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Hi. A question. Why would you put a drain off inside when you can turn off the isolation and open the tap outside to empty the water? Is it just to make sure the water has completely drained? Thanks.
What is it with dogs! Love going in the sea when it’s freezing, yet take the hose to them and they give it their best p****d off look! Excellent helpful advice as per normal mate, and a cameo appearance from the legend Jimmy James! What would I do without you 2! 😁….back to piping up new rads for me! Have a great weekend👍
I love the contrast in the thumbnail between your face showing how proud you are of your new outdoor shower and your dog’a face, where she appears to be extremely sceptical and uncomfortable with the whole concept 😂
I Love how you show all your mistakes and corrections which for me reflects a real world diyers experience on a typical project and of course through these errors is where the real learning is done, thank you and keep up the brilliant work
One of those jobs that I still need to get round to doing is fitting an outside tap, just a cold one for garden stuff. I already fitted a tee and isolation valve when I was installing the kitchen, but unfortunately got confused while everything was switched off and pipes buried in the walls, evidently this connection is in the hot water pipe. Obviously I need to add similar to the cold one now, but you have just given me an idea, I can say that is for the warm dog wash shower for the dog that we don't yet have but inevitably will get in the future, all part of the plan, brownie points with the wife. Thanks Charlie. Also, I love soldering pipes too but I use the end feed type, if you are going to the effort of cleaning the outside of the tube, applying flux, cleaning off the excess, and you already have a blowtorch and some other kit, and apparently a reel of solder, then it is really no more effort to use end feed. I'm a total DIYer, I have no training in plumbing at all, but I re-piped about half of our house with copper tube and end feed fittings, not one failed.
Hi Charlie. Love your videos. I would recommend screwing the tap into the outdoor kit prior to screwing to the wall. This way you can tighten it up fully and then align it to be straight before fully fixing.
I installed an outside tap a few years ago Charlie and I saw this wonderful tip online to use a length of plastic pipe to sleeve the copper as mentioned by others- but the excellent tip was to use 2 appropriately sized plastic "O" rings to go over the copper pipe at each end to perfectly centre and brace the piping within the plastic pipe. Worked an absolute treat! Also stabilised the piping tight to work on when sealing etc. Fantastic video as always!
That's a lovely tip, thanks for sharing! Yes I should have sleeved the pipe - you always miss something 🤦 although I'm pretty sure it's not touching the brickwork particularly with the expanding foam. I could have put it though some hose pipe very easily though.
Great video as always, especially the little mistakes that help us all with our own similar projects. A couple of comments, I screwed the outside taps onto the fittings first to ensure a tight fit, then you can orientate them into the right position and ensure everything is nice and watertight. Also I sleeved the holes in the wall with plastic pipe, to prevent the copper getting scored and protection from anything in the cavity. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks Mark. Yes I should have sleeved the pipe in hindsight. At least the hole is 24mm, and it's highly unlikely the copper is touching the brick at any point.👊
Great video as always. Great job. Only thing I would suggest in the future is when you run a pipe through a wall it’s advisable to sleeve it/protect it so the lime doesn’t eat it. Might be wrong but that’s what I was always taught to do.
The copper will react with the bricks and mortar when there is moisture in the air. The cold pipe will leak in roughly 10 - 15yrs maybe sooner depending on moisture levels. The hot water pipe should last longer because the hot pipe should dry out any moisture present at the time.
Excellent video. Yes, plumbing is hard, especially in tight areas. I fitted a new hot water cylinder about 10 years ago, much more involved than I ever imagined, and learnt so much. I used the yorkshire fittings - loved them and no leaks. Enjoyed the input from Plumberparts - been watching both your channels for years.
Hi Charlie, couple of cable ties, Red and blue on the taps to identify the hot and cold for anyone who doesn’t know there left from right. Saves getting burnt!
Always use a narrow drill bit and work upwards. I know professionals can't afford to take the time but I usually start with 4mm and work up in 1mm increments - it's especially important for our 85-year old hard, cured, and brittle London sewer brick 1930s semi. Think you drilled downwards from the outside. Very helpful video and I've had this on my list of jobs for a year or two - good reminder to get on with it. Thanks especially for the advice to install drain valves
I have a small dog, and installed a butler sink indoors. I used a TMV and a deck mounted spray hose. It gives an upwards spray and fully directional (rather than a standard kitchen 'top-down' tap) to rinse off paws and belly. The sink is a great 'dog containment device' too. Also good for cleaning off boots and outdoor gear. Dishwasher for dishes of course.
Great thinking Rachel. And a towel to catch the little person before they shake 😉 Yes I should have mentioned the TMV as it can be a little tricky mixing the temperature.
I like it! I'd probably not have bothered with the drain offs and just open the tap when it's isolated so that any expansion due to freezing can work its way out, but you don't do things buy halves!! :-) When I did my new kitchen under sink recently, I've got to admit I took the easy way out and went pushfit plastic. I understand people concerns with durability but I can replace a push fit fitting with no tools and in minutes if not seconds so I think it's much of a muchness.
You deserve more views Charlie... I did this job in the summer and made the mistake of drilling and fitting the brass baseplates before dry-fitting the bibs. This way there is obviously no guarantee that the baseplates are the correct orientation to have fully tightened bibs... lesson learned!
Thanks, I appreciate that. You could have just applied more PTFE tape. That introduces more friction on the thread and enables you to turn the tap to the right position.
I fitted an outside hot tap for washing my dog. But instead of having two taps, hot and cold, and having to manually mix to obtain the right temperature, I fitted a thermostatic mixing valve on the inside. So, only one tap needed outside with the perfect temperature.
