I really appreciate the comparison, but I have a tspc with the t3pm pedals, and honestly it never makes this much creaking plasticy sounds. Also I think one reason for me getting the thrustmaster is the fact that it's actually sold in retail stores that people can buy, and even u would order it it online it would arrive quick, sadly fanatec bases are like unicorns, you can never get them in stock, and u end waiting for a predorder that keeps on getting delayed. So frustratingly u opt out. But honestly I'm very happy with the tspc base. And I just got the ferrari sf1000 replica rim which is one of the best f1 rims regardless of price even tho it's bargain
@@aubreycolemanracing I was going to add any creaking I had was gone by tightening the centre circle of fastenings and locking down the wheel connecting screw. And mines second hand so god knows how worn in it is.
Nice, I'm waiting for mine to ship, expecting early Jan hopfully. Stepping up from G29, so excited to feel the difference. Feels like fanatec hit the sweet spot with this one!
I think I am going to go this route myself. I can't decide between the TGT 2 or the CSL DD Pro but I think I'm leaning paying the extra (and shipping) to go with the Fanatec.
I got the TS-PC like nearly one year ago went from the G29 to it. Was a really big upgrade. Can't wait to upgrade to direct drive after a few years since just got the TS-PC so going to use it until I have a bit more money to upgrade to a direct drive one in the future.
@@kylerobinson6102 yeah true plan to. I upgraded to the TS-PC from the G29 because of the reliability issues with the g29. I wanted to get gear that would last me long. Will upgrade to direct drive if anything breaks though and I can't claim the warranty in the future.
I’m planning on upgrading from the g923 to the tspc and have been searching for answers would you say it’s a big upgrade ? The only thing putting me off fanatec is the availability and cost,
Congrats on the new wheelbase, I currently own the Ferrari edition tspc racer same as you. I bought it 3 months before the announcement of the CSL DD, darn. I bought the Open wheel rim the steering feels a little bit tighter but one day I will move up to the DD's
It's better but needs the 8nm boost kit to compete with the power feel. The smoothness almost makes it feel less powerful but the boost kit really adds to it. Tbh the cswv2.5 made it hard for me to switch to dd. I did not loke the 5nm pro more then the cswv2.5 not even close. 8nm got me feeling a bit better. But the 15nm dd wheel made em realize why dd was so good. People can say all day you don't need the power but I get why they have it now.
Bought TS-PC and T3P-M pedals to use at a desk, and soon realised it wasn't going to cut it so upgraded to TR8 rig, then Heusinkveld pedals, shifter, etc and now looking at DD wheelbase options to upgrade asap. We buy these things for realism and immersion, there should be more direct comparison videos on RUclips without loud music or game sounds, so you can tell just how bad the click/clunk paddles are or how loud the active cooling is. I was literally seconds faster with quality loadcell pedals rather than guessing with TM's HALL effect sensor offerings. Lessons learned: buy the best can afford first time and don't waste your money on plastic toys
Just one "addition" for all the TS-PC users who got the base together with the ferrari challenge wheel: If you want a formula-style wheel - get the wheel mod for the 488 challenge from Acelith.
Planning on picking up a TS-PC for myself soon. I considered Fanatec, but the soonest I can get the CSL DD is March 2022. And It'll cost me import fees. In total, It'll cost me roughly 1200 Euro, with a 3rd pedal, but not including a shifter. I can get away with getting a TS-PC with a shifter, T-LCM pedals and 2 Rims for 1000. I feel like the TS-PC is just a better value right now.
Congratulations, received my CSL DD last week. I went from a Thrustmaster tmx which was only 2.5nm. You're right about Ams2, the FF is fantastic now after the update with the new physics. Acc also feels better. I thought the same with AC with the steering feeling a bit light at low speed but weighting up at higher. Perhaps this is normal with cars with aero and downforce. I'm going to try and change some settings to get some more low speed feel. Also Raceroom feels really good as well. Keep up the good work really enjoy your videos.👍
@@tomasmenezes3683 I've got the 5nm,,couldn't afford the 8nm because I ordered the csl pedals with the load cell, it's still a massive upgrade from my old wheel. Will probably get the 8nm in time.
@@adetaylor5997 Nice! I was gonna buy the 5nm and after a while get the 8nm so I would get that wow reaction 2 times lol one from upgrading from a t300 to the 5nm and the other from the 5 to the 8nm, they say it makes a big difference, I only have the option to buy the 8nm version as the 5nm is only available again in June... nice marketing strategy from fanatic.... lol anyways, enjoy it!
So I fixed my ts-xw which had this problem. It is an issue with the hall sensor at the back of the motor being too close, causing power levels to spike giving this HORRIBLE feeling. Mine feels like brand new so if you wanted to sell it it’s Possible. Lmk if you’re interested I can tell you how.
I upgraded from the Fanatec Clubsport Wheelbase v3 to the CLS DD with the 8nm power supply. I use the CSL DD with a ClubSport wheel base table clamp, which itself is a heavy beast. The fidelity is a perfect solution with setup! I may buy a 80/20 extrusion rig at some point. But, this thing works great on my table based rig. So, can you use the CSL DD on a table... Heck Yeah!
Purchased a tgt2 for cheap till I can get my hands on a dd Pro for my ps5. Previously had a g29 and loved it but can see myself getting a dd Pro soon as they become. More available in march
I keep buying Thrustmaster because it easily available plus i can return it straight away to the shop if it has a problem. They just give you a new one. The only reason i'm not liking Fanatec is because i heard from friends when you have a problem its a journey to get it replaced or fixed. Sorry i'm cautious of where my money goes and not over hyped. TS PC also kinda feels more like real car when driving from what i have felt between the two. One day i will get the DD. Secondly the creaking wow my TSPC does not make that noise :)) What version did you buy or from whom?
You basically started saying your TSPC feels better than a CSL DD, and then at the end you said you'll get a DD one day anyway!😂 I'm very happy with the DD, glad I purchased it, way more detail and precise feeling compared to the TSPC. Much more precision in setting up just how I like it. As for the creaking with the TSPC, I fixed it as I mentioned in the video even, just by tightening the screws. The DD for me has perfect 8nm torque, and looking forward to a new wheel for it soon.
@@CameronF1TV to give you an example. I'm 30 used to kart, always played vid race games, always good rank. Been doing sim racing for 5months I have beaten many gods except on iRacing w my ts pc and formula wheel..if you take the time it's incredible and powerful, feels like I'm actually racing. Its 9nm+ of torque. You can barely drive it at 100% and it goes crazier than that.
@@CameronF1TV also I had all the DD n all that ready to buy in cart online but we know there are aliens etc that can beat gods w a g27 so after all unbiased review and research I saw that for PC, the ts PC is by far best value..mate it w pro pedals you are good to go.
