it every oil change tho if you don't want that episode to happen again with the codes and lack of throttle and such.
Just picked up a can. I would be nervous also, don't want to destroy the cat or turbo.
what if you didn't reroute the "out" of the catch can (or the PCV system) back into the intake of the engine? wouldn't that solve the problem with DI because nothing from the PCV is going back over the intake valves? i was thinking just feed a hose down to the bottom of the car from the PCV like those that drain A/C condensation.
Recently did this on my 2012 Kia Rio with 76k miles. I also heard the engine rattle noise after driving it at highway speeds followed by a enormous cloud of black smoke out the tail pipe that freak me and other drivers on the road out. I didn't know if it was going to stop but it did after about 4-5 seconds. Car been running fine since. Not sure what the heck happened.
Its scary when its happening, but seems to be normal of the cleaning. Glad yours worked out well.
Same thing you described happened on my 2013 Rio, but my smoke cloud was white. Don’t know what it was either.
So many master mechanics in the comment section.
Haha there always are. Some offer some good advice while others just reiterate what I said in video.
Who ever wrote this comment is exactly right , your better off to do it this way !!!
An old mechanic told me once that there was no such thing as a mechanic in a can, and If your gonna do a clean up of the intake valves do it like the person says . Remove the intake spray the CRC or whatever you like and using a round plumber's wire brush works great along with any small regular wire brush .
Bottom Line is " do it rite or don't do it at all then you can pay a pro to do.it for you !
I caint stand lazy ass people who wants the best results with little to no work involved !
Hears the thing ; if your going to use the CRC product the way it written on the can , better start doing so when the engine has kess than 15-20k....
After that its to late as the carbon has already stuck to the valves ....
Just my two cents worth "!" i really don't give a damn what you do about the issue !!!
@The913Skull Yeh I disagree with him a lot lol. I am no mechanic. I do love to work on my truck tho. And I use it to maintenance clean my motor every 5 to 7 thousand miles. But I got my truck used and it had a bad idle due to carbon build up. Using this stuff every thousand miles for the first few times I used it must've cleaned it up a good amount cause it helped greatly. Now I just use it every oil change and it has maintained a much better throttle response as well as a way better idle. So to each their own. But this works for me just fine without tearing anything down. That does work better for the first clean up for sure. But for me there was no need to do that. At least not so far.
I am a auto/disel tech of over 20 years have my L1 and L2 certifications.
I'm thinking that the highway drive after the CRC should be with transmission manually set @ gear 5 of 8 in my Hyundai Santa Fe @ 60 MPH to achieve 3.5 rpm with load on the engine. This would simulate hard driving without speeding. Thanks for video, I'm a little nervous, however tomorrow is the day!
You are supposed to drive it aggressively after the cleaning. My truck and car did the same thing ... you are burning all the trash you loosened up with the cleaner. Totally normal. Also the computer is learning the increased flow that it learned was restricted over time. It can take up to 150miles for the computer to completely relearn from the telemetry data. Timing will also be adjusted for the new air fuel mixture difference since more air was getting in the engine it had relearn over time to add different amounts of fuel which affects the timing.
Driving it aggressively made it feel like the engine was about to blow since it started shaking so much. I didnt know that the smoke was normal and just got a little nervous. I posted my experience so others could see how it goes and learn. I learned that its normal for my next cleaning.
The Adventure Mazda totally get that if you are not anticipating the initial jerky running. My 14 Silverado when I would mash the gas it felt like the traction control was cutting power and the truck was falling on its face but each pull got a little better. After about a minute of giving it a few WOT pushes it started to level out. I drove for a bit varying my throttle from half throttle pulls to WOT. I notice what felt like adding 30-40hp gain and nearly a second+ off 0-60 read from the OBD2 scanner. It honestly was like breathing new life into the engine. Hope someone reads our discussion and you can take steps to prevent the build up by adding an oil catch can in line with the PCV.