As soon as I saw the 2 taps, I immediately thought a TMV might have been a better idea. But..... As Charlie said, he learnt a lot so he might upgrade in a few years.
It's ok to have one tap with a mixer inside that's only if it it purley for washing the dog. I had to do two taps because need to water the grass wash the car and wash my dog . etc . And my mixer tap would be behind a stud wall so would not be able to adjust it. So horses for courses ..PS I haven't done any of the above as just fitted few days ago.
Great news Matt. And after watching it you won't make the mistakes I made and therefore hopefully spend just 2 rather than 5 days with your head stuck under the kitchen sink 🤣
Hi Charlie, you can get solder drain off valves, that slot into your chosen fitting. NB; Just remember to take the washer out, before you ‘blow’ the joint and replace once cooled. It’s always best practice to run your hot pipes above your cold pipe too. Otherwise, you could have condensation forming on your cold pipes.
Hi Charlie, comprehensive as usual! Like it.. I installed a 'hot tap' years ago just for this purpose and my dog must appreciate it I must say though people though I was mad but I could see the jealously in their eyes!! I installed one tap which was connected to the hot feed with a temperature limiting valve which includes a non return valve keeping the temp around 40c (they apparently use these in schools on wash basins to prevent scalding which is perfect) cheers Brian ***thremostatic mixing valve currently £39.95 at Vicky plum (uk) ***
Speedfit fan myself for small home plumbing jobs (e.g. connecting a water line for a fridge). Prefer the copper but don’t do nearly enough to get into soldering… Much respect for your setup here 👍
Thanks Ed, I appreciate that. Homework always essential, because I'm no different from anyone else in that I start most of these projects not knowing how to do what I'm doing so need to research everything first. Still missed the sleeving of the pipes though and people have pointed out a thermostatic valve on the hot water would suffice.
I've done similar, but with one external tap. I use isolators inside to adjust the temperature, which feeds into one pipe before going through the wall. I do prefer your method, however, as it allows for adjustment outside. I may well change it, as well as replace the isolators with full bore. Great vid, BTW. 👍
Nice work and really comprehensive video! Loved the cameo from James! Really appreciated the advice about the render repairs and care needed for drilling - so often done badly with these installs.
Excellent video Charlie. I really enjoyed this video because it’s the reality of doing such a job and all the additional jobs u have to do because u make mistakes (render) and that always happens in DIY (to me anyway lol). Good of you to be transparent like that and this is what makes your channel so successful 👍🏻 I learnt a lot here and will be looking to do something similar in the Spring
Thanks so much, I really appreciate the feedback - yes, I think giving the whole journey is important as that's the reality after all - we all make mistakes. 👊
I am about to replumb everything under my sink and redo all the wastes which currently go uphill for some reason. Hadn't considered adding check valves to the outside taps but now I will I have used the tectite fittings, generally I prefer hep2o or solder ring. However the tectite lever valve is a very handy fitting indeed. I used one to do a snatch fit when there was no other practical means of isolation and it worked a treat. Intended it to be temporary but I now see no need to change it.
I used two of these similar Tectite elbows next to my soil stack pipe, at the time I wasn’t confident of soldering next to, twenty years later still ok.
That's good to hear Jonny - thanks. Yes we had a lot of chat about the Tectite on the Discord forum and the lifetime of the joint was one of the things we were worried about, so it's good to hear some actual experiences with it.
@@CharlieDIYte If my memory serves me right, the warranty was only for five years as we were planning on renovating the bathroom I thought I would replace them well before then but never got round to it.
Nice job, I did this for my dogs a couple of years ago. I fitted a waterproof lagged box around my taps because most of the time my dogs get dirtier in the winter, so need the taps working all year round
Thanks Dave. Yes that's a good idea. I intend to use mine through the winter too. I guess if you know a haw frost is coming you can quickly drain the pipes but I can't see myself needing to do it very often.
Hi Charlie, great video, you definitely spoil DIY Dog with this setup. Thanks for showing your mistakes and successes, its one of the things that sets your videos apart. I too love using solder ring fittings, its a great sense of satisfaction to see the solder bubble out and a perfect joint made, but to be honest most of the time I am doing plumbing I now use Hep2O push fit connectors. They are so much easier to use, can use equally on copper and plastic pipes, they’re demountable, can turn the pipe to get the right fixing position and they never leak - all perfect reasons to use them for a DIYer. Be interested in the professionals view and what the regulations actually say about use of non-return or check valves in different installations. The link to the regulations you provided only describes the difference between the valve types, not what the regulations actually say. As I understand it, NRV’s are to stop back siphoning of potentially contaminated water into the drinking water supply. With modern UK water supply (we’re on about 7 bar in our house) I would question how likely it is that such siphoning actually could ever occur? Other thought is that with sealed water or combi boiler systems there isn’t the same risk of contamination as there isn’t an open cold water tank that the proverbial dead pigeon could be lying in - are the regulations different for such setups?
You're absolutely right. I too have about 7 bar here and an unvented cylinder so no rodents swimming in the tank. I think the regs apply regardless and from my point, if I hadn't put the check valves in someone would have pointed it out, but for general DIY I think common sense should prevail.
To be fair he's done it properly, I've not fitted a check valve for years even though I should. I've yet to come across a garden house capable of back feeding and contaminating the water supply. In this it would need it because of the mixing of hot and cold. So as I said done properly
Nice one Charlie (and help from James) really helpful video :-) also impressed with the end texture achived with your render repair! Great save there! Terrific. Sidenote: I have seen some people line their hole 🕳 with pvc pipe, then feed the copper pipe through. Perhaps for insulation of the hole I'm not sure.