I was unsure whether to go for thrustmaster which does sound like a good wheel but I have a little ocd and creaking doesn't sound like it would work for me lol
I think this video sealed the deal for me, a CSL DD 8Nm with the Fanatec WRC rim and V3 pedals, an Aiologs sequential shifter and a heusinkveld handbrake. Now I just need to decide what rig to build it all on, any suggestions? Great video, very helpful to hear from someone that owned both and can compare fairly.
@@ObitoUchihaisgay Really? I haven't really come across anything about that wheel being bad. It looks like a pretty standard wheel which what I want for Rally, I wonder if it's the shifters that are bad then because I doubt the rim itself is bad?
@@messiahshow I own the WRC wheel and I would not say it is bad in anyway. The shifters are also good, no problems. I guess most people say it's bad because it looks very similar to the older elite p1 which was not the best. But it has been completely new designed and it works really fine. Go for it. 30 cm diameter is a good allrounder combined with the fully round design.
crazy you got your base and I ordered in November got the clubsport v3 pedals and the WRC rim and the 8nm CSL DD and it said pre order for january 3rd and now it says january 27th on my account I emailed them and they said its because of boats in california lame excuse to me when someone spends over a 1000 dollars on stuff and this happens amazing you got yours so fast great video
Hi To have 8nm with your CLS DD you have to put everything 100% to achieve it, and again not to have the 8nm and in addition you saturate all the information received (in the game) from your CLS DD, (It's as if you put your volume for the music to the maximum it's going to be distorted. Compared to the DD1 that I have there is a lot more info which is received even at 40%.
Agreed. I have the CSL DD 8nm (100% gain in Fanalab), but at 60% in-game as I love a lighter wheel. Nonetheless, the nuances transmitted by a direct drive wheel need to be experienced to appreciate.
My Thrustmaster TX base just died and I'm now consider whether to get a new Thrustmaster TS-XW base or wait for the Fanetec CSL -DD to become available (another 2 month). From your comments it sounds like I should wait for the CSL
I would definitely go direct drive, but there are other options like Simagic Alpha Mini, it more $$$ though. I still love my dd, but if you get the McLaren rim, you should get the Clubsport QR1 metal quick release too.
I got my CSL DD 8nm a couple of days ago and almost immediately notice a clunking feeling. This is my first DD or Fanatec product, but I'm wondering if the clunking is normal? My gut tells me no since everybody on RUclips is saying how smooth the wheel base is. I'm wondering if I should return it since I"m still in my 14 day return period.
Are you using qr lite? If so, that's probably why, I switched to the qr1, the metal quick release, and fixed it. It would click when there was a change in direction.
Why does your TS-PC rim sound like you have a Tesla coil sparking nearby? I have a T300 with the Ferrari 599XX alcantara rim & even though it's been used a lot, it's still difficult to get any sound out of it
I have a CSL Elite Wheelbase V2.5 with F1 rim I don’t see the point in upgrading, my next upgrade will be a DD1 or a DD2 the csl DD is kinda flimsy the input shaft wobble’s, and the bump stops aren’t great few other things it runs kinda hot from what I understand too
Definitely doesn't run hot, and direct drive wheels don't have stops. But don't know what the elite feels like, so can't comment on if it's worth getting a dd. Your probably right, dd1 or 2 maybe better for you for your next upgrade.👍I went from g29, to tspc, and now a dd. At this stage in not willing to spent thousands if dollars on a dd1 or 2. I know a few people that sold their dd1 to get the dd, as they never used it over 10nm. Everyone is different though, depends on how much you want out of a base.
so I hated my trustmaster, too realistic or to much force ( found it much harder than remote).... I want to get better lap times then remote, will I like the fanatec? or should I buy a Logitech?
The CSL DD has much more precise details, as its direct drive. And has more force with boost kit. You need boost kit to get much better details, you can always dial down the ffb if it's too strong for you.👍
I started out about 10 yrs ago. Bought all Thrustmaster gear. As I got better I switched to Fannatec. Fannatec is my choice simply because I broke everything Thrustmaster had.
Ngl, just look how rough the thrustmaster is on start up.. that and so many stupid design aspects left me waiting for it to inevitably break.. which it did
@@aubreycolemanracing Translation ----> I have the TSPC and it doesn't make those crackles, it's exaggerating what you hear. He is not silent but he crunches you too much. Best regards
Thanks for the review. I have been weighing up the TS PC for a long while now but could never get stock in the UK for a decent price. Then the CSL DD came out but I don't wanna get dragged into their expensive ecosystem with the wheels etc. In terms of % how much of an improvement would you say the DD is over the TM wheel? Also worth consideration is the simagic mini, It's not too much more than the CSL but with 10NM torque and compatible with different wheels etc so I think that might be my next step if I don't go for one of the other 2 options.
Yes the Simagic may be a good one to get, I got the dd with boost kit because 8nm for me is more than enough. The dd is probably about 50% better than the tspc. I should have waited and got the dd before the tspc, as direct drive is that much better, smoother, more detail than belt drive. Il probably only get one more wheel, like the BMW rim, so I can have a wheel for all uses. The Simagic might be better than dd, the more force, the more detail you will get. I am just very happy with the dd 8nm, still gives my arms a workout!
@@aubreycolemanracing thanks that nails it for me then. TS PC if on sale (can be had for around £400) if not I'll go simagic/csl DD with boost kit which bith come in around £7-800 with a wheel
@@benjimc1 deff go csl dd man its so worth it. And u have console support. sim magic no console support at all, and not all racing games are supported on pc. fanatec everygame is supported.
Back in 2016 I had a T500 with the Ferrari 5999xxxx whatever the hell it’s called and it popped and cracked like crazy. Right out the box. Thrustmaster told me they didn’t see anything wrong with that when I sent them a video. Few years later I had the V1 Mclaren with a DD2 and it’s popping and cracking got so bad I could feel it through gloves. I didn’t contact the manufacturer this time. I just got a SimUCube 2 Pro and Cube Controls wheel instead.
Can somebody explain to me. What are the differences if you have the QR1 or the QR lite on your Fanatec wheel? Do you have less torque with the QR lite etc?
The plastic QR has a pole that enters the wheel activating a switch for low-torque mode on CSL rims. If your wheel is out of warranty or you don’t mind doing so, you can disassemble the QR from the wheel and just cut off that pole so you can use the CSL rim (eg the McLaren) on Podium wheels in high-torque mode. If you’re on CSL DD, no need to do so.