@@TheAdventureAuto I'm just glad your engine is ok at this point. These comments are scaring me to death as I embark on this procedure. As long as your car is still running I think I'll give it a shot. Better than a walnut blasting bill. Either way it has to be addressed on my car with a 96k mile GDI😏 Thank you for sharing your experience. Now I know what to possibly expect and not burst into to tears if it happens🤣👍🏾
I have a 2012 Hyundai Azera with only 76k miles on it. It still runs super smooth, zero vibrations or noise, no issues. I'm ocd with keeping the car and engine bay clean and use the higher end synthetic oil. So, not sure this kind of cleaning is necessary for my GDI engine.
It is absolutely necessary!! it's a GDI engine. You probably have tons of carbon build up at your mileage if you've never some this before. GDI engines don't clean the pistons with fuel like port Injection. Additives and synthetic oil don't help this issue.
Dude, just wanna say I love your honesty haha.
Thanks man! I try to show my true experience, even when its not the best.
Thanks this video is excellent. Just did this on a 2014 Kia Optima SX 2.0L Turbo, 60k miles. Worked great, no hicciups, no CEL's but hopefully cleaner valves/intake. My car idled pretty smooth before but it may idle slightly better now. Felt like it took a long time to empty the can I should have checked the time. Going to add this to maintenance routine.
It started to bog down , because there was still some gdi cleaner left in the intake pipe.
The same happened to me. The best time to do this is summer , or when it is above 75-80 F outside.
Once the engine gets all hot , it will go away , or simply just wait till the next day , after proper procedure , (waiting one hour and driving) warm up your car
for 15 minutes or so before driving and it will dry .
I could be wrong, but It looks like the MAF sensor wasn't removed?
What was that box right before the throttle body?
I've not used this product myself but I have a GDI engine that I will be performing a walnut blast on the I take valves and ports in the next day or two. Believe when I say that I would rather have used this stuff in the past than what I am about to embark upon. Just a thought, would it have been effective to simply squeeze the "straw" between the PCV Valve and the intake duct/manifold with it being way downstream of the MAF? Just curious.
What are u embarking on..the cost if walnut blasting? Ty
Hi. I just used CRC on my 2014 mazda6. Same issue with yours. But I decided to push very hard on peddle and continued driving for a while. Now it's running perfectly, but I found two error code P0304 and P0172. Should be no problem, I'll just clear these codes.
Awesome man! Sounds like powering through it is the way to go. Always makes me nervous tho.
I just did it on my Hyundai with 30k miles on it and it does feel a little better. I only used half a can. And yeah when I went to do the highway driving part it let out a huge cloud of smoke and after that it ran smooth, I'm mainly doing it as a preventative measure on my GDI engine
Yea I experienced the tailpipe smoke a few times under moderate acceleration. At the time I thought my engine was going to explode. I hope its not clogging the Catalytic converter. I guess thats still better than clogged intake valves.
You cant run the engine when the MAF Sensor has no air going through it , so it has to be in the intake , just install it , spray BEHIND the sensor and do like they said
Thats exactly what I did, which is why I was confused as to what caused my issues.
Unhooking the plug to the MAF would have allowed it to run, it would show a CEL until it was reconnected
Thanks for video! My recommendation .. Use Seafoam. It has better mixture and clear instructions. But do keep in mind, it won't clean up the buildup completely! Walnut shell decarbonization will clean your intake valves. Nice detergent gasoline will keep your pistons clean. My friend had oil catch can installed on his new Skyactive Mazda, and he's little to nothing of carbon build on intake valves at 180k miles.
Im using seafoam for my mazda3 skyactiv.
So far so good.. the only thing u need to becareful is when you accelerate your engine... making sure it doesnt knock.. and it takes abt 50miles to finished my seafoam inside my intake manifold.
In Your case, your car feel weard bcs of the balance of the crc still inside your intake manifold. Due to our nature of our engine, the PCV valve sucked lots of dirty vapors into our intake manifold. Thus create lots of oil deposits inside your intake manifold. Once all the oil n crc been cleared, everything is going to be normal
Ive heard good things about seafoam. I just decided to go with CRC this time around bc reviews were all great. I definitely wont accelerate hard for a while the next time I do this. My engine is running the same if not a little better aince doing this, so hopefully thats an indicator i didnt do permanenet damage when it did misfire.