Yep, you should line the hole really but I recently had to remove it when we refurbished the kitchen and the pipe was pristine with no signs of corrosion. I've just replumbed a radiator though and used pvc pipe 👌👊
I'm thinking of doing this as we have removed the bath. Our utility room has the washing machine either both a hot connection which is not used and the cold one which is connecting to the machine. Can connections to these pipes be used to extend to the outside connections without using the copper connections which you used ??? Thanks John
I use Yorkshire fittings whenever I do copper plumbing. Love it. I do sometimes use speedfit but much prefer soldering. Never tried end feed though. For bending 15mm, I've used a spring with something solid to bend over; works OK. Don't bother trying with 22mm though. Did those hose tap connectors have rubber washers in? That's what usually seals the joint. Nice little project.
Thanks Lewis. No plans to ditch the long vids. I do the occasional short to try and keep up with the way things are developing (ie far too fast for my liking 😩😉).
Great video as usual Charlie. Tried my hand at soldering rather than comp fit for the first time earlier this year. Loads of tips in here i wish I’d known at the time, especially proper deburring plus your recommended tool stack as well. I paid a plumber to fit my outdoor taps earlier this year and don’t think he’s done half as professional a job as your installation. Looking forward to the log store vid as that’s on my backlog (pun fully intended) to do as well!
Thanks mate. Yes it was fun putting this together although I should have sleeved the pipe in hindsight, but the diameter of the hole combined with the foam should mean I don't have any problems with it. 👍
I would have used a thermostatic mixer (same sort of thing you would see on your shower) on the inside, that means you can use a standard hose as the optimal temperature of 37c or your own choice will come out a single tap, then an additional cold tap if desired. I advise anyone else doing the same to go this route, as it will be a lot less trouble than trying to get the water to the optimal temperature each time and avoids scalding if anyone turns on taps elsewhere in the house. You won't find solderable check valves because they use a plastic part inside that would melt or burn in any soldering process.
Great video as always! Check valves, isolator valves and drain of valves are compression fittings because of the moving parts (often in plastic) would be ruined with the heat. By the way your check valves have a drain so the drain of valves were maybe unnecessary 😉
First of all job well done but... ... what were you thinking drilling a hole from the inside through the outer plaster layer ? Whilst watching you doing that I thought OMG there goes his plasters. Thats a bit of a noob mistake Charlie hehehehe. Later you are giving the wall a new coat of that special paint and whilst doing that you said there would be a link on the video screen but there wasn't any Can you give me a link for that stuff cause it looked great. But in the end all is well and it looked great BTW love your dog 🥰
I know. Complete noob 🤦 Here's the vid ruclips.net/video/zw_8YVFKY1M/видео.html I'll sort that link out - thanks for the heads up on that. It's awesome paint 👊
Another great video Charlie! Plumbing is usually my least favourite DIY as something pops up I didn't expect. Your positive attitude always gets you a good result in the end! Has the emperor paint continued to impress you? I'm considering it for my property over dulux weathershield...
Hi Barrie, thanks mate, I appreciate that. Yes I would 100% recommend the Emperor and the people who've bought it on my recommendation are also very happy with it. It's impregnable to rain whereas Weathershield is only resistant, and it's self cleaning, and breathable into the bargain. Do it, you won't be disappointed!!
Coincidentally I've been looking at this myself for last few days so great timing for me! Did you consider the Bullfinch External Shower? Looks pretty slick.
Why not fit taps with a check valve built in. Not sure about a drain valve. If you isolate the pipework in winter with the isolation valve just leave the external tap open?
I think you'd be better to insulate the walls in the wardrobe and/or concentrate on getting that humidity down as installing heating wouldn't tackle the cause of the damp/ mould
@@CharlieDIYte Many thanks for your reply. Can i ask if you have any suggestions on types of insulation material available to insulate inside the wardrobe given the limited depth. My wardrobe is a fitted one from floor to ceiling with sliding doors. My first thought was perhaps to leave the doors ajar to encourage air flow.
You can use a themostatic mixer valve. they come with check valves. hot and cold in one pipe 30-40c out. can't burn the doggo either if the washing machine starts filling up. You can turn the hot off for just cold too. Nice patch repair, can hardly see it.
Anyone know of an external thermostatic mixer for hot and cold outside taps? Our plumber installed the taps for us a couple of years ago (for kids paddling pool), but trying to get the right temperature is quite fiddly with a Y connector. I've seen some useful comments below about internal thermostatic mixers, which is a good thought, but we'd have to trek inside make any adjustments. Good helpful video as usual, thank you Charlie!
Looks like a nice neat job! I like the idea of using compression elbows on the pipes that go through the wall to allow them to be disconnected if necessary, and I think those brass screws for the wall plate look really nice compared to stainless Pozidriv ones (avoiding potential galvanic corrosion too!) I've heard that expanding foam is corrosive to copper, although I do find that hard to believe. Does anyone know whether this is true? I think it's a good idea to line the holes through the wall with a second, larger, pipe (copper or plastic) and to put a bead of silicone sealant behind the wall plates. By the way, you can get end feed drain offs, just don't forget to remove the internals before soldering, so the rubber washers don't get melted!
Without knowing the exact model of dishwasher I cannot be absolutely positive but on many that I have seen over the years the fitting which takes the water through to the machine should be vertical! Might be worth checking as otherwise the safety factor of this device might not work. I would also sleeve the pipes through the walls as it is now a requirement for gas pipes and if they can be affected then so can water pipes.