Nice video. For someone that has never used a wheel would you say 5NM is a good start or just get 8NM I am guessing that the feed back of the wheel can be turned down? I been playing by keyboard American Truck Simulator I want get a wheel the fanatec DD looks good vs Thrustmaster looks to toy like.
The csl dd will be perfect for most, I know people that sold their dd1-2 to get the dd, because you get all the detail you need at 8nm. But some like the extra force though. Definitely worth getting 8nm straight away.
5NM is good but if you do get the 8NM you will never go back. If you are a kid the 5NM will be perfect though. You can always get the 8NM either officially or build one if you want, later.
I have a 5Nm CSL DD, and you absolutely do not need more than that for ATS. Rich, detailed FFB has never been that game's strong suit, so you really will not be missing out on anything.
You really don't need a DD wheel for AMS. The game doesn't really have much force feedback (ofc trucks irl don't either). If you are ok with just paying for the looks that's fine, but you could just as well get a wheel for 300€
What’s your thoughts I’m trying to get into sim racing should I go with fanatic or trustmaster ? like since you upgraded it to a fanatic did you feel a huge differences ?
Big difference! But thrustmaster still great wheel, way better than the G29. That being said, take a look at the Simagic 10nm wheel. The Fanatec wheels have a great wheel eco system though, I love my csl dd!
Hi Aubrey Love your Vids What settings where u using on your TSPC TM control panel and ingame in AMS2... I am using everything at 100% in TM Panel and Default + ingame 38 Gain... 20 low force....20 Dampening No idea whether this is what i should be doing.....Drives ok but is it right Cheers Dude ...keep it up Craig NZ 50 FX
Nice presentation, one question: 'detail'...what does that mean specifically to you? I have a TX & can feel pretty much every bump & tyre compression, etc. Is it more the smoothness of DD not masking the feedback? maybe the belts add a layer of heat dissipation & distort the signal? I'm thinking of upgrading but not 100% sure what I'll be getting for the considerable outlay, even though of course kudos to Fanatec for bringing what is generally agreed to be the highest fidelity to a reasonable level of affordability. One little thought that a friend of mine, who's an automotive engineer but never plays video games, gave me: a front wheel drive car has a more direct drive than a rear wheel drive car but that doesn't translate to more detail for the driver. Good content & a very valid comparison :)
Thanks for your comment, the main reason I got the dd was smoothness, therefore not loosing detail through the belt drive, the use of fanatec wheels, no noise I can record wheel now without annoying wheel noise. And yes you do feel really great front wheel drive detail in the dd. The tspc is still good, but the the dd has that much better force also, which translates into better detail.👍
I upgraded from the TX to the dd1 podium and the difference is huge. Not just ffb power but every detail, I love my TX still but it's just a different league. The first decent upgrade was my pedals though, from fanatec clubsport to meca cup 1's And that is where the biggest lap time improvements and consistency come from. It's all expensive but well worth it if it's something you're into 😊
i just got the ts xw for 500 bucks with with the T 3pm and this is my upgrade from a g29 i could not find the csl dd anywhere in stock with out paying $150 in shiping im kinda sad but i just couldent pay anymore but i hope its better then my g29 thats all i had it for 3 years the g29 has done me good.. nice video man thanks
I'm thinking of getting into sim racing and from all the reviews, a CSL DD would be a great starting point! Have you tested a Next Level Racing GTTrack? That looks like it would be the default choice for a basic, yet sturdy cockpit
The only cockpit I've used is the one I have, and I really need an upgrade! The DD is a fantastic wheel, make sure to get a metal quick release adapter for you wheel though, especially if your going to use 8nm power supply. I would also recommend the 8nm.👍
Nice video! What rig does you have it attached to? I also have the CSL DD with 8NM and its too much for my Playseat Challenge 🤪 Bought myself a Simlab p1x yesterday, and when it arrives the flex probably leaves 😎
@@zuber2325 main wheel mount on the rig, with the up-rights flex, the bolts are tight, don't notice it really, but I will for sure upgrade the rig soon, it's not great.
Your telling me the ts xw dosent destroy itself with that start up procedure? My ts xw just broke and thrustmaster wanted half of rrp to repair a unit that came out in 2017 what a joke
Hello! if I understand you correctly, ts pc also has very good ffb detail, so this is not a critical difference with csl dd? or you didn’t even feel anything like that from driving a car on a ts pc? I just broke my whole head already, I can’t decide what to switch to from t300, I think I can still save as much as $ 500 and take tc ps. Is it so much worse in terms of car sensations than csl dd?
Definitely wouldn't advise getting a ts-ps from what you already have, but the dd would be a nice upgrade, after good amount of time with the dd now, I can say the detail is far better and smoother details, you only feel the car with the dd as it's direct drive, as with the ts-pc, you feel the motor.
@@aubreycolemanracing Thank you for the answer! yes, I want to take csl dd pro, and it already comes with a boost kit 8Hm. Why do you say that I need a metal lock? I read that this new plastic is very durable and reliable
@@user-fx7on4qn8t my plastic qr started clicking, lots of people had the same problem, it's definitely not back, but noticeable. The metal qr is much more secure.
this is first time I heard of the creaking noise could have been damaged wheel rim or even faulty base unity as I had t300rs and now the TS-PC and it's very silent don't make any noise for me. currently use TS-pc with T-LCM pedals and they work great, I've owned G27 and G29 and those felt like toys they are not worth any asking price if you're even slightly serious about sim racing. even old Thrustmaster Ferrari F430 FFB is using belt driven ffb which I don't understand why logitch is so stubborn on sticking with gear driven ffb.
The creaking is only in this Ferrari wheel, and I fixed it by tightening all the bolts on it. It's not a problem in the base at all. I'm pretty sure logitech are working on a direct drive wheel base.
@@aubreycolemanracing yup, i bought it new like a year ago and it had the noise from day 1 not in a high degree but noticeable, the plastic of the button box is very weak so it could ended up beign destroyed by so much tightening
I have a ts-xw on my pc and it's almost silent.. The only thing you can hear is the cheap plastic from the adapter but than that it's practically silent.
@@aubreycolemanracing Ah ok, nah they have that smaller type networkcable-style connector sadly :/ May be some kind of converter to usb out there tho, i have to research :D Is the TS-PC The same as TS-XW?
You feel the road, track surface, every bump on laser scanned tracks, you feel when the car over and understeers more, just feels more like your connected to the car. You feel correct weight in the steering, like a real car.
Not really, just make sure you don't use any of the the extra stuff on content manager. The stuff of the right side of the force feedback settings page.
As long as your Thrustmaster pedals can be plugged direct into your pc, and your pc recognises the pedals on there own. Should be okay. Best check that though.
