OK, my passenger side drum started locking up in January. I needed front brakes too so I replaced pretty much everything… drums, shoes, pads, rotors, …even installed new calipers and anti-rattle rubber bushings. Almost immediately I noticed that my brakes felt like they were grabbing and releasing at low speeds, like something was warped. I thought it was the front caliper so I removed everything a few weeks later to clean and rebuild. I did find that one of the stainless clips had popped out, so I replaced it with yet another brand new set (calipers and pads included them so I had extras). Confident that I had found the problem, I resumed driving and discovered that I still had the problem. It simply must be my passenger side drum. It even developed a squeak, so now you can feel and hear the brake pulsing. Guess I’m going back in. I cleaned and greased and adjusted everything the first time so I have to assume something more serious got damaged when it first locked up on me. The cylinder looked fine. It’s definitely not bearings, but do you think I need a new wheel hub? Maybe a shoe just didn’t fall into place where it belongs? It’s been a few months now so I hope my new shoes aren’t cracked like you describe.
That brake fluid level sensor threw me for a loop on the 2000 Pontiac Montana (same van). The 2000 model has a “message center” on the dash that reports low coolant, low fuel, etc but it apparently does not report low brake fluid even though there is a sensor. The sensor goes to the same light as your parking brake, which made me assume it was just an issue with my brake switch… especially since it would only come on when accelerating. It worsened and would soon only go off by slowing. Even then, I didn’t realize I was dealing with brake fluid sloshing around a level sensor until I actually saw a puddle and ruled out an oil leak. Only then did I check the repair manual to see that the schematic shows the BCM and a fluid level sensor connected to the same light on the gauge cluster. Doh!
3:42 In my experience with drum brakes, there is an access hole in the rear where you can get a screwdriver in and back off the adjuster for the parking brake. Looks like you have a plug in the front of the drum where you can stick a flat screwdriver in and turn the adjuster in. The adjusters are typically RH thread on one side and LH thread on the other.
IN reality the slave cylinder bolts are inverted Torx E8. YOu can get the set fairly cheaply (like 7 different sizes for 14 bucks. The brake hardware is NOT, repeat NOT the same on both sides. The adjust screw (threaded bolt and receptacle is CW on one side, CCW on the other. Difference one. The forks at the ebrake end has a tine pointing down, so they are mirrored. Difference TWO. The clips that slide under the fork on the OTHER side is a mirror image 'twixt the 'twain. So there are four parts different.
And if you remove and restore the backing plates as I did, removing the ebrake cable is AWFUL!! And for whatever reason, the adjustment was too tight so getting the ebrake lever onto the ebrake cable end was AWFUL!!! you may need to loosen up the ebrake adjuster assembly in the rear bottom center of the car - usually very rusted so care is advised. I also replaced the brake hub bearing assemblies but that's another video.
Yeah that was some serious crap you found in that truck! I’m just glad I got this lady fixed up. She could have been injured or even killed if those brakes failed.
Thank you, taking the time to make this video helped me a lot.
OK, my passenger side drum started locking up in January. I needed front brakes too so I replaced pretty much everything… drums, shoes, pads, rotors, …even installed new calipers and anti-rattle rubber bushings. Almost immediately I noticed that my brakes felt like they were grabbing and releasing at low speeds, like something was warped.
I thought it was the front caliper so I removed everything a few weeks later to clean and rebuild. I did find that one of the stainless clips had popped out, so I replaced it with yet another brand new set (calipers and pads included them so I had extras). Confident that I had found the problem, I resumed driving and discovered that I still had the problem.
It simply must be my passenger side drum. It even developed a squeak, so now you can feel and hear the brake pulsing. Guess I’m going back in. I cleaned and greased and adjusted everything the first time so I have to assume something more serious got damaged when it first locked up on me. The cylinder looked fine.
It’s definitely not bearings, but do you think I need a new wheel hub? Maybe a shoe just didn’t fall into place where it belongs? It’s been a few months now so I hope my new shoes aren’t cracked like you describe.
That brake fluid level sensor threw me for a loop on the 2000 Pontiac Montana (same van). The 2000 model has a “message center” on the dash that reports low coolant, low fuel, etc but it apparently does not report low brake fluid even though there is a sensor. The sensor goes to the same light as your parking brake, which made me assume it was just an issue with my brake switch… especially since it would only come on when accelerating. It worsened and would soon only go off by slowing. Even then, I didn’t realize I was dealing with brake fluid sloshing around a level sensor until I actually saw a puddle and ruled out an oil leak. Only then did I check the repair manual to see that the schematic shows the BCM and a fluid level sensor connected to the same light on the gauge cluster. Doh!
Did you have to buy a special socket for the wheel cylinder mounting bolts
Johnson's Gee-Rage your Ford F150 Video Called "Ford F150 Sound System Upgrade" did you put a Speaker in the Middle of that dash? what size was it?
Very nice video. Thank you.
3:42 In my experience with drum brakes, there is an access hole in the rear where you can get a screwdriver in and back off the adjuster for the parking brake. Looks like you have a plug in the front of the drum where you can stick a flat screwdriver in and turn the adjuster in. The adjusters are typically RH thread on one side and LH thread on the other.
By chance where do you get your motor mounts?
+ brackets that go on the motor
To seat drum brakes, just drive in reverse like 10mph and tap the brake a few times. It activates the self adjustment mechanism
Where do you source your 4bt from
Got mine from Craigslist.
IN reality the slave cylinder bolts are inverted Torx E8. YOu can get the set fairly cheaply (like 7 different sizes for 14 bucks. The brake hardware is NOT, repeat NOT the same on both sides. The adjust screw (threaded bolt and receptacle is CW on one side, CCW on the other. Difference one. The forks at the ebrake end has a tine pointing down, so they are mirrored. Difference TWO. The clips that slide under the fork on the OTHER side is a mirror image 'twixt the 'twain. So there are four parts different.
love the Brake jobbers, Keep up the great work!
You need some gloves my friend, thanks for the video very helpful
Been following you for a long time from when you swapped the cummins why is afternoon garage blocking people? strange behavior. #MOLDSMOBILELIVESON
And if you remove and restore the backing plates as I did, removing the ebrake cable is AWFUL!! And for whatever reason, the adjustment was too tight so getting the ebrake lever onto the ebrake cable end was AWFUL!!! you may need to loosen up the ebrake adjuster assembly in the rear bottom center of the car - usually very rusted so care is advised. I also replaced the brake hub bearing assemblies but that's another video.
Some people shouldnt touch cars, hell look what someone did to the cooling sys on project trk i picked up, gives rest of us bad reps
Yeah that was some serious crap you found in that truck! I’m just glad I got this lady fixed up. She could have been injured or even killed if those brakes failed.
@@justhes on side note, sticker should be there this week, droped all requested ones, so keep eye out for manila with cross wrenches