Fanatec CSL DD (8nm) Review After One Year!
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- Опубликовано: 27 дек 2023
- Well it's almost time to switch to the new Clubsport Plus, so I thought I would review the CSL DD after approximately 1 year! Hope this helps some people!
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MY PC:
CPU
Ryzen 5900x
CPU Cooler
NZXT Kraken X73
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix x570-E Motherboard
Memory
G.Skill Triden Z Neo 3600mhz C16D 32GB (4x8g)
Graphics
MSI Suprim X 4090
SSD
Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB M.2 SSD
HDD
Seagate BarraCuda 4TB HDD
Case
Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic XL ROG Black
Power Supply
Corsair HX1000 Platinum ATX Power Supply
Software
Microsoft Windows 10 Home USB Retail Pack
Fan
6x Lian Li UNI SL 120mm + 3x NZXT Kraken RBG fans + 3x Corsair fans for push/pull intake.
Extra
Bitfenix Scorptec System PSU Cables Black
SIM GEAR
Fanatec CSL DD Direct Drive Wheel, With McLaren GT3 V2 wheel & WRC Wheel.
Fanatec Shifter
Fanatec Handbrake V2.5
Fanatec Clubsport V3 Pedals
Next Level GT Elite Cockpit With Front & Side Mount
Next Level Triple Monitor Stand
Next Level Keyboard & Mouse Tray
3x Gigabyte M32Q 165hz Monitors In Triple Set-Up
LG C2 42 inch OLED 120hz
LG Super LED 4K TV
Samsung Odyssey G9 Super Ultrawide 5120x1440, QLED, 240hz.
HP Reverb G2 VR Headset
#fanatec #csldd #simracing 
Игры
I have had the CSL DD 8Nm for about the same time. I do love it and I got the QR2 when I bought an F1 eSports wheel. In taking the wheel off with that quick release, it was so tight that when it came off, the wheel smashed me in the head! Bruised for 3 days. Also, the pedal port for my Clubsport V.3 pedals failed at about the 6 month mark. Only suggested solution was to send it to Fanatec at my cost, then they would tell me what the repair cost would be. If I agreed, they would fix it and send it back to me at my cost. I chose to plug the pedals in via USB.
Very True, I have had my DD Pro for just over 2 years and yes, the Boost kit is a good addition Mate. Great review
Nice review, waiting for your CS DD+ comparison video :)
Ive had mine since last yr November, just yesterday the stem lost conection lol. It never fully came off but i lost sterring input and gain 100% WOT 😂🤣😂🤣 right into the AI and wall i went.
I re sat everything back in and torqued the bolt down to 132inch/lbs = 15 NM from what Fanatec said.
My wheel base feels brand new now 😅the FFB seems to have more intensity and duration now.
Lol time to relearn my bad habbits away now that my CSL just got a breath of fresh air.
The tape mod for the plastic quick release works extremely well.
What is that? If you don't mind me asking
@darthvader2635 You take a strip of tape and put it along the groove for the fanatec quick release and it makes the wheel have zero play.
I agree with the qr1 lite being trash, mine would creak and crackle, put up with it until i decided to bite bullet and buy QR1 for $50 after QR2 came out. So far working great, only have 1 wheel (McLaren) and use set screw. Pretty happy with CSL 8nm myself. Don't feel i need anymore strength. 75% in RF2 is typically perfect for me.
Interested to see how you like new base though. Cheers 🍺
I'll soon find out! I'll do a comparison video.👍
Only game that has issues with 8nm is gt7 lol. Every other game is pretty beastly tbh.
I have one question... I'm going from a Thrustmaster TX servo base which is belt driven, but I can't run it with more than 75% force feedback because it cuts out when I try to fight it. Will something similar happen with the csl dd?
@ajlfilms they all will clip, but the dd if you get the 8nm, still has a good amount of force before it clips. Much less noticeable than the belt driven. I had a ts-pc once.
i got one CSL DD base in use now for 2 weeks... i got around 10 FFB and buttons disconects during the race! I race before with a clubsport base without problems all the years... idk this base is just crab or? I try all fixes that you can find but nothing help me. What can i do?
Check to make sure the shaft end hasn't slid out a bit. Might have to loosen the shaft, and slide it back in a bit.
I would really appreciate it if you'd share your settings for assetto corsa and ams2 pretty please.
I will post them here soon.👍
Looking to buy the gt3 McLaren bundle, i think you have to buy pedals separately, with problems it has is it worth it to get it or wait for moza to release the r3 again
I don't know what the moza wheels are like, but I was very happy with the csl dd, and the McLaren wheel.