@@aubreycolemanracing my bad brp i try to find it but is not in the app in my cumputer.. please let me know how you doit my sterring wheel is blocking my gear indicator in my screen.
Ams 2 has very exaggerated unrealistic ffb. I love ams 2 but the ffb is a weak spot. As for acc, u need to run the base at 100% ffb on the csl dd and adjust per car in game . Acc is very reliant on having a lot of dynamic range available. I run my dd1 in acc at 75% ffb and adjust per car.
Just bought the ts pc Racer cause cant geht a fanatec Right know or Its like 370€ More than the ts pc and the dd From thrustmaster is like Never coming out an Probyaly Costello more Money so im Fine i guess
I tried to replicate what happened in the video... No luck. I can't even get the wheel to do the fan like spin. It just calibrates as normal. I apologize to anyone who read before this edit. I was mistaken.
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I really appreciate the comparison, but I have a tspc with the t3pm pedals, and honestly it never makes this much creaking plasticy sounds. Also I think one reason for me getting the thrustmaster is the fact that it's actually sold in retail stores that people can buy, and even u would order it it online it would arrive quick, sadly fanatec bases are like unicorns, you can never get them in stock, and u end waiting for a predorder that keeps on getting delayed. So frustratingly u opt out. But honestly I'm very happy with the tspc base. And I just got the ferrari sf1000 replica rim which is one of the best f1 rims regardless of price even tho it's bargain
Honestly, the tspc is still an amazing wheel, I managed to get 90% of the creaking to go by tightening the allen keys!👍
@@aubreycolemanracing Same here.
@@aubreycolemanracing I was going to add any creaking I had was gone by tightening the centre circle of fastenings and locking down the wheel connecting screw. And mines second hand so god knows how worn in it is.
@@aubreycolemanracing I just wanted to say if you just tighten everything up there will be barely any creaking.
@@wegpiraatjochem I already did that, and I mentioned it in the vid. I tightened all bolts, and the creaking stopped. Thanks anyway.
Nice, I'm waiting for mine to ship, expecting early Jan hopfully. Stepping up from G29, so excited to feel the difference.
Feels like fanatec hit the sweet spot with this one!
Defiantly a fine piece of kit the DD, you'll be amazed stepping up from the G29!
I think I am going to go this route myself. I can't decide between the TGT 2 or the CSL DD Pro but I think I'm leaning paying the extra (and shipping) to go with the Fanatec.
@@kylerobinson6102 you'll end up with a direct drive eventually anyway!🤣
@@aubreycolemanracing the thought process is if I’m already willing to part with $1k CAD we may as wel make it $2k and get a rig, Fanatec pro etc.
what is your feedback
I got the TS-PC like nearly one year ago went from the G29 to it. Was a really big upgrade. Can't wait to upgrade to direct drive after a few years since just got the TS-PC so going to use it until I have a bit more money to upgrade to a direct drive one in the future.
Yeah it gets a little bit expensive when you have to buy wheels as well, but well worth it!
My personal opinion would to be use the TS PC for 3 to 4 years. Those things aren't cheap. Just my suggestion friend.
@@kylerobinson6102 yeah true plan to. I upgraded to the TS-PC from the G29 because of the reliability issues with the g29. I wanted to get gear that would last me long. Will upgrade to direct drive if anything breaks though and I can't claim the warranty in the future.
I’m planning on upgrading from the g923 to the tspc and have been searching for answers would you say it’s a big upgrade ? The only thing putting me off fanatec is the availability and cost,
@@j0hn2012 it is a big upgrade. But maybe wait for the csl dd
Nice mate! Interesting hearing a comparison to the TS-PC! :D
Congrats on the new wheelbase, I currently own the Ferrari edition tspc racer same as you. I bought it 3 months before the announcement of the CSL DD, darn. I bought the Open wheel rim the steering feels a little bit tighter but one day I will move up to the DD's
The TS-PC is still a great wheel! But you'll love the dd!
It's better but needs the 8nm boost kit to compete with the power feel. The smoothness almost makes it feel less powerful but the boost kit really adds to it.
Tbh the cswv2.5 made it hard for me to switch to dd. I did not loke the 5nm pro more then the cswv2.5 not even close. 8nm got me feeling a bit better. But the 15nm dd wheel made em realize why dd was so good. People can say all day you don't need the power but I get why they have it now.
Bought TS-PC and T3P-M pedals to use at a desk, and soon realised it wasn't going to cut it so upgraded to TR8 rig, then Heusinkveld pedals, shifter, etc and now looking at DD wheelbase options to upgrade asap.
We buy these things for realism and immersion, there should be more direct comparison videos on RUclips without loud music or game sounds, so you can tell just how bad the click/clunk paddles are or how loud the active cooling is. I was literally seconds faster with quality loadcell pedals rather than guessing with TM's HALL effect sensor offerings. Lessons learned: buy the best can afford first time and don't waste your money on plastic toys
Exactly!
Just one "addition" for all the TS-PC users who got the base together with the ferrari challenge wheel:
If you want a formula-style wheel - get the wheel mod for the 488 challenge from Acelith.
Planning on picking up a TS-PC for myself soon.
I considered Fanatec, but the soonest I can get the CSL DD is March 2022.
And It'll cost me import fees.
In total, It'll cost me roughly 1200 Euro, with a 3rd pedal, but not including a shifter.
I can get away with getting a TS-PC with a shifter, T-LCM pedals and 2 Rims for 1000.
I feel like the TS-PC is just a better value right now.
If your upgrading from something like a logitech, it's a massive upgrade to ts-pc. You'll still get the details you need.👍
@@aubreycolemanracing Yep, upgrading from a Logitech G29.
It's served me well for the years I've used it, but felt it was time to upgrade. :)
@@nova8747 for 200€ I'd try the fanatec. Haven't used it myself tho so don't take my word for it. Planning to upgrade from the t300rs to the cls dd
@@ObitoUchihaisgay in my country the difference of money are above 500€, so the TS PC îs a better value. I ordered TS PC today.
Congratulations, received my CSL DD last week. I went from a Thrustmaster tmx which was only 2.5nm. You're right about Ams2, the FF is fantastic now after the update with the new physics. Acc also feels better. I thought the same with AC with the steering feeling a bit light at low speed but weighting up at higher. Perhaps this is normal with cars with aero and downforce. I'm going to try and change some settings to get some more low speed feel. Also Raceroom feels really good as well. Keep up the good work really enjoy your videos.👍
Im just curious when did you order yours? I ordered mine the beginning of october and it says january is my date
@@bajafilth143 I ordered mine on 15th October.
Do you have the 5 or 8nm version?
@@tomasmenezes3683 I've got the 5nm,,couldn't afford the 8nm because I ordered the csl pedals with the load cell, it's still a massive upgrade from my old wheel. Will probably get the 8nm in time.
