For those wondering, this snare shell is the 1st generation King Beat snare. Great drums. No need to weld over the lug holes for 1/16th of an inch; Simply bore out the existing holes. I have the same shell and just simply bored them out and the 2" lugs went on with zero issues. Leave the extra holes as is so that it gives the drum a drier sound as it's simply an extra airhole. The drum does look sharp. Props!
I have nearly a full set of early 80's lugs from a tama imperialstar kit. Rims, Tom mount, bass drum legs, lugs casings and two 24" bass hoops. If anyone is interested hit me up.
That's an interesting project! Were you worried about painting the bearing edges? I know when a wood drum gets repainted, it's important to tape over the bearing edges. But I'm not sure if that's typical for a metal shell
That's a great question, actually. I have a lot of experience with paints because I own a remodeling business and because I've done a lot of automotive work over the decades. In this case it was a metal shell, and I was using a spray enamel. As long as you give it time to cure the paint should hold up just fine on the bearing edge. I don't spray heavily there so I avoid build up, and that ensures that the paint won't affect the tone in any great way. For wood shells you could make an argument that keeping paint away from the bearing edge would provide a smoother point of contact and allow the use of waxes if desired. However, I also have been using Tama toms with the "Zola coat" finish for decades, and that is basically just paint. In fact, it's a pretty rough painted surface and it extends to the bearing edge. Yet, they sound just fine. So, I think if you want to paint wood bearing edges you still can, but I would also recommend keeping the coats light and allowing the paint to fully cure. A lot of people don't realize that standard latex paints can take weeks to fully cure, even though they may be dry in an hour. A few days is enough to build a functional cure, though.
That's way better than just leaving it hanging around or throwing it away, looks and sounds good! Nice job thanks for the share.
Those steel shells were top of the line spun and seamless.
The were a hidden gem.
I agree--they really were great and they were used across the entire Tama line.
For those wondering, this snare shell is the 1st generation King Beat snare. Great drums.
No need to weld over the lug holes for 1/16th of an inch; Simply bore out the existing holes. I have the same shell and just simply bored them out and the 2" lugs went on with zero issues. Leave the extra holes as is so that it gives the drum a drier sound as it's simply an extra airhole. The drum does look sharp. Props!
Nice job, that drum looks great re-done.
Very nice,looks great.
Beautiful job! Love the new & improved sound
Great job and sounds good!
incredible job.....
I have nearly a full set of early 80's lugs from a tama imperialstar kit. Rims, Tom mount, bass drum legs, lugs casings and two 24" bass hoops. If anyone is interested hit me up.
if my bank account didn't say $0 i'd be on this in a heartbeat!
Love the colour as well.....
Make the chrome on outside really Pop
That's an interesting project! Were you worried about painting the bearing edges? I know when a wood drum gets repainted, it's important to tape over the bearing edges. But I'm not sure if that's typical for a metal shell
That's a great question, actually. I have a lot of experience with paints because I own a remodeling business and because I've done a lot of automotive work over the decades. In this case it was a metal shell, and I was using a spray enamel. As long as you give it time to cure the paint should hold up just fine on the bearing edge. I don't spray heavily there so I avoid build up, and that ensures that the paint won't affect the tone in any great way.
For wood shells you could make an argument that keeping paint away from the bearing edge would provide a smoother point of contact and allow the use of waxes if desired. However, I also have been using Tama toms with the "Zola coat" finish for decades, and that is basically just paint. In fact, it's a pretty rough painted surface and it extends to the bearing edge. Yet, they sound just fine. So, I think if you want to paint wood bearing edges you still can, but I would also recommend keeping the coats light and allowing the paint to fully cure. A lot of people don't realize that standard latex paints can take weeks to fully cure, even though they may be dry in an hour. A few days is enough to build a functional cure, though.
NICE !
👍