Ya.. bcs our engine has 14:1 compression ratios.. so when there's extra fuel or fuel vapors introduced into the combustion chamber, the engine electronic system will retarded the timing to prevent premature ignition. Thats why you heard the metallic sound like 2 steel pan hitting each other. Next time When u doing this, dont drive ur car immediately. With no load at the engine, making sure u rev the engine until the knock is gone... usually it will takes 30 mins. Then u may sees some white smoke appears at the tail pipes. Happy venturing
I worked at a chevy dealer years ago. We used a spray called decarb that was the same as this. Spray it in gradually,let it set ,and then blow it out under acceleration. Sometimes creating a ton of grey smoke out the tailpipe. Gotta clear codes after. I think its a tricky thing for avg consumer to use though.
Does this stuff clean o2 sensors?
disconnecting your battery will generally create a RE-LEARN type condition.
Does this work on supercharged Audi s4?
@@dalton8082 It should work on any direct injection vehicle. Use at your own risk.
Its perfectly safe to do. I'm willing to bet there was residual product left over which was getting pulled through the motor with the higher velocity air from the rpms.
100% accurate. Definitely looking out for that next time.
100% accurate. Definitely looking out for that next time.
Hopefully someone can answer. I have a 10th gen si. I'm planning on doing a treatment tomorrow. If I spray it in right after the MAF sensor that's pretty much going through the Turbo Inlet pipe. After the air filter, then after the MAF. That is where it goes correct? Thanks in advance
Yeah!
Even you can install oil catch can this can help
I am just thinking to avoid severe after effects do the process in more than one shot. My GDI engine has done 91k miles, so may have a ton of carbon. Doing the complete CRC can in one go may create large after effects, with too much carbon coming off. So I am thinking of doing this in three or four attempts, just removing smaller amounts of carbon each time. Thats my theory, not sure if it works like that though.
Well... what happened? Did you try breaking up the treatment in smaller increments?
@espedale I've owned an EV for the last 3 years so no more maintenance or headaches like this.
Hey man what’s up listen I have a 2008 mustang gt and I did the same thing you did right through the throttle body which to me is a waste of product and time so what I did was I disconnected a vacuum hose from the intake and the I sprayed it in that way dude it’s so much better or just connected to the brake booster hose which is another vacuum hose but my way it’s so much better and awesome results try it next time good luck
What the hey? It did look like your MAF sensor looked close to the spray point though. Mine would be a foot and half away. However, I have a turbo, and in intercooler before it even would get to the intake manifold.
I have a 2014 Mazda 3 GT 2.0 with almost 70,000 miles.. haven't had to do this.. runs fine, although it does feel like its lost some power a bit.
Rough idle and loss of power are a couple of the symptoms. Its one of those things where you really dont know if itd help until you try it. But as you saw, you can run into some issues.
When you start your car without MAF sensor disconnected it will not start you have to disconnect maf remove connector than it will start
That's how you get a check engine light
So anybody hazard a guess as to what the rattling noise is/was?
I got some white smoke coming out of my car when I began to drive it after I let it set for one hr. Is this normal. After sometime of driving it this stop.
You have to drive it at highway speeds for a 10 minite duration to let all that carbon burn out.
Clean or replace the 4 spark plugs after you clean your intake.
It for sure got a little on the MAS sensor being that close to where you were spraying.
The first time I ever used this product ,when the engine ran it made just one loud disturbing noise like a rod knock,just once.I was about to freak out but the engine was fine afterwards and ran excellent to almost 200,000 miles when I had to scrap it because Ohio road salt rotted the undercarriage.
Good to hear. But yea a lot of time rust is the only thing that kills a vehicle. A lot of those old Toyotas run fine but frame is toast.
The first time I did this product it scared me. A lot of knocking especially when you floor it. You just have to do normal driving until the product is completely clear.
do you know why the engine won't accelerate it won't rev and I give a code air intake temp sensor I cleaned and it ran and revved I did it on 2019 Mazda 3 and it knocked when we accelerated it do you know why this happens??