@@adetaylor5997 Nice! I was gonna buy the 5nm and after a while get the 8nm so I would get that wow reaction 2 times lol one from upgrading from a t300 to the 5nm and the other from the 5 to the 8nm, they say it makes a big difference, I only have the option to buy the 8nm version as the 5nm is only available again in June... nice marketing strategy from fanatic.... lol anyways, enjoy it!
Finally the direct comparison i was waiting for!! thanks for the vid man
So I fixed my ts-xw which had this problem. It is an issue with the hall sensor at the back of the motor being too close, causing power levels to spike giving this HORRIBLE feeling. Mine feels like brand new so if you wanted to sell it it’s
Possible. Lmk if you’re interested I can tell you how.
i got the ts - xw and no noise here and after the latest update of thrustmaster t boost i got much more accurate ffb its amazing !
Yeah it's still a great wheel!
Hey bro, u think still worthy in 2023, I’m think buy one combo, tclm, open wheel, 2 Ferrari wheels and ts pc base for 610 usd, what u think?
Your arms are so hairy! I’m Asian and smoother than a dolphin. Great video mate, thanks!
🤣🤣 funniest comment I've had!
I upgraded from the Fanatec Clubsport Wheelbase v3 to the CLS DD with the 8nm power supply. I use the CSL DD with a ClubSport wheel base table clamp, which itself is a heavy beast. The fidelity is a perfect solution with setup! I may buy a 80/20 extrusion rig at some point. But, this thing works great on my table based rig. So, can you use the CSL DD on a table... Heck Yeah!
Purchased a tgt2 for cheap till I can get my hands on a dd Pro for my ps5. Previously had a g29 and loved it but can see myself getting a dd Pro soon as they become. More available in march
I keep buying Thrustmaster because it easily available plus i can return it straight away to the shop if it has a problem. They just give you a new one. The only reason i'm not liking Fanatec is because i heard from friends when you have a problem its a journey to get it replaced or fixed. Sorry i'm cautious of where my money goes and not over hyped. TS PC also kinda feels more like real car when driving from what i have felt between the two. One day i will get the DD. Secondly the creaking wow my TSPC does not make that noise :)) What version did you buy or from whom?
You basically started saying your TSPC feels better than a CSL DD, and then at the end you said you'll get a DD one day anyway!😂 I'm very happy with the DD, glad I purchased it, way more detail and precise feeling compared to the TSPC. Much more precision in setting up just how I like it. As for the creaking with the TSPC, I fixed it as I mentioned in the video even, just by tightening the screws. The DD for me has perfect 8nm torque, and looking forward to a new wheel for it soon.
I live by my ts PC. W formula wheel maxed out this is beyond what average needs
It's all about the details, more force behind a wheelbase, even turned down with provide better details, even with high torque, but turned down.
But yes, TS-PC still has plenty to use for most people.
Exactly what I wanted to hear mate. I dunno if I can justify the extra grand all told! It's a joke.
@@CameronF1TV to give you an example. I'm 30 used to kart, always played vid race games, always good rank. Been doing sim racing for 5months I have beaten many gods except on iRacing w my ts pc and formula wheel..if you take the time it's incredible and powerful, feels like I'm actually racing. Its 9nm+ of torque. You can barely drive it at 100% and it goes crazier than that.
@@CameronF1TV also I had all the DD n all that ready to buy in cart online but we know there are aliens etc that can beat gods w a g27 so after all unbiased review and research I saw that for PC, the ts PC is by far best value..mate it w pro pedals you are good to go.
Omg that’s the wheel creaking that would drive me INSANE
I have just ordered dd as a bundle with formula wheel thanks to you video
I was unsure whether to go for thrustmaster which does sound like a good wheel but I have a little ocd and creaking doesn't sound like it would work for me lol
Update received my csl dd broken as is alot of people's!!!! I have the vibration/scratchy problem which is so common with the dd
Intro : 0:00
Comparison Starts: 1:09
Details and softness are at simicube
Omg that must have been the LONGEST week ever lol
Nice upgrade mate 👍
I think this video sealed the deal for me, a CSL DD 8Nm with the Fanatec WRC rim and V3 pedals, an Aiologs sequential shifter and a heusinkveld handbrake. Now I just need to decide what rig to build it all on, any suggestions?
Great video, very helpful to hear from someone that owned both and can compare fairly.
I only hear bad things about the WRC wheel. Also it's pretty much the same as the BMW wheel but more expensive isn't it?
@@ObitoUchihaisgay Really? I haven't really come across anything about that wheel being bad. It looks like a pretty standard wheel which what I want for Rally, I wonder if it's the shifters that are bad then because I doubt the rim itself is bad?
@@messiahshow I own the WRC wheel and I would not say it is bad in anyway. The shifters are also good, no problems. I guess most people say it's bad because it looks very similar to the older elite p1 which was not the best. But it has been completely new designed and it works really fine. Go for it. 30 cm diameter is a good allrounder combined with the fully round design.
crazy you got your base and I ordered in November got the clubsport v3 pedals and the WRC rim and the 8nm CSL DD and it said pre order for january 3rd and now it says january 27th on my account I emailed them and they said its because of boats in california lame excuse to me when someone spends over a 1000 dollars on stuff and this happens amazing you got yours so fast great video
Yeah mine came early! That never happens to me. You'll love it when it finally gets to you!
Hi To have 8nm with your CLS DD you have to put everything 100% to achieve it, and again not to have the 8nm and in addition you saturate all the information received (in the game) from your CLS DD, (It's as if you put your volume for the music to the maximum it's going to be distorted. Compared to the DD1 that I have there is a lot more info which is received even at 40%.
You have the turn down in game force to prevent clipping. This is where a higher ffb wheel becomes better.
Agreed. I have the CSL DD 8nm (100% gain in Fanalab), but at 60% in-game as I love a lighter wheel. Nonetheless, the nuances transmitted by a direct drive wheel need to be experienced to appreciate.
My Thrustmaster TX base just died and I'm now consider whether to get a new Thrustmaster TS-XW base or wait for the Fanetec CSL -DD to become available (another 2 month). From your comments it sounds like I should wait for the CSL
I would definitely go direct drive, but there are other options like Simagic Alpha Mini, it more $$$ though. I still love my dd, but if you get the McLaren rim, you should get the Clubsport QR1 metal quick release too.
In Brazil we don't have Fanatec, we only have Moza, Simagic, Logitech (Pro) and Thrustmaster.