I'm impressed even if the dogs aren't 🤣 I guess you've got that in an equally push utility room? Sadly we don't have one - something we'd like to install if we ever get to build an extension.
Hi, I cannot find the link to the shower itself. Has it broken since you made this? :) Thank you for your video. Just found it and showed it to my plumber. All the best. Dode
You could have done a hot/cold outside tap like this with just just one tap if you had used a TMV under the sink, you just set the temperature of the water you require and away you go one tap
Thanks Vince. A few naysayers have said I should have used a temperature modulating valve removing the need for a hot and cold feed but I like having the option of hot or cold water.
I rally enjoyed watching it, but seems very complicated! I know not. I want to do exactly the same. As I have a fox red puppy 6 month old labourer and yes he gets very muddy on his legs and belly!
Simplify it by installing a thermostatic valve, they include the check valves already and you only have to install one tap, you don't really need the drain offs if you have the isolators, just leave the tap in the open position when you isolate them to avoid any freezing causing them to burst.
I didn't see the point in fitting the doc because what do you think was going to happen when you turn the outside taps off and open them . More to fit in which you didn't need , Great vid though 👍
First of all the pipes through the wall should be sleeved because if the copper came into contact with cement it will coorode.Secondly you should fit a tMV2 valve to set a maximum temperature because a dog can not tell you if it gets too hot
Thanks Gary. Yes should have mentioned sleeving. Shouldn't be a problem with mine though given the foam I piped in meaning the pipe's not touching the brick but I take your point. Yes should also have mentioned thermostatic mixers.
LSX in my opinion ISN'T a jointing compound. People use it in desperation on condense pipes, sealing grommets. Or leaks on the OUTSIDE of the joint not on the olive. So let's says there a leak on a screwed on iron, but you can't undo the iron so you LSX the outside the EXTERNAL which is why it's marketed as such. I'm sure you can use it otherwise, but I would never use it like that
Sorry, Charlie, I don't understand why you didn't install a thermostatic Mixing Valve with a prv for the cold under the sink and just have one single tap outdoors that was a constant warm temp for the dog. TMV's aren't that expensive after all.
@@CharlieDIYte HSS definitely do them, they are around 70 to 100 pounds a day, obviously the longer you hire the less it is. So for example it's cheaper to hire for a weekend than it is for 1 day.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools.
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Hi. A question. Why would you put a drain off inside when you can turn off the isolation and open the tap outside to empty the water? Is it just to make sure the water has completely drained? Thanks.
What is it with dogs! Love going in the sea when it’s freezing, yet take the hose to them and they give it their best p****d off look!
Excellent helpful advice as per normal mate, and a cameo appearance from the legend Jimmy James! What would I do without you 2! 😁….back to piping up new rads for me! Have a great weekend👍
I love the contrast in the thumbnail between your face showing how proud you are of your new outdoor shower and your dog’a face, where she appears to be extremely sceptical and uncomfortable with the whole concept 😂
Thanks. Yes she wasn't at all happy but I bribed her with a biscuit in return for her cameo at the end. 🤣
@@CharlieDIYte biscuits/chicken will fix all dog related issues 🙂
@@CharlieDIYte it’s a very cool idea though. Hopefully you have some protection for freezing in the winter months?
I Love how you show all your mistakes and corrections which for me reflects a real world diyers experience on a typical project and of course through these errors is where the real learning is done, thank you and keep up the brilliant work
Thanks Shishu - definitely have to mention the mistakes 😉
The mistakes are the most helpful parts of these videos. ❤ learn such a lot. Thank you.
Brilliant job Charlie!! I've always been scared of plumbing! I ♥️ DIY dog!!
One of those jobs that I still need to get round to doing is fitting an outside tap, just a cold one for garden stuff. I already fitted a tee and isolation valve when I was installing the kitchen, but unfortunately got confused while everything was switched off and pipes buried in the walls, evidently this connection is in the hot water pipe. Obviously I need to add similar to the cold one now, but you have just given me an idea, I can say that is for the warm dog wash shower for the dog that we don't yet have but inevitably will get in the future, all part of the plan, brownie points with the wife. Thanks Charlie.
Also, I love soldering pipes too but I use the end feed type, if you are going to the effort of cleaning the outside of the tube, applying flux, cleaning off the excess, and you already have a blowtorch and some other kit, and apparently a reel of solder, then it is really no more effort to use end feed. I'm a total DIYer, I have no training in plumbing at all, but I re-piped about half of our house with copper tube and end feed fittings, not one failed.
Hi Charlie. Love your videos. I would recommend screwing the tap into the outdoor kit prior to screwing to the wall. This way you can tighten it up fully and then align it to be straight before fully fixing.
I installed an outside tap a few years ago Charlie and I saw this wonderful tip online to use a length of plastic pipe to sleeve the copper as mentioned by others- but the excellent tip was to use 2 appropriately sized plastic "O" rings to go over the copper pipe at each end to perfectly centre and brace the piping within the plastic pipe. Worked an absolute treat! Also stabilised the piping tight to work on when sealing etc.
Fantastic video as always!
That's a lovely tip, thanks for sharing! Yes I should have sleeved the pipe - you always miss something 🤦 although I'm pretty sure it's not touching the brickwork particularly with the expanding foam. I could have put it though some hose pipe very easily though.