How is the weight feel of the car with the 8nm dd? My issue is some people with dd say belts feel more weighty? Like not fidelty but turning in yoy feel more weight. I want that weight feel so i know ill need the 8nm but how is it? I care about that as much as fidelity.
There are settings on the wheelbase to add effects like weight , inertia and more. Plus all the other benefits of DD. You'll be happy with this product
@@Remzly thanks man
hey nice vid. I'm just wondering what factors you have considered when choosing Fanatec over other brands emerging on the market like Moza.
Don't get me wrong, I just placed an order for the CSL DD waiting for it to ship. I'm a bit regretful cuz most of the reviews on Moza say their products have a better QC than Fanatec.
Especially the QR system on MOZA is sturdy as a tank, from what I've heard.
I bought the dd before any decent moza wheelbases came out. And I wanted the fanatec wheel ecosystem.
@@aubreycolemanracing I see! Then I hope I'll be happy with my choice as well!
Did u get the QR2 btw?
@chengraphael9185 yes I got 2 for use with my dd+ when I get it. You'll love thr csl dd.
can you just wrap plumbers tape to take up slack in QR1?
just put the axial screw. If you don't have a hole, drill one in the female connector.
Im only coming from a g29. Been on the fence between gtdd and the G pro for literally over a month. Just purchased the GTDD 8nm and am very anxious on if it’ll be “enough” for me even though i have no experience. I play mainly gt7 rn and just wanted a DD wheel to really get into sim racing.
My main argument was the logi being my “highest id go” and fanna leaving me wishing i went with the logi
If your only mainly playing gt7, the 8nm will be great. But you will absolutely get more out of your wheel if you use it for pc sim racing. The detail in pc sims are WAY better than gt7. Don''t get me wrong. I still love to play gt7!
@@aubreycolemanracing ill for sure play more. Iracing is on the cards especially. Just wanna build a solid pc. Hence saving then couple bucks and trying the gtdd
I’m new to wheels and all that, what is a bolt? Is that a part of the wheel?
I was probably referring to the bolt used to secure the qr1 quick release, as there was still movement in it.
I'm worried if 8mm is enough and that i would be longing for more.
8nm for torque is pretty decent, but it's being able to hold the force that's good with higher force wheels. I still think the detail with the csl dd was really good.
My base is getting very hot if i'm riding for over 4hours is that normaal
Wouldn't have thought it would get hot at all. It never got remotely warm for me.
dude has wolfman legs like me
Haha can't say I'm blessed with super smooth legs!🤣
Great video but the jingle in the background is annoying to me.
There is no "chingle" in my video.
@@aubreycolemanracingwell it's the music in the background or whatever. Just a pet peeve of mine. Please don't take offense 😊
@Helveticus2645 oh don't worry, I don't take offence.
i; getting the 8nm as my first wheel
You'll love it!
@@aubreycolemanracingjust ordered it as my first, as well. I hope there aren’t major delay problems.
@@matthewbrennan6466 Enjoy!
It s Nm, not nm. nm is nanometer
You commenting, not using a capital n? Dude, try spelling "it's" first!
@@aubreycolemanracingyou got him on the its, but if nanometers (nm) is starting a sentence it wouldn’t be capital or else that would be Newton meters lol
QR1 is better than QR2 in long run.
And why is that?
@@aubreycolemanracing IMHO QR1 is better than QR2.
Since the base side part is made of aluminium and if managed to be scratched after a few removes/reattachements imagine what will happen in continuous interchanging of wheels.
I believe the cause of this is due to the QR2 locking rods on the wheel side, which should be made of stainless steel and come in contact with the aluminum part of the base side.
So in the long run these rods will wear the edges of aluminium base enough to loosen contact with it. I hope I'm wrong but only time and use will tell.
I also find QR2 are too expensive for nothing.
@@TZAG there is way too much movement in the qr1, so whether or not the qr2 lasts, I'd still rather no movement. You can also help the wear of the rods sliding on the surface by pulling back a but on the sleeve.
@@aubreycolemanracing Pulling back the QR2 part of the wheel while attaching it is not the solution.
In that case, what's the point of wasting your money for a system where you use it exactly same as you did before with the QR1?
Ball bearing locking system is a way better than rods. Even competition like Moza is using it quite successfully.
@TZAG like I said, qr1 has way too much movement, will see if the rods last in the qr2. It's the only option at the moment. Qr1 is a terrible design, just to must movement.