@@untitledduck9675 It knocks because the CRC ignites easier than the gasoline. The car goes into limp mode. Doesn't allow you to rev or drive very far. The engine is trying to save itself. again you have to drive very gingerly to prevent knocking. I recently did it again and the results were amazing.
@@kaziklombax2126 what happens if i just keep driving with that knocking
@@untitledduck9675 Total engine failure.
@@kaziklombax2126 it only knocks when i accelerate
I own 2015 honda accord and have 138k km i never use any products i only change the engine oil monthly and the gear oil every 40k km
Do u advice me to use this product and do i need to change the engine oil after using CRC product ?
shkalkalkabombom not necessary to change gear oil that often
Dude, wheb the music kicked in, I laughed my ass off lol..
Couple things though:
1. I don't think you're supposed to spray it sideways
2. You can use two pieces of wood for the pedal to hold rpms and theb use your seats power buttons to adjust the rpms
3. Also, you really don't want to take your car to 4k rpms, i rarely get my Sonata past 3500, evenon hard acceleration. More rpms = exponential wear
4. This is probably the best demo vid on RUclips, thank you!!
5. I'm also nervous 😂
Thank you so much. I came on here to see how to use this. It just so happens we have the same hatchback, so even better for me. BTW, the bottle says to not use the can sideways.
Nice man, hatches are the best. Looks and fuctionality!
I double checked and my can doesnt say that you cant spray it sideways.
Mine says 'Avoid spraying sideways.' Must just be an update on their new bottles.
I remember this video, I did this 3 times on my cars. Not bad
I have 2000 isuzu rodeo 6cyc n i have not been able to get rid of the same problem he had a misfire in all cylinders after using this product
Is your Rodeo even DI?
I too service things that don't need servicing. Walnut blasting a method that is sure to clean your valves. This will only make you feel like you have done something when in actuality the smoke out the tailpipe is a result of the oil in the product burning in the combustion chamber.
I do clean my valves and I only use a quarter of the can. I don't think it's necessary to use the whole can it will flood in there that's why u got a misfire OR random misfire who knows.
The next time I use this I will probably not use as much. Using a little here and there couldnt hurt.
how did you keep your car at 2,000 rpm without having someone there to help?
I wedged a 5qt jug of oil against the pedal
Limp mode?
Is it required to use specific torque (e.g. foot pound ) to tighten the clip that tight the joint between the air box to the throttle body ?
No specific torque, just tight.
What the dealer did was reset the error codes and the vehicle did not display additional error codes after that. Everything went well then.
How did you keep the engines web at 2000 RPM?
I wedged an old 5 quart oil jug against pedal.
You removed the maf from the intake. Ecu is confused
I have a hyundai accent with a gdi, has over a 100,000 miles on it, would it even be worth it to me since i've had so many miles on it without being cleaned out?
Just leave yours alone. If it isnt done as routine maintenance you should go for walnut blast. Just keep driving it you may not run into any issues.
I would definitely do it. It’s a simple basic engine otherwise. So your less likely to run into problems. I do it on my VR6 every 5,000 miles before I do an oil change. Works great. But 100,000 miles it may take a few cans to really help. I can assure you, your valves are caked with carbon. Kills you power and gas mileage.
Is crc GDI intake cleaner MAP sensor friendly?
I am not sure, but if I had to guess I would say no. I know it's not MAF sensor friendly which is why I sprayed where I did.
Does anyone have tips on doing this in a 2015+ WRX?
Have you done this again?
I haven't. I sold the Mazda3 about a year ago.
@@TheAdventureAuto thanks for the update.
2006 subaru sti w/140,000 miles. I/ m readiness not complete, need to clear 1more in ct. To pass. I can wait . Emissions due 4-28-23
Several stalls with MAF not reading airflow probably set the ECU into Limp mode. Reset after MAF was reading correctly would resolve it.
So disconnect my battery next time after completing spray portion?
Yeah that should do it. Unsure how long ECU store values in memory but I've found 15 to 20 minutes after disconnecting negative terminal is enough time. You could also buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter and use Torque App to reset codes, which should also take it out of limp mode.