Great video as always, especially the little mistakes that help us all with our own similar projects. A couple of comments, I screwed the outside taps onto the fittings first to ensure a tight fit, then you can orientate them into the right position and ensure everything is nice and watertight. Also I sleeved the holes in the wall with plastic pipe, to prevent the copper getting scored and protection from anything in the cavity. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks Mark. Yes I should have sleeved the pipe in hindsight. At least the hole is 24mm, and it's highly unlikely the copper is touching the brick at any point.👊
Great video as always. Great job.
Only thing I would suggest in the future is when you run a pipe through a wall it’s advisable to sleeve it/protect it so the lime doesn’t eat it. Might be wrong but that’s what I was always taught to do.
The copper will react with the bricks and mortar when there is moisture in the air. The cold pipe will leak in roughly 10 - 15yrs maybe sooner depending on moisture levels. The hot water pipe should last longer because the hot pipe should dry out any moisture present at the time.
My 2 favourite RUclips channels doing a collab. Nice one.
Excellent video. Yes, plumbing is hard, especially in tight areas. I fitted a new hot water cylinder about 10 years ago, much more involved than I ever imagined, and learnt so much. I used the yorkshire fittings - loved them and no leaks. Enjoyed the input from Plumberparts - been watching both your channels for years.
Thanks, and great work with the hot water cylinder - no mean feat, that! 👌👍
Hi Charlie, couple of cable ties, Red and blue on the taps to identify the hot and cold for anyone who doesn’t know there left from right. Saves getting burnt!
Good thinking Lee. 👌
I never thought about using a nail punch to start a drill hole on render or textured masonry. Great little idea!
Always use a narrow drill bit and work upwards. I know professionals can't afford to take the time but I usually start with 4mm and work up in 1mm increments - it's especially important for our 85-year old hard, cured, and brittle London sewer brick 1930s semi. Think you drilled downwards from the outside. Very helpful video and I've had this on my list of jobs for a year or two - good reminder to get on with it. Thanks especially for the advice to install drain valves
I have a small dog, and installed a butler sink indoors. I used a TMV and a deck mounted spray hose. It gives an upwards spray and fully directional (rather than a standard kitchen 'top-down' tap) to rinse off paws and belly. The sink is a great 'dog containment device' too. Also good for cleaning off boots and outdoor gear. Dishwasher for dishes of course.
Great thinking Rachel. And a towel to catch the little person before they shake 😉 Yes I should have mentioned the TMV as it can be a little tricky mixing the temperature.
I like it! I'd probably not have bothered with the drain offs and just open the tap when it's isolated so that any expansion due to freezing can work its way out, but you don't do things buy halves!! :-) When I did my new kitchen under sink recently, I've got to admit I took the easy way out and went pushfit plastic. I understand people concerns with durability but I can replace a push fit fitting with no tools and in minutes if not seconds so I think it's much of a muchness.
You deserve more views Charlie... I did this job in the summer and made the mistake of drilling and fitting the brass baseplates before dry-fitting the bibs. This way there is obviously no guarantee that the baseplates are the correct orientation to have fully tightened bibs... lesson learned!
Thanks, I appreciate that. You could have just applied more PTFE tape. That introduces more friction on the thread and enables you to turn the tap to the right position.
I fitted an outside hot tap for washing my dog. But instead of having two taps, hot and cold, and having to manually mix to obtain the right temperature, I fitted a thermostatic mixing valve on the inside. So, only one tap needed outside with the perfect temperature.
Probably safer too as it's easier to maintain a constant temperature.
As soon as I saw the 2 taps, I immediately thought a TMV might have been a better idea. But..... As Charlie said, he learnt a lot so he might upgrade in a few years.
Would make far more sense....
So did I. I am surprised Charlie didn’t use this method. Much neater on the outside wall.
It's ok to have one tap with a mixer inside that's only if it it purley for washing the dog.
I had to do two taps because need to water the grass wash the car and wash my dog . etc . And my mixer tap would be behind a stud wall so would not be able to adjust it. So horses for courses ..PS I haven't done any of the above as just fitted few days ago.
I was talking about having an outside tap for the dog this week - looking forward to watching this!
Great news Matt. And after watching it you won't make the mistakes I made and therefore hopefully spend just 2 rather than 5 days with your head stuck under the kitchen sink 🤣
More video's with DIY Dog please Charlie.
Hi Charlie, you can get solder drain off valves, that slot into your chosen fitting. NB; Just remember to take the washer out, before you ‘blow’ the joint and replace once cooled.
It’s always best practice to run your hot pipes above your cold pipe too. Otherwise, you could have condensation forming on your cold pipes.
Hi Charlie, comprehensive as usual! Like it..
I installed a 'hot tap' years ago just for this purpose and my dog must appreciate it
I must say though people though I was mad but I could see the jealously in their eyes!!
I installed one tap which was connected to the hot feed with a temperature limiting valve which includes a non return valve keeping the temp around 40c (they apparently use these in schools on wash basins to prevent scalding which is perfect) cheers Brian
***thremostatic mixing valve currently £39.95 at Vicky plum (uk) ***
Brian that's next level. Great thinking because it can be a bit tricky balancing the temperature with these taps.
Speedfit fan myself for small home plumbing jobs (e.g. connecting a water line for a fridge). Prefer the copper but don’t do nearly enough to get into soldering…
Much respect for your setup here 👍
Love the way you really do your homework and the results are always so neat . Ed
Thanks Ed, I appreciate that. Homework always essential, because I'm no different from anyone else in that I start most of these projects not knowing how to do what I'm doing so need to research everything first. Still missed the sleeving of the pipes though and people have pointed out a thermostatic valve on the hot water would suffice.