Simagic is superior
I got my CSL DD 8nm a couple of days ago and almost immediately notice a clunking feeling. This is my first DD or Fanatec product, but I'm wondering if the clunking is normal? My gut tells me no since everybody on RUclips is saying how smooth the wheel base is. I'm wondering if I should return it since I"m still in my 14 day return period.
Are you using qr lite? If so, that's probably why, I switched to the qr1, the metal quick release, and fixed it. It would click when there was a change in direction.
@@aubreycolemanracing Yeah, I'm using the QR Lite. I just ordered the metal qr1...let's hope that solves the problem. Subscribed!!! Thanks.
@@kennychan2044 if your using the same wheel, also use the screw that comes with it, makes it even more secure.👍
Why does your TS-PC rim sound like you have a Tesla coil sparking nearby? I have a T300 with the Ferrari 599XX alcantara rim & even though it's been used a lot, it's still difficult to get any sound out of it
After the recording, I removed the wheel, tightened all the hex bolts and its about 80% better now.👍
I wish Fanatec could stay in stock. I don't want to settle for belt driven...
I have a CSL Elite Wheelbase V2.5 with F1 rim I don’t see the point in upgrading, my next upgrade will be a DD1 or a DD2 the csl DD is kinda flimsy the input shaft wobble’s, and the bump stops aren’t great few other things it runs kinda hot from what I understand too
Definitely doesn't run hot, and direct drive wheels don't have stops. But don't know what the elite feels like, so can't comment on if it's worth getting a dd. Your probably right, dd1 or 2 maybe better for you for your next upgrade.👍I went from g29, to tspc, and now a dd. At this stage in not willing to spent thousands if dollars on a dd1 or 2. I know a few people that sold their dd1 to get the dd, as they never used it over 10nm. Everyone is different though, depends on how much you want out of a base.
so I hated my trustmaster, too realistic or to much force ( found it much harder than remote).... I want to get better lap times then remote, will I like the fanatec? or should I buy a Logitech?
The CSL DD has much more precise details, as its direct drive. And has more force with boost kit. You need boost kit to get much better details, you can always dial down the ffb if it's too strong for you.👍
Have you thought about getting the wheel base strengthening kit from Next Level?
I started out about 10 yrs ago. Bought all Thrustmaster gear. As I got better I switched to Fannatec. Fannatec is my choice simply because I broke everything Thrustmaster had.
Ngl, just look how rough the thrustmaster is on start up.. that and so many stupid design aspects left me waiting for it to inevitably break.. which it did
Yo tengo el TSPC y no hace esos crujidos, es exagerado lo que se oye. No es silencioso pero a ti te cruje demasiado. Saludos
English?
@@aubreycolemanracing Translation ----> I have the TSPC and it doesn't make those crackles, it's exaggerating what you hear. He is not silent but he crunches you too much. Best regards
@@Jack1959qc gracias por la traducción!
@@Jack1959qc I did tighten all bolts after video, and it fixed it 80%
Congratulation... mine will arrive mid January. I am completely new to sim racing. What is your tv screen size is. Thanks
I use a 55inch LG 4k TV, but mainly drive with VR with HP Reverb g2.
Thanks for the review. I have been weighing up the TS PC for a long while now but could never get stock in the UK for a decent price. Then the CSL DD came out but I don't wanna get dragged into their expensive ecosystem with the wheels etc. In terms of % how much of an improvement would you say the DD is over the TM wheel?
Also worth consideration is the simagic mini, It's not too much more than the CSL but with 10NM torque and compatible with different wheels etc so I think that might be my next step if I don't go for one of the other 2 options.
Yes the Simagic may be a good one to get, I got the dd with boost kit because 8nm for me is more than enough. The dd is probably about 50% better than the tspc. I should have waited and got the dd before the tspc, as direct drive is that much better, smoother, more detail than belt drive. Il probably only get one more wheel, like the BMW rim, so I can have a wheel for all uses. The Simagic might be better than dd, the more force, the more detail you will get. I am just very happy with the dd 8nm, still gives my arms a workout!
@@aubreycolemanracing thanks that nails it for me then. TS PC if on sale (can be had for around £400) if not I'll go simagic/csl DD with boost kit which bith come in around £7-800 with a wheel
@@benjimc1 That is true, the csl dd with a decent wheel cost the double of a ts pc. Is it worthy then?
@@benjimc1 deff go csl dd man its so worth it. And u have console support. sim magic no console support at all, and not all racing games are supported on pc. fanatec everygame is supported.
@@benjimc1 Its on sale now. Dutch amazon. 260 for the base (thats euros ;) )
Back in 2016 I had a T500 with the Ferrari 5999xxxx whatever the hell it’s called and it popped and cracked like crazy. Right out the box. Thrustmaster told me they didn’t see anything wrong with that when I sent them a video. Few years later I had the V1 Mclaren with a DD2 and it’s popping and cracking got so bad I could feel it through gloves. I didn’t contact the manufacturer this time. I just got a SimUCube 2 Pro and Cube Controls wheel instead.
All you had to do was silicone spray the belt
Can somebody explain to me. What are the differences if you have the QR1 or the QR lite on your Fanatec wheel? Do you have less torque with the QR lite etc?
The plastic quick release is for low torque mode. So most dd1 and dd2 users use the newer metal quick release.
The plastic QR has a pole that enters the wheel activating a switch for low-torque mode on CSL rims. If your wheel is out of warranty or you don’t mind doing so, you can disassemble the QR from the wheel and just cut off that pole so you can use the CSL rim (eg the McLaren) on Podium wheels in high-torque mode. If you’re on CSL DD, no need to do so.
Thanks to you both for the reply, it is clear now 👍
Nice video. For someone that has never used a wheel would you say 5NM is a good start or just get 8NM I am guessing that the feed back of the wheel can be turned down? I been playing by keyboard American Truck Simulator I want get a wheel the fanatec DD looks good vs Thrustmaster looks to toy like.
The csl dd will be perfect for most, I know people that sold their dd1-2 to get the dd, because you get all the detail you need at 8nm. But some like the extra force though. Definitely worth getting 8nm straight away.
5NM is good but if you do get the 8NM you will never go back. If you are a kid the 5NM will be perfect though. You can always get the 8NM either officially or build one if you want, later.
I have a 5Nm CSL DD, and you absolutely do not need more than that for ATS. Rich, detailed FFB has never been that game's strong suit, so you really will not be missing out on anything.
You really don't need a DD wheel for AMS. The game doesn't really have much force feedback (ofc trucks irl don't either). If you are ok with just paying for the looks that's fine, but you could just as well get a wheel for 300€
5nm is crap compared to 8nm. 5nm feels like a floppy one lool
Same gloves from Decathlon as mine :) Cheers
🤣 I love em!
