Thrustmaster TS-XW and TS-PC Force Feedback Fix
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Saw a lot of talk online about incorrect force feedback and a grinding noise inside of these wheelbases, but no videos showing a solution. I figured out my issue and it may help some other Thrustmaster owners out there as well.
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Thanks a lot mate your solution resolved my issue the ts-pc goes off center during race thanks a lot again
@@FabioFerreira-zf4qw glad it helped! This video has 10,000 views so I am guessing this is a VERY common issue 😬
Fantastic! Thank you so much! This worked perfectly to fix my problem!🎉
I had the same symptoms and mine wasn't even touching. I did this and it fixed it
UPDATE FROM THRUSTMASTER: Their support department won’t sell me a new hall effect sensor board. Hope this video helps out anyone with the same issue before your board is destroyed 😬
Maybe telling them you found this problem by itself means you voided their warranty? I remember i messed up a led strip of a PC case and i contacted Bitfenix (chinease brand i think) and they sent me the replacement parts for very little money. I obviously dont have any support on my country, neither from thrustmaster, maybe they are expecting you to send it for repairs the regular lenghty way?
@@freedomdst Thrustmaster just won't sell you parts. I am in the US, not france, so I did not want to send my unit in for repair. All I wanted was the parts as I know what the issue is. They refused stating they do not sell those parts and the only way to obtain them was to pay $200 for service and also have to pay shipping on top of that. I also needed a USB board for my T300 (which is why i bought a TS-XW instead)
No thanks. I have never encountered a hobbyist company that supports their own products so poorly.
I recently bought a tx for parts off ebay for $60 because on mine the sensor holder fell apart so check for ebay deals it might be cheaper then sending it in for any repair but only 2 hrs of play time that's bs they won't fix it or swap it out for a new unit
I just performed this surgery on my TS-XW last night. Same exact issue, but also, how cheap is that little soft rubber fan? In addition to the Hall Effect sensor being ground into, mine had a red wire pinched between the motor and the backplate, changing the angle of the motor. So... build quality is not their priority. I did the exact same fix you did in this video, and it has worked so far. I didn't get deep into it last night and today is Christmas eve, so probably not playing today. One thing I did notice though was that my center point on the wheel has shifted to the right. In a few days I'll try hooking up to the laptop and seeing if I can recalibrate it.
Glad the fix worked out for you! I had the same exact issue with it being off center after the fix. You have to re-center it with a button combo; you can’t do it in the thrustmaster control panel. I have the R383 wheel. To recenter it I had to move the wheel to center and press the right paddle shifter, button 5, and mode together. It will flash green once and it is recentered. It may be a different combo on whatever wheel you have. Hope that helps!
@@nightzelmods if I can just figure out what button 5 is...
@@jamesmoore7858 top right button on the r383. I looked up button mappings online. Otherwise you can open the control panel on your pc and press buttons until you see #5 light up.
@nightzelmods8668 I actually found this last night. On the SF1000 it's the buttons that are default mapped to the menu and view buttons, along with the mode button. Thanks again.
I have the same problem of ratheling and my wheel calibration get decentered by 45°.
Today im going to try the fix and give you the response.
Game - Dirt Rally 2.0
Let me know how it goes! After you space your hall sensor board, you will still have to re-center your wheel. One of my comments on this video says how to do that with a button combination; or you can google it :P
@@nightzelmods soo yesterday I don't get the answer because when the wheel get fixed I can't stop playing 😂😂
I do the exact same thing as you do at the video and don't have any problems at all.
I think that you get delivery from far away or with shitty delivery You will find the same issue because of the sensor cap and then base fan fitment.The fan was pushing the cap to the sensor to the barring and cause the issue no matter that the fan is rubber the fit was soo tithe that I THINK flex the whole chip to left and for that i have problem when
turn left.
That's all from me have a nice day!
@@ivanklechorov182 glad the fix worked for you! Have fun!
Nice fix @Nightzel Mods! I think I have a bit of a different problem but maybe you have a solution here for.
I have again and again in races or in training, the case that the wheelbase in the race suddenly about 15 ° from the center is either right or left. I have to turn off the game and disconnect the wheelbase from the power. After a restart of the wheelbase everything works again. thanks for your help
That could be the the same issue. I would disconnect it and check. My wheel did something similar
If your hall effect sensor board isn’t too close or damaged, then There is a way to recenter the wheel without unplugging it. Check the other comments on this video. There is a button combination to recenter the wheel while it is on.
Same
@@Nico.cb125 i still have warrenty on mine so i send it back.. and ordert the r9😅
@@sch0ut I think the best advertising Moza has is all the people who are fed up with thrustmaster 😆
I am getting the R9 bundle as soon as they are back in stock
@@nightzelmods I pretty much have the same problem. I play iRacing, but when I turn the wheel slightly at all, it automatically changes the center value. I’ll have to hold the wheel at 3:00 to go straight. When going to the control panel, with the wheel centered, it says its at maybe 40% axis. So I hold the three buttons to recenter it, and as soon I turn the wheel again, it goes off center. This also happens at the slightest contact with other cars/wall in game. Not to tech savvy so I’m not sure if the hall sensor is my issue, or the belt? I am having the same clunky force feedback issue as talked about in the video. Any help would be massively appreciated as thrustmaster wont do anything about it
i checked my TS-PC, no problem, not only the hall sensor pcb had some cube metal shielding on the back, the pcb said "2018" on it, so i guess i got one of the later revisions when they fix small issues like this, then they never tell anyone about it because that would be to admit there is a problem and that they have to fix it for everyone who bought the ones before it. I also put a bit of grease on the belt since some weeks ago i noticed that little crackling sound, also gone, although it didnt even bother me that much.
I'm pretty sure putting grease on a belt is like putting WD-40 on your brakes.
@@Slix_ that being good or bad? it was silicon grease, so nothing corrosive or such.
@@Slix_ With silicone spray it is more than enough, apply inside and outside, let it dry and that's it.
The silicone spray is to better preserve the straps and better prolong their life of use by minimizing wear. Apart from use, they usually wear out due to dirt and dryness of the strap with use.
Super Video, presne to iste som mal pokazene. Dakujem.
Glad I could help!
Just today after owning my TS PC Racer for 6 years, i lost force feedback during iRacing. I had great detail until it went down south. The wheel wouldnt calibrate like it should either. Not sure if this would fix my issue but im not happy to see ive ran into issues.
It could be anything. Lots of things make that motor turn. Check for obvious things like blown capacitors and continuity test your motor wires
I just got a brand new TS-PC on a huge sale for 200. Now I'm wondering how long have you had yours and if I should be worried
Mine did this 2 hours out of the box. You can disassemble your wheelbase and inspect the board carefully and it won’t void your warranty; just don’t tell thrustmaster you opened it! If you pause the video you can see the red paint they use for warranty purposes and none of that red paint is on any of the fasteners you need to remove to inspect the hall effect sensor board.
Don't do that. They did a revision somewhere around 2018 where they fixed it.
I have a completely different problem, and can't find anything on it at all
So basically when the fan kicks in, which any one with one of these wheels bases will know is constantly, I can hear a horrible noise coming from the fan, it's like if you have a room fan on to cool yourself down, imagine sticking a piece of plastic init and just letting the fan blades hit it.
Have you taken it apart? The fans are easily replaced.
@@nightzelmods it's still under warranty is it worth it?
@@lukeduffy130 depends on how long you want to wait. I believe they make you pay return shipping as well. I want to ditch Thrustmaster entirely but finding a moza R9 right now is near impossible.
@@nightzelmods I love the wheel tbh, I've looked it up more anybots a common non fault apparently
@@lukeduffy130I have the same problem have you found a solution
Can this be a reason for weird smell of electrical plastic burning when i turn on my wheel?
No clue. I would open up the wheelbase and try to diagnoase from there but do so at your own risk. Electrical “smells” are usually from heat from bad components.
Would you know why my TS-PC everything works except my FFB is not working.
does it auto calibrate? Have you re-installed the firmware?
Great video! Very helpful
Thanks!
My tx leather edition was solid for 6 years my new ts-xw is a POS I'm going fanatec
Which wheelbase are you going with?
@@nightzelmods well fanatec is sold out so probably a moza r9
i have a t248 ¿you know i can fix it?
hi my ffb stopped working totally.. do you have any opinion on how to fix it ? thanks for answering, i can send videos to your ig if you have one...
If reinstalling your firmware doesn’t fix it, then make sure there is nothing obvious going on inside. Look for a broken connection at the motor or a burned up component. If it’s nothing obvious, then that could be an issue with your motor or an issue with the driver board, and neither of those is going to be an easy diagnosis or fix. Sell it for parts and upgrade.
Muchas gracias !!!! Solucionado !!!!! El volante funciona perfecto 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
De nada! Me alegro de que te haya funcionado la reparación!
always disapointed with thrustmaster, every single piece of their hardware have a problem somewhere...
joysticks, wheel bases, steering wheels, pedals... everything has to be fixed a few month after you buy it...
I have no more thrust in thrustmaster
I understand that things break after long periods of use, but my ts-xw did this 2 hours out of the box, and it sounds like a lot of other people have this exact issue. What disappointed me the most about them is that their support department was useless. They wouldn’t sell me any of the parts I asked for and wouldn’t acknowledge that this was a common issue. I’ve never interacted with a hobbyist company that straight up won’t sell you parts for their product. Makes no sense at all.
@@nightzelmods no more thrust in thrustmaster
How old is your system?
A few hours
Is there anyway I could get in touch on discord I’ve got a faulty ts xw
Im active on here
@@nightzelmods have you had any experience with the ts xw ffb dying?
The start up procedure has also changed, it used to spin all the way left then right.. then it would kind of swing central and the ffb would activate.. now it dosent do the final centralising move.
Thanks for getting back to me btw, I’m sure all the drivers and such are correct and up to date.. also when I try the ffb test on I get no response either
@@erpaderpa4469 have you opened it up to make sure you don’t have the same issue that I have in the video?
My force feedback stopped calibrating correctly which is why I opened it up.
@@nightzelmods doing it as we speak because like you say in the video there is no gap.. also on my computer it’s telling me the wheel hasent ‘migrated’ properly? Any clue??
@@erpaderpa4469 i might know the issue, as i just upgraded PC’s and the wheel was being recognized as a generic wheel.
after you check your hall effect sensor board, and get it all re-assembled, I would uninstall all the Thrustmaster drivers and leave your wheel unplugged. Reinstall the drivers and pay attention to the prompts on the screen. At the very end of the installation right before it asks to restart your computer, it says to plug in all thrustmaster products you want to use. Then it will go through the calibration and then, if I remember correctly, you click ok to restart your pc through the installer.