I've done similar, but with one external tap. I use isolators inside to adjust the temperature, which feeds into one pipe before going through the wall. I do prefer your method, however, as it allows for adjustment outside. I may well change it, as well as replace the isolators with full bore. Great vid, BTW. 👍
Nice work and really comprehensive video! Loved the cameo from James! Really appreciated the advice about the render repairs and care needed for drilling - so often done badly with these installs.
Thanks Graham. Probably should have sleeved the pipes too. There's always something 🤦😉
Excellent video Charlie. I really enjoyed this video because it’s the reality of doing such a job and all the additional jobs u have to do because u make mistakes (render) and that always happens in DIY (to me anyway lol). Good of you to be transparent like that and this is what makes your channel so successful 👍🏻 I learnt a lot here and will be looking to do something similar in the Spring
Thanks so much, I really appreciate the feedback - yes, I think giving the whole journey is important as that's the reality after all - we all make mistakes. 👊
Cracking video - just what I need to make cleaning the bike more comfortable, and easier...once the hosepipe ban is lifted!
I am about to replumb everything under my sink and redo all the wastes which currently go uphill for some reason. Hadn't considered adding check valves to the outside taps but now I will
I have used the tectite fittings, generally I prefer hep2o or solder ring. However the tectite lever valve is a very handy fitting indeed. I used one to do a snatch fit when there was no other practical means of isolation and it worked a treat. Intended it to be temporary but I now see no need to change it.
I used two of these similar Tectite elbows next to my soil stack pipe, at the time I wasn’t confident of soldering next to, twenty years later still ok.
That's good to hear Jonny - thanks. Yes we had a lot of chat about the Tectite on the Discord forum and the lifetime of the joint was one of the things we were worried about, so it's good to hear some actual experiences with it.
@@CharlieDIYte If my memory serves me right, the warranty was only for five years as we were planning on renovating the bathroom I thought I would replace them well before then but never got round to it.
If they are talon pipe clips you can buy spacers that connect straight on to the clips. Saves using timber, copper as a packer 👍🏼
Thanks. Nice tip 👊
For the Mud Charlie, Id built a wooden shower pan which you can clean. Something you’d see at a beach shower etc.
Nice job, I did this for my dogs a couple of years ago. I fitted a waterproof lagged box around my taps
because most of the time my dogs get dirtier in the winter, so need the taps working all year round
Thanks Dave. Yes that's a good idea. I intend to use mine through the winter too. I guess if you know a haw frost is coming you can quickly drain the pipes but I can't see myself needing to do it very often.
Hi Charlie, great video, you definitely spoil DIY Dog with this setup. Thanks for showing your mistakes and successes, its one of the things that sets your videos apart.
I too love using solder ring fittings, its a great sense of satisfaction to see the solder bubble out and a perfect joint made, but to be honest most of the time I am doing plumbing I now use Hep2O push fit connectors. They are so much easier to use, can use equally on copper and plastic pipes, they’re demountable, can turn the pipe to get the right fixing position and they never leak - all perfect reasons to use them for a DIYer.
Be interested in the professionals view and what the regulations actually say about use of non-return or check valves in different installations. The link to the regulations you provided only describes the difference between the valve types, not what the regulations actually say. As I understand it, NRV’s are to stop back siphoning of potentially contaminated water into the drinking water supply. With modern UK water supply (we’re on about 7 bar in our house) I would question how likely it is that such siphoning actually could ever occur? Other thought is that with sealed water or combi boiler systems there isn’t the same risk of contamination as there isn’t an open cold water tank that the proverbial dead pigeon could be lying in - are the regulations different for such setups?
You're absolutely right. I too have about 7 bar here and an unvented cylinder so no rodents swimming in the tank. I think the regs apply regardless and from my point, if I hadn't put the check valves in someone would have pointed it out, but for general DIY I think common sense should prevail.
Loved the video mate it was like watching myself I put stuff in and remove and reinstall all the time
Thanks mate. Yep with the new water main pressure reducing valve I must have had it in and out about 6 times 🤦🤣
Does the copper pipe need sleeving where it goes through the wall?
Do i need to add a toothbrush to my tool kit now 😂? To be honest it did a good match on the finish.
Lovely job Charlie. I would say maybe a little sleeve for the copper through the wall would be nice just to protect that pipe a little.
I did that last week I did put a butter sink up as well very handy it is. Keep up the good work Charlie 👍
Excellent video, Charlie. Glad to see it's not just me that has to redo things! 😉😂
To be fair he's done it properly, I've not fitted a check valve for years even though I should. I've yet to come across a garden house capable of back feeding and contaminating the water supply. In this it would need it because of the mixing of hot and cold. So as I said done properly
Awesome! BTW, I love the long videos! The longer the better
Thanks Garviel. Don't worry, I won't be turning my back on long form any time soon. 👊
Nice one Charlie (and help from James) really helpful video :-) also impressed with the end texture achived with your render repair! Great save there! Terrific.
Sidenote: I have seen some people line their hole 🕳 with pvc pipe, then feed the copper pipe through. Perhaps for insulation of the hole I'm not sure.
Yep, you should line the hole really but I recently had to remove it when we refurbished the kitchen and the pipe was pristine with no signs of corrosion. I've just replumbed a radiator though and used pvc pipe 👌👊
I cant find this hose , any help appreciated pls
I'm thinking of doing this as we have removed the bath. Our utility room has the washing machine either both a hot connection which is not used and the cold one which is connecting to the machine. Can connections to these pipes be used to extend to the outside connections without using the copper connections which you used ??? Thanks John
I use Yorkshire fittings whenever I do copper plumbing. Love it. I do sometimes use speedfit but much prefer soldering. Never tried end feed though.
For bending 15mm, I've used a spring with something solid to bend over; works OK. Don't bother trying with 22mm though.
Did those hose tap connectors have rubber washers in? That's what usually seals the joint.
Nice little project.
You can bend 22mm with a spring but the copper needs to be annealed first.
Great video, the longer the videos are the better
Thanks Lewis. No plans to ditch the long vids. I do the occasional short to try and keep up with the way things are developing (ie far too fast for my liking 😩😉).
We need to see more of DIY DOG on your jobs...
Great video as usual Charlie. Tried my hand at soldering rather than comp fit for the first time earlier this year. Loads of tips in here i wish I’d known at the time, especially proper deburring plus your recommended tool stack as well. I paid a plumber to fit my outdoor taps earlier this year and don’t think he’s done half as professional a job as your installation. Looking forward to the log store vid as that’s on my backlog (pun fully intended) to do as well!
Thanks mate. Yes it was fun putting this together although I should have sleeved the pipe in hindsight, but the diameter of the hole combined with the foam should mean I don't have any problems with it. 👍
just use a round file for deburring and a sleeved bit holder works well with slotted screws
Good thinking 👌
I would have used a thermostatic mixer (same sort of thing you would see on your shower) on the inside, that means you can use a standard hose as the optimal temperature of 37c or your own choice will come out a single tap, then an additional cold tap if desired. I advise anyone else doing the same to go this route, as it will be a lot less trouble than trying to get the water to the optimal temperature each time and avoids scalding if anyone turns on taps elsewhere in the house. You won't find solderable check valves because they use a plastic part inside that would melt or burn in any soldering process.
How much were the pats list plz , great video as usual 🎉
Funny. I'm literally just about to install new hot and cold outdoor taps!
Great video as always! Check valves, isolator valves and drain of valves are compression fittings because of the moving parts (often in plastic) would be ruined with the heat. By the way your check valves have a drain so the drain of valves were maybe unnecessary 😉
Thanks Antoine. Yes I did think about those drain offs. A bit fidly though to use often.
A Charlie DIY / Plumber Parts team-up! It's an early Christmas present.
Some serious plumbing there, but very well done.
I did this but for the kids paddling pool so they can get a nice, warm paddle.
First of all job well done but...
... what were you thinking drilling a hole from the inside through the outer plaster layer ?
Whilst watching you doing that I thought OMG there goes his plasters.
Thats a bit of a noob mistake Charlie hehehehe.
Later you are giving the wall a new coat of that special paint and whilst doing that you said there would be a link on the video screen but there wasn't any
Can you give me a link for that stuff cause it looked great.
But in the end all is well and it looked great
BTW love your dog 🥰
I know. Complete noob 🤦 Here's the vid ruclips.net/video/zw_8YVFKY1M/видео.html I'll sort that link out - thanks for the heads up on that. It's awesome paint 👊
Glad I came across this mate cheers.
Cheers, now I know where to get free hot water! 😂 good video as usual
That's Joe 👊
Nice clean work
Another great and honest video Charlie!
Another great video Charlie! Plumbing is usually my least favourite DIY as something pops up I didn't expect. Your positive attitude always gets you a good result in the end!
Has the emperor paint continued to impress you? I'm considering it for my property over dulux weathershield...
Hi Barrie, thanks mate, I appreciate that. Yes I would 100% recommend the Emperor and the people who've bought it on my recommendation are also very happy with it. It's impregnable to rain whereas Weathershield is only resistant, and it's self cleaning, and breathable into the bargain. Do it, you won't be disappointed!!
Coincidentally I've been looking at this myself for last few days so great timing for me! Did you consider the Bullfinch External Shower? Looks pretty slick.
Excellent video
What's the crack with needing NRV's and drains on this sort of plumbing? Seems over the top, is it just the regs that require it?
Yes, but if I hadn't someone would have jumped on it 😉
@@CharlieDIYte got to do everything by the book or you risk getting told off in the comments!!
Why not fit taps with a check valve built in. Not sure about a drain valve. If you isolate the pipework in winter with the isolation valve just leave the external tap open?
I'm not sure it would drain as the check valve creates a vacuum.
Can i ask if wardrobe tiny tubular heaters are good for condensation problems or is it more efficient to simply keep the wardrobe doors open?
I think you'd be better to insulate the walls in the wardrobe and/or concentrate on getting that humidity down as installing heating wouldn't tackle the cause of the damp/ mould
@@CharlieDIYte Many thanks for your reply. Can i ask if you have any suggestions on types of insulation material available to insulate inside the wardrobe given the limited depth. My wardrobe is a fitted one from floor to ceiling with sliding doors. My first thought was perhaps to leave the doors ajar to encourage air flow.
love your kitchen sink, really nice ^^
Thanks. Yes it's been good although in hindsight one would have been fine and would have taken up less space.
You can use a themostatic mixer valve. they come with check valves. hot and cold in one pipe 30-40c out. can't burn the doggo either if the washing machine starts filling up. You can turn the hot off for just cold too. Nice patch repair, can hardly see it.
Hi which products did you buy as I’m struggling to find it online? Thank you!
Hold tight!!
Having already installed hot and cold feeds into my garage (with check valves!) this could be very interesting 🫣😬😂
great video Charlie I will copy this Thanks
Hi Charlie when installing the outside taps I always end up with then in the wrong place when finishing tightening any advice
Yes, you need to put more PTFE tape on. Layer it up, then you can simply turn it to where you want it to end up.👌
@@CharlieDIYte thanks Charlie I thought it might be something like that
Anyone know of an external thermostatic mixer for hot and cold outside taps? Our plumber installed the taps for us a couple of years ago (for kids paddling pool), but trying to get the right temperature is quite fiddly with a Y connector. I've seen some useful comments below about internal thermostatic mixers, which is a good thought, but we'd have to trek inside make any adjustments.
Good helpful video as usual, thank you Charlie!
I did think about this Nick as it is a bit fidly as you say. If I find out about one I'll let you know.
Did you find one Charlie? I’m looking for one.
Looks like a nice neat job! I like the idea of using compression elbows on the pipes that go through the wall to allow them to be disconnected if necessary, and I think those brass screws for the wall plate look really nice compared to stainless Pozidriv ones (avoiding potential galvanic corrosion too!)
I've heard that expanding foam is corrosive to copper, although I do find that hard to believe. Does anyone know whether this is true? I think it's a good idea to line the holes through the wall with a second, larger, pipe (copper or plastic) and to put a bead of silicone sealant behind the wall plates.
By the way, you can get end feed drain offs, just don't forget to remove the internals before soldering, so the rubber washers don't get melted!
Without knowing the exact model of dishwasher I cannot be absolutely positive but on many that I have seen over the years the fitting which takes the water through to the machine should be vertical! Might be worth checking as otherwise the safety factor of this device might not work. I would also sleeve the pipes through the walls as it is now a requirement for gas pipes and if they can be affected then so can water pipes.
Ha! I can beat you for once Charlie! I had an indoor dog shower installed when we moved here last year. Dogs not impressed. 😂
I'm impressed even if the dogs aren't 🤣 I guess you've got that in an equally push utility room? Sadly we don't have one - something we'd like to install if we ever get to build an extension.
Hi, I cannot find the link to the shower itself. Has it broken since you made this? :) Thank you for your video. Just found it and showed it to my plumber. All the best. Dode
I suspect the seller no longer supplies it. You can easily make up one yourself though with a spray gun and hoselock connectors from Amazon
You spoil that dog!
Great stuff!
Thanks 👊
You could have done a hot/cold outside tap like this with just just one tap if you had used a TMV under the sink, you just set the temperature of the water you require and away you go one tap
Done Soo Right 👍
Thanks Vince. A few naysayers have said I should have used a temperature modulating valve removing the need for a hot and cold feed but I like having the option of hot or cold water.
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 Chas nice video i'm off to shower before i'm in the dog house 😂😂😂
Toolstation do a solder drain off valve (plain shank) for £2, then you can just use a normal T with no reduced flow, a lot better and cheaper IMO
Sounds good. You don't need to worry too much about reduced flow on the mains water pipe though IMO.
Friendly doggo
My constant companion 😉
I rally enjoyed watching it, but seems very complicated! I know not. I want to do exactly the same. As I have a fox red puppy 6 month old labourer and yes he gets very muddy on his legs and belly!
Simplify it by installing a thermostatic valve, they include the check valves already and you only have to install one tap, you don't really need the drain offs if you have the isolators, just leave the tap in the open position when you isolate them to avoid any freezing causing them to burst.
Still use Yorkshire fittings and some compression. No reason to change!
I’ll stick to hosing the poor buggar with cold water 😂
I didn't see the point in fitting the doc because what do you think was going to happen when you turn the outside taps off and open them . More to fit in which you didn't need , Great vid though 👍
Thanks👍
First of all the pipes through the wall should be sleeved because if the copper came into contact with cement it will coorode.Secondly you should fit a tMV2 valve to set a maximum temperature because a dog can not tell you if it gets too hot
Thanks Gary. Yes should have mentioned sleeving. Shouldn't be a problem with mine though given the foam I piped in meaning the pipe's not touching the brick but I take your point. Yes should also have mentioned thermostatic mixers.
sorry mate, plumber here. just fit a decent TMV. i also wouldn't bother with the drain offs, you will have an egg cup full after those isos!
i would have put a mixer valve after the 2, then only one outisde tap.
Yep, just done this ruclips.net/video/OFiGUIYYZeI/видео.htmlsi=qRtQjrEc8X1Zeliq 😉👊
loved your video but lost me on the plumbing things ill pay someone to do it ahah
Great job. Can't believe how bad a job your previous 'professional ' plumber did. You did a much better job!
Thanks Michelle. 👍
good doggooooo aaaa
LSX in my opinion ISN'T a jointing compound. People use it in desperation on condense pipes, sealing grommets. Or leaks on the OUTSIDE of the joint not on the olive. So let's says there a leak on a screwed on iron, but you can't undo the iron so you LSX the outside the EXTERNAL which is why it's marketed as such. I'm sure you can use it otherwise, but I would never use it like that
Blimey. I'd never use it on the outside, and will probably just go back to traditional compound when I buy the next load.
Sorry, Charlie, I don't understand why you didn't install a thermostatic Mixing Valve with a prv for the cold under the sink and just have one single tap outdoors that was a constant warm temp for the dog. TMV's aren't that expensive after all.
So that he can use a cold tap on its own to water the garden or wash the car
FYI Charlie, press fit machines can be hired.
Ah, that's good to know. Thanks 👍
@@CharlieDIYte HSS definitely do them, they are around 70 to 100 pounds a day, obviously the longer you hire the less it is. So for example it's cheaper to hire for a weekend than it is for 1 day.
if the dogs happy to jump in cold water all year round , and mine does, it can get rinsed off with cold water at home.
It's a fair point Sean. 😉