What’s your thoughts I’m trying to get into sim racing should I go with fanatic or trustmaster ? like since you upgraded it to a fanatic did you feel a huge differences ?
Big difference! But thrustmaster still great wheel, way better than the G29. That being said, take a look at the Simagic 10nm wheel. The Fanatec wheels have a great wheel eco system though, I love my csl dd!
I had creaking in two of my thrustmaster wheels and both times it was due to loose screws in the wheel. Once I tightened them the creaking went away.
Same, tightening screw fix 95% of thr cracks.
My T150 has the same power as the 5 nm dd but dd is smoother. T150 simulated legend cars perfect
Hi Aubrey Love your Vids
What settings where u using on your TSPC
TM control panel and ingame in AMS2...
I am using everything at 100% in TM Panel
and Default + ingame 38 Gain... 20 low force....20 Dampening
No idea whether this is what i should be doing.....Drives ok but is it right
Cheers Dude ...keep it up
Craig NZ
50 FX
I honestly can't remember sorry!
@@aubreycolemanracing All good brother..
Lets hope for more licensing manufacturers in AMS 2 like ford and ferrari
Nice presentation, one question: 'detail'...what does that mean specifically to you? I have a TX & can feel pretty much every bump & tyre compression, etc. Is it more the smoothness of DD not masking the feedback? maybe the belts add a layer of heat dissipation & distort the signal? I'm thinking of upgrading but not 100% sure what I'll be getting for the considerable outlay, even though of course kudos to Fanatec for bringing what is generally agreed to be the highest fidelity to a reasonable level of affordability. One little thought that a friend of mine, who's an automotive engineer but never plays video games, gave me: a front wheel drive car has a more direct drive than a rear wheel drive car but that doesn't translate to more detail for the driver. Good content & a very valid comparison :)
Thanks for your comment, the main reason I got the dd was smoothness, therefore not loosing detail through the belt drive, the use of fanatec wheels, no noise I can record wheel now without annoying wheel noise. And yes you do feel really great front wheel drive detail in the dd. The tspc is still good, but the the dd has that much better force also, which translates into better detail.👍
I upgraded from the TX to the dd1 podium and the difference is huge. Not just ffb power but every detail, I love my TX still but it's just a different league. The first decent upgrade was my pedals though, from fanatec clubsport to meca cup 1's
And that is where the biggest lap time improvements and consistency come from.
It's all expensive but well worth it if it's something you're into 😊
@@WOTsON85 yep, I went from logitech to v3 pedals, would even better pedals make that much difference? Thanks for your comment btw.👍
So, IT will be much better then tmx pro ?
Yes by far
i just got the ts xw for 500 bucks with with the T 3pm and this is my upgrade from a g29 i could not find the csl dd anywhere in stock with out paying $150 in shiping im kinda sad but i just couldent pay anymore but i hope its better then my g29 thats all i had it for 3 years the g29 has done me good.. nice video man thanks
You'll love it, massive upgrade from the g29! Plenty of torque, and details.
Have you tried TS-PC with new firmware/driver and "Boost" function "On"?
I'm thinking of getting into sim racing and from all the reviews, a CSL DD would be a great starting point! Have you tested a Next Level Racing GTTrack? That looks like it would be the default choice for a basic, yet sturdy cockpit
The only cockpit I've used is the one I have, and I really need an upgrade! The DD is a fantastic wheel, make sure to get a metal quick release adapter for you wheel though, especially if your going to use 8nm power supply. I would also recommend the 8nm.👍
Nice video! What rig does you have it attached to? I also have the CSL DD with 8NM and its too much for my Playseat Challenge 🤪 Bought myself a Simlab p1x yesterday, and when it arrives the flex probably leaves 😎
I use it on the Next Level F-GT, and get a bit of flex. Saying that, I don't notice it when driving. Need a new rig really!👍
Looks like the bolts aren't holding up the rig itself doesnt seem to be flexing?
@@zuber2325 main wheel mount on the rig, with the up-rights flex, the bolts are tight, don't notice it really, but I will for sure upgrade the rig soon, it's not great.
YO LOL i could watch rewatch this 5 times and still laugh ...
thrustmaster ... BOOOM BOOOM
fanatec ... ... ...
Oh yeah, I hated every time I turned the thing on!
Your telling me the ts xw dosent destroy itself with that start up procedure? My ts xw just broke and thrustmaster wanted half of rrp to repair a unit that came out in 2017 what a joke
Thrustmaster sounds "Creaky", not sure if this is the rig, but it was not evident with the Fanatec
I mentioned it in the video. The ferrari wheel is noisy, but got way better after tightening all the bolts.
@@aubreycolemanracing got csl dd, with wrc and plastic qr, sounds cracking when i turn
@@izhangt3787 With the WRC wheel, I would go with the metal QR. Only using McLaren wheel at the moment.
@@aubreycolemanracing metal qr is the same but click click instead of clank clank xD
I have an TS PC which ist noisy at all
I got the ts pc with the 599xx wheels hopefully it wont crack as much as yours
It should be fine, but I fixed it by tightening the wheel screws.
Hello! if I understand you correctly, ts pc also has very good ffb detail, so this is not a critical difference with csl dd? or you didn’t even feel anything like that from driving a car on a ts pc? I just broke my whole head already, I can’t decide what to switch to from t300, I think I can still save as much as $ 500 and take tc ps. Is it so much worse in terms of car sensations than csl dd?
Definitely wouldn't advise getting a ts-ps from what you already have, but the dd would be a nice upgrade, after good amount of time with the dd now, I can say the detail is far better and smoother details, you only feel the car with the dd as it's direct drive, as with the ts-pc, you feel the motor.
You should however get the 8nm boost kit, and a metal quick release for the dd's wheels.
@@aubreycolemanracing Thank you for the answer! yes, I want to take csl dd pro, and it already comes with a boost kit 8Hm. Why do you say that I need a metal lock? I read that this new plastic is very durable and reliable
@@user-fx7on4qn8t my plastic qr started clicking, lots of people had the same problem, it's definitely not back, but noticeable. The metal qr is much more secure.
@@aubreycolemanracing I do not understand, the steering wheel slips on the shaft? Does it tighten well with this mount?
this is first time I heard of the creaking noise could have been damaged wheel rim or even faulty base unity as I had t300rs and now the TS-PC and it's very silent don't make any noise for me. currently use TS-pc with T-LCM pedals and they work great, I've owned G27 and G29 and those felt like toys they are not worth any asking price if you're even slightly serious about sim racing. even old Thrustmaster Ferrari F430 FFB is using belt driven ffb which I don't understand why logitch is so stubborn on sticking with gear driven ffb.
