THANK YOU!!! I'm hearing the squeaky and your vid makes it simple for me to do my own brakes this weekend. I'm mechanically inclined and now confident thanks to you. I can't wait to see what else you've got for me on this vehicle. I just purchased my new/used 2003 Venture. Again, Thank you.
Good call. My inner pad wore out first too… metal on metal. I took it to the shop IMMEDIATELY but, unfortunately, they refused due to “rust.” I ordered pads, drums, shoes, and rotors, but the bare plate left from the worn pad slipped loose, seizing the wheel before I could get it to my own workshop. Not sure how it happened since the rotor didn’t appear too thin. Heck, the plate was back where it belonged and the wheel was spinning freely again once the tow truck dropped it off. Meanwhile, the tow truck had to drag it to access/lift the front, severely damaging the piston. So now I finally had it at the workshop with brake parts only to discover that I now needed a new caliper. Ugh. That was just the start of a huge nightmare that wouldn’t have happened if the shop didn’t refuse but it never would’ve got that far if only the squealer were on the inside! Regarding the refusal for “rust,” I did all four and didn’t need a hammer at all since none of the rotors were rusted to the hub… so rust wouldn’t have been a problem for a shop with a proper lift. Meanwhile, I couldn’t even use the rocker to jack it up and had to buy many tools, some of which broke and others that were defective/missing parts. The biggest problem was the last one where I found a junkyard wheel with new wheel hub from the previous owner who over-tightened it, damaging a stud and multiple lug nuts. I also broke two impact tools and still couldn’t get them off. Ultimately I needed a torch, WD-40 to squelch, and jumping up and down on my breaker bar. I ain’t a lightweight either: This thing needed damn near 1,000 foot pounds of breakaway force! Spec is only 100ft lbs. I’ll be closely monitoring the wear and checking again within a few hundred miles. If it seems like the inside is wearing faster again I will switch them around like you did… unless you tell me otherwise. How did it work out for you?
I have 03 venture that overheats to almost red then goes back down then up and so on...from what ive read about the engine it routes the coolant to the back heater pump then back to engine and the stock water pump aperantly is too weak...is there a way to bypass the heater so it's cooling engine only? I live in Nevada so it's hot as hell so no use really for heater...
Did it wrong buddy it works but too much work there’s no need to open the bleeder event to undo both of the Guide pins on the caliper you only need to remove the bottom one and swing the caliper up
Not if you didn’t get air in the lines and have room in the reservoir. Still, it’s always good to exercise the bleeder and get rid of a bit of old fluid at the same time. This keeps the bleeder from getting stuck and makes pushing the piston back MUCH easier. In my case I had topped off the reservoir after getting a “Brake” light indicating it was low. I did not realize it was only low because my brakes were almost gone: My inner pad wore out first so I never hit the squealer, just like the dude in this video. Pushing the piston back without opening the bleeder just overflowed my reservoir, dumping brake fluid all over the transmission below. Since I got stranded months earlier when the rubber bushing rotted out of the transmission linkage end of my shift cable, I had to wonder if the same thing has happened before… rotting the rubber. Lesson learned. I’d definitely rather bleed the caliper and add fresh fluid than force the old fluid back up. Eliminates the need for a C-clamp or brake compression tool also.
You don't have to open the cap on the master cylinder. However, I wouldn't push back the piston as shown in the video, as prying on one side of the piston could damage it.
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I love these videos you post because I found out how to change my filters.
Thank you for making this video. You just saved me a lot of money.
THANK YOU!!! I'm hearing the squeaky and your vid makes it simple for me to do my own brakes this weekend. I'm mechanically inclined and now confident thanks to you. I can't wait to see what else you've got for me on this vehicle. I just purchased my new/used 2003 Venture. Again, Thank you.
Good call. My inner pad wore out first too… metal on metal.
I took it to the shop IMMEDIATELY but, unfortunately, they refused due to “rust.” I ordered pads, drums, shoes, and rotors, but the bare plate left from the worn pad slipped loose, seizing the wheel before I could get it to my own workshop. Not sure how it happened since the rotor didn’t appear too thin. Heck, the plate was back where it belonged and the wheel was spinning freely again once the tow truck dropped it off.
Meanwhile, the tow truck had to drag it to access/lift the front, severely damaging the piston. So now I finally had it at the workshop with brake parts only to discover that I now needed a new caliper. Ugh.
That was just the start of a huge nightmare that wouldn’t have happened if the shop didn’t refuse but it never would’ve got that far if only the squealer were on the inside!
Regarding the refusal for “rust,” I did all four and didn’t need a hammer at all since none of the rotors were rusted to the hub… so rust wouldn’t have been a problem for a shop with a proper lift. Meanwhile, I couldn’t even use the rocker to jack it up and had to buy many tools, some of which broke and others that were defective/missing parts. The biggest problem was the last one where I found a junkyard wheel with new wheel hub from the previous owner who over-tightened it, damaging a stud and multiple lug nuts. I also broke two impact tools and still couldn’t get them off. Ultimately I needed a torch, WD-40 to squelch, and jumping up and down on my breaker bar. I ain’t a lightweight either: This thing needed damn near 1,000 foot pounds of breakaway force! Spec is only 100ft lbs.
I’ll be closely monitoring the wear and checking again within a few hundred miles. If it seems like the inside is wearing faster again I will switch them around like you did… unless you tell me otherwise. How did it work out for you?
I have 03 venture that overheats to almost red then goes back down then up and so on...from what ive read about the engine it routes the coolant to the back heater pump then back to engine and the stock water pump aperantly is too weak...is there a way to bypass the heater so it's cooling engine only? I live in Nevada so it's hot as hell so no use really for heater...
mine also does that .real bad if i use the ac
good video Daniel, helpful, my have have venture, and the brakes wont charge, hi bleeding and cheke up the lines, do you have idea why wont charge?
Did it wrong buddy it works but too much work there’s no need to open the bleeder event to undo both of the Guide pins on the caliper you only need to remove the bottom one and swing the caliper up
I just installed new TRQ-brand calipers on mine and the stainless hardware catches when you do that.
I remember that car last year chevolet
do you have to let the brake fluid bleed
Not if you didn’t get air in the lines and have room in the reservoir. Still, it’s always good to exercise the bleeder and get rid of a bit of old fluid at the same time. This keeps the bleeder from getting stuck and makes pushing the piston back MUCH easier.
In my case I had topped off the reservoir after getting a “Brake” light indicating it was low. I did not realize it was only low because my brakes were almost gone: My inner pad wore out first so I never hit the squealer, just like the dude in this video. Pushing the piston back without opening the bleeder just overflowed my reservoir, dumping brake fluid all over the transmission below. Since I got stranded months earlier when the rubber bushing rotted out of the transmission linkage end of my shift cable, I had to wonder if the same thing has happened before… rotting the rubber.
Lesson learned. I’d definitely rather bleed the caliper and add fresh fluid than force the old fluid back up. Eliminates the need for a C-clamp or brake compression tool also.
I just replaced the rotors and breaks on a Chevy venture and now it is squealing and the rotors get hot. Do you know why?
the ball baerig
good advice...... surprised Daniel didn't do that...... better brake pads nowadays come with new mounting brackets too.
Thanks
What the hell are you doing with that brake bleeder. Take the cap off of the master cylinder and use a c-clamp to push the caliper in.
You don't have to open the cap on the master cylinder. However, I wouldn't push back the piston as shown in the video, as prying on one side of the piston could damage it.
doing it ...all....wrong
This is the hardest way to do it buddy 🤔🤦🏼♂️
Not good... C clamp lot better
POOR VIDEO!!!!