The creaking is only in this Ferrari wheel, and I fixed it by tightening all the bolts on it. It's not a problem in the base at all. I'm pretty sure logitech are working on a direct drive wheel base.
@@aubreycolemanracing Wait, what? Logitech?
I'm looking to get into sim racing and I found a used thrustmaster t-gt which is similar to ts-pc but uglier. The price is 300€. Is it good?
Yeah pretty good price.
my sparco p310 wheel used to make that sound, it was the plastic screw holes completely destroyed, i had to fix it with epoxy resin
Was probably loose long time ago?
@@aubreycolemanracing yup, i bought it new like a year ago and it had the noise from day 1 not in a high degree but noticeable, the plastic of the button box is very weak so it could ended up beign destroyed by so much tightening
Wow, after seeing this in action for a while it would be hard to go back to a Belt Drive hey?
Definitely! Direct is so smooth, and more detailed.👍
I have a ts-xw on my pc and it's almost silent.. The only thing you can hear is the cheap plastic from the adapter but than that it's practically silent.
It's only a problem on some with the same ferrari wheel. I fixed it by tightening every screw.
is there anyway of using thrustmaster pedals with this wheelbase? Or does it only work with fanatec's own pedals?
Well I never used Thrustmaster pedals, but if the are usb you probably could, but I think they plug directly into wheelbase? Not sure sorry.
@@aubreycolemanracing Ah ok, nah they have that smaller type networkcable-style connector sadly :/ May be some kind of converter to usb out there tho, i have to research :D Is the TS-PC The same as TS-XW?
man i want your pc. dont be surprised if you come home without a wheel and pc XD
🤣
My thrustmaster tsxw doesn't sync it just locks up and my pc won't recognize is there. Any solutions
Probably contact Thrustmaster. Haven't heard of this before.
Why didn't you get the Simagic Alpha Mini, much better
I've just blown up my g29 so getting the dd pro do you notice that flex in your wheel plate when you're driving at all?
Surprisingly I don't notice the flex when driving!🤣 you'll love the dd pro! For PS5?
@@aubreycolemanracing awesome cheers I honestly cannot wait until it arrives just hope its soon
@@setthestandardsimracing8689 the wait will be worth it!
when you say, u feel so much for detail, explain what do you feel more or never felt before the DD?
You feel the road, track surface, every bump on laser scanned tracks, you feel when the car over and understeers more, just feels more like your connected to the car. You feel correct weight in the steering, like a real car.
@@aubreycolemanracing alright, got you. thank you
I have a CSDD coming from a TSXW and now cant feel the tyres... The ffb es soo good but 0 feelings in the tyre grip
So no tyre feel on the dd? Must be settings, not setup properly.
@@aubreycolemanracing idk, lack of road effect maybe
just got the tspc racer myself going from the g920 ..do you have any setting for ac as im struggling to get a good feel
Not really, just make sure you don't use any of the the extra stuff on content manager. The stuff of the right side of the force feedback settings page.
@@aubreycolemanracing thanks man will give it a shot
Does fanatec and thrustmaster funktion together. im thinking about buying fanatec wheel but i have thrustmaster pedals?
As long as your Thrustmaster pedals can be plugged direct into your pc, and your pc recognises the pedals on there own. Should be okay. Best check that though.
@@aubreycolemanracing thanks!
I know is out of the subject but I got a question how did you change your miles per hour to just a gear indicator?
Are you talking about the CSL DD?
@@aubreycolemanracing in yourclaren v2. I see when you change gear its stay show what gear you are on
@@trpny9694 yeah it's done that since I bought it! You should be able to change it in the fanatec software.
@@aubreycolemanracing thank you.
@@aubreycolemanracing my bad brp i try to find it but is not in the app in my cumputer.. please let me know how you doit my sterring wheel is blocking my gear indicator in my screen.
Ams 2 has very exaggerated unrealistic ffb. I love ams 2 but the ffb is a weak spot. As for acc, u need to run the base at 100% ffb on the csl dd and adjust per car in game . Acc is very reliant on having a lot of dynamic range available. I run my dd1 in acc at 75% ffb and adjust per car.
Your wheel must not be tight because my tsxw or any of my thrustmaster wheels make no sounds like that
It's only on the ferrari challenge Edition, and as I mentioned in the vid, I fixed it by tightening all the screws. Very common on this wheel.
today we compare a Porsche against a dacia. Lets see how it pans out!
Um....yep, sure...
@0:06 TS-PC “ Watch me get my motor running “
@
0:15 CSL DD “ Pffft.....Really? Relax bro you doing too much”
There are probably a lot of people watching this who don't realise that there is a superior alternative to the CSL DD: The Simagic Alpha Mini.
Link?
There is, but nearly $600 more expensive in Australia.
Purchase a buttkicker gamer plus. And thank me later. Once you tried it. You cant play without. It adds so much immersion to the game
What wheel stand are you using?
Next Level F-GT cockpit.
I thought t300 had 65w motor.
I Dont understand my csl dd unit, sometimes its just so much strong and sometimes not
In which sim?
@@aubreycolemanracing ams2
@@izhangt3787 maybe increase low force boost a little.
Gotta say...AMS2's force feedback is really not as good as ACC. It got much better than before but still not as good.
What wheel do you use?
I use both the tsxw and the DD pro 8Nm. With the DD once all calibrated, the FFB is pretty good 8n ACC, a tad exaggerated in AMS2.
CSL DD 8nm has at top peak. Constant torque is only 6nm.
Really?
I use the same gloves! 😂😂
They're perfect! No need for real racing gloves here!
Agree.
Where can I get those gloves?
Cycling gloves from Decathlon sport shop!🤣 I wasn't happy with racing gloves, too big and bulky.
have you tried raceroom?
Yep, a little bit but I will tune my settings and do a vid, currently doing one on AMS2.
Just bought the ts pc Racer cause cant geht a fanatec Right know or Its like 370€ More than the ts pc and the dd From thrustmaster is like Never coming out an Probyaly Costello more Money so im Fine i guess
Mime doesn't calibrate and spin . . .
If your talking about the dd, maybe make sure driver is installed properly.
Hmm. I have the latest driver installed
Would it be because I am using it in compatability mode rather than pc mode . . .
@@azzazz4549 it still should calibrate..maybe uninstall fanatec drivers, and start again?🤔
@@aubreycolemanracing is will try. When my wheel calibrated, it turned just a small amount but didn't spin 360 like yours did
I tried to replicate what happened in the video... No luck. I can't even get the wheel to do the fan like spin. It just calibrates as normal. I apologize to anyone who read before this edit. I was mistaken.
Please compare this products with the same wheel. This movie is useless.
What?
F1 add on Thrustmaster and F1 add on on